Re: [MBZ] post 140 brainslips

2011-03-16 Thread Hendrik Fay
I think it is safe to call this a slip of the brain, airmatic was an 
option on the 211.

Time will tell if these chassis are good.

Hendrik
who has had zero serious breakdowns with his Mercs

Right, slip of the fingers, I meant the 211 and 212---again, such good cars
that it's hard to see why one should pony up for an S-class unless you want
the otherwise unavailable goodies like Airmatic and/or a V-12.

Alex
  



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[MBZ] Oil change time E300

2011-03-16 Thread Max Dillon
Dieselvolk,

Had time to change the oil in my '95 E300 last night.  This is the second oil 
change during my ownership, the first occurred right after I started driving 
the 
car post-vacuum pump repair.  I used Delvac 1300 for the new oil fill for that 
first oil change, and the car used probably about 1/2 quart of oil over 6 
thousand miles.

For this fill, I'm using Mobil 1 0w-40, and I'm planning to test the oil at the 
5k mark.  I expect that this engine will produce very little soot, and the 
limiting factor for next oil change will become the calender.

The '87 wagon is now parked and waiting for me to find time to pull the head.  
Anyone have a #17 or later head they want to sell?

 Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
'87 300TD 334k miles
'95 E300 280k miles
'73 Balboa 20
Charleston SC
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[MBZ] '87 300TD head removal

2011-03-16 Thread Max Dillon
Dieselvolk,

Can anyone provide the specifications for the shop-made slide rail pin pulling 
tool?  I think it is supposed to be a bolt 6mm in diameter with a nut and stack 
of washer, but how long, how deep a washer stack, and are the threads 6mm x1.0 
or some other dimension?

 Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
'87 300TD 334k miles
'95 E300 280k miles
'73 Balboa 20
Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] '87 300TD head removal

2011-03-16 Thread Mitch Haley

Max Dillon wrote:

Dieselvolk,

Can anyone provide the specifications for the shop-made slide rail pin pulling 
tool?  I think it is supposed to be a bolt 6mm in diameter with a nut and stack 
of washer, but how long, how deep a washer stack, and are the threads 6mm x1.0 
or some other dimension?


I wouldn't sweat the details too much (but I've got an assortment of 4, 5, and 
6mm bolts laying around already). Just find a bolt that threads in smoothly, 
stick a washer and a socket over it, make sure it goes in 4 threads before it 
gets tight, and crank down on it until you meet resistance or it comes out. (you 
don't want to bottom out on the threads and then keep turning it) If you 
bottomed out, unscrew it and start over with a longer socket or more washers.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Digest, Vol 64, Issue 64

2011-03-16 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Tue, Mar 15, 2011 at 8:17 PM, relng...@aol.com wrote:

  Then
 there was the ten grand E-Class price drop apparently designed to lose
 customers.


That was for the 1994 model year, simultaneous with the Great Letter/Number
Switch, and the beginning of M-B's drastic quality control problems (not a
coincidence).

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] PHX CL...Don't See These Everyday, only on Wednesdays and perhaps Fridays

2011-03-16 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Tue, Mar 15, 2011 at 4:14 PM, Hendrik  Fay heni...@ozemail.com.auwrote:

 The problem with sportline models is that the suspension parts are a little
 different and the ride is firmer.


Problem?  Sportlines are considered among the most desirable 201s and
124s, at least on this side of the Equator.  Perhaps suspension priorities
are different when you habitually drive upside down and on the wrong side of
the road?

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] Honda Seizure/oops Fit/cranking the 240D

2011-03-16 Thread John Reames
Are you sure that she isn't a lumberjack to have burly enough arms to turn over 
a diesel on those freezing mornings?

--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Mar 15, 2011, at 19:20, Hendrik  Fay heni...@ozemail.com.au wrote:

 Yup, even the engine had to be manually turned over via a crank up the front 
 but I usually got the missus to do that.
 
 Hendrik
 who is doing a crappy Wilton impression
 
 WILTON wrote:
 My '80 240D had manual everything; 'may still be driving it if it hadn't 
 been totaled by uninsured driver at 185 kmi.
 
 Wilton
 
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] '87 300TD head removal

2011-03-16 Thread Max Dillon
I don't have a nice assortment to select from, so I'll need to go buy 
something.  You think it could be between 4, 5 and 6mm?

 Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
'87 300TD 334k miles
'95 E300 280k miles
'73 Balboa 20
Charleston SC





From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wed, March 16, 2011 10:52:28 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '87 300TD head removal

Max Dillon wrote:
 Dieselvolk,
 
 Can anyone provide the specifications for the shop-made slide rail pin 
 pulling 
tool?  I think it is supposed to be a bolt 6mm in diameter with a nut and 
stack 
of washer, but how long, how deep a washer stack, and are the threads 6mm x1.0 
or some other dimension?

I wouldn't sweat the details too much (but I've got an assortment of 4, 5, and 
6mm bolts laying around already). Just find a bolt that threads in smoothly, 
stick a washer and a socket over it, make sure it goes in 4 threads before it 
gets tight, and crank down on it until you meet resistance or it comes out. 
(you 
don't want to bottom out on the threads and then keep turning it) If you 
bottomed out, unscrew it and start over with a longer socket or more washers.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] '87 300TD head removal

2011-03-16 Thread Mitch Haley

Max Dillon wrote:
I don't have a nice assortment to select from, so I'll need to go buy 
something.  You think it could be between 4, 5 and 6mm?


Oops, it looks like I guessed small. I thought the threaded hole was in the pin, 
but it's only in the head of the pin, and is pretty large. Somebody made a 
puller for a 617 with an 8x1.25 bolt. Looks like you run a long bolt into the 
tensioner pin until it bottoms out, then run a nut down on the bolt to extract.
One guy had an 8.8 bolt fail, so he bought a grade 12.9 for more pull before 
failure.


http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=288848

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[MBZ] Time $$s for a compression test

2011-03-16 Thread andrew strasfogel
Looking at a possible 1985 300TD engine, asked the owner to do a compression
test for me.  Would it take 3 hours to do a compresion test on a 300TD?  Is
$60 a fair price to pay for this?  What would Kalebe asking to do this?
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Re: [MBZ] Time $$s for a compression test

2011-03-16 Thread E M
When I got my 300E, the dealer wanted $300-400 to look the car over, and
that wasn't including doing a leak down pressure differential test.  I
passed, as I can look at, shake and wiggle external things as well as the
next guy.

If it takes anyone 3 hours to do a compression test, I probably wouldn't let
them touch my car, as there's a good chance they don't have a clue what
they're doing.  Again, $60 for 3 hours work comes out to $20 per hour.
Wouldn't want a $20 an hour mechanic touching my car either.  My guess is,
it's more a half hour job, and the $60 is a bill for a half hours labour.

Why not take it to a guy you know and trust, and do a leakdown pressure
differential test, rather than just a compression test.  Gives you a better
snapshot of what's going on inside the engine, and a better indicator if
things aren't what they should be, just where the problem(s) might be.
Shouldn't take more than an hour, if they stop for tea and cookies.

Ed
300E

On 16 March 2011 15:52, andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote:

 Looking at a possible 1985 300TD engine, asked the owner to do a
 compression
 test for me.  Would it take 3 hours to do a compresion test on a 300TD?  Is
 $60 a fair price to pay for this?  What would Kalebe asking to do this?
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Re: [MBZ] ACCII Talk (long)

2011-03-16 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
Alright, an update... I drove the car home today for a bit more diagnosis.

What I have determined is that the servo is shorted between pin 3 and 5.
 Where 12V is placed between these pins, the servo should park... instead, I
get some sparks.  It seems that this short is pulling some serious current
through the amplifier, and perhaps bringing the rest of the system down.
 When connected, I get 8 volts or less on Pin 3 with the servo connected,
12v disconnected.  I blew the fuse in my ammeter checking pins 3-5 and don't
have a replacement.

The servo does move with 12V between pins 4 and 5, but its unclear how much
current its drawing, and how much it should draw.  Its possible that the
draw here is also too much for the amp to handle.

I took the servo apart and noticed a little crack in the arm that moves the
electrical contacts.  I'm not sure if this was there the first time I took
it apart or not, but might be the cause of the short.  Its a pretty simple
set of connections, so I can't see any other possibilities.

So, I think I need a new servo.  Now... who to go with for a replacement
eBay used, aluminum body, dealer new?  I'm interested in as original
appearance as possible, as this is a rare car with very low mileage.
 Hopefully my new amp isn't fried.

Thanks to everyone who passed along documentation and tips... very helpful.

Jaime


On Thu, Mar 10, 2011 at 7:48 AM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.comwrote:

 Hi Jim,
 Thanks very useful stuff!  Thanks!

 I have the vacuum and electrical schematic from the factory manual which is
 quite useful as well.

 Jaime



 On Thu, Mar 10, 2011 at 1:05 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:

 So I have some issue with the electrical part of the servo
 (like the feedback potentiometer), or I've got a bunch of bad amps.


 Sounds logical, yes.  You need to look at the schematic
 to see what is likely.


  Are any schematics of the system and its sub-components (amps) available?


 I have Scott Ritchey's and George Murphy's work stashed on my server:

 http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/chryaccfh/chryaccfh.html

 -- Jim




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Re: [MBZ] PHX CL...Don't See sportlines everyday, only on Wednesdays and perhaps Fridays

2011-03-16 Thread E M
I think performance is all relative.  My take on the Sportline option from
what little I know about it, is to slightly reduce some of the wallow and
firm up the handling a bit, for road use.  Bit less roll on the on and off
ramps.  I can't imagine anyone interested in doing weekend track work to opt
for any W124 based car.  A sportline W124 might be a car that has somewhat
tighter handling for your drive to the track.  But once there, you'll want
to park it and get into something a bit more suited to the job at hand.

I think the W124 has a really nice ride in standard form.  When pushed, even
a bit, it still stays composed, but doesn't give any of the feel or feedback
that you want for spirited driving.  I would think the sportline package
would address this a bit, but I don't think you're going to be making any
unscheduled trips to the dentist if you go down a bumpy road in one.

Just my take on the car.

Ed
300E



On 16 March 2011 18:46, Hendrik  Fay heni...@ozemail.com.au wrote:

 Perhaps problem is not the right word but parts may be a tad more
 expensive than standard, although I believe all the bushes are the same as
 the standard ones.
 From my point of view trading off ride quality versus handling is not a
 good idea. The 201 especially is already a bit bouncy due to it's light
 weight and tends to go around corners well enough and I really wouldn't want
 my 124 to be any firmer and for what I do it handles well enough.
 Sure if you wanna go do a bit of track work on the weekend, then the
 sportline set up is a must but for everyday driving it is a waste, unless
 you like chasing rice burners up a hill.
 Anyway I guess for those with race car driver fantasies, a sportsline might
 help to be part of that but then you really wanna do it properly and hang
 out for a cosworth equipped model or a 124 with a bent 8, which we never got
 over here because they don't work well upside down and the MB engineers hate
 us enough not to bother solving the engineering issues with V8's in RH drive
 124's.

 On a related note, why is it that the 126 chassis never got a sportline
 option, specially in the C126 variants?

 Hendrik
 who is in the slow lane

 Alex Chamberlain wrote:

 On Tue, Mar 15, 2011 at 4:14 PM, Hendrik  Fay heni...@ozemail.com.au
 wrote:



 The problem with sportline models is that the suspension parts are a
 little
 different and the ride is firmer.




 Problem?  Sportlines are considered among the most desirable 201s and
 124s, at least on this side of the Equator.  Perhaps suspension priorities
 are different when you habitually drive upside down and on the wrong side
 of
 the road?

 Alex





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Re: [MBZ] More junk

2011-03-16 Thread RELNGSON
 ...Right, slip of the fingers, I meant the 211 and 212---again, such good 
 cars
 that it's hard to see why one should pony up for an S-class unless you 
 want
 the otherwise unavailable goodies like Airmatic and/or a V-12
 
Airmatic was standard in W211 Sport models. W211s near the end were good 
cars but 2003 to 2005 are to be avoided because of endless electronic 
problems. Same thing for W203s those years.

W212s, homely though they may be, are very reliable, just like the W204 and 
W221s. Finally.

RLE
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Time $$s for a compression test

2011-03-16 Thread Curt Raymond
The glow plugs need to come out...
$60 for 3 hours is cheap shop time.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 15:52:19 -0400
From: andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Time  $$s for a compression test
Message-ID:
    AANLkTi=w0vjtkgoueft14zy5q7np37crzwh-osouf...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Looking at a possible 1985 300TD engine, asked the owner to do a compression
test for me.  Would it take 3 hours to do a compresion test on a 300TD?  Is
$60 a fair price to pay for this?  What would Kalebe asking to do this?


  
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[MBZ] 107 wheels

2011-03-16 Thread Dieselhead
Need to get tires for the SL.  It has 205/70-14 bundts on it. 
Everything else I have runs 15 wheels.  TO standardize, I am 
pondering what other wheels will fit.  Specifically, does anyone know 
if wheels off of a 123, 124 or 126 will fit?


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Re: [MBZ] 107 wheels

2011-03-16 Thread Peter Frederick
W123/W126 wheels may fit.  W124 wheels will definitely NOT fit, wrong  
offset.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] More junk

2011-03-16 Thread E M
As they say, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.  I think the W212 is
one of the best looking things to come from Mercedes in years.  I'm a fan of
the W221 too, though not so much since the tail light update.  The W212 is
the car that has made me drive over and wander through the dealer more than
a few times.

They also happen to be everywhere around here now.  That's great for me, as
I always park as far away from the shops as possible while at the mall.  It
allows me to walk past that many more W212s in the parking lot, while making
my way into the mall.  :-)

Ed
300E

On 16 March 2011 19:58, relng...@aol.com wrote:

  ...Right, slip of the fingers, I meant the 211 and 212---again, such good
  cars
  that it's hard to see why one should pony up for an S-class unless you
  want
  the otherwise unavailable goodies like Airmatic and/or a V-12
 
 Airmatic was standard in W211 Sport models. W211s near the end were good
 cars but 2003 to 2005 are to be avoided because of endless electronic
 problems. Same thing for W203s those years.

 W212s, homely though they may be, are very reliable, just like the W204 and
 W221s. Finally.

 RLE
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] 107 wheels

2011-03-16 Thread buymbparts
W07/108/111/114/115/116/123/126 all have the same offset.


Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless handheld

-Original Message-
From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
Sender: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 19:28:31 
To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 107 wheels

W123/W126 wheels may fit.  W124 wheels will definitely NOT fit, wrong  
offset.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] ACCII Talk (long)

2011-03-16 Thread Greg Fiorentino
Jaime:

I have some servo parts that may replace your defective ones.  I used only
the servo motor, so have the arm and contact plate.  If you're interested
you may have them for the cost of postage.  Let me know, I'll send pics of
what I have.

Greg 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Jaime Kopchinski
Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 4:03 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List; Banned List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] ACCII Talk (long)

Alright, an update... I drove the car home today for a bit more diagnosis.

What I have determined is that the servo is shorted between pin 3 and 5.
 Where 12V is placed between these pins, the servo should park... instead, I
get some sparks.  It seems that this short is pulling some serious current
through the amplifier, and perhaps bringing the rest of the system down.
 When connected, I get 8 volts or less on Pin 3 with the servo connected,
12v disconnected.  I blew the fuse in my ammeter checking pins 3-5 and don't
have a replacement.

The servo does move with 12V between pins 4 and 5, but its unclear how much
current its drawing, and how much it should draw.  Its possible that the
draw here is also too much for the amp to handle.

I took the servo apart and noticed a little crack in the arm that moves the
electrical contacts.  I'm not sure if this was there the first time I took
it apart or not, but might be the cause of the short.  Its a pretty simple
set of connections, so I can't see any other possibilities.

So, I think I need a new servo.  Now... who to go with for a replacement
eBay used, aluminum body, dealer new?  I'm interested in as original
appearance as possible, as this is a rare car with very low mileage.
 Hopefully my new amp isn't fried.

Thanks to everyone who passed along documentation and tips... very helpful.

Jaime


On Thu, Mar 10, 2011 at 7:48 AM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.comwrote:

 Hi Jim,
 Thanks very useful stuff!  Thanks!

 I have the vacuum and electrical schematic from the factory manual which
is
 quite useful as well.

 Jaime



 On Thu, Mar 10, 2011 at 1:05 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:

 So I have some issue with the electrical part of the servo
 (like the feedback potentiometer), or I've got a bunch of bad amps.


 Sounds logical, yes.  You need to look at the schematic
 to see what is likely.


  Are any schematics of the system and its sub-components (amps)
available?


 I have Scott Ritchey's and George Murphy's work stashed on my server:

 http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/chryaccfh/chryaccfh.html

 -- Jim




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[MBZ] SL speedo problem... solved

2011-03-16 Thread Dieselhead
In Jan I asked about the SL speedo, and if it was a cable or 
electronic.  Being electronic, I was puzzled about why it abruptly 
failed.


today, I jacked it up and took off the rear skid pans/transmission 
mount.  The speedo sender was dangling by the wire.  So, solved that 
problem without having to put a meter on to try to determine if it 
was sending a signal.  It obviously was not sending in its dangling 
position.


I found a M6 x 15 bolt and lockwasher, cleaned the sender and put it back in.

I love problems that are this easy!

x

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Re: [MBZ] ACCII Talk (long)

2011-03-16 Thread Dieselhead
What car are you referring to?  The subject says ACCII, but this 
description of parking the servo sounds like the dreaded Crypsler ACC 
(I)  I was lost from the start of your thread since there was no 
vehicle associated with the post.





Alright, an update... I drove the car home today for a bit more diagnosis.

What I have determined is that the servo is shorted between pin 3 and 5.
 Where 12V is placed between these pins, the servo should park... instead, I
get some sparks.  It seems that this short is pulling some serious current
through the amplifier, and perhaps bringing the rest of the system down.
 When connected, I get 8 volts or less on Pin 3 with the servo connected,
12v disconnected.  I blew the fuse in my ammeter checking pins 3-5 and don't
have a replacement.

The servo does move with 12V between pins 4 and 5, but its unclear how much
current its drawing, and how much it should draw.  Its possible that the
draw here is also too much for the amp to handle.

I took the servo apart and noticed a little crack in the arm that moves the
electrical contacts.  I'm not sure if this was there the first time I took
it apart or not, but might be the cause of the short.  Its a pretty simple
set of connections, so I can't see any other possibilities.

So, I think I need a new servo.  Now... who to go with for a replacement
eBay used, aluminum body, dealer new?  I'm interested in as original
appearance as possible, as this is a rare car with very low mileage.
 Hopefully my new amp isn't fried.

Thanks to everyone who passed along documentation and tips... very helpful.

Jaime


On Thu, Mar 10, 2011 at 7:48 AM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.comwrote:


 Hi Jim,
 Thanks very useful stuff!  Thanks!

 I have the vacuum and electrical schematic from the factory manual which is
 quite useful as well.

 Jaime



 On Thu, Mar 10, 2011 at 1:05 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:


 So I have some issue with the electrical part of the servo

 (like the feedback potentiometer), or I've got a bunch of bad amps.



 Sounds logical, yes.  You need to look at the schematic
 to see what is likely.


  Are any schematics of the system and its sub-components (amps) available?




 I have Scott Ritchey's and George Murphy's work stashed on my server:

 http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/chryaccfh/chryaccfh.html

 -- Jim




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Re: [MBZ] ACCII Talk (long)

2011-03-16 Thread OK Don
If it is the dreaded Crypsler ACC (I), I thought the usual failure mode was
corrosion, etc. in the coolant body valving that prevents the motor from
parking, thus draining the battery , blowing circuits, etc.

On Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 7:25 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 What car are you referring to?  The subject says ACCII, but this
 description of parking the servo sounds like the dreaded Crypsler ACC (I)  I
 was lost from the start of your thread since there was no vehicle associated
 with the post.




 Alright, an update... I drove the car home today for a bit more diagnosis.

 What I have determined is that the servo is shorted between pin 3 and 5.
  Where 12V is placed between these pins, the servo should park... instead,
 I
 get some sparks.  It seems that this short is pulling some serious current
 through the amplifier, and perhaps bringing the rest of the system down.
  When connected, I get 8 volts or less on Pin 3 with the servo connected,
 12v disconnected.  I blew the fuse in my ammeter checking pins 3-5 and
 don't
 have a replacement.

 The servo does move with 12V between pins 4 and 5, but its unclear how
 much
 current its drawing, and how much it should draw.  Its possible that the
 draw here is also too much for the amp to handle.

 I took the servo apart and noticed a little crack in the arm that moves
 the
 electrical contacts.  I'm not sure if this was there the first time I took
 it apart or not, but might be the cause of the short.  Its a pretty simple
 set of connections, so I can't see any other possibilities.

 So, I think I need a new servo.  Now... who to go with for a
 replacement
 eBay used, aluminum body, dealer new?  I'm interested in as original
 appearance as possible, as this is a rare car with very low mileage.
  Hopefully my new amp isn't fried.

 Thanks to everyone who passed along documentation and tips... very
 helpful.

 Jaime

 --

 OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] 107 wheels

2011-03-16 Thread OK Don
So - yes. You can get the pancake wheels from a 126 and look like a 560SL.

On Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 7:33 PM, buymbpa...@gmail.com wrote:

 W07/108/111/114/115/116/123/126 all have the same offset.


 --

OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] 107 wheels

2011-03-16 Thread Dieselhead
The 560s came out with 15 hole alloy wheels (15) if they are the 
same as the 126, I wish I still had my spare set from the SDL snow 
tires.  H.  Makes me wonder if the 126 wheels will fit on a 107. 
If I found 15 bundts, they would look original.  I'd rather have 8 
holers to take care of, but 15 holers are easier to keep clean than 
the bundts.



W123/W126 wheels may fit.  W124 wheels will definitely NOT fit, wrong offset.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] SL speedo problem... solved

2011-03-16 Thread OK Don
Why do I never get ones like that?

On Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 7:16 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 In Jan I asked about the SL speedo, and if it was a cable or electronic.
  Being electronic, I was puzzled about why it abruptly failed.

 today, I jacked it up and took off the rear skid pans/transmission mount.
  The speedo sender was dangling by the wire.  So, solved that problem
 without having to put a meter on to try to determine if it was sending a
 signal.  It obviously was not sending in its dangling position.

 I found a M6 x 15 bolt and lockwasher, cleaned the sender and put it back
 in.

 I love problems that are this easy!

 x
 --

OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] SL speedo problem... solved

2011-03-16 Thread Walt Zarnoch
Admit it, you waited this long to keep off some mileage from that round the
country  jaunt you didn't tell us about. ;)

Glad it was an easy fix!

Walt
On Mar 16, 2011 9:20 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
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Re: [MBZ] ACCII Talk (long)

2011-03-16 Thread Walt Zarnoch
I have a servo from a 78 300D, unknown condition.
Yours for postage if I can find it.

Walt
On Mar 16, 2011 9:20 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
 What car are you referring to? The subject says ACCII, but this
 description of parking the servo sounds like the dreaded Crypsler ACC
 (I) I was lost from the start of your thread since there was no
 vehicle associated with the post.



Alright, an update... I drove the car home today for a bit more diagnosis.

What I have determined is that the servo is shorted between pin 3 and 5.
 Where 12V is placed between these pins, the servo should park... instead,
I
get some sparks. It seems that this short is pulling some serious current
through the amplifier, and perhaps bringing the rest of the system down.
 When connected, I get 8 volts or less on Pin 3 with the servo connected,
12v disconnected. I blew the fuse in my ammeter checking pins 3-5 and
don't
have a replacement.

The servo does move with 12V between pins 4 and 5, but its unclear how
much
current its drawing, and how much it should draw. Its possible that the
draw here is also too much for the amp to handle.

I took the servo apart and noticed a little crack in the arm that moves
the
electrical contacts. I'm not sure if this was there the first time I took
it apart or not, but might be the cause of the short. Its a pretty simple
set of connections, so I can't see any other possibilities.

So, I think I need a new servo. Now... who to go with for a
replacement
eBay used, aluminum body, dealer new? I'm interested in as original
appearance as possible, as this is a rare car with very low mileage.
 Hopefully my new amp isn't fried.

Thanks to everyone who passed along documentation and tips... very
helpful.

Jaime


On Thu, Mar 10, 2011 at 7:48 AM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com
wrote:

 Hi Jim,
 Thanks very useful stuff! Thanks!

 I have the vacuum and electrical schematic from the factory manual which
is
 quite useful as well.

 Jaime



 On Thu, Mar 10, 2011 at 1:05 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
wrote:

 So I have some issue with the electrical part of the servo
 (like the feedback potentiometer), or I've got a bunch of bad amps.


 Sounds logical, yes. You need to look at the schematic
 to see what is likely.


 Are any schematics of the system and its sub-components (amps)
available?


 I have Scott Ritchey's and George Murphy's work stashed on my server:

 http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/chryaccfh/chryaccfh.html

 -- Jim




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Re: [MBZ] ACCII Talk (long)

2011-03-16 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
ACCII = Chrysler based system with servo we are talking about here... 76-80
ACCIII = 81-85
ACCI = Mercedes 600

Jaime

On Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 8:25 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 What car are you referring to?  The subject says ACCII, but this
 description of parking the servo sounds like the dreaded Crypsler ACC (I)  I
 was lost from the start of your thread since there was no vehicle associated
 with the post.




  Alright, an update... I drove the car home today for a bit more diagnosis.

 What I have determined is that the servo is shorted between pin 3 and 5.
  Where 12V is placed between these pins, the servo should park... instead,
 I
 get some sparks.  It seems that this short is pulling some serious current
 through the amplifier, and perhaps bringing the rest of the system down.
  When connected, I get 8 volts or less on Pin 3 with the servo connected,
 12v disconnected.  I blew the fuse in my ammeter checking pins 3-5 and
 don't
 have a replacement.

 The servo does move with 12V between pins 4 and 5, but its unclear how
 much
 current its drawing, and how much it should draw.  Its possible that the
 draw here is also too much for the amp to handle.

 I took the servo apart and noticed a little crack in the arm that moves
 the
 electrical contacts.  I'm not sure if this was there the first time I took
 it apart or not, but might be the cause of the short.  Its a pretty simple
 set of connections, so I can't see any other possibilities.

 So, I think I need a new servo.  Now... who to go with for a
 replacement
 eBay used, aluminum body, dealer new?  I'm interested in as original
 appearance as possible, as this is a rare car with very low mileage.
  Hopefully my new amp isn't fried.

 Thanks to everyone who passed along documentation and tips... very
 helpful.

 Jaime


 On Thu, Mar 10, 2011 at 7:48 AM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com
 wrote:

   Hi Jim,
  Thanks very useful stuff!  Thanks!

  I have the vacuum and electrical schematic from the factory manual which
 is
  quite useful as well.

  Jaime



  On Thu, Mar 10, 2011 at 1:05 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
 wrote:

   So I have some issue with the electrical part of the servo

  (like the feedback potentiometer), or I've got a bunch of bad amps.


  Sounds logical, yes.  You need to look at the schematic
  to see what is likely.


  Are any schematics of the system and its sub-components (amps)
 available?



  I have Scott Ritchey's and George Murphy's work stashed on my server:

  http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/chryaccfh/chryaccfh.html

  -- Jim




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Re: [MBZ] ACCII Talk (long)

2011-03-16 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
Oh yeah, its a 79 450SLC 5.0 I found last fall... its been in storage since
1991 and has 26k miles.  The big stuff is done and its running well now, but
there are a few smaller items to address.

Jaime

On Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 9:53 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.comwrote:

 ACCII = Chrysler based system with servo we are talking about here... 76-80
 ACCIII = 81-85
 ACCI = Mercedes 600

 Jaime


 On Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 8:25 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 What car are you referring to?  The subject says ACCII, but this
 description of parking the servo sounds like the dreaded Crypsler ACC (I)  I
 was lost from the start of your thread since there was no vehicle associated
 with the post.




  Alright, an update... I drove the car home today for a bit more
 diagnosis.

 What I have determined is that the servo is shorted between pin 3 and 5.
  Where 12V is placed between these pins, the servo should park...
 instead, I
 get some sparks.  It seems that this short is pulling some serious
 current
 through the amplifier, and perhaps bringing the rest of the system down.
  When connected, I get 8 volts or less on Pin 3 with the servo connected,
 12v disconnected.  I blew the fuse in my ammeter checking pins 3-5 and
 don't
 have a replacement.

 The servo does move with 12V between pins 4 and 5, but its unclear how
 much
 current its drawing, and how much it should draw.  Its possible that the
 draw here is also too much for the amp to handle.

 I took the servo apart and noticed a little crack in the arm that moves
 the
 electrical contacts.  I'm not sure if this was there the first time I
 took
 it apart or not, but might be the cause of the short.  Its a pretty
 simple
 set of connections, so I can't see any other possibilities.

 So, I think I need a new servo.  Now... who to go with for a
 replacement
 eBay used, aluminum body, dealer new?  I'm interested in as original
 appearance as possible, as this is a rare car with very low mileage.
  Hopefully my new amp isn't fried.

 Thanks to everyone who passed along documentation and tips... very
 helpful.

 Jaime


 On Thu, Mar 10, 2011 at 7:48 AM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com
 wrote:

   Hi Jim,
  Thanks very useful stuff!  Thanks!

  I have the vacuum and electrical schematic from the factory manual
 which is
  quite useful as well.

  Jaime



  On Thu, Mar 10, 2011 at 1:05 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
 wrote:

   So I have some issue with the electrical part of the servo

  (like the feedback potentiometer), or I've got a bunch of bad amps.


  Sounds logical, yes.  You need to look at the schematic
  to see what is likely.


  Are any schematics of the system and its sub-components (amps)
 available?



  I have Scott Ritchey's and George Murphy's work stashed on my server:

  http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/chryaccfh/chryaccfh.html

  -- Jim




  ___
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  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



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Re: [MBZ] Time $$s for a compression test

2011-03-16 Thread Tim C
3 hours though?  Seems high to me, I did all 8 on a 450 in ~1 hour and
I'm -not- fast.  Did not buy that 450, either.

Anyway in your situation I'd probably pay the $60 if it's not nearby;
might save you a trip on a bum engine, or else you find out it is good
and have a guaranteed hold-it-until-you-get-there [I assume the
seller will be willing to do that if he takes your $60].

Either way, seems like it would be worth the money.  But then it's not
my money. :)

Best,
-Tim

On Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 8:07 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:
 The glow plugs need to come out...
 $60 for 3 hours is cheap shop time.

 -Curt

 Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 15:52:19 -0400
 From: andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: [MBZ] Time  $$s for a compression test
 Message-ID:
     AANLkTi=w0vjtkgoueft14zy5q7np37crzwh-osouf...@mail.gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

 Looking at a possible 1985 300TD engine, asked the owner to do a compression
 test for me.  Would it take 3 hours to do a compresion test on a 300TD?  Is
 $60 a fair price to pay for this?  What would Kalebe asking to do this?



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Re: [MBZ] Time $$s for a compression test

2011-03-16 Thread Randy Bennell
I would guess that sort of depends on how many times one has done that 
procedure. I have never done it so it seems to me that 3 hours might not 
be enough.


An experienced mechanic in a well equipped shop should beat that  time 
without problems. That is why they have book time.


Could you do it in 3 hours? What would you expect to be paid to do it? 
Is the owner a mechanic or at least a well experienced amateur?


Will you be there to watch???


No end of good questions.

Randy



On 16/03/2011 2:52 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

Looking at a possible 1985 300TD engine, asked the owner to do a compression
test for me.  Would it take 3 hours to do a compresion test on a 300TD?  Is
$60 a fair price to pay for this?  What would Kalebe asking to do this?
___



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Re: [MBZ] Time $$s for a compression test

2011-03-16 Thread Mitch Haley

Curt Raymond wrote:

The glow plugs need to come out...
$60 for 3 hours is cheap shop time.


Maybe the shop wants $60 for a compression test, and it'll take three hours out 
of the owner's day to have it done?


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Re: [MBZ] 107 wheels

2011-03-16 Thread Mitch Haley

buymbpa...@gmail.com wrote:

W07/108/111/114/115/116/123/126 all have the same offset.


What about W109? Same as W108?

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[MBZ] Kinda OT Car Purchasing Tips

2011-03-16 Thread Rick Knoble

A while back Kaleb posted his negotiating tips he uses when purchasing a car. I 
thought I saved them
but I though wrong. Can someone re-post them or perhaps suggest more? 
Thanks,
Rick
Who is too lazy to search the archives...




  
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Re: [MBZ] ACCII Talk (long)

2011-03-16 Thread Craig
On Wed, 16 Mar 2011 19:25:50 -0500 Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 What car are you referring to?  The subject says ACCII, but this 
 description of parking the servo sounds like the dreaded Crypsler ACC 
 (I)  I was lost from the start of your thread since there was no 
 vehicle associated with the post.

From his original post:

 Cut and pasted from BANNED, as its a good discussion for this list:

 So, my 450SLC 5.0 has the all-heat-all-the-time thing going on.
 Everyone once in a while the climate control works exactly as it
 should, but about 95% of the time its just heat.  I've been doing
 some diag, following the processes in the manual...


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] SL speedo problem... solved

2011-03-16 Thread Craig
On Wed, 16 Mar 2011 19:16:50 -0500 Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 I love problems that are this easy!

Congratulations! (And don't we all ... )


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Kinda OT Car Purchasing Tips

2011-03-16 Thread E M
Take cash, and unless it's a Gullwing, know there's always another one out
there, probably even better.  Always be prepared to walk away if you don't
get the deal you want.

Not Kaleb's tips, but they're ones I try to stick to.  I think Kaleb just
tells the sellers that he already has about 100 Mercedes at home.  They
become so intimidated, they just tell him to take the car, and leave
whatever he thinks it's worth.  If it's a really excellent car, he usually
leaves about $500.  hee hee

Ed
300E

On 16 March 2011 23:18, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:


 A while back Kaleb posted his negotiating tips he uses when purchasing a
 car. I thought I saved them
 but I though wrong. Can someone re-post them or perhaps suggest more?
 Thanks,
 Rick
 Who is too lazy to search the archives...





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Re: [MBZ] More junk

2011-03-16 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 4:58 PM, relng...@aol.com wrote:

 Airmatic was standard in W211 Sport models. W211s near the end were good
 cars but 2003 to 2005 are to be avoided because of endless electronic
 problems. Same thing for W203s those years.


Not junk at all, but useful info---thank you, Roger.

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] Time $$s for a compression test

2011-03-16 Thread Jim Cathey
I have never done it so it seems to me that 3 hours might not be 
enough.


I'm sure I spent that long on the Albatross.
And it only had four holes!

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Time $$s for a compression test

2011-03-16 Thread Walt Zarnoch
$60 is a lot cheaper than finding out you need rings/new sleeves.

Then again, unless you're there, they could just look in the FSM and
split the difference, shooting for high-side, and you'd never know
till it was too late...

Walt, who has to be a pessimist today.

On Thu, Mar 17, 2011 at 12:23 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:
 I have never done it so it seems to me that 3 hours might not be enough.

 I'm sure I spent that long on the Albatross.
 And it only had four holes!

 -- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] More junk

2011-03-16 Thread John Freer
Uhm,
had a 2005 320 CDI for 4 years and never had an electrical problem.

John

On Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 8:49 PM, Alex Chamberlain
apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 4:58 PM, relng...@aol.com wrote:

 Airmatic was standard in W211 Sport models. W211s near the end were good
 cars but 2003 to 2005 are to be avoided because of endless electronic
 problems. Same thing for W203s those years.


 Not junk at all, but useful info---thank you, Roger.

 Alex
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 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] 107 wheels

2011-03-16 Thread Barry Stark
126 chassis for sure. I am running 420SEL wheels on my '81 107. By the way
these are 6 1/2 wide rims. The later 560SLs are 7 wide rims. Not sure is
560SEL rims may be 7 wide as well.

Barry

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-
 boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Dieselhead
 Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 5:10 PM
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: [MBZ] 107 wheels
 
 Need to get tires for the SL.  It has 205/70-14 bundts on it.
 Everything else I have runs 15 wheels.  TO standardize, I am
 pondering what other wheels will fit.  Specifically, does anyone know
 if wheels off of a 123, 124 or 126 will fit?



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