Re: Xenix. Sun Rem 2 meg card.

2006-01-08 Thread Dr. Helmut Post
Hi Phil,
I know that the Simms are very hard to pull out of their sockets- the really
stick into their sockets. I used a plastic pull-out tool to prevent any
damage. A pull-out tool should be available in a local electronics store.
A pull out tools was necessary for pulling SIMM's in many Macintosh or Amiga
accelerators.

Helmut


on 08.01.2006 1:29 Uhr, Philip Lord at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Thanks for all the info...I'll try cleaning the contacts and see if
 that helps. Any idea how tho remove the sims from the card...I cant
 seem to pop then out?
 
 Phil
 
 
 On Jan 8, 2006, at 12:33 AM, Dr. Helmut Post wrote:
 


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Re: Lisa doesn't power on - power lights up for 1sec, speaker clicks, then off.

2005-11-29 Thread Dr. Helmut Post
Hi Ray,


 So my questions are:
 
 1. Is there a known symptom/fix for the power button lighting up for
 half a second this way?  Is it an I/O board, motherboard, or CPU board
 issue?  Anyone else had a CPU board that got slightly warped and wouldn't
 fit?  Any way to relax them enough to fit without damaging them?

Have you checked the PSU?

Have you cleaned all golden contacts on the PCB's?

 
 2. Is there a way to use a Lisa 2/10 I/O board and rewrire it directly
 to the floppy drive without going through the motherboard, or rewrire the
 existing connector from to the floppy.  (I believe the end that goes into
 the LisaLite card has more pins than the cable that goes from the LisaLite
 to the floppy, so perhaps Apple just left some unused pins, and hopefully
 all the ones that go to the floppy are there.)


I have successfully used a Lisa XL I/O board in my Lisa 2/5.
Please note that you must use the LisaLite adapter even with the XL I/O
board in a Lisa 2/5.
Please use the 2/10 Floppy controller ROM in the XL I/O board.

 
 3. Would placing such a board inside a Lisa 2 with a LisaLite floppy card
 damage either the I/O board itself, the motherboard, or the LisaLite card?
 

There won't be any damage...as I described above.

 4. What's involved in repairing an I/O board with a battery leak?  I can
 certainly rewire/resolder the missing traces - at least the ones that are
 still
 visible. (I know one of the two dead I/O boards that I tested has a broken
 VIA chip since the plastic on the chip shows it melted. :-) so I can
 possibly use parts from this one to repair the other.) Any tips, tricks, or
 things to watch out for?

 
That can take a long time- and it depends how much corrosion has destroyed
your IO board.  I have built one working original 2/5 IO board from 2 non
operational boards.
A PCB electrical circuit plan would be fine to find the problems...


Greetings,

Helmut


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Re: Lisa Keyboard Repair - Here comes how to...

2005-11-06 Thread Dr. Helmut Post
on 06.11.2005 13:56 Uhr, Philip Lord at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I have a spare keyboard I'd like to get going. There are maybe 10
 dead keys, and a few really sticky ones. what causes them to stick?
 
 P
 
 
 On Nov 6, 2005, at 7:36 PM, macmoni wrote:
 

Hi Phil,

the Lisa keyboard is totally different from other Mac keyboards- the Mac
uses switches (Alps inc.) which can produce corrosion over the years, but
not the Lisa keyboard:
The Lisa uses a 3mm-4 mm thick foam material ( as found in many candy
packages/boxes or tool boxes etc...)
This foam material is glued to a small round plastic disc on one side to
snap inside the key itself. On the other side there is a special metallic
looking foil (like christmas paper)- this foil is not electrical conductive!
Don't use any aluminium foil- this could ruin your Lisa keyboard.
Recycle your foil pieces and reuse them again.
As a replacement for the glue don't use fluid glue- this may ruin your
keyboard- just use a sticky glue ( Pattex etc...)
The foam material deteriorates over the years and forms a kind of sticky
mess... this produces the sticky effects on several of your keys.
The keyboard uses a capacitive concept- a switch is built from an
aluminium pad on the PCB and the non-conductive metallic looking foil.
If you press the key, the foil presses against the pad (under the pressure
of the foam material) and forms a capacitor- this capacity change is
translated into an electrical impuls. if you use fluids or pressured air,
you can easily ruin your keyboard. You have to open it very carefully and
reconstruct all key switches with new foam material. Don't forget to clean
the pads on the PCB from sticky glue and foam smudge.
The whole work took me a full afternoon- but if you completed your task you
have a brand new fully operational keyboard.

Measurements with an Ohm meter is not possible- you can only measure a
capacity change  with a capacity measurement tool- but that is not
necessary.

I have successfully refurbished 3 keyboards- they are fully operational now,
and will be for the next decade...
there was no need to solder anything... only cutting foam disks- you can use
Guido Deiana- he has successfully completed the same task as I did.

Helmut


P.S.: Don't use any cleaning fluid!
This ruins all!


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Re: error 85

2005-11-03 Thread Dr. Helmut Post
Hello Phil,

error 85 means: you have reached the hard disk time-out limit... the hard
disk hasn't answered within a given time- probably the system track, boot
secor is bad . You need a fresh low level format.- or a new drive if the
number of bad blocks exceeds 30 counts.



 I have just finished telling the list that I got my SUN REM drive
 working again, and that I thought the cause was overheating
 (Installed a fan). However I still get constant error 85 messages.

 If I reinstall 7/7 everything seems fine, for a short while, then
 error 85 starts happening again.


Probably a thermal error with one of the chips ... probably the SMS OMTI
20813B (MFM controller).
Do you have a freezing spray to cool down the chips to locate the error on
the controller?
I have the same problems- no way to get these chips today- only if you rip
the chips from an Amiga 1000 sidecar (PC-XT hardware expansion box) or form
an old Atari ST MFM hard disk controller.

 The SUN REM drive uses a Kalok KL320 (20mb) MFM drive. I guess these
 are getting very old now. Maybe I need to look for another 20mb MFM
 drive to replace the Kalok with. Will any MFM 20mb drive work? For
 example Kyocera KC020, Miniscribe m8425 or Western General WD362.

Yes, you can use all these disks- provided that your controller is ok.
I'm testing these MFM hard disks on my old 80486 IBM AT with an Adaptec ACB
2310 MFM controller card.
But: You have to know how to perform a low level format on the SUN
controller first!

 Or even better, does an adaptor exist for MFM to IDE? I couldn't find
 one by doing an internet search.

No, there is no such adapter- as far as I know.
Choose the IDEFile instead- it's offering full future Widget compatibility
as is fully Profile compatible (5 MB and 10MB).


 However, for the life of the machine, I still believe the IDEfile is
 the best option for the future. I should start thinking seriously
 about this option, otherwise 7/7 will be lost to my machine for ever.


Yes, I'll  recommend you this controller- it's really great!


Helmut

 Thanks

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Re: error 85

2005-11-03 Thread Dr. Helmut Post
These may be parity errors- produced by a faulty SUN 20 hard disk
Your thermal problem??

Helmut
- Original Message - 
From: Philip Lord [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: LisaList lisalist@mail.maclaunch.com
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 1:48 PM
Subject: Re: error 85


 ...one more quick observation. On the occasional time that the Lisa  
 boots into 7/7, often the computer has 'Technical difficulties  
 displaying x Paper.
 It doesn't matter what what application, they all seem to have this  
 problem 30% of the time.
 
 Cheers
 
 P
 
 
 
 
 On Nov 3, 2005, at 9:28 PM, Philip Lord wrote:
 
  e...ok!
 
  it sounds like performing a low level format needs some special  
  equipment that I'm not likely to have. If it can't be done on a Mac  
  (now or old) or a Lisa, then I'm kinda screwed.
 
  One other thing I have noticed is an error 10100 next to what I  
  guess is the lisa equivalent of 'Sad-Mac'. Is this related to the  
  drive? I can not find any reference to this code.
 
  So, I will try to pursue the IDEfile direction. I have no knowledge  
  of electronics, however I feel confident with the soldering  
  challenge at least.
  Helmut, it sounds like you have built one before. I may have some  
  questions for you in the near future ;-)
 
  I won't give up on the Sun REMarketing drive yet. Maybe I'll email  
  SUN REM direct.
  If I don't have the tools, maybe they can still reformat my drive  
  for me.
 
  Thanks for your reply
 
  P
 
 
  On Nov 3, 2005, at 5:58 PM, Dr. Helmut Post wrote:
 
 
  Hello Phil,
 
  error 85 means: you have reached the hard disk time-out limit...  
  the hard
  disk hasn't answered within a given time- probably the system  
  track, boot
  secor is bad . You need a fresh low level format.- or a new drive  
  if the
  number of bad blocks exceeds 30 counts.
 
 
 
 
 
  I have just finished telling the list that I got my SUN REM drive
  working again, and that I thought the cause was overheating
  (Installed a fan). However I still get constant error 85 messages.
 
  If I reinstall 7/7 everything seems fine, for a short while, then
  error 85 starts happening again.
 
 
 
 
  Probably a thermal error with one of the chips ... probably the  
  SMS OMTI
  20813B (MFM controller).
  Do you have a freezing spray to cool down the chips to locate the  
  error on
  the controller?
  I have the same problems- no way to get these chips today- only if  
  you rip
  the chips from an Amiga 1000 sidecar (PC-XT hardware expansion  
  box) or form
  an old Atari ST MFM hard disk controller.
 
 
 
  The SUN REM drive uses a Kalok KL320 (20mb) MFM drive. I guess these
  are getting very old now. Maybe I need to look for another 20mb MFM
  drive to replace the Kalok with. Will any MFM 20mb drive work? For
  example Kyocera KC020, Miniscribe m8425 or Western General WD362.
 
 
 
  Yes, you can use all these disks- provided that your controller is  
  ok.
  I'm testing these MFM hard disks on my old 80486 IBM AT with an  
  Adaptec ACB
  2310 MFM controller card.
  But: You have to know how to perform a low level format on the SUN
  controller first!
 
 
 
  Or even better, does an adaptor exist for MFM to IDE? I couldn't  
  find
  one by doing an internet search.
 
 
 
  No, there is no such adapter- as far as I know.
  Choose the IDEFile instead- it's offering full future Widget  
  compatibility
  as is fully Profile compatible (5 MB and 10MB).
 
 
 
 
  However, for the life of the machine, I still believe the IDEfile is
  the best option for the future. I should start thinking seriously
  about this option, otherwise 7/7 will be lost to my machine for  
  ever.
 
 
 
 
  Yes, I'll  recommend you this controller- it's really great!
 
 
  Helmut
 
 
 
  Thanks
 
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Re: Taking apart Lisa - cleaning

2005-11-03 Thread Dr. Helmut Post
Hi Phil,

you don't have to replace all caps- only the electrolytic caps and the
transparent , sometimes white or yellowish power surge protector
(interference suppression) caps - I had several explosions and ugly smell
with these power surge protector caps.
If the Lisa had been stored in a humid place over the years, those plastic
material is deteriorating- small cracks will appear- the humidity can
penetrate into the cap- if you start your Lisa after this time, the humidity
inside the cap produces a shortcut - and the cap explodes and burns 
this fire is  not dangerous- the PSU is shutting down the power, but the
Lisa has a bad smell for a long time- it smells as if you would try to burn
a hole newspaper magazine inside your Lisa- very ugly!
I was very frightened the first time I encountered this accident.
I had the same experiences with the PSU's of my Profile hard disks.
More than 50% of my electrolytic caps had values at least 40-50% lower than
indicated (dried out caps)
Others had doubled their capacity- reason: humidity as well.
Dried out caps can easily damage the Multilayer PCB!! (reason: aggressive
electrolytic fluid)- the removal is as much necessary as the removal of the
NiCAD batteries in the Lisa 2/5 I/O board!
The capacity of  the interference suppression caps had been doubled or even
tripled! over the years!!
Sometimes I am very surprised that the circuits are still working .


You can buy all these caps at Digi Key.
Here is a link for the power surge (interference suppression caps):
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T053/1080-1081.pdf
I used and recommend the MKP 338 X1 series (440 Volts AC), but you can even
use the MKP 338 X2 series- they have the same ratings as the original caps
with values from1 nF to 3.3uF.
You can easily find all other electrolytic caps at Digi Key.
I'm only using 105 degrees Celsius caps- don't use the 85 degrees Celsius
caps- they dry out to frequently.


Helmut



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Re: Taking apart Lisa - cleaning

2005-11-03 Thread Dr. Helmut Post
Phil,
I forgot to mention the following book:
Macintosh Repair  Upgrade Secrets by Larry Pina

Hayden books ISBN 0-672-48452-8

former price (in 1991): $32.95

There is a big Lisa section inside this book- the removal procedure of
electrolytic caps is very good illustrated with many pictures.


Helmut



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Re: Taking apart Lisa - cleaning

2005-11-03 Thread Dr. Helmut Post
Hi Phil,

do you have a circuit plan of the PSU?
The 1.2 amp PSU circuit plan is available on the Internet- but the stronger
1.8 amp PSU plan is only available from John Woodall or James MacPhail- he
has produced these plans.
You should find the plans on Ebay or : www.vintagemicros.com (John's
homepage)

I can tell you which caps have to be (or should be) removed.
It's easy for the 1.2 amp PSU- just tell me if you have the plan.

Helmut

- Original Message - 
From: Philip Lord [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: LisaList lisalist@mail.maclaunch.com
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 4:09 PM
Subject: Re: Taking apart Lisa - cleaning


 Much thanks,
 I'll see if I can't track this book down.

 I just opened up an old broken 1.2amp supply to have a good look
 inside. Not really sure what is what however.

 If I can't find the book, would anyone know where the caps that need
 to be replaced are located? (C-?)

 P



 On Nov 3, 2005, at 11:55 PM, Dr. Helmut Post wrote:

  Phil,
  I forgot to mention the following book:
  Macintosh Repair  Upgrade Secrets by Larry Pina
 
  Hayden books ISBN 0-672-48452-8
 
  former price (in 1991): $32.95
 
  There is a big Lisa section inside this book- the removal procedure of
  electrolytic caps is very good illustrated with many pictures.
 
 
  Helmut
 
 
 
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Re: Taking apart Lisa - cleaning

2005-11-02 Thread Dr. Helmut Post
Hi,
I have replaced all old electrolytic caps and the power surge caps in my
Lisa- no more problems- and the Voltages are more stable than ever before.
I have even exchanged all electrolytic caps in the video circuit- the
picture is now much better- the slight jitter is gone.
I'd recommend everyone to exchange all electrolytic caps inside the PSU and
the Video circuit- it makes a big difference and protects the Lisa for the
future.


- Original Message - 
From: Chris Riedl [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: LisaList lisalist@mail.maclaunch.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 9:37 AM
Subject: Re: Taking apart Lisa - cleaning


 Well, that was certainly an interesting escapade.  Apparently a power
 supply cap blew up sometime in the past, and there was crusted electrolyte
 all over the one side.  Some cleaning of the chassis and case later, I
have
 got the Lisa booting up.  However, it just appears as if the Widget is not
 present to the system, as it only shows the floppy for startup.  The
Widget
 spins up and sounds normal, but I guess it isn't being seen by the
hardware.
 Any suggestions or things to try to pinpoint this further?

I'd recommend to turn the voice coil actuator manually during the spin-up,
self test procedure of the Widget.
Sometimes it helps

Helmut



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Re: 7/7 install failed on SUN REM drive

2005-10-24 Thread Dr. Helmut Post
Hello Joe,

I think you can obtain a copy from James Mac Phail or John Woodall 
http://sigmasevensystems.com/index.html

http://vintagemicros.com/

Helmut

- Original Message - 


From: Joe Vogel [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: LisaList lisalist@mail.maclaunch.com
Sent: Monday, October 24, 2005 2:37 PM
Subject: Re: 7/7 install failed on SUN REM drive


 Hello.
 Iam still having the same problem with my profiles.
 
 Does anyone know where I may get a copy of MMII+ ?
 
 thanks.
 
 
  
   Any ideas what the problem could be? As I
  mentioned when formatted
   for MWII+ the drive seems works flawlessly.
  
  
   Cheers
  
   Phil
  
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Re: Widget can't keep up !

2005-09-07 Thread Dr. Helmut Post
Hi Mike!

Error 85 usually means that the Widget doesn't come to a ready state
within a given timeout value.
Probably the boot block and/or the spare block can't be read.
That means: The Widget needs a Low Level Format.

The Floppy doesn't need any additional power cable- the flat cable includes
the necessary power leads.

I hope this helps you a little bit further.


- Original Message - 
From: mike sherry [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: LisaList lisalist@mail.maclaunch.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2005 11:23 AM
Subject: Widget can't keep up !


Hello there,

 I have a Macintosh XL ( I think !) that I am trying to restore, the
internal 10MB Widget drive comes up with Error 85 during power up.
Searching around a bit a found the error codes list in the Sun Rem
document, this claims that error 85 mean the 'drive cannot keep up'.
No further details are given and no suggestion for a fix.

 Does this mean it is spinning too slowly ?

 Also on an unrelated note, I notice that the floppy drive has a data
connection going into it, but no power lead.  Is this ok, is the data
lead actually data and power combined or do you think I am missing a
bit ?

 Many thanks for any advice you can offer

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Re: I/O board compatibility?

2005-08-25 Thread Dr. Helmut Post

Hi,
I have a Lisa 2/5 and a 2/10 (XL).
I have successfully installed an XL I/O board in my Lisa 2/5 ( with the old
battery backed-up I/O board). there are no big differences between the I/O
boards- however, I have used a different 800KB  ROM for the XL I/O board.
The XL I/O card fits in a 2/5, but the old I/O card won't work in a Lisa
2/10 (XL).
The Lisa 2/10 runs Lisa OS and MacWorks, the Mac XL doesn't, because there
is a screen kit installed ( to change the rectangular pixels into square
pixels, as used on the Macintosh). The screen kit includes a new Video state
Prom which makes it impossible to run Lisa OS (invalid Lisa serial number
for Lisa OS) - you have to uninstall the screen kit, the Video state Prom
and the Monitor EPROM's as well.
Then you have changed your XL into a downgraded Lisa 2/10.

The card cage of the Lisa 2/5 doesn't fit into a Lisa 2/10 (or XL) because
the form factor is slightly different- slightly modified main connectors for
the widget.

I hope these informations are useful...

BTW: You can install a battery backup in a XL I/O board- the modifications
are very easy to handle. But I wouldn't recommend it, because the batteries
will do the same bad corrosion as found in many 2/5 I/O board.


Helmut


on 25.08.2005 17:51 Uhr, Philip Lord at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I read in the Sun Remarketing 'do it yourself guide' that Lisa I/O
 cards will not work in a XL. My question is, what is it about an XL
 that makes it an XL, and what is it about a Lisa that makes it a
 lisa? is it the Motherboard?
 
 For example: if I had a lisa 2 upgraded to a XL (new roms for 800k
 floppy, and widget drive) that has a dead original lisa 2 motherboard
 (parallel port version), and I'm replacing the dead motherboard and
 card cage with a motherboard and card cage from an XL (no Parallel
 port version), will the original lisa I/O card still work or do I
 have to change that too?
 
 Thanks in advance.
 
 Phil
 
 


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Re: Dead I/O Board?

2005-06-09 Thread Dr. Helmut Post
Hi Clinton,

Error 52 means: Problems with a defective COPS chip on the I/O board.
After the total cleaning of all I/O board connectors you should check your
COPS chip.

I hope these informations help you a little bit further.

Helmut Post

on 09.06.2005 1:25 Uhr, Clinton Yelvington at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hey guys,
 
 I seemed to have fixed my 2/10's jittery video problem, but now I
 have a new issue: When I hooked the KB and mouse back up, and plugged
 it in, it immediately powered up (without me hitting the switch) and
 displayed an I/O board error 52. I read that re-seating the I/O board
 could help but I tried that and no luck. when I hit the interrupt
 switch the Keyboard and Mouse aren't recognized.
 
 Please help if you can,
 
 Clinton Yelvington


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Re: Clock battery and floppy lubrication

2005-05-11 Thread Dr. Helmut Post
Hi,
I think you have a problem with your COPS412 chip:
The COPS421 handles the RTC (Real Time Clock) which has a span of 15
years.  Consequently this was set for 1980 to 1995, which means that it'll
be
really interesting to set dates such as 1998.  Talk about Y2K premonition!
I
wonder what Apple was thinking...
But it's really interesting, that the clock is working until the year 2005
with OS 7.1.1, and even until 2040 if you are running Mac OS 7.5.5 with
MacWorks II+
( still available through John Woodall on Ebay (vintagemicros.com)).
I had the same problem as you do. As I exchanged my COPS 421, the problem
was  gone.

Helmut Post

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: LisaList lisalist@mail.maclaunch.com
Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 12:11 AM
Subject: Re: Clock battery and floppy lubrication


 The clock has never worked. I know about the time issue. Not even setting
 it to times the Lisa clock can recognize worked, even after I got it. I
get
 an error message that the time is not set (or something similar) every
time
 I turn the computer on. I assume the batteries were dead or the clock
 doesn't work.


  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  When I purchased my Lisa II from Sun many years ago, it has a dead
clock
  battery, or a broken clock. All I know is that the clock has never
worked.
  
  
  And it never will.  These don't have a Y2K problem, they have a 1995
  problem.  So don't worry about the date.  Do, however, worry about the
  batteries leaking.  If you really want to replace them they are a 4 pack
  of NiCAD's - don't use anything else or you'll damage your I/O board.
  Instead of replacing them, I would highly recommend just removing them.
  You can either cut them off at the tabs (careful not to damage the
  board) or desolder them. (- also be careful).
 
  The Lisa will run fine with no batteries at all and you remove the risk
  of a leak damaging your I./O and motherboard.
 
 
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