Re: [MBZ] $650 '87 300D

2009-10-11 Thread Joe Sasser

I missed the link for this CL listing. Does anybody have it handy?

Thanks

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Re: [MBZ] $650 '87 300D

2009-10-11 Thread Mitch Haley

Joe Sasser wrote:


I missed the link for this CL listing. Does anybody have it handy?


http://harrisburg.craigslist.org/cto/1384302941.html

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[MBZ] It's out!

2009-10-11 Thread Craig McCluskey
I finally got the power steering pump off our '94 E420!

The secret was taking the left cold air tube and plastic/rubber baffle off
in order to be able to see the offending last bolt. Once I could see it,
with the socket and extension routing tips I read on Peachtree, it wasn't
extraordinarily difficult.

Attached are some pictures of the power steering pump work.


Craig


P.S. Rusty! You will FINALLY be getting your core back! It's only been
since May ...


P.P.S In taking the bracket off I noticed that the high pressure hose from
  the pump was loose. Was this the culprit all along? Wouldn't that be
  a corker! Anyway, I have a new power steering pump; it IS going on.
  I'm wondering if I should change the hoses while I'm at it. Moral of
  the story: Check fittings first! Even those that should not possibly
  even be loose.

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Re: [MBZ] It's out!

2009-10-11 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

Now lets see if you can put it all back together again.

Craig McCluskey wrote:

I finally got the power steering pump off our '94 E420!

The secret was taking the left cold air tube and plastic/rubber baffle off
in order to be able to see the offending last bolt. Once I could see it,
with the socket and extension routing tips I read on Peachtree, it wasn't
extraordinarily difficult.

Attached are some pictures of the power steering pump work.


Craig


P


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] It's out!

2009-10-11 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 09:47:09 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
ka...@striplin.net wrote:

 Now lets see if you can put it all back together again.

Oh ye of little faith!


Craig

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[MBZ] Good deal on Delvac 1300

2009-10-11 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Oriellys has a sale on delvac 1300 right now, buy 1 gal at $12.99, get 
one free.  Great deal if you dont use synthetic.

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E,
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com
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[MBZ] people in Norman are on crack

2009-10-11 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1958-Mercedes-180_W0QQitemZ260489462902QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3ca661c476

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] It's out!

2009-10-11 Thread OK Don
Congratulations!

Though minor in comparison, I did an RR of the alternator on the kids 300E
yesterday - finally gave up and looked in the manual (CD) for instructions
on loosening the belt. One little (17mm) bolt lockes it. Totally different
than the 602 engines in the same chassis.

I do like the two part fan shroud! It also had to come out, but only the
front section.

After cleaning the slip rings, the new regulator/brushes worked, and the
alternator is charging the battery once again.

After years of driving my Diesels, she was surprised that the car wouldn't
run with a dead battery!

On Sat, Oct 10, 2009 at 11:22 PM, Craig McCluskey diese...@pisquared.netwrote:

 I finally got the power steering pump off our '94 E420!


 --
 OK Don
 CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
 distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
 others.
 The Devil's Dictionary
 Ambrose Bierce


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Re: [MBZ] people in Norman are on crack

2009-10-11 Thread WILTON

Literally, only a rusty sheet metal shell.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net

To: mercedes Mailing List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 12:45 PM
Subject: [MBZ] people in Norman are on crack



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1958-Mercedes-180_W0QQitemZ260489462902QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3ca661c476

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL, 
87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 
240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] people in Norman are on crack

2009-10-11 Thread OK Don
Well, SOME of us, anyway. There's a reason the State mental hospital is here
-

On Sun, Oct 11, 2009 at 11:45 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:


 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1958-Mercedes-180_W0QQitemZ260489462902QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3ca661c476

 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK



 --
 OK Don
 CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
 distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
 others.
 The Devil's Dictionary
 Ambrose Bierce


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Re: [MBZ] people in Norman are on crack

2009-10-11 Thread Rich Thomas
If it was like a 100 bucks it would be cool to turn into a hot rod.  
Like buy that guy's wrecked Ewhatever and transplant the good bits.


--R

OK Don wrote:

Well, SOME of us, anyway. There's a reason the State mental hospital is here
-

On Sun, Oct 11, 2009 at 11:45 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

  

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1958-Mercedes-180_W0QQitemZ260489462902QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3ca661c476

--
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--
OK Don
CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
others.
The Devil's Dictionary
Ambrose Bierce




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Re: [MBZ] people in Norman are on crack

2009-10-11 Thread OK Don
It would be cool if it had suicide doors -

On Sun, Oct 11, 2009 at 1:53 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 If it was like a 100 bucks it would be cool to turn into a hot rod.  Like
 buy that guy's wrecked Ewhatever and transplant the good bits.

 --R

 --
 OK Don
 CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
 distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
 others.
 The Devil's Dictionary
 Ambrose Bierce


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Re: [MBZ] Another Snooker Beemer

2009-10-11 Thread Donald Snook
Rich provided the following link:

http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/1414308254.html

You don't see many of these cars around.  I am referring to the fact that it is 
a 740I, but not the Long wheelbase.  Looks decent.  If the seller is referring 
to the heater pipes rather than the hose, I can understand why he is selling 
it.  It's a serious pain to replace those and potentially very expensive.  
Luckily, mine is not leaking.  The only coolant leak I had was the radiator 
which I replaced myself.

Donald H. Snook
1997 BMW 740IL
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[MBZ] 220D no start

2009-10-11 Thread Redghost
Gump  is being a turd.  The start cable fell off the  IP while I was  
out with flu and oldest boy drove.  He was not aware the cable had  
come detached and had trouble starting, but it would eventually light  
off.


I found out the cable was off, and proceeded to hook it back to the IP  
and now it is not willing to start when the knob gets pulled.  It will  
go to glow, but I am not able to pull it further so that it engages  
the start circuit.   I did learn that the knob mechanism is a three  
part system.  It first opens the fuel flow, then moves to engage the  
glow system.  Final position is to engage the starter.


What would work better would be a simple manual glow switch, and a  
push to start button.  Probably pain in the rear to figure out the way  
to cut into the circuits.


Anybody have advise on how to get Gump lit off?






--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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Re: [MBZ] 220D no start

2009-10-11 Thread Jim Cathey
I found out the cable was off, and proceeded to hook it back to the IP 
and now it is not willing to start when the knob gets pulled.  It will 
go to glow, but I am not able to pull it further so that it engages 
the start circuit.


That cable is adjustable, in some manner.  You need to
adjust it so that it has enough travel to hit the
starter contacts.

What would work better would be a simple manual glow switch, and a 
push to start button.  Probably pain in the rear to figure out the way 
to cut into the circuits.


Yeah, they combined all three systems on one easy-to-use knob.
Until it breaks, then it's a PITA.  But if you fix it right
you can go back to your nearly-unstealable stealth ignition
system.

-- Jim



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[MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-11 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Ok, so I measured to bores today with my HF electronic bore gauge.  Keep 
in mind I have never done this before, and not sure if I even did it 
right.  Here is what I did.  I set my HF digital caliper to the spec of 
the bore, approx 89.01.  With it set there bore gauge gives a base 
reading of - .424mm.  Below are the measuring points I took


1=bottom of cyl
2=middle of cyl
3=top of cyl
a=longitudinal
b=lateral

This is what I got for measurements.  On some of these, I took the same 
measurement SEVERAL times till I was able to somewhat repeat the 
results, all numbers are actually -(negative). 


Cylinder  #1  #2  #3
a b a  
b ab


#1   .418.410   .416  .410 
.422   .398
#2   .426.416   .422  .418 
.420   .418
#3   .426.422   .422  .420 
.420   .412

#4   .428   (not record) .420  .424 .412   .412
#5   .424.418   .420  .420 
.420   .420
#6   .426.426   .426  .428 
.414   .422


So, thats what I got.  Trying to figure out if any of this tells me if I 
have ovaled cylinders or not.  Basically the spec is 89.007-89.012, so 
we will say that the base setting of -.424 is 89.01, then the numbers 
listed above, such as the first one -.418, that measurement would be 
about .006 more than the base measurement of 89.01, correct?  Or is my 
math all wrong here.  Given the numbers above, and the fact that I am no 
expert, does it seem like I might have a problem?



--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] 220D no start

2009-10-11 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 16:30:42 -0700 Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
wrote:

 That cable is adjustable, in some manner.  You need to
 adjust it so that it has enough travel to hit the
 starter contacts.
   
 Yeah, they combined all three systems on one easy-to-use knob.
 Until it breaks, then it's a PITA.  But if you fix it right
 you can go back to your nearly-unstealable stealth ignition
 system.

Yeah, what he said.

With the dash knob pushed all the way in, the cable has to push on the
injection pump lever to stop the engine.

With the dash knob in the released position, the pin on the injection
pump lever should be somewhere in the slot on the fitting on the end of
the start cable.

With the dash knob in the start position, the pin on the injection pump
should be against the front end of the slot on the fitting on the end of
the start cable and pulled a little more back than its normal operating
position. This causes the injection pump to put out more fuel so the
starting is easier.

It's indeed possible to correctly adjust the cable. When it's correctly
adjusted, everything works as designed.

If this isn't enough information, I can look through my 1973 Chilton's and
see if it has more. I may even scan the pages, but later, because I don't
have time right now.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-11 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 18:31:42 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
ka...@striplin.net wrote:

 #1   .418.410   .416  .410 
 .422   .398
 #2   .426.416   .422  .418 
 .420   .418
 #3   .426.422   .422  .420 
 .420   .412
 #4   .428   (not record) .420  .424 .412  
 #.412 5   .424.418   .420  .420 
 .420   .420
 #6   .426.426   .426  .428 
 .414   .422
 
 Basically the spec is 89.007-89.012 ...  Given the numbers above, and
 the fact that I am no expert, does it seem like I might have a problem?

I'm not familiar with your measuring equipment, but if you look at the
changes in the numbers for each cylinder, you see that

#1 goes from 0.398 to 0.418, a change of 0.020.
#2 goes from 0.418 to 0.426, 0.008.
#3 goes from 0.412 to 0.426, 0.014.
#4 goes from 0.412 to 0.428, 0.016,
#5 goes from 0.418 to 0.424, 0.006.
#6 goes from 0.414 to 0.428, 0.014.

With the spec change of 0.005, all of your numbers are above that. Seems
to me like you have a problem.


Craig

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[MBZ] A few parts listed on ebay, trying to get myself back into it a little.

2009-10-11 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/okie-benz/m.html?_nkw=_armrs=1_from=_ipg=50_sop=1


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E,
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] Good deal on Delvac 1300

2009-10-11 Thread Mitch Haley

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Oriellys has a sale on delvac 1300 right now, buy 1 gal at $12.99, get 
one free.  Great deal if you dont use synthetic.


Is that the  O'Reillys from Ottumwa, IA?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Good deal on Delvac 1300

2009-10-11 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

I dont know, they have parts stores all over the place.

Mitch Haley wrote:

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Oriellys has a sale on delvac 1300 right now, buy 1 gal at $12.99, 
get one free.  Great deal if you dont use synthetic.


Is that the  O'Reillys from Ottumwa, IA?

Mitch.

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Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com



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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-11 Thread Mitch Haley

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

.422   .398


So, your bore gage reads in mm, and it does two point measuring so you can 
measure along the crank and across the crank?
And the above is the worst you have, with across the crank being .024mm wider? 
If that were .024, you'd have junk. .024mm is just under .001, which doesn't 
sound like much to me, but might be a lot for a diesel. I was recently looking 
at the spec on dad's 2 stroke outboard, and max out of round to reassemble 
without boring it was .003.


It did come out as expected/feared, with #1 being the most worn. Have you 
inspected #1 rod? Or at least put a depth gage on the piston tops?


Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] Good deal on Delvac 1300

2009-10-11 Thread Mitch Haley

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

I dont know, they have parts stores all over the place.



Walter (Radar) O'Reilly was from Ottumwa.
He tried to ship a Jeep home, piece by piece. Maybe he got into auto parts after 
 the war?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] SLS, was Re: Great car but it needs a motor

2009-10-11 Thread Rolf Martin-Hoster
I recently faced SLS failure leaking shocks etc. I ended up replacing 
the adjustable linkage on the valve and the spheres and all is well 
again. The valve needs to be rebuild as it does not fill or empty quite 
like it should but it makes for a smooth ride. Rusty @ buymbparts beat 
everyones prices by a good percentage.


-Rolf

Peter Frederick wrote:
I had to replace the accumulators on my 88 TE when I got it about 7 
years ago.  No work of any kind since -- holds oil, works prefectly.


Ride is great, so is handling, empty of fully loaded.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-11 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
No, have not put a depth guage on the piston tops, or inspected the 
rod.  I do not have a depth gauge, where would you get such an item?  
About the most I have checked on the deck height is when #1 is at the 
top, if you run your fingernail for example from piston to block, it 
will catch, on the others, it will catch when you go the other way from 
block to piston.  In other words, just from the naked eye, #1 does sit 
just a very very small amount lower than the rest.  If its enough to 
matter, I do not know.


Mitch Haley wrote:

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

.422   .398


So, your bore gage reads in mm, and it does two point measuring so you 
can measure along the crank and across the crank?
And the above is the worst you have, with across the crank being 
.024mm wider? If that were .024, you'd have junk. .024mm is just 
under .001, which doesn't sound like much to me, but might be a lot 
for a diesel. I was recently looking at the spec on dad's 2 stroke 
outboard, and max out of round to reassemble without boring it was .003.


It did come out as expected/feared, with #1 being the most worn. Have 
you inspected #1 rod? Or at least put a depth gage on the piston tops?


Mitch.


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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com



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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-11 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
BTW, yes, the gauge will read in inches or mm, and I took the across 
crank and with crank separately.


Mitch Haley wrote:

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

.422   .398


So, your bore gage reads in mm, and it does two point measuring so you 
can measure along the crank and across the crank?
And the above is the worst you have, with across the crank being 
.024mm wider? If that were .024, you'd have junk. .024mm is just 
under .001, which doesn't sound like much to me, but might be a lot 
for a diesel. I was recently looking at the spec on dad's 2 stroke 
outboard, and max out of round to reassemble without boring it was .003.


It did come out as expected/feared, with #1 being the most worn. Have 
you inspected #1 rod? Or at least put a depth gage on the piston tops?


Mitch.


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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com

-- next part --

Internal Virus Database is out of date.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.113/2400 - Release Date: 09/28/09 05:51:00

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Re: [MBZ] 220D no start

2009-10-11 Thread Loren Faeth
You need to loosen the clamp on the cable jacket at the IP, and slide 
the jacket toward the firewall enough so that it will hit the start 
position.  Probably 2-4 mm as a guess.  THat is the primary adjustment.


As for glow,  I have several times installed a secondary glow or 
starter switch.  Take a ford fender mounted starter relay.  (fairly 
easy to find at the junkyards 20 years ago.  Not sure if they still 
use them, but I think so)  Run a #10 wire (or fusable link) from the 
battery to the relay (mounted on the rear of the engine or on the 
firewall) large terminal (left, facing the two small terminals)  From 
the right large terminal, run a #10 wire to the (hot) terminal of the 
glow resistor if you have loop glow plugs.  (on a newer car, or one 
converted to pencil glow plugs, it goes to the terminal of the last GP)


Then run a wire from any suitable hot fused terminal (31, switched) 
to a pushbutton (NO) mounted under the dash, then back to the new 
starter relay left small terminal.  (single small terminal if your 
relay has only one small terminal.  In that case, the mounting of the 
relay is expected to provide a ground for the pilot circuit.)  From 
the second small terminal, run a wire to a good ground.


If/when you have doubts about the glow switch working, you can try 
the secondary circuit.  It it starts from that one, you know you have 
a problem in the glow switch circuit.


My escort Diesel developed a problem in the switch/relay.  Rather 
than spend days tracking down an intermittent problem in the winter. 
I rigged up the push button circuit in a mcparts lot when it was 20 
below.  It only took me 30 min or so, and I did all the wiring I 
could inside the idling car.  Then I went out and installed it.  Not 
fun at 20 below.  Much better than spending days trying to fix an 
intermittent.


You can hear the relay engage.

I've also used a secondary pushbutton circuit to troubleshoot starter 
switch/starter solenoid problems.   for that, you don't need the 
relay, just the pushbutton pilot circuit.





At 05:18 PM 10/11/2009, you wrote:

Gump  is being a turd.  The start cable fell off the  IP while I was
out with flu and oldest boy drove.  He was not aware the cable had
come detached and had trouble starting, but it would eventually light
off.

I found out the cable was off, and proceeded to hook it back to the IP
and now it is not willing to start when the knob gets pulled.  It will
go to glow, but I am not able to pull it further so that it engages
the start circuit.   I did learn that the knob mechanism is a three
part system.  It first opens the fuel flow, then moves to engage the
glow system.  Final position is to engage the starter.

What would work better would be a simple manual glow switch, and a
push to start button.  Probably pain in the rear to figure out the way
to cut into the circuits.

Anybody have advise on how to get Gump lit off?






--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] Good deal on Delvac 1300

2009-10-11 Thread Loren Faeth
I wish it were so.  Nope, they are from Arkieland.  Rumor I was told 
is that Some daughter and son in law of sam walton started autozone, 
and then got divorced.  she kept autozone, and he bought into a 
company with a few stores and built it into almost 
nationwide.  (Oreilly)  almost everyplace there is or was an 
autozone, you will find oreilly.  Now, there are more oreillys in the 
parts of the country I travel.


So, whether you by stuff from Wallyland, groceries, or autoparts, A 
LOT of the dollars in the US go to Arkieland.



At 08:13 PM 10/11/2009, you wrote:

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

I dont know, they have parts stores all over the place.



Walter (Radar) O'Reilly was from Ottumwa.
He tried to ship a Jeep home, piece by piece. Maybe he got into auto 
parts after  the war?

Mitch.

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Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-11 Thread Loren Faeth
If I am assessing your measurements correctly, you are getting 
readings under the nominal bore size?  (negative)  that seems 
odd.  If your numbers are in thousandths of a MM, then i think Mitch 
is right.  Probably not much to get worried about.  Can you see 
crosshatching on the cylinder walls?  if so, your bore is NOT 
worn.  If not, the bore is worn where the crosshatch is no longer evident.
I have never used digital gauges, butif it is worn badly, you should 
be able to tell with the naked eye.  if wear is only 0.020mm, or 
less, I don't see much concern.  THe ridge on the bore or 
the  crosshatch will tell you most of the story.


I know in the past, pistons were binned according to actual dia, and 
blocks were stamped with actual bore.  Thus, the actual bore was fit 
with a piston with the exact clearance.  My 621 short block was 
actually nominal .5mm overbore.  each hole was stamped something like 
,47 indicating  87.47 mm bore for a nominal 87.5 mm. the Piston tops 
were also stamped with the exact dia.   I don't know if they still 
use this practice.  If the deck of your block has numbers stamped by 
each hole, then pay attention, because that will tell you the exact 
bore size when it was new.


IMHO, you have a problem with a bent rod on #1.  It is bent enough so 
that I predict a short life after the engine is running again , if 
you don't address the #1 rod at least.  Seems to me what you describe 
is in the neighborhood of 0.010 inch or so, (maybe more) and that is a problem.


Until you can get the same measurement repeatedly, you have more 
gauge error or operator error than actual wear.  When I did 
compression tests on the SDL you now have, I used both an snappy 
gauge and the HF gauge until I was sure where the variation was 
coming from.  (carbon on valves and the HF gauge)  THen I settled on 
the Snappy gauge, and got consistent results.  (One place where the 
HF tool is not up to par.)  To be fair, my cheap one was from some 
online place, not HF, but the HF one at the time was essentially the 
same design.



At 10:12 PM 10/11/2009, you wrote:
No, have not put a depth guage on the piston tops, or inspected the 
rod.  I do not have a depth gauge, where would you get such an item?
About the most I have checked on the deck height is when #1 is at 
the top, if you run your fingernail for example from piston to 
block, it will catch, on the others, it will catch when you go the 
other way from block to piston.  In other words, just from the naked 
eye, #1 does sit just a very very small amount lower than the 
rest.  If its enough to matter, I do not know.


Mitch Haley wrote:

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

.422   .398


So, your bore gage reads in mm, and it does two point measuring so 
you can measure along the crank and across the crank?
And the above is the worst you have, with across the crank being 
.024mm wider? If that were .024, you'd have junk. .024mm is just 
under .001, which doesn't sound like much to me, but might be a 
lot for a diesel. I was recently looking at the spec on dad's 2 
stroke outboard, and max out of round to reassemble without boring 
it was .003.


It did come out as expected/feared, with #1 being the most worn. 
Have you inspected #1 rod? Or at least put a depth gage on the piston tops?


Mitch.


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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 
560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D 
euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com



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Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] It's out!

2009-10-11 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 13:15:02 -0500 OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

 Congratulations!

Thank you!


 Though minor in comparison, I did an RR of the alternator on the kids
 300E yesterday - finally gave up and looked in the manual (CD) for
 instructions on loosening the belt. One little (17mm) bolt lockes it.
 Totally different than the 602 engines in the same chassis.

Our E420 has a pivoting idler; put a wrench on the pivot, rotate the idler
away from the belt and remove the belt.


 I do like the two part fan shroud! It also had to come out, but only the
 front section.

Hmmm ... I've not seen one of those yet.


 After cleaning the slip rings, the new regulator/brushes worked, and the
 alternator is charging the battery once again.

Score one for the good guys! :-)


 After years of driving my Diesels, she was surprised that the car
 wouldn't run with a dead battery!

Imagine!


Craig

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[MBZ] PHX CL TD

2009-10-11 Thread Bob Rentfro
http://tucson.craigslist.org/cto/1415481148.html

Not bad...

Bob R
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