Hold the clutch (really big channel-locks work, or use an impact) and  
remove the 12mm bolt.  Pull the clutch plate off (it's usually sorta  
stuck).  Do not loose the shims!  Add or remove shims to set the gap.

Remove and take apart the connector (two screws , then it "unfolds"  
to release the wires -- you can probably leave it together).  Remove  
the two screws holding the plate the connector screws to, one of them  
holds the ground wire for the clutch coil.

Pull out the dust trap, noting which way it fits, then remove the  
snap ring that holds the clutch to the front of the compressor and  
slide it off.  Remember which way the snap ring fits, it's not flat.

Check the face of the clutch for damage and contamination -- a light  
pass with a flat stone won't hurt it a bit.

There are 5 bolts holding the front cover to the compressor -- your  
new seal kit will have seal washers.  Clean it up perfectly clean,  
and remove the snap ring holding the seal in.  If you have or can  
make the tools, you can pull the seal parts out and push the new ones  
in.  If not, remove the 5 bolts and the front cover comes off.  Press  
out the old parts, coat the new ones with clean compressor oil and  
install, then put the front cover back on.  Use the new circular seal  
that cam with the shaft seal -- it's not an o-ring.  VERY CAREFULLY  
torque down the bolts.  1/4 turn at a time after they touch, very  
evenly (you can distort the housing if you don't).  Re-install the  
clutch and you should be good to go.  Worked fine for me (and I've  
also re-sealed a compressor).  Make sure the snap ring retainer for  
the seal it seated correctly.

The deal with the mainfold o-rings is that they are NOT green --  
don't know what they are, but the black ones are for both R12 and  
R134a, and they have to be stuffed into the manifold, they look too  
big when you first try.  I suspect they are fluoropolymer, not  
whatever the green ones are, and the green ones I took out of the  
leaking compressor were flattened, hard, and cracked with obvious  
signs of hot gasses leaking past, cutting fissures.  Leads me to  
think that the $16 for o-rings might be a good value, considering the  
hassle of getting the compressor out of a W201.  Not horrible, but a  
wrestle.  Not as bad as from the wrecked W124 -- frame rail was  
shoved over a couple inches and I have to leave the bolts in, no room  
to pull them out,

Peter


On Jul 12, 2008, at 7:09 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

> OK, see where I can order one.  How do you get the clutch off?  Is it
> just one bolt or what?  Any special tools needed?
>
> Also, what is wrong with the green o rings?  That is what I used.  I
> just have a big variety pack of them.
>
> Peter Frederick wrote:
>> You can get a shaft seal from ACSource or Polarbear INC (I have one
>> sitting here waiting to go in my "new" compressor tomorrow).  It
>> comes with new bolt seals, you take fhe front cover off after
>> removing the clutch, push the old one out, new on in, reassemble.  If
>> you have the tools, you can pull the two part seal without taking the
>> front casting off, too, but I don't have them.
>>
>> A leaking front seal is the second most common compressor leak --
>> manifold set hoses and manifold to pump seals are first and second.
>> Don't use green o-rings for the compressor to manifold seal, either,
>> I just took out a set that are rough and hard, and also have fine
>> cracks on the faces.  The proper ones are $4 each, and have to be
>> forced into the seat in the manifold.  If they aren't tight enough,
>> they leak under pressure.
>>
>> Set the clutch gap while you are in there, too -- too wide, and it
>> slips and the KLIMA kicks off.
>>
>> Peter
>>
>>
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>>
>
> -- 
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
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