Re: [MBZ] question for people who know about music

[Jim Cathey]

> Bt, wrong!  A modern trumpet IS 4.5 feet long.

I meant in linear dimension, not pipe length.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] question for people who know about music

[Luther]

It's based on the physics of a wave and it's harmonics.  You have the 
fundamental pitch (rarely played), then one octave above that, (or double 
frequency) then a fifth higher (about 3 times the fundamental freq), then a 
fourth higher (or 4 times the fundamental freq), then a third higher (or about 
5 times), etc.  The pitches work out to C, G, C, E, G, B-flat, C, D, E, and so 
on up the scale as physical ability limits.  The higher you go, the faster the 
airstream has to be.  

Luther  

-Original Message-
From: Gary Hurst <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2008 10:33 PM
To: Banned List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Mercedes Discussion List 

Subject: [Banned] question for people who know about music

a post horn is a this valveless POS that is harder than hell to play.  the
posthorn gallop seems to always be played on some very expensive long thin
valved trumpet thing.   what gives here?
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Re: [MBZ] question for people who know about music

[Luther]

Bt, wrong!  A modern trumpet IS 4.5 feet long.  The trombone is 9 feet long.

Luther, 18 year trumpet veteran

-Original Message-
From: Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 12:00 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] question for people who know about music

> a post horn is a this valveless POS that is harder than hell to play.  
> the
> posthorn gallop seems to always be played on some very expensive long 
> thin
> valved trumpet thing.   what gives here?

I believe they're called heraldic trumpets.  Entirely normal,
except that they're not coiled up.  Shows that even trumpet
players aren't stupid!

They're roughly 3x the length of the normal trumpet, and are
used for show.  Otherwise nobody would put up with their
awkwardness.

There are usually many reasons why modern instruments are
modern, and obsolete ones are obsolete.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Timing chain problem

[Archer]

From: "LarryT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> My experience is on a 240D - but they are pretty similar -
>
> Set the crank on TDC and the cam to it's TDC mark also - the trick is
> keeping the IP drive turning with the crank while you do all this. The 
> case
> of the engine is pretty snug against the IP drive preventing the TC from
> jumping a IP drive tooth but a little slack and the chain can drop off the
> bottom of the crank gear/
>
> Once the crank and cam and both at TDC things should be easy to align and 
> to
> feed the chain.
> If by chance (doubtful tho) the IP gets a tooth offf you'll have to pull 
> it
> out somewhat - back toward the driver - then set the crank to the proper
> position (check before removing the IP) then find the punch marks on the 
> IP
> and reinstall it.
> But its doubtful the chain cam off the IP drive.
> Have fun -
> Larry T (66 MGB, 74 911, 91 300D)
--
The chain probably dropped off the bottom of the crank gear since the chain 
coming out of the engine on the right wasn't very tight.  The problem is 
that I can't turn the engine because the valves are off time.  Hopefully I 
can try different positions of the cam sprocket and get the crank and the 
cam aligned.
Thanks,
Gerry



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Re: [MBZ] Timing chain problem

[Archer]

> Archer wrote:
>> No, it goes over the engine at a sharp angle and the chain stays in 
>> contact
>> with the cam.
>
> The chain you're feeding in needs to keep the cam in time.
> The chain that's coming out needs to stay tight or it can jam.
> Are you doing both of these things?
> Some guys will go as far as to string the outfeed to the ceiling under 
> tension,
> and tie the infeed to the cam, stopping every cam sprocket hole to untie 
> it from
> one hole and tie to another hole.

Both ends are hooked to nylon cord which goes to pulleys in the ceiling at 
an angle that keeps the chain engaged with the camshaft sprocket.  I think 
the mistake was in not using heavy enough weights.
Thanks,
Gerry 


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Re: [MBZ] Timing chain problem/ my comment

[Archer]

Thanks, Jim.  I'll try backing the cam up.  I'm afraid the chain dropped off 
the crankshaft sprocket which probably means I'll have to do the whole thing 
from scratch.
Gerry

From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> It is very hard to get the timing out of wack between the crankshaft
> and the injection pump!  This, because the chain is held in contact
> with the IP timing gear with a screw ( that you can see penetrating the
> housing bulge on the driver's side), and the very small clearance where
> the chain goes around the crank gear.   The camshaft can easily be put
> back in time by matching up the timing marks on the crank and the cam
> when you get the new chain in.  As mentioned, if the cam is more than
> two teeth off you will experience valve contact with a piston.  Not to
> worry, just back the cam up two teeth and you should be able to
> continue.
>
> NOTE:  I used a bungee cord fastened overhead to pull the old chain
> out.  Just stretch and rehook every foot or so.
>
> Therefore, pull both both ends of the chain tight and continue with the
> install of the new chain.  You have at least a 95% chance of success.
> When you get both ends of the new chain visible you can hook both ends
> together over the cam gear.
>
> If you are able to turn the engine, get it to the TDC mark on the
> crankshaft.  Then verfiy the timing marks have lined up  on the
> camshaft.  You may have to remove the cam gear to correct this,
> hopefully it is out only 1 or two teeth.
>
> With both sets of the factory timing marks aligned, at TDC, and the
> tensioner reinstalled, you should be able check for mechanical
> interference by turning the engine over manually through at least two
> revolutions.
> both sets of timing marks should now line up each TWO revolutions.
> ALways rotate the engine in a direction that would tighten the
> crankshaft nut!
> Start it up!
> Jim in Phoenix

> From: Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> Archer wrote:
>> No, it goes over the engine at a sharp angle and the chain stays in 
>> contact with the cam.

> The chain you're feeding in needs to keep the cam in time.
> The chain that's coming out needs to stay tight or it can jam.
> Are you doing both of these things?
> Some guys will go as far as to string the outfeed to the ceiling under
> tension,
> and tie the infeed to the cam, stopping every cam sprocket hole to
> untie it from
> one hole and tie to another hole.
> ___


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Re: [MBZ] Timing chain problem

[Archer]

 Jim wrote:
>> > The ends of the chains have nylon cords attached which go
>> > through pulleys in the ceiling and have heavy weights
>> > hanging on them to keep the chain ends tight.
>>
>> This sounds fine for the tensioner side, but the other side
>> needs to remain at normal tautness _around_ the cam sprocket
>> in order to keep the engine perfectly in time as you feed the
>> chain.  I don't see how the ceiling rig would keep the
>> camshaft in time too, doesn't it want to pull the chain
>> largely away from the cam sprocket?.
>> -- Jim
>
> When I did mine, I built a wooden chain guide that made it
> fairly easy to keep the old and new chain engaged with the cam
> sprocket. I'm attaching a photo to the email.
> --   Philip
 
http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20080712/5cd8b310/attachment.jpg
 ___Thanks, Phillip.  I'll make one of 
those when the other MB needs a newchain.Nice pictures.Gerry

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[MBZ] 300td deerslayer

[Rick Hawkins Java]

Folks,

My 1982 300TD and i met a deer, essentially in downtown Washington,  
Georgia. It was about dusk. It took out the headlight doors  
(surrounds), the grill, bowed the a/c condensor and pressed the  
radiator into the fan. And knocked the belt off the p. steering too.

I was only going maybe 30 or 40 mph if that.

The large doe, i think, did a flip and hopefully died in the ditch.

I turned up a dead end side road and there was a georgia state patrol  
man hiding.

He was friendly and amazed when he realized that i was going to pull  
everything out and continue on my trip.

He even gave me a hand and pulled on the bent radiator support with me

Anyway, I pulled it out and the holes in the radiator were only about  
1/3 of the way down, so  i was able to make Tybee Island with a  
number of water fillups. It was a nite trip so it was fairly cool. No  
overheating.

So, here's what i need.

Grill complete from 300D (decent looking with installation bolts if  
possible

most important I need a radiator for 1982 300TD (i assume the 300D is  
the same)

mine is a behr and has oil cooler (removable on the side ) and  
transmission lines attach to the bottom

please contact me off list [EMAIL PROTECTED]  if you have any of this




thanks,

xx rick
Rick Hawkins

www.javaphoto.com
www.javacycles.com
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Re: [MBZ] 1993 Mercedes-Benz 300-Series 93 300D 2.5T

[Dwight E. Giles, Jr]

IMHO-it is probably worth close to that-I know we are all bottom feeders-
-but a friend of mine sold a 91 here recently with 80K miles for 14,500 and
had people waiting in line if the deal fell through.  
FWIW
Dwight 

Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
1978 240D 4 speed. 218K miles.  
1979 240D- auto -250K + miles. (SOLD). 
1990 300D 2.5t 160K miles.
Wickford, RI

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 1:38 PM
To: mercedes
Subject: [MBZ] 1993 Mercedes-Benz 300-Series 93 300D 2.5T

Only 9,600 Carfax Certified One Owner Miles

Possibly The Nicest One In The World

Rare And Desirable! 
Just Serviced and Inspected


And at $16,766.99 now ...


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] a 420SEL turbodiesel

[Craig McCluskey]

On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 23:11:29 -0400 "Wonko the Sane" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> Shirley you jest.

Ptbtbtbtbtbbtbtbtbtbtbtbbtbtbtbt!


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] a 420SEL turbodiesel

[Wonko the Sane]

You'd better unload these 20 mpg vehicles before gas prices rise any more --
and start concentrating on the 190Ds.

On Sat, Jul 12, 2008 at 9:41 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> hahahahahahahahahahahaha
>
> Wonko the Sane wrote:
> > I will give you $2K, after I get paid for my Quantum. Delivered.
> >
> > On Sat, Jul 12, 2008 at 8:43 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> I think you should buy your wife my nice E420
> >>
> >> Craig McCluskey wrote:
> >>> On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 19:21:23 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin"
> >>> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >>>
> >>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-DIESEL-SEL-BENZ_W0QQitemZ140247161892QQihZ004QQcategoryZ6330QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
> >>> I saw that this morning and thought of posting it to the list, but
> >> didn't.
> >>>
> >>> Craig
> >>>
> >>> ___
> >>> http://www.okiebenz.com
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> >>>
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> >>>
> >>> No virus found in this incoming message.
> >>> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> >>> Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.4.7/1546 - Release Date:
> 7/11/2008
> >> 6:47 AM
> >>>
> >>>
> >> --
> >> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> >>  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
> >>  89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
> >>  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
> >>  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >>
> >> ___
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> >> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >>
> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
>  89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
>  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
>  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
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-- 
LT Don
http://don.homelinux.net/~don/

apt-get update
apt-get upgrade
The following packages will be replaced
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Re: [MBZ] a 420SEL turbodiesel

[Wonko the Sane]

Shirley you jest.

On Sat, Jul 12, 2008 at 11:07 PM, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 20:40:54 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin"
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > BIN is 54 something or other.  If a list person wanted it I would take
> > 5k
>
> Well, golly, your Craig's list ad says $4995.   :-)
>
> I'll have to talk with Shirley about it.
>
>
> Craig
>
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Re: [MBZ] Another cheap 300TD

[Dwight E. Giles, Jr]

Well, Curt you might be right about the rust, but 'The Vineyard" is not the
same as Isle au haut in terms of cars in general.. 
Dwight 

Star Motors and Shellfish Co.

“Shucking but no Jiving”

Dwight Giles, Jr

Bissell Cove

Wickford RI 02852


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 10:11 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List; andrew strasfogel
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Another cheap 300TD

Its an island car, I know all I need to.

One time some friends when to Isle au Haut and rented (ready for this?) a VW
Thing. This would have been '95 or so, the last Things were made in '74...
It had no brakes, 1 working headlight, 1 working tail light and 1 working
dash light which IIRC was the high beam indicator although the high beams
didn't work.
None of the seats were attached to the body by anything other than gravity.
One tire went flat every night and there weren't any doors.
Since its a manual trans with reduction boxes stopping was no big deal, they
never got above 3rd gear anyway which was good because nobody could find
4th...

That was the BEST car that could be rented that month on the island and was
in high demand. None of the other rentals would run reliably...

Geez, I hadn't thought about that for years.

-Curt

--- On Sat, 7/12/08, andrew strasfogel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
From: andrew strasfogel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Another cheap 300TD
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Date: Saturday, July 12, 2008, 9:56 PM

He doesn't say anything about rust, or about  its service history.  What
 about the interior?  it's a complete unknown.

On Sat, Jul 12, 2008 at 9:26 PM, Curt Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

The pictures make it hard to see the inevitable island car rust...



-Curt



Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2008 09:00:12 -0400

From: "Dwight E. Giles, Jr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Subject: [MBZ] Another cheap 300TD

To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 

Message-ID:

    <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="us-ascii"



http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/car/750695126.html







Has been on Boston CL before-once seller offered to bring car off island,

maybe even to Boston.



No interest, etc.







Dwight E. Giles, Jr.



1978 240D 4 speed. 218K miles. 



1979 240D- auto -250K + miles. (SOLD).



1990 300D 2.5t 160K miles.



Wickford, RI







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Re: [MBZ] a 420SEL turbodiesel

[Craig McCluskey]

On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 20:40:54 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> BIN is 54 something or other.  If a list person wanted it I would take
> 5k

Well, golly, your Craig's list ad says $4995.   :-)

I'll have to talk with Shirley about it.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Door locks: DONE

[Curt Raymond]

BTW any time I felt "well thats good enough" while doing this I thought of 
Wilton who packed the door handles in pages of airplane classified ads, and 
thought "would this be acceptable on his car?" then I kept cleaning and 
adjusting until everything worked PERFECTLY without any hint of binding. All in 
all it probably took me 2 1/2 hours. Most of which was spend wire brushing the 
wafers.

-Curt

--- On Sat, 7/12/08, Wilton Strickland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
From: Wilton Strickland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Door locks: DONE
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Date: Saturday, July 12, 2008, 12:26 PM

'Zackly what I thought.  I vaguely remember that I had the tumblers out of a
123 cylinder years ago and that they came out very easily.  'Had no doubt
that you'd be able to "make up" a good assembly.  BTW, remind me,
are the
tumblers pins or wafers?

'Glad you were able to do it.

Wilton

- Original Message -
From: "Curt Raymond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Diesel List" 
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 11:45 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Door locks: DONE


> Got Wilton's package yesterday, thank you sir!
>
> Turns out the lock tumblers basically fall out of the cylinder when
everything isn't all jammed up. So I cut my old driver's side cylinder
apart
(finished cutting anyway, I'd started last week. Cleaned each tumbler good
with a wire wheel and 400 grit sandpaper.
> Interestingly my tumblers didn't fit in Wilton's cylinder the same
as they
fit in mine, odd... I had to use a mixture of his and mine to make it work.
Never the less we got there.
> So based on what I now know I realized the lock I'd already
"freed up" was
only set to fail again. So I took it apart once more and freed ALL the
tumblers rather than just the 6 that came easily. Then took them out and
cleaned 'em real good. I don't know what MB used in these for lube but
its
yellow and grease like and mine had picked up lots of dirt and turned into
concrete. I sanded the cylinder and tumblers with 600grit to make it all
work perfectly smooth and then lubed with graphite from a spray can (its in
some kind of carrier).
>
> So the locks are DONE. The doors still need to be buttoned up, they need
moisture barriers too. I want to hold off on the drivers door as I haven't
tested for vacuum leaks there yet. I already did the passenger's side.
>
> Out of time though, gotta go to a barbeque.
>
> -Curt
>
>
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT Debt Free was Re: List Of CL Cars

[Wonko the Sane]

About two years ago, my son was about to get his M.S. in Mechanical
Engineering from Virginia Tech and had a job offer. He phoned me asking if
he should accept the job.

He told me his starting salary (about $65K) -- I told him that was about the
same I got in salary plus housing benefits as a Coast Guard officer when I
was about to retire with 20 years service.

He took the job and is now well into six figures. And he gets paid very well
to design Coast Guard and Navy boats -- what a country!

As my Golden Years Approach, I look back and appreciate how the smart "kids"
should get the big bucks, if only as a payback for the time they spent doing
math homework when folks like me were screwing off, thinking there was no
tomorrow, and maybe practicing for band (not that there is anything wrong
with that). Mike (son) used to come to my apartment and do math problems for
fun, way past extra credit. He simply enjoyed math, much like I enjoy jazz
and networking issues on my laptops and HTML coding.

On Sat, Jul 12, 2008 at 9:56 PM, Tyler Backman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Thanks :)
>
> I graduated from Oregon State University with a degree in physics, and
> I will be working
> as a "Senior Bioinformatics Analyst" (mostly mathematics and computer
> programming related to genetics) for
> the University of California in Riverside. They're also going to let
> me take classes, and possibly work on
> a masters or PhD while working for them. My wife is getting her PhD in
> genetics there at the same time.
>
>
-- 
LT Don
http://don.homelinux.net/~don/

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Re: [MBZ] stupid yet simple question

[Curt Raymond]

Depends on what you're trying to do... To remove the mast:
Assuming its the same as a w123 or w201 you just unscrew the thing around the 
antenna. I'm talking about the bit with two flat notches cut into it.
If you're wanting to remove the antenna assuming its like a 201 you unbolt from 
the brackets inside the trunk and pull down hard. On my 190D I was very 
suprised to find the antenna wasn't bolted to the fender...
On my 240D there was a nut on top that had to come off.

-Curt

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2008 19:44:33 -0500
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [MBZ] stupid yet simple question
To: mercedes Mailing List 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

How do you remove the antenna on a 124?  I guess what I need to know is 
how to get the top nut off?  Does the antenna have to be up?  What do 
you do if the antenna does not work and it wont go u p on its own?
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
  89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com


  
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Re: [MBZ] stupid yet simple question

[Wilton Strickland]

'Just installed new grommets on my 124 last week.

The rubber grommet is in two pieces held by friction/grooves.  There's an
inner one that has a groove that the fender sheet metal goes in.  After a
new inner grommet is in place with antenna pushed back up into it, you push
the outer grommet down into place to make a better water seal around the
inner one.  The outer grommet has a flange on the inside that fits into a
groove on the outside of the inner one.  'Hafta remove the antenna from
underside to R&R the rubber grommets, but you don'r hafta remove the
grommets to remove the antenna.  The antenna just pushes up into the inner
grommet.   Are you wanting to just R&R the antenna and mechanism?  If so,
remove it,etc, IAW instructions in previous post.  Plus, of course,
mounting, etc., for grounding strap, power, etc., in the trunk.

Changing the telescoping part of the antenna only, though, is quite
different, but you hafta have the antenna up.  The telescope part is done
totally from outside/topside, and you don't hafta bother with the grommets
to do it, but, again, ya gotta have it up.  I can do more detail on the
grommets if ya want.


- Original Message -
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 9:44 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] stupid yet simple question


> OK, what holds the rubber gromet thing on, on the outside of the car?  I
> think I have something missing there.
>
> Wilton Strickland wrote:
> > Is the antenna switch on the upper center console in the up position and
> > radio on?  It must go up to change the telescoping part, the nut, etc.
Fuse
> > OK?
> >
> > If you wanta remove entire antenna and mechanism, pull inner liner out
of
> > left  rear quarter panel in the trunk.  First pull left end of
> > carpet/upholstery behind fuel tank aside to free forward end of the
plastic
> > liner, pull trunk carpet at left front corner up to free the bottom of
the
> > liner, pull forward end of the liner around to the right into the trunk
> > (have to pull hard and not be shy with it), pull upper edge of the inner
> > liner down and inward from under the quarter panel, pull forward end of
> > liner on around into the trunk as you roll the back part of the liner up
and
> > out of the well behind the fender.  After the inner liner is out of the
way,
> > remove a large Phillips screw on the vertical brace attached to top of
the
> > fender.  This screw secures the antenna mechanism.  With this screw
removed,
> > you can pull the mechanism downward, pulling the antenna out of the
rubber
> > grommet.
> >
> > Wilton
> >
> > - Original Message -
> > From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: "mercedes Mailing List" 
> > Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 8:44 PM
> > Subject: [MBZ] stupid yet simple question
> >
> >
> >> How do you remove the antenna on a 124?  I guess what I need to know is
> >> how to get the top nut off?  Does the antenna have to be up?  What do
> >> you do if the antenna does not work and it wont go u p on its own?
> >> --
> >> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> >>   94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
> >>   89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
> >>   84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
> >>   76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >>
> >> ___
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> >> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >>
> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
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> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> > Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.4.7/1546 - Release Date:
7/11/2008 6:47 AM
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>   94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
>   89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
>   84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
>   76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Another cheap 300TD

[Curt Raymond]

Its an island car, I know all I need to.

One time some friends when to Isle au Haut and rented (ready for this?) a VW 
Thing. This would have been '95 or so, the last Things were made in '74...
It had no brakes, 1 working headlight, 1 working tail light and 1 working dash 
light which IIRC was the high beam indicator although the high beams didn't 
work.
None of the seats were attached to the body by anything other than gravity. One 
tire went flat every night and there weren't any doors.
Since its a manual trans with reduction boxes stopping was no big deal, they 
never got above 3rd gear anyway which was good because nobody could find 4th...

That was the BEST car that could be rented that month on the island and was in 
high demand. None of the other rentals would run reliably...

Geez, I hadn't thought about that for years.

-Curt

--- On Sat, 7/12/08, andrew strasfogel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
From: andrew strasfogel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Another cheap 300TD
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Date: Saturday, July 12, 2008, 9:56 PM

He doesn't say anything about rust, or about  its service history.  What  about 
the interior?  it's a complete unknown.

On Sat, Jul 12, 2008 at 9:26 PM, Curt Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

The pictures make it hard to see the inevitable island car rust...



-Curt



Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2008 09:00:12 -0400

From: "Dwight E. Giles, Jr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Subject: [MBZ] Another cheap 300TD

To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 

Message-ID:

    <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="us-ascii"



http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/car/750695126.html







Has been on Boston CL before-once seller offered to bring car off island,

maybe even to Boston.



No interest, etc.







Dwight E. Giles, Jr.



1978 240D 4 speed. 218K miles. 



1979 240D- auto -250K + miles. (SOLD).



1990 300D 2.5t 160K miles.



Wickford, RI







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Re: [MBZ] Door locks: DONE

[Curt Raymond]

I can go one better, I've got a webpage:
http://home.gwi.net/~craymond/mercedes/mercedes.html

Assuming you're thinking what I think you're thinking I should remind you its a 
4spd. Theres a replacement hood a couple towns over. The next repair will be 
the antenna which I may get done tomorrow. Then next weeked I should get the 
hood at which point it should be fully road worthy.

-Curt


--- On Sat, 7/12/08, Wonko the Sane <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
From: Wonko the Sane <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Door locks: DONE
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Date: Saturday, July 12, 2008, 9:29 PM

Send me a pic of that 240D, if you would. (You KNOW what I'm thinking, don't 
you?)

On Sat, Jul 12, 2008 at 11:45 AM, Curt Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Got Wilton's package yesterday, thank you sir!



Turns out the lock tumblers basically fall out of the cylinder when everything 
isn't all jammed up. So I cut my old driver's side cylinder apart (finished 
cutting anyway, I'd started last week. Cleaned each tumbler good with a wire 
wheel and 400 grit sandpaper.


Interestingly my tumblers didn't fit in Wilton's cylinder the same as they fit 
in mine, odd... I had to use a mixture of his and mine to make it work. Never 
the less we got there.

So based on what I now know I realized the lock I'd already "freed up" was only 
set to fail again. So I took it apart once more and freed ALL the tumblers 
rather than just the 6 that came easily. Then took them out and cleaned 'em 
real good. I don't know what MB used in these for lube but its yellow and 
grease like and mine had picked up lots of dirt and turned into concrete. I 
sanded the cylinder and tumblers with 600grit to make it all work perfectly 
smooth and then lubed with graphite from a spray can (its in some kind of 
carrier).




So the locks are DONE. The doors still need to be buttoned up, they need 
moisture barriers too. I want to hold off on the drivers door as I haven't 
tested for vacuum leaks there yet. I already did the passenger's side.




Out of time though, gotta go to a barbeque.



-Curt









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-- 
LT Don
http://don.homelinux.net/~don/

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Re: [MBZ] stupid yet simple question

[Peter Frederick]

It's a two piece grommet -- the inside piece will not come out unless  
you pull the motor.  It has a slot that fits over the sheetmetal.   
The outer piece snaps onto the inner piece.

Probably broken by now, get a new one, else you get water in the  
trunk or rear fender.  Wagon and sedan are different.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] stupid yet simple question

[Peter Frederick]

Unscrew the retainer nut, as you guessed. It has two flats on it,  
just unscrew.  The rubber seal will stay put, the nut is quite thin.  
Turn the radio on to drive the antenna up and pull the mast out as  
the motor runs.

With luck, the entire nylon rack "tail" will come out.  If not, you  
have to take it apart.

If the motor runs and the antenna does not move, you will most likely  
be able to pull the mast right out -- either the tail is broken off  
(and will come out by itself, hopefully) or the drive gear is broken.

If the gear is broken, pull the motor assembly, pry the clips up and  
open it up, and remove the E-washer holding the gears in.  The molded  
tab that drives the spring connecting the drive gear to the antenna  
gear breaks off.  Cheap and cheerful fix is to find a screw that will  
fit into the hole in the tab nicely and not stick up (oval head or  
tapered head is best),  apply some fast set epoxy to the tab, screw  
the screw in to hold it in place (not too tight, you must leave some  
glue in between the parts!) and fill the hole with epoxy to keep the  
screw in place.

You can also be gears from Hirshman, but that's $40 or so.

To install a new antenna, stick the tail into the motor until it  
bottoms out and lower the antenna with the switch or by turning the  
ignition off.  The motor will wind the tail in and pull the mast  
down.  Re-install the nut.

Peter
On Jul 12, 2008, at 7:44 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

> How do you remove the antenna on a 124?  I guess what I need to  
> know is
> how to get the top nut off?  Does the antenna have to be up?  What do
> you do if the antenna does not work and it wont go u p on its own?
> -- 
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>   94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
>   89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
>   84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
>   76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] OT Debt Free was Re: List Of CL Cars

[Tyler Backman]

Thanks :)

I graduated from Oregon State University with a degree in physics, and  
I will be working
as a "Senior Bioinformatics Analyst" (mostly mathematics and computer  
programming related to genetics) for
the University of California in Riverside. They're also going to let  
me take classes, and possibly work on
a masters or PhD while working for them. My wife is getting her PhD in  
genetics there at the same time.

On the downside, I'll now be paying twice as much in taxes, as I made  
total at my previous job.

Tyler

On Jul 12, 2008, at 1:39 PM, Bill R wrote:

> Congratulations.  Where did you graduate from and with what degree,  
> and what
> job has called you?
> BillR
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> ]
> On Behalf Of Tyler Backman
> Sent: Friday, July 11, 2008 4:11 PM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Debt Free was Re: List Of CL Cars
>
> Apparently there's some sort of charity that gets unused suits from
> wealthy executives, etc. and sells them for $15 to college students to
> use in job interviews.
>
> Worked for me- I graduated less than a month ago with my bachelors and
> I just got offered a ridiculously good job.
>
> Tyler

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Re: [MBZ] Another cheap 300TD

[andrew strasfogel]

He doesn't say anything about rust, or about  its service history.  What
 about the interior?  it's a complete unknown.

On Sat, Jul 12, 2008 at 9:26 PM, Curt Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> The pictures make it hard to see the inevitable island car rust...
>
> -Curt
>
> Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2008 09:00:12 -0400
> From: "Dwight E. Giles, Jr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] Another cheap 300TD
> To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
> Message-ID:
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"
>
> http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/car/750695126.html
>
>
>
> Has been on Boston CL before-once seller offered to bring car off island,
> maybe even to Boston.
>
> No interest, etc.
>
>
>
> Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
>
> 1978 240D 4 speed. 218K miles.
>
> 1979 240D- auto -250K + miles. (SOLD).
>
> 1990 300D 2.5t 160K miles.
>
> Wickford, RI
>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
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[MBZ] Stopping by Jefferson

[Dan Weeks]

Was before I was on this list. I will next time, but there hasn't  
been a next time yet!

Dan


On Jul 12, 2008, at 8:41 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> You've been thru Jefferson and you didn't stop by? I am but one  
> block from
> the four lane.

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD, how to get rear hatch open

[Peter Frederick]

Apply pressure to the lock line, that should pop it to the unlock  
position.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] OT Debt Free was Re: List Of CL Cars

[Wonko the Sane]

I am fortunate enough to be employed at Management level in an organization
where I go to work most days in jeans and blue Converse sneakers and a
comfortable shirt. I honestly can't remember the last time I went to work
wearing leather shoes and dress clothes.

If it is hot enough outside, I crawl into a pair of shorts (Dockers) after
my morning shower and head off to work, and no one (even my supervisor, who
is one of the Directors) says anything about it.

After two decades in the military, I would not tolerate any job that would
comment on my style of dress, length of my hair or my daily earring choice
(diamond stud or hoop).

At the moment, I have sort of a Michael MacDonald thing going on.

http://www.milwaukeeholidaylights.com/images/concert-macdonald.jpg

Actually, that is sort of a scary God That Is Me photo, except my hair still
sort of looks blond w/ some grey (lots of it). The goatee is identical,
though.

On Fri, Jul 11, 2008 at 3:16 PM, Tyler Backman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> A similar thing happened to my grandfather Bill.
>

-- 
LT Don
http://don.homelinux.net/~don/

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Re: [MBZ] update on 190D AC

[Peter Frederick]

Hold the clutch (really big channel-locks work, or use an impact) and  
remove the 12mm bolt.  Pull the clutch plate off (it's usually sorta  
stuck).  Do not loose the shims!  Add or remove shims to set the gap.

Remove and take apart the connector (two screws , then it "unfolds"  
to release the wires -- you can probably leave it together).  Remove  
the two screws holding the plate the connector screws to, one of them  
holds the ground wire for the clutch coil.

Pull out the dust trap, noting which way it fits, then remove the  
snap ring that holds the clutch to the front of the compressor and  
slide it off.  Remember which way the snap ring fits, it's not flat.

Check the face of the clutch for damage and contamination -- a light  
pass with a flat stone won't hurt it a bit.

There are 5 bolts holding the front cover to the compressor -- your  
new seal kit will have seal washers.  Clean it up perfectly clean,  
and remove the snap ring holding the seal in.  If you have or can  
make the tools, you can pull the seal parts out and push the new ones  
in.  If not, remove the 5 bolts and the front cover comes off.  Press  
out the old parts, coat the new ones with clean compressor oil and  
install, then put the front cover back on.  Use the new circular seal  
that cam with the shaft seal -- it's not an o-ring.  VERY CAREFULLY  
torque down the bolts.  1/4 turn at a time after they touch, very  
evenly (you can distort the housing if you don't).  Re-install the  
clutch and you should be good to go.  Worked fine for me (and I've  
also re-sealed a compressor).  Make sure the snap ring retainer for  
the seal it seated correctly.

The deal with the mainfold o-rings is that they are NOT green --  
don't know what they are, but the black ones are for both R12 and  
R134a, and they have to be stuffed into the manifold, they look too  
big when you first try.  I suspect they are fluoropolymer, not  
whatever the green ones are, and the green ones I took out of the  
leaking compressor were flattened, hard, and cracked with obvious  
signs of hot gasses leaking past, cutting fissures.  Leads me to  
think that the $16 for o-rings might be a good value, considering the  
hassle of getting the compressor out of a W201.  Not horrible, but a  
wrestle.  Not as bad as from the wrecked W124 -- frame rail was  
shoved over a couple inches and I have to leave the bolts in, no room  
to pull them out,

Peter


On Jul 12, 2008, at 7:09 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

> OK, see where I can order one.  How do you get the clutch off?  Is it
> just one bolt or what?  Any special tools needed?
>
> Also, what is wrong with the green o rings?  That is what I used.  I
> just have a big variety pack of them.
>
> Peter Frederick wrote:
>> You can get a shaft seal from ACSource or Polarbear INC (I have one
>> sitting here waiting to go in my "new" compressor tomorrow).  It
>> comes with new bolt seals, you take fhe front cover off after
>> removing the clutch, push the old one out, new on in, reassemble.  If
>> you have the tools, you can pull the two part seal without taking the
>> front casting off, too, but I don't have them.
>>
>> A leaking front seal is the second most common compressor leak --
>> manifold set hoses and manifold to pump seals are first and second.
>> Don't use green o-rings for the compressor to manifold seal, either,
>> I just took out a set that are rough and hard, and also have fine
>> cracks on the faces.  The proper ones are $4 each, and have to be
>> forced into the seat in the manifold.  If they aren't tight enough,
>> they leak under pressure.
>>
>> Set the clutch gap while you are in there, too -- too wide, and it
>> slips and the KLIMA kicks off.
>>
>> Peter
>>
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
>> Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.4.7/1546 - Release Date:  
>> 7/11/2008 6:47 AM
>>
>>
>>
>
> -- 
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>   94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
>   89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
>   84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
>   76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] stupid yet simple question

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

OK, what holds the rubber gromet thing on, on the outside of the car?  I 
think I have something missing there.

Wilton Strickland wrote:
> Is the antenna switch on the upper center console in the up position and
> radio on?  It must go up to change the telescoping part, the nut, etc.  Fuse
> OK?
> 
> If you wanta remove entire antenna and mechanism, pull inner liner out of
> left  rear quarter panel in the trunk.  First pull left end of
> carpet/upholstery behind fuel tank aside to free forward end of the plastic
> liner, pull trunk carpet at left front corner up to free the bottom of the
> liner, pull forward end of the liner around to the right into the trunk
> (have to pull hard and not be shy with it), pull upper edge of the inner
> liner down and inward from under the quarter panel, pull forward end of
> liner on around into the trunk as you roll the back part of the liner up and
> out of the well behind the fender.  After the inner liner is out of the way,
> remove a large Phillips screw on the vertical brace attached to top of the
> fender.  This screw secures the antenna mechanism.  With this screw removed,
> you can pull the mechanism downward, pulling the antenna out of the rubber
> grommet.
> 
> Wilton
> 
> - Original Message -
> From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "mercedes Mailing List" 
> Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 8:44 PM
> Subject: [MBZ] stupid yet simple question
> 
> 
>> How do you remove the antenna on a 124?  I guess what I need to know is
>> how to get the top nut off?  Does the antenna have to be up?  What do
>> you do if the antenna does not work and it wont go u p on its own?
>> --
>> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>>   94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
>>   89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
>>   84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
>>   76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.4.7/1546 - Release Date: 7/11/2008 
> 6:47 AM
> 
> 
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
  89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com

___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] stupid yet simple question

[Wilton Strickland]

Is the antenna switch on the upper center console in the up position and
radio on?  It must go up to change the telescoping part, the nut, etc.  Fuse
OK?

If you wanta remove entire antenna and mechanism, pull inner liner out of
left  rear quarter panel in the trunk.  First pull left end of
carpet/upholstery behind fuel tank aside to free forward end of the plastic
liner, pull trunk carpet at left front corner up to free the bottom of the
liner, pull forward end of the liner around to the right into the trunk
(have to pull hard and not be shy with it), pull upper edge of the inner
liner down and inward from under the quarter panel, pull forward end of
liner on around into the trunk as you roll the back part of the liner up and
out of the well behind the fender.  After the inner liner is out of the way,
remove a large Phillips screw on the vertical brace attached to top of the
fender.  This screw secures the antenna mechanism.  With this screw removed,
you can pull the mechanism downward, pulling the antenna out of the rubber
grommet.

Wilton

- Original Message -
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "mercedes Mailing List" 
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 8:44 PM
Subject: [MBZ] stupid yet simple question


> How do you remove the antenna on a 124?  I guess what I need to know is
> how to get the top nut off?  Does the antenna have to be up?  What do
> you do if the antenna does not work and it wont go u p on its own?
> --
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>   94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
>   89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
>   84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
>   76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
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For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] a 420SEL turbodiesel

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

BIN is 54 something or other.  If a list person wanted it I would take 5k

Craig McCluskey wrote:
> On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 19:43:19 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin"
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
>> I think you should buy your wife my nice E420
> 
> So, how much will you take for it?
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.4.7/1546 - Release Date: 7/11/2008 
> 6:47 AM
> 
> 
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
  89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com

___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] a 420SEL turbodiesel

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

hahahahahahahahahahahaha

Wonko the Sane wrote:
> I will give you $2K, after I get paid for my Quantum. Delivered.
> 
> On Sat, Jul 12, 2008 at 8:43 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> 
>> I think you should buy your wife my nice E420
>>
>> Craig McCluskey wrote:
>>> On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 19:21:23 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin"
>>> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>>
>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-DIESEL-SEL-BENZ_W0QQitemZ140247161892QQihZ004QQcategoryZ6330QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>>> I saw that this morning and thought of posting it to the list, but
>> didn't.
>>>
>>> Craig
>>>
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>>
>>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>>> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
>>> Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.4.7/1546 - Release Date: 7/11/2008
>> 6:47 AM
>>>
>>>
>> --
>> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>>  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
>>  89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
>>  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
>>  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
> 
> 
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
  89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com

___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] a 420SEL turbodiesel

[Wonko the Sane]

I will give you $2K, after I get paid for my Quantum. Delivered.

On Sat, Jul 12, 2008 at 8:43 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> I think you should buy your wife my nice E420
>
> Craig McCluskey wrote:
> > On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 19:21:23 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin"
> > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> >>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-DIESEL-SEL-BENZ_W0QQitemZ140247161892QQihZ004QQcategoryZ6330QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
> >
> > I saw that this morning and thought of posting it to the list, but
> didn't.
> >
> >
> > Craig
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> > Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.4.7/1546 - Release Date: 7/11/2008
> 6:47 AM
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
>  89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
>  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
>  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>



-- 
LT Don
http://don.homelinux.net/~don/

apt-get update
apt-get upgrade
The following packages will be replaced
Prez
Do you want to continue? [Y/n] Y
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Re: [MBZ] And then there is: 1995 Mercedes-Benz E-Class DIESEL

[Wonko the Sane]

Reserve = Buy It Now, I'll bet.

On Sat, Jul 12, 2008 at 2:11 PM, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 11:39:45 -0600 Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
>
> > Mileage:  212,232 miles
> >
> > Location: Houston,Texas
> >
> >
> > Which is at $2,850.00 now ...
>
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220256016659
>
>
> Craig
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>



-- 
LT Don
http://don.homelinux.net/~don/

apt-get update
apt-get upgrade
The following packages will be replaced
Prez
Do you want to continue? [Y/n] Y
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Re: [MBZ] Door locks: DONE

[Wonko the Sane]

Send me a pic of that 240D, if you would. (You KNOW what I'm thinking, don't
you?)

On Sat, Jul 12, 2008 at 11:45 AM, Curt Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Got Wilton's package yesterday, thank you sir!
>
> Turns out the lock tumblers basically fall out of the cylinder when
> everything isn't all jammed up. So I cut my old driver's side cylinder apart
> (finished cutting anyway, I'd started last week. Cleaned each tumbler good
> with a wire wheel and 400 grit sandpaper.
> Interestingly my tumblers didn't fit in Wilton's cylinder the same as they
> fit in mine, odd... I had to use a mixture of his and mine to make it work.
> Never the less we got there.
> So based on what I now know I realized the lock I'd already "freed up" was
> only set to fail again. So I took it apart once more and freed ALL the
> tumblers rather than just the 6 that came easily. Then took them out and
> cleaned 'em real good. I don't know what MB used in these for lube but its
> yellow and grease like and mine had picked up lots of dirt and turned into
> concrete. I sanded the cylinder and tumblers with 600grit to make it all
> work perfectly smooth and then lubed with graphite from a spray can (its in
> some kind of carrier).
>
> So the locks are DONE. The doors still need to be buttoned up, they need
> moisture barriers too. I want to hold off on the drivers door as I haven't
> tested for vacuum leaks there yet. I already did the passenger's side.
>
> Out of time though, gotta go to a barbeque.
>
> -Curt
>
>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>



-- 
LT Don
http://don.homelinux.net/~don/

apt-get update
apt-get upgrade
The following packages will be replaced
Prez
Do you want to continue? [Y/n] Y
___
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Re: [MBZ] Door locks: DONE

[Craig McCluskey]

On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 18:19:20 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> They're brass wafers just under 1/4" wide and maybe 1/16" thick. I'd
> never realized how locks work, they're super simple...

Yup. I learned how to pick locks my first week at Caltech ...


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] a 420SEL turbodiesel

[Craig McCluskey]

On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 19:43:19 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I think you should buy your wife my nice E420

So, how much will you take for it?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Another cheap 300TD

[Curt Raymond]

The pictures make it hard to see the inevitable island car rust...

-Curt

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2008 09:00:12 -0400
From: "Dwight E. Giles, Jr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [MBZ] Another cheap 300TD
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Message-ID:
    <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="us-ascii"

http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/car/750695126.html

 

Has been on Boston CL before-once seller offered to bring car off island,
maybe even to Boston.

No interest, etc.

 

Dwight E. Giles, Jr.

1978 240D 4 speed. 218K miles.  

1979 240D- auto -250K + miles. (SOLD). 

1990 300D 2.5t 160K miles.

Wickford, RI


  
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Re: [MBZ] Door locks: DONE

[Curt Raymond]

They're brass wafers just under 1/4" wide and maybe 1/16" thick. I'd never 
realized how locks work, they're super simple...

-Curt

--- On Sat, 7/12/08, Wilton Strickland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
From: Wilton Strickland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Door locks: DONE
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Date: Saturday, July 12, 2008, 12:26 PM

'Zackly what I thought.  I vaguely remember that I had the tumblers out of a
123 cylinder years ago and that they came out very easily.  'Had no doubt
that you'd be able to "make up" a good assembly.  BTW, remind me,
are the
tumblers pins or wafers?

'Glad you were able to do it.

Wilton

- Original Message -
From: "Curt Raymond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Diesel List" 
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 11:45 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Door locks: DONE


> Got Wilton's package yesterday, thank you sir!
>
> Turns out the lock tumblers basically fall out of the cylinder when
everything isn't all jammed up. So I cut my old driver's side cylinder
apart
(finished cutting anyway, I'd started last week. Cleaned each tumbler good
with a wire wheel and 400 grit sandpaper.
> Interestingly my tumblers didn't fit in Wilton's cylinder the same
as they
fit in mine, odd... I had to use a mixture of his and mine to make it work.
Never the less we got there.
> So based on what I now know I realized the lock I'd already
"freed up" was
only set to fail again. So I took it apart once more and freed ALL the
tumblers rather than just the 6 that came easily. Then took them out and
cleaned 'em real good. I don't know what MB used in these for lube but
its
yellow and grease like and mine had picked up lots of dirt and turned into
concrete. I sanded the cylinder and tumblers with 600grit to make it all
work perfectly smooth and then lubed with graphite from a spray can (its in
some kind of carrier).
>
> So the locks are DONE. The doors still need to be buttoned up, they need
moisture barriers too. I want to hold off on the drivers door as I haven't
tested for vacuum leaks there yet. I already did the passenger's side.
>
> Out of time though, gotta go to a barbeque.
>
> -Curt
>
>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


  
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Re: [MBZ] Be Careful Voting this year!

[Wonko the Sane]

Careful how you talk about your next President.

On Sat, Jul 12, 2008 at 11:55 AM, LarryT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> andrew S wrote < >> humanity.  There were several candidates who simply exuded an aura of
> >> evil>>
>
> Exactly my thoughts about obama - why can't more people see it?
>
> Larry T (66 MGB, 74 911, 91 300D)
> www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
> Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
> 800-583-8601
> Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
>
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Alex Chamberlain" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Friday, July 11, 2008 11:52 AM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Be Careful Voting this year!
>
>
> > On Thu, Jul 10, 2008 at 7:33 AM, Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >> andrew strasfogel wrote:
> >>> Watching a Republican debates was like a visit to the darker side of
> >>> humanity.  There were several candidates who simply exuded an aura of
> >>> evil (Duncan Hunter and Tancredo, e.g.)
> >>
> >> Hunter and Tancredo? I thought you were talking about Rudy and Romney.
> >
> > "Aura of evil" is right.  Romney has reminded me since the first time
> > I saw him of Martin Sheen's politician character in the old Stephen
> > King movie _The Dead Zone._  (A charismatic sociopath who starts WWIII
> > for the fun of it.)  I'm voting for McLame this fall as a vote against
> > Obama, but I don't know what I'll do if Romney is the Republican veep
> > pick.  No way I want that guy one step away from the hot seat.
> >
> > Alex
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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>
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Re: [MBZ] update on 190D AC

[Tyler Backman]

I can see why Marshall Booth said (to paraphrase) that maintaining the  
AC on a 190 is more difficult than maintaining the whole rest of the  
car

Tyler

On Jul 12, 2008, at 5:09 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

> OK, see where I can order one.  How do you get the clutch off?  Is it
> just one bolt or what?  Any special tools needed?
>
> Also, what is wrong with the green o rings?  That is what I used.  I
> just have a big variety pack of them.

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Re: [MBZ] Bought a 190D turbo without seeing it first

[Tyler Backman]

Yea, mine was modified quite a bit too with higher compression (thin  
head gasket), a better cam, and of course swapping the slushbox for a  
*real* transmission among other things.

When I'm done with the 190D it should be faster, more economical, and  
better handling than the Volvo was (which is saying quite a bit).

Tyler

On Jul 12, 2008, at 4:47 PM, Peter Frederick wrote:

> That Volvo TD with a five speed was a HOT car -- 0-60 in 9 seconds or
> something, quite fast for a 2.4L diesel.  Probably got 33 mpg or
> better on the highway, too.  My 740 with an automatic got 31-32 on
> the highway with the AC on, 29 mpg in town.
>
> Noisy turbo though.
>
> Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 4 lanes in small towns, was bikes something or other

[Wonko the Sane]

The only stop light in the entire freekin' *county* is a couple of blocks
south of me.

Does YOUR county have only one stop light? THAT is Iowa.

On Sat, Jul 12, 2008 at 2:13 PM, Fmiser <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> It seems than at Sat, 12 Jul 2008 09:17:56 -0500, Dan wrote:
>
> >
> > On Jul 12, 2008, at 7:00 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Small town don't have 4-lane anything. Yours must be a
> > > "small-ish" town.
> > >
> > > --  Philip
> >
> > Not it Iowa, Phillip. There are towns with only one paved
> > road--the county highway that passes through--and it widens
> > out to 4 lanes for three blocks through "town" so through
> > traffic doesn't have to slow down. It's a rural midwest thing.
> > I've been to Don's town, and yes, it's small.
> >
> > Dan
>
> I'm _in_ the rural mid-west. I know of many towns with a
> population of greater than 4000 and more than 3 traffic lights
> that don't have anything bigger than 2+center-turn-lane.
>
> So maybe it's an Iowa thing.
>
> Except I'm thinking of a number of Iowa towns that have been
> only just recently been bypassed by a 4-lane that didn't have
> four lane streets - on the US highway passing through. Thought
> now the 4-lane, limited access highway is 1/2 mile outside of
> town. Anyway.
>
> -- Philip
>
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[MBZ] stupid yet simple question

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

How do you remove the antenna on a 124?  I guess what I need to know is 
how to get the top nut off?  Does the antenna have to be up?  What do 
you do if the antenna does not work and it wont go u p on its own?
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
  89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] 4 lanes in small towns, was bikes something or other

[Wonko the Sane]

You've been thru Jefferson and you didn't stop by? I am but one block from
the four lane.

On Sat, Jul 12, 2008 at 10:17 AM, Dan Weeks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
> On Jul 12, 2008, at 7:00 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > Small town don't have 4-lane anything. Yours must be a
> > "small-ish" town.
> >
> > --  Philip
>
> Not it Iowa, Phillip. There are towns with only one paved road--the
> county highway that passes through--and it widens out to 4 lanes for
> three blocks through "town" so through traffic doesn't have to slow
> down. It's a rural midwest thing. I've been to Don's town, and yes,
> it's small.
>
> Dan
>
>
>
> ___
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Re: [MBZ] a 420SEL turbodiesel

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

I think you should buy your wife my nice E420

Craig McCluskey wrote:
> On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 19:21:23 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin"
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-DIESEL-SEL-BENZ_W0QQitemZ140247161892QQihZ004QQcategoryZ6330QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
> 
> I saw that this morning and thought of posting it to the list, but didn't.
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
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> 6:47 AM
> 
> 
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
  89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] a 420SEL turbodiesel

[Craig McCluskey]

On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 19:21:23 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-DIESEL-SEL-BENZ_W0QQitemZ140247161892QQihZ004QQcategoryZ6330QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I saw that this morning and thought of posting it to the list, but didn't.


Craig

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[MBZ] a 420SEL turbodiesel

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-DIESEL-SEL-BENZ_W0QQitemZ140247161892QQihZ004QQcategoryZ6330QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
  89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com

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[MBZ] 87 300TD, how to get rear hatch open

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

On my 87 300TD, cant get the hatch open.  IIRC, I dont think they key 
will turn, so Im thinking maybe its stuck in the lock position.  Anybody 
have a way of getting the hatch open?  Anybody BTDT?
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
  89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Does one of the Dons want a LSS?

[Wonko the Sane]

Listing says a good Moor? Holy Shakespeare, BatMan.

On Sat, Jul 12, 2008 at 4:52 PM, Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> http://lansing.craigslist.org/car/752189272.html
>
> Or maybe Wonko wants to get rid of his VW/Audi and get a Porsche/Audi for
> Deb:
> http://lansing.craigslist.org/car/752132252.html
>
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LT Don
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Re: [MBZ] update on 190D AC

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

OK, see where I can order one.  How do you get the clutch off?  Is it 
just one bolt or what?  Any special tools needed?

Also, what is wrong with the green o rings?  That is what I used.  I 
just have a big variety pack of them.

Peter Frederick wrote:
> You can get a shaft seal from ACSource or Polarbear INC (I have one  
> sitting here waiting to go in my "new" compressor tomorrow).  It  
> comes with new bolt seals, you take fhe front cover off after  
> removing the clutch, push the old one out, new on in, reassemble.  If  
> you have the tools, you can pull the two part seal without taking the  
> front casting off, too, but I don't have them.
> 
> A leaking front seal is the second most common compressor leak --  
> manifold set hoses and manifold to pump seals are first and second.   
> Don't use green o-rings for the compressor to manifold seal, either,  
> I just took out a set that are rough and hard, and also have fine  
> cracks on the faces.  The proper ones are $4 each, and have to be  
> forced into the seat in the manifold.  If they aren't tight enough,  
> they leak under pressure.
> 
> Set the clutch gap while you are in there, too -- too wide, and it  
> slips and the KLIMA kicks off.
> 
> Peter
> 
> 
> ___
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> 
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> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.4.7/1546 - Release Date: 7/11/2008 
> 6:47 AM
> 
> 
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
  89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Bought a 190D turbo without seeing it first

[Peter Frederick]

That Volvo TD with a five speed was a HOT car -- 0-60 in 9 seconds or  
something, quite fast for a 2.4L diesel.  Probably got 33 mpg or  
better on the highway, too.  My 740 with an automatic got 31-32 on  
the highway with the AC on, 29 mpg in town.

Noisy turbo though.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] update on 190D AC

[Peter Frederick]

You can get a shaft seal from ACSource or Polarbear INC (I have one  
sitting here waiting to go in my "new" compressor tomorrow).  It  
comes with new bolt seals, you take fhe front cover off after  
removing the clutch, push the old one out, new on in, reassemble.  If  
you have the tools, you can pull the two part seal without taking the  
front casting off, too, but I don't have them.

A leaking front seal is the second most common compressor leak --  
manifold set hoses and manifold to pump seals are first and second.   
Don't use green o-rings for the compressor to manifold seal, either,  
I just took out a set that are rough and hard, and also have fine  
cracks on the faces.  The proper ones are $4 each, and have to be  
forced into the seat in the manifold.  If they aren't tight enough,  
they leak under pressure.

Set the clutch gap while you are in there, too -- too wide, and it  
slips and the KLIMA kicks off.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Bought a 190D turbo without seeing it first

[Tyler Backman]

Weird, I've heard that once before too. Of course, I've never driven  
one, but I have owned
a lot of turbo diesel manual cars, including my 1984 Volvo 760 which  
is about the same size
car, engine, and turbo. Because the diesel has no throttle body, the  
turbo remains fully spooled
up between shifts on the Volvo. I do tend to shift rather quickly  
(just as long as it takes for the RPMs
to fall enough to match the next gear).

Tyler

On Jul 12, 2008, at 4:00 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

> MB never put a 5 speed behind a turbo diesel because it reduces the
> driveability.  Yea it sounds like a good idea but everyone I have  
> talked
> to that have done it was not happy with the results.  After every  
> shift,
> you got to wait for the turbo to spool back up again.  Very sluggish.

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Re: [MBZ] Bought a 190D turbo without seeing it first

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

MB never put a 5 speed behind a turbo diesel because it reduces the 
driveability.  Yea it sounds like a good idea but everyone I have talked 
to that have done it was not happy with the results.  After every shift, 
you got to wait for the turbo to spool back up again.  Very sluggish.

Tyler Backman wrote:
> Why skip the 5 speed? I'm no fan of automatics at all, and people who  
> have put 5 speeds in these report a 5+ mpg improvement in fuel economy.
> 
> I think autos take much of the driving fun out of a car. I drive  
> fairly hard, and I'm especially annoyed when they upshift right in the  
> apex of a turn, and then downshift immediately after you hit the  
> throttle...
> 
> Also, he said he recently paid a "mechanic" to work on the climate  
> control vacuum system, and afterwards the transmission started  
> shifting at the wrong rpms. I'm assuming he probably pulled off or  
> broke a vacuum line associated with the shifting system, and rather  
> than screw with it I'd rather put in a *real* transmission.
> 
> He said he spent over a grand getting the AC system recharged, and  
> installing a new climate control unit, but it still randomly switches  
> back and forth between AC and heat with no rhyme or reason. Any ideas  
> as to what that could be? Some sort of sensor problem? Maybe a bad  
> vacuum pump? I've never had one of these before.
> 
> Tyler
> 
> On Jul 12, 2008, at 3:49 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
> 
>> looks pretty nice although I would skip the 5 speed idea
> 
> ___
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> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.4.7/1546 - Release Date: 7/11/2008 
> 6:47 AM
> 
> 
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
  89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Bought a 190D turbo without seeing it first

[Tyler Backman]

Why skip the 5 speed? I'm no fan of automatics at all, and people who  
have put 5 speeds in these report a 5+ mpg improvement in fuel economy.

I think autos take much of the driving fun out of a car. I drive  
fairly hard, and I'm especially annoyed when they upshift right in the  
apex of a turn, and then downshift immediately after you hit the  
throttle...

Also, he said he recently paid a "mechanic" to work on the climate  
control vacuum system, and afterwards the transmission started  
shifting at the wrong rpms. I'm assuming he probably pulled off or  
broke a vacuum line associated with the shifting system, and rather  
than screw with it I'd rather put in a *real* transmission.

He said he spent over a grand getting the AC system recharged, and  
installing a new climate control unit, but it still randomly switches  
back and forth between AC and heat with no rhyme or reason. Any ideas  
as to what that could be? Some sort of sensor problem? Maybe a bad  
vacuum pump? I've never had one of these before.

Tyler

On Jul 12, 2008, at 3:49 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

> looks pretty nice although I would skip the 5 speed idea

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Re: [MBZ] Bought a 190D turbo without seeing it first

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

looks pretty nice although I would skip the 5 speed idea

Tyler Backman wrote:
> I've always wanted a 190D Turbo, and after talking to you guys about  
> the ergonomics of it, I went ahead and bought this one:
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trkparms=tab%3DWatching&viewitem=&item=140247012459&_trksid=p3907.m32
> 
> The seller has no eBay feedback and a poor description, but I talked  
> to him for about an hour about it, and did a carfax
> and it seems pretty good. The body, paint, and interior are virtually  
> perfect but it has a bunch of electrical problems (AC, power windows,  
> etc.)
> 
> I am going to install a 5 speed, an intercooler, and heavily modified  
> suspension...
> 
> What do you guys think? I'm hoping to pick it up in person and pay  
> cash for it in a few weeks.
> 
> Tyler
> 
> ___
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> 6:47 AM
> 
> 
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
  89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com

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[MBZ] Bought a 190D turbo without seeing it first

[Tyler Backman]

I've always wanted a 190D Turbo, and after talking to you guys about  
the ergonomics of it, I went ahead and bought this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trkparms=tab%3DWatching&viewitem=&item=140247012459&_trksid=p3907.m32

The seller has no eBay feedback and a poor description, but I talked  
to him for about an hour about it, and did a carfax
and it seems pretty good. The body, paint, and interior are virtually  
perfect but it has a bunch of electrical problems (AC, power windows,  
etc.)

I am going to install a 5 speed, an intercooler, and heavily modified  
suspension...

What do you guys think? I'm hoping to pick it up in person and pay  
cash for it in a few weeks.

Tyler

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[MBZ] update on 190D AC

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Well put the guages on it and there was a little 134 still in there. 
got out the sniffer, looks like I had leaks from the fittings on the 
drier.  Pulled that back apart and I think maybe I put in too small of o 
rings.  Put in the next size up.  Also sniffer seemed to be picking up a 
leak from the front of the ac compressor.  Assume it probably is 
leaking.  Anyway, after I put in the different o rings, I pulled a 
vacuum and let it sit.  Yep, its leaking a little.  I dont know if I 
fixed the leak from the drier or not.  If I had my r134 machine going, I 
would charge it up and check for leaks.  Then I could recover the 
refrigerant and not loose any.  But, I still cant find a cable for it. 
Anyway, back to the ac compressor.  Somebody on here was talking about 
replacing the seal on the compressor.  How do you do that?  Is it a 
simple procedure or should I just buy a new compressor from Rusty? 
Really want to get that project done!!
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
  89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] W140 Diesel Project In St. Loius

[Rick Knoble]

email this posting to a friend st louis craigslist > cars & trucks 
please flag with care: 

miscategorized 
prohibited 
spam/overpost 
best of craigslist 

Avoid scams and fraud by dealing locally! Beware any deal involving Western 
Union, Moneygram, wire transfer, cashier check, money order, shipping, escrow, 
or any promise of transaction protection/certification/guarantee. More info
1994 MERCEDES S 350 - $3900 (SAINT CHARLES)


Reply to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: 2008-07-12, 12:46PM CDT



NICE DIESEL WITH 241,XXX MILES.LOOKS AND DRIVES GEAT. BEING SOLD AS IS. CALL 
MIKE AT 636-233-1832.   
  



  a.. This item has been posted by-dealer. 
  b.. Location: SAINT CHARLES 
  c.. it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial 
interests
PostingID: 752254410





Copyright © 2008 craigslist, inc.terms of useprivacy policyfeedback 
forum 
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Re: [MBZ] W140 Diesel Project In St. Loius

[Rick Knoble]

> what did it say, its flagged for removal.
> 
> Rick Knoble wrote:
>> http://stlouis.craigslist.org/car/752254410.html


Works for me...

NICE DIESEL WITH 241,XXX MILES.LOOKS AND DRIVES GEAT. BEING SOLD AS IS. CALL 
MIKE AT 636-233-1832.   
  
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Re: [MBZ] Timing chain problem

[Peter Frederick]

Oh boy.

This is going to get complicated, I think, as you must get the IP set  
to the correct half of the cycle as well as the cam.

What you are going to need to do is verify that the crank is at TDC  
on #1 (the 0 marking on the balancer) and set the cam to the index  
mark on the tower ( center the notch in the thrust washer with the  
nub cast in the front tower).  This sets the cam and crank together  
and you can then get the new chain it.  If the chain does not come  
off the pump drive (and it won't, unless you drop that end and it  
goes all the way through), you will either be right on for injection  
timing or 180 degrees out.

Get the chain in and the cam timing correct, then make absolutely  
positive that the engine rotates properly and generates compression,  
then try to start it.  If it runs properly, you are home free.  If  
not, you will either have to pull the IP and retime, or re-set the  
cam 180 degrees.

Peter
On Jul 12, 2008, at 10:22 AM, Archer wrote:

>
> From: "Peter Frederick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> You MUST rotate the camshaft along with the crank.  You are hitting a
>> valve -- this is an interference engine.  You can remove the rockers
>> if you want to do what you are doing, but the correct way is to keep
>> BOTH ends of the chain on the cam sprocket as you rotate the engine
>> with the crank pulley (not the PS pump pulley).
>>
>> You will have the injection pump out of time if you're not careful.
>> and the engine will not rotate at all unless the cam is operating the
>> valves along with the crank.
>> Peter
> ---
> I marked the position of the masterlink on the camshaft sprocket,  
> held up
> the chain, and turned the sprocket around.  It let the crankshaft turn
> freely for a longer distance.  I put the masterlink back on the  
> mark and it
> was back to the old stopping point.  I must have let the chain slip  
> on the
> cam sprocket or even the crankshaft sprocket.  Now what do I do?  I  
> have the
> CD for the car if you can suggest which jobs to look for.
> Thanks,
> Gerry
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Is this a good deal? (Honda CB750)

[ernest breakfield]

odd; i didn't find the SV650 to be that much of a problem to manage; to 
the contrary, i have a number of friends and acquaintances who have been 
very happy with them for first bikes... but they all got into them 
knowing that while they may not be perfect, there's a wealth of bits 
available for modifying them to make them more to their tastes and liking.
as for heavy; i'm all for the benefits of heavy bikes on the highway 
(mine is about 580+ dry). however, managing a bike of that mass at low 
speeds in surface street traffic isn't something most novices should 
have to be focusing on while they're trying to learn; there's much less 
danger from your fellow motorists to learn to deal with on the highway 
than on the surface streets.

i'd highly recommend something straightforward like a mid-size 
moderate enduro-style bike for a beginner; lighter weight and upright 
seating that make it easy to handle, competent enough for everything 
short of long highway stretches, and readily available used for prices 
that won't cause one to cringe during the inevitable drops.
after you're done beating up that enduro with your beginners 
mistakes, you should have a better idea of what kind if riding you 
really want to do and what kind of machine you really want to invest in, 
and you can still probably sell the enduro for a good percentage of what 
you got it for and you won't have lost as much money.


cheers!
e

'02 BMW GS Adventure - ~49K miles
(*not* my first moto...)  ;-)


Curt Raymond wrote:
> WHAT?
>
> Those are DEFINATELY NOT starter bikes. The CB750 is way more of a starter 
> bike than an SV650. I rode my friends SV650s (I think s, its got a fairing) 
> and its way too much for a novice, especially at low speeds.
> A Ninja 250 will get a novice rider killed, period.
>
> A CB500 would be a good starter bike, the 750 won't be all that much bigger 
> or more powerful.
>
> John, a heavier bike is an ADVANTAGE. You get blown around less...
>
> -Curt
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 18:19:05 -0400
> From: Rolf <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Is this a good deal? (Honda CB750)
> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> Starter bike? Not really IMO.
>
> Good starter bikes:
>
> CB/VF500
> SV650
> GS500
> 250CC Ninja.
>
> -Rolf
>
>
>
>   
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>
>
>   
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[MBZ] Does one of the Dons want a LSS?

[Mitch Haley]

http://lansing.craigslist.org/car/752189272.html

Or maybe Wonko wants to get rid of his VW/Audi and get a Porsche/Audi for Deb:
http://lansing.craigslist.org/car/752132252.html

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Re: [MBZ] OT Debt Free was Re: List Of CL Cars

[Bill R]

Congratulations.  Where did you graduate from and with what degree, and what
job has called you? 
BillR

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Tyler Backman
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2008 4:11 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Debt Free was Re: List Of CL Cars

Apparently there's some sort of charity that gets unused suits from  
wealthy executives, etc. and sells them for $15 to college students to  
use in job interviews.

Worked for me- I graduated less than a month ago with my bachelors and  
I just got offered a ridiculously good job.

Tyler

On Jul 11, 2008, at 12:23 PM, Ed Booher wrote:
>
> Where are you buying suits for $15, because I want in on some of that!
> EdB

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Re: [MBZ] Timing chain problem/ my comment

[jfreezn]

Archer,

It is very hard to get the timing out of wack between the crankshaft  
and the injection pump!  This, because the chain is held in contact 
with the IP timing gear with a screw ( that you can see penetrating the 
housing bulge on the driver's side), and the very small clearance where 
the chain goes around the crank gear.   The camshaft can easily be put 
back in time by matching up the timing marks on the crank and the cam 
when you get the new chain in.  As mentioned, if the cam is more than 
two teeth off you will experience valve contact with a piston.  Not to 
worry, just back the cam up two teeth and you should be able to 
continue.

NOTE:  I used a bungee cord fastened overhead to pull the old chain 
out.  Just stretch and rehook every foot or so.

Therefore, pull both both ends of the chain tight and continue with the 
install of the new chain.  You have at least a 95% chance of success.  
When you get both ends of the new chain visible you can hook both ends 
together over the cam gear.

If you are able to turn the engine, get it to the TDC mark on the 
crankshaft.  Then verfiy the timing marks have lined up  on the 
camshaft.  You may have to remove the cam gear to correct this, 
hopefully it is out only 1 or two teeth.

With both sets of the factory timing marks aligned, at TDC, and the 
tensioner reinstalled, you should be able check for mechanical 
interference by turning the engine over manually through at least two 
revolutions.
both sets of timing marks should now line up each TWO revolutions.

ALways rotate the engine in a direction that would tighten the 
crankshaft nut!

Start it up!

Jim in Phoenix



td

-Original Message-
From: Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Sent: Sat, 12 Jul 2008 11:43 am
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Timing chain problem

Archer wrote:
> No, it goes over the engine at a sharp angle and the chain stays in 
contact
> with the cam.

The chain you're feeding in needs to keep the cam in time.
The chain that's coming out needs to stay tight or it can jam.
Are you doing both of these things?
Some guys will go as far as to string the outfeed to the ceiling under 
tension,
and tie the infeed to the cam, stopping every cam sprocket hole to 
untie it from
one hole and tie to another hole.

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Re: [MBZ] Cheap 1995 Mercedes-Benz E-Class 300D

[Gary Hurst]

i guess cheap is relative as that's quite a lot of money for a high mileage
13 year old car that isn't running because of major engine damage.

luckily i can fix it in an afternoon with a leatherman

On Sat, Jul 12, 2008 at 2:16 PM, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160259533873
>
> Mileage:259,000 miles
>
> Location:   Marietta, GA
>
> Unfortunately, this car has developed a hole in the cylinder head in
> cylinder #6.  The car starts and can move under its own power but cannot
> be driven any distance as it uses water too rapidly.  I simply don't have
> an opportunity to fix this car at the moment.  I have identified sources
> for replacement cylinder heads from $600 to $725 dollars.  For a skilled
> mechanic this is a 4 to 6 hour repair with only a few basic tools.
>
>
> 
>
> Somehow I think that last sentence is not quite accurate!
>
>
> Craig
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Cheap 1995 Mercedes-Benz E-Class 300D

[Bill R]

Don't those cylinders come in weight-matched sets?  Wouldn't replacing just
one cause eventual problems with the engine?
BillR

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 2:17 PM
To: mercedes
Subject: [MBZ] Cheap 1995 Mercedes-Benz E-Class 300D

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160259533873

Mileage:259,000 miles
 
Location:   Marietta, GA

Unfortunately, this car has developed a hole in the cylinder head in
cylinder #6.  The car starts and can move under its own power but cannot
be driven any distance as it uses water too rapidly.  I simply don't have
an opportunity to fix this car at the moment.  I have identified sources
for replacement cylinder heads from $600 to $725 dollars.  For a skilled
mechanic this is a 4 to 6 hour repair with only a few basic tools.




Somehow I think that last sentence is not quite accurate!


Craig






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Re: [MBZ] Timing chain problem

[Fmiser]

It seems than at Sat, 12 Jul 2008 09:08:04 -0700, Jim wrote:

> > The ends of the chains have nylon cords attached which go
> > through pulleys in the ceiling and have heavy weights
> > hanging on them to keep the chain ends tight.
> 
> This sounds fine for the tensioner side, but the other side
> needs to remain at normal tautness _around_ the cam sprocket
> in order to keep the engine perfectly in time as you feed the
> chain.  I don't see how the ceiling rig would keep the
> camshaft in time too, doesn't it want to pull the chain
> largely away from the cam sprocket?.
> 
> -- Jim

When I did mine, I built a wooden chain guide that made it
fairly easy to keep the old and new chain engaged with the cam
sprocket. I'm attaching a photo to the email.

--   Philip
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Re: [MBZ] W140 Diesel Project In St. Loius

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

what did it say, its flagged for removal.

Rick Knoble wrote:
> http://stlouis.craigslist.org/car/752254410.html
> 
> Not Mine, No Affiliation, ect.
> 
> Rick Knoble
> '87 190DT
> '85 300CD
> 
> ___
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> 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.4.7/1546 - Release Date: 7/11/2008 
> 6:47 AM
> 
> 
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
  89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com

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[MBZ] W140 Diesel Project In St. Loius

[Rick Knoble]

http://stlouis.craigslist.org/car/752254410.html

Not Mine, No Affiliation, ect.

Rick Knoble
'87 190DT
'85 300CD

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Re: [MBZ] Timing chain problem

[LarryT]

My experience is on a 240D - but they are pretty similar -

Set the crank on TDC and the cam to it's TDC mark also - the trick is 
keeping the IP drive turning with the crank while you do all this. The case 
of the engine is pretty snug against the IP drive preventing the TC from 
jumping a IP drive tooth but a little slack and the chain can drop off the 
bottom of the crank gear/

Once the crank and cam and both at TDC things should be easy to align and to 
feed the chain.

If by chance (doubtful tho) the IP gets a tooth offf you'll have to pull it 
out somewhat - back toward the driver - then set the crank to the proper 
position (check before removing the IP) then find the punch marks on the IP 
and reinstall it.

But its doubtful the chain cam off the IP drive.

Have fun -

Larry T (66 MGB, 74 911, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
800-583-8601
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs



- Original Message - 
From: "Archer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 11:22 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Timing chain problem


>
> From: "Peter Frederick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> You MUST rotate the camshaft along with the crank.  You are hitting a
>> valve -- this is an interference engine.  You can remove the rockers
>> if you want to do what you are doing, but the correct way is to keep
>> BOTH ends of the chain on the cam sprocket as you rotate the engine
>> with the crank pulley (not the PS pump pulley).
>>
>> You will have the injection pump out of time if you're not careful.
>> and the engine will not rotate at all unless the cam is operating the
>> valves along with the crank.
>> Peter
> ---
> I marked the position of the masterlink on the camshaft sprocket, held up
> the chain, and turned the sprocket around.  It let the crankshaft turn
> freely for a longer distance.  I put the masterlink back on the mark and 
> it
> was back to the old stopping point.  I must have let the chain slip on the
> cam sprocket or even the crankshaft sprocket.  Now what do I do?  I have 
> the
> CD for the car if you can suggest which jobs to look for.
> Thanks,
> Gerry
>
>
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[MBZ] Green slime

[Wilton Strickland]

'Did not hafta pump up the slimed tire on the Deere today.

Wilton

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Re: [MBZ] math question for you smart folks

[Luther]

Don, find some flood silt.  Free, good draining properties, and fresh 
nutrients.  can't beat it.

Luther

-Original Message-
From: Fmiser <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2008 5:24 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] math question for you smart folks

It seems than at Fri, 11 Jul 2008 13:46:52 -0500, Wonko wrote:

> We have a new planter here at work. Five feet diameter, just
> over one foot deep.
> 
> Volume please?

Volume of a cylinder is area of the base times the height.

So 2.5ft (radius of 5ftc diameter) squared times pi = 24.67
square feet.

That times the height of 1 ft is 24.67 cubic feet.

That equals...

184.5 US gallons
698.5 liters
47243 tablespoons (US)
0.91 cubic yards
698,576 cubic centimeter
19.82 bushels (US)
79.3 peck (US)

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Timing chain problem

[Mitch Haley]

Archer wrote:
> No, it goes over the engine at a sharp angle and the chain stays in contact 
> with the cam. 

The chain you're feeding in needs to keep the cam in time.
The chain that's coming out needs to stay tight or it can jam.
Are you doing both of these things?
Some guys will go as far as to string the outfeed to the ceiling under tension, 
and tie the infeed to the cam, stopping every cam sprocket hole to untie it 
from 
one hole and tie to another hole.

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Re: [MBZ] Be Careful Voting this year

[Mitch Haley]

LarryT wrote:

> Have heard nothing about Nader, Barr or R Paul -- 

I assume by October you'll be hearing about two of those.
Dr. Paul is done, except for his Congressional race (some of the Rs want to 
dump 
him in the August primary) and whatever leverage he can apply to McLame at the 
RNC.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Another cheap 300TD

[Mitch Haley]

Gary Hurst wrote:
> if the rear suspension hasn't been butchered, someone needs to jump all over
> this one

Don can drive the Quantum out there, meet Curt on the Cape, and Curt can drive 
the Quantum home. Then Deb can kill Don when he gets home with the diesel wagon.

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Re: [MBZ] 4 lanes in small towns, was bikes something or other

[Fmiser]

It seems than at Sat, 12 Jul 2008 09:17:56 -0500, Dan wrote:

> 
> On Jul 12, 2008, at 7:00 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> 
> > Small town don't have 4-lane anything. Yours must be a
> > "small-ish" town.
> >
> > --  Philip
> 
> Not it Iowa, Phillip. There are towns with only one paved
> road--the county highway that passes through--and it widens
> out to 4 lanes for three blocks through "town" so through
> traffic doesn't have to slow down. It's a rural midwest thing.
> I've been to Don's town, and yes, it's small.
> 
> Dan

I'm _in_ the rural mid-west. I know of many towns with a
population of greater than 4000 and more than 3 traffic lights
that don't have anything bigger than 2+center-turn-lane. 

So maybe it's an Iowa thing.

Except I'm thinking of a number of Iowa towns that have been
only just recently been bypassed by a 4-lane that didn't have
four lane streets - on the US highway passing through. Thought
now the 4-lane, limited access highway is 1/2 mile outside of
town. Anyway.

-- Philip

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Is this a good deal? (Honda CB750)

[Fmiser]

It seems than at Sat, 12 Jul 2008 09:31:50 -0400, Mitch wrote:

> Curt Raymond wrote:
> > I doubt he survived that one... Sometimes I still picture
> > him lying on my tarp. I ALWAYS remember him when I put on my
> > riding coat. Joe Rocket, heavy kevlar with leather padding
> > where it counts and a ceramic spine protector.
> 
> We can't idiot-proof the world, our attempts just help spawn
> bigger idiots. It's my opinion that the bottom 5% of the
> population have to find some way to kill themselves off for
> the good of human evolution, and no amount of helmet laws,
> seat belt laws, war on drugs, etc, will stop them from doing
> it.

Are you trying to say there is such thing as
_personal_responsibility_??!?

Like _I_ am to blame for my actions and choices!!!?!!

Wow! What a concept!

-- Philip

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[MBZ] Cheap 1995 Mercedes-Benz E-Class 300D

[Craig McCluskey]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160259533873

Mileage:259,000 miles
 
Location:   Marietta, GA

Unfortunately, this car has developed a hole in the cylinder head in
cylinder #6.  The car starts and can move under its own power but cannot
be driven any distance as it uses water too rapidly.  I simply don't have
an opportunity to fix this car at the moment.  I have identified sources
for replacement cylinder heads from $600 to $725 dollars.  For a skilled
mechanic this is a 4 to 6 hour repair with only a few basic tools.




Somehow I think that last sentence is not quite accurate!


Craig






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Re: [MBZ] And then there is: 1995 Mercedes-Benz E-Class DIESEL

[Craig McCluskey]

On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 11:39:45 -0600 Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> Mileage:  212,232 miles
>  
> Location: Houston,Texas
> 
> 
> Which is at $2,850.00 now ...


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220256016659


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 1993 Mercedes-Benz 300-Series 93 300D 2.5T

[Craig McCluskey]

On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 11:37:49 -0600 Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> Only 9,600 Carfax Certified One Owner Miles
> 
> Possibly The Nicest One In The World
>   
>   Rare And Desirable! 
>   Just Serviced and Inspected
> 
> 
> And at $16,766.99 now ...

Silly me! I forgot the link!


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260257285530


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Somebody Is Looking For This?

[Tom Hargrave]

Nice car and probably worth every penny.



Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Rick Knoble
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 12:18 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Somebody Is Looking For This?

http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/car/751950290.html

1964 Mercedes 220SE 

Not Mine, No Affiliation, ect.

Rick Knoble
'87 190DT
'85 300CD

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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.526 / Virus Database: 270.4.8/1547 - Release Date: 7/11/2008
6:05 PM
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.526 / Virus Database: 270.4.8/1547 - Release Date: 7/11/2008
6:05 PM
 


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[MBZ] And then there is: 1995 Mercedes-Benz E-Class DIESEL

[Craig McCluskey]

Mileage:212,232 miles
 
Location:   Houston,Texas


Which is at $2,850.00 now ...



Craig

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[MBZ] 1993 Mercedes-Benz 300-Series 93 300D 2.5T

[Craig McCluskey]

Only 9,600 Carfax Certified One Owner Miles

Possibly The Nicest One In The World

Rare And Desirable! 
Just Serviced and Inspected


And at $16,766.99 now ...


Craig

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[MBZ] Somebody Is Looking For This?

[Rick Knoble]

http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/car/751950290.html

1964 Mercedes 220SE 

Not Mine, No Affiliation, ect.

Rick Knoble
'87 190DT
'85 300CD

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Re: [MBZ] Cheap dented 400E in NJ

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

yea, supposedly, but I have run regular in it and I cant tell any 
difference.  Although I do usually run premium.  Even at that, its still 
about the same or cheaper to drive it than, say, a SDL

Craig McCluskey wrote:
> On Fri, 11 Jul 2008 20:36:01 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin"
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
>> http://tulsa.craigslist.org/car/750229564.html
> 
> The fuel gauge says, "PREMIUM UNLEADED FUEL ONLY." Is that what it really
> takes?
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
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> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.4.7/1546 - Release Date: 7/11/2008 
> 6:47 AM
> 
> 
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
  89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] math question for you smart folks

[Luther]

2.5x2.5x3.14=19.6 or 20 

-Original Message-
From: Jay Slater <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2008 1:57 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] math question for you smart folks

Or 20. It could also be about 20.

On Fri, Jul 11, 2008 at 2:55 PM, Wonko the Sane <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Thanks
>
> On Fri, Jul 11, 2008 at 1:54 PM, Jay Slater <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > ~62 cu. ft.
> >
> > On Fri, Jul 11, 2008 at 2:46 PM, Wonko the Sane <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > We have a new planter here at work. Five feet diameter, just over one
> > foot
> > > deep.
> > >
> > > Volume please?
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > LT Don
> > > http://don.homelinux.net/~don/  <
> http://don.homelinux.net/%7Edon/> <
> > http://don.homelinux.net/%7Edon/>
> > >
> > > apt-get update
> > > apt-get upgrade
> > > The following packages will be replaced
> > > Prez
> > > Do you want to continue? [Y/n] Y
> > > ___
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> > >
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> >
>
>
>
> --
> LT Don
> http://don.homelinux.net/~don/ 
>
> apt-get update
> apt-get upgrade
> The following packages will be replaced
> Prez
> Do you want to continue? [Y/n] Y
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Re: [MBZ] Cheap dented 400E in NJ

[Allan Streib]

Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:

> The fuel gauge says, "PREMIUM UNLEADED FUEL ONLY." Is that what it
> really takes?

AFAIK all Merdedes gassers call for premium.

-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Door locks: DONE

[Wilton Strickland]

'Zackly what I thought.  I vaguely remember that I had the tumblers out of a
123 cylinder years ago and that they came out very easily.  'Had no doubt
that you'd be able to "make up" a good assembly.  BTW, remind me, are the
tumblers pins or wafers?

'Glad you were able to do it.

Wilton

- Original Message -
From: "Curt Raymond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Diesel List" 
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 11:45 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Door locks: DONE


> Got Wilton's package yesterday, thank you sir!
>
> Turns out the lock tumblers basically fall out of the cylinder when
everything isn't all jammed up. So I cut my old driver's side cylinder apart
(finished cutting anyway, I'd started last week. Cleaned each tumbler good
with a wire wheel and 400 grit sandpaper.
> Interestingly my tumblers didn't fit in Wilton's cylinder the same as they
fit in mine, odd... I had to use a mixture of his and mine to make it work.
Never the less we got there.
> So based on what I now know I realized the lock I'd already "freed up" was
only set to fail again. So I took it apart once more and freed ALL the
tumblers rather than just the 6 that came easily. Then took them out and
cleaned 'em real good. I don't know what MB used in these for lube but its
yellow and grease like and mine had picked up lots of dirt and turned into
concrete. I sanded the cylinder and tumblers with 600grit to make it all
work perfectly smooth and then lubed with graphite from a spray can (its in
some kind of carrier).
>
> So the locks are DONE. The doors still need to be buttoned up, they need
moisture barriers too. I want to hold off on the drivers door as I haven't
tested for vacuum leaks there yet. I already did the passenger's side.
>
> Out of time though, gotta go to a barbeque.
>
> -Curt
>
>
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Cheap dented 400E in NJ

[Craig McCluskey]

On Fri, 11 Jul 2008 20:36:01 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> http://tulsa.craigslist.org/car/750229564.html

The fuel gauge says, "PREMIUM UNLEADED FUEL ONLY." Is that what it really
takes?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Timing chain problem

[Archer]

From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> The ends of the chains have nylon cords attached which go through
>> pulleys in the ceiling and have heavy weights hanging on them to
>> keep the chain ends tight.
>
> This sounds fine for the tensioner side, but the other side needs
> to remain at normal tautness _around_ the cam sprocket in order to
> keep the engine perfectly in time as you feed the chain.  I don't
> see how the ceiling rig would keep the camshaft in time too, doesn't
> it want to pull the chain largely away from the cam sprocket?.
> -- Jim
> ___
No, it goes over the engine at a sharp angle and the chain stays in contact 
with the cam.  The pulley is attached to the ceiling about 4' from the right 
side of the car.  Some way or other the cam must have got out of synch with 
the crankshaft.  I'm guess that I'll probably have to put the scale on the 
vibration damper at zero, the camshaft lined up with the notch, and then 
learn how to set the injection pump.
Gerry 


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Re: [MBZ] Timing chain problem

[Chuck Landenberger]

Gerry,

My timing chain experience!  I was replacing the timing chain on my  
'80 300SD at a Saturday Tech Session at a dealership many years  
ago...  I dropped  a link (took off one of the visegrips early).  A  
Tech then came to my rescue.  He removed the vacuum pump and used a  
gallon plastic bottle he had cut so it could be inserted between the  
chain and crank sprocket.  He was able to get the chain off the crank  
sprocket and pull it back up into proper position.  Neither the cam  
sprocket or the crank sprocket had been rotated, so engine started  
and ran well when everything was put back together. Also replaced the  
spring and tensioner.  He earned a good tip that day!

Good luck,

Chuck
Phoenix AZ
On Jul 12, 2008, at 8:22 AM, Archer wrote:

>
> ---
> I marked the position of the masterlink on the camshaft sprocket,  
> held up
> the chain, and turned the sprocket around.  It let the crankshaft turn
> freely for a longer distance.  I put the masterlink back on the  
> mark and it
> was back to the old stopping point.  I must have let the chain slip  
> on the
> cam sprocket or even the crankshaft sprocket.  Now what do I do?  I  
> have the
> CD for the car if you can suggest which jobs to look for.
> Thanks,
> Gerry
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] manifold heat insulation wrap

[LarryT]

checked my Summit catalog and they offer several wraps with all made by 
"Thermo Tec"  They offer a clamp on and adhesive - which kink did you use? 
What brand?  How long did it take?

I'm considering it for several of my cars as IMO heat under the hood causes 
a lot of damage to rubber components, etc and anything done to reduce it 
(Thermo Tec says it will reduce underhood temps up to 70%)  will extend the 
life of many parts --

Thx for the feedback -

Larry T (66 MGB, 74 911, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
800-583-8601
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- Original Message - 
From: "Mak" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2008 3:44 AM
Subject: [MBZ] manifold heat insulation wrap


> Quite impressed with the manifold heat insulation wrap. the underhood temp
> has gone down and the fan hardly comes on. The car seems to run cooler 
> too.
>
> mak
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Kaw triples, was is this a good deal

[Craig McCluskey]

On Fri, 11 Jul 2008 22:41:45 CDT "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> A fiend has an H1 kaw, otherwise known as the widowmaker that is much
> lighter and more powerful..i won't even get on itlol

While in college ('70 to '71), I rode a friend's H1. Quite a machine. I
was warned beforehand that it had a lot of power. I didn't get close to
half throttle riding around Pasadena. That was enough.

I thought I would do him a favor and filled it up with regular gas ...


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Timing chain problem

[Jim Cathey]

> The ends of the chains have nylon cords attached which go through
> pulleys in the ceiling and have heavy weights hanging on them to
> keep the chain ends tight.

This sounds fine for the tensioner side, but the other side needs
to remain at normal tautness _around_ the cam sprocket in order to
keep the engine perfectly in time as you feed the chain.  I don't
see how the ceiling rig would keep the camshaft in time too, doesn't
it want to pull the chain largely away from the cam sprocket?.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Be Careful Voting this year!

[LarryT]

andrew S wrote <> humanity.  There were several candidates who simply exuded an aura of
>> evil>>

Exactly my thoughts about obama - why can't more people see it?  

Larry T (66 MGB, 74 911, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
800-583-8601
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs



- Original Message - 
From: "Alex Chamberlain" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2008 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Be Careful Voting this year!


> On Thu, Jul 10, 2008 at 7:33 AM, Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> andrew strasfogel wrote:
>>> Watching a Republican debates was like a visit to the darker side of
>>> humanity.  There were several candidates who simply exuded an aura of
>>> evil (Duncan Hunter and Tancredo, e.g.)
>>
>> Hunter and Tancredo? I thought you were talking about Rudy and Romney.
> 
> "Aura of evil" is right.  Romney has reminded me since the first time
> I saw him of Martin Sheen's politician character in the old Stephen
> King movie _The Dead Zone._  (A charismatic sociopath who starts WWIII
> for the fun of it.)  I'm voting for McLame this fall as a vote against
> Obama, but I don't know what I'll do if Romney is the Republican veep
> pick.  No way I want that guy one step away from the hot seat.
> 
> Alex
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Be Careful Voting this year

[LarryT]

along those same lines, I heard yesterday Ralph Nader is coming to town to 
try to get people to vote for him.  I remember when he announced but after 
that absolutely nothing - the media has pretty much shutdown al the 3rd 
party candidates.  I thought there was something that required equal time 
for all candidates?

Have heard nothing about Nader, Barr or R Paul -- 

Larry T (66 MGB, 74 911, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
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- Original Message - 
From: "Wonko the Sane" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2008 8:41 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Be Careful Voting this year


>I like the way you're thinking of voting. Take lots of friends and have 
>them
> vote same way as you. And thank you for 'your support.'
>
> On Thu, Jul 10, 2008 at 1:08 PM, LarryT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> I think the arguments about McC. not being qualified might work when
>> talking
>> about his Senate race wy back when - it doesn't hold water as pres
>> after
>> this amount of time.
>>
>> Given the choices, I am considering the 3rd party choice of Bob Barr -his
>> website shows he's rasied a little less than $1/2 million -  not even
>> peanuts when you consider hillary raised ~$30 mil in the primaries.
>>
>> I know all the rammifications of voting for a conservative 3rd party
>> candidate and the potential damage it can to do McCain and the help it 
>> will
>> give obama - but a lot of people are getting behind Barr -
>>
>> It's a shame the media doesn't act professionally and present him as a
>> potential choice instead of ignoring him completely.
>>
>> Larry T (66 MGB, 74 911, 91 300D)
>> www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
>> Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
>> PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
>> 800-583-8601
>> Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
>>
>>
>>
>> - Original Message -
>> From: "Donald Snook" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: 
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 10:10 AM
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Be Careful Voting this year
>>
>>
>> > "Unfortunately, I probably have more management experience than 
>> > McCain --
>> > and I'd hardly think I was qualified to run a nation.
>> > I fall back on what someone recently said -- getting your jet shot out 
>> > of
>> > the sky does not qualify you to be President. ... I went through the 
>> > very
>> > same flight training program in Pensacola as McCain. I flew in the same
>> > squadron. He beat me to retirement by two ranks."
>> >
>> > How about 30 years of experience in the Congress/Senate?  How about 
>> > being
>> > a senior Senator serving on some of the most important committees and
>> > being apprised of classified secrets and consulting with four different
>> > presidents on matters of national security.
>> >
>> > This argument that McCain is not qualified to be president is totally
>> > ridiculous! He has decades of experience.  The argument is especially
>> > ridiculous when you consider the alternative.  A State legislator who
>> > voted "present" on more votes in the Illinois legislature than any 
>> > other
>> > before him who then went on to win ONE statewide race for Senate. Then
>> > served for about 11 minutes before he started planning his run for
>> > president.
>> >
>> > Donald H. Snook
>> >
>> > http://www.mtsqh.com/
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ___
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>> >
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>>
>>
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>
>
>
> -- 
> LT Don
> http://don.homelinux.net/~don/
>
> apt-get update
> apt-get upgrade
> The following packages will be replaced
> Prez
> Do you want to continue? [Y/n] Y
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Re: [MBZ] Timing chain problem

[Archer]

Thanks, Kaleb.  I had the chain turn the cam, but I must have let it slip on 
the cam sprocket or the crank sprocket.
Gerry
-
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Unless you did it the proper way and had the chain also turn the cam as
> its going in, pistons will hit valves and prevent the engine from
> turning. You have to have the chain also turn the cam or remove the 
> lifters.
>
> Archer wrote:
>> When I started to feed the new chain into the engine on my '83 300D,  it
>> went about a quarter turn on the steering pump pulley and stopped with a
>> clunk; metal on metal.  I pulled on the chains to be sure there was no
>> slack, moved the camshaft pulley to be sure valves were not hitting the
>> pistons, and checked for any visible obstructions.
>> I then turned the pulley backwards while also turning the camshaft back. 
>> It
>> went back a quarter turn on the steering pump pulley and stopped with a
>> clunk; metal on metal.
>> The spring and chain tensioner have been removed, and I can't see any
>> obstruction when looking down in the engine.  The ends of the chains have
>> nylon cords attached which go through pulleys in the ceiling and have 
>> heavy
>> weights hanging on them to keep the chain ends tight.
>> When turning the crank between the two "stops", both chain ends move
>> normally; one up and one down.
>> Has anyone had this happen when installing a new chain?  Any ideas what 
>> it
>> might be?
>> Thanks,
>> Gerry


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[MBZ] Door locks: DONE

[Curt Raymond]

Got Wilton's package yesterday, thank you sir!

Turns out the lock tumblers basically fall out of the cylinder when everything 
isn't all jammed up. So I cut my old driver's side cylinder apart (finished 
cutting anyway, I'd started last week. Cleaned each tumbler good with a wire 
wheel and 400 grit sandpaper.
Interestingly my tumblers didn't fit in Wilton's cylinder the same as they fit 
in mine, odd... I had to use a mixture of his and mine to make it work. Never 
the less we got there.
So based on what I now know I realized the lock I'd already "freed up" was only 
set to fail again. So I took it apart once more and freed ALL the tumblers 
rather than just the 6 that came easily. Then took them out and cleaned 'em 
real good. I don't know what MB used in these for lube but its yellow and 
grease like and mine had picked up lots of dirt and turned into concrete. I 
sanded the cylinder and tumblers with 600grit to make it all work perfectly 
smooth and then lubed with graphite from a spray can (its in some kind of 
carrier).

So the locks are DONE. The doors still need to be buttoned up, they need 
moisture barriers too. I want to hold off on the drivers door as I haven't 
tested for vacuum leaks there yet. I already did the passenger's side.

Out of time though, gotta go to a barbeque.

-Curt



  
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