Re: [MBZ] W108 4.5: The nightmare begins

[David Bruckmann]

San Francisco, and more than $500...   :)


>--
>
>Message: 16
>Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 20:36:50 -0500
>From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: [MBZ] W108 4.5: The nightmare begins
>
>how much and were located?
>
>Wonko the Sane wrote:
>> The next post will be from Kaleb.
>> 
>> On 9/30/07, Tom Hargrave <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>> Don't throw up yet - it seems you have purchased a typical Mercedes
>>> project
>>> car. You really only have 2 choices from here, sell it or find a running
>>> donor car.
>
>
>-- 
>Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>  94 E420, 94 E320, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
>  91 300D, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
>  81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
>http://www.okiebenz.com
>
>


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Re: [MBZ] does it make me really shallow they i want this?

[Kevin Kraly]

My sister's Magnum equipped with the 3.5L v6 isn't slow either, a great car 
for whatever hauling one intends to do.  The lifetime warranty isn't 
availavle on all vehicles including the Sprinter and Ram Cummins diesel 
pickups, go figure.  I was told that this is basically since the afore 
mentioned vehicles sell pretty well on their own.  It will be great for the 
FEW of us who actually keep a car nearly forever, but isn't a big thing for 
those of us who trade every 3-5 years.

Kevin in Portland, OR
1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula 


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[MBZ] does it make me really shallow they i want this?

[Gary Hurst]

if chrysler is actually going to warrant the powertrain forever, i'd get
this and just drive it forever


http://www.drivesrt.com/en/dodge_magnum/index.html
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[MBZ] Shell commercial

[RELNGSON]

http://dailymotion.alice.it/video/x1ho6r_shell-ferrari-the-circuit



**
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Re: [MBZ] Hydrogen cars

[Jim Cathey]

> Remember the Hindenburg!

As long as you don't store the H2 in thermite-coated fabric
tanks you should be fine.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] [Banned] OkieQ reminder

[Wonko the Sane]

Not strange. It lets anyone who says he/she is coming "not show up" or bow
out gracefully at the last moment. It also lets anyone who has not given an
RSVP feel free to come at the last minute.

Remember a couple of years ago when some folks said they WERE going to come
and then didn't show up? If I remember correctly, we weren't too many
degrees from sending out a search & rescue mission looking for them, and it
turned out to be a practical joke on their part.

Perhaps it is because I tend to be a very private and "low profile" person,
but I don't feel the need to post an RSVP list.

That being said, any of you who have given an RSVP are welcome to post an "I
will be there" message to the board. But that is your call. I won't be doing
it.

On 9/30/07, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> that is certainly strange.
>
> Wonko the Sane wrote:
> > That is classified.  But I think I already sent you that off-list.
> >
> > On 9/30/07, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >> When having an event such as this, its always nice to have a list of
> who
> >> all is attending.
> >>
> >> Wonko the Sane wrote:
> >>> 13 days and counting.
> >>>
> >>> We have enough RSVPs to constitute a quorum but "I will be there" is
> >> always
> >>> appreciated in doing the food count.
> >>>
> >>> Don
> >>>
> >>>
> >> --
> >> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> >>   94 E420, 94 E320, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
> >>   91 300D, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
> >>   81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >>
> >> ___
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> >> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >>
> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>   94 E420, 94 E320, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
>   91 300D, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
>   81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>



-- 
LT Don
http://don.homelinux.net/~don/
Proudly marching to the beat of a different kettle of fish.

Make a small loan, Make a big difference - Kiva.org
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Re: [MBZ] [Banned] OkieQ reminder

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

that is certainly strange.

Wonko the Sane wrote:
> That is classified.  But I think I already sent you that off-list.
> 
> On 9/30/07, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> When having an event such as this, its always nice to have a list of who
>> all is attending.
>>
>> Wonko the Sane wrote:
>>> 13 days and counting.
>>>
>>> We have enough RSVPs to constitute a quorum but "I will be there" is
>> always
>>> appreciated in doing the food count.
>>>
>>> Don
>>>
>>>
>> --
>> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>>   94 E420, 94 E320, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
>>   91 300D, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
>>   81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
> 
> 
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 94 E320, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
  91 300D, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] W108 4.5: The nightmare begins

[Wonko the Sane]

I was incorrect -- Kaleb was the second next post, but only because he was
out stuffing his face.

On 9/30/07, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> how much and were located?
>
> Wonko the Sane wrote:
> > The next post will be from Kaleb.
> >
> > On 9/30/07, Tom Hargrave <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >> Don't throw up yet - it seems you have purchased a typical Mercedes
> >> project
> >> car. You really only have 2 choices from here, sell it or find a
> running
> >> donor car.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>   94 E420, 94 E320, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
>   91 300D, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
>   81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>



-- 
LT Don
http://don.homelinux.net/~don/
Proudly marching to the beat of a different kettle of fish.

Make a small loan, Make a big difference - Kiva.org
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Re: [MBZ] [Banned] OkieQ reminder

[Wonko the Sane]

That is classified.  But I think I already sent you that off-list.

On 9/30/07, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> When having an event such as this, its always nice to have a list of who
> all is attending.
>
> Wonko the Sane wrote:
> > 13 days and counting.
> >
> > We have enough RSVPs to constitute a quorum but "I will be there" is
> always
> > appreciated in doing the food count.
> >
> > Don
> >
> >
>
> --
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>   94 E420, 94 E320, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
>   91 300D, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
>   81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>



-- 
LT Don
http://don.homelinux.net/~don/
Proudly marching to the beat of a different kettle of fish.

Make a small loan, Make a big difference - Kiva.org
___
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Re: [MBZ] W108 4.5: The nightmare begins

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

how much and were located?

Wonko the Sane wrote:
> The next post will be from Kaleb.
> 
> On 9/30/07, Tom Hargrave <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> Don't throw up yet - it seems you have purchased a typical Mercedes
>> project
>> car. You really only have 2 choices from here, sell it or find a running
>> donor car.
> 
> 
> 
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 94 E320, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
  91 300D, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] [Banned] OkieQ reminder

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

When having an event such as this, its always nice to have a list of who 
all is attending.

Wonko the Sane wrote:
> 13 days and counting.
> 
> We have enough RSVPs to constitute a quorum but "I will be there" is always
> appreciated in doing the food count.
> 
> Don
> 
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 94 E320, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
  91 300D, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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[MBZ] IowaQ reminder

[Wonko the Sane]

Make that IOWAQ -- it has been a looong day!

Don


On 9/30/07, Wonko the Sane <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> 13 days and counting.
>
> We have enough RSVPs to constitute a quorum but "I will be there" is
> always appreciated in doing the food count.
>
> Don
>
>
> --
> LT Don
> http://don.homelinux.net/~don/ 
> Proudly marching to the beat of a different kettle of fish.
>
> Make a small loan, Make a big difference - Kiva.org




-- 
LT Don
http://don.homelinux.net/~don/
Proudly marching to the beat of a different kettle of fish.

Make a small loan, Make a big difference - Kiva.org
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[MBZ] OkieQ reminder

[Wonko the Sane]

13 days and counting.

We have enough RSVPs to constitute a quorum but "I will be there" is always
appreciated in doing the food count.

Don


-- 
LT Don
http://don.homelinux.net/~don/
Proudly marching to the beat of a different kettle of fish.

Make a small loan, Make a big difference - Kiva.org
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Re: [MBZ] Hard Starting 82 300CDT

[Curt Raymond]

Larry don't be so positive all the time, people will think you're on drugs.

You told this story for both of my cars and both are still on the road, the 
190D has another 40,000 miles on it and with new glowplugs it now starts 
perfectly I need only barely touch the key.
My 240D just needed a new battery

-Curt

Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 12:38:19 -0400
From: "LarryT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hard Starting 82 300CDT
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Mercedes Discussion List"
 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
 reply-type=original

With 25+ years on your car it's possible the rings are getting tired.
  How 
many miles?

My 78 lost rings and soon compression on 2, then 3 cylinders.  Starting
 got 
progresssively harder/

A compression test would be better than installing parts you might not 
need -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs

   
-
Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! 
FareChase.
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

[Hendrik & Fay]

Another way to do this is to use the old wheel bearing cup to bash the 
seal in, that's usually what I do.

Hendrik & Fay wrote:
> I have not had problems getting seals in, like others said, use a large, 
> flat faced hammer (not a sledge because they are too hard to control) 
> and gently tap tap tap away. Don't rush it, you got all day. If you get 
> a few small dents in the seal it is not the end of the world but if 
> there are big dings then the seal may well be distorted. The main thing 
> is to make sure that the seal goes in straight, if it gets lopsided then 
> it will be very hard to move.
> I would not recommend heat/cold because by the time you take the seal 
> out of the freezer and move it to the work area it will be at room 
> temperature again. Also in oder to gain any benefit from heat you will 
> have to apply a fair bit of heat (this is because the hub is designed 
> not to expand with moderate heat) and you will burn yourself.
>
> Harry Watkins wrote:
>   
>> Craig
>>
>> A heat and cold method will give you a better shot of getting it right.
>> Cleanly re-capture your grease.  Put the seal in the freezer for a spell and
>> just before you are ready to do the install, use a heat gun or hair dryer on
>> the female part.  Limit touching the seal with your hands as much as
>> possible.
>>
>> It may give you an edge.
>>
>> Harry
>>
>>   
>> 
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>   

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

[Hendrik & Fay]

I have not had problems getting seals in, like others said, use a large, 
flat faced hammer (not a sledge because they are too hard to control) 
and gently tap tap tap away. Don't rush it, you got all day. If you get 
a few small dents in the seal it is not the end of the world but if 
there are big dings then the seal may well be distorted. The main thing 
is to make sure that the seal goes in straight, if it gets lopsided then 
it will be very hard to move.
I would not recommend heat/cold because by the time you take the seal 
out of the freezer and move it to the work area it will be at room 
temperature again. Also in oder to gain any benefit from heat you will 
have to apply a fair bit of heat (this is because the hub is designed 
not to expand with moderate heat) and you will burn yourself.

Harry Watkins wrote:
> Craig
>
> A heat and cold method will give you a better shot of getting it right.
> Cleanly re-capture your grease.  Put the seal in the freezer for a spell and
> just before you are ready to do the install, use a heat gun or hair dryer on
> the female part.  Limit touching the seal with your hands as much as
> possible.
>
> It may give you an edge.
>
> Harry
>
>   

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Re: [MBZ] 1996 E300D OM606.912 delivery valve diesel leak

[Rick Knoble]

> I got my o-rings, copper seals and springs from Rusty, cheap.
> 800-741-5252.  He should always be your first choice unless you need
> something like, right now, and even then, he'll get it to you overnight.
> 
> Harry

AND on orders $75 or over there is FREE shipping. Free is always good. Gives 
you some incentive to purchase those extra filters, ect. that you need.

Rick Knoble 
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT


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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

[Rick Knoble]

>> How do YOU remove seals?
> 
> Like everybody else, with a screwdriver.
> 
> -- Jim

Or a seal puller from Sears Hardware or your F.L.A.P.S.

Rick Knoble 
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT

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Re: [MBZ] W108 4.5: The nightmare begins

[Tom Hargrave]

Probably.

 

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com

  

From: Wonko the Sane [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 7:06 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W108 4.5: The nightmare begins

 

The next post will be from Kaleb. 

On 9/30/07, Tom Hargrave <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Don't throw up yet - it seems you have purchased a typical Mercedes project
car. You really only have 2 choices from here, sell it or find a running
donor car.




-- 
LT Don 
http://don.homelinux.net/~don/
Proudly marching to the beat of a different kettle of fish. 

Make a small loan, Make a big difference - Kiva.org   

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Re: [MBZ] W108 4.5: The nightmare begins

[Wonko the Sane]

The next post will be from Kaleb.

On 9/30/07, Tom Hargrave <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Don't throw up yet - it seems you have purchased a typical Mercedes
> project
> car. You really only have 2 choices from here, sell it or find a running
> donor car.




-- 
LT Don
http://don.homelinux.net/~don/
Proudly marching to the beat of a different kettle of fish.

Make a small loan, Make a big difference - Kiva.org
___
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Re: [MBZ] W108 4.5: The nightmare begins

[Tom Hargrave]

Don't throw up yet - it seems you have purchased a typical Mercedes project
car. You really only have 2 choices from here, sell it or find a running
donor car. A donor can save you thousands of dollars.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com

 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of David Bruckmann
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 5:03 PM
To: Mercedes List
Subject: [MBZ] W108 4.5: The nightmare begins

OK gang, I did the nasty. I bought a 280SEL 4.5. The car has only 93,000
miles (not 193) based on service history and is rust-free. There are issues.
Plenty more than I thought I was getting into. I am now considering whether
I shouldn't try to sell this car instead of keeping it and pouring money
into it. On the bright side, the body really is in excellent condition. It
shows use, but not corrosion. But in my passion I overlooked and/or failed
to investigate lots of things that suggest poor maintenance.

Issues:

-rear-end rumble/grind under load and general noisinesss. I presume this is
the rear diff getting ready to sign off, but I have a faint hope that maybe
it's just a shot centre bearing or flex disc. If it is the rear diff, this
would be a great chance to swap in a 6.3 diff to lower my RPMs on the
highway.

-wanders all over the place. I know the alignment is screwed because the PO
replaced a tie-rod but didn't do an alignment afterwards. Will adjust
steering box. Who knows about tie-rods, but I can only assume they are not
great.

-when driving over bumps, even smaller ones, there's an occasional sharp
knocking coming through the steering column. Subsequent investigation shows
looseness in the steering column where it passes through the firewall. I am
hoping this is merely the bushing. Have not been under the car yet to
determine for sure what's going on, but I won't be driving it until the
origin of the problem is clear.

-interior is generally good, but leather seats are trashed.

-driver's window needs to be lifted manually. Seems not to have any
relationship to motor.

-a/c compressor inop; fan works.

-heater control for fan speed broken. Other levers seem functional.

-passenger door lock vacuum element inop. in locking direction

-ps pump noisy

-chirping noise when engine running and warm. It's not belts, so I assume it
is either the water pump or PS pump saying goodbye.

-PO or someone put spring lifters in three of four corners. I just
discovered this today. I had wondered why the ride seemed firm; now I know.

QUESTIONS:

-what's all this about camshaft oiler kits?
-any tips on how to check the condition of the front subframe mounts would
be appreciated.
-any insight about the rumble/grumble would be appreciated

I'll be doing a complete check of the car, including having it
professionally inspected so that I can determine just how big a mistake this
really was!

I feel like throwing up.

D.

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Re: [MBZ] Hydrogen cars

[OK Don]

Remember the Hindenburg!

On 9/30/07, Steve MacSween <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> on 9/30/07 17:52, Scott Ritchey at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > In short, I think the H2 bandwagon
> > is going in the wrong direction.
>
> The hydrogen is in fact just that, a bandwagon being pushed more heavily by
> dollars aimed at Madison Avenue PR machines, than real money being put into
> the science of it.
>
> The auto companies, being bereft of any immediate answers to serious climate
> change challenges, have seized on hydrogen -- and in particular, on its long
> lead time for implementation and sexy profile -- as a means of showing they
> are 'working hard on innovative approaches' while continuing to shuffle at
> the speed of Alzheimers toward any immediate and real measures in short
> term.
>
> Hydrogen simply makes no sense for the size and geographic challenges of the
> North American market. Even if it can be made cheap and reliable (neither
> even close to being seen now), HOW in lord's name does anyone propose to
> distribute it?
>
> --
> "Mac"

-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics."
-Benjamin Disraeli
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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[MBZ] W 108 The Nightmare Begins

[Dan Weeks]

On Sep 30, 2007, at 5:33 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> -driver's window needs to be lifted manually. Seems not to have any  
> relationship to motor.

When my 126 did that, it was a couple of rivets on the window  
regulator that had sheared. In spite of appearances, the regulator  
was steel, and could be welded back together. Works fine now. Might  
be worth a try, as new regulators are ca. $200, and finding flush  
rivets that'll fit that application was proving difficult. Of course,  
your problem might be something else entirely.

Dan



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Re: [MBZ] Hydrogen cars

[Mitch Haley]

Steve MacSween wrote:
> HOW in lord's name does anyone propose to distribute it?

Dirigibles?

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

[Scott Ritchey]

The trick is you need to push it in straight.  A piece of wood bigger than
the seal (e.g. a piece of 2x4) distributes the force from the hammer evenly.
If the seal starts to cock, pull it out and start over.

Scott

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 17:42
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

On Sun, 30 Sep 2007 12:33:57 -0400 "LarryT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> (no offense Craig, I know you are experienced - becoming more experiencd
> by the day ;-)

Both my wife and I got a laugh out of this. You're right, I AM becoming
more experienced! Reminds me of the line:

"The ability to make good choices comes from experience."
"How do you get experience?"
"Bad choices."


> For those who do something like this once every 10 years I suggest 
> the flat,, soft wood approach,

The frustrating part is I've done it in the past with no problems, but not
recently. More than 10 years ago, as a matter of fact. A fellow at church
this morning said a neighbor of his has a hydraulic press in case I'm
interested.


> For the price of that Overnight shipment a new socket could have been 
> bought.

My neighbor suggested the seal might be a standard part and that the local
NAPA might have it. Though as I said on another thread, 

  When I was in Austin, Texas, I found that if I had purchased V-belts
  for my car from Rusty and had him ship them overnight, it would have
  been cheaper than buying from the local NAPA (which, unfortunately,
  is what I did before I found out what Rusty's delivered cost would
  have been).



On Sun, 30 Sep 2007 12:01:19 -0500 "Harry Watkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> A heat and cold method will give you a better shot of getting it right.

I can certainly easily put the seal in the freezer. Heating the hub would
be a problem because it's massive and because the grease I put in the
middle of the hub would soften and run out. Messes are nice, messes are
fun, but I've had enough fun with this already.



On Sun, 30 Sep 2007 17:36:05 -0400 "Scott Ritchey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> I have had success seating the wheel bearing seal with a big flat piece
> of wood (and a hammer) and also with the deal driver kit you can
> "borrow" from Autozone, etc.

I had not thought of that. It's worth looking into. Thanks.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] W108 4.5: The nightmare begins

[Peter Frederick]

Your front subframe mounts are shot.  Your steering coupler is shot.  
The upper diff mount (in the trunk)  is shot.

Center driveline bearing will cause floor-pan vibration, so will bad 
u-joints.  Nice thing about the u-joints on that driveshaft is that you 
can replace them, they are centered with clips.

Open the hood and take a look at the subframe mount on the driver's 
side (since you can see it, the right side one is under the battery).  
If the large bolt is not in the center of the hold, the mount is gone.  
You can also check behind the front wheel to see if any of the rubber 
is showing, likely not.  Big PITA, but not an undoable job.  Fix before 
the locator rod on the right side gets broken.

Excessive wheel play is a bad steering coupler -- you can get the clips 
and sleeves to rebuild that one, later ones (and all replacements) are 
swaged and have to be tossed.

Check the mounting bolts on the steering box -- they come loose and 
eventually the box pulls off the frame.  Fix as soon as possible.

Plan on a new tie rod, new drag link, and steering damper -- your's are 
toast except for the one replaced.

Good luck finding some place who can do a proper front end alignment -- 
once you take a look you will see what I mean.  MAKE SURE the shop that 
does it KNOWS that the caster MUST be set with the spring straps on the 
subframe, NOT the caster wheel on the upper trunion, or they will screw 
the adjuster on the trunion too far and crush the grease seal, causing 
the trunion to fail.

You will need new rubber in the rear suspension -- upper diff mount 
(remember, this is a swing axle) is in the trunk under a cover.  When 
this is bad, as yours is, the arm rides on the frame, transmitting all 
sorts of noise.  Lots of thumping, banging, excessive jacking, and 
lurching on turns.  you must lift the car onto jack stands to replace, 
support the diff with a floor jack, unbolt the old mount center bolt 
and four small screws, install the new one (and may have to lower the 
whole rear axle down).

Also, the bushings in the control arms on both ends are bad, causing 
all sorts of road noise, wobbly rear end, and goofy steering.  you 
mgiht want to plan to do diff mount and all the bushings at one time.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] The Sprinter

[Kevin Kraly]

I'm surprised it hasn't happened already!  :-)

Hey now!  I haven't gotten rid of the '83 SD yet! :-)  Seriously, with the 
refreshed front suspension, no exhaust leaks and working power seats, it's 
ready for anything!  It still needs the Catheyesque AC recharge with a new 
AC compressor.  In the words of Sig at MBI, "the AC compressor is a dead 
player."

Kevin in Portland, OR
1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula 


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Re: [MBZ] Hydrogen cars

[Steve MacSween]

on 9/30/07 17:52, Scott Ritchey at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> In short, I think the H2 bandwagon
> is going in the wrong direction.

The hydrogen is in fact just that, a bandwagon being pushed more heavily by
dollars aimed at Madison Avenue PR machines, than real money being put into
the science of it. 

The auto companies, being bereft of any immediate answers to serious climate
change challenges, have seized on hydrogen -- and in particular, on its long
lead time for implementation and sexy profile -- as a means of showing they
are 'working hard on innovative approaches' while continuing to shuffle at
the speed of Alzheimers toward any immediate and real measures in short
term.

Hydrogen simply makes no sense for the size and geographic challenges of the
North American market. Even if it can be made cheap and reliable (neither
even close to being seen now), HOW in lord's name does anyone propose to
distribute it?

-- 
"Mac"
Steve MacSween
Aylmer, Quebec (Canada)
Mercedes: '82 300sd / '82 240d (x2) / '60 220s



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[MBZ] W108 4.5: The nightmare begins

[David Bruckmann]

OK gang, I did the nasty. I bought a 280SEL 4.5. The car has only 93,000 miles 
(not 193) based on service history and is rust-free. There are issues. Plenty 
more than I thought I was getting into. I am now considering whether I 
shouldn't try to sell this car instead of keeping it and pouring money into it. 
On the bright side, the body really is in excellent condition. It shows use, 
but not corrosion. But in my passion I overlooked and/or failed to investigate 
lots of things that suggest poor maintenance.

Issues:

-rear-end rumble/grind under load and general noisinesss. I presume this is the 
rear diff getting ready to sign off, but I have a faint hope that maybe it's 
just a shot centre bearing or flex disc. If it is the rear diff, this would be 
a great chance to swap in a 6.3 diff to lower my RPMs on the highway.

-wanders all over the place. I know the alignment is screwed because the PO 
replaced a tie-rod but didn't do an alignment afterwards. Will adjust steering 
box. Who knows about tie-rods, but I can only assume they are not great.

-when driving over bumps, even smaller ones, there's an occasional sharp 
knocking coming through the steering column. Subsequent investigation shows 
looseness in the steering column where it passes through the firewall. I am 
hoping this is merely the bushing. Have not been under the car yet to determine 
for sure what's going on, but I won't be driving it until the origin of the 
problem is clear.

-interior is generally good, but leather seats are trashed.

-driver's window needs to be lifted manually. Seems not to have any 
relationship to motor.

-a/c compressor inop; fan works.

-heater control for fan speed broken. Other levers seem functional.

-passenger door lock vacuum element inop. in locking direction

-ps pump noisy

-chirping noise when engine running and warm. It's not belts, so I assume it is 
either the water pump or PS pump saying goodbye.

-PO or someone put spring lifters in three of four corners. I just discovered 
this today. I had wondered why the ride seemed firm; now I know.

QUESTIONS:

-what's all this about camshaft oiler kits?
-any tips on how to check the condition of the front subframe mounts would be 
appreciated.
-any insight about the rumble/grumble would be appreciated

I'll be doing a complete check of the car, including having it professionally 
inspected so that I can determine just how big a mistake this really was!

I feel like throwing up.

D.

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

[Peter Frederick]

The problem is that the seal is soft sheet metal, doesn't take much to 
bend it up.  I've wrecked a few in my time!

They are available at McParts, usually -- after all, they have the 
bearings.  Not always, though, as the spindle size isn't determined by 
the bearing seat size.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Hydrogen cars

[Scott Ritchey]

This is an important point.  H2 is NOT an energy source, it is only a means
of storing energy.  The actual energy needs to come from somewhere else,
like coal, the worst CO2 producer.  There was a good analysis of this in
IEEE or Tau Beta Pi (don't recall which) about four years ago.  When you add
the storage problems with H2 (requires mucho space and/or pressure), liquid
fuels look much better.  Bio Diesel is still my favorite but synthetic
(Fischer-Tropsch process, like the Nazis used) fuel with gasoline-like
properties can also be carbon neutral.  In short, I think the H2 bandwagon
is going in the wrong direction.

Scott Ritchey

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Peter Frederick
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 10:49
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hydrogen cars

The CO2 is generated when natural gas is used to make the hydrogen

All commerical hydrogen in the US comes from either natural gas (with 
the CO2 dumped to the air) or from hydrolysis of water, almost always 
using electricity generated by burning coal.

Electric cars have the same  problem -- no tailpipe emissions, but the 
CO2 is just generated somewhere else.  Mind you, power plant CO2 isn't 
full of unburned hydrocarbons, but the heavy metals and fly ash are 
probably worse.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] 300b Adenhaur

[M.Affzaal.Khan]

Tom
Just starting to restore it . starting with a  engine rebuild..  it would be 
nice to get input from someone who owns one or has gone through a 
restoration.
mak

.
- Original Message - 
From: "tom savage" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 7:58 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300b Adenhaur


>>
> I'm aquainted with a first series 1952 300 convertible and a 1960
> 300d.  DanG just gave one to Danny Zuko, too.  What do you need to know?
>
> Tom
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>
> -- 
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> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1039 - Release Date: 
> 9/29/2007 9:46 PM
>
> 


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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

[Craig McCluskey]

On Sun, 30 Sep 2007 12:33:57 -0400 "LarryT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> (no offense Craig, I know you are experienced - becoming more experiencd
> by the day ;-)

Both my wife and I got a laugh out of this. You're right, I AM becoming
more experienced! Reminds me of the line:

"The ability to make good choices comes from experience."
"How do you get experience?"
"Bad choices."


> For those who do something like this once every 10 years I suggest 
> the flat,, soft wood approach,

The frustrating part is I've done it in the past with no problems, but not
recently. More than 10 years ago, as a matter of fact. A fellow at church
this morning said a neighbor of his has a hydraulic press in case I'm
interested.


> For the price of that Overnight shipment a new socket could have been 
> bought.

My neighbor suggested the seal might be a standard part and that the local
NAPA might have it. Though as I said on another thread, 

  When I was in Austin, Texas, I found that if I had purchased V-belts
  for my car from Rusty and had him ship them overnight, it would have
  been cheaper than buying from the local NAPA (which, unfortunately,
  is what I did before I found out what Rusty's delivered cost would
  have been).



On Sun, 30 Sep 2007 12:01:19 -0500 "Harry Watkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> A heat and cold method will give you a better shot of getting it right.

I can certainly easily put the seal in the freezer. Heating the hub would
be a problem because it's massive and because the grease I put in the
middle of the hub would soften and run out. Messes are nice, messes are
fun, but I've had enough fun with this already.



On Sun, 30 Sep 2007 17:36:05 -0400 "Scott Ritchey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> I have had success seating the wheel bearing seal with a big flat piece
> of wood (and a hammer) and also with the deal driver kit you can
> "borrow" from Autozone, etc.

I had not thought of that. It's worth looking into. Thanks.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

[Scott Ritchey]

I have had success seating the wheel bearing seal with a big flat piece of
wood (and a hammer) and also with the deal driver kit you can "borrow" from
Autozone, etc.

Scott Ritchey

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 23:13
To: mercedes
Subject: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

Well, I started the process to put my new dial indicator to use and jacked
up the front of the car and removed both wheels. I attacked the driver's
side wheel first. I took the brake caliper off, hung it by a piece of
coathanger wire, and removed the hub and disk.

With a fair amount of difficulty, I got the old grease seal off and
removed the bearings. After much cleaning later (alcohol doesn't cut
grease very well, but it's the only solvent I have), I weighed out some of
the green Mercedes grease into both new grease caps (15 grams each) and
then weighed out 50 grams into two sandwich bags for the two sets of
bearings and hubs. The process of forcing the new grease into the bearings
was a very gooey mess, going not quite as well as I had hoped, but it got
done adequately.

I then proceeded to get my largest socket and tap the seal into place.
Unfortunately, my largest socket wasn't quite large enough and I pushed
one lip of the seal down a noticable amount. After surveying the
situation, I decided to take that one out (and make an overnight shipment
from Rusty necessary). After much struggle again, I got the seal out.

The second time, I knew I had to do something differently. I went next
door and looked at my neighbor's socket collection. Worse than mine. Back
home, I spied the old water pump/fan pulley from the 240D motor. The
mounting flange of the pulley is much larger in diameter than the seal and
thus would not cause the problem I had earlier. So, I proceeded with the
pulley's face resting on the seal and the large socket resting on the
pulley's mounting surface.

I thought I had done a good job. I was wrong. One side of the seal was
pressed down, but not as much as the last time.

So, how good is good enough? I'll be calling Rusty early Monday for a set
of new seals (maybe two), so I can replace this one, too (fortunately the
tube of grease has a little extra grease in it so greasing the lips of
successive new seals won't short the hub of grease).

Any comments? Suggestions? Help? Help!

I'll send a picture on a reply to this email (if I attach it to this
email, it will be held up for Kaleb's approval).


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Cheap Microsoft Office 2007

[Peter Frederick]

Lotus 1-2-3 bites, and Microsoft was quite smart enough to clone Wingz, 
the sharp little spreadsheet program for the Mac and use it instead of 
VisiCalc as the basis for Excel.  Not a particularly good program, even 
today, but we never did get 1-2-3 to print on anything but a dot matrix 
wide carrige printer.  Nasty, and more than enough reason that Lotus 
dropped out of sight.

WordPerfect was and still is a vastly better word processing package 
than Word -- I've been a registered user on various platforms since 
1985, but you could get Office packaged with the OS and the business 
world decided to use it.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] 1996 E300D OM606.912 delivery valve diesel leak

[Craig McCluskey]

On Sun, 30 Sep 2007 11:08:08 -0500 "Harry Watkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> Vik
> 
> I got my o-rings, copper seals and springs from Rusty, cheap.
> 800-741-5252.  He should always be your first choice unless you need
> something like, right now, and even then, he'll get it to you overnight.

When I was in Austin, Texas, I found that if I had purchased V-belts for
my car from Rusty and had him ship them overnight, it would have been
cheaper than buying from the local NAPA (which, unfortunately, is what I
did before I found out what Rusty's delivered cost would have been).


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Fleet

[RELNGSON]

> Knew a guy who drove a Cosworth Vega back in the day. Engine made a helluva 
racket. Of course he also owned a 1929 Fleet.
> RLE
-
>

Not quite related to what I had in mind.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xK4mZE4qgFM

RLE






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Re: [MBZ] Cheap Microsoft Office 2007

[Rich Thomas]

Lotus had (might still have) a very nice integrated package called 
SmartSuite that most users seemed to prefer over MSOffice once they 
learned enough to make an intelligent choice (and here is where the 
stories about MS come in).  IBM decided not to push it too hard, so it 
has sorta faded away.  The elements of SS (other than 123) were sorta 
mashed up from some separate packages from other companies (and these 
were all pretty decent packages when they were stand-alone), but the 
developers did a pretty good job of it.  I still have a SS version I use 
all the time.  MS did something similar I think, but it took them awhile 
to catch up and pass Lotus on reasonable metrics, but it was all about 
marketing anyway.

--R


>
> In the 80's when all this was in the infancy, MS took the lead and created 
> Office with Lotus 1-2-3 hot on its heals. But with Lotus mostly a 
> spreadsheet it soon fell behind. Having a Suite that is able to communicate 
> will all the other components was critical in this period of rapid growth of 
> such a new industry.
>
> Without that ability Office would not have become a market leader and 
> someone else would have stepped up to do what was needed.
>
>   
>

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[MBZ] Another parts yard going out of business

[John Robbins]

http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/car/434101078.html

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Re: [MBZ] The evil broken lug nut is OUT, rear, 300 SDL

[archer]

Does anyone use graphite on the threads?  I've used it for about fifty years 
and never "broke" a bolt but have had the tire people overtighten such that 
I had to use an impact wrench or cheater bar.  I've also used it on spark 
plug threads in aluminum heads and never had to install a helicoil.
Nevertheless, I can see an advantage in Marshalls technique since it 
probably prevents rust where graphite doesn't.
Gerry
---

> EDWARD DENNIS wrote:
>> Hi,
>>   I use a white marine wheel bearing grease on the threads foe 20 years 
>> and proper torque.
>>   Ed in Chicago (Salt way too heavy)
>
> The problem with most greases is that they migrate too much and are VERY
> good lubricants. Paraffin doesn't move around much and is NOT a super
> lubricant (and both of those characteristics are desirable in this
> application). It also has the advantage of being solid at most outside
> temperatures and as such can be tossed as a hunk into your tool box and
> is not at all messy to install/apply.
>
> Marshall
> -- 
> Marshall Booth Ph.D.
> Ass't Prof. (ret.)
> Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
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>
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> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.33/1034 - Release Date: 
> 9/27/2007 5:00 PM
>
> 


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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

[Harry Watkins]

Craig

A heat and cold method will give you a better shot of getting it right.
Cleanly re-capture your grease.  Put the seal in the freezer for a spell and
just before you are ready to do the install, use a heat gun or hair dryer on
the female part.  Limit touching the seal with your hands as much as
possible.

It may give you an edge.

Harry


On 9/30/07, LarryT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Peters suggestion is perfect.   A large flat hammer - I have a 4# and a 8#
> IIRC.  But the thing is, there are several of us who have messed with
> stuff
> like this for 30+ years and have developed a feel for doing something like
> this.  For those who do something like this once every 10 years I suggest
> the flat,, soft wood approach,  and the right tool makes all the
> difference.
> For the price of that Overnight shipment a new socket could have been
> bought.
>
> The critical part is getting the seal started.  It must be started
> straight
> or it won't work.  Period.  You;ll end up forcing it into place and it
> will
> not form a perfect seal.  Once the grease gets hot it'll start to leak.
>
> This is not brain surgery, but it needs a slow, steady approach.  Any rush
> or using the wrong tools and you'll be starting over. (no offense Craig, I
> know you are experienced - becoming more experiencd by the day ;-)
>
> The sound of a fullly seated seal will be similar to a  bearing race being
> fully seated - it will make a sharp sound until it bottoms then changes to
> a
> solid sound.
>
> BTW, I like to use inexpensive sockets for "pressing" stuff like this into
> place.  They end up being damaged somewhat and it's easier with a cheap
> one
> than part of an expensive set.  They can be bought at flea markets and
> yard
> sales for a buck apiece.
>
> Good luck -
>
> Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
> www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
> Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
> Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> .
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Peter Frederick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 11:34 AM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!
>
>
> >I have always driven the grease seal in with a large hammer, very
> > gently applied.  It is sheet metal, every easy to distort, so lightly
> > tapping with a broad faced hammer allows you to get it in quite
> > straight.
> >
> > If you don't feel good about that, use a small, flat piece of wood,
> > preferably a crappy two by four, as it is quite soft and won't damage
> > the seal so easily as steel.
> >
> > They don't take much effort to drive in and seat -- nothing at all like
> > a Timken race!
> >
> > Peter
> >
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1039 - Release Date:
> > 9/29/2007 9:46 PM
> >
> >
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] 1996 E300D OM606.912 delivery valve diesel leak

[Vik Momjian]

Jim, since the parts were incorrect, we DID NOT replace them, we just closed 
everything back up in
order to ge the correct parts and start all over again.

Thanks for the BOSCH website info.

Harry , I would have ordered from Rusty , but my friend the Mercedes mechanic 
at the dealership
got the parts according o the VIN from the dealership parts dep. I guess the 
guy at the counter
messed up !

Thanks again for everyone's input and tips !!

VIK MOMJIAN

1996 E300D 197K miles

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Re: [MBZ] Hard Starting 82 300CDT

[LarryT]

With 25+ years on your car it's possible the rings are getting tired.  How 
many miles?

My 78 lost rings and soon compression on 2, then 3 cylinders.  Starting got 
progresssively harder/

A compression test would be better than installing parts you might not 
need -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
.

- Original Message - 
From: "Dan Schriber" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 9:32 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Hard Starting 82 300CDT


> Hi Everyone
>
>
>
> Our 1982 300 CDT has become very hard to start. We took it into a mechanic
> who replaced the relay and glo plugs and that has not done a thing for
> improving the starting. We have to crank the engine over for a good 20
> seconds to get it to go. Once it is warm it runs like a charm.
>
>
>
> I replaced the fuel filters. A while back I replaced the little rubber 
> hoses
> on the injectors as the old ones had rotten off but this did not coincide
> with the hard starting which began about a month later.
>
>
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
>
>
> Thanks to all
>
>
>
> Dan
>
>
>
> ___
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> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1039 - Release Date: 
> 9/29/2007 9:46 PM
>
> 


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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

[LarryT]

Peters suggestion is perfect.   A large flat hammer - I have a 4# and a 8# 
IIRC.  But the thing is, there are several of us who have messed with stuff 
like this for 30+ years and have developed a feel for doing something like 
this.  For those who do something like this once every 10 years I suggest 
the flat,, soft wood approach,  and the right tool makes all the difference. 
For the price of that Overnight shipment a new socket could have been 
bought.

The critical part is getting the seal started.  It must be started straight 
or it won't work.  Period.  You;ll end up forcing it into place and it will 
not form a perfect seal.  Once the grease gets hot it'll start to leak.

This is not brain surgery, but it needs a slow, steady approach.  Any rush 
or using the wrong tools and you'll be starting over. (no offense Craig, I 
know you are experienced - becoming more experiencd by the day ;-)

The sound of a fullly seated seal will be similar to a  bearing race being 
fully seated - it will make a sharp sound until it bottoms then changes to a 
solid sound.

BTW, I like to use inexpensive sockets for "pressing" stuff like this into 
place.  They end up being damaged somewhat and it's easier with a cheap one 
than part of an expensive set.  They can be bought at flea markets and yard 
sales for a buck apiece.

Good luck -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
.

- Original Message - 
From: "Peter Frederick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 11:34 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!


>I have always driven the grease seal in with a large hammer, very
> gently applied.  It is sheet metal, every easy to distort, so lightly
> tapping with a broad faced hammer allows you to get it in quite
> straight.
>
> If you don't feel good about that, use a small, flat piece of wood,
> preferably a crappy two by four, as it is quite soft and won't damage
> the seal so easily as steel.
>
> They don't take much effort to drive in and seat -- nothing at all like
> a Timken race!
>
> Peter
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1039 - Release Date: 
> 9/29/2007 9:46 PM
>
> 


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[MBZ] eBay description of the month

[Steve MacSween]

>From a listing for a slightly dog-eared w126:

this car is not perfect not nowhere close to perfect but you are not either

___

I wish I had thought of that line.

Mac


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Re: [MBZ] 1996 E300D OM606.912 delivery valve diesel leak

[Harry Watkins]

Vik

I got my o-rings, copper seals and springs from Rusty, cheap.
800-741-5252.  He should always be your first choice unless you need
something like, right now, and even then, he'll get it to you overnight.

Harry


On 9/30/07, Vik Momjian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Thank You All for the replies !
>
> Unfortunately , the O rings and copper gasket/seals I got from the
> dealership were not the correct
> size ! We discovered this after removing one delivery valve (all the way
> in front of the IP).
> Now as if this wasn't bad enough,
> (all local dealership parts depts closed on Saturdays and these are dealer
> ONLY items)
> when we put everything back together , the car would not start !
> Tried bleeding the lines ,replaced fuel filter (filled with ATF to prime)
> , NOTHING !
>
> After trying for 3 hours, reversing all the steps and trying again
> ,draining the battery a few
> times while cranking ,we finally gave up and decided that I would have the
> car towed to the
> dealership he works at on Monday to have him and a diesel expert work on
> it.
>
> Since I got your tips re. torque specs much later , we marked the delivery
> valve with a notch
> before removing it and put it back by lining it up with the notch, crude I
> know , but we were not
> prepared with the info needed
>
> Any suggestions before the dealer takes me to the cleaners on Monday ?
>
> ANY HELP WOULd BE MUCH MUCH APPRECIATED 
>
> Thanking you all in advance,
>
> VIK MOMJIAN
> 1996 E300D 197k miles
>
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

[Peter Frederick]

I have always driven the grease seal in with a large hammer, very 
gently applied.  It is sheet metal, every easy to distort, so lightly 
tapping with a broad faced hammer allows you to get it in quite 
straight.

If you don't feel good about that, use a small, flat piece of wood, 
preferably a crappy two by four, as it is quite soft and won't damage 
the seal so easily as steel.

They don't take much effort to drive in and seat -- nothing at all like 
a Timken race!

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

[Jim Cathey]

> Unless you have bent it out of shape trying to remove it.

Just bend it back into shape, more or less.  It doesn't
need to be perfect!

> How do YOU remove seals?

Like everybody else, with a screwdriver.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

[Craig McCluskey]

On Sun, 30 Sep 2007 08:10:53 -0700 Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> > The seal must be installed till it is fully seated.
> 
> Incidentally, the old seal often makes a perfectly-sized
> seal driver.

Unless you have bent it out of shape trying to remove it.

How do YOU remove seals?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] The evil broken lug nut is OUT, rear, 300 SDL

[Marshall Booth]

EDWARD DENNIS wrote:
> Hi,
>   I use a white marine wheel bearing grease on the threads foe 20 years and 
> proper torque.
>   Ed in Chicago (Salt way too heavy)

The problem with most greases is that they migrate too much and are VERY 
good lubricants. Paraffin doesn't move around much and is NOT a super 
lubricant (and both of those characteristics are desirable in this 
application). It also has the advantage of being solid at most outside 
temperatures and as such can be tossed as a hunk into your tool box and 
is not at all messy to install/apply.

Marshall
-- 
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] Post Falls SL

[Jim Cathey]

Friday I was able to pull the back off the driver's seat and found that
the square drive rod had slipped out of the inside gearbox.  I detached
the seat back and drove both pivots separately, no problem.  I put it
partially back together with the rod engaging both sides so the car can
be driven.  It's possible that the seat back has spread a little so that
the rod is a bit short.  We'll see.  It's so stiff that I also want to
attempt a mild lubrication of the gearboxes.  Not too good, I've found
that the back tips on its own then!

Today I found that the seat back _is_ wider than it ought to be!  The
stamped metal rail that ties the seat back sides together along the
lower back broke off.  The seat back spreads under weight and the
adjustment rod pops out.  I peeled back the leather from the area and
draped a wet towel around everything, clamped the sides together to take
out all the slack, used a Vise-grip C-clamp to pull the rail into place,
wire-brushed the joint, then welded the rail back to the side.  I also
did the other side because it was starting to come loose.  Clean metal
welds _so_ nicely, I had the 'glue gun' experience today.  "Watch out
Honey, I've been welding and you know how that makes me all manly!"

Anyway, with that stitched back together I put on a little black paint
for rust protection, lubed the adjusters, and reassembled the seat.  A
little Simple Green was used to lube the seat back panel, that really
helps.  The seat works great now.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

[Jim Cathey]

> The seal must be installed till it is fully seated.

Incidentally, the old seal often makes a perfectly-sized
seal driver.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 300b Adenhaur

[tom savage]

On 9/28/07, M.Affzaal.Khan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
> Hi all
>
> Anyone on the list with a 300b, early fifties model ?



I'm aquainted with a first series 1952 300 convertible and a 1960
300d.  DanG just gave one to Danny Zuko, too.  What do you need to know?

Tom
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Re: [MBZ] Hydrogen cars

[Peter Frederick]

The CO2 is generated when natural gas is used to make the hydrogen

All commerical hydrogen in the US comes from either natural gas (with 
the CO2 dumped to the air) or from hydrolysis of water, almost always 
using electricity generated by burning coal.

Electric cars have the same  problem -- no tailpipe emissions, but the 
CO2 is just generated somewhere else.  Mind you, power plant CO2 isn't 
full of unburned hydrocarbons, but the heavy metals and fly ash are 
probably worse.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Hard Starting 82 300CDT

[Mitch Haley]

Hand primer pump leaks air?

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Re: [MBZ] Hard Starting 82 300CDT

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Well its very easy to check to see of the glow plugs and/or relay are 
bad.  Sounds like this mechanic is just throwing parts at the problem. 
Hopefully he either removed and installed your old parts at his expense 
or didnt charge you to replace things that was not the problem.  When is 
the last time the valves have been adjusted?

Dan Schriber wrote:
> Hi Everyone
> 
>  
> 
> Our 1982 300 CDT has become very hard to start. We took it into a mechanic
> who replaced the relay and glo plugs and that has not done a thing for
> improving the starting. We have to crank the engine over for a good 20
> seconds to get it to go. Once it is warm it runs like a charm. 
> 
>  
> 
> I replaced the fuel filters. A while back I replaced the little rubber hoses
> on the injectors as the old ones had rotten off but this did not coincide
> with the hard starting which began about a month later. 
> 
>  
> 
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks to all
> 
>  
> 
> Dan
> 
>  
> 
> ___
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> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 94 E320, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
  91 300D, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

[Craig McCluskey]

On Sun, 30 Sep 2007 04:59:37 -0400 Wray Stanley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> Craig McCluskey wrote:
> 
> > I thought I had done a good job. I was wrong. One side of the seal was
> > pressed down, but not as much as the last time.
> > 
> > So, how good is good enough?
> 
> Craig,
> 
> The seal must be installed till it is fully seated. In your situation, 
> the side of the seal that is "pressed down" is fully seated; the rest of
> the seal isn't.

Now that the picture has been posted, take a look at it. Everything is
fully seated. The side in question has been bent down.


Craig

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[MBZ] Hard Starting 82 300CDT

[Dan Schriber]

Hi Everyone

 

Our 1982 300 CDT has become very hard to start. We took it into a mechanic
who replaced the relay and glo plugs and that has not done a thing for
improving the starting. We have to crank the engine over for a good 20
seconds to get it to go. Once it is warm it runs like a charm. 

 

I replaced the fuel filters. A while back I replaced the little rubber hoses
on the injectors as the old ones had rotten off but this did not coincide
with the hard starting which began about a month later. 

 

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Thanks to all

 

Dan

 

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

[Craig McCluskey]

On Sat, 29 Sep 2007 21:12:53 -0600 Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> I'll send a picture on a reply to this email (if I attach it to this
> email, it will be held up for Kaleb's approval).

Here's the picture.

It sure is frustrating not having the correct tools ...


Craig
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Re: [MBZ] 1996 E300D OM606.912 delivery valve diesel leak

[Craig McCluskey]

On Sun, 30 Sep 2007 06:52:55 -0700 Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> Are you SURE that they will re-do seals only there?  It's possible you
> need to have towed to a Bosch shop instead.

Good idea.

Vik, check out:

http://www.boschservice.com/ServiceLocations/ServiceLocations.htm



Craig


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Re: [MBZ] The Sprinter

[Jim Cathey]

> this new Dodge will be in the fleet forever, and if I have
> even the slightest thought of trading it off,  I'll be hanged!

I'm surprised it hasn't happened already!  :-)

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 1996 E300D OM606.912 delivery valve diesel leak

[Jim Cathey]

> we marked the delivery valve with a notch before removing
>  it and put it back by lining it up with the notch,

This could be bad.  If the new incorrect seals were thicker
than they should be this would result in too much torque,
possibly resulting in valve body warpage.  The dealer's
only sanctioned option is, last I heard, replacing the
IP bodily.  That is not cheap.  Are you SURE that they
will re-do seals only there?  It's possible you need to
have towed to a Bosch shop instead.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 1996 E300D OM606.912 delivery valve diesel leak

[Vik Momjian]

Thank You All for the replies !

Unfortunately , the O rings and copper gasket/seals I got from the dealership 
were not the correct
size ! We discovered this after removing one delivery valve (all the way in 
front of the IP).
Now as if this wasn't bad enough,
(all local dealership parts depts closed on Saturdays and these are dealer ONLY 
items) 
when we put everything back together , the car would not start !
Tried bleeding the lines ,replaced fuel filter (filled with ATF to prime) , 
NOTHING !

After trying for 3 hours, reversing all the steps and trying again ,draining 
the battery a few
times while cranking ,we finally gave up and decided that I would have the car 
towed to the
dealership he works at on Monday to have him and a diesel expert work on it.

Since I got your tips re. torque specs much later , we marked the delivery 
valve with a notch
before removing it and put it back by lining it up with the notch, crude I know 
, but we were not
prepared with the info needed

Any suggestions before the dealer takes me to the cleaners on Monday ?

ANY HELP WOULd BE MUCH MUCH APPRECIATED 

Thanking you all in advance,

VIK MOMJIAN
1996 E300D 197k miles



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[MBZ] Hydrogen cars

[archer]

- Original Message - 
From: "archer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 6:27 AM
Subject: Hydrogen cars


> Last week, two dozen hydrogen cars were handed to VIPs in California. 
> Under Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger, green is the new black for motorists 
> there. And the new 'Beamer', the Hydrogen 7, was suddenly the epitome of 
> cool. Not just cool, but cold. What makes it run is a double-insulated 
> cylinder - behind the rear passenger seat - which is full of liquid 
> hydrogen kept at minus 253C.
>
> The BMW is designed around a conventional internal combustion engine. Not 
> only does the BMW look and drive like a conventional Series 7, but it can 
> also be switched seamlessly back into 'petrol mode' if necessary. That is 
> particularly important, according to local hydrogen-car supporters, 
> because it could make the car practical for everyday driving without the 
> large-scale network of filling stations required to bring hydrogen into 
> the motoring mainstream.
>
> Ned Temko takes the BMW Hydrogen 7 for a Californian test drive:
> "As I settled in for a three-hour drive across northern California in 
> BMW's Hydrogen 7, the only clue that this was no ordinary car came when I 
> pressed the 'start' button.
> For a second or two, there was a high-pitched whine, a bit like an 
> electric lawnmower with mechanical problems. But then came the low purr of 
> the engine. As I made my way into the San Francisco traffic I had to 
> glance down at the glowing 'H2' signal to convince myself that supercooled 
> hydrogen, not petrol, was powering me along at a silky smooth, if not 
> strictly legal, 80-90mph.
> Only two small buttons distinguished the car from the identical 
> wood-and-leather interior of BMW's conventional Series 7 cars. The first, 
> which I intermittently pressed in the vain hope of sensing some difference 
> in performance, switched the car from H2 to petrol mode and back again.
> The second opened the 'hydrogen fuel cap', indispensable when I pulled 
> into the specially provided 'hydrogen fill-up station' outside Sacramento. 
> Five minutes later, the car was full of juice again. Another push of the 
> start button, the brief whine as the engine came to life, and we were off 
> again - just like a 'real' BMW ... only without the C02".
> http://observer.guardian.co.uk/world/story/0,,2170227,00.html
> 


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Re: [MBZ] Vega

[archer]

> Knew a guy who drove a Cosworth Vega back in the day. Engine made a 
> helluva
> racket. Of course he also owned a 1929 Fleet.
> RLE
-
Has anyone ever seen a 1928 Oakland at car shows or otherwise?  It had wood 
spoke wheels, a rumble seat, and a canvas covered cab.  It was the first car 
in our family; would always start in freezing weather when "modern" (1930s 
model cars) wouldn't.  I haven't seen one since it was sold in the late 
1930s.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oakland_%28automobile%29
Gerry


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Re: [MBZ] Vega Blocks

[Wray Stanley]

EDWARD DENNIS wrote:
> Hi,
>   Can you tell me why the Diesel Smart is in Canada but not the States??
>   Thanks 


Emissions requirements. There is also no turbo engine available in the 
States.

Wray

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

[Wray Stanley]

Craig McCluskey wrote:

> I thought I had done a good job. I was wrong. One side of the seal was
> pressed down, but not as much as the last time.
> 
> So, how good is good enough?

Craig,

The seal must be installed till it is fully seated. In your situation, 
the side of the seal that is "pressed down" is fully seated; the rest of 
the seal isn't.

With a hammer and a block of wood, start tapping around the raised 
portion of the seal till the entire circumference of the seal is equally 
pressed down.

Finish by gently tapping around the seal with just the hammer, no wood 
block. You can tell by the sound when the seal is seated. A seated seal 
makes a harder sound.

Wray

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Re: [MBZ] The Sprinter

[Kevin Kraly]

Craig,

I was rooting for the Sprinter too, but it seemed to be too much of a 
compromise between power and fuel economy for my needs.  I would recommend 
one to anyone hauling loads of people around, and they're great contractor's 
vans.  It wouldn't be too bad of a tow vehicle on flatter ground with a 
trailer weighing 3500 pounds or under.

Kevin in Portland, OR
1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula 


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Re: [MBZ] The Sprinter

[Kevin Kraly]

I do not think of the hill to the West of Portland as moderate!

I just checked, and it is a 7.5% grade, a bit more than moderate, I'd say! 
No wonder it takes the grunt of a Cummins to muster enough speed to maintain 
the speed limit while towing anything!  All of the W123 300 NA Diesels i've 
owned have had a time pulling that hill as it takes all 88 hp to get there 
with the shifter in S.  They all could hit 60 mph by the time we reached the 
crest of the hill.  The SD doesn't have much trouble at all, and it's a good 
Italian Tune-up.  Back to the Cummins Diesel, this new Dodge will be in the 
fleet forever, and if I have even the slightest thought of trading it off, 
I'll be hanged!

Kevin in Portland, OR
1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula 


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