Re: Motorized router lifter
Dexter That's a neat idea. We have talked aoubt THIS idea before. The funny thing here is, I sorta like the concept, but Dis-like the CNC stuff. I guess it just babby steps, Step by step we try to gain more control of our Legacy's. ;-) C.A.G. On Monday, July 9, 2012 4:53:36 PM UTC-4, Dexter Bland wrote: http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/powerlift.html?gclid=CKDzybqjjbECFQZ5hwodl1wdig#routersize_anchor I stumbled across this goodie today. Unfortunately the larger 3.5hp routers will not fit in this unit (4.2” diameter). I do see it as a great possibility in upgrading a standard carriage to a z-axis upgrade that has a motorized control with a depth stop and digital scale. If this could hold a larger router, I could replace my base plate of my router carriage by just drilling/tapping 4 holes to attach the slides. So close, and yet so far to a z-axis upgrade…. Dexter -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/legacy-ornamental-mills/-/Eooo6v_okKcJ. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
Re: Motorized router lifter
Curt, This really does not come to the level of CNC. I , like you, don't really want to go to the level of computer programming to create something. Currently, my biggest problem that I have with my machine is the slop in the router plunge legs. A rig like what I found would be perfect for the machine we both have (1000ex) IF it wasn't too wide to fit in the carriage space and if would hold the larger router. Just from looking at this, the base plate on the router lifter could be cut down, drilled/tapped for the 4 holes that bolt the plate to the slides on the carriage and just replace the current aluminum base plate. The lift controls could be mounted with the x axis motor controls where you could stop a the turing and raise the router to keep from burning the wood at the end of a cut such as fluting or some twist/rope cutting project. The one thing that probably would not be made better is increasing plunge depth. I am now unsure about using a smaller router. Not so much for the loss of power as much as ability of the bearings to handle the abuse. I put a 2.5 bit in my 1.75hp PC router mounted in my work bench (my router table) and the bearings sound as though it didn't like it at all. To any one who cares to comment... I do have another question. Back in 07 there was alot of discussion about upgrading the router carriage slides to v-groove wheels/track to reduce friction. If one did upgrade this feature, would it not reduce the wear on the split nut due to the big reduction in resistance? For those newer to this forum like myself, I highly recomend reading thru the previous years comments/hints/info. It is a treasure trove of information/ideas. My many thanks to all who have contrubuted. Dexter On Jul 13, 4:00 am, Curtis curtgeo...@wowway.com wrote: Dexter That's a neat idea. We have talked aoubt THIS idea before. The funny thing here is, I sorta like the concept, but Dis-like the CNC stuff. I guess it just babby steps, Step by step we try to gain more control of our Legacy's. ;-) C.A.G. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
Re: Motorized router lifter
Hello, We are getting off topic but there are many things that need to be addressed here. The response should be broken down when you reply. I think it's time we look at the amount of slop we are talking about in your router. Can you measure the amount of slop? It's hard to say if what you are seeing is normal or a worn out router. I've never seen one worn out so this is a real learning opportunity for us. Before updating the bushings, one needs to consider the real problem in the first place. Using the new style of bushings, I will almost guarantee if you are destroying split nuts, the bushing are not filed to fit in the rails. With the people that own the older style such as yourself, they need to be adjusted as well. Dynaglide is a required lubricant when things are even a slight bit tight. If your bushing are completely worn out and there is slop everywhere and there is no longer a need for dynaglide, then it's time to look into adjusting the bushings or replacing them. I would not update the bushing on the early machines. However, the newer style bushing would benefit from a modification. I hinted to the modification earlier last year. Now, that is not to say the V bearing are not good. I did not like the execution of the upgrade but the bearing of choice will make one heck of a smooth machine. The bearing are a proven method used on industrial equipment and lately cnc machines so that is not the concern. You might have a point about the bearings in a smaller router. Considering the bases are smaller on these routers, I doubt many of them are designed to work with bits as large as 2.5. Changing the bearings (there better be two in there) to better grade bearings is an easy thing to do. My real question is how often are you using a bit that is 2.5 or larger? Reading the old messages and refining and finishing the answers and challenging the answers is really the only growth potential for this group. We have talked about some really odd things. Some are dreams, others just need more time to hone, and others are worth their weight in gold. In the past the original owner and myself have highlighted some of the topics. Those can be seen on the ornamentalmills site. However, it's far from complete. -Tim - Original Message - From: Dexter Bland dexterbl...@gmail.com To: Legacy Ornamental Mills legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, July 13, 2012 5:59 AM Subject: Re: Motorized router lifter Curt, This really does not come to the level of CNC. I , like you, don't really want to go to the level of computer programming to create something. Currently, my biggest problem that I have with my machine is the slop in the router plunge legs. A rig like what I found would be perfect for the machine we both have (1000ex) IF it wasn't too wide to fit in the carriage space and if would hold the larger router. Just from looking at this, the base plate on the router lifter could be cut down, drilled/tapped for the 4 holes that bolt the plate to the slides on the carriage and just replace the current aluminum base plate. The lift controls could be mounted with the x axis motor controls where you could stop a the turing and raise the router to keep from burning the wood at the end of a cut such as fluting or some twist/rope cutting project. The one thing that probably would not be made better is increasing plunge depth. I am now unsure about using a smaller router. Not so much for the loss of power as much as ability of the bearings to handle the abuse. I put a 2.5 bit in my 1.75hp PC router mounted in my work bench (my router table) and the bearings sound as though it didn't like it at all. To any one who cares to comment... I do have another question. Back in 07 there was alot of discussion about upgrading the router carriage slides to v-groove wheels/track to reduce friction. If one did upgrade this feature, would it not reduce the wear on the split nut due to the big reduction in resistance? For those newer to this forum like myself, I highly recomend reading thru the previous years comments/hints/info. It is a treasure trove of information/ideas. My many thanks to all who have contrubuted. Dexter On Jul 13, 4:00 am, Curtis curtgeo...@wowway.com wrote: Dexter That's a neat idea. We have talked aoubt THIS idea before. The funny thing here is, I sorta like the concept, but Dis-like the CNC stuff. I guess it just babby steps, Step by step we try to gain more control of our Legacy's. ;-) C.A.G. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy
Re: Motorized router lifter
The router movement side to side is greatest when plunging. You can get the carriage to move on the side opposite of the split nut, but very little. If I was to create a lock on that side, that would eliminate that smaller problem. The biggest issue is trying to plunge the router without it wiggling on the way down. It moves side to side about 1/16 of an inch. Once the lock is engaged, it can move only slightly. My comment about the split nut was in response to comments others have made in past postings about wearing out the split nut. I don’t really have a lot of friction issues like I have seen Curt comment on with his mill. I have recently added a x-drive motor and am concerned about wearing out my split nut which is a part you can’t get down at the hardware store. The smaller routers are not designed for the larger cutters. One indication is the lack of ability to change the speed on the router. I currently don’t turn or make large items, but have future ambitions of larger stuff as my abilities improve and dream up other things to make. Unless other 3.5” diameter routers are built more robust than the 1.75hp PC that I have, I have reservations about downgrading to a smaller router. Dexter -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
Re: Motorized router lifter
There's a whole new problem, large bits require slower speeds. If your router does not have speed control, it's not safe to use large bits. Both the Bosch 1617EVS and Dewalt 618 have variable speed and claim to be 2.25 hp. Two things come to mind on your router. There should be no rocking of the router with it in the locked position. The lock might be loose. The lock can be adjusted. Hold the handle and remove the philips screw on the handle. Keep your hand on the lever and with a 1/8 allen wrench turn counter-clockwise about a 1/2 turn. Check and see if this improves the lock and repeat till satisfied. There are two bushing that could wear out. They can be replaced. http://www.ereplacementparts.com/porter-cable-7539-type-plunge-router-parts-c-129_1672_12319.html see part number 114 (Not a recommendation to purchase from this source, only for reference). I'm assuming there is no wear on the columns. The good news about the split nut is it can improved by removing small portions of material from the bottom as needed. The screw will wear a deeper hole into the threaded portion of the split nut. So far I've been able to save several split nuts using this method. The key is prevention. If you have note deburred your leadscrew with a file and sandpaper and some oil, now is a good time to do so. It's much easier to do with a motor :-) When the day comes that Legacy no longer sells the split nuts, I have the tooling to create them. -Tim - Original Message - From: Dexter Bland dexterbl...@gmail.com To: Legacy Ornamental Mills legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, July 13, 2012 1:29 PM Subject: Re: Motorized router lifter The router movement side to side is greatest when plunging. You can get the carriage to move on the side opposite of the split nut, but very little. If I was to create a lock on that side, that would eliminate that smaller problem. The biggest issue is trying to plunge the router without it wiggling on the way down. It moves side to side about 1/16 of an inch. Once the lock is engaged, it can move only slightly. My comment about the split nut was in response to comments others have made in past postings about wearing out the split nut. I don’t really have a lot of friction issues like I have seen Curt comment on with his mill. I have recently added a x-drive motor and am concerned about wearing out my split nut which is a part you can’t get down at the hardware store. The smaller routers are not designed for the larger cutters. One indication is the lack of ability to change the speed on the router. I currently don’t turn or make large items, but have future ambitions of larger stuff as my abilities improve and dream up other things to make. Unless other 3.5” diameter routers are built more robust than the 1.75hp PC that I have, I have reservations about downgrading to a smaller router. Dexter -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
Re: Motorized router lifter
I do have to admit that idea sounds nice. My best advice, right now is keep looking, I am hoping that Someone out there will be coming up with a new version of a Z axis that will fit our machines. Having the ability to control the router and carriage, is not something you shear allow. WAIT and see. something will come ;-) Have a great day. C.A.G. - Original Message - From: Dexter Bland dexterbl...@gmail.com To: Legacy Ornamental Mills legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, July 13, 2012 4:29 PM Subject: Re: Motorized router lifter The router movement side to side is greatest when plunging. You can get the carriage to move on the side opposite of the split nut, but very little. If I was to create a lock on that side, that would eliminate that smaller problem. The biggest issue is trying to plunge the router without it wiggling on the way down. It moves side to side about 1/16 of an inch. Once the lock is engaged, it can move only slightly. My comment about the split nut was in response to comments others have made in past postings about wearing out the split nut. I don’t really have a lot of friction issues like I have seen Curt comment on with his mill. I have recently added a x-drive motor and am concerned about wearing out my split nut which is a part you can’t get down at the hardware store. The smaller routers are not designed for the larger cutters. One indication is the lack of ability to change the speed on the router. I currently don’t turn or make large items, but have future ambitions of larger stuff as my abilities improve and dream up other things to make. Unless other 3.5” diameter routers are built more robust than the 1.75hp PC that I have, I have reservations about downgrading to a smaller router. Dexter -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
