[MBZ] Zerex G-05

2007-10-08 Thread David Johnson
Dear all,
  This most likely has been addressed before by this august forum, but I forgot 
how often the coolant should be changed.  Every 30 K? 3 years?
  Where do you get it these days? Used to be NAPA for my location.
  Thanks. 
  David
  83 300 DT
   

   
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Re: [MBZ] Fix or Sell?

2007-09-06 Thread David Johnson
Robert,
  I don't know how long ago and how the hose was rebuilt.This was done by the 
previous ownber.
  The leak is at the bottom, where the crimp fitting is. I saw drops of fluid 
coming out, and it was confirmed with UV light.  
  The labor for this thing is 3 hours, plus the cost of the evacuation, and 
filling up with 3 lbs of refrigerant. 
  David

Robert  Tara Ludwick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  I think you should sell the thing to me for $50 :-)
Seriously though, how long ago was the hose fixed before? Where exactly 
is it leaking now? the middle of the hose, at the crimp fittings? When 
   
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Re: [MBZ] Fix or Sell?

2007-09-06 Thread David Johnson
Kevin,
  This car was born and kept in California for 20 years, and then to AZ, so 
there's no rust problem. That's one reason I'm attached to the car. 
  On the other hand, I'd be really screwed if I fix this and then the 
transmission develops a problem,  
  If I sell this, probably will get a newer Honda CRV or something like that.
  David 

Kevin Kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  If you decided to sell the old 300Dt, what would replace it? You spent lots 
of money on it that you'll certainly never get back, and the chances are 
pretty good that a similar car may need the same things. 
   
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Re: [MBZ] Fix or Sell?

2007-09-06 Thread David Johnson
I'm in Arizona, so the AC is almost a necessity for most of the year. 
  I really need to fix or sell the car, unfortunately.

Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
Everybody gets to this point with a car sometime.
I'd say fix it or just live without AC. You didn't say where you live so that 
might not be possible. I've been without AC for 4 years and its annoying but 
not that big a deal.

I'd also suggest that fixing the AC will make the car easier to sell.

Where are you located? I've been looking for another car for awhile now.


-Curt

Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 20:57:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Johnson 
Subject: [MBZ] Fix or Sell?
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

The AC manifold hose in my 83 300 DT is leaking. It was rebuilt once
before, so my trusted indy recommended a replacement if I want to fix
it. The total bill will be in the neighborhood of $800-900, with parts
from Rusty. 
I don't know if I should proceed this route or cut my emotional tie
and sell the car. I've owned this baby for 3 years and have put many
hours of labor (and a fair amount of money) into it. From stem to stern,
the new items that I have put in include the following: radiator,
radiator hoses, oil cooler, thermostat, fuel injectors, manual fuel hand
pump, transmission lines to cooler, alternator, brake lines, shocks,
front crank seal, all door vacuum valves as well as in the trunk and by the
fuel door, front seat cushions, tires, front windshield, headlights,
and climate control panel. When replacing the door vacuum valves, I
also Dyna-mat all the doors. Put in new speakers front and rear. New CD
player. And of course, Mobil1 throughout. 
The car runs great and has been very reliable, with 230K. The only
thing that does not work is the trip odometer which failed about 2
months ago. 
The AC manifold hose repair is beyond my capability, so I will really
need to shell out for this job. At this point the wife is asking how
much more money we will need to spend on the car and I really can't
answer her. I hate to say to her that this is really the last big-ticket
item, and then the next day something else comes up. If I decide to
sell, how much should I ask for, recongizing that it's worth a lot more
to me than the potential buyer.
Any words of wisdom from the list will be appreciated.
David
83 300 DT
230K 


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Re: [MBZ] Fix or Sell?

2007-09-06 Thread David Johnson
Loren,
  I agree.  Mathematically, you're right.  The Car Talk guys are also in this 
camp.
  One other thing that the wife brought up was how safe is the car compared to 
the new ones with airbags, and all the likes. 
  David

Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  If you bought a new car, what would the total of car payments, 
increased cost of insurance and so forth be? Compare that to the 
total you have spent for a similar period of time for the Benz. I 
   
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Re: [MBZ] Fix or Sell?

2007-09-06 Thread David Johnson
Ernest,
  A lot of the things that I replaced were the result of new owner excitement 
syndrome.  For example, I replaced the shocks and the seat cushions because I 
figured they must have been out with time. The only  problems that I 
encountered were leaking oil cooler,  faltering alt with the symptom of 
headlight dimming intermittently, leaking front crank seal, and malfunctioning 
climate control panel.  Since I was there taking the oil cooler out, I replaced 
the radiator, hoses, thermostats, and belts, one again figuring that the car is 
1983, and there ought to have been some wear and tear on these items.  
  The PO spent a lot of money on this car, too, with all the receipts, etc.  He 
did have a lousy indy for the last 3 years of his experience, though.  This guy 
replaced the front crank seal only 1 year before it started leaking again. 
  My indy sais the compressor is still good. Is there a way to prognosticate on 
compressor, dryer, etc?
  Davud
ernest breakfield [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  David,

consider what you could buy to replace it with; even though what 
you've got now isn't exactly a low-mileage example, certainly it would 
cost more to buy something else comparable than it will cost to repair 
what you have now, and there's no guarantee you wouldn't have the issues 
with the new one. (FWIW, i also just went through several hundred 
dollars worth of work on the AC in mine as a result of poor work done by 
a PO; AC is a life-support requirement for us where we live and travel, 
it's not 'optional'. although your repair estimate sounds high, also 
consider that if the AC needs repair and isn't attended to promptly, 
it's likely to have parts dry out and it will require more to properly 
repair the system than the vehicle could be sold for. because of these 
things, i, for one, wouldn't consider buying a vehicle without working AC.)
if the core of the vehicle is in good shape 
(body/chassis/driveline), if it were me, i'd stick with what you've 
got... although if you really *needed* to replace all the things you 
listed, i have to wonder how good a condition the vehicle was/is in. 
(things like shocks, tires, headlights and windshields can't be counted, 
as they're somewhat 'wear' items, and would be consumables that would 
eventually require replacement on any vehicle.)

   
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Re: [MBZ] Fix or Sell?

2007-09-06 Thread David Johnson
Sometimes 1 or 2 seconds.

Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  

David Johnson wrote:
 I'm just worried about fixing this and then something like a transmission 
 problem crops up.

When you shift from park to reverse, how long does it take before reverse
engages?

You
   
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Re: [MBZ] Fix or Sell?

2007-09-06 Thread David Johnson
Jim,
  I maybe wrong, but I recall the tag was like $21 per year, the lowest that I 
ever have to pay.
  CN

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
In a message dated 9/6/2007 8:11:46 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I'm in Arizona, so the AC is almost a necessity for most of the year. 
I really need to fix or sell the car, unfortunately.



David,

The price you got ($800 ) is fair considering you are replacing a hose unit 
that terminates under the dash on one end, and you are retaining R12, I hope. 
The AC system on an early Mercedes is marginal for really hot days (we 
just recorded 32 days over 110 degrees) so don' t let them sub any other 
refrigerant.
The dryer should not need replacing if the system has held residual pressure 
in it. 

Considering your tags are about $35, a 
   
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Re: [MBZ] Fix or Sell?

2007-09-06 Thread David Johnson
Robert,
  Thanks for your advice.
  I'll check with the local shop.  What kills me is the labotr to evacuate the 
R12 and to put the new hose on is listed as 3 hours by the book, plus 3 lbs of 
the R12.
  It's a slow leak, with drops of dye-colored fluid coming out right where the 
crimp fitting is. 
  David
  

Robert  Tara Ludwick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  If it's just leaking around the crimp, there's no reason that you 
couldn't get a new piece of rubber put on your assembly for $20-40 . 
About the only time that you can't is if the metal part is pitted ( not 
likely with the car being in that climate all it's life ) or if the 
previous repair involved welding new metal ends on ( it would be 
noticeable ), if not, with the assembly off, you could send the hose out 
for new rubber instead of a $300 new assembly. If you were closer, I'd 
say bring it by and I'll put a new chunk of rubber on it, but the 
shipping both ways would probably be more than taking it to a local hose 
shop and I'd be willing to bet there are a number of shops there that 
will fix that hose. If you look in the yellow pages under hoses, you 
should be able to find a hydraulic hose shop that also does AC hose.

If having a shop do it all, they should be willing to send the hose out, 
there;'s nothing wrong with old assemblies with new rubber.
If it's all leaked out already, you could yank the hose yourself and 
take it to a hose shop, then pop it back on along with a new drier , 
and then take it in to get vacuumed and recharged for a heck of a lot 
less than $800.

This is assuming that the leak is that fast. How long did it take to 
leak out and is it still R12 or has it been switched to R134a. If it's a 
very slow leak and it's still r12, you can go to http://www.epatest.com/ 
and take the test ( it's an open book test online, if you've got any 
smarts at all, you can pass it ) and you can then buy individual cans of 
R12 and top it off. If it's R134a and a slow leak, that ones a no 
brainer, you can get that at the local parts store and top it off.

If you sell it and buy a new car, you'll be begging for the days that 
you were only faced with an $800 repair bill. My Mother bought a new 
Toyota Camry that's still under warranty, and every time it goes in for 
scheduled service, it comes out with a bill for between $500-1500 for 
non covered items, and this is all on top of car payments. Newer cars 
rarely make it out of a shop for under a grand these days. We have a 
habit of getting rather spoiled with our old European cars and whining 
about what are basically cheap repairs by modern car standards.

I've got one lady with a '90 volvo who is facing about a $800 bill for a 
window regulator , timing belts and idlers, water pump and a few other 
regular maintenance items. He husband wants her to sell the thing and 
buy a new car because it's going to cost so much. Over the last 5 years 
she's averaged ( including the ones needed) about $600 a year upkeep to 
own that car ( that includes a seriously overpriced repair done by 
someone else before she found me ) She'll spend more than that on 2 
months payments and the difference in her insurance premium for a new 
car over that time if she goes that route, and that's before new car 
maintenance expense so they'll be in for a rude awakening .

Something to think about.

--Robert

David Johnson wrote:
 Robert,
 I don't know how long ago and how the hose was rebuilt.This was done 
 by the previous ownber.
 The leak is at the bottom, where the crimp fitting is. I saw drops of 
 fluid coming out, and it was confirmed with UV light. The labor for 
 this thing is 3 hours, plus the cost of the evacuation, and filling up 
 with 3 lbs of refrigerant.
 David

 */Robert  Tara Ludwick /* wrote:

 I think you should sell the thing to me for $50 :-)
 Seriously though, how long ago was the hose fixed before? Where
 exactly
 is it leaking now? the middle of the hose, at the crimp fittings?
 When
 
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Re: [MBZ] Fix or Sell?

2007-09-06 Thread David Johnson
Thanks, Jim.
  Good write-up and kind of humorous, too, 

Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   I've never worked on AC before so I'm kind of chicken about it.

No time like the present. It's amazing what a no-fear attitude
and some thought can lead you through.

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/cwair.html

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Fix or Sell?

2007-09-06 Thread David Johnson
Jim,
  You're right.  
  David

Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   considering you are replacing a hose unit
 that terminates under the dash on one end,

I didn't think that this hose actually went that far.
   
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Re: [MBZ] Fix or Sell?

2007-09-06 Thread David Johnson
Wish I had a 124. Mine is a 123.
  The wife just threw out the Honda brand more or less because of repair 
fatigue, rather than an affinity to a particular brand. We did have an Acura 
that was problem free for 10 years, until one of the heads cracked.
  
Hendrik [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  The 124 is one of the safest chassis in it's time and was voted the 
worlds best car. It could be argued that it still is the worlds best, if 
you take running costs into account.
But if you want a Japanese car, then buy a Japanese car.

David 
   
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[MBZ] Fix or Sell?

2007-09-05 Thread David Johnson
The AC manifold hose in my 83 300 DT is leaking.  It was rebuilt once before, 
so my trusted indy recommended a replacement if I want to fix it.  The total 
bill will be in the neighborhood of $800-900, with parts from Rusty.  
  I don't know if I should proceed this route or cut my emotional tie and sell 
the car.  I've owned this baby for 3 years and have put many hours of labor 
(and a fair amount of money) into it. From stem to stern, the new items that I 
have put in include the following: radiator, radiator hoses, oil cooler, 
thermostat, fuel injectors, manual fuel hand pump,  transmission lines to 
cooler, alternator, brake lines, shocks, front crank seal, all door vacuum 
valves as well as in the trunk and by the fuel door, front seat cushions, 
tires, front windshield, headlights, and climate control panel.  When replacing 
the door vacuum valves, I also Dyna-mat all the doors. Put in new speakers 
front and rear. New CD player. And of course, Mobil1 throughout. 
  The car runs great and has been very reliable, with 230K.  The only thing 
that does not work is the trip odometer which failed about 2 months ago. 
  The AC manifold hose repair is beyond my capability, so I will really need to 
shell out for this job.  At this point the wife is asking how much more money 
we will need to spend on the car and I really can't answer her.  I hate to say 
to her that this is really the last big-ticket item, and then the next day 
something else comes up.  If I decide to sell, how much should I ask for, 
recongizing that it's worth a lot more to me than the potential buyer.
  Any words of wisdom from the list will be appreciated.
  David
  83 300 DT
  230K 

   
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Re: [MBZ] Sucking oil

2007-05-14 Thread David Johnson
Wilotn,
  How do you suck it from top only? I assume you need to have some sort of 
really good airtight connection to dipstick tube and connect it to a pump?
  I've been using Topsider for a few years, and lately been thinking of getting 
an active pump.  Any suggestion?
  David

wilton strickland [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Chris, have you tried sucking your oil from TOP ONLY of dipstick tube?

   
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It seems than at Sun, 13 May 2007 17:29:43 -0400, Gary wrote:

 i hear some clicking in there.  guess it pays to have a real surge
 protector, huh?

If you want _real_ transient voltage protection, do what the
pros do - buy a SurgeX.

However, the real advantage in using a SurgeX is in situations
where you have equipment that plugged into different outlets,
but tied together with low-voltage audio, video, or control
lines.

--Philip, using a home-brew 'cause a SurgeX cost money



Re: [MBZ] Sucking oil

2007-05-14 Thread David Johnson
Wilton,
  If it's not too much troruble, I''d like to learn how you did this.
  Many thanks to all the replies.
  David

wilton strickland [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I'll send complete
instructions for building and using $2 sucker if you want - it's all very
easy.



 
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Subject: [MBZ] Leaky evaporators (was New and Improved Tell me why I
shouldn't buy this car)
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On 5/14/07, Gary Thompson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 3) leaky evaporators. Make sure air blows cold, and hope that seller
 hasn't just topped off the system to mask any issues. If car has been
 closed up on a hot day, you can often smell the oily leakage from the
 evaoprator when you first open the door and turn on the A/C. Very
 expensive to fix, and a very difficult DIY.

What does it smell like, exactly?  Different from other oily smells
(e.g. from engine oil dripping on a hot exhaust manifold)?

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper
'86 Lincoln Mark VII LSC



Re: [MBZ] Proof it still has some life left??

2007-05-04 Thread David Johnson
   still goes fast enough to get a ticket (of course it was in town and the 
limit was only 60 KPH or about 40 MPH -
 they have me at 74 KPH or about 47 MPH - 
   
   
  This is tough.  In Az, you can get by as long as you're 10mph under the limit.
  David

 
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Date: Fri, 4 May 2007 17:06:58 -0600
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On Fri, 04 May 2007 22:50:29 + [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
 Do'h. JPG is in caps. autospellcheck musta case-changed it on me. well a
 little ln action fixes that!
 
  -- Original message --
 From: Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Fri, 04 May 2007 20:52:05 + [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
   (The photos are at http://ns1.2tough.com/~jreames/P4290003.jpg and
   http://ns1.2tough.com/~jreames/P4290004.jpg )

Yup, the ln action fixed it. BTW, what's ln action?

And what kind of Benz is it?


Craig



[MBZ] O rings attached to the shaft of the oil canister cover

2007-01-20 Thread David Johnson
Does anyone know the part numbers for the two little O rings that are attached 
to the shaft of the oil canister cover?  I want to order a couple of them, but 
can't find them on Rusty's website.
  Thanks.
  David
  83 300DT 

 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT recumbant side-by-side was Re: The big test
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I can't even imagine one of those 40 long dog crates on the back of a 
motorcycle!  Did you mount it perpendicular to the fender running lengthwise 
across the back of the bike??  Also, how were you abel to help the dog in 
there without throwing the bike over?

Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD Turbo Diesel, 266K miles, Ursula 




[MBZ] OT: BMW mechanics

2006-08-09 Thread David Johnson
My son's recently inherited an old Beamer.  Does any one have a recommendation 
for a BMW shop in the Phoenix-Scottsdale area?
  TIA.



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Subject: [MBZ] Front end work on a 240D
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Is $400 too much to pay to have the lower right front ball joint and
all tie rod ends installed and an alignment? Seems steep to me, but
then again, I don't want to get out in the 100+ heat and do it myself.

-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] Front crank seal

2006-03-12 Thread David Johnson
Thanks, Robert.
I looked at the site and saw strong testimonials
posted.
Do we know how this works?  
David 

--- Robert  Tara Ludwick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 If you have some minor leakage, try running a couple
 of treatments of 
 AutoRx ( www.auto-rx.com  )

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[MBZ] Front crank seal

2006-03-11 Thread David Johnson
What is the implication of front crank seal leak? I
have a couple of drops coming out of the seal each
day.  Other than the unsightly polka dots on my
cement, should I be concerned about any complications
to the engine as a result of this leak?
From what I've read, this is a rather big job, and I
don't have the capability/tools to change the seal. I
suppose the leak will worsen with time, and I'll need
to get it fixed at some point in time. At that
juncture, resources permitting, is there anything else
I should take care of for this 83 300DT with 220 K
miles?
Thanks.
David

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Re: [MBZ] Optima 34 Red Top?/Lights left on Buzzer

2006-03-04 Thread David Johnson
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 No buzzer when key left in lock, or lights left on,
 usually means the time  
 delay  that turns the front interior light on and
 off has also  failed.  To 
 confirm, does the front interior light come on when
 the  driver's door is opened? 
  And it should stay on after the driver's door is 
 closed for a preset time 
 delay.
Hi Jim,
The fron interior light does come on when doors are
opened, and will turn itself off after 10 sec.
David

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[MBZ] Optima 34 Red Top?

2006-03-03 Thread David Johnson
Dear Listers,
I forgot to turn off the headlights today for 4 hours,
and my Interstate is dead.
Is Optima 34 Red top the right choice for my 83 300DT?
Or is it the 34R or some other new option?
Thanks.
David



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Re: [MBZ] Optima 34 Red Top?

2006-03-03 Thread David Johnson
Jim,
There's no buzzer here.  The only time I heard a
buzzer was for the seatbelt, and that one came on only
once during the last 2 years. 
How would I intstall the buzzer for the headlight? 
Any part number for Rusty?
Thanks.
David
83 300DT.

--- Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Does your buzzer not work?  My wife relies heavily
 upon ours.
 Putting one into the SL (

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Re: [MBZ] Optima 34 Red Top?

2006-03-03 Thread David Johnson


--- Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Don't you have a key-in buzzer?

Nope.  A very silent car. all around!


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Re: [MBZ] Optima 34 Red Top?

2006-03-03 Thread David Johnson
--- Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Does your door have one switch in the frame, or two?
Only one that I can see.
David

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[MBZ] Mechanics Competency Was Oil Change Question

2006-02-24 Thread David Johnson
Sadly, I have to agree with the comments that if we
want to make sure the job done right, we have to do it
ourselves. I've seen this with American, Japanese, and
now German shops. Not to mention home inspectors,
plumbers, pool service.  
Since owning this car, I've learned to change
radiator, alternator, monovalve, vacuum elements,
headlights, and it's kind of fun.  Wish I could
observe one you guys like Dave M for bigger jobs. 
Am still pissed at the 2 places that robbed me on the
transmission change.
david 

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Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions

2006-02-23 Thread David Johnson
--- Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 The quantity of ATF for a 722.4 transmission if you
 drain the converter 
 is 6 liters (6.35 qt).
Not having access to trustworthy jack stands and
having never seen an engine turned manually, I'm
trying to talk myself into changing the ATF without
draining the converter.  Would that be a bad thing?  
David
83 300DT

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[MBZ] Valve clearance

2006-02-08 Thread David Johnson
How often should I check the valve clearance and the
timing chain(?) tension in a 123?  What are the specs
on these parameters?
Thanks.
David
83 300 DT
230,000

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Re: [MBZ] Valve clearance

2006-02-08 Thread David Johnson
Thanks so much, Marshall. As usual, you're the
Encyclopedia for the list.
This will be my first valve job, and I'm glad that you
mentioned that the engine needs to be cold.  I surely
didn't know about this requirement. Since I'm planning
to do this myself, that shouldn't be a problem. 
I wonder, though, how the dealership/Indie gets around
this issue. A car will be instantly out of specs the
next morning when the engine cools down and all the
metals contract.
David
--- Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Valves need to be checked every 15kmi (I checked
 them every fall, before 
 really cold weather). They need to be checked COLD
 (engine not run for 
 6-8 hours) 

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Re: [MBZ] AC Dead

2005-08-15 Thread David Johnson
Peter,
Where's the separate circuit?
I only knew about fuse #8.
David

--- Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Replace the blower fuse -- it's a separate circuit.
 
 Peter





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[MBZ] AC Dead

2005-08-14 Thread David Johnson
The AC in my car is completely dead this morning.I
changed the fuse to no avail.  The push button control
was replaced about 2 months. 
I suspect it's the blower because there's no air
movement at all.  
The AC had been working fine before I lent the car to
a buddy.  I'm sure it's just a coincidence, but I know
this guy, not accustomed to the Arizona climate,
always runs the AC on my car at high speed.
Any suggestion?
Thanks.
David
83 300DT

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Re: [MBZ] Theory vs Practice

2005-06-29 Thread David Johnson
--- kevin kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 My experience is that my cars tend to run better
 when they're driven hard. 
What does running hard like this mean to the
transmission?  Would that wear down the transmission
faster?  If that's the case, I'd rather run the engine
at lower efficiency than having to shell out 2K for a
new trannny.
David 
83 300DT



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Re: [MBZ] Theory vs Practice

2005-06-29 Thread David Johnson
--- kevin kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 pushed harder, but driving at low RPM builds up
 carbon which can kill an 
 engine over time.  
I thought Diesel Purge could clear up the carbon
buildup? 
David



 
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