[MBZ] OT- 2014 Chevy Cruze 2.0 TurboDiesel

[Chris James]

Not sure if anyone's been following the Cruze diesel.looks like 
they're finally hitting dealer lots!


YouTube link:
2014 Cruze 2.0 Clean Diesel walk around and test drive
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oa7rqTJzBfE

--
Chris J.


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[MBZ] CL W115 220D find (THESE THINGS RUN FOREVER)!

[Chris James]

Just a  LITTLE rusty.

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/3814905491.html

I'd be afraid of falling through the floor while driving!

--
Chris J.


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Re: [MBZ] Drive belt for Toyota

[Gerry Archer]

The "Krikit" (sp?) is available at NAPA for about ten or twenty dollars. 
Many on the list use them, as do I, with good results.

Gerry

From: "Smith, Todd" 
I have been busy and didn't see this until now.  My Toyota beater doesn't 
have A/C and the normal FLAPS belts are for A/C and alternator not just 
alternator.  The Brando belts that I ordered seem to be the right ones so 
we will see when they get here.


Do you have belt tension gauges that do not cost more then GNP of some 
Developing Countries?  Amazon has an OTC Universal for an $134!


Todd Smith

From: Mercedes [mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Trent Fiorini 
[buymbpa...@gmail.com]

Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2013 6:07 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Drive belt for Toyota

Did you find what you were looking ?

Confidentiality Note: The information contained in this message
may be privileged and confidential. If this e-mail contains
protected health information, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is
strictly prohibited,except as permitted by law. If you have
received this communication in error, please notify the sender
immediately by replying to this message and deleting it from your
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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5846 - Release Date: 05/21/13




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Re: [MBZ] Drive belt for Toyota

[Rick Knoble]

Gates 91107 Belt Tension Tester 

http://amzn.com/B000MUTAGS

Rick
Sent from my iPhone

On May 22, 2013, at 3:41 AM, "Gerry Archer"  wrote:

> The "Krikit" (sp?) is available at NAPA for about ten or twenty dollars. Many 
> on the list use them, as do I, with good results.
> Gerry
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[MBZ] Batmobile in rattle can grey

[Hendrik and fay]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/mecedes-benz-190e-auto-body-kit-1986-/261219127254?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item3cd1df8fd6

Hendrik
who thinks some of you could use a laugh
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Re: [MBZ] OT- 2014 Chevy Cruze 2.0 TurboDiesel

[dseretakis]

MSRP of 26K. I'd rather buy a Jetta TDI. 

Sent from my iPhone

On May 22, 2013, at 3:22 AM, Chris James  wrote:

> Not sure if anyone's been following the Cruze diesel.looks like they're 
> finally hitting dealer lots!
> 
> YouTube link:
> 2014 Cruze 2.0 Clean Diesel walk around and test drive
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oa7rqTJzBfE
> 
> -- 
> Chris J.
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] On the road again]

[Bob Rentfro]

Exactly. Pictures are hung, people are hanged.

Bob R
On May 21, 2013 8:29 PM, "Frederick Moir"  wrote:

> Gut Fawkes.
> Hung? Who knows. Hanged, he was.
>
> Fred Moir
> Lynn MA
> Diesel preferred.
>
>
> >
> > From: Mitch Haley 
> >To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> >Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 6:07 PM
> >Subject: Re: [MBZ] On the road again]
> >
> >
> >Randy Bennell wrote:
> >> In Manitoba they called it Louis Riel Day in honour of some past
> >> character who got himself hanged for treason.
> >
> >Hey, maybe they could do one for Guy Fawkes.
> >There's November 5 (the Gunpowder Treason), then there's his birthday on
> April
> >13, or the day he was hung, January 31.
> >
> >Mitch.
> >
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Re: [MBZ] 1984 300D - won't start when hot.

[Mike Esh]

Yes, the clear pre-filter was full of fuel.  I will pull vacuum hose and see what 
happens.  I have never adjusted the rack damper bolt, is there anything I need to 
aware of so I do not make the situation worse>

Michael E. Esh
me...@horizonenv.com
michael...@mac.com
http://www.yugster.com/invite/138123
(C) 231.286.2344


On May 21, 2013, at 11:29 AM, Mitch Haley  wrote:


Mike Esh wrote:
> (primer pump) New last year. New style as well. Pumping does not help it 
start.

Grasping at straws, but was the clear prefilter full of fuel?
I wonder what would happen if you loosened the rack damper bolt and/or pulled
off the hose to the vacuum shutoff solenoid.

Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] 1984 300D - won't start when hot.

[Mike Esh]

That is an interesting theory.  I have a Frybrid vegoil system that I have been 
using for about 35,000 miles.  Most of the time if I shut down without purging 
the the vegoil with diesel it starts.  When I purge and try to restart with 
diesel it does not start.  I will try it when I get home from work today.  Is 
there a way to test the pump while on the car, other than the cold water test.

Michael E. Esh
me...@horizonenv.com
michael...@mac.com
http://www.yugster.com/invite/138123
(C) 231.286.2344


On May 21, 2013, at 11:44 AM, G Mann  wrote:


Next time it does it, try pouring cold water over the injector pump. If it
then starts right up, problem identified. IP is dying and the heat of
summer adds to the clearances internal.

Cooling it down closes up the worn tolerances and let's it run again. I'm
betting going down the road on the back of the tow truck at 50 mph did the
same thing which is why it started at their yard.

Just a thought.

Grant... AZ [where it will be 101 F today]


On Tue, May 21, 2013 at 8:29 AM, Mitch Haley  wrote:

> Mike Esh wrote:
>
>> (primer pump) New last year. New style as well. Pumping does not help
>> it start.
>>
>
> Grasping at straws, but was the clear prefilter full of fuel?
> I wonder what would happen if you loosened the rack damper bolt and/or
> pulled off the hose to the vacuum shutoff solenoid.
>
>
> Mitch.
>
>
> __**_
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http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>
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> 
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>
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[MBZ] Oil Level Sensor

[Dan Penoff]

I had another instance where my low oil level light came on, despite there 
being plenty of oil in the engine and having a good connection to the sender.

I am not familiar with this device on the W140. Is it a temperature coefficient 
sort of device, or dies it use some other means of sensing the level?

Also, is it something that may require cleaning?

Dan
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Re: [MBZ] Gelaendewagen mit OM617

[drcscruggs]

seems a little high to me too (I have a 1982 G cabrio with om617). 



-Original Message-
From: Alex Chamberlain 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Sent: Tue, May 21, 2013 9:34 pm
Subject: [MBZ] Gelaendewagen mit OM617


http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/3772297759.html

For the asking price, I think I'd expect a 5-speed conversion, as well as
something done to fix up the interior beyond sheepskins.

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] Gelaendewagen mit OM617

[Max]

I might go 15k or a little higher.  Interior does stink, but if all the bits 
are there, re-cover.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Alex Chamberlain  wrote:

>http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/3772297759.html
>
>For the asking price, I think I'd expect a 5-speed conversion, as well
>as
>something done to fix up the interior beyond sheepskins.
>
>Alex
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Re: [MBZ] Gelaendewagen mit OM617

[Max]

Hard to believe a $10k paint job would leave the rust underneath, but I suppose 
it's possible.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

>No thanks!   painted over rust, worn out  $5000 gwagon at best.  Even 
>for $5000, I think I'd buy something else.
>
>
>>http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/3772297759.html
>>
>>For the asking price, I think I'd expect a 5-speed conversion, as well
>as
>>something done to fix up the interior beyond sheepskins.
>>
>>Alex
>
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Re: [MBZ] Gelaendewagen mit OM617

[Max]

Good point!
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Frederick Moir  wrote:

>No pictures of the included wench?
> 
>Fred Moir
>Lynn MA
>Diesel preferred.
>
>
>>
>> From: Alex Chamberlain 
>>To: Mercedes Discussion List  
>>Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 10:33 PM
>>Subject: [MBZ] Gelaendewagen mit OM617
>> 
>>
>>http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/3772297759.html
>>
>>For the asking price, I think I'd expect a 5-speed conversion, as well
>as
>>something done to fix up the interior beyond sheepskins.
>>
>>Alex
>>___
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>>
>>
>>
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Re: [MBZ] Batmobile in rattle can grey

[Max]

I wonder what the trailer looks like, festooned with wings as well.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Hendrik and fay  wrote:

>http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/mecedes-benz-190e-auto-body-kit-1986-/261219127254?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item3cd1df8fd6
>
>Hendrik
>who thinks some of you could use a laugh
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Level Sensor

[Max]

On my OM606 and OM603, 'tis a simple float with contract switch.  Starts 
blinking when oil level falls below the middle of the two marks. 
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Dan Penoff  wrote:

>I had another instance where my low oil level light came on, despite
>there being plenty of oil in the engine and having a good connection to
>the sender.
>
>I am not familiar with this device on the W140. Is it a temperature
>coefficient sort of device, or dies it use some other means of sensing
>the level?
>
>Also, is it something that may require cleaning?
>
>Dan
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Re: [MBZ] 1984 300D - won't start when hot.

[Jim Cathey]

I have a Frybrid vegoil system


Oh.  Should have reported that first.  Pump damage advances in
probability, but so does an air leak.  Check the switchover
mechanism.

Is there a way to test the pump while on the car, other than the cold 
water test.


You're looking for something _easier_ than a bucket of ice water?

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Batmobile in rattle can grey

[Rich Thomas]

NEW FRONT SPRINGS AS OTHERS WERETO LOW NOW BALL GOINTS IT IS ROAD WORTH  
WITH REDGO


-R

On 5/22/13 5:36 AM, Hendrik and fay wrote:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/mecedes-benz-190e-auto-body-kit-1986-/261219127254?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item3cd1df8fd6 



Hendrik
who thinks some of you could use a laugh
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Re: [MBZ] On the road again]

[Rich Thomas]

Speak for yourself

--R

On 5/22/13 7:08 AM, Bob Rentfro wrote:

Exactly. Pictures are hung, people are hanged.

Bob R



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Re: [MBZ] Gelaendewagen mit OM617

[Charles Scruggs]

I repainted my G and had to replace both floor panels, door sills, and both 
taillight panels.  I also painted the new and original floor panels with truck 
bed liner(did myself). I spent less about 6k. To get to 10k for a paint job, 
seems you would need a frame off recon. 

Sent from Dr. Scruggs, Gulf Coast Oral, Facial, and Dental Implant Surgery 
iPhone.

On May 22, 2013, at 7:03 AM, Max  wrote:

> Hard to believe a $10k paint job would leave the rust underneath, but I 
> suppose it's possible.
> -- 
> Max Dillon
> Charleston, SC
> '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
> 
> Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>> No thanks!   painted over rust, worn out  $5000 gwagon at best.  Even 
>> for $5000, I think I'd buy something else.
>> 
>> 
>>> http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/3772297759.html
>>> 
>>> For the asking price, I think I'd expect a 5-speed conversion, as well
>> as
>>> something done to fix up the interior beyond sheepskins.
>>> 
>>> Alex
>> 
>> ___
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> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Batmobile in rattle can grey

[Mitch Haley]

Hendrik and fay wrote:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/mecedes-benz-190e-auto-body-kit-1986-/261219127254?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item3cd1df8fd6 


And there are plenty of people out there selling homemade copies (molds pulled 
off factory parts) of 16v and Evolution body parts, so who would buy something 
that's both ugly and aerodynamically wrong?


Should have opened the doors when using the rattle cans.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Chipper/Shreaders

[Mitch Haley]

OK Don wrote:

We are in the market for a used Chipper'Shreader (or new if used are not
feasable). The few that I've found with reasonable prices on Craigslist do
not get glowing reports when I search for parts availability.
Does anyone have experience with these? What are your opinions?
The two that look best (with the exception of the complaints on variuos
forums) are:
Troy-Bilt Super Tomahawk Chipper/Shredder with 8hp Briggs & Stratton engine

and

Renegade 250.8 chipper shredder. The unit has the 8 HP Briggs and Stratton
engine




Sometimes it's easier to turn them into ashes, which make decent fertilizer.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] CL W115 220D find (THESE THINGS RUN FOREVER)!

[G Mann]

That will buff right out... ;


On Wed, May 22, 2013 at 12:52 AM, Chris James  wrote:

>
> Just a  LITTLE rusty.
>
> http://atlanta.craigslist.org/**nat/cto/3814905491.html
>
> I'd be afraid of falling through the floor while driving!
>
> --
> Chris J.
>
>
> __**_
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Re: [MBZ] OT- 2014 Chevy Cruze 2.0 TurboDiesel

[Gerry Archer]

I wonder who makes the engine?
Gerry

From: 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT- 2014 Chevy Cruze 2.0 TurboDiesel



MSRP of 26K. I'd rather buy a Jetta TDI.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 22, 2013, at 3:22 AM, Chris James  wrote:

Not sure if anyone's been following the Cruze diesel.looks like 
they're finally hitting dealer lots!


YouTube link:
2014 Cruze 2.0 Clean Diesel walk around and test drive
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oa7rqTJzBfE

--
Chris J.


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Re: [MBZ] Oil Level Sensor

[OK Don]

Next time you change the oil, take it out and clean it.


On Wed, May 22, 2013 at 7:09 AM, Max  wrote:

> On my OM606 and OM603, 'tis a simple float with contract switch.  Starts
> blinking when oil level falls below the middle of the two marks.
> --
> Max Dillon
> Charleston, SC
> '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
>
> Dan Penoff  wrote:
>
> >I had another instance where my low oil level light came on, despite
> >there being plenty of oil in the engine and having a good connection to
> >the sender.
> >
> >I am not familiar with this device on the W140. Is it a temperature
> >coefficient sort of device, or dies it use some other means of sensing
> >the level?
> >
> >Also, is it something that may require cleaning?
> >
> >Dan
> >___
> >http://www.okiebenz.com
> >For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> >To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
> ___
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> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>



-- 
OK Don
2013 F150
2012 Passat TDI DSG
1957 C182A
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Re: [MBZ] OT- 2014 Chevy Cruze 2.0 TurboDiesel

[WILTON]

'Cause GM automobile dvisions proved 35 years ago they can't build a Diesel 
engine for cars, though their truck and generator divisions have been 
building world champ Diesels since the '30's?  Wonder if enough buyers have 
forgotten (or been born since the last one) to make this one a winner?


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Gerry Archer" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 10:14 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT- 2014 Chevy Cruze 2.0 TurboDiesel



I wonder who makes the engine?
Gerry

From: 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT- 2014 Chevy Cruze 2.0 TurboDiesel



MSRP of 26K. I'd rather buy a Jetta TDI.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 22, 2013, at 3:22 AM, Chris James  wrote:

Not sure if anyone's been following the Cruze diesel.looks like 
they're finally hitting dealer lots!


YouTube link:
2014 Cruze 2.0 Clean Diesel walk around and test drive
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oa7rqTJzBfE

--
Chris J.


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Re: [MBZ] OT- 2014 Chevy Cruze 2.0 TurboDiesel

[dseretakis]

It's probably a Japanese engine.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 22, 2013, at 11:25 AM, "WILTON"  wrote:

> 'Cause GM automobile dvisions proved 35 years ago they can't build a Diesel 
> engine for cars, though their truck and generator divisions have been 
> building world champ Diesels since the '30's?  Wonder if enough buyers have 
> forgotten (or been born since the last one) to make this one a winner?
> 
> Wilton
> 
> - Original Message - From: "Gerry Archer" 
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 10:14 AM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT- 2014 Chevy Cruze 2.0 TurboDiesel
> 
> 
>> I wonder who makes the engine?
>> Gerry
>> 
>> From: 
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT- 2014 Chevy Cruze 2.0 TurboDiesel
>> 
>> 
>>> MSRP of 26K. I'd rather buy a Jetta TDI.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> On May 22, 2013, at 3:22 AM, Chris James  wrote:
>>> 
 Not sure if anyone's been following the Cruze diesel.looks like 
 they're finally hitting dealer lots!
 
 YouTube link:
 2014 Cruze 2.0 Clean Diesel walk around and test drive
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oa7rqTJzBfE
 
 -- 
 Chris J.
 
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
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>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>>> 
>>> 
>>> -
>>> No virus found in this message.
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>> Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5847 - Release Date: 05/22/13
>> 
>> 
>> ___
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>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> 
> ___
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] CL W115 220D find (THESE THINGS RUN FOREVER)!

[Randy Bennell]

On 22/05/2013 2:52 AM, Chris James wrote:


Just a  LITTLE rusty.

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/3814905491.html

I'd be afraid of falling through the floor while driving!


Or worse. Are those door sills not structural on the 115?

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Chipper/Shreaders

[Randy Bennell]

On 21/05/2013 9:13 PM, OK Don wrote:

We are in the market for a used Chipper'Shreader (or new if used are not
feasable). The few that I've found with reasonable prices on Craigslist do
not get glowing reports when I search for parts availability.
Does anyone have experience with these? What are your opinions?
The two that look best (with the exception of the complaints on variuos
forums) are:
Troy-Bilt Super Tomahawk Chipper/Shredder with 8hp Briggs & Stratton engine

and

Renegade 250.8 chipper shredder. The unit has the 8 HP Briggs and Stratton
engine



I have an Earthquake brand unit acquired from Menard's for roughly $500 
if I recall.
The only issue I have had so far is the plastic funnel type thing that 
one pushed the branches into has cracked.
I see that the newer ones have a metal unit in place of the plastic one 
I have.

Mine would be convertible and will be if it gets bad enough.

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] On the road again] and a new issue

[Randy Bennell]

I noted earlier that I had driven my old 115 300D to the cottage and 
back on the weekend and that it rained fairly hard most of the weekend 
while the car sat outside in the driveway and including the whole trip 
back which was 3 plus hours at highway speed.
I do not know if it was wet when I left - IE - if it was leaking while 
parked or if it is something related to the time when the car was moving.
I discovered last evening that the carpet in both rear footwells is 
saturated with water.
So, where would I look first? Could be many things I assume. Holes in 
the floor pan from rust? Bad door seals? etc??
I don't think the front got wet but I will re-check that this evening to 
be certain.


Anyone know if I should remove the back seat and have a look under it 
too? Don't want a puddle that will contribute to rusting.
And if so, how do I remove the seat? I don't think I have done that 
before and if I have, I don't recall what I did.


Randy

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Re: [MBZ] Oil Level Sensor

[Dan Penoff]

Can it be removed easily?

Looking at the parts diagrams it appears to be a fairly large device (float?).  
I don't recall there being a cover where the wire enters the side of the oil 
pan, but I wasn't looking at it closely the last time I was down there.

Thanks!

Dan

On May 22, 2013, at 10:59 AM, OK Don  wrote:

> Next time you change the oil, take it out and clean it.
> 
> 
> On Wed, May 22, 2013 at 7:09 AM, Max  wrote:
> 
>> On my OM606 and OM603, 'tis a simple float with contract switch.  Starts
>> blinking when oil level falls below the middle of the two marks.
>> --
>> Max Dillon
>> Charleston, SC
>> '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
>> 
>> Dan Penoff  wrote:
>> 
>>> I had another instance where my low oil level light came on, despite
>>> there being plenty of oil in the engine and having a good connection to
>>> the sender.
>>> 
>>> I am not familiar with this device on the W140. Is it a temperature
>>> coefficient sort of device, or dies it use some other means of sensing
>>> the level?
>>> 
>>> Also, is it something that may require cleaning?
>>> 
>>> Dan
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> OK Don
> 2013 F150
> 2012 Passat TDI DSG
> 1957 C182A
> ___
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> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] On the road again] and a new issue

[Dan Penoff]

Classic indicator of a rear window seal leak.

Pull the rear seat bottom and see if you can identify any water incursion 
through the area.

123s and 126s were prone to this sort of leak as well.

Dan

On May 22, 2013, at 11:49 AM, Randy Bennell  wrote:

> I noted earlier that I had driven my old 115 300D to the cottage and back on 
> the weekend and that it rained fairly hard most of the weekend while the car 
> sat outside in the driveway and including the whole trip back which was 3 
> plus hours at highway speed.
> I do not know if it was wet when I left - IE - if it was leaking while parked 
> or if it is something related to the time when the car was moving.
> I discovered last evening that the carpet in both rear footwells is saturated 
> with water.
> So, where would I look first? Could be many things I assume. Holes in the 
> floor pan from rust? Bad door seals? etc??
> I don't think the front got wet but I will re-check that this evening to be 
> certain.
> 
> Anyone know if I should remove the back seat and have a look under it too? 
> Don't want a puddle that will contribute to rusting.
> And if so, how do I remove the seat? I don't think I have done that before 
> and if I have, I don't recall what I did.
> 
> Randy
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] On the road again] and a new issue

[Randy Bennell]

How do I get the seat out?

Randy

On 22/05/2013 10:52 AM, Dan Penoff wrote:

Classic indicator of a rear window seal leak.

Pull the rear seat bottom and see if you can identify any water incursion 
through the area.

123s and 126s were prone to this sort of leak as well.

Dan

On May 22, 2013, at 11:49 AM, Randy Bennell  wrote:


I noted earlier that I had driven my old 115 300D to the cottage and back on 
the weekend and that it rained fairly hard most of the weekend while the car 
sat outside in the driveway and including the whole trip back which was 3 plus 
hours at highway speed.
I do not know if it was wet when I left - IE - if it was leaking while parked 
or if it is something related to the time when the car was moving.
I discovered last evening that the carpet in both rear footwells is saturated 
with water.
So, where would I look first? Could be many things I assume. Holes in the floor 
pan from rust? Bad door seals? etc??
I don't think the front got wet but I will re-check that this evening to be 
certain.

Anyone know if I should remove the back seat and have a look under it too? 
Don't want a puddle that will contribute to rusting.
And if so, how do I remove the seat? I don't think I have done that before and 
if I have, I don't recall what I did.

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] Gelaendewagen mit OM617

[ernest breakfield]

if it were a 5-door in decent condition, a 300GD with a 617 turbo (and 
the matching automatic) transplant would easily fetch over $10K here 
now, and be pretty much my dreamwagen.


but $23.5K for this one? no way.


cheers!
e


On 21/May/13 20:01, Dieselhead wrote:
No thanks!   painted over rust, worn out  $5000 gwagon at best.  Even 
for $5000, I think I'd buy something else.




http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/3772297759.html

For the asking price, I think I'd expect a 5-speed conversion, as 
well as

something done to fix up the interior beyond sheepskins.

Alex


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Re: [MBZ] 1984 300D - won't start when hot.

[ernest breakfield]

probably should have started out mentioning this,...

since it sounds like you have a problem when you switch to the 
Diesel tank, that's a clue that you should look there.

basic; how's the fuel in the Diesel tank? fresh and uncontaminated?
if the fuel's good, it sounds like something's wrong with something 
in the Diesel side of the switchover system.


have you been able to get a response to this question from Frybrid?


cheers!
e


On 22/May/13 04:28, Mike Esh wrote:
I have a Frybrid vegoil system that I have been using for about 35,000 
miles.  Most of the time if I shut down without purging the the vegoil 
with diesel it starts.  When I purge and try to restart with diesel it 
does not start.


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Re: [MBZ] On the road again] and a new issue

[Dan Penoff]

It's been a while since I have pulled a rear seat on a W114/115, but if its 
like others of the same vintage, at the bottom leading edge on each section of 
the seat there is a metal tab with a red plastic cover that you press down to 
release it.

If not, there could be a small wire "U" with a bolt that secures it in the same 
area.

If you find nothing of the sort described above, just try lifting up on the 
leading edge.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

On May 22, 2013, at 11:59 AM, Randy Bennell  wrote:

> 
> How do I get the seat out?
> 
> Randy
> 
> On 22/05/2013 10:52 AM, Dan Penoff wrote:
>> Classic indicator of a rear window seal leak.
>> 
>> Pull the rear seat bottom and see if you can identify any water incursion 
>> through the area.
>> 
>> 123s and 126s were prone to this sort of leak as well.
>> 
>> Dan
>> 
>> On May 22, 2013, at 11:49 AM, Randy Bennell  wrote:
>> 
>>> I noted earlier that I had driven my old 115 300D to the cottage and back 
>>> on the weekend and that it rained fairly hard most of the weekend while the 
>>> car sat outside in the driveway and including the whole trip back which was 
>>> 3 plus hours at highway speed.
>>> I do not know if it was wet when I left - IE - if it was leaking while 
>>> parked or if it is something related to the time when the car was moving.
>>> I discovered last evening that the carpet in both rear footwells is 
>>> saturated with water.
>>> So, where would I look first? Could be many things I assume. Holes in the 
>>> floor pan from rust? Bad door seals? etc??
>>> I don't think the front got wet but I will re-check that this evening to be 
>>> certain.
>>> 
>>> Anyone know if I should remove the back seat and have a look under it too? 
>>> Don't want a puddle that will contribute to rusting.
>>> And if so, how do I remove the seat? I don't think I have done that before 
>>> and if I have, I don't recall what I did.
>>> 
>>> Randy
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] 1984 300D - won't start when hot.

[Mike Esh]

I emailed them last year and they said to look for an air leak. I have not 
discovered an air leak and I have gone through system multiple times. They 
were not much help with this problem.

Michael E. Esh
me...@horizonenv.com
michael...@mac.com
http://www.yugster.com/invite/138123
(C) 231.286.2344


On May 22, 2013, at 12:33 PM, ernest breakfield 
 wrote:


probably should have started out mentioning this,...

since it sounds like you have a problem when you switch to the
Diesel tank, that's a clue that you should look there.
basic; how's the fuel in the Diesel tank? fresh and uncontaminated?
if the fuel's good, it sounds like something's wrong with something
in the Diesel side of the switchover system.

have you been able to get a response to this question from Frybrid?


cheers!
e


On 22/May/13 04:28, Mike Esh wrote:
> I have a Frybrid vegoil system that I have been using for about 35,000
> miles. Most of the time if I shut down without purging the the vegoil
> with diesel it starts. When I purge and try to restart with diesel it
> does not start.

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Re: [MBZ] On the road again] and a new issue

[Rich Thomas]

Or just push the bottom of the seat near the catch to the rear and pop 
it loose (might not work that way, but that is kind of a standard 
attaching arrangement).  Usually there is a U-bolt sort of thing on the 
seat and a plate on the floor with a little round recess for the U-bolt 
thingie to fit in.


--R

On 5/22/13 12:41 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:

It's been a while since I have pulled a rear seat on a W114/115, but if its 
like others of the same vintage, at the bottom leading edge on each section of 
the seat there is a metal tab with a red plastic cover that you press down to 
release it.

If not, there could be a small wire "U" with a bolt that secures it in the same 
area.

If you find nothing of the sort described above, just try lifting up on the 
leading edge.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

On May 22, 2013, at 11:59 AM, Randy Bennell  wrote:


How do I get the seat out?

Randy





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Re: [MBZ] 1984 300D - won't start when hot.

[John Reames]

Out of curiosity, pull the fuel cap off the diesel tank when it's hot...  
(Severely restricted/plugged tank vent?)

--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On May 22, 2013, at 12:49, Mike Esh  wrote:

> I emailed them last year and they said to look for an air leak. I have not 
> discovered an air leak and I have gone through system multiple times. They 
> were not much help with this problem.
> 
> Michael E. Esh
> me...@horizonenv.com
> michael...@mac.com
> http://www.yugster.com/invite/138123
> (C) 231.286.2344
> 
> 
> On May 22, 2013, at 12:33 PM, ernest breakfield 
>  wrote:
> 
>> probably should have started out mentioning this,...
>> 
>> since it sounds like you have a problem when you switch to the
>> Diesel tank, that's a clue that you should look there.
>> basic; how's the fuel in the Diesel tank? fresh and uncontaminated?
>> if the fuel's good, it sounds like something's wrong with something
>> in the Diesel side of the switchover system.
>> 
>> have you been able to get a response to this question from Frybrid?
>> 
>> 
>> cheers!
>> e
>> 
>> 
>> On 22/May/13 04:28, Mike Esh wrote:
>> > I have a Frybrid vegoil system that I have been using for about 35,000
>> > miles. Most of the time if I shut down without purging the the vegoil
>> > with diesel it starts. When I purge and try to restart with diesel it
>> > does not start.
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
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>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> ___
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Re: [MBZ] 1984 300D - won't start when hot.

[John Reames]

Also on the subject of leaks, replace the o-rings in the banjo bolt of the fuel 
filter, and check the condition of all of the clear plastic fuel lines, or 
their replacements.



--
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On May 22, 2013, at 12:49, Mike Esh  wrote:

> I emailed them last year and they said to look for an air leak. I have not 
> discovered an air leak and I have gone through system multiple times. They 
> were not much help with this problem.
> 
> Michael E. Esh
> me...@horizonenv.com
> michael...@mac.com
> http://www.yugster.com/invite/138123
> (C) 231.286.2344
> 
> 
> On May 22, 2013, at 12:33 PM, ernest breakfield 
>  wrote:
> 
>> probably should have started out mentioning this,...
>> 
>> since it sounds like you have a problem when you switch to the
>> Diesel tank, that's a clue that you should look there.
>> basic; how's the fuel in the Diesel tank? fresh and uncontaminated?
>> if the fuel's good, it sounds like something's wrong with something
>> in the Diesel side of the switchover system.
>> 
>> have you been able to get a response to this question from Frybrid?
>> 
>> 
>> cheers!
>> e
>> 
>> 
>> On 22/May/13 04:28, Mike Esh wrote:
>> > I have a Frybrid vegoil system that I have been using for about 35,000
>> > miles. Most of the time if I shut down without purging the the vegoil
>> > with diesel it starts. When I purge and try to restart with diesel it
>> > does not start.
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> ___
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> 
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Re: [MBZ] 1984 300D - won't start when hot.

[Dieselhead]

  Is there a way to test the pump while on the car, other than the 
cold water test.


Michael E. Esh
me...@horizonenv.com
michael...@mac.com
http://www.yugster.com/invite/138123
(C) 231.286.2344




No.  Only other test for IP is on a test bench at a Bosch fuel 
injection service center familiar with MB pumps.  Not all are.  MB 
keeps some parts and specs "secret" ,but some shops know how to get 
that info.


But any injection shop with a Bosch approved test bench should be 
able to tell you is the pump is worn out.   Some of them may be able 
to tell if it is really bad while still in the car.


I'd try Grant's water hose test.

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[MBZ] 300d won't start when hot

[Rick Hawkins Java]

I assume you have WVO in the original tank

i'd plumb the system so you have tank, fuel line, pre filter, filter  
to IP and run on straight WVO


or siphon out the WVO and put diesel in the main tank for a while

i assume it's over 50 f where you are  then i'll bet it always  
starts


THEN start adding back the complications

you have a myriad of places where you can have an air leak in either  
your switchover valve, diesel tank, etc, etc



thanks,

xx rick
Rick Hawkins
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Level Sensor

[Dieselhead]

They are known to be flakey on OM603.   I had one where I replaced 
the sensor checked everything else.   No change.  Just a flakey thing.




I had another instance where my low oil level light came on, despite 
there being plenty of oil in the engine and having a good connection 
to the sender.


I am not familiar with this device on the W140. Is it a temperature 
coefficient sort of device, or dies it use some other means of 
sensing the level?


Also, is it something that may require cleaning?

Dan


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[MBZ] OT cheap clamp meter

[Rich Thomas]

I order random cheepchineechit from DealExtreme occasionally, you pretty 
much get what you pay for but it generally works.  I was thinking that 
one of these things might be worthwhile, and there is a whole raft of 
other ones too.


Thoughts from any well-informed opiners?

https://dx.com/p/1-5-lcd-multi-function-digital-clamp-multimeter-green-3-x-aaa-145283

--R

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Re: [MBZ] 1984 300D - won't start when hot.

[Randy Bennell]

Mike, what were you running on when it quit on the way to the airport?
If on the WVO system, then I don't see how the post below would apply.
From what I recall, your issue is generally when the engine is hot and 
not on cold starts.
Does that not imply just the opposite? That the issue is with the WVO 
system?

Or did I miss something along the way?

Randy


On 22/05/2013 11:33 AM, ernest breakfield wrote:

probably should have started out mentioning this,...

since it sounds like you have a problem when you switch to the 
Diesel tank, that's a clue that you should look there.

basic; how's the fuel in the Diesel tank? fresh and uncontaminated?
if the fuel's good, it sounds like something's wrong with 
something in the Diesel side of the switchover system.


have you been able to get a response to this question from Frybrid?


cheers!
e


On 22/May/13 04:28, Mike Esh wrote:
I have a Frybrid vegoil system that I have been using for about 
35,000 miles.  Most of the time if I shut down without purging the 
the vegoil with diesel it starts.  When I purge and try to restart 
with diesel it does not start.


___




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Re: [MBZ] On the road again] and a new issue

[Alex Chamberlain]

On May 22, 2013 8:52 AM, "Dan Penoff"  wrote:
>
> Classic indicator of a rear window
> seal leak.
>
> Pull the rear seat bottom and see if
> you can identify any water incursion
> through the area.
>
> 123s and 126s were prone to this sort
> of leak as well.
>

What about 124 sedans?  I have been chasing a mystery leak in my '87 for
over a year.  After a few days of heavy rain, sometimes the rear passenger
floor gets wet and sometimes the recesses under the back seat, but always
on the right side.

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] OT- 2014 Chevy Cruze 2.0 TurboDiesel

[Alex Chamberlain]

On May 22, 2013 8:28 AM,  wrote:
>
> It's probably a Japanese engine.

The horror!

All the info I can find online says that it's a GM design, part of an
established family of small diesels they've sold in Europe for several
years (in Vauxhalls and Opels).  OTOH, GM still owns most or all of Isuzu
even after the government bailout, so the engine may in fact have been
designed in Japan.

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] OT- 2014 Chevy Cruze 2.0 TurboDiesel

[Gerry Archer]

Might not be too bad if it's a (Mitsubishi engine?) that appears in several
Japanese cars IIRC.
Gerry

From: 

It's probably a Japanese engine.

On May 22, 2013, at 11:25 AM, "WILTON"  wrote:


'Cause GM automobile dvisions proved 35 years ago they can't build a
Diesel engine for cars, though their truck and generator divisions have
been building world champ Diesels since the '30's?  Wonder if enough
buyers have forgotten (or been born since the last one) to make this one
a winner?

Wilton

- Original Message - From: "Gerry Archer"

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 10:14 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT- 2014 Chevy Cruze 2.0 TurboDiesel



I wonder who makes the engine?
Gerry

From: 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT- 2014 Chevy Cruze 2.0 TurboDiesel



MSRP of 26K. I'd rather buy a Jetta TDI.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 22, 2013, at 3:22 AM, Chris James  wrote:


Not sure if anyone's been following the Cruze diesel.looks like
they're finally hitting dealer lots!

YouTube link:
2014 Cruze 2.0 Clean Diesel walk around and test drive
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oa7rqTJzBfE

--
Chris J.


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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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05/22/13



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Re: [MBZ] OT- 2014 Chevy Cruze 2.0 TurboDiesel

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

I will drive one when I see one and let you all know.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 22, 2013, at 2:22 PM, "Gerry Archer"  wrote:

> Might not be too bad if it's a (Mitsubishi engine?) that appears in several
> Japanese cars IIRC.
> Gerry
> 
> From: 
>> It's probably a Japanese engine.
>> 
>> On May 22, 2013, at 11:25 AM, "WILTON"  wrote:
>> 
>>> 'Cause GM automobile dvisions proved 35 years ago they can't build a
>>> Diesel engine for cars, though their truck and generator divisions have
>>> been building world champ Diesels since the '30's?  Wonder if enough
>>> buyers have forgotten (or been born since the last one) to make this one
>>> a winner?
>>> 
>>> Wilton
>>> 
>>> - Original Message - From: "Gerry Archer"
>>> 
>>> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
>>> Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 10:14 AM
>>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT- 2014 Chevy Cruze 2.0 TurboDiesel
>>> 
>>> 
 I wonder who makes the engine?
 Gerry
 
 From: 
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT- 2014 Chevy Cruze 2.0 TurboDiesel
 
 
> MSRP of 26K. I'd rather buy a Jetta TDI.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On May 22, 2013, at 3:22 AM, Chris James  wrote:
> 
>> Not sure if anyone's been following the Cruze diesel.looks like
>> they're finally hitting dealer lots!
>> 
>> YouTube link:
>> 2014 Cruze 2.0 Clean Diesel walk around and test drive
>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oa7rqTJzBfE
>> 
>> -- 
>> Chris J.
>> 
>> 
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>> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> -
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> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5847 - Release Date:
> 05/22/13
 
 
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>>> 
>>> 
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Re: [MBZ] OT cheap clamp meter

[Craig]

On Wed, 22 May 2013 14:14:04 -0400 Rich Thomas
 wrote:

> I order random cheepchineechit from DealExtreme occasionally, you
> pretty much get what you pay for but it generally works.  I was
> thinking that one of these things might be worthwhile, and there is a
> whole raft of other ones too.
> 
> Thoughts from any well-informed opiners?
> 
> https://dx.com/p/1-5-lcd-multi-function-digital-clamp-multimeter-green-3-x-aaa-145283

It looks like a decent meter. It has useful scales and ranges.

I cannot comment on the quality nor accuracy.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Gelaendewagen mit OM617

[clay]

I have tried both the bed liner stuff and POR 15 as solutions for trunk rust 
issues.

220D had trunk floor akin to swiss cheese that was not going to fix quickly.  I 
got some 14 gauge sheet steel and cut out the rusty bits and welded the fresh 
steel.  I then sanded the whole mess and swabbed the deck of debris.  Once dry 
I gave it a good coat of primer and then followed that up with sopping rollers 
of bed liner.   Underside got a shot of primer after sanding and then under 
coat.  One year later there were some adhesions issues and incipient rust.

450SL was in better condition with pinholes and surface rust.  I chose the POR 
15 route and went to bare metal, used the wash and primer products then painted 
on the POR product.  This was far simpler and cleaner to use while providing a 
good coverage which built up the pinholes to the point of closure after a 
number of coatings.  Being a trunk, I was able to recoat swiftly, as the 
product would be dry enough to take another coat once I had ended the last.  
Underside areas of rust got sanded and excess POR was brushed where it had 
leaked out.  Undercoat was applied after it had all cured.  No rust showing 
through, even though the trunk does hold a bit of water.

 

clay 


1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers








On May 22, 2013, at 6:59 AM, Charles Scruggs wrote:

> I repainted my G and had to replace both floor panels, door sills, and both 
> taillight panels.  I also painted the new and original floor panels with 
> truck bed liner(did myself). I spent less about 6k. To get to 10k for a paint 
> job, seems you would need a frame off recon. 
> 
> Sent from Dr. Scruggs, Gulf Coast Oral, Facial, and Dental Implant Surgery 
> iPhone.
> 
> On May 22, 2013, at 7:03 AM, Max  wrote:
> 
>> Hard to believe a $10k paint job would leave the rust underneath, but I 
>> suppose it's possible.
>> -- 
>> Max Dillon
>> Charleston, SC
>> '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
>> 
>> Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> No thanks!   painted over rust, worn out  $5000 gwagon at best.  Even 
>>> for $5000, I think I'd buy something else.
>>> 
>>> 
 http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/3772297759.html
 
 For the asking price, I think I'd expect a 5-speed conversion, as well
>>> as
 something done to fix up the interior beyond sheepskins.
 
 Alex
>>> 
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>> 
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] OT- 2014 Chevy Cruze 2.0 TurboDiesel

[Bob Rentfro]

The LUVs were Isuzus, right? Those were nice little units.

Bob R
On May 22, 2013 12:22 PM, "Gerry Archer"  wrote:

> Might not be too bad if it's a (Mitsubishi engine?) that appears in several
> Japanese cars IIRC.
> Gerry
>
> From: 
>
>> It's probably a Japanese engine.
>>
>> On May 22, 2013, at 11:25 AM, "WILTON"  wrote:
>>
>>  'Cause GM automobile dvisions proved 35 years ago they can't build a
>>> Diesel engine for cars, though their truck and generator divisions have
>>> been building world champ Diesels since the '30's?  Wonder if enough
>>> buyers have forgotten (or been born since the last one) to make this one
>>> a winner?
>>>
>>> Wilton
>>>
>>> - Original Message - From: "Gerry Archer"
>>> 
>>> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
>>> Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 10:14 AM
>>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT- 2014 Chevy Cruze 2.0 TurboDiesel
>>>
>>>
>>>  I wonder who makes the engine?
 Gerry

 From: 
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT- 2014 Chevy Cruze 2.0 TurboDiesel


  MSRP of 26K. I'd rather buy a Jetta TDI.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 22, 2013, at 3:22 AM, Chris James  wrote:
>
>  Not sure if anyone's been following the Cruze diesel.looks like
>> they're finally hitting dealer lots!
>>
>> YouTube link:
>> 2014 Cruze 2.0 Clean Diesel walk around and test drive
>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?**v=Oa7rqTJzBfE
>>
>> --
>> Chris J.
>>
>>
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>>
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>>>
>>>
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Re: [MBZ] Drive belt for Toyota

[Smith, Todd]

I had seen those but I wasn't sure if they worked very well since most of the 
Haynes manuals and auto-repair always reference the "Nippodenso or Burroughs 
belt tension gauge"

I will have to pick one up.

Thanks
Todd


From: Mercedes [mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Gerry Archer 
[arche...@embarqmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 4:08 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Drive belt for Toyota

The "Krikit" (sp?) is available at NAPA for about ten or twenty dollars.
Many on the list use them, as do I, with good results.
Gerry
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Re: [MBZ] Drive belt for Toyota

[Smith, Todd]

Great!

That seems to be reasonably priced for what I need.

Todd


From: Mercedes [mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rick Knoble 
[rickkno...@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 5:26 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Drive belt for Toyota

Gates 91107 Belt Tension Tester

http://amzn.com/B000MUTAGS

Rick
Sent from my iPhone
Confidentiality Note: The information contained in this message 
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Re: [MBZ] OT- 2014 Chevy Cruze 2.0 TurboDiesel

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Yes. The duramax is also Isuzu 

Sent from my iPhone

On May 22, 2013, at 2:55 PM, Bob Rentfro  wrote:

> The LUVs were Isuzus, right? Those were nice little units.
> 
> Bob R
> On May 22, 2013 12:22 PM, "Gerry Archer"  wrote:
> 
>> Might not be too bad if it's a (Mitsubishi engine?) that appears in several
>> Japanese cars IIRC.
>> Gerry
>> 
>> From: 
>> 
>>> It's probably a Japanese engine.
>>> 
>>> On May 22, 2013, at 11:25 AM, "WILTON"  wrote:
>>> 
>>> 'Cause GM automobile dvisions proved 35 years ago they can't build a
 Diesel engine for cars, though their truck and generator divisions have
 been building world champ Diesels since the '30's?  Wonder if enough
 buyers have forgotten (or been born since the last one) to make this one
 a winner?
 
 Wilton
 
 - Original Message - From: "Gerry Archer"
 
 To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
 Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 10:14 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT- 2014 Chevy Cruze 2.0 TurboDiesel
 
 
 I wonder who makes the engine?
> Gerry
> 
> From: 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT- 2014 Chevy Cruze 2.0 TurboDiesel
> 
> 
> MSRP of 26K. I'd rather buy a Jetta TDI.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> On May 22, 2013, at 3:22 AM, Chris James  wrote:
>> 
>> Not sure if anyone's been following the Cruze diesel.looks like
>>> they're finally hitting dealer lots!
>>> 
>>> YouTube link:
>>> 2014 Cruze 2.0 Clean Diesel walk around and test drive
>>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?**v=Oa7rqTJzBfE
>>> 
>>> --
>>> Chris J.
>>> 
>>> 
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>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5847 - Release Date:
>> 05/22/13
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Re: [MBZ] OT- 2014 Chevy Cruze 2.0 TurboDiesel

[Mitch Haley]

Bob Rentfro wrote:

The LUVs were Isuzus, right? Those were nice little units.


Yes, Isuzu P'up = Chevy LUV.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Oil Level Sensor

[Max]

I actually replaced it with a new sensor, no change in behavior.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

OK Don  wrote:

>Next time you change the oil, take it out and clean it.
>
>
>On Wed, May 22, 2013 at 7:09 AM, Max  wrote:
>
>> On my OM606 and OM603, 'tis a simple float with contract switch. 
>Starts
>> blinking when oil level falls below the middle of the two marks.
>> --
>> Max Dillon
>> Charleston, SC
>> '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
>>
>> Dan Penoff  wrote:
>>
>> >I had another instance where my low oil level light came on, despite
>> >there being plenty of oil in the engine and having a good connection
>to
>> >the sender.
>> >
>> >I am not familiar with this device on the W140. Is it a temperature
>> >coefficient sort of device, or dies it use some other means of
>sensing
>> >the level?
>> >
>> >Also, is it something that may require cleaning?
>> >
>> >Dan
>> >___
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>> >
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Level Sensor

[Max]

Probably one bolt and an o-ring to replace.

-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Dan Penoff  wrote:

>Can it be removed easily?
>
>Looking at the parts diagrams it appears to be a fairly large device
>(float?).  I don't recall there being a cover where the wire enters the
>side of the oil pan, but I wasn't looking at it closely the last time I
>was down there.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Dan
>
>On May 22, 2013, at 10:59 AM, OK Don  wrote:
>
>> Next time you change the oil, take it out and clean it.
>> 
>> 
>> On Wed, May 22, 2013 at 7:09 AM, Max 
>wrote:
>> 
>>> On my OM606 and OM603, 'tis a simple float with contract switch. 
>Starts
>>> blinking when oil level falls below the middle of the two marks.
>>> --
>>> Max Dillon
>>> Charleston, SC
>>> '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
>>> 
>>> Dan Penoff  wrote:
>>> 
 I had another instance where my low oil level light came on,
>despite
 there being plenty of oil in the engine and having a good
>connection to
 the sender.
 
 I am not familiar with this device on the W140. Is it a temperature
 coefficient sort of device, or dies it use some other means of
>sensing
 the level?
 
 Also, is it something that may require cleaning?
 
 Dan
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>>> 
>>> 
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>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> OK Don
>> 2013 F150
>> 2012 Passat TDI DSG
>> 1957 C182A
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Re: [MBZ] OT- 2014 Chevy Cruze 2.0 TurboDiesel

[Chris James]

Here is the press release:
http://media.gm.com/content/media/us/en/chevrolet/vehicles/cruze-diesel/2014.html?id=1369252162539

Cruzetalk forum:
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/64-chevy-cruze-diesel/

I was disappointed to see only one trim level was being offered for the 
diesel, with a few options pushing the MSRP to $30K! You could have a 
better equipped pre-owned MB diesel or two for that (or one new gasser 
CLA!)!


We've been hearing "the diesels are coming, the diesels are coming", for 
nearly a decade now! Was hoping there'd be more (affordable models) on 
offer by now, better then nothing I guess. Mazda should follow with the 
6 later this year.


On 5/22/2013 7:04 AM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

MSRP of 26K. I'd rather buy a Jetta TDI.



--
Chris J.

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Re: [MBZ] Drive belt for Toyota

[Alex Chamberlain]

On May 22, 2013 2:26 AM, "Rick Knoble"  wrote:
>
> Gates 91107 Belt Tension Tester
>
> http://amzn.com/B000MUTAGS

I've never seen or used a belt tension tester.  Is it really so important
to get tension exactly right on some belts that you can't just do it by
feel?

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] Drive belt for Toyota

[Dan Penoff]

Absolutely.

I used to work with industrial engines the size of a small house.  They used 
multi-V belts for accessory drives, such as fans and alternators.  We had tools 
that we used to measure the belt tension, because it was critical enough that 
if the belt failed it could sling it off hard enough to kill someone or do 
serious damage to the equipment.

The old "half inch deflection" was only good for single V belts.  Multi V belts 
such as the ones used on MBs and most cars nowadays are very sensitive to 
tension.

Dan


On May 22, 2013, at 5:57 PM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:

> On May 22, 2013 2:26 AM, "Rick Knoble"  wrote:
>> 
>> Gates 91107 Belt Tension Tester
>> 
>> http://amzn.com/B000MUTAGS
> 
> I've never seen or used a belt tension tester.  Is it really so important
> to get tension exactly right on some belts that you can't just do it by
> feel?
> 
> Alex
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Level Sensor

[Dan Penoff]

I'm getting conflicting information on this.

>From what it sounds like, the level sender/sensor on the W140/M119 is a 
>totally different device than the one used on the 603.

Someone give me a model number (350SDL?) and a year and I will look one up.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

On May 22, 2013, at 1:47 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

> They are known to be flakey on OM603.   I had one where I replaced the sensor 
> checked everything else.   No change.  Just a flakey thing.
> 
> 
> 
>> I had another instance where my low oil level light came on, despite there 
>> being plenty of oil in the engine and having a good connection to the sender.
>> 
>> I am not familiar with this device on the W140. Is it a temperature 
>> coefficient sort of device, or dies it use some other means of sensing the 
>> level?
>> 
>> Also, is it something that may require cleaning?
>> 
>> Dan
> 
> ___
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Re: [MBZ] Drive belt for Toyota

[Mitch Haley]

Dan Penoff wrote:


The old "half inch deflection" was only good for single V belts.  Multi V belts 
such as the ones used on MBs and most cars nowadays are very sensitive to tension.


The good news is the multi v belts (aka serpentine belts, right?) are usually 
spring tensioned, and hold tension within spec unless the spring breaks.

(I had a tensioner spring break on a Ford Taurus once)

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Drive belt for Toyota

[Rich Thomas]

I used to release a lot of tension during spring breaks.

--R


On 5/22/13 6:37 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:

Dan Penoff wrote:

The old "half inch deflection" was only good for single V belts.  
Multi V belts such as the ones used on MBs and most cars nowadays are 
very sensitive to tension.


The good news is the multi v belts (aka serpentine belts, right?) are 
usually spring tensioned, and hold tension within spec unless the 
spring breaks.

(I had a tensioner spring break on a Ford Taurus once)

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] CL W115 220D find (THESE THINGS RUN FOREVER)!

[Peter Frederick]

"just a little rust" is why mine is gone, and my brother W115 300D is  
on the way out.  Not enough metal left to weld things to.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] OT cheap clamp meter

[Max]

Doesn't appear to measure DC current, which is really useful for diagnosing bad 
glow plugs.

-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Rich Thomas  wrote:

>I order random cheepchineechit from DealExtreme occasionally, you
>pretty 
>much get what you pay for but it generally works.  I was thinking that 
>one of these things might be worthwhile, and there is a whole raft of 
>other ones too.
>
>Thoughts from any well-informed opiners?
>
>https://dx.com/p/1-5-lcd-multi-function-digital-clamp-multimeter-green-3-x-aaa-145283
>
>--R
>
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Level Sensor

[Max]

1995 E300.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Dan Penoff  wrote:

>I'm getting conflicting information on this.
>
>From what it sounds like, the level sender/sensor on the W140/M119 is a
>totally different device than the one used on the 603.
>
>Someone give me a model number (350SDL?) and a year and I will look one
>up.
>
>Dan
>
>Sent from my iPad
>
>On May 22, 2013, at 1:47 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> They are known to be flakey on OM603.   I had one where I replaced
>the sensor checked everything else.   No change.  Just a flakey thing.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> I had another instance where my low oil level light came on, despite
>there being plenty of oil in the engine and having a good connection to
>the sender.
>>> 
>>> I am not familiar with this device on the W140. Is it a temperature
>coefficient sort of device, or dies it use some other means of sensing
>the level?
>>> 
>>> Also, is it something that may require cleaning?
>>> 
>>> Dan
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>> 
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>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
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Re: [MBZ] On the road again] and a new issue

[Max]

Could it also be leaking at bottom corner(s) of the windshield?  I think on 123 
cars water entering in the front will flow to pool in the back.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Randy Bennell  wrote:

>I noted earlier that I had driven my old 115 300D to the cottage and 
>back on the weekend and that it rained fairly hard most of the weekend 
>while the car sat outside in the driveway and including the whole trip 
>back which was 3 plus hours at highway speed.
>I do not know if it was wet when I left - IE - if it was leaking while 
>parked or if it is something related to the time when the car was
>moving.
>I discovered last evening that the carpet in both rear footwells is 
>saturated with water.
>So, where would I look first? Could be many things I assume. Holes in 
>the floor pan from rust? Bad door seals? etc??
>I don't think the front got wet but I will re-check that this evening
>to 
>be certain.
>
>Anyone know if I should remove the back seat and have a look under it 
>too? Don't want a puddle that will contribute to rusting.
>And if so, how do I remove the seat? I don't think I have done that 
>before and if I have, I don't recall what I did.
>
>Randy
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT cheap clamp meter

[Craig]

On Wed, 22 May 2013 15:59:13 -0700 Max  wrote:

> Doesn't appear to measure DC current, which is really useful for
> diagnosing bad glow plugs.

Yes, clamp-on meters do not typically measure DC current. Those that do
have Hall-effect sensors in the magnetic loop that respond to DC and are
not cheap.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Drive belt for Toyota

[Craig]

On Wed, 22 May 2013 18:37:14 -0400 Mitch Haley  wrote:

> Dan Penoff wrote:
> 
> > The old "half inch deflection" was only good for single V belts.
> > Multi V belts such as the ones used on MBs and most cars nowadays are
> > very sensitive to tension.
> 
> The good news is the multi v belts (aka serpentine belts, right?)

No, not right. Multi-V belts have a V pulley groove for each part of the
multi.


> are usually spring tensioned, and hold tension within spec unless the
> spring breaks. (I had a tensioner spring break on a Ford Taurus once)
> 
> Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Oil Level Sensor

[Dan Penoff]

Totally different device.

>From what I can determine, the oil level sender on the M119 engine is some 
>sort of a float arrangement or probe that sits in the bottom of the oil pan 
>and is connected via a single wire to a connector on the outside of the oil 
>pan.  The pictures look like a little "can" or cylinder that is vertical, most 
>likely containing a float or probe of some sort.

Dan


On May 22, 2013, at 7:03 PM, Max wrote:

> 1995 E300.
> -- 
> Max Dillon
> Charleston, SC
> '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
> 
> Dan Penoff  wrote:
> 
>> I'm getting conflicting information on this.
>> 
>> From what it sounds like, the level sender/sensor on the W140/M119 is a
>> totally different device than the one used on the 603.
>> 
>> Someone give me a model number (350SDL?) and a year and I will look one
>> up.
>> 
>> Dan
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>> On May 22, 2013, at 1:47 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> They are known to be flakey on OM603.   I had one where I replaced
>> the sensor checked everything else.   No change.  Just a flakey thing.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
 I had another instance where my low oil level light came on, despite
>> there being plenty of oil in the engine and having a good connection to
>> the sender.
 
 I am not familiar with this device on the W140. Is it a temperature
>> coefficient sort of device, or dies it use some other means of sensing
>> the level?
 
 Also, is it something that may require cleaning?
 
 Dan
>>> 
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>> 
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> 
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[MBZ] Swedishness

[Dan Penoff]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8_7yPocGPg

Dan

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[MBZ] MB NL ASD ASR 4-matic promo vid

[Chris James]

Check out this cool 2 part 80's promo vid from Mercedes Netherlands, 
showcasing the ASD, ASR & 4-matic traction control & AWD systems on the 
W201, W124 & W126!


No, it's not in English, but if your familiar with the systems you can 
follow along! Can't imagine MBUSA ever allowing a W124 to be seen towing 
a boat, LOL!


Part 1:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u0b-0aC6wJ0

Part 2:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZmiznlV4WJg

--
Chris J.


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Re: [MBZ] On the road again] and a new issue

[clay]

Randy, 

check the front vent to see if you have rust through.

Other option is the windscreen.  It may look really good, but this is the #1 
seep area for front carpeting.  I was told that the new option for the seal is 
that classic center send the rear seal and tells you to play with it to make it 
fit.   

I had bad leaks in Gump.  Only place it could be coming in was that front 
glass.  Old seal, so I used RTV around the glass and under the seal where I 
could get at it.  It went from puddles, to trickle after driving all day rains.

clay


On May 22, 2013, at 8:49 AM, Randy Bennell wrote:

> I noted earlier that I had driven my old 115 300D to the cottage and back on 
> the weekend and that it rained fairly hard most of the weekend while the car 
> sat outside in the driveway and including the whole trip back which was 3 
> plus hours at highway speed.
> I do not know if it was wet when I left - IE - if it was leaking while parked 
> or if it is something related to the time when the car was moving.
> I discovered last evening that the carpet in both rear footwells is saturated 
> with water.
> So, where would I look first? Could be many things I assume. Holes in the 
> floor pan from rust? Bad door seals? etc??
> I don't think the front got wet but I will re-check that this evening to be 
> certain.
> 
> Anyone know if I should remove the back seat and have a look under it too? 
> Don't want a puddle that will contribute to rusting.
> And if so, how do I remove the seat? I don't think I have done that before 
> and if I have, I don't recall what I did.
> 
> Randy
> 
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[MBZ] Q2 save Me

[clay]

Since it is after hours, but I guess I can call in the morning  But if 
Trent is here, then saves time

I am going to do a water pump swap this weekend and am not overly interested in 
all the other hoses and such, got thinking that maybe I should at least have 
them on hand if I need to replace them.  BiL will be helping in his shop which 
is way out in the boonies from the closest FLAPs.  Best I take what I need with 
me.

I will probably need both trans cooler lines and the upper and lower radiator 
hoses, the bypass hose, maybe the expansion tank hose.  The others I should be 
able to re-use.  If I do not need the hoses this time, I can hold on and put 
them on the parts shelf.

Question is, can these be delivered to  Seattle Friday, or will I have missed 
that window?


clay 


1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers








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Re: [MBZ] Q2 save Me

[Craig]

On Wed, 22 May 2013 21:05:06 -0700 clay  wrote:

> Question is, can these be delivered to  Seattle Friday, or will I have
> missed that window?

Probably not if you FedEx overnight, but that will be .


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Q2 save Me

[clay]

Yeah, but I was hoping the bulk of this would be Worldpak stuff and comes from 
the local warehouse.  That usually happens when I get an order to Q before 
lunch.  

clay

On May 22, 2013, at 9:09 PM, Craig wrote:

> On Wed, 22 May 2013 21:05:06 -0700 clay  wrote:
> 
>> Question is, can these be delivered to  Seattle Friday, or will I have
>> missed that window?
> 
> Probably not if you FedEx overnight, but that will be .
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
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Re: [MBZ] OT cheap clamp meter

[Jim Cathey]

Thoughts from any well-informed opiners?


I think, that as a car owner/servicer, that one that will
measure DC current will be a lot more useful.  Other than
that it looks OK.

One of the 400A meters will do a nice job of measuring
starter current, for example.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] On the road again] and a new issue

[Jim Cathey]

Rear window seal.  It runs down from under the seat, it doesn't
really tend to puddle up under there.  The seat comes out with
a few 10mm bolts holding tabs on the seat bottom.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] OT cheap clamp meter

[Peter Frederick]

400A is way low for a diesel starter -- normal draw is more like 900,  
and it only goes up as the starter ages.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] OT cheap clamp meter

[Jim Cathey]

400A is way low for a diesel starter -- normal draw is more like 900, 
and it only goes up as the starter ages.


Huh, the 240D I measured was 55 A on the series glow plugs,
and 300+ A when I hit the starter.  I suppose the Fluke
could have been overloaded and lying, but I thought those
things tend to peg when overloaded rather than not.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] OT cheap clamp meter

[Peter Frederick]

A 615 or 616  in really good shape warm might draw as little as 300A,  
but the book says 900 on a less than brand new starter for a 603.


An old starter will draw 2000 and still start the car except when very  
cold.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Q2 save Me

[Trent Fiorini]

Q2 to the rescue. all hoses except the expansion tank (8x15mm) are in
stock. Can order first thing. Making sure they are for the 450. I can tell
them you need them friday, should not be a problem...

On Wed, May 22, 2013 at 11:05 PM, clay  wrote:

> Since it is after hours, but I guess I can call in the morning  But if
> Trent is here, then saves time
>
> I am going to do a water pump swap this weekend and am not overly
> interested in all the other hoses and such, got thinking that maybe I
> should at least have them on hand if I need to replace them.  BiL will be
> helping in his shop which is way out in the boonies from the closest FLAPs.
>  Best I take what I need with me.
>
> I will probably need both trans cooler lines and the upper and lower
> radiator hoses, the bypass hose, maybe the expansion tank hose.  The others
> I should be able to re-use.  If I do not need the hoses this time, I can
> hold on and put them on the parts shelf.
>
> Question is, can these be delivered to  Seattle Friday, or will I have
> missed that window?
>
>
> clay
>
>
> 1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
> 1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
> 1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
> POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>



-- 
Trent Fiorini
BuyMBparts, Inc.
1-800-741-5252
buymbpa...@gmail.com
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