Re: [MBZ] ML320 status

2010-08-23 Thread Mitch Haley

OK Don wrote:

OK -= Peter wins the prize - the fans were not running.


No to slight Peter, who has contributed greatly to this thread, but
I wonder who said this back on the 11th?

Mitch Haley wrote:

If it worked great yesterday, either you lost charge overnight, or perhaps the 
fan doesn't draw air through the condenser and the high pressure switch shuts it 
down when the condenser hits critical temp. Or the expansion valve suddenly 
became stuck or clogged?


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[MBZ] Amsoil

2010-08-23 Thread Larry T
Hi Gang  -- 
   I know we beat this subject to death once in a while - sorry to mention 
it again.   M1 is getting harder and harder to find around here (Central Va) 
and I'm thinking about changing to Amsoil.  Especially since M1 went to 
5W-40 - I just don't like that low viscosity stuff.   For Diesels pre-07 
they offer a 15W40 which can go for 3X's the factory change interval. 
I'll probably go around 2X's the interval.


   I've tested some Amsoil thru my Oil Analysis business and it's always 
had excellent results.   One customer drivers a 18 wheeler Tractor with over 
400,000 miles on it and it still tests perfectly.  IIRC he changes the 
filter every other test.


   Have any of you had good experience using Amsoil?   Maybe we can limit 
the discussion to this topic?  ;-)  Thinking about using it in my '91 300D 
with 185K Miles 


Thx
LarryT
91 300D


 In God We Trust 



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Re: [MBZ] 300D no start after grease monkey messes with linkages

2010-08-23 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Fuse for the pre-glow relay failed, or the relay itself?

-Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rolf
Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2010 9:16 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300D no start after grease monkey messes with
linkages


  What year? Unhook the the linkage and see if it starts. If not try
pulling the vac line for the shutoff element. I'm pretty sure the FSM
will have the appropriate lengths...

http://w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/Index/602_603index.html

One thing about diesels, without all that elecltricals wizardry no
starts are alot easier to diagnose.

-Rolf


On 8/20/2010 8:19 PM, Hendrik  Fay wrote:

  I already told them off for using aerostart, anyone know what's
  going on here?

 This is on a W124, not sure which year. I am guessing the linkages 
 where not set properly and have asked for more information.

 Hendrik
 who don't know much about MB Diesel engines.


  Problem with 300D need advice
 http://ozbenz.net/viewtopic.php?f=6t=11081p=70735#p70687

 Post http://ozbenz.net/viewtopic.php?p=70687#p70687by *falco878
 http://ozbenz.net/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofileu=7368*  Fri Aug 
 20, 2010 1:34 pm

 I have a problem with my 300D. I need some direction on resolving.
 I had the glow plugs were working extremely intermittently so I 
 replaced them as a first step.
 This appeared to 'fix' the issue as the light came on when key was 
 turned and started easily.
 During normal driving in city traffic the throttle linkage failed - 
 broke completely, when car was being driven by wife.
 Duteously I went out and improvised the linkage connection with 
 fencing wire to get car home. This was successful.
 I then had a young mechanic purchase and replace the throttle
linkage.
 Since then the car has refused to start. We were initially able to 
 start it by squirting aerostart into air inlet, but even when engine 
 was hot it required application of areostart to start the engine. It 
 now refuses to start at all. I loosened one of injectors and cranked 
 the engine over, and small amount of diesel appears.

 What I am missing here ? Also if I need to have it taken to a shop, 
 can anyone recommend a good shop in the East/SE are of Melbourne.
 Thanks

 User avatar http://ozbenz.net/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofileu=7368
 falco878 http://ozbenz.net/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofileu=7368
*Posts:* 2
*Joined:* Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:17 pm

* Private message
 http://ozbenz.net/ucp.php?i=pmmode=composeaction=quotepostp=70687
* E-mail falco878
 http://ozbenz.net/memberlist.php?mode=emailu=7368

 Top http://ozbenz.net/viewtopic.php?f=6t=11081p=70735#wrap

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Re: [MBZ] New addition to the driveway

2010-08-23 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Lifter tick may be what you have, and the late Dr. M.B. often wrote that
M1 oil would usually quiet that down; that has been my experience.

-Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Tim C
Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 8:49 PM
To: Mercedes List
Subject: [MBZ] New addition to the driveway

The 240D hasn't left, but it's been replaced by an 87 300SDL.  310k,
maintenance records up to 290k (10 years ago).  Starts like a champ in
the nice warm weather, and more power than a 77 NA 300D - guess that
cylinder+turbo combo is good for something. :) Has a two-year-old head, 
cylinder+but
I forgot how to tell if it was a good one; kind of doubt they'd have put
a new bad one back on, though of course I'll check it out in the
morning.

Needs a new headlight, which I have, and some algae killer, which I also
have; a windshield and front seats, which I may wait to get from the
junkyard; and a bunch of maintenance items from Rusty, of course, for
which it shall wait.  I only have three days to get it past safety
inspection so that's my first goal. :)

Only odd things for which I presently seek counsel: 1) it ticks much
worse than my 300D (and the PO put silicon tape around one of the fuel
lines, guessing that's related), and 2) it idles at 2.5-ish bar when
slightly warm
- haven't gone hot yet.  The manual says it can drop to 0.3bar - is that
really true?

Anyway, I'm excited, it seems like a good car for the money, and exactly
what I wanted for size, comfort, and propulsion... as long as I can keep
it reliable for a while we're set! :) As always thanks for any advice.

Thanks,
-Tim
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Re: [MBZ] ML320 status

2010-08-23 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
I still don't like it sat at 30 for 5 minutes.  Next time (if there
is one) I recommend that you let it sit for at least 30 minutes, and
also did you change the receiver drier?

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of OK Don
Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2010 10:05 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] ML320 status

OK -= Peter wins the prize - the fans were not running. I chased down
the ufse box, and found the F44 (30A) runs the aux fans. It is clearly
blown - replaced it with the only 30A spare in the cover, and the AC
seems to be working fine now! Yea!

Re: para 1 below - after 2 hrs. of vacuum pumping, closed both valves,
and it sat at 30 for 5 minutes --

Thanks for the comprehensive write-up. This will be filed for reference!

On Sun, Aug 22, 2010 at 8:56 PM, Peter Frederick
psf...@earthlink.netwrote:

 I bought a gauge set a while back, and here's the way I do it.

 Vacuum applied via the center (yellow) hose with both high and low 
 (red and
 blue) valves open.  After an hour or so, close both valves and see 
 what the low side pressure reading does.  Must be at least 27 Hg, and

 stay there for at least half an hour with no needle movement.  If you 
 want to wait, it should hold with minimal change overnight, although 
 you may get some slight pressure from water diffusing out of the dryer

 material.  If it won't hold for 30 min with no change, it's not gonna 
 hold refrigerant, either.  May still leak under pressure but not vac,
but that's a different issue.

 Once you get it to hold a good vacuum, turn off the pump, attache your

 freon source (can or tank), pressurize the yellow line, then unscrew 
 it from the guage set enough to bleed air and freon off under 
 pressure.  30 sec of audible hiss is enough, you don't want to blow 
 the can out, just purge the air out of the line.  I then invert the 
 can and open the high pressure valve, allowing liquid freon to blow 
 into the high side.  Tons of room, after all, and you cannot get a
slug of liquid into the compressor that way.

 Close the high pressure valve and leave it shut.  Open the low 
 pressure side and start the engine and switch on the AC.

 Pressure should rise on the high side and plummet on the low, usually 
 drops well below 30 psi.  Close the lower pressure valve when it gets 
 low and the can is warm -- if it's freezing cold, you are still
boiling freon.

 Close the low pressure valve, remove the can, attach another one, then

 puncture the seal and pressurize the line.  Bleed off as for the first

 one, although if you are fast you won't need to .  You can also crack 
 the low pressure valve and bleed off at the can if you want.

 Open the low pressure valve and dip the can of freon in hot water.  
 This will boil the freon out MUCH faster than letting it get cold!

 High pressure side should start around 100 psi or so and climb as the 
 freon goes in.  Once you get to 275 or so the low pressure line should

 be cold (not frozen) and cool air should be coming out of the vents.  
 Won't be cold so long as you have freon in the can, usually 55 psi or 
 so.  Once that can is empty, the pressure should be around 250-275 on 
 the high side in the summer and the low side 34-45 psi.  You will get 
 decent cooling, but need to add more freon, usually I do a 
 guestimate partial can.  High side should be no more than 350 if you
have air flow, although it can climb above that.

 Fans come on around 275 or so, depending on temperature and
circulation.

 If the fans are not on and the high side is 450, you have a defective 
 high side switch or fan relay/fan/wiring.  I believe the newer ones 
 are high side safety, too, and will shut the compressor off if the 
 temp or pressure is too high, check the wiring diagram.

 If this is the case, you don't have anything wrong with the AC, you 
 have a bad fan cut-in switch, bad relay, or broken wire or dead fan.


 Peter

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--
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1991 300E (for sale)
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Amsoil

2010-08-23 Thread Mitch Haley

Larry T wrote:

   I've tested some Amsoil thru my Oil Analysis business and it's always 
had excellent results.   One customer drivers a 18 wheeler Tractor with 
over 400,000 miles on it and it still tests perfectly.  IIRC he changes 
the filter every other test.




I believe Amsoil is made by Mobil. I suspect that as M1 went from a group IV 
product to a group III/IV product that Amsoil may have stuck with group IV.


Your semi rig sounds like it's using some sort of depth filter and not changing 
the oil? Any oil would perform well when kept extremely clean (but if I were not 
planning on changing the oil, I'd use the best I could buy too).


Johnny Berryman became an Amsoil dealer when M1/Delvac1 became too much of a 
hassle to find several years ago when he was on this list or the Sexton list.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Amsoil

2010-08-23 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Larry - I've been thinking the same thing - if NAPA didn't have the M1
sale going on right now I'd be barking up the Amsoil tree.

Maybe you should become the distro agent for this list?

-Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Larry T
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 6:37 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Amsoil

Hi Gang  -- 
I know we beat this subject to death once in a while - sorry to
mention 
it again.   M1 is getting harder and harder to find around here (Central
Va) 
and I'm thinking about changing to Amsoil.  Especially since M1 went to 
5W-40 - I just don't like that low viscosity stuff.   For Diesels pre-07

they offer a 15W40 which can go for 3X's the factory change interval. 
I'll probably go around 2X's the interval.

I've tested some Amsoil thru my Oil Analysis business and it's
always 
had excellent results.   One customer drivers a 18 wheeler Tractor with
over 
400,000 miles on it and it still tests perfectly.  IIRC he changes the
filter every other test.

Have any of you had good experience using Amsoil?   Maybe we can
limit 
the discussion to this topic?  ;-)  Thinking about using it in my '91
300D with 185K Miles 

Thx
LarryT
91 300D


  In God We Trust 


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Re: [MBZ] Amsoil

2010-08-23 Thread Larry T

Hi Mitch -
Thanks for the comments -

BTW, What makes you think Amsoil is owned by M1?

Thanks
Larry
91 300D

In God We Trust

--
From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 7:59 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Amsoil


Larry T wrote:

   I've tested some Amsoil thru my Oil Analysis business and it's always 
had excellent results.   One customer drivers a 18 wheeler Tractor with 
over 400,000 miles on it and it still tests perfectly.  IIRC he changes 
the filter every other test.




I believe Amsoil is made by Mobil. I suspect that as M1 went from a group 
IV product to a group III/IV product that Amsoil may have stuck with group 
IV.


Your semi rig sounds like it's using some sort of depth filter and not 
changing the oil? Any oil would perform well when kept extremely clean 
(but if I were not planning on changing the oil, I'd use the best I could 
buy too).


Johnny Berryman became an Amsoil dealer when M1/Delvac1 became too much of 
a hassle to find several years ago when he was on this list or the Sexton 
list.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Amsoil

2010-08-23 Thread Brian Toscano
Amsoil was known to purchase some/all of their basestocks from Mobil.  I'd use 
the AME 15w-40 without hesitation.  I've used their products in the past.  Ran 
50,000 miles in a VW TDI without an oil change - just a bypass filter.

Brian
-Original Message-
From: Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net
Sender: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 08:03:53 
To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Amsoil

Hi Mitch -
Thanks for the comments -

BTW, What makes you think Amsoil is owned by M1?

Thanks
Larry
91 300D

In God We Trust

--
From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 7:59 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Amsoil

 Larry T wrote:

I've tested some Amsoil thru my Oil Analysis business and it's always 
 had excellent results.   One customer drivers a 18 wheeler Tractor with 
 over 400,000 miles on it and it still tests perfectly.  IIRC he changes 
 the filter every other test.


 I believe Amsoil is made by Mobil. I suspect that as M1 went from a group 
 IV product to a group III/IV product that Amsoil may have stuck with group 
 IV.

 Your semi rig sounds like it's using some sort of depth filter and not 
 changing the oil? Any oil would perform well when kept extremely clean 
 (but if I were not planning on changing the oil, I'd use the best I could 
 buy too).

 Johnny Berryman became an Amsoil dealer when M1/Delvac1 became too much of 
 a hassle to find several years ago when he was on this list or the Sexton 
 list.

 Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Amsoil

2010-08-23 Thread Mitch Haley

Larry T wrote:

Hi Mitch -
Thanks for the comments -

BTW, What makes you think Amsoil is owned by M1?


Made by Mobil for Amsoil, which has no production facility.

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Re: [MBZ] Amsoil

2010-08-23 Thread Larry T

Hi Max -
Good idea -

I'm thinking about that - their oil is not cheap and becoming a distr helps 
a bit - I think the per/qt prices drops ~$2.  for distributors -


I could become a distributor and sell to the members of this list with a 
$1/qt discount.  I'd make $1 and ya'll would save $1.  My meager profit 
would pay the yearly distributor fee...


Hm.

Take care -- 
Larry



In God We Trust

--
From: Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310 
meade.m.dil...@navy.mil

Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 8:00 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Amsoil


Larry - I've been thinking the same thing - if NAPA didn't have the M1
sale going on right now I'd be barking up the Amsoil tree.

Maybe you should become the distro agent for this list?

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Larry T
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 6:37 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Amsoil

Hi Gang  -- 
   I know we beat this subject to death once in a while - sorry to

mention
it again.   M1 is getting harder and harder to find around here (Central
Va)
and I'm thinking about changing to Amsoil.  Especially since M1 went to
5W-40 - I just don't like that low viscosity stuff.   For Diesels pre-07

they offer a 15W40 which can go for 3X's the factory change interval.
I'll probably go around 2X's the interval.

   I've tested some Amsoil thru my Oil Analysis business and it's
always
had excellent results.   One customer drivers a 18 wheeler Tractor with
over
400,000 miles on it and it still tests perfectly.  IIRC he changes the
filter every other test.

   Have any of you had good experience using Amsoil?   Maybe we can
limit
the discussion to this topic?  ;-)  Thinking about using it in my '91
300D with 185K Miles 

Thx
LarryT
91 300D


 In God We Trust


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Re: [MBZ] Amsoil

2010-08-23 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
If the price is right, I need about 16 qts/year.

-Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Larry T
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 8:19 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Amsoil

Hi Max -
Good idea -

I'm thinking about that - their oil is not cheap and becoming a distr
helps a bit - I think the per/qt prices drops ~$2.  for distributors -

I could become a distributor and sell to the members of this list with a
$1/qt discount.  I'd make $1 and ya'll would save $1.  My meager profit
would pay the yearly distributor fee...

Hm.

Take care --
Larry


In God We Trust

--
From: Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310 
meade.m.dil...@navy.mil
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 8:00 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Amsoil

 Larry - I've been thinking the same thing - if NAPA didn't have the M1
 sale going on right now I'd be barking up the Amsoil tree.

 Maybe you should become the distro agent for this list?

 -Max

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
 [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Larry T
 Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 6:37 AM
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: [MBZ] Amsoil

 Hi Gang  -- 
I know we beat this subject to death once in a while - sorry to
 mention
 it again.   M1 is getting harder and harder to find around here
(Central
 Va)
 and I'm thinking about changing to Amsoil.  Especially since M1 went
to
 5W-40 - I just don't like that low viscosity stuff.   For Diesels
pre-07

 they offer a 15W40 which can go for 3X's the factory change interval.
 I'll probably go around 2X's the interval.

I've tested some Amsoil thru my Oil Analysis business and it's
 always
 had excellent results.   One customer drivers a 18 wheeler Tractor
with
 over
 400,000 miles on it and it still tests perfectly.  IIRC he changes the
 filter every other test.

Have any of you had good experience using Amsoil?   Maybe we can
 limit
 the discussion to this topic?  ;-)  Thinking about using it in my '91
 300D with 185K Miles 

 Thx
 LarryT
 91 300D


  In God We Trust


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Re: [MBZ] Amsoil

2010-08-23 Thread Mitch Haley

Larry T wrote:

I could become a distributor and sell to the members of this list with a 
$1/qt discount.  I'd make $1 and ya'll would save $1.  My meager profit 
would pay the yearly distributor fee...


Do they drop-ship cases? Somebody buys a case of 4 gallons or whatever, and you 
have Amsoil ship it straight to them so you don't have to pay for shipping to 
you and to the end user?


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Re: [MBZ] Amsoil

2010-08-23 Thread Brian Toscano
Yes to drop ship.  The cost of a 6 month dealer membership is $10 and for a 
year is $20.  You can buy it online with your order.  I think AME 15w40 came 
out to a cost of $24-25/gal when I considered it about 2 weeks ago.

Brian
-Original Message-
From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
Sender: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 08:39:37 
To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Amsoil

Larry T wrote:

 I could become a distributor and sell to the members of this list with a 
 $1/qt discount.  I'd make $1 and ya'll would save $1.  My meager profit 
 would pay the yearly distributor fee...

Do they drop-ship cases? Somebody buys a case of 4 gallons or whatever, and you 
have Amsoil ship it straight to them so you don't have to pay for shipping to 
you and to the end user?

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Re: [MBZ] ML320 status

2010-08-23 Thread Donald Snook
Ok Don wrote:

Latest update - the AC still doesn't work. I ordered a new expansion valve amd 
reciever/dryer from Rusty, installed them today with new o-rings, pulled a 
vacuum for two hours, then added 24+ oz. of new R134a. It still does the same 
on for a few seconds, then off again. The pressures are reading 70-80 on the 
low side, and 400-450 on the high side. I don't know why the high side is up 
that much. I might break down and take it to someone who works on these 
regularly.


My indy was telling me about problems he was having with these cars and a/c.  I 
will call him this morning and ask him about this.

Donald H. Snook

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Re: [MBZ] Amsoil

2010-08-23 Thread Mitch Haley

Brian Toscano wrote:

Yes to drop ship.  The cost of a 6 month dealer membership is $10 and for a 
year is $20.  You can buy it online with your order.  I think AME 15w40 came 
out to a cost of $24-25/gal when I considered it about 2 weeks ago.



Cool. I'm happy with the $15-17 I've been paying for 5W40 Mobil at a local store 
this summer, but if I really wanted the best, or lived in one of the 40 states 
that don't have Meijer stores, I'd be interested in $24 Amsoil.


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Re: [MBZ] ML320 status

2010-08-23 Thread Donald Snook
Ok Don wrote: OK -= Peter wins the prize - the fans were not running. I chased 
down the ufse box, and found the F44 (30A) runs the aux fans. It is clearly 
blown - replaced it with the only 30A spare in the cover, and the AC seems to 
be working fine now! Yea! Re: para 1 below - after 2 hrs. of vacuum pumping, 
closed both valves, and it sat at 30 for 5 minutes -- Thanks for the 
comprehensive write-up. This will be filed for reference!

All right, nevermind.  It sounds like you fixed it!


Donald H. Snook

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Re: [MBZ] Amsoil

2010-08-23 Thread Larry T
Hi Max -- 
The 15W40 Syn Oil for older Diesels (pre-2007)  is what I plan to use for my 
'91 300D.   The price per qt looks like $8.35 retail, $6,35 my cost (as 
distributor), $7.35 your cost before shipping.  They also sell filters but 
they only have Mann filters for us - our normal source may work better 
(Rusty)  The Mann filters are $9.10 through Amsoil - will have to look at 
Rustys site to see price for his filters - ut IIRC they are cheaper.


But the big advantage of Amsoil is a quality product and consistant 
inventory.


Shipping is priced per pound.

Will let everyone know if I sign up as a Distributor  --

Take care -
LarryT
91 300D


In God We Trust

--
From: Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310 
meade.m.dil...@navy.mil

Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 8:27 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Amsoil


If the price is right, I need about 16 qts/year.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Larry T
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 8:19 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Amsoil

Hi Max -
Good idea -

I'm thinking about that - their oil is not cheap and becoming a distr
helps a bit - I think the per/qt prices drops ~$2.  for distributors -

I could become a distributor and sell to the members of this list with a
$1/qt discount.  I'd make $1 and ya'll would save $1.  My meager profit
would pay the yearly distributor fee...

Hm.

Take care --
Larry


In God We Trust

--
From: Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310
meade.m.dil...@navy.mil
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 8:00 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Amsoil


Larry - I've been thinking the same thing - if NAPA didn't have the M1
sale going on right now I'd be barking up the Amsoil tree.

Maybe you should become the distro agent for this list?

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Larry T
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 6:37 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Amsoil

Hi Gang  -- 
   I know we beat this subject to death once in a while - sorry to

mention
it again.   M1 is getting harder and harder to find around here

(Central

Va)
and I'm thinking about changing to Amsoil.  Especially since M1 went

to

5W-40 - I just don't like that low viscosity stuff.   For Diesels

pre-07


they offer a 15W40 which can go for 3X's the factory change interval.
I'll probably go around 2X's the interval.

   I've tested some Amsoil thru my Oil Analysis business and it's
always
had excellent results.   One customer drivers a 18 wheeler Tractor

with

over
400,000 miles on it and it still tests perfectly.  IIRC he changes the
filter every other test.

   Have any of you had good experience using Amsoil?   Maybe we can
limit
the discussion to this topic?  ;-)  Thinking about using it in my '91
300D with 185K Miles 

Thx
LarryT
91 300D


 In God We Trust


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Re: [MBZ] OT - Sony GDM 20SE2T monitor available

2010-08-23 Thread Rolf
 Oy vey my back is acing just thinking about these. I had to pull 12 of 
these out of a wall, across drafting desks when I did some contract work 
for Southern Company. Even with two people the bulk of these, across the 
desk.  Ow my back They really are top of the line, for color clarity 
unmatched on any LCD, these things are awesome!


-Rolf

On 8/22/2010 5:45 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:

Anyone interested in a 1995-era Sony 20 display that takes both BNC and VGA 
inputs?  I have the original box and manual.  The left upper may be a bit 
non-perfect but it works and syncs to anything I've ever tried to use it with - Sun, 
SGI, PC's etc.  Its just to big to keep around.  My use of workstations at home has 
ended and if I was going to replace it, I'd get some kind of flat panel.  Free to 
anyone who pays shipping.  I think its about 80 lbs.

Regards,
Brian

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Re: [MBZ] Amsoil

2010-08-23 Thread Jim Cathey

The price per qt looks like $8.35 retail,


That's about what I paid per gallon for Delo last time.
Just change it more often...

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 300D no start after grease monkey messes with linkages

2010-08-23 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Fri, Aug 20, 2010 at 5:19 PM, Hendrik  Fay heni...@ozemail.com.au wrote:
 During normal driving in city traffic the throttle linkage failed - broke
 completely, when car was being driven by wife.
 Duteously I went out and improvised the linkage connection with fencing wire
 to get car home. This was successful.

Those plastic throttle linkages on the OM60x engines are crap, to put
it nicely, and fencing wire is probably an improvement.  I doubt
that's the problem.  But there are lots of other important goodies in
the same area of the engine that the suspect mechanic might have
knocked loose or adjusted out of ignorance.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Sony GDM 20SE2T monitor available

2010-08-23 Thread Alex Chamberlain
I miss CRTs designed to sync to any resolution you fed them within
reasonable parameters, like the original 15 NEC MultiSync which
worked so well with the early Amigas and their weird video hardware.
LCDs are an improvement in some ways, but not in the ghastly scaling
that they try to do when you drive them at a non-native resolution.

Alrc

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[MBZ] OT: malware contributes to airplane crash

2010-08-23 Thread Allan Streib
http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/38790670/ns/technology_and_science-security/?gt1=43001

I'm not happy to see that there apparently is not some kind of tripwire-type 
alert if the avionics software has unauthorized modifications.

This is going to start happening on cars too.  Some malware will get introduced 
into a service computer at a dealership and then be spread to every vehicle 
that gets connected to it.

Makes me glad to own a car without such nonsense.

Allan
--
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] New speakers

2010-08-23 Thread R A Bennell
Yes, more or less. There are small grills on each kick panel in front and 
similar on the back window ledge. There
is a grill in the center of the dash too but I really have no idea if there is 
a speaker in it or not on my car.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 8:07 AM
To: Diesel List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] New speakers


Rears are easy because you can always make the hole bigger...
Crutchfield says 5 1/4 same as the '78...

They don't specify fronts and I don't know enough about 115s, I thought there 
was a big center speaker. If there
are also side speakers they're probably 4 but you can just measure the grill 
and see whats close...


-Curt

Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 20:43:19 -0500
From: R A Bennell b...@mts.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] New speakers
Message-ID: nhbblomcoljnegblbjcpeeapoiaa@mts.net
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=iso-8859-1

Ok, my 76 115 300D needs speakers (and the radio installed since it now has a 
hole in the dash where it is supposed
to be) but the speakers appear to be pretty small - at least in the front. I 
have wondered how easy it will be to
find replacement.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 2010 5:41 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] New speakers


Dwight's '78 240D. I got the same size as the ones that were in it (that I 
don't think were original, theres no
center control so I'm wondering if this had rear speakers) so it was a very 
easy swap.

A week or so ago I'd swapped the 6 Alpines from Hammie in to see if the rear 
channel worked at all. The channel
did but those speakers had about had it...

-Curt




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Re: [MBZ] New addition to the driveway- M1 oil

2010-08-23 Thread R A Bennell
Another oil question. I don't see much in heavier oil grades here but if I go 
south of the border, I see M1 in
heavier grades like 15-50 (I think - if my memory is OK) or 15-40 but it does 
not seem to indicate that it is for
diesels. I also saw M1 that said it was for turbo diesel trucks but I think it 
was something like 5-40.

Do I dare use either o these in my old 115 non-turbo diesel? So far, I am just 
sticking with Rotella but I read
somewhere that it is really not all that wonderful.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of Dillon, Meade M CIV
SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 5:34 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] New addition to the driveway


Lifter tick may be what you have, and the late Dr. M.B. often wrote that
M1 oil would usually quiet that down; that has been my experience.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Tim C
Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 8:49 PM
To: Mercedes List
Subject: [MBZ] New addition to the driveway

The 240D hasn't left, but it's been replaced by an 87 300SDL.  310k,
maintenance records up to 290k (10 years ago).  Starts like a champ in
the nice warm weather, and more power than a 77 NA 300D - guess that
cylinder+turbo combo is good for something. :) Has a two-year-old head,
cylinder+but
I forgot how to tell if it was a good one; kind of doubt they'd have put
a new bad one back on, though of course I'll check it out in the
morning.

Needs a new headlight, which I have, and some algae killer, which I also
have; a windshield and front seats, which I may wait to get from the
junkyard; and a bunch of maintenance items from Rusty, of course, for
which it shall wait.  I only have three days to get it past safety
inspection so that's my first goal. :)

Only odd things for which I presently seek counsel: 1) it ticks much
worse than my 300D (and the PO put silicon tape around one of the fuel
lines, guessing that's related), and 2) it idles at 2.5-ish bar when
slightly warm
- haven't gone hot yet.  The manual says it can drop to 0.3bar - is that
really true?

Anyway, I'm excited, it seems like a good car for the money, and exactly
what I wanted for size, comfort, and propulsion... as long as I can keep
it reliable for a while we're set! :) As always thanks for any advice.

Thanks,
-Tim
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Re: [MBZ] OT - Sony GDM 20SE2T monitor available

2010-08-23 Thread John Reames
Yep. You can pry a working Sony gdm-w900 from my dead hands (unless I can find 
a gdm-fw900 to replace it...)

--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Aug 23, 2010, at 10:08, Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:

 I miss CRTs designed to sync to any resolution you fed them within
 reasonable parameters, like the original 15 NEC MultiSync which
 worked so well with the early Amigas and their weird video hardware.
 LCDs are an improvement in some ways, but not in the ghastly scaling
 that they try to do when you drive them at a non-native resolution.
 
 Alrc
 
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Re: [MBZ] New addition to the driveway- M1 oil

2010-08-23 Thread Mitch Haley

R A Bennell wrote:

Another oil question. I don't see much in heavier oil grades here but if I go 
south of the border, I see M1 in
heavier grades like 15-50 (I think - if my memory is OK) or 15-40 but it does 
not seem to indicate that it is for
diesels. I also saw M1 that said it was for turbo diesel trucks but I think it 
was something like 5-40.

Do I dare use either o these in my old 115 non-turbo diesel? So far, I am just 
sticking with Rotella but I read
somewhere that it is really not all that wonderful.


5w40 TDT is supposed to be the same as Delvac One, one of the best synthetic 
lubes for heavy duty diesels. Way above spec for a car that asks for SE-CC or 
SE-CD. I've been buying it at Meijer for as little as $16 a gallon on sale this 
summer. ($19.99 sale price on a day I had a coupon for $4 off any item priced 
19.97 or higher)


15w50 Mobil One, extended performance or regular, is good stuff too. Exceeds the 
diesel ratings that were in effect when your car was made.


Multiple listers have reported excessive noise or oil consumption when using 
thinner than 5w40, like the much vaunted 0w40 for example.


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Re: [MBZ] New addition to the driveway- M1 oil

2010-08-23 Thread R A Bennell
Thanks for your input. Mobile 1 was something like $21 in Fargo Wal Mart. I 
bought a couple of jugs of 5-20 to use
in my F150 but did not buy any for the  car. Will be in Grand Forks again in 
about a month so will pick some up
then if they have it on the shelf.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of Mitch Haley
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 9:07 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] New addition to the driveway- M1 oil


R A Bennell wrote:
 Another oil question. I don't see much in heavier oil grades here but if I go 
 south of the border, I see M1 in
 heavier grades like 15-50 (I think - if my memory is OK) or 15-40 but it does 
 not seem to indicate that it is for
 diesels. I also saw M1 that said it was for turbo diesel trucks but I think 
 it was something like 5-40.

 Do I dare use either o these in my old 115 non-turbo diesel? So far, I am 
 just sticking with Rotella but I read
 somewhere that it is really not all that wonderful.

5w40 TDT is supposed to be the same as Delvac One, one of the best synthetic
lubes for heavy duty diesels. Way above spec for a car that asks for SE-CC or
SE-CD. I've been buying it at Meijer for as little as $16 a gallon on sale this
summer. ($19.99 sale price on a day I had a coupon for $4 off any item priced
19.97 or higher)

15w50 Mobil One, extended performance or regular, is good stuff too. Exceeds the
diesel ratings that were in effect when your car was made.

Multiple listers have reported excessive noise or oil consumption when using
thinner than 5w40, like the much vaunted 0w40 for example.

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Re: [MBZ] 140 door panel removal

2010-08-23 Thread Thomas Savage

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

OK, how the heck do you remove the front door panels on a 140?



Abandon hope all ye who enter here.

Start by removing the screws at the latch cover, in the cutout on the 
top side of the armrest, and under the SRS tag on the door panel if you 
have one.


The  hard part is removing the wood panel that holds the seat adjustment 
buttons.  Take a metal putty knife (plastic will break) and slide it 
between the wood and leather at the rear edge, in the middle.  Slide it 
to the top and bottom to release the little tabs that hold it in place. 
 Remove the screws behind the panel and then you sort of have to lift, 
push, pull, rotate, and sweet talk the panel to get it loose.  Next, 
cuss as you break the plastic clips, and try again.


This is one job that will really make you miss the 123 era.

Tom
P.S. It's easy the second time around

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Re: [MBZ] 140 door panel removal

2010-08-23 Thread Rich Thomas

Because the tabs are broken off!

--R

On 8/23/10 1:01 PM, Thomas Savage wrote:



The  hard part is removing the wood panel that holds the seat 
adjustment buttons.  Take a metal putty knife (plastic will break) and 
slide it between the wood and leather at the rear edge, in the 
middle.  Slide it to the top and bottom to release the little tabs 
that hold it in place.  Remove the screws behind the panel and then 
you sort of have to lift, push, pull, rotate, and sweet talk the panel 
to get it loose.  Next, cuss as you break the plastic clips, and try 
again.


This is one job that will really make you miss the 123 era.

Tom
P.S. It's easy the second time around




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Re: [MBZ] 140 door panel removal

2010-08-23 Thread Thomas Savage

Rich Thomas wrote:

Because the tabs are broken off!


Naw, you just won't sweat quite as many bullets the next time.  And who 
puts door panels back on with broken clips?  Any true Mercedes 
jaloponist keeps a stock of door panel clips on hand.  (M119 jaloponists 
will be wise to keep a spare ignition coil in the glovebox, too.)


Tom

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Re: [MBZ] New addition to the driveway

2010-08-23 Thread Rolf
I missed the beginning of this. The head number is easy enough its the 
3rd grouping of numbers on the side. #14 is bad, #22 is good. I love the 
603, so much more power than my 602. Mine needs new seats as well, I 
hear its pretty easy to pull the covers off and swap them. I would 
really like the 4 piece ones that were used in the 500E.


-Rolf

On 08/23/2010 07:33 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 
wrote:

Lifter tick may be what you have, and the late Dr. M.B. often wrote that
M1 oil would usually quiet that down; that has been my experience.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Tim C
Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 8:49 PM
To: Mercedes List
Subject: [MBZ] New addition to the driveway

The 240D hasn't left, but it's been replaced by an 87 300SDL.  310k,
maintenance records up to 290k (10 years ago).  Starts like a champ in
the nice warm weather, and more power than a 77 NA 300D - guess that
cylinder+turbo combo is good for something. :) Has a two-year-old head,
cylinder+but
I forgot how to tell if it was a good one; kind of doubt they'd have put
a new bad one back on, though of course I'll check it out in the
morning.

Needs a new headlight, which I have, and some algae killer, which I also
have; a windshield and front seats, which I may wait to get from the
junkyard; and a bunch of maintenance items from Rusty, of course, for
which it shall wait.  I only have three days to get it past safety
inspection so that's my first goal. :)

Only odd things for which I presently seek counsel: 1) it ticks much
worse than my 300D (and the PO put silicon tape around one of the fuel
lines, guessing that's related), and 2) it idles at 2.5-ish bar when
slightly warm
- haven't gone hot yet.  The manual says it can drop to 0.3bar - is that
really true?

Anyway, I'm excited, it seems like a good car for the money, and exactly
what I wanted for size, comfort, and propulsion... as long as I can keep
it reliable for a while we're set! :) As always thanks for any advice.

Thanks,
-Tim
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[MBZ] 81 300D filters FS

2010-08-23 Thread WILTON
I have 2 air filters and 2 oil filter cartridges left over from my 81 300D days 
- 'forgot to pass 'em along to buyer of the car.  'Ordered from Rusty; still in 
boxes, of course.  Somebody send me a check for $30 and I'll send, 'em to you   

Wilton Strickland
618 Park Ave.
Goldsboro, NC 27530
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Re: [MBZ] ML320 status

2010-08-23 Thread OK Don
Quite true, and I ignored it due to the statement on the last AC service
that the expansion valve needed to be replaced -

On Mon, Aug 23, 2010 at 2:14 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 OK Don wrote:

 OK -= Peter wins the prize - the fans were not running.


 No to slight Peter, who has contributed greatly to this thread, but
 I wonder who said this back on the 11th?


 Mitch Haley wrote:

 If it worked great yesterday, either you lost charge overnight, or perhaps
 the fan doesn't draw air through the condenser and the high pressure switch
 shuts it down when the condenser hits critical temp. Or the expansion valve
 suddenly became stuck or clogged?

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-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1991 300E (for sale)
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] ML320 status

2010-08-23 Thread OK Don
The FSM mentions an upgraded wiring harness for the fans, should the fuse
blow too often. I need to see it this car was upgraded or not - shouldn't be
hard, as they ran it parallel to the orginal, and tape it to the original
wires!

The radiator was replaced in the last year, so I hope it's not too buggy ---
shouldn't be too much work to remove the fans and clean behind them though.
Probably need to do it on all the cars .

On Sun, Aug 22, 2010 at 9:17 PM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.netwrote:

 If the fan fuse blows again, replace the fan, too!  Check to make sure it's
 not got a ton of smashed bugs behind the hub, that can drag on it something
 terrible.  Also look for fun things like a dropped putty knife stopping the
 fan -- I did that once, great fun pulling up to customs with the radiator
 boiling merrily!


 Peter


-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1991 300E (for sale)
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] ML320 status

2010-08-23 Thread OK Don
Haste makes Waste.  - yes, usually I wait hours to watch for leaks, but I
was hot and anxious.
Yes - I also replaced the reciever/dryer, actually more work than the
expansion valve due to location. I read in the FSM that this dryer has a
molecular screen that lets refrigerent pass, but water molecules are too
large!

On Mon, Aug 23, 2010 at 6:52 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,
53310 meade.m.dil...@navy.mil wrote:

 I still don't like it sat at 30 for 5 minutes.  Next time (if there
 is one) I recommend that you let it sit for at least 30 minutes, and
 also did you change the receiver drier?

 -Max


-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1991 300E (for sale)
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] ML320 status

2010-08-23 Thread OK Don
So far, so good - it worked driving to work this AM, and taking the guys out
at lunch.

On Mon, Aug 23, 2010 at 7:52 AM, Donald Snook dsn...@mtsqh.com wrote:

 Ok Don wrote: OK -= Peter wins the prize - the fans were not running. I
 chased down the ufse box, and found the F44 (30A) runs the aux fans. It is
 clearly blown - replaced it with the only 30A spare in the cover, and the AC
 seems to be working fine now! Yea! Re: para 1 below - after 2 hrs. of vacuum
 pumping, closed both valves, and it sat at 30 for 5 minutes -- Thanks for
 the comprehensive write-up. This will be filed for reference!

 All right, nevermind.  It sounds like you fixed it!


 Donald H. Snook


-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1991 300E (for sale)
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] ML320 status

2010-08-23 Thread OK Don
I'm thinking that Marshall's advice still applies to these new fangled blade
fuses - I should just got ahead and replace all of them, BEFORE my pistons
melt!

On Mon, Aug 23, 2010 at 2:49 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

 So far, so good - it worked driving to work this AM, and taking the guys
 out at lunch.


 On Mon, Aug 23, 2010 at 7:52 AM, Donald Snook dsn...@mtsqh.com wrote:

 Ok Don wrote: OK -= Peter wins the prize - the fans were not running. I
 chased down the ufse box, and found the F44 (30A) runs the aux fans. It is
 clearly blown - replaced it with the only 30A spare in the cover, and the AC
 seems to be working fine now! Yea! Re: para 1 below - after 2 hrs. of vacuum
 pumping, closed both valves, and it sat at 30 for 5 minutes -- Thanks for
 the comprehensive write-up. This will be filed for reference!

 All right, nevermind.  It sounds like you fixed it!


 Donald H. Snook




-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1991 300E (for sale)
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] 81 300D filters FS

2010-08-23 Thread Mitch Haley

WILTON wrote:

I have 2 air filters and 2 oil filter cartridges left over from my 81 300D days 
-


So those are non-turbo air filters?

Mitch.

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[MBZ] W123 300D will not shut off unless passenger door is locked

2010-08-23 Thread Allan Streib
If I try to shut off the engine and the passenger door is unlocked, the engine 
does not quite shut off but instead goes into a  a violently shaking, barely 
running condition.  Also my door locks do not work unless the passenger door is 
locked.  So does this conclusively indicate the passenger door mechanism, or 
could it be some other component in that circuit?

Regardless of the passenger door lock, the system does not hold vacuum for more 
than a few seconds.  E.g. if I unlock the drivers door more then a few seconds 
after stopping the engine, none of the other doors unlock.

Allan
--
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] W123 300D will not shut off unless passenger door is locked

2010-08-23 Thread Dieselhead
Vacuum leak.  Plug the circuit under the driver floormat one at a 
time to isolate and identify where the leak is.  You can leave a golf 
tee in for a plug to close the leaking circuit until the repair is 
made.



If I try to shut off the engine and the passenger door is unlocked, 
the engine does not quite shut off but instead goes into a  a 
violently shaking, barely running condition.  Also my door locks do 
not work unless the passenger door is locked.  So does this 
conclusively indicate the passenger door mechanism, or could it be 
some other component in that circuit?


Regardless of the passenger door lock, the system does not hold 
vacuum for more than a few seconds.  E.g. if I unlock the drivers 
door more then a few seconds after stopping the engine, none of the 
other doors unlock.


Allan
--
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] 81 300D filters FS

2010-08-23 Thread WILTON

Yes, non-turbo.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 4:02 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 81 300D filters FS



WILTON wrote:
I have 2 air filters and 2 oil filter cartridges left over from my 81 
300D days -


So those are non-turbo air filters?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Retrofit glowplugs

2010-08-23 Thread Curt Raymond
I do but I'm considering how much fun it'll be dealing with old stiff wires 
compared to new ones...  The first step will be proving I can find the trigger 
wire from the ignition...

-Curt

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 20:56:50 -0600
From: Craig McCluskey diese...@pisquared.net
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Retrofit glowplugs
Message-ID: 20100822205650.e6ca1bdd.diese...@pisquared.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 18:03:25 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:
 http://www.buymbparts.biz/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1974-Mercedes---40d-Engine--Electricalyearid=1974%40%401974makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES%40%40Xmodelid=16075%3AED|1130%3AMBC|1488%40%40240Dcatid=240798%40%40Engine+Electricalsubcatid=240809@@Glow+Plug+Kitmode=PD

 That looks like just the ticket. Does it come with instructions?
 
 Looks as though I'd hook one wire to the clipped wire I've got on the
 firewall (switched power presumably) and the other to ground...

But you already have all the wiring and glow plug relay from Hammie,
don't you? Why not use that and just buy the correct glow plugs?


Craig


  
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Re: [MBZ] Amsoil

2010-08-23 Thread Curt Raymond
I've played with Amsoil oil and its fine, I hate their '70s pyramid marketing 
system...

I'd like to dispute your M1 assertion first, #1 they didn't Go to 5w40 both 
the 5w40 and 15w50 have been available for years.

#2 at operating temperature 5w40 and 15w40 are THE SAME. Thats what the w40 
means...

When the engine is cold 5w40 will flow to the bearings more quickly because its 
thinner than 15w40.

-Curt

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 06:36:50 -0400
From: Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Amsoil
Message-ID: 75a0585e5b924844afee23a386036...@laptop
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
    reply-type=original

Hi Gang  -- 
    I know we beat this subject to death once in a while - sorry to mention 
it again.   M1 is getting harder and harder to find around here (Central Va) 
and I'm thinking about changing to Amsoil.  Especially since M1 went to 
5W-40 - I just don't like that low viscosity stuff.   For Diesels pre-07 
they offer a 15W40 which can go for 3X's the factory change interval. 
I'll probably go around 2X's the interval.

    I've tested some Amsoil thru my Oil Analysis business and it's always 
had excellent results.   One customer drivers a 18 wheeler Tractor with over 
400,000 miles on it and it still tests perfectly.  IIRC he changes the 
filter every other test.

    Have any of you had good experience using Amsoil?   Maybe we can limit 
the discussion to this topic?  ;-)  Thinking about using it in my '91 300D 
with 185K Miles 

Thx
LarryT
91 300D




  
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Re: [MBZ] New addition to the driveway

2010-08-23 Thread Curt Raymond
I had that in my '85 190D 2.2l once. I forget what it had been in the shop for 
but it'd been started and shut off several times in quick succession. It was 
~10 miles before that lifter quieted down and that was a car I'd been using M1 
5w40 on for an extended interval at that time...
I suspect conventional oil would clear out lifter tick too if you took the car 
on a long enough drive...

-Curt

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 07:33:31 -0400
From: Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,    53310
    meade.m.dil...@navy.mil
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] New addition to the driveway
Message-ID:
    
1370e90cffd2ac4b8cb65267ba10c4b80369d...@naeachrlez02v.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil
    
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=US-ASCII

Lifter tick may be what you have, and the late Dr. M.B. often wrote that
M1 oil would usually quiet that down; that has been my experience.

-Max 


  
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Re: [MBZ] Amsoil

2010-08-23 Thread Curt Raymond
Isn't the change in M1's formulation an unfounded rumor? I seem to remember 
researching that some time ago (from another hotel room, I'm in Silver Spring, 
MD today) and having Mobil reply that M1 is a Group IV oil...

-Curt

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 07:59:03 -0400
From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Amsoil
Message-ID: 4c726287.7040...@voyager.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Larry T wrote:

    I've tested some Amsoil thru my Oil Analysis business and it's always 
 had excellent results.   One customer drivers a 18 wheeler Tractor with 
 over 400,000 miles on it and it still tests perfectly.  IIRC he changes 
 the filter every other test.
 

I believe Amsoil is made by Mobil. I suspect that as M1 went from a group IV 
product to a group III/IV product that Amsoil may have stuck with group IV.

Your semi rig sounds like it's using some sort of depth filter and not changing 
the oil? Any oil would perform well when kept extremely clean (but if I were 
not 
planning on changing the oil, I'd use the best I could buy too).

Johnny Berryman became an Amsoil dealer when M1/Delvac1 became too much of a 
hassle to find several years ago when he was on this list or the Sexton list.

Mitch.




  
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[MBZ] New CLS

2010-08-23 Thread E M
Some pics of the upcoming CLS.  I like some of the styling bits on it.  Not
so sure about the whole package, but I do like it, as I think it gives a
look at the design direction the next gen S Class may take.

http://www.conceptcarz.com/z18687/Mercedes-Benz-CLS-Class.aspx

Ed
300E
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Re: [MBZ] Amsoil

2010-08-23 Thread Curt Raymond
Week before last Car Quest had Buy 4 get one free on Mobil 1. It was (IIRC) 
$7.20 a quart but:
4x $7.20 = $28.80
But you really get 5 quarts so your actual price is
$28.80/5 = $5.76
Which is a per gallon price of $23.04

-Curt

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 08:51:51 -0400
From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Amsoil
Message-ID: 4c726ee7.6080...@voyager.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Brian Toscano wrote:

Yes to drop ship.  The cost of a 6 month dealer membership is $10 and
for a year is $20.  You can buy it online with your order.  I think AME
15w40 came out to a cost of $24-25/gal when I considered it about 2
weeks ago.


Cool. I'm happy with the $15-17 I've been paying for 5W40 Mobil at a local 
store 
this summer, but if I really wanted the best, or lived in one of the 40 states 
that don't have Meijer stores, I'd be interested in $24 Amsoil.



  
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Re: [MBZ] Amsoil

2010-08-23 Thread Curt Raymond
I was paying a little less for Car Quest house brand I was using in Hammie the 
'83 240D until a busted oil cooler line ended the low buck fun.
However in the winter time I was having the occasional iffy start. Dwight's 
240D (once I buy it) will get M1 5w40 for the winter to ensure easy peasy cold 
starts.

Oh, it'll get a block heater too, the 5w40 is for returning home...

-Curt

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 06:56:21 -0700
From: Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Amsoil
Message-ID: 35d1c1dc-aebe-11df-bf57-000502d9a...@windwireless.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

 The price per qt looks like $8.35 retail,

That's about what I paid per gallon for Delo last time.
Just change it more often...

-- Jim


  
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Re: [MBZ] 140 door panel removal

2010-08-23 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I got the door panel off the parts car yesterday with no problem once I 
discovered it pops off, instead of having to slide up like the 126.  I 
then discovered the window regular is RIVETED in. WTF?  I guess by then 
they really cheapened things down and riveted in.  I did a rear 
regulator on a 140 years ago, a 92, and I dont remember it being rivited in.


Thomas Savage wrote:

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

OK, how the heck do you remove the front door panels on a 140?



Abandon hope all ye who enter here.

Start by removing the screws at the latch cover, in the cutout on the 
top side of the armrest, and under the SRS tag on the door panel if 
you have one.


The  hard part is removing the wood panel that holds the seat 
adjustment buttons.  Take a metal putty knife (plastic will break) and 
slide it between the wood and leather at the rear edge, in the 
middle.  Slide it to the top and bottom to release the little tabs 
that hold it in place.  Remove the screws behind the panel and then 
you sort of have to lift, push, pull, rotate, and sweet talk the panel 
to get it loose.  Next, cuss as you break the plastic clips, and try 
again.


This is one job that will really make you miss the 123 era.

Tom
P.S. It's easy the second time around

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 
91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 
85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] New addition to the driveway- M1 oil

2010-08-23 Thread Curt Raymond
Any of the fancy names on any oil (Turbo Diesel Truck and Truck and SUV are 
a couple examples are just marketing BS, ignore them.

Marshall said, and MB's qualifications confirm, that there are 3 weights of M1 
considered acceptable in the 61x and 60x engines of the older cars (folks have 
been saying pre-07) they are, in increasing order of desirablity (Marshalls and 
my sentiment) oh and before anybody pitches a fit, yes I've tried all of them 
over many thousands of miles...:
0w40
15w50
5w40

I don't like the 0w40 as its so thin cold it'll tend to leak even in a 
relatively tight engine.
The 15w50 is a good (maybe even great) oil and is nice in a slightly leaky 
engine as it'll tend to leak less. I like it in a largely highway driven 616 
engine as 240Ds driven hard tend to consume some oil and they tend to do less 
with 15w50.

I like the 5w40 the most because it makes for easier cold starts in seriously 
(-10f or colder) cold temps. My '85 190D used mostly 5w40 over ~90,000 miles 
and ran just great, the rest of the car fell apart around the engine. The 0w40 
is probably better for extremely (-20f and colder) cold starts but even where I 
live thats only 1-2 times a year and 61x engines are going to be iffy at best 
starting that cold without auxiliary heat.
60x engines should still start at -20f without too much trouble and I consider 
the advantage in 0w40 outweighed by the disadvantage in leakage/consumption 
although I wouldn't hesitate to use it if 5w40 wasn't available.

-Curt

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 09:50:35 -0500
From: R A Bennell b...@mts.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] New addition to the driveway- M1 oil
Message-ID: nhbblomcoljnegblbjcpcecgoiaa@mts.net
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=iso-8859-1

Another oil question. I don't see much in heavier oil grades here but if I go 
south of the border, I see M1 in
heavier grades like 15-50 (I think - if my memory is OK) or 15-40 but it does 
not seem to indicate that it is for
diesels. I also saw M1 that said it was for turbo diesel trucks but I think it 
was something like 5-40.

Do I dare use either o these in my old 115 non-turbo diesel? So far, I am just 
sticking with Rotella but I read
somewhere that it is really not all that wonderful.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of Dillon, Meade M CIV
SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 5:34 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] New addition to the driveway


Lifter tick may be what you have, and the late Dr. M.B. often wrote that
M1 oil would usually quiet that down; that has been my experience.

-Max



  
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Re: [MBZ] New addition to the driveway- M1 oil

2010-08-23 Thread Curt Raymond
Oh one other note, 61x engines don't get the full advantage of  synthetic oil 
because they'll tend to hit 2% soot load (MB's measure for when the oil needs 
changing) before you can really extend the change interval all that much.
Such is not true with 60x engines. Last I tested the oil in my '85 190D was 
still considered good to go at 15,000 miles. I didn't want to spend a bunch of 
time testing so I stopped at 12,000 and called that good enough. Now with 2 new 
(to me) cars I get to play with testing all over again.

My '83 240D leaked badly so I ran the cheapest oil I could get (right at the 
end that was Car Quest house brand 15w40). Now having Dwights 240D I'll test 
and see how long the M1 15w50 in it right now can last.

-Curt



  
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Re: [MBZ] New addition to the driveway- M1 oil

2010-08-23 Thread Allan Streib
Regardless of claims that the 0W-40 and the 15W-40 are the same when hot, my 
experience is that the engine was much noisier when hot when I tried the 0W-40 
in my OM-617, it just sounded like the oil was thinner.  Idle pressure was a 
bit lower too, compared to 15W-40.

I like the 5W-40 also, but it's impossible to find around here, even in 
individual quarts, and forget about gallon or 5qt containers.  Even 15W-50 is 
enough of a bother than I've gone back to using Chevron Delo which is cheap and 
easy to find anywhere.

Allan


On Mon, 23 Aug 2010 14:22 -0700, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Any of the fancy names on any oil (Turbo Diesel Truck and Truck and
 SUV are a couple examples are just marketing BS, ignore them.
 
 Marshall said, and MB's qualifications confirm, that there are 3 weights
 of M1 considered acceptable in the 61x and 60x engines of the older cars
 (folks have been saying pre-07) they are, in increasing order of
 desirablity (Marshalls and my sentiment) oh and before anybody pitches a
 fit, yes I've tried all of them over many thousands of miles...:
 0w40
 15w50
 5w40
 
 I don't like the 0w40 as its so thin cold it'll tend to leak even in a
 relatively tight engine.
 The 15w50 is a good (maybe even great) oil and is nice in a slightly
 leaky engine as it'll tend to leak less. I like it in a largely highway
 driven 616 engine as 240Ds driven hard tend to consume some oil and they
 tend to do less with 15w50.
 
 I like the 5w40 the most because it makes for easier cold starts in
 seriously (-10f or colder) cold temps. My '85 190D used mostly 5w40 over
 ~90,000 miles and ran just great, the rest of the car fell apart around
 the engine. The 0w40 is probably better for extremely (-20f and colder)
 cold starts but even where I live thats only 1-2 times a year and 61x
 engines are going to be iffy at best starting that cold without auxiliary
 heat.
 60x engines should still start at -20f without too much trouble and I
 consider the advantage in 0w40 outweighed by the disadvantage in
 leakage/consumption although I wouldn't hesitate to use it if 5w40 wasn't
 available.

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Re: [MBZ] New addition to the driveway- M1 oil

2010-08-23 Thread Allan Streib
I meant 5W-40 where I wrote 15W-40 in the first paragraph below.

On Mon, 23 Aug 2010 17:31 -0400, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 Regardless of claims that the 0W-40 and the 15W-40 are the same when
 hot, my experience is that the engine was much noisier when hot when I
 tried the 0W-40 in my OM-617, it just sounded like the oil was thinner. 
 Idle pressure was a bit lower too, compared to 15W-40.
 
 I like the 5W-40 also, but it's impossible to find around here, even in
 individual quarts, and forget about gallon or 5qt containers.  Even
 15W-50 is enough of a bother than I've gone back to using Chevron Delo
 which is cheap and easy to find anywhere.
 
 Allan
 
 


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Re: [MBZ] Amsoil

2010-08-23 Thread Dieselhead
In theory you are right, that at operating temp, the oil should 
perform the same.


In practice, it is a little different.  The 0w-40 is made from a 
lower viscosity base than   the 15w-40.  0w-40 is thinner at Op temp, 
and tends to create more lifter noise on OM60x engines.   That is why 
Herr Doktor said not to use a 0w- or 5w- oil in OM60x or OM617 
engines.



I've played with Amsoil oil and its fine, I hate their '70s pyramid 
marketing system...


I'd like to dispute your M1 assertion first, #1 they didn't Go to 
5w40 both the 5w40 and 15w50 have been available for years.


#2 at operating temperature 5w40 and 15w40 are THE SAME. Thats what 
the w40 means...


When the engine is cold 5w40 will flow to the bearings more quickly 
because its thinner than 15w40.


-Curt

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 06:36:50 -0400
From: Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Amsoil
Message-ID: 75a0585e5b924844afee23a386036...@laptop
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
reply-type=original

Hi Gang  --
I know we beat this subject to death once in a while - sorry to mention
it again.   M1 is getting harder and harder to find around here (Central Va)
and I'm thinking about changing to Amsoil.  Especially since M1 went to
5W-40 - I just don't like that low viscosity stuff.   For Diesels pre-07
they offer a 15W40 which can go for 3X's the factory change interval.
I'll probably go around 2X's the interval.

I've tested some Amsoil thru my Oil Analysis business and it's always
had excellent results.   One customer drivers a 18 wheeler Tractor with over
400,000 miles on it and it still tests perfectly.  IIRC he changes the
filter every other test.

Have any of you had good experience using Amsoil?   Maybe we can limit
the discussion to this topic?  ;-)  Thinking about using it in my '91 300D
with 185K Miles 

Thx
LarryT
91 300D




 
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[MBZ] 94 S500 for sale cheap

2010-08-23 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
If anybody wants this thing make me an offer.  Thought I would put 
it out there in case anybody was interested before I put more work 
into it.


http://tulsa.craigslist.org/cto/1913527783.html


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] New addition to the driveway- M1 oil

2010-08-23 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Mon, Aug 23, 2010 at 2:22 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I don't like the 0w40 as its so thin cold it'll tend to leak even in a 
 relatively tight engine.

My experience too in a few different engines, both MB diesels and
lesser gassers.

If you don't want a new addition ON your driveway as well as TO the
driveway, avoid 0 weight anything.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Amsoil

2010-08-23 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Mon, Aug 23, 2010 at 1:58 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:
 I've played with Amsoil oil and its fine, I hate their '70s pyramid marketing 
 system...


I heard some grizzled old-timer at a hot rod show refer to it as
Amway oil once.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Sony GDM 20SE2T monitor available

2010-08-23 Thread LWB250
I have the Samsung equivalent of this monitor.  Bought it from a guy who sold 
refurb monitors at a local computer show back in 2003, I believe I paid $150.  
It is a beast of a monitor, but the clarity of the image can't be rivaled, IMHO.

Dan



--- On Mon, 8/23/10, Rolf r...@winmutt.com wrote:

 From: Rolf r...@winmutt.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Sony GDM 20SE2T monitor available
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Date: Monday, August 23, 2010, 9:49 AM
  Oy vey my back is acing just
 thinking about these. I had to pull 12 of these out of a
 wall, across drafting desks when I did some contract work
 for Southern Company. Even with two people the bulk of
 these, across the desk.  Ow my back They really are
 top of the line, for color clarity unmatched on any LCD,
 these things are awesome!
 
 -Rolf
 
 On 8/22/2010 5:45 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:
  Anyone interested in a 1995-era Sony 20 display that
 takes both BNC and VGA inputs?  I have the original box
 and manual.  The left upper may be a bit non-perfect
 but it works and syncs to anything I've ever tried to use it
 with - Sun, SGI, PC's etc.  Its just to big to keep
 around.  My use of workstations at home has ended and
 if I was going to replace it, I'd get some kind of flat
 panel.  Free to anyone who pays shipping.  I think
 its about 80 lbs.
  
  Regards,
  Brian
  
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Re: [MBZ] 140 door panel removal

2010-08-23 Thread John Reames
The 210's are too. And the door (inner panel) visibly flexes outwards when the 
window is fully closed...

--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Aug 23, 2010, at 17:21, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net wrote:

 I got the door panel off the parts car yesterday with no problem once I 
 discovered it pops off, instead of having to slide up like the 126.  I then 
 discovered the window regular is RIVETED in. WTF?  I guess by then they 
 really cheapened things down and riveted in.  I did a rear regulator on a 140 
 years ago, a 92, and I dont remember it being rivited in.
 
 Thomas Savage wrote:
 Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 OK, how the heck do you remove the front door panels on a 140?
 
 
 Abandon hope all ye who enter here.
 
 Start by removing the screws at the latch cover, in the cutout on the top 
 side of the armrest, and under the SRS tag on the door panel if you have one.
 
 The  hard part is removing the wood panel that holds the seat adjustment 
 buttons.  Take a metal putty knife (plastic will break) and slide it between 
 the wood and leather at the rear edge, in the middle.  Slide it to the top 
 and bottom to release the little tabs that hold it in place.  Remove the 
 screws behind the panel and then you sort of have to lift, push, pull, 
 rotate, and sweet talk the panel to get it loose.  Next, cuss as you break 
 the plastic clips, and try again.
 
 This is one job that will really make you miss the 123 era.
 
 Tom
 P.S. It's easy the second time around
 
 ___
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 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3089 
 - Release Date: 08/23/10 01:35:00
 
  
 
 -- 
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 
 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro 
 manny, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com
 
 ___
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Re: [MBZ] 140 door panel removal

2010-08-23 Thread Peter Frederick
Toxic byproduct of buying Chrysler, I think.  Learned all the worst  
possible assembly habits.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 140 door panel removal

2010-08-23 Thread Mitch Haley

Peter Frederick wrote:
Toxic byproduct of buying Chrysler, I think.  Learned all the worst 
possible assembly habits.


Not before 1998 they didn't.

DaimlerChrysler was founded in 1998 when Mercedes-Benz manufacturer Daimler-Benz 
(1926–1998) of Stuttgart, Germany merged with the US-based Chrysler Corporation. 
The deal created a new entity, DaimlerChrysler.


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Re: [MBZ] New CLS

2010-08-23 Thread OK Don
Hmmm - looks like a stretched out BMW Z4 with a Mercedes grill.

On Mon, Aug 23, 2010 at 4:04 PM, E M pokieba...@gmail.com wrote:

 Some pics of the upcoming CLS.  I like some of the styling bits on it.  Not
 so sure about the whole package, but I do like it, as I think it gives a
 look at the design direction the next gen S Class may take.

 http://www.conceptcarz.com/z18687/Mercedes-Benz-CLS-Class.aspx

 Ed
 300E




-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1991 300E (for sale)
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Amsoil

2010-08-23 Thread OK Don
I thought Herr Doktor siad the 5w-40 was fine, it was the 0W-40 that was not
recommended. I'm using the 5w-40 in my 60x engines, and have not experienced
lifter noise. I put 15w-50 in teh 300E to try to get the oil pressure
reading above 0 at a hot idle, but it made no difference.

I also remember that Amsoil is built on M1 stock, but with their won
additive package. I would not hesitate to use it ig it were more available
than M1.

On Mon, Aug 23, 2010 at 4:30 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 In theory you are right, that at operating temp, the oil should perform the
 same.

 In practice, it is a little different.  The 0w-40 is made from a lower
 viscosity base than   the 15w-40.  0w-40 is thinner at Op temp, and tends to
 create more lifter noise on OM60x engines.   That is why Herr Doktor said
 not to use a 0w- or 5w- oil in OM60x or OM617 engines.


-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1991 300E (for sale)
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] New addition to the driveway- M1 oil

2010-08-23 Thread Allan Streib
Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com writes:

 On Mon, Aug 23, 2010 at 2:22 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I don't like the 0w40 as its so thin cold it'll tend to leak even in a 
 relatively tight engine.

 My experience too in a few different engines, both MB diesels and
 lesser gassers.

 If you don't want a new addition ON your driveway as well as TO the
 driveway, avoid 0 weight anything.

Have you ever had an older (more than 15 years or so) MB diesel that did
NOT mark its territory at all?

My 300D has always dripped a little bit, not enough to noticeably affect
levels between changes, but a single drop will leave a mark on the
driveway.


Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] New addition to the driveway- M1 oil

2010-08-23 Thread WILTON
My '87 300D is 24 years old and does not mark its territory.  Well, 
sometimes, condensate drips from it, but that doesn't leave a black stain.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 9:09 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] New addition to the driveway- M1 oil



Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com writes:

On Mon, Aug 23, 2010 at 2:22 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com 
wrote:


I don't like the 0w40 as its so thin cold it'll tend to leak even in a 
relatively tight engine.


My experience too in a few different engines, both MB diesels and
lesser gassers.

If you don't want a new addition ON your driveway as well as TO the
driveway, avoid 0 weight anything.


Have you ever had an older (more than 15 years or so) MB diesel that did
NOT mark its territory at all?

My 300D has always dripped a little bit, not enough to noticeably affect
levels between changes, but a single drop will leave a mark on the
driveway.


Allan
--
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] M1 on sale

2010-08-23 Thread RELNGSON
 ...Week before last Car Quest had Buy 4 get one free on Mobil 1. It was 
 (IIRC) $7.20 a quart but:
 4x $7.20 = $28.80
 But you really get 5 quarts so your actual price is
 $28.80/5 = $5.76...
 
Local price was $6.99 a while back so I picked up sixteen quarts of 0W40 
plus four free ones on the same deal. I use this in the C300 (8.3 qts) but 
went back to 15/50 M1 (Walmart) for the Porsche due to the increased ZDDP. The 
MB dealers here use 5W40 but 0W40 is also OK and is more likely to be on 
sale.

RLE

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Re: [MBZ] Amsoil

2010-08-23 Thread Peter Frederick
I have low oil pressure hot on the TE, but I suspect the sender, not  
the oil pressure.  No lifter rattle, which those engines are prone to  
at any rate, so I don't believe the pressure is actually low.


Just have to get out there on a day when it's less than 105 heat  
index and screw it in.  The car lives on 10W 30 or 15W 50 M1.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] New addition to the driveway- M1 oil

2010-08-23 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Mon, Aug 23, 2010 at 6:41 PM, WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:
 My '87 300D is 24 years old and does not mark its territory.

Mine neither.   The only leak on the engine is, I believe, from the
seal around the bottom plate on the injection pump.  Since that seal
isn't replaceable in situ, and I'm not going to undertake RRing the
pump just for that, it's going to stay leaking.  But what little oil
comes out doesn't make it to the ground that I've noticed (and, no, I
don't have the plastic skid plates on my engine to catch
drips---someone threw them away a long time ago, as usual).

Alex

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[MBZ] OT: Today's pooch for Woger

2010-08-23 Thread Dieselhead
This might take care of Woger's pooch fix for the day.  A good thing 
to do with your pooch.


http://tinyurl.com/2auz9gh
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