Re: [MBZ] Heater valve W124

2007-10-04 Thread Peter Merle
I wish it was , with all these electrical devices failing the cost
advantage of the fuel saving is negated by all these electrical
failures. Your can buy fuel for 4000 km for the price of a heater valve
! At least I still have vehicles that have no Intel inside .
Peter
120.110
460.332 *2 
123.130
124.130

-Original Message-
From: Alex Chamberlain [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: 03 October 2007 17:57
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Heater valve W124


On 10/2/07, Peter Merle [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 One of my dual heater electrical valves has stuck open on my W124 
 resulting in a permanent supply of hot air in the car. Are there 
 repair kits available for this from Bosch /elsewhere? Peter

A 124 with manual climate control?  Be still my heart!

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al.

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[MBZ] How much oil in A/C pump?

2007-10-04 Thread archer
I have a new Harrison A/C compressor from Rusty ready to go in an '83 240D. 
A tag says oil must be added but does not say how much or in which port it 
should be poured.

There is no information on whether this is a Harrison R-4 (four cylinder), 
A-6 (six cylinder), DA-6 (six cylinder), or V-5 (five cylinder) compressor. 
According to the Haynes A/C manual, the amount of oil that should be added 
to each type of compressor is varied.  The only ports this compressor has 
other than the hose ports is a plug held in by a snap ring and a brass plug 
with a green center screwed into  the back of the compressor.  If someone 
(Rusty?) can tell me which Harrison compressor this is, I can figure out the 
amount of oil necessary.  Six ounces seems to be the usual amount.

I plan to flush the lines, evaporator, and condenser; and replace the dryer. 
Haynes rule-of-thumb for adding oil to those components after flushing is:
Condenser-one ounce
Dryer-one ounce
evaporator-three ounces
Harrison A-6, R-4, or V-5  Two ounces plus the number of ounces drained from 
the old compressor.

Does this sound right?

Thanks,
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D 


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Re: [MBZ] How much oil in A/C pump?

2007-10-04 Thread LarryT
This page should allow you to match the photo to the compressor you have -
http://readerair.co.uk/compressors.htm

Good luck -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
.

- Original Message - 
From: archer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 5:41 AM
Subject: [MBZ] How much oil in A/C pump?


I have a new Harrison A/C compressor from Rusty ready to go in an '83 240D.
 A tag says oil must be added but does not say how much or in which port it
 should be poured.

 There is no information on whether this is a Harrison R-4 (four cylinder),
 A-6 (six cylinder), DA-6 (six cylinder), or V-5 (five cylinder) 
 compressor.
 According to the Haynes A/C manual, the amount of oil that should be added
 to each type of compressor is varied.  The only ports this compressor has
 other than the hose ports is a plug held in by a snap ring and a brass 
 plug
 with a green center screwed into  the back of the compressor.  If someone
 (Rusty?) can tell me which Harrison compressor this is, I can figure out 
 the
 amount of oil necessary.  Six ounces seems to be the usual amount.

 I plan to flush the lines, evaporator, and condenser; and replace the 
 dryer.
 Haynes rule-of-thumb for adding oil to those components after flushing is:
 Condenser-one ounce
 Dryer-one ounce
 evaporator-three ounces
 Harrison A-6, R-4, or V-5  Two ounces plus the number of ounces drained 
 from
 the old compressor.

 Does this sound right?

 Thanks,
 Gerry Archer
 '83 300D and 240D


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 Checked by AVG Free Edition.
 Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.39/1045 - Release Date: 
 10/2/2007 6:43 PM
 


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Re: [MBZ] Does it work?

2007-10-04 Thread Loren Faeth
Whatever it was, it didn't work


At 11:07 PM 10/3/2007, you wrote:
Yeah, I know, I flunked, but I wanted to find out anyway.


Craig

---
Craig McCluskey

Present: 1982 240D/3.0 (Euro 1984 617.912 engine, 4-speed) 238 kmi
Past: 1964 190Dc
  1972 220D/8
  1972 220/8
  1987 190E/2.3

  /\
  \ /  ASCII RIBBON CAMPAIGN   Friends don't send friends
   X   AGAINST HTML MAIL   HTML email.
  / \  AND POSTINGS
http://www.fred.net/tds/longrange.html
   http://pruffle.mit.edu/~ccarter/I_do_not_use_microsoft.html

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Loren Faeth 


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Re: [MBZ] How much oil in A/C pump?

2007-10-04 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin, work
The compressor on your car is a R4

---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 FSBO Supervisor

- Original Message - 
From: archer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 4:41 AM
Subject: [MBZ] How much oil in A/C pump?


I have a new Harrison A/C compressor from Rusty ready to go in an '83 240D.
 A tag says oil must be added but does not say how much or in which port it
 should be poured.

 There is no information on whether this is a Harrison R-4 (four cylinder),
 A-6 (six cylinder), DA-6 (six cylinder), or V-5 (five cylinder) 
 compressor.
 According to the Haynes A/C manual, the amount of oil that should be added
 to each type of compressor is varied.  The only ports this compressor has
 other than the hose ports is a plug held in by a snap ring and a brass 
 plug
 with a green center screwed into  the back of the compressor.  If someone
 (Rusty?) can tell me which Harrison compressor this is, I can figure out 
 the
 amount of oil necessary.  Six ounces seems to be the usual amount.

 I plan to flush the lines, evaporator, and condenser; and replace the 
 dryer.
 Haynes rule-of-thumb for adding oil to those components after flushing is:
 Condenser-one ounce
 Dryer-one ounce
 evaporator-three ounces
 Harrison A-6, R-4, or V-5  Two ounces plus the number of ounces drained 
 from
 the old compressor.

 Does this sound right?

 Thanks,
 Gerry Archer
 '83 300D and 240D


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Re: [MBZ] How much oil in A/C pump?

2007-10-04 Thread Allan Streib
Can't help with your main question, but -- how do you go about
flushing the lines?  Something I want to do to mine; I want to convert
from 134a back to R12.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1966 230

archer [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 I have a new Harrison A/C compressor from Rusty ready to go in an '83 240D. 
 A tag says oil must be added but does not say how much or in which port it 
 should be poured.

 There is no information on whether this is a Harrison R-4 (four cylinder), 
 A-6 (six cylinder), DA-6 (six cylinder), or V-5 (five cylinder) compressor. 
 According to the Haynes A/C manual, the amount of oil that should be added 
 to each type of compressor is varied.  The only ports this compressor has 
 other than the hose ports is a plug held in by a snap ring and a brass plug 
 with a green center screwed into  the back of the compressor.  If someone 
 (Rusty?) can tell me which Harrison compressor this is, I can figure out the 
 amount of oil necessary.  Six ounces seems to be the usual amount.

 I plan to flush the lines, evaporator, and condenser; and replace the dryer. 
 Haynes rule-of-thumb for adding oil to those components after flushing is:
 Condenser-one ounce
 Dryer-one ounce
 evaporator-three ounces
 Harrison A-6, R-4, or V-5  Two ounces plus the number of ounces drained from 
 the old compressor.

 Does this sound right?

 Thanks,
 Gerry Archer
 '83 300D and 240D 

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Re: [MBZ] Does it work?

2007-10-04 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 07:33:19 -0500 Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 Whatever it was, it didn't work

It was Kaleb's email system with no postings last night.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Daimler vs. Benz --

2007-10-04 Thread Rich Thomas
I am outraged!  Outraged I tell you!

--R

OK Don wrote:
 Do we care?

 http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/business/7027460.stm

   

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Re: [MBZ] Does it work?

2007-10-04 Thread Allan Streib
Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Yeah, I know, I flunked, but I wanted to find out anyway.

Reminds me of a fortune cookie I got once:

  Either it doesn't work or it isn't needed.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1966 230

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Re: [MBZ] How much oil in A/C pump?

2007-10-04 Thread Jim Cathey
 There is no information on whether this is a Harrison R-4 (four 
 cylinder),
 A-6 (six cylinder), DA-6 (six cylinder), or V-5 (five cylinder)

If your 123 is anything like mine, it's an R4.  They're short
but fat as the pistons are radially oriented.  Think piston
airplane.  The others are all axial, with pistons that move
fore and aft against a swash plate.  Much longer, and smaller
in diameter.

-- Jim


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[MBZ] Daimler vs. Benz --

2007-10-04 Thread OK Don
Do we care?

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/business/7027460.stm

-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics.
-Benjamin Disraeli
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] How much oil in A/C pump?

2007-10-04 Thread Jim Cathey
 Can't help with your main question, but -- how do you go about
 flushing the lines?  Something I want to do to mine; I want to convert
 from 134a back to R12.

It's a royal pain.  Two times I've back-converted, but to HC
refrigerant not R12 itself.  For one I just washed out the
compressor with gasoline and dried it, then put in its amount
of mineral oil.  The other I assumed the job was so cheaply
done that they'd left in the mineral oil, and I just swapped
refrigerants back.  The HC mix is very good at transporting
oil, I'm assuming it can move the crappy stuff around too.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-04 Thread Jim Cathey
So, anybody electronical out there that's connected well enough
to find some specs on a Chinese T2142 Dynamo Transistor?  All
I really need right now is a pinout, and its basic characteristics.
With any luck the one I have is still good, but using the Fluke to
suss out the pins isn't working too well.  Assuming that it is
NPN-ish with customary pinouts for the package gets me a schematic
that is stupid.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-04 Thread Frederick W Moir
Hi, Jim.
I'm sure that you found this, but:-
http://iscsemi.cn/hot.asp

www.szcanyi.com/showpic.asp?id=24

Made in China. (where else?)

Fred Moir
Lynn MA




At 09:53 AM 10/4/2007, you wrote:
So, anybody electronical out there that's connected well enough
to find some specs on a Chinese T2142 Dynamo Transistor?  All
I really need right now is a pinout, and its basic characteristics.
With any luck the one I have is still good, but using the Fluke to
suss out the pins isn't working too well.  Assuming that it is
NPN-ish with customary pinouts for the package gets me a schematic
that is stupid.

-- Jim
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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-04 Thread Frederick W Moir
Jim C.


http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/105045/SANYO/TT2142.html

Fred Moir

At 09:53 AM 10/4/2007, you wrote:
So, anybody electronical out there that's connected well enough
to find some specs on a Chinese T2142 Dynamo Transistor?  All
I really need right now is a pinout, and its basic characteristics.
With any luck the one I have is still good, but using the Fluke to
suss out the pins isn't working too well.  Assuming that it is
NPN-ish with customary pinouts for the package gets me a schematic
that is stupid.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Does it work?

2007-10-04 Thread Loren Faeth
Silence is golden

At 08:47 AM 10/4/2007, you wrote:
On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 07:33:19 -0500 Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

  Whatever it was, it didn't work

It was Kaleb's email system with no postings last night.


Craig

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Loren Faeth 


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Re: [MBZ] Daimler vs. Benz --

2007-10-04 Thread Loren Faeth
I think it should return to D-B, but they won't ask me.  Daimler is a 
british car.   Ya, I know, the German no-name company, formerly known 
as prince, er, Daimler Chrysler bought the rights to use Daimler, but 
the company still should be D-B.


Then again maybe the no-name company should go back to the name of 
prince.  Prince was our German shepherd when I was a kid.  As long as 
the company does not want to be associated with Mercedes Benz, why 
not run from Daimler too?

What outrages ME is the hoopla about being able to buy all kinds of 
Bluetec Diesel cars and vans in the US and then nothing available 
here, but listers report sightings in the rest of the world!

Loren
All my cars were made by Daimler-Benz, back when they gave a rip.

At 08:42 AM 10/4/2007, you wrote:
I am outraged!  Outraged I tell you!

--R

OK Don wrote:
  Do we care?
 
  http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/business/7027460.stm
 
 

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Loren Faeth 


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Re: [MBZ] How much oil in A/C pump?

2007-10-04 Thread Harry Watkins
Gary, I can't help with your problem, but you may be able to help me.  The
compressor in my 81 240D is currently being held from falling by ropes (not
in place).  All the bolts are gone and I have no idea of even how many bolts
or where they go.  This was actually cooling until it fell out and may work
if I can get it mounted again.

As you go about your exchange, please keep me in mind for a tutorial when
you finish.

Thanks
Harry


On 10/4/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  Can't help with your main question, but -- how do you go about
  flushing the lines?  Something I want to do to mine; I want to convert
  from 134a back to R12.

 It's a royal pain.  Two times I've back-converted, but to HC
 refrigerant not R12 itself.  For one I just washed out the
 compressor with gasoline and dried it, then put in its amount
 of mineral oil.  The other I assumed the job was so cheaply
 done that they'd left in the mineral oil, and I just swapped
 refrigerants back.  The HC mix is very good at transporting
 oil, I'm assuming it can move the crappy stuff around too.

 -- Jim


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[MBZ] T2142

2007-10-04 Thread Frederick W Moir
Jim.
Hope this helps
Fred
http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/105045/SANYO/TT2142.html


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Re: [MBZ] How much oil in A/C pump?

2007-10-04 Thread Mitch Haley


Harry Watkins wrote:
 
 As you go about your exchange, please keep me in mind for a tutorial when
 you finish.

Ask him to measure and count the bolts as he reassembles it.

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Re: [MBZ] How much oil in A/C pump?

2007-10-04 Thread JFreezn
 
In a message dated 10/4/2007 2:44:21 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I have a  new Harrison A/C compressor from Rusty ready to go in an '83 240D. 
A tag  says oil must be added but does not say how much or in which port it  
should be poured.



You have an R4 as you already know.  The way the ports are oriented  (upside 
down from GM), you can only put in about 2 ounces before it will run out  when 
you tip the compressor up to install it.  So pour a couple ounces in  it and 
at least 2 more ounces into the dryer fitting.  the whole system  when new 
would call for about 8 ounces of oil and it is very likely that most of  your 
has 
been lost due to leakage.  
 
With the oil in the compressor, you need to rotate the piston assy and lube  
the seal.  the clutch should face down and what I do is clamp a 14mm deep  
socket in the vice, set the compressor drive shaft nut on the socket and  
rotate 
the compressor a couple turns.  It will turn fairly hard  but should turn 
smoothly.
 
by the way, does your compressor have the X embossed into the front bearing  
cover to denote that the oil feed port is up when installed.  How about  your 
old one?  If you got it from Rusty, it should be set up for MB  engines, which 
basically mount the R4 upside down from GM applications.   There was quite a 
discussion about  whether is important to have the oil  feed up but if you 
have the compressor in hand, I would at least check it's  orientation.  You can 
unbolt and rotate the front bearing cover to achieve  the correct orientation.  
Lift the front cover just enough to insure that  the O-ring gasket is not 
sticking to the cover.  I will send 3  pictures, separately, which you will 
have 
to extract from Kaleb's  files.
 
Good luck,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles 
98 ML 320, 152 K  miles




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Re: [MBZ] How much oil in A/C pump?

2007-10-04 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
I sent you a PDF file that should answer your question. If the system is 
completely flushed, go by the total system capacity in the first section.

-Robert

archer wrote:
 I have a new Harrison A/C compressor from Rusty ready to go in an '83 240D. 
 A tag says oil must be added but does not say how much or in which port it 
 should be poured.

 There is no information on whether this is a Harrison R-4 (four cylinder), 
 A-6 (six cylinder), DA-6 (six cylinder), or V-5 (five cylinder) compressor. 
 According to the Haynes A/C manual, the amount of oil that should be added 
 to each type of compressor is varied.  The only ports this compressor has 
 other than the hose ports is a plug held in by a snap ring and a brass plug 
 with a green center screwed into  the back of the compressor.  If someone 
 (Rusty?) can tell me which Harrison compressor this is, I can figure out the 
 amount of oil necessary.  Six ounces seems to be the usual amount.

 I plan to flush the lines, evaporator, and condenser; and replace the dryer. 
 Haynes rule-of-thumb for adding oil to those components after flushing is:
 Condenser-one ounce
 Dryer-one ounce
 evaporator-three ounces
 Harrison A-6, R-4, or V-5  Two ounces plus the number of ounces drained from 
 the old compressor.

 Does this sound right?

 Thanks,
 Gerry Archer
 '83 300D and 240D 


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[MBZ] PCI-express

2007-10-04 Thread Luther
WOW, I'm so far behind in the technology wave that I don't have a clue  
what PCI-express is.  I've spent half the morning learning the tech  
advances of the last 2 1/2 years.

Luther

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Re: [MBZ] PCI-express

2007-10-04 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin, work
I have no idea what you are talking about.

---
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Cox Auto Trader
730 FSBO Supervisor

- Original Message - 
From: Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 12:00 PM
Subject: [MBZ] PCI-express


 WOW, I'm so far behind in the technology wave that I don't have a clue  
 what PCI-express is.  I've spent half the morning learning the tech  
 advances of the last 2 1/2 years.
 
 Luther
 
 -- 
 Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/
 
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[MBZ] Stealer loose 32OCDI oil cap

2007-10-04 Thread wilton strickland
Stealer left oil filler cap loose on my son's new 07 R320CDI coupla days
ago.  Engine comp., vehicle underside and rear dripping oil when he got
home!  Lucky, though, that he lost only ~ a quart.

Wilton


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-04 Thread archer

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 So, anybody electronical out there that's connected well enough
 to find some specs on a Chinese T2142 Dynamo Transistor?  All
 I really need right now is a pinout, and its basic characteristics.
 With any luck the one I have is still good, but using the Fluke to
 suss out the pins isn't working too well.  Assuming that it is
 NPN-ish with customary pinouts for the package gets me a schematic
 that is stupid.
 -- Jim
---
If you're anywhere near a big university you might try their engineering 
libraries website and look for circuits, transistors, dynamo, gensets, 
generators, chinese generators, etc.  If you find something you can go to 
the library and zerox whatever you need.
Back when I was fooling around with the some of the early Asian electronics 
I found that the eng libr had books with circuits for nearly any kind of 
manufactured electronic part or product imaginable.  If the librarian is 
knowledgeable, he/she might help you find what you're looking for.  Senior 
students sometime work the libraries desk.  If the university in your area 
is like the University of Florida, you'll very likely see many Chinese and 
other oriental students working there.  Some of them might actually be 
familiar with your genset.
Good luck,
Gerry 


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Re: [MBZ] Daimler vs. Benz --

2007-10-04 Thread archer
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Do we care?
 http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/business/7027460.stm

Don't think I've ever seen anyone with a mustache like Benz has.  How did he 
keep it out his beer stein?  Wonder if anyone on the list could grow one 
like that?
Gerry 


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Re: [MBZ] How much oil in A/C pump?

2007-10-04 Thread archer
I flushed an old Dodge and Mazda using a home made rig similar to the one in 
the Haynes A/C Manual which is available at Autozone.  The flushing solvent 
is also obtainable there.  I didn't have an air compressor then so I used a 
cheap pump-up garden sprayer to force the solvent through the hoses and 
parts.  I bought tubing and fittings to adapt the garden sprayer hose to the 
hose I attached to the condensor, evaporator, and hoses.  I pumped the 
solvent through the parts several times and then finished with clean 
solvent.  Both jobs turned out well.
Gerry
---
- Original Message - 
From: Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Can't help with your main question, but -- how do you go about
 flushing the lines?  Something I want to do to mine; I want to convert
 from 134a back to R12.
 Allan
 1983 300D
 1966 230

 archer [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 I have a new Harrison A/C compressor from Rusty ready to go in an '83 
 240D.
 A tag says oil must be added but does not say how much or in which port 
 it
 should be poured.

 There is no information on whether this is a Harrison R-4 (four 
 cylinder),
 A-6 (six cylinder), DA-6 (six cylinder), or V-5 (five cylinder) 
 compressor.
 According to the Haynes A/C manual, the amount of oil that should be 
 added
 to each type of compressor is varied.  The only ports this compressor has
 other than the hose ports is a plug held in by a snap ring and a brass 
 plug
 with a green center screwed into  the back of the compressor.  If someone
 (Rusty?) can tell me which Harrison compressor this is, I can figure out 
 the
 amount of oil necessary.  Six ounces seems to be the usual amount.

 I plan to flush the lines, evaporator, and condenser; and replace the 
 dryer.
 Haynes rule-of-thumb for adding oil to those components after flushing 
 is:
 Condenser-one ounce
 Dryer-one ounce
 evaporator-three ounces
 Harrison A-6, R-4, or V-5  Two ounces plus the number of ounces drained 
 from
 the old compressor.

 Does this sound right?

 Thanks,
 Gerry Archer
 '83 300D and 240D


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[MBZ] tips on replacing starter (needed)

2007-10-04 Thread Motikwa
Just ordered replacement starter for 300SD, and I cannot seem to find the  
job in manuals.  Anybody know what job or even group # for this project,  and 
especially any tips or thoughts from personal experience?
 
Thanks,
 
Steve



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Re: [MBZ] Stealer loose 32OCDI oil cap

2007-10-04 Thread Mitch Haley


wilton strickland wrote:
 
 Stealer left oil filler cap loose on my son's new 07 R320CDI coupla days
 ago.  Engine comp., vehicle underside and rear dripping oil when he got
 home!  Lucky, though, that he lost only ~ a quart.

Do they still have oil absorbent sound encapsulation panels like the W124?
If so, does the stealer want to replace the saturated panels? 
 Wilton
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-04 Thread archer
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 So, anybody electronical out there that's connected well enough
 to find some specs on a Chinese T2142 Dynamo Transistor?  All
 I really need right now is a pinout, and its basic characteristics.
 With any luck the one I have is still good, but using the Fluke to
 suss out the pins isn't working too well.  Assuming that it is
 NPN-ish with customary pinouts for the package gets me a schematic
 that is stupid.
 -- Jim
---
My 1991 15th Edition of the Phillips ECG Master Replacement Guide shows:
T-2122 and the next is T-2159.  I downloaded their 19th edition and found
that the T-2142 was not listed.

http://www.moyerelectronics.com/index.shtml?http://www.moyerelectronics.com/DownLoads/

However, the 16th, 17th, 18th editions could have listed and then dropped
it.  These may be available on the net or an engineering library might have
all the editions.  I suspect the Chinese number is in accordance with
Phillips/international protocols and information on it is available.
Good luck,
Gerry


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Re: [MBZ] tips on replacing starter (needed)

2007-10-04 Thread Zoltan Finks
Hi Steve,

I won't write too much, since my experience is only with the 4
cylinder diesel in my 240D, but I have a feeling the job may be
similar overall.

Basically I learned that the starter, once unbolted (and don't forget
to unbolt the wires), should be dropped out the bottom of the car,
rather than pulled out the top. After unbolting, the starter needs to
be rotated in order to allow it to slip down through the suspension.
And it helped a lot to turn the wheels all the way to one way or the
other - I forget which way.

Brian
83 240D
87 190D

On 10/4/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Just ordered replacement starter for 300SD, and I cannot seem to find the
 job in manuals.  Anybody know what job or even group # for this project,  and
 especially any tips or thoughts from personal experience?

 Thanks,

 Steve



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Re: [MBZ] Stealer loose 32OCDI oil cap

2007-10-04 Thread R A Bennell
Just rustproofing the undercarriage?

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of wilton strickland
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 12:21 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Stealer  loose 32OCDI oil cap


Stealer left oil filler cap loose on my son's new 07 R320CDI coupla days
ago.  Engine comp., vehicle underside and rear dripping oil when he got
home!  Lucky, though, that he lost only ~ a quart.

Wilton


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Re: [MBZ] PCI-express

2007-10-04 Thread Luther
I wouldn't expect you to know PCI-express from AGP!  :)

Luther

On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 12:16:13 -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin, work [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:

 I have no idea what you are talking about.

 ---
 Kaleb C. Striplin
 Cox Auto Trader
 730 FSBO Supervisor

 - Original Message -
 From: Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 12:00 PM
 Subject: [MBZ] PCI-express


 WOW, I'm so far behind in the technology wave that I don't have a clue
 what PCI-express is.  I've spent half the morning learning the tech
 advances of the last 2 1/2 years.

 Luther





-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (166 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine


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Re: [MBZ] PCI-express

2007-10-04 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin, work
Nope, have no clue

---
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Cox Auto Trader
730 FSBO Supervisor

- Original Message - 
From: Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 2:32 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] PCI-express


I wouldn't expect you to know PCI-express from AGP!  :)

 Luther

 On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 12:16:13 -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin, work 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I have no idea what you are talking about.

 ---
 Kaleb C. Striplin
 Cox Auto Trader
 730 FSBO Supervisor

 - Original Message -
 From: Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 12:00 PM
 Subject: [MBZ] PCI-express


 WOW, I'm so far behind in the technology wave that I don't have a clue
 what PCI-express is.  I've spent half the morning learning the tech
 advances of the last 2 1/2 years.

 Luther





 -- 
 Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
 '87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
 '85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
 '82 300CD (166 kmi)
 '82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
 '85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine


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Re: [MBZ] PCI-express

2007-10-04 Thread Euan

PCI-e supersedes PCI and is the latest alternative to AGP as the slot 
standard for video (and other?) cards in PCs. So today, when you're 
buying a video card for your PC, you have to check first whether your 
motherboard has PCI or PCI-e slots (if it's not an AGP model, that is). 
Only the later motherboards will be PCI-e. I think PCI-e is more 
advanced and faster.

That's all I know.

Euan
CHCH
NZ

 div class=moz-text-flowedWOW, I'm so far behind in the technology 
 wave that I don't have a clue what PCI-express is.  I've spent half 
 the morning learning the tech advances of the last 2 1/2 years.

 Luther



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Re: [MBZ] Daimler vs. Benz --

2007-10-04 Thread Loren Faeth
Haven't you heard of a mustache cup?  They were popular in the 1890s 
or so, when mustaches of that sort were in style.  I'm guessing the 
krauts had mustache steins.

At 12:22 PM 10/4/2007, you wrote:
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Do we care?
  http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/business/7027460.stm

Don't think I've ever seen anyone with a mustache like Benz has.  How did he
keep it out his beer stein?  Wonder if anyone on the list could grow one
like that?
Gerry


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Loren Faeth 


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Re: [MBZ] tips on replacing starter (needed)

2007-10-04 Thread JFreezn
 
In a message dated 10/4/2007 11:49:36 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Just  ordered replacement starter for 300SD, and I cannot seem to find the   
job in manuals.  Anybody know what job or even group # for this  project,  
and 
especially any tips or thoughts from personal  experience?



Steve,
 
For starters, I have no experience with the 126  chassis, so my input  is the 
earlier 116 chassis diesel.
Should be similar.
You are correct, I just went through my shop manual (78-80 300SD) and no  
mention of removing the starter.  I would start by removing the ground  cable, 
then the air cleaner assy.  You can then reach down and remove the  big cable 
nut (13mm) with two wires, and the small cable nut (8mm) with one  wire.  You 
almost have to do this by feel but you must remove them first as  there will be 
too much stress if you hang the starter by these cables.  
 
Most diesel starters (very heavy) have a small 90 degree bracket that  
supports the front end of the starter (10mm wrench/socket).  You must  remove 
the 
bracket to allow the starter to move forward.  (Note the coolant  drain plug in 
the block, just forward of the starter.  If you ever plan to  remove this plug 
(17 or 19mm hex) for coolant service later on, now, when the  starter is 
removed is the time to break this sucker loose and then coat it with  
antisieze).
The two big starter mounting bolts that pass through the bell housing into  
the starter are internal hex of 10mm, I think.  I use about 30 inches of  1/2 
extentions and a breaker bar to go in over the back of the transmission and  
onto these bolts.  ONE of our listers claims he can reach down over the  fender 
and break these bolts loose using a stubby hex and a long box  wrench!  In my 
prime, I never could imagine doing that!
NOTE:
Use brake cleaner to rid the hex sockets (and your tool) of any dirt and  
grease.  You must have a good connection to brake these loose and you don't  
want 
to round one out.  Wear heavy gloves cause when these break loose, you  will 
likely bash into something.  Raising up the car enough to swing a half  inch 
drive breaker bar is almost a must for proper leverage.  
 
At to the starter, I prefer one with a Bosch solenoid.  Good amperage  flow 
is a must with a diesel and some of the after market solenoids are not up  to 
the task.  Then compare the length of the new starter with your old  one.  If 
you get one that is shorter, send it back, you need all the power  that a heavy 
duty starter can provide.  And the bracket will fit.  
 
Also, if the starter has a heat shield on it, put it back.  Hot soaked  
starters are prone to hang up until they cool off again. Maybe that is the  
reason 
you are changing this starter!?  
 
Finally, if your motor mounts have sagged, you may not have room to jockey  
the starter out of the car. You might have to jack the engine up a little.   I 
have been able to both lift the starter up through the engine compartment, and 
 take it out down below.  As one lister mentioned turning the steering full  
lock will let you clear the idler arm.
 
Good luck,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles 
98 ML 320, 152 K  miles




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Re: [MBZ] PCI-express

2007-10-04 Thread Luther
PCI-e can transfer data at upto 4GB/s.  PCI was about 100-133MB/s.

Luther

On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 15:55:06 -0500, Euan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 PCI-e supersedes PCI and is the latest alternative to AGP as the slot
 standard for video (and other?) cards in PCs. So today, when you're
 buying a video card for your PC, you have to check first whether your
 motherboard has PCI or PCI-e slots (if it's not an AGP model, that is).
 Only the later motherboards will be PCI-e. I think PCI-e is more
 advanced and faster.

 That's all I know.

 Euan
 CHCH
 NZ

 div class=moz-text-flowedWOW, I'm so far behind in the technology
 wave that I don't have a clue what PCI-express is.  I've spent half
 the morning learning the tech advances of the last 2 1/2 years.

 Luther



-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (166 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

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Re: [MBZ] PCI-express

2007-10-04 Thread Wonko the Sane
However, it is still the same speed as PCI when rendering bacon fat.

On 10/4/07, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 You can render your netporn much faster!

 --R

 Luther wrote:
  PCI-e can transfer data at upto 4GB/s.  PCI was about 100-133MB/s.
 
  Luther




-- 
LT Don
http://don.homelinux.net/~don/
Proudly marching to the beat of a different kettle of fish.

Make a small loan, Make a big difference - Kiva.org
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Re: [MBZ] PCI-express

2007-10-04 Thread Rich Thomas
You can render your netporn much faster!

--R

Luther wrote:
 PCI-e can transfer data at upto 4GB/s.  PCI was about 100-133MB/s.

 Luther

   


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Re: [MBZ] PCI-express

2007-10-04 Thread Luther
 From what I read, it can handle 16 streams at the same time.

Luther

On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 16:04:09 -0500, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Oh man, PCIe ROCKS!!!

 Several times faster than AGP so its great for highpowered video cards.
 It can also be used for lots of other things like SCSI cards which will be a 
 big boon to people trying to edit uncompressed HD video.
 In the past its been very easy to exceed the amount of data the PCI bus can 
 handle by attempting to run more than 2 streams of uncompressed HD at the 
 same time. PCIe should be able to support 3 or 4.

 -Curt




-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (166 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

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Re: [MBZ] Daimler vs. Benz --

2007-10-04 Thread archer
I forgot about mustache cups.  I'd like to see one of us grow a Benz 
mustache and post the picture.
Gerry
-

 Haven't you heard of a mustache cup?  They were popular in the 1890s
 or so, when mustaches of that sort were in style.  I'm guessing the
 krauts had mustache steins.

 At 12:22 PM 10/4/2007, you wrote:
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Do we care?
  http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/business/7027460.stm

Don't think I've ever seen anyone with a mustache like Benz has.  How did 
he
keep it out his beer stein?  Wonder if anyone on the list could grow one
like that?
Gerry


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 Loren Faeth


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Re: [MBZ] tips on replacing starter (needed)

2007-10-04 Thread Loren Faeth
ONE of our listers claims he can reach down over the  fender
and break these bolts loose using a stubby hex and a long box  wrench!  In my
prime, I never could imagine doing that!

I almost never go over the trans with extensions.  On cars with hex 
bolts, I turn an offset box wrench backwards, so the bosy of the 
wrench is forward of the firewall, and take them out. For the 10mm 
allen head bolts, I put a short 10MM socket on my floppy 3/8 drive 
rachet and take them out with it.

I  guess I am the second on the list.  But the factory manual says to 
go over the trans.

Loren


At 03:19 PM 10/4/2007, you wrote:

In a message dated 10/4/2007 11:49:36 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Just  ordered replacement starter for 300SD, and I cannot seem to find the
job in manuals.  Anybody know what job or even group # for this  project,
and
especially any tips or thoughts from personal  experience?



Steve,

For starters, I have no experience with the 126  chassis, so my input  is the
earlier 116 chassis diesel.
Should be similar.
You are correct, I just went through my shop manual (78-80 300SD) and no
mention of removing the starter.  I would start by removing the 
ground  cable,
then the air cleaner assy.  You can then reach down and remove the  big cable
nut (13mm) with two wires, and the small cable nut (8mm) with one  wire.  You
almost have to do this by feel but you must remove them first 
as  there will be
too much stress if you hang the starter by these cables.

Most diesel starters (very heavy) have a small 90 degree bracket that
supports the front end of the starter (10mm wrench/socket).  You 
must  remove the
bracket to allow the starter to move forward.  (Note the 
coolant  drain plug in
the block, just forward of the starter.  If you ever plan to  remove 
this plug
(17 or 19mm hex) for coolant service later on, now, when the  starter is
removed is the time to break this sucker loose and then coat it 
with  antisieze).
The two big starter mounting bolts that pass through the bell housing into
the starter are internal hex of 10mm, I think.  I use about 30 
inches of  1/2
extentions and a breaker bar to go in over the back of the transmission and
onto these bolts.  ONE of our listers claims he can reach down over 
the  fender
and break these bolts loose using a stubby hex and a long box  wrench!  In my
prime, I never could imagine doing that!
NOTE:
Use brake cleaner to rid the hex sockets (and your tool) of any dirt and
grease.  You must have a good connection to brake these loose and 
you don't  want
to round one out.  Wear heavy gloves cause when these break loose, you  will
likely bash into something.  Raising up the car enough to swing a half  inch
drive breaker bar is almost a must for proper leverage.

At to the starter, I prefer one with a Bosch solenoid.  Good amperage  flow
is a must with a diesel and some of the after market solenoids are not up  to
the task.  Then compare the length of the new starter with your old  one.  If
you get one that is shorter, send it back, you need all the 
power  that a heavy
duty starter can provide.  And the bracket will fit.

Also, if the starter has a heat shield on it, put it back.  Hot soaked
starters are prone to hang up until they cool off again. Maybe that 
is the  reason
you are changing this starter!?

Finally, if your motor mounts have sagged, you may not have room to jockey
the starter out of the car. You might have to jack the engine up a 
little.   I
have been able to both lift the starter up through the engine 
compartment, and
  take it out down below.  As one lister mentioned turning the steering full
lock will let you clear the idler arm.

Good luck,

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles
98 ML 320, 152 K  miles




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Loren Faeth 


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Re: [MBZ] PCI-express

2007-10-04 Thread Curt Raymond

Oh man, PCIe ROCKS!!!

Several times faster than AGP so its great for highpowered video cards.
It can also be used for lots of other things like SCSI cards which will be a 
big boon to people trying to edit uncompressed HD video.
In the past its been very easy to exceed the amount of data the PCI bus can 
handle by attempting to run more than 2 streams of uncompressed HD at the same 
time. PCIe should be able to support 3 or 4.

-Curt

Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2007 12:00:08 -0500
From: Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] PCI-express
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; delsp=yes;
 charset=iso-8859-15

WOW, I'm so far behind in the technology wave that I don't have a clue
  
what PCI-express is.  I've spent half the morning learning the tech  
advances of the last 2 1/2 years.

Luther

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Re: [MBZ] tips on replacing starter (needed)PULL those bolts!

2007-10-04 Thread JFreezn
 
In a message dated 10/4/2007 2:16:58 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

ONE of  our listers claims he can reach down over the  fender
and break these  bolts loose using a stubby hex and a long box  wrench!  In  
my
prime, I never could imagine doing that!

I almost never go over  the trans with extensions.  On cars with hex 
bolts, I turn an offset  box wrench backwards, so the bosy of the 
wrench is forward of the  firewall, and take them out. For the 10mm 
allen head bolts, I put a short  10MM socket on my floppy 3/8 drive 
rachet and take them out with  it.

I  guess I am the second on the list.  But the factory  manual says to 
go over the trans.



Loren
 
Take the credit--you are the man!  Do you milk cows by hand--what is  the 
secret to your arm strength?
 
Jim in Phoenix



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Re: [MBZ] PCI-express

2007-10-04 Thread Curt Raymond

Thats a loaded statement...
Your other statement that PCI is 100-133MB/s is wrong too, its 100 or 133Mhz
I have to check on what the actual maximum is but I know from experience you 
can do 300MB/s because thats 2 streams of uncompressed 1080i video.
According to Wiki (which of course we know is not automatically correct)
its 1.06GB/s. Thats between the processor and peripherals so theres 
presumably considerable overhead. As I say I really worked at it at one point 
and we never were able to get more than ~320MB/s off SCSI drives even with 2 
dual port Ultra 320 controllers with 28 drives.

PCIe, according to Wiki  is 8GB/s so 8 times the theoretical max of PCI-X. I've 
heard of people (granted I've never seen it myself) using a PCIe dual channel 
SCSI controller and 14 drives and getting better than 400MB/s. At that point I 
think the drives are the slow factor.

-Curt

Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2007 16:07:37 -0500
From: Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] PCI-express
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-15

 From what I read, it can handle 16 streams at the same time.

Luther

On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 16:04:09 -0500, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:


 Oh man, PCIe ROCKS!!!

 Several times faster than AGP so its great for highpowered video
 cards.
 It can also be used for lots of other things like SCSI cards which
 will be a big boon to people trying to edit uncompressed HD video.
 In the past its been very easy to exceed the amount of data the PCI
 bus can handle by attempting to run more than 2 streams of uncompressed
 HD at the same time. PCIe should be able to support 3 or 4.

 -Curt




-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (166 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

   
-
Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. 
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[MBZ] R4 compressor oil feed discussion, 3 pictures attached (about 120KB)

2007-10-04 Thread JFreezn
Note the raised boss on the bearing cover which denotes the oil feed  passage 
down to the front seal.  the X should mark this location but some  
compressors did not have an X at all.  
 
You are in good shape if the clutch coil spade connectors are in line with  
the X as I believe most properly installed compressors have the coil spades  
facing up.  
 
Regards,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles 
98 ML 320, 152 K  miles




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Re: [MBZ] tips on replacing starter

2007-10-04 Thread David Bruckmann
Don't forget to disconnect the battery before starting. The heavy positive lead 
to the starter is live all the time; you don't want that to short against the 
block etc!

D.


--

Message: 5
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 14:48:18 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] tips on replacing starter (needed)
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

Just ordered replacement starter for 300SD, and I cannot seem to find the  
job in manuals.  Anybody know what job or even group # for this project,  and 
especially any tips or thoughts from personal experience?
 
Thanks,
 
Steve


-- 


David Bruckmann
Systems Leader,
North American Outsourcing Development  US Operations
Transcontinental Printing - Newspaper Group
Suite 219, 47102 Mission Falls Ct., Fremont, CA 94539
Tel +1 510-440-0198 Fax +1 510-440-0100 Cell +1 510-579-9920


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[MBZ] tips on replacing starter (needed)

2007-10-04 Thread Glenn Brown
Steve,
I also have not worked on an SD but did change the starter on my '84 300D a
couple years ago and my experience was very similar to that elucidated by J.
Friesen as my extensions reached back to about the center of the driveshaft
in order to get proper fit and torque with a breaker bar.  I had also tried
a stubby 10mm and reaching from above, but there was no way to get enough
torque in the confined space to break things loose.  Once these two allen
head bolts are disconnected you can remove the starter from below when
you've previously turned the steering wheel all the way to the right to
avoid things.  Good luck, my garage got quite colorful when I did this
job.

G. M. Brown
Brevard, NC
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[MBZ] a car for luther

2007-10-04 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
http://fortsmith.craigslist.org/car/439425067.html
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 94 E320, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
  91 300D, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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[MBZ] a car for lt don

2007-10-04 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
http://siouxcity.craigslist.org/car/435437811.html
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 94 E320, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
  91 300D, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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[MBZ] Tips on replacing starter

2007-10-04 Thread Dan Weeks
I have a 82 300SD, and what Brian and Jim say jibes with my memory.  
Getting the car up off the ground, having a long extension and  
perhaps a breaker bar are essential, as is cleaning out the internal  
hex bolts. Other than that, no big deal.

Dan

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[MBZ] '77 280SEL

2007-10-04 Thread Curt Raymond
Listers,

Found a '77 280SEL on Craigslist. Picture looks like the 116 chassis which is 
my favorite and convieniently the wife likes 'em too.
Any opinions on the 280? How much gas are we really talking about here?
The ad reads 
 Classic Mercedes, well maintained summer car, new tires and stereo, car is 
tight, high miles. 
 1500 Or Best Offer

-Curt

   
-
Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story.
 Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games. 
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Re: [MBZ] '77 280SEL

2007-10-04 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Well, its going to suck as much, if not more, gas than a 450SEL yet have 
quite a bit less power.  Unleess this car is perfect, with no rust, good 
paint, good interior, and everything worked it might be worth that much. 
  Other wise its worth $500 or less.

Curt Raymond wrote:
 Listers,
 
 Found a '77 280SEL on Craigslist. Picture looks like the 116 chassis which is 
 my favorite and convieniently the wife likes 'em too.
 Any opinions on the 280? How much gas are we really talking about here?
 The ad reads 
  Classic Mercedes, well maintained summer car, new tires and stereo, car is 
 tight, high miles. 
  1500 Or Best Offer
 
 -Curt
 

 -
 Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story.
  Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games. 
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 94 E320, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
  91 300D, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] '77 280SEL

2007-10-04 Thread Tom Hargrave
The 280 is a double overhead cam 6 cylinder with a hemispherical combustion
chamber. Mercedes went to the design to overcome the loss in horsepower
caused by the Federal Government emission regulations  drop in compression
ratio. I've owned three, one 1975 carbureted and 2 1979 FI models.

The engines run well but they suffer from oil leaks around the cam carrier 
the leaks are a royal pain to correct, involving the removal of the upper,
then the cam lower carrier to replace the gasket between the lower carrier
and the head. This also involves removing the gears from the front of the
cams before pulling the lower carrier. Fortunately, you just tie the chain
to the gears with wire ties  everything lines back up during re-assembly.

Also, both of mine needed at least mid-grade gas to not diesel when turned
off. I believe that overall, they are good engines.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 8:48 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: [MBZ] '77 280SEL

Listers,

Found a '77 280SEL on Craigslist. Picture looks like the 116 chassis which
is my favorite and convieniently the wife likes 'em too.
Any opinions on the 280? How much gas are we really talking about here?
The ad reads 
 Classic Mercedes, well maintained summer car, new tires and stereo, car is
tight, high miles. 
 1500 Or Best Offer

-Curt

   
-
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 Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games. 
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[MBZ] CAUTION!!! Re: tips on replacing starter (needed)

2007-10-04 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Thu, 4 Oct 2007 16:19:47 EDT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I would start by removing the ground cable, then the air cleaner assy. 

CAUTION: Remove the ground cable to the negative terminal of the battery
 first!


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] '77 280SEL

2007-10-04 Thread Steve MacSween
on 10/4/07 21:47, Curt Raymond at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Any opinions on the 280? How much gas are we really talking about here?

In my experience many wrenches dislike that motor, most of all in North
American form. Having driven one in Euro spec (with a stick in a 116, no
less) I can attest to its being really nice in the Old World spec.

No matter what the vendor says about the body condition, be scrupulous when
looking at a 116. They rot, not as bad as the 108s, but once it starts it
can gallop (depending on where the car is from, of course).

If you want a 116 gasser there really is no such thing as a fuel-efficient
option. If this car is the real deal (clued-in owner, sheaf of bills from a
decent shop, etc.) then by all means go for it.

I love the 116, and I miss mine.

-- 
Mac
Steve MacSween
Aylmer, Quebec (Canada)
Mercedes: '82 300sd / '82 240d (x2) / '60 220s



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Re: [MBZ] PCI-express

2007-10-04 Thread Steve MacSween
Whew well now I feel a whole lot better. I don't understand half the new
stuff but usually I've at least HEARD of it

Mac

on 10/4/07 13:16, Kaleb C. Striplin, work at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I have no idea what you are talking about.
 
 ---
 Kaleb C. Striplin
 Cox Auto Trader
 730 FSBO Supervisor
 
 - Original Message -
 From: Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 12:00 PM
 Subject: [MBZ] PCI-express
 
 
 WOW, I'm so far behind in the technology wave that I don't have a clue
 what PCI-express is.  I've spent half the morning learning the tech
 advances of the last 2 1/2 years.
 
 Luther



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Re: [MBZ] '77 280SEL

2007-10-04 Thread Michael Baker
When my wife's 78 280SE was totaled it was like losing a family 
member. If you don't buy it, I will. Where is it by the way?
Michael

At 07:12 PM 10/4/2007, you wrote:
The 280 is a double overhead cam 6 cylinder with a hemispherical combustion
chamber. Mercedes went to the design to overcome the loss in horsepower
caused by the Federal Government emission regulations  drop in compression
ratio. I've owned three, one 1975 carbureted and 2 1979 FI models.

The engines run well but they suffer from oil leaks around the cam carrier 
the leaks are a royal pain to correct, involving the removal of the upper,
then the cam lower carrier to replace the gasket between the lower carrier
and the head. This also involves removing the gears from the front of the
cams before pulling the lower carrier. Fortunately, you just tie the chain
to the gears with wire ties  everything lines back up during re-assembly.

Also, both of mine needed at least mid-grade gas to not diesel when turned
off. I believe that overall, they are good engines.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 8:48 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: [MBZ] '77 280SEL

Listers,

Found a '77 280SEL on Craigslist. Picture looks like the 116 chassis which
is my favorite and convieniently the wife likes 'em too.
Any opinions on the 280? How much gas are we really talking about here?
The ad reads 
  Classic Mercedes, well maintained summer car, new tires and stereo, car is
tight, high miles.
  1500 Or Best Offer

-Curt


-
Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story.
  Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.
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Michael Baker
Marketing Consulting  Communications
P. O. Box 1615
Running Springs, CA 92382-1615
909-867-5960
www.idm-marketing.com 


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Re: [MBZ] '77 280SEL

2007-10-04 Thread Mitch Haley


Was there a 6 cyl SEL, or would this be a SE?

BTW, according to my insurance company, I own a 1986 190 DSL (that's the
2.3-16, not the 190D, as the serial number comes up on Farm Bureau's
computer)

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Re: [MBZ] '77 280SEL

2007-10-04 Thread Tom Hargrave
The 6 cylinder 280 SEL was not sold in this country by Mercedes but there
are quite a few grey market cars around. They look much nicer than the USA
spec'd model because the bumpers actually look normal on the car.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Mitch Haley
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 10:21 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '77 280SEL



Was there a 6 cyl SEL, or would this be a SE?

BTW, according to my insurance company, I own a 1986 190 DSL (that's the
2.3-16, not the 190D, as the serial number comes up on Farm Bureau's
computer)

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-04 Thread Jim Cathey
Thanks, guys!  I was only finding places that I needed to
be a paid subscriber to, don't know how I missed alldata.

The part resembles what I originally thought it was.  So
I don't yet understand the circuit, more thought required.

FYI, that T2142 looks an awful lot like it might work as
a replacement pass element in the early-80's ignition box.
Not a physical fit, mind you, but something that could
perhaps be made to work anyway.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Daimler vs. Benz --

2007-10-04 Thread Redghost
I have one.  Use it as often as I do not want too feel like straining  
stuff through the baleen

clay

On 4 Oct 2007, at 12:48, Loren Faeth wrote:

 Haven't you heard of a mustache cup?  They were popular in the 1890s
 or so, when mustaches of that sort were in style.  I'm guessing the
 krauts had mustache steins.

 At 12:22 PM 10/4/2007, you wrote:
 From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Do we care?
 http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/business/7027460.stm
 
 Don't think I've ever seen anyone with a mustache like Benz has.   
 How did he
 keep it out his beer stein?  Wonder if anyone on the list could  
 grow one
 like that?
 Gerry


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 Loren Faeth


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Re: [MBZ] R4 compressor oil feed discussion, 3 pictures attached (about 120KB)

2007-10-04 Thread JFreezn
 
In a message dated 10/4/2007 3:09:22 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Note the  raised boss on the bearing cover which denotes the oil feed  
passage  
down to the front seal.  the X should mark this location but  some  
compressors did not have an X at all.  

You are in  good shape if the clutch coil spade connectors are in line with  
the  X as I believe most properly installed compressors have the coil spades  
 
facing up.  



WOW!  I am not sure why a 40  meg  picture ends up the size  of a postage 
stamp.  What can we do to fix this obvious shortcoming on our  list.  A good 
picture IS worth a thousand words.  These  were good when I sent them to the 
list. 
 Is this AOL's  fault?  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles 
98 ML 320, 152 K  miles




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Re: [MBZ] CAUTION!!! Re: tips on replacing starter /ground = negative

2007-10-04 Thread JFreezn
 
In a message dated 10/4/2007 8:12:54 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I would  start by removing the ground cable, then the air cleaner assy.  

CAUTION: Remove the ground cable to the negative terminal of the  battery
first!



Yes, Craig, I was thinking I should restate my instruction to remove the  
ground cable, which in my mind is the negative ground cable at the  battery.   
In 
addition,  do not forget to replace the engine  to frame grounding cable, 
which often uses one of the starter bolts at the  engine end.  You can smoke a 
lot of small wires trying to start the engine  without this connecting cable, 
which may or may not use the starter bolt.  
 
NOTE:  A little electrical 101--you always disconnect the negative  cable 
first because it is a chassis ground and should your wrench contact the  metal 
of 
the chassis while touching the negative bolt, no sparks will  occur.  Many a 
wrench has been sacrificed to the Gods of Potential Energy  by swinging on the 
positive bolt first!  Conversely, when hooking up both  posts of a battery, 
you would hook the positive up first since a careless touch  will be of no 
consequence if the negative is not hooked up yet
 
Thanks,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles 
98 ML 320, 152 K  miles




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