Re: [MBZ] 240D engine is REALLY *LOUD*..

[Kevin J. Slater]

No. It idles about the same as it always has. It runs a little rough at 
startup, but that could be a number of things. Smooths out pretty quickly.

...Kevin

On Thu, 10 Jan 2008, Kaleb C. Striplin, work wrote:

> #1 piston probably has a problem.  Does it idle rough too?
> 
> ---
> Kaleb C. Striplin
> Cox Auto Trader
> 730-Tulsa FSBO Supervisor
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Kevin J. Slater" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 1:43 PM
> Subject: [MBZ] 240D engine is REALLY *LOUD*..
> 
> 
> > My son sent me an instant message yesterday saying the 240D was trailing
> > some blue smoke and smelled like it was burning oil.
> >
> > When I got home last night I started it up and popped the hood. Engine is
> > running a lot louder than it had been. It was night, so it's hard to be
> > definitive but it did seem to be spewing a little more smoke than normal
> > and it did smell of burning oil. The oil level (I checked it before I
> > started after the car sat on the flat for 7 hours) was down a bit from
> > where it was when I brought the level back up a few days back. We checked
> > under the air filter and there wasn't much oil sitting there, so I don't
> > think that's the culprit. I did notice pretty significant blow-by when I
> > pulled the oil fill cap while the engine was running at fast idle.
> >
> > So I have more smoke, some oil smell in the exhaust, lower oil level on
> > the dipstick, more noise - almost like a loud rap, and lots of cam oil
> > pressure. Any thoughts? Could it be as simple as a valve nut that wasn't
> > tightened up enough and now has moved? The sound I'm hearing seems to be
> > coming from a single piston - that is, it's regular but I don't think it
> > happens every time a piston fires.
> >
> > ...Kevin (who'll be checking valve clearances tonight)
> >
> >
> > ___
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> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
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> 
> 
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[MBZ] 240D engine is REALLY *LOUD*..

[Kevin J. Slater]

My son sent me an instant message yesterday saying the 240D was trailing 
some blue smoke and smelled like it was burning oil.

When I got home last night I started it up and popped the hood. Engine is 
running a lot louder than it had been. It was night, so it's hard to be 
definitive but it did seem to be spewing a little more smoke than normal 
and it did smell of burning oil. The oil level (I checked it before I 
started after the car sat on the flat for 7 hours) was down a bit from 
where it was when I brought the level back up a few days back. We checked 
under the air filter and there wasn't much oil sitting there, so I don't 
think that's the culprit. I did notice pretty significant blow-by when I 
pulled the oil fill cap while the engine was running at fast idle.

So I have more smoke, some oil smell in the exhaust, lower oil level on 
the dipstick, more noise - almost like a loud rap, and lots of cam oil 
pressure. Any thoughts? Could it be as simple as a valve nut that wasn't 
tightened up enough and now has moved? The sound I'm hearing seems to be 
coming from a single piston - that is, it's regular but I don't think it 
happens every time a piston fires.

...Kevin (who'll be checking valve clearances tonight)


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[MBZ] W115 240D 4 Speed for sale in SouthWest PA

[Kevin J. Slater]

My wife spotted this car in a lot near Cranberry Township, PA. I went by
and had a look. The car is in pretty good shape. There is a small amount
of bubbling beneath the paint at the back of each wheel well. Paint is
very nice overall, chrome is shiny and not pitted. 4 speed manual
transmission. I didn't catch the mileage (forgot to look if you can
believe it), but I do have a phone number should anyone be interested.

And since I'm just down the road I'll even volunteer to check it out
further if anyone wants me to.

...Kevin

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[MBZ] WIS part # lookup?

[Kevin J. Slater]

I need part numbers for some obscure items on my 1987 300TD:

1) The (plastic?) bushings that go where the gear selection pushrod
connects to the transmission or the bottom of the gearshift lever

2) The boot that covers the bottom of the gearshift lever (under the gear
selection gate in the center console)

If anyone has this and could look them up, it would sure help me out.

...Kevin
79 240D - 179k mi
87 300TD - 287k mi

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Re: [MBZ] Question for list about 300TD fixer

[Kevin J. Slater]

87's? Or are we talking W123's?

Kaleb C. Striplin said:
> Yea, it would have been worth 5-600, its WAY too much right now
> considering a guy has 2 of them he wants me to buy, $2500 for one and
> $3500 for the other.  Both run and drive fine, one has a new head
>
> Allan Streib wrote:
>> It's up to almost $1,300.  I was thinking if I could get it for $500
>> it might have be worth sorting out all the problems, but it was past
>> that price days ago.
>>
>> Allan
>
> --
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>   92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL,
>   89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
>   81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
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[MBZ] 79 240D A/C - where to start?

[Kevin J. Slater]

Our 240D has inoperable A/C (manual controls though). We did a quick check
by starting the car and turning the A/C dial to high. Compressor didn't
even attempt to kick in. Aux fan didn't start running either, but it does
spin easily.

Can someone give me a quick list of things to check to get started in
diagnosing this?

...Kevin
1979 240D 161k mi
1987 300TD 262k mi (in the shop getting inspected)

Re: [MBZ] Now, a liar on craigslist....

[Kevin J. Slater]

Gump is a 220D, right? We can't seem to break out of the 22 - 24 mpg range
with out '79 240D. The driving isn't highway, more like secondary 2 lane
roads with a 45 - 55 mph range for the limit.

What do you get when you drive it around town?

...Kevin


Redghost said:
> Gump uses excess gravity, astoglide, and a tail wind.  She is able to
> get up to 31mpg.  Not every day, but at speed for hours on end.
>
> On May 21, 2007, at 6:19 PM, Gary Hurst wrote:
>
>> i'm amazed by how many of these OM61x cars are advertised as
>> getting 40+mpg
>> per gallon.  i've owned a number for them and have always been
>> between 20
>> and 25mpg.  maybe they are harnessing the power of magnetism or
>> something
>> like that?
>>
>> On 5/21/07, Tony Wirtel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>>
>>> 300SD: "Rare Gas Saver" that gets 45 MPG- don't miss the interior
>>> shots...
>>>
>>> http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/car/330303412.html
>>>
>>> Same guy jerked my chain on my former 300sd.
>>>
>>> Tony Wirtel
>
> --
> Clay
> Seattle Bioburner
>
> 1972 220D - Gump
> 1995 E300D - Cleo
> 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
> The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] 124 wagons by the score

[Kevin J. Slater]

Curt,

isn't beantown your stomping ground? I know there is at least a couple of
listers up that way. Someone want to have a look and see what the real
scoop is?

...Kevin

Curt Raymond said:
> http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/car/331061885.html
> Something fishy about this, but I'd be interested to know the real scoop.
>
> -Curt

[MBZ] 79 240D blowing #1 fuse?

[Kevin J. Slater]

One of my other (non-mb) fleet vehicles conked out and thus I had an
opportunity to drive the 240D again. I noticed that the glowplug light on
the dash came on a few times during a short drive. Later that evening when
headlights were required I noticed that the instrument panel lights were
out. Sure enough the #1 fuse blew. This happened a few weeks back to my
son. I didn't think anything about it at the time. When I went to replace
the fuse, I noticed a white-ish coating on some of the copper supports for
the end of the fuses which to me said there was some arcing going on under
the fuse cover. I looked at the wiring for the glowplugs and I didn't see
anything that looked like it might have shorted.

Anyone have a clue what I should be looking for? I'm pretty sure that the
glowplug light coming on and the fuse blowing are related, but I'm
clueless as to how.

...Kevin
79 240D 160k miles

Re: [MBZ] OT: Mom's 87 300E hard starting puzzler..

[Kevin J. Slater]

Mathieu,

you nailed the problem. I pulled the OVP and it fell apart in my hands. My
brother ordered a new one from Rusty and shipped it to my house. Dropped
in the new one and it fixed the problem completely.

...Kevin

Mathieu J.Cama said:
> Kevin,
>
> Things to check:
>
> Check the fuse on the top of the OVP relay. It is a 10 amp ATC fuse.
> This can cause hard starting when cold and explain the ABS light. It is
> a silver "box" relay, located near the battery with a fuse (red) on the
> top of it, iirc on a w124. Sometimes, the OVP will still have its clear
> plastic cover on the top.
>
> Temp sensor for the fuel injection.
>
>   Ignition rotor and distributor cap, but this would cause poor running
> at all temps if things were really bad.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Mathieu
>
>
>
> On Apr 9, 2007, at 3:43 PM, Kevin J. Slater wrote:
>
>> I have a plea for the list. I'm trying to keep my Mom's 87 300E on the
>> road and I only get word when things are bad. Recently she called to
>> tell
>> me that one day she went to start the car (was probably about 50 F that
>> day) and it would turn over easily but it wouldn't catch and run. She
>> stated that the day before all was fine and dandy. She managed to get
>> it
>> started and came down to my house. She was there for several hours and
>> we
>> went out to start it in my driveway.
>>
>> When you could get it to catch and run it ran very rough unless you
>> took
>> the tach up to about 1800 - 2000 rpms where upon it would smooth out.
>> If
>> you dropped it down into the 1000 rpm range, if you could keep it from
>> stalling, it bucked and I could intermittently hear something  like a
>> backfiring sound through the air cleaner (I was standing outside the
>> car).
>> If you kept the engine in that higher rpm range for about 5 minutes
>> until
>> the coolant temp came up to about 60 C, then it would run pretty much
>> normally at all rpm ranges. Once warmed up there was no loss of power
>> or
>> misfiring that I could detect.
>>
>> I checked the air filter and it seemed normal enough. Not sure what to
>> check next. She did mention that her ABS light has come on now and
>> doesn't
>> go off. I could be connected or just a weird coincidence. She added
>> fuel
>> injector cleaner prior to coming down to my house (about 35 miles of
>> highway). I thought about changing out the fuel filter, but that
>> doesn't
>> make sense in light of the improvement in running once warmed up.
>>
>> I would appreciate any ideas. The rest of the family is anxious to get
>> her
>> into some other car which she won't be able to afford and no doubt will
>> turn out to be a death trap tin can.
>>
>> ...Kevin
>> 79 240D
>> 87 300TD
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
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>>
>


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Mom's 87 300E hard starting puzzler..

[Kevin J. Slater]

Mathieu,

thanks for the pointers. I'm thinking you're correct in looking at the
sensors. Makes sense from the perspective of something failing overnight
(so to speak) and fits in with the symptoms going away after the engine
has warmed up.

You mentioned the temperature sensor for the fuel injection. I can't seem
to find that specifically on Rusty's site although there are a few temp
sensors listed for this car. Any chance you could be more specific or give
me a pointer to find the correct one?

Rusty / Hursty?

...Kevin

Mathieu J.Cama said:
> Kevin,
>
> Things to check:
>
> Check the fuse on the top of the OVP relay. It is a 10 amp ATC fuse.
> This can cause hard starting when cold and explain the ABS light. It is
> a silver "box" relay, located near the battery with a fuse (red) on the
> top of it, iirc on a w124. Sometimes, the OVP will still have its clear
> plastic cover on the top.
>
> Temp sensor for the fuel injection.
>

Re: [MBZ] OT: Mom's 87 300E hard starting puzzler..

[Kevin J. Slater]

Don,

since the car will fire up and run given proper pedal input and cranking
time, I'm leaning more towards a sensor. Even once it does start it takes
a good couple of minutes about 1800 rpm (or else it will sputter and die)
to warm up to the point where you can let the engine drop back towards
idle. What you're describing would seem to point more at the starting
difficulty, but we seem to have something more along the lines of timing
or fuel management issues during start and for a while once running. The
fact that it works after warming up might also point in the direction of a
sensor - flaky when cold, but works better when warm.

OK Don said:
> I'd check the cold start injector (when cold) to see that it is indeed
> squirting fuel. You remove it from the manifold, re-connect the fuel
> line and wire - hold it over a jar or something to collect the fuel
> (should it be working) - and have Mom crank the engine as if starting
> it. If fuel is coming out - that's not the problem.
> I'm writing all this on the blind assumption that the '87 CIS is very
> simliar to my '78 CIS injection system - YMMV.
>
>
> --
> OK Don, KD5NRO
> Norman, OK
> "Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
> sit there."
> Will Rogers
> '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
>
> ___
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[MBZ] OT: Mom's 87 300E hard starting puzzler..

[Kevin J. Slater]

I have a plea for the list. I'm trying to keep my Mom's 87 300E on the
road and I only get word when things are bad. Recently she called to tell
me that one day she went to start the car (was probably about 50 F that
day) and it would turn over easily but it wouldn't catch and run. She
stated that the day before all was fine and dandy. She managed to get it
started and came down to my house. She was there for several hours and we
went out to start it in my driveway.

When you could get it to catch and run it ran very rough unless you took
the tach up to about 1800 - 2000 rpms where upon it would smooth out. If
you dropped it down into the 1000 rpm range, if you could keep it from
stalling, it bucked and I could intermittently hear something  like a
backfiring sound through the air cleaner (I was standing outside the car).
If you kept the engine in that higher rpm range for about 5 minutes until
the coolant temp came up to about 60 C, then it would run pretty much
normally at all rpm ranges. Once warmed up there was no loss of power or
misfiring that I could detect.

I checked the air filter and it seemed normal enough. Not sure what to
check next. She did mention that her ABS light has come on now and doesn't
go off. I could be connected or just a weird coincidence. She added fuel
injector cleaner prior to coming down to my house (about 35 miles of
highway). I thought about changing out the fuel filter, but that doesn't
make sense in light of the improvement in running once warmed up.

I would appreciate any ideas. The rest of the family is anxious to get her
into some other car which she won't be able to afford and no doubt will
turn out to be a death trap tin can.

...Kevin
79 240D
87 300TD

Re: [MBZ] Key / Starter / Starting woes 79 240D

[Kevin J. Slater]

Thanks guys! I need to get this problem behind me so I can patch up the
other ailing members of the Slater fleet.

...Kevin

OK Don said:
> It sounds like the problem, if it's not the solenoid, is the switch
> unit - that screws onto the back of the tumbler assembly. It's not
> that expensive nor that hard to replace.
>
> On 2/8/07, Russ Williams <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> He can get them again.
>> Copy of Drivers Lic, and Registration is required.
>> 90 bucks for Tumbler and Key for a 85 300D.
>>
>> Russ W.

[MBZ] Key / Starter / Starting woes 79 240D

[Kevin J. Slater]

Hopefully I can convey what I need to in a coherent manner such that I can
get some advice on a set of interdepedent, related issues with our 240D.

We bought the car used and got 1 regular key and 1 valet key. We have
since managed to misplace the regular key leaving us with only the valet
key. The keyswitch is a bit dicey and requires a touch to operate at times
- I know from past reading that this needs to addressed sooner rather than
later.

At times the ignition switch stays in the 'energize starter' position. The
solenoid seems to let go but you can hear the starter still spinning. (I
saw my son completely remove the key this morning and the starter was
still spinning.) At other times eventhough the key is in the 'energize
starter' position the starter will kick out like you released the key.
Obviously, in cold start situations in low temps this is not a good thing.

So it would seem I need a new ignition keyswitch. But I also have the need
for some new keys and I'd like to keep a single key for everything
(ignition, doors, trunk, glove box). What are my options?

...Kevin
87 300TD
79 240D

Re: [MBZ] Gutter moulding removal

[Kevin J. Slater]

I'd like the know the same thing. There are some screws on our W123, but I
don't think these are the only thing holding it in place.

Peter Merle said:
> How does the chrome gutter moulding come off on the W123's? I need to
> take it off due to the rust raising its ugly head there!
> Peter
>
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Re: [MBZ] local benz for sale

[Kevin J. Slater]

Sunil Hari said:
> Local guy selling a 1984 300D- says it has a tranny issue and a coked
> injector.  If I buy it and part it out, who needs what?
>

If the interior is brown (not sure the official name) we could use the
front passenger side upper seat cover and the cover for the arm rest.

...Kevin

[MBZ] spin on filter interchangable from 87 300TD to 79 240D?

[Kevin J. Slater]

I have a need to replace the spin-on fuel filter in the 240D. I have one
on hand that I must've ordered for my 87 300TD. Can anyone tell me if
their interchangable between the 2 motors?

...Kevin

Re: [MBZ] 124 floor heat

[Kevin J. Slater]

I need to do the same in my 87 300TD. Wondering if I can R&R like Peter
described (I've had the replacement pods for a long time) or whether I'm
going to have to do something more difficult to get the failed one(s) out.

...Kevin

p.s. Kaleb - do you have a W123 heater blower motor you'd sell?

Aaron Lam said:
> Ralph,
>
> Fortunately these pods are among the easier ones to replace. Early
> 87's have two pods (a bit of a PITA to R&R because of the pressed on
> lock washers) and early models have a single pod which unclips easily.
> They're accessible after removing the climate control unit.
>
> -Aaron
> 1987 300D
>
> On 1/16/07, Ralph W <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> Can anyone give me an idea where the floor heat vacuum pod lives under
>> the dash of a 124? I've got heat out the side vents and defroster but
>> nothing going to the floor. I'm assuming that the pod for the heat flaps
>> to the floor is bad. Can I get to this without removing the dash. I've
>> fixed a 123 from the side panels. Is the 124 set up the same way? It's
>> too darn cold to drive without floor heat. A hot torso and frostbit legs
>> just doesn't get it.
>
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[MBZ] replacing the heater fan in a 1979 240D?

[Kevin J. Slater]

Seems like I've seen this discussed a time or two. How difficult to get to
the fan unit and can it be repaired? (Rusty cost on a new unit seems to be
$225.)

Caleb - have any used units you'd part with for a reasonable fee?

...Kevin
79 240D
87 300TD

[MBZ] Injection pump oil leak

[Kevin J. Slater]

I seem to have a leak somewhere around the injection pump on my 87 300TD.
The car is on my ramps in the garage so I cleaned up the area and I THINK
it may be leaking from the shaft of the shutoff arm on the injection pump
manual shutoff valve. Is this possible? Or likely? And more important is
it repairable?

...Kevin
87 300TD
79 240D

[MBZ] 79 240D 'knocking / pinging'

[Kevin J. Slater]

Noticed when I drove the 240D the other day a distinct pinging / knocking
sound. (That's what it would be if this were a gasser, which it isn't.)
Not sure what it might be. I noticed some odd fluctuations in the oil
pressure (floating up and down at idle) and so I took out the 15w-50 dino
and put in 15w-50 Mobil 1 - that cured the oil pressure issue.

The car is mostly used by my son to go back and forth the school on a 2
lane road about 7 miles each way (max speed 55 mph, average probably 35
mph). Car has about 162k miles on the clock, but I wouldn't swear by that
number since the PO wasn't the most diligent with maintenance.

Any opinions on the noise? It's not there at idle or under very light
acceleration. If you put your foot in it it's there until the engine revs
go up near the top of the range. (Maybe still there and masked by other
engine noise?)

...Kevin

Re: [MBZ] parking/driving/fog lights

[Kevin J. Slater]

Yes, this would also explain the Army's experiments with fitting a row of
bright lights on top of desert tanks to make them "more visible" to the
enemy..

...Kevin


ernest breakfield said:
> while traveling in the Deserts, it's clear that vehicles with headlights
> on are
> much more visible even/especially on the brightest of days. it's a
> recommended
> practice at many parks in the Deserts.
>
>
> cheers!
> e
>
>
> Levi Smith wrote:
>
>> However, if the sun is
>> out and the day is quite clear and I'm on a divided highway I don't have
>> much doubt that the headlights aren't going to make much difference.
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] parking/driving/fog lights

[Kevin J. Slater]

No conspiracy; it was just the typical misunderstood statistical study.
The original only attempted to determine the efficacy of DRL at dusk,
which in the Nordic countries happens for a greater proportion of the day
than it does here far below the artic circle, and probably a fair bit more
than the more populous areas of Canada.

Of course our wonderful politicians, particularly those who view the
populace as a set of problems that need to be managed, were quick to
require them by law so that they can send letters to all of their
constituents explaining how they're making their lives better and safer.

YMMV.

...Kevin

Jeff Zedic said:
> We have had the DRLs here in Canada since 1994. The reasoning at the time
> was a satudy doe in Sweden that showed a 50% or higher drop in the chance
> of
> being in a collision with your headlights on.
>
> This wasn't some conspiracy with the bulb manufacturers
>
>
> Jeff Zedic
> Toronto
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>


-- 
"Thank God for Microsoft" -- Linus Torvalds

[MBZ] 240D water leak suspect?

[Kevin J. Slater]

Our 79 240D when parked up hill in the driveway and during a pretty heavy
or medium heavy but constant rain will get some water inside. Some trace
of the leak shows up on the hood release lever.

There is a chunk of gasket that's missing from under the window frame rail
that runs along the the a-pillar on the drivers side. (Forward of the
driver's door window frame if that makes better sense.) Is this rail
removable? Is it reinstallable if you remove it? And is there a gasket for
that location?

...Kevin
79 240D 157k mi (and getting frost on the interior rear window)
87 300TD 282k mi (sitting in the garage waiting for the mechanic)

[MBZ] Next issue to sort out on rescued 79 240D

[Kevin J. Slater]

So I was driving the 240D the other night and needed to turn on the
defroster (it has manual controls) and I detected the sweet smell of
coolant. I can't recall, but I seem to remember that the heater core for
W123's is in a bad place, a place that's really hard to get to. The
coolant level hasn't plummeted since we've been driving the car so I'm
guessing the leak is small / minor.

So the question is, what to do? Do I try a stop leak product? If so, which
one is likely to give the best results? (Knowing that no stop leak product
is the best choice.) Or is the R&R not as bad as I've been lead to
believe?

...Kevin
87 300TD 282k mi
79 240D 157k mi

Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plug conversion

[Kevin J. Slater]

Jim Cathey said:
>> Thanks for the advice. I have a friend making me some suitable plug to
>> plug cables since I don't have a good crimp tool. The plugs are on the
>> way
>> from Rusty. I still may attempt to use 4 of the 5 spots on my 300D glow
>> plug relay at some point in the future, but there would be that issue
>> of
>> it not seeing what it wants from the missing glow plug which would
>> probably cause the glow plug light on the dash to do funny things..
>
> Eh?  You're not planning to use that relay and wire the whole string to
> only one pin?  That won't work, those pins aren't rated for the full
> current.  Individually, that is.  And yes, the light won't work right.
> Changing it to a four-banger also would not be easy, as the current
> sensing
> works via balanced windings working against a reed switch.  You'd have
> to
> rewind the heavy wire coil around there to compensate, and I'm not sure
> you can do this without ruining it.  If you open the relay all should
> become clear with a bit of studying.  (Though come to think of it the
> 5-cylinder version has a weird 'bolt-on' arrangement for handling #5,
> so maybe it could be converted after all.  More study would be req'd.)
>

Did the glowplug conversion with the new pencil style parallel plugs on
Saturday. As expected it made a huge difference for starting the car.

The friend who made up the wires for me and I got to talking as he's
pretty savvy electrically. I was explaining my curiousity about using the
5 cylinder glowplug relay and timer and he suggested a novel idea.

His thought  on how to connect it was to just take the 5th wire and
connect it to one of the other 4 plugs so that one plug would have 2 wires
going to it. This way the comparison circuit would be fooled into seeing
the same value on all 5 lines. I asked about the downside to having 2
wires to one plug (I was concerned about it wearing out faster) and he
reminded me that the current flow is controlled by the resistor in the
circuit, not by the amount of wire or gauge supplying it. Thoughts?

...Kevin
87 300TD 282k mi
79 240D 157k mi

Re: [MBZ] Missing lister #2, where's Spud?

[Kevin J. Slater]

As Mitch said: Dave's alive and well. He keeps some of us 87 300TD owners
up to date on topics that he feels will interest us. I think the signal to
noise ratio on this list just got too high for his particular interests.

And we have new guys, like the indomitable Mr. Cathey, pitching in and
helping us low cost guys out with great research and advice..

...Kevin

Mitch Haley said:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>>
>> First Marshall and now Spud, is someone, or something, taking our good
>> people away?  Has anyone heard from Dave Meimann?
>
> Stick this in your MBZ address book, I'm sure he'd like to
> hear from you. "Dave M." 
>
> Dave left first, I think he quit last winter. He seems to spend his time
> on
> the 500E forums and mersuforum.net. He's still alive, I've exchanged
> emails
> with him this week. BTW, if anybody wants instructions for registering at
> mersuforum (Finnish forum, has an english topic mainly devoted to diesel
> hot rods) I posted instructions at buymbparts after I figured it out.
> It's not easy filling out a registration form in Finnish without
> instructions.
> http://buymbparts.com/forum/showthread.php?t=626
>
> Mitch.
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>


-- 
"Thank God for Microsoft" -- Linus Torvalds

Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plug conversion

[Kevin J. Slater]

Jim Cathey said:
> Eh?  You're not planning to use that relay and wire the whole string to
> only one pin?  That won't work, those pins aren't rated for the full
> current.  Individually, that is.  And yes, the light won't work right.
> Changing it to a four-banger also would not be easy, as the current
> sensing
> works via balanced windings working against a reed switch.  You'd have
> to
> rewind the heavy wire coil around there to compensate, and I'm not sure
> you can do this without ruining it.  If you open the relay all should
> become clear with a bit of studying.  (Though come to think of it the
> 5-cylinder version has a weird 'bolt-on' arrangement for handling #5,
> so maybe it could be converted after all.  More study would be req'd.)
>
> We all are assuming you will continue to use the existing, very heavy
> single-contact relay you have.  That will work just fine, it just
> doesn't
> have the plug-out detection logic.  (They all have to be out for it to
> complain, it was designed for a series string.)

Thanks for the clarification; that's why I ask these sort of questions on
the list! I

'll go with the original (series) relay and wire it up as suggested, which
although it won't detect plug out scenarios as well, will work for now.

I did expect to have to do some rework on the 300D relay to be able to use
it.

...Kevin

[MBZ] How about an engine-swap-a-thon at the RustyQ?

[Kevin J. Slater]

How about this for a new topic of discussion:

Kleb goes to the RustyQ via Tennessee and drives Duff's forward-only 240D
over to the RustyQ to swap it's engine into the parts 240D that Rusty
apparently gave to Kleb last year. The gang all pitches in to see how
quickly the job can be completed once Kleb rolls up in the forward-only
240D..

Now that would be an adventure!

...Kevin

Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plug conversion

[Kevin J. Slater]

Stephen,

not sure if this reply was aimed at my question about the loop to pencil
plug conversion on our 240D, but I'll just make that assumption!

Thanks for the advice. I have a friend making me some suitable plug to
plug cables since I don't have a good crimp tool. The plugs are on the way
from Rusty. I still may attempt to use 4 of the 5 spots on my 300D glow
plug relay at some point in the future, but there would be that issue of
it not seeing what it wants from the missing glow plug which would
probably cause the glow plug light on the dash to do funny things..

...Kevin

Stephen D Murrell said:
> I changed my loop glow plugs over to later pencil type; 1979 , just
> remove all the insulators & the Squiggly  resistance wire??? & put plugs
> in & hook wires on plugs; i had to have the Large plugs; later heads use
> the smaller ones, like later cars; didn't change the relay or anything
> else; Bosch had a kit with 4 glow plugs & the wires with crimped eyelets?
> already on them, think at least 10 guage, heavy wire; also this cut the
> glow time in 1/2 or more; still working after about 10 years??
> Steve
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>


-- 
"Thank God for Microsoft" -- Linus Torvalds

Re: [MBZ] loop style glow plug retrofit options?

[Kevin J. Slater]

Electrically, I should be able to just daisy chain the wires from one plug
to the next, but that's probably less than optimum. Any idea where I might
source some nice, pre-crimped, stranded cables?

...Kevin

LT Don said:
> You just need the plugs, not the whole kit. Get the four plugs from Rusty,
> replace the toaster-wires with real wires (thick ones), and disconnect the
> ground wire at the first glow plug. The old relay works just fine.
>
> On 10/24/06, Kevin J. Slater <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> The 79 240D we rescued from the rust demon / crusher is having trouble
>> coping with the suddenly cold Pa fall. Specifically, it's not starting
>> well. Last weekend my son and I adjusted the valves and I think we
>> improved things a bit there. Last night I turned my attention back to
>> the
>> glow plug system and to my dismay, I found that it is indeed an old loop
>> style series system. (Verified by pulling a plug to make doubly sure.)
>>
>> I chatted with Rusty this morning and found out that, unfortunately, the
>> Bosch conversion kits are unavailable (backordered). The replacement
>> pencil plugs are available however. So I'm trying figure out what my
>> options are for a conversion without the kit. I have the guts of the
>> glow
>> system from my deceased 82 300D (including the control module and wires)
>> if that's worth anything.
>>
>> Any advice from some of our more handy list members (Jim Cathey?)
>> greatly
>> appreciated.
>>
>> I really don't want my son to have to wrestle and pray each time he
>> tries
>> to get the car started after school..
>>
>> ...Kevin
>>
>> 87 300TD 280k mi
>> 79 240D 157k mi
>>
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Proudly marching to the beat of a different kettle of fish.
>


-- 
"Thank God for Microsoft" -- Linus Torvalds

[MBZ] loop style glow plug retrofit options?

[Kevin J. Slater]

The 79 240D we rescued from the rust demon / crusher is having trouble
coping with the suddenly cold Pa fall. Specifically, it's not starting
well. Last weekend my son and I adjusted the valves and I think we
improved things a bit there. Last night I turned my attention back to the
glow plug system and to my dismay, I found that it is indeed an old loop
style series system. (Verified by pulling a plug to make doubly sure.)

I chatted with Rusty this morning and found out that, unfortunately, the
Bosch conversion kits are unavailable (backordered). The replacement
pencil plugs are available however. So I'm trying figure out what my
options are for a conversion without the kit. I have the guts of the glow
system from my deceased 82 300D (including the control module and wires)
if that's worth anything.

Any advice from some of our more handy list members (Jim Cathey?) greatly
appreciated.

I really don't want my son to have to wrestle and pray each time he tries
to get the car started after school..

...Kevin

87 300TD 280k mi
79 240D 157k mi

[MBZ] Tan / Brown W123 frt passenger seat cover?

[Kevin J. Slater]

Do any of you have a front passenger seat cover that you'd be willing to
sell? The 240D's passenger seat cover is pretty torn up. This is MB-Tex
and it's the (medium) brown color. I only need the upper part / top half
of the seat, the part of the seat cover that the passenger leans back
against.

...Kevin
87 300TD 285k mi
79 240D 161k mi

Re: [MBZ] W123 brake bleeding, any gotchas?

[Kevin J. Slater]

Ok. So I tried to take a short cut and only bleed the left front, which is
the only caliper I worked on. All things considered, we should just do the
whole system I guess.

...Kevin

Jim Cathey said:
>> obvious that there is still air in the system. Are there any tricks to
>> bleeding a W123 system? Seems like a straightforward job, but my
>> results
>> to date are less than acceptable.
>
> Wash, rinse, repeat!  You do the rear first, either side first, then the
> RF, then the LF.  I had trouble on the 190D (using a check-valve one man
> bleeder dingus) until I got the wife in the front seat and did the whole
> verbal commands thing to sync the opening and closing of the bleeders
> with her pedal action.  Too much backwards air leakage otherwise.
>
> You _did_ get the bleed screws mounted upwards, right?  Left and right
> calipers are not interchangeable.
>
> -- Jim
>
>


-- 
"Thank God for Microsoft" -- Linus Torvalds

[MBZ] W123 brake bleeding, any gotchas?

[Kevin J. Slater]

Dieselers,

The 79 240D project car is nearing road worthiness again (and not a moment
too soon the 87 300TD has had numerous pending jobs postponed) thanks in
no small part to the members of this list. After the caliper rebuild and
the rear hub helicoil jobs, the only thing still on the list is a good
brake bleeding.

The left front caliper was full of air mostly once reassembled and I
attempted to pump bleed it out with the help of the car's future primary
driver, but when I moved it down the driveway the other day it became
obvious that there is still air in the system. Are there any tricks to
bleeding a W123 system? Seems like a straightforward job, but my results
to date are less than acceptable.

...Kevin

87 300TD 285k mi
79 240D 161k mi

Re: [MBZ] Problem with threads on rear hub

[Kevin J. Slater]

Well the tap didn't work. I thought it might but the bolt won't take the
82 ft-lbs that's required. So now I need to find a helicoil kit. Pepboyz
didn't have anything larger than 11mm. Anyone know for sure if one of the
major chains carries M12 x 1.5 kits? I'll be calling around at lunch
trying to hunt one down I guess. Hopefully, this is the last hurdle to
getting this project car on the road.

...Kevin

Barry Stark said:
> Yep, tap first to see if the threads are galled in the hub but if no joy
> then a helicoil would be my first choice. It can be done without taking
> anything apart except removing the wheel and it will be stronger than the
> original threads.
>
> Barry
>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of David Brodbeck
>> Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 11:06 AM
>> To: Mercedes Discussion List
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Problem with threads on rear hub
>>
>>
>> Kevin J. Slater wrote:
>> > If the threads are already too big a tap won't help much. What to do
>> in
>> > that case I wonder?
>> >
>>
>> Helicoil?
>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>


-- 
"Thank God for Microsoft" -- Linus Torvalds

Re: [MBZ] Problem with threads on rear hub

[Kevin J. Slater]

You don't happen to know what the tap specifics are for the wheel lug
bolts do you? And where does one find a tap in these days of big box
stores with 80% of what you need?

If the threads are already too big a tap won't help much. What to do in
that case I wonder?

...Kevin


Jim Cathey said:
>> What I fear is that the threads in the hub are too sloppy to engage
>> the threads properly. And looking at the cost of a new hub is a shock!
>
> I cleaned up the threads in my 190D with a tap.  So far, so good.
> A used hub is an excellent alternative, they very rarely go bad.
>
> -- Jim
>
>


-- 
"Thank God for Microsoft" -- Linus Torvalds

[MBZ] Problem with threads on rear hub

[Kevin J. Slater]

Dieselers,

I'm almost through with the problems found during inspection of the
project 1979 240D. One of the things spotted was a rear hub lug bolt that
wouldn't torque. I checked it and sure enough the threads on the end of
the lug bolt were squashed or flattened. I ordered some new ones from
Rusty and it seemed like it might torque down, but when I swapped tires
back there it seemed like I'm in the same boat again with another lug
bolt. What I fear is that the threads in the hub are too sloppy to engage
the threads properly. And looking at the cost of a new hub is a shock! Any
options for this? Wisdom needed.

...Kevin
87 300TD 285k mi
79 240D 156k mi

Re: [MBZ] rebuilding a W123 front caliper..

[Kevin J. Slater]

Hey Larry,

thanks for the warning. As it turns out I didn't have a fitting that would
allow me to connect the air compressor to the caliper. So I took a finger
of a disposable rubber mechanics glove and wound it around the tip of my
air blaster nozzle. That allowed me to make a so-so seal against the place
where the brake hose connects. A little air and one puck out. Now I had to
figure out how to get the other one out with a gaping hole in my caliper.
It looked like the bleeder fitting might be the ticket so I tried air in
there and viola', the other puck was out. Now I just have to get it
cleaned up and reassembled. Thanks for the tips Peter, Jim and Larry. I
think I may be in business with just a rebuild.

...Kevin

LarryT said:
> Hi Kevin,
> Yes, Haynes covers it.
>
> As far as using a air compressor - those saying it's dangerous are not
> wrong!  I used air to get the pistons from my 911 calipers - luckily I
> kept
> a piece of 2x4 in the caliper so the piston would hit the wood instead of
> the metal caliper -  but the surprising thing is the force exhibited when
> the pistons come out!!  Ka Blam!!
>
> Make sure you lubricate all parts with fresh brake fluid during assembly.
> That keeps them flexible and helps them go into place.
>
> Good luck -
>
> Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
> www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
> Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
> Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
> .
> - Original Message -
> From: "Kevin J. Slater" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Cc: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 2:05 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] rebuilding a W123 front caliper..
>
>
>> Jim and Sunil,
>>
>> thanks for the responses. Since I don't have experience doing this, I'm
>> wondering if there is a procedure for it in the shop manuals (I'm
>> doubting
>> it since they expect the mechanics using those manuals are experienced)
>> or
>> maybe in the Haynes manual. I'm great a disassembly, but a procedure is
>> always welcome to cover the things that experience teaches.
>>
>> ...Kevin
>>
>> Jim Cathey said:
>>>> The '79 240D project car for my son has a leaking left front caliper.
>>>> Bought a rebuild kit from Rusty. Any tips or pitfalls that I need to
>>>> be
>>>> aware of? This is my first time rebuilding a caliper so any tips
>>>> appreciated.
>>>
>>> It's easy and fun!  No real pitfalls, I use 600-grit wet-and-dry
>>> sandpaper in a bucket of water to clean gunk and corrosion off of
>>> the pucks and out of the bores.  Work parallel to the sealing rings,
>>> not perpendicularly.  You don't want scratches (and there shouldn't
>>> be any) in a direction that will encourage leaks.
>>>
>>>> make sure you have an air compressor to blow out the pistons.   doing
>>>> it any
>>>> other way is hard.  Also, fit the rubber boots to the pistons BEFORE
>>>> you
>>>
>>> I've done this, but its scary and a little bit dangerous.  Compressed
>>> air really bangs the pucks out of there, you need wood to catch the
>>> puck against.  I've chipped a puck before doing this, and people have
>>> been hurt too.
>>>
>>> Much better is to drive them out with the brake system, though that
>>> takes
>>> a bit of fiddling to get the second puck out.  Or you can do as I did
>>> recently and use a water-filled grease gun to do the job.  Tres cool!
>>> And totally safe.  http://cathey.dogear.com/mb190d.html
>>>
>>> I still use the air compressor, but only to dry things off.
>>>
>>>> slide the pistons into the cylinders.  Once the pistons are totally
>>>> seated,
>>>> it's really hard to fit the boots on.
>>>
>>> Just put 'em on before you fully seat the pucks.  You don't have to put
>>> them on before you start to insert them, unless you find that to be
>>> easier for you.
>>>
>>> -- Jim
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> "Thank God for Microsoft" -- Linus Torvalds
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>>
>> --
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>> Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.6/427 - Release Date:
>> 8/24/2006
>>
>
>


-- 
"Thank God for Microsoft" -- Linus Torvalds

Re: [MBZ] rebuilding a W123 front caliper..

[Kevin J. Slater]

Jim and Sunil,

thanks for the responses. Since I don't have experience doing this, I'm
wondering if there is a procedure for it in the shop manuals (I'm doubting
it since they expect the mechanics using those manuals are experienced) or
maybe in the Haynes manual. I'm great a disassembly, but a procedure is
always welcome to cover the things that experience teaches.

...Kevin

Jim Cathey said:
>> The '79 240D project car for my son has a leaking left front caliper.
>> Bought a rebuild kit from Rusty. Any tips or pitfalls that I need to be
>> aware of? This is my first time rebuilding a caliper so any tips
>> appreciated.
>
> It's easy and fun!  No real pitfalls, I use 600-grit wet-and-dry
> sandpaper in a bucket of water to clean gunk and corrosion off of
> the pucks and out of the bores.  Work parallel to the sealing rings,
> not perpendicularly.  You don't want scratches (and there shouldn't
> be any) in a direction that will encourage leaks.
>
>> make sure you have an air compressor to blow out the pistons.   doing
>> it any
>> other way is hard.  Also, fit the rubber boots to the pistons BEFORE
>> you
>
> I've done this, but its scary and a little bit dangerous.  Compressed
> air really bangs the pucks out of there, you need wood to catch the
> puck against.  I've chipped a puck before doing this, and people have
> been hurt too.
>
> Much better is to drive them out with the brake system, though that
> takes
> a bit of fiddling to get the second puck out.  Or you can do as I did
> recently and use a water-filled grease gun to do the job.  Tres cool!
> And totally safe.  http://cathey.dogear.com/mb190d.html
>
> I still use the air compressor, but only to dry things off.
>
>> slide the pistons into the cylinders.  Once the pistons are totally
>> seated,
>> it's really hard to fit the boots on.
>
> Just put 'em on before you fully seat the pucks.  You don't have to put
> them on before you start to insert them, unless you find that to be
> easier for you.
>
> -- Jim
>
>


-- 
"Thank God for Microsoft" -- Linus Torvalds

[MBZ] rebuilding a W123 front caliper..

[Kevin J. Slater]

The '79 240D project car for my son has a leaking left front caliper.
Bought a rebuild kit from Rusty. Any tips or pitfalls that I need to be
aware of? This is my first time rebuilding a caliper so any tips
appreciated.

...Kevin
87 300TD 285k mi
79 240D 161k mi


-- 
"Thank God for Microsoft" -- Linus Torvalds

Re: [MBZ] A/C on the cheap (126, 210, 124)

[Kevin J. Slater]

Yep, between Jim, Loren and Dr. Booth we have the entire spectrum covered..

:-)

...Kevin

Harry Watkins said:
> And then you went for breakfast.
>
> Very nice write-up and a real keeper for me with two SDLs.  We have very
> few
> MBs in our junk yards and no PNPs that I've found.  I'll bet there are
> plenty of Camrys out there though.
>
> Jim learned you good.
>
> Harry Watkins
> Newton, MS
> 86 SDL Silver
> 85 300D Euro
> 86 SDL Gold
> 81 240D manual trans
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Loren Faeth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>> Gather round, Y'all and I will fill you in on my cheap A/C experiment
>> for
>> my 400k SDL(Toada/MB hack)
>>
>> Since Jim Cathy is the inspiration to all us who are broke or
>> cheapskates,
>> I'd like to credit Jim for his assistance and inspiration.  I probably
>> would not have started this adventure if not for 2 occurrences: 1:  A
>> post
>> from Jim that some Camrys (Camrii?) also have ND 10P15Ccompressors as
>> does
>> my SDL, most 201s and some 124s.  2: The opening of a GenUwine Pick n
>> pull
>> yard within a reasonable distance.  Y'all would not be reading this if
>> Jim
>> had not encouraged me to write up my findings.
>>
>> Here is the situation:  Been gassing up the A/C on the SDL for each of
>> the
>> last 3 years.  Last fall the KLIMA relay bit the dust too.  The
>> compressor
>> is leaking out the old seals, so its death is approaching.  So in order
>> to
>> avoid the bad car-ma of having bits of the innards of the compressor
> strewn
>> through the innards of the A/C system, we deemed it was time to buy a
>> new
>> compressor.  So, here is the approximate tally:
>>
>> Compressor $475-500
>> KLIMA  ~ $100
>> Receiver/drier  ~$25
>> Gas  ~$25
>> etc
>>
>> So, in order to keep my cool, I was looking at $700+ for a car the
> probably
>> would not bring over $1500 on a good day.  I decided that was too much
>> to
>> spend on the SDL, wonderful as it is.  I was contemplating just using it
> in
>> the winter and letting it rust away, as a sacrifice to the rust
>> demon.  Then the 2 above mentioned incidents occurred in close
>> proximity.
>>
>> On my first foray to the PNP, I was discouraged.  I found only 1 10P15C
>> with the right hose setup.  A very tired old compressor that looked like
> it
>> had quit and had the belt cut off years ago.  I decided to pass on that
>> one.  This week I did some more searching and asked Jim again what cars
>> also had 10P15C compressors.  Between Jim and the searches I found out
> that
>> these cars had the 10P15C compressor:
>> 83-86 Camry
>> 85-87 Corolla
>> Some 4-runners
>> some integra
>> and Lincolns from some year (maybe 85?) to 1991
>> (there may be more)
>>
>> If your car has a 10PA15C, then that compressor is used on most later
>> Toyotas.  Read on for more detail.
>>
>> Armed with this info. I went to the PNP again, a week later.  I found
>> some
>> in the Lincolns, but they looked like a bear to get out.  It looks like
> you
>> have to drop the engine/front subframe, then pull the compressorbad
>> news.  So I kept looking.  I found LOTS of later Toyotas with 10PA15C
>> compressors.  I had some info that many of the later 124s and 126use the
>> 10PA series.  My 88TE has the 10PA15C.  I know it was said that the P
>> and
>> PA series are NOT interchangeable, but I found a nice clean 10PA15C on a
> 90
>> Camry and removed it along with a chunk of both hoses.  It was charged,
>> so
>> it looked like a good compressor.  Turning it by hand it seemed to work
>> great.  I held it up close to a 10P15C and discovered that the manifolds
>> were different sizes and I could NOT use the MB manifold from my P
>> compressor on the PA series.  Hm.  I found 2 older camrii with the
>> 10P15C compressor.  both looked old and fairly dirty.  I decided to try
> the
>> better looking of the 2.  I figured if it held gas, that it was better
> than
>> the compressor on  my car.  It had a full charge of gas, so I picked it
>> off.  Nice thing about camrii:  all you need to pop off the compressor
>> is
> a
>> 12mm socket and rachet and a 3" extension.  2 bolts for the hoses, 3
>> bolts
>> for the mounting and snip the wires.  It is ALL done form the topside!
> Wow!
>>
>> SO, I checked out with my haul ($25 each + a $10 core charge) and
>> figured
> I
>> had at least a couple of options:
>> 1.  Swap the clutch and manifold and use the 10P15C from the 86 camry.
>> 2.  Figure out a way to bolt up the PA, and have a good reliable
>> compressor, if I can find a MB manifold for it.  (Still have to swap the
>> manifold and clutch
>> 3.  Figure out the way to bolt up the PA, swap the clutch and do a hack
> job
>> to use the Toada hose sections spliced into the MB hoses (shudder)
>> (Don't
>> do this on a good car!)
>>
>> When I got back, I took off the compressor form the SDL.  It appears it
>> might be the original.  If it made 400K, that is pretty good service.  I
>> know it made at least 230k, because i have never changed it.  Eith

Re: [MBZ] 240d vacuum troubleshooting questions..

[Kevin J. Slater]

Thanks Craig.

After reading Jim's reply yesterday I had a look at the situation in the
trunk again. With the lines connected correctly to the trunk lock
diaphram, the system can't hold a vacuum. From the diagram that Craig
sent, it looks like the next place to look is the master switch in the
driver's door.

...Kevin
87 300TD 284k mi
79 240D 161k mi

Craig McCluskey said:
> On Wed, 2 Aug 2006 11:16:32 -0700 Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> One sucks to unlock (green), one sucks to lock (red).  Unless I've
>> got my colors mixed up!  The filler pod only has the locking line
>> going to it, so that's a good check.  The opposing line is
>> simultaneously vented to atmospheric by the vacuum valve in the
>> driver's door.
>
>
> See attached GIF.
>
>
> Craig
> -- next part --
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: vac.composite.gif
> Type: image/gif
> Size: 18563 bytes
> Desc: not available
> Url :
> /pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20060803/d9863f2b/attachment.gif
> ___
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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-- 
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[MBZ] 240d vacuum troubleshooting questions..

[Kevin J. Slater]

Was working on the 79 240d with my son last evening and got into a little
bit of troubleshooting the non-functioning vacuum system. When we took
ownership of the car the vacuum line for the locking system was
disconnected under the hood with a plug in the vacuum tee. Pulling a
vacuum on the disconnected line showed a definite leak. Since we were
doing other work in the trunk anyway, I decided to start with the trunk
lock.

The trunk lock was only releasing with the key (turn all the way counter
clockwise and depress the button) which I knew was incorrect. NOTE: it
wasn't just that the lock was toggled into the lock position, the key was
always required no matter what.

Examining the vacuum pod I saw that one of the lines was disconnected. A
test of both sides of the pod with the Mityvac showed it to be good. I
swapped the lines on the pod and now the source vacuum line under the hood
holds a vacuum and the trunk lock works without the key as it should.
(Although I haven't tried all modes of operation yet.) The car also shuts
down immediately as it should in the current configuration.

The bad news is that the fuel filler door lock is also engaged all of the
time. Also, none of the door locks respond at all. I'm wondering if the
fuel filler pod lines have also been swapped around incorrectly? Each pod
has 2 lines to it. (One to lock, one to unlock, right?) What is the
yellow/green line's purpose in relation to the yellow/red line? Anyone
have a schematic that would help clarify?

...Kevin
87 300TD 284k mi (also with non-functioning vacuum locks)
79 240D 151k mi

[MBZ] W124 A/C next steps..

[Kevin J. Slater]

My A/C in the 87 300TD stopped working. It's been converted to R134a by
one of the previous owners. So I bought a can of R134a + extras that had a
separate gauge. I connected said gauge to the low side port and started
the car and turned the A/C on high. The pressure was in the green -
somewhere btw 45 and 60 psi, I didn't write down the exact number.

I noticed a couple of things:

1) aux fan didn't kick on. I know the fan works b/c if you apply power
directly it runs.

2) compressor clutch didn't engage. I pulled the leads off the high
pressure switch and shorted them, still no clutch engagement.

What's the next thing I should be looking at?

...Kevin
87 300TD 285k mi

Re: [MBZ] W126 seats fit into a W123?

[Kevin J. Slater]

It's more for aesthetic reasons. The seats in the 240D have some tears and
rips. We did find a W123 there that had a blue MB-Tex interior that had
good seat covers. But the 240D is brown. I don't suppose it's possible to
re-dye MB-Tex is it?

...Kevin

Steve MacSween said:
> The bases will fit, the seats themselves will fit as well except that I
> can't say if there will be enough clearance for the original w126 driver's
> armrest between the seats, without it rubbing the passenger seat... it's
> pretty wide. I am bound to say, however, that unless you are stuck on the
> idea of a power seat, I would not trade w126 seats for w123 ones --
> especially the late w123 style. Maybe that's just an issue with how I'm
> built, dunno.
>
> As asides... w126 seats into w116s used to be a pretty common switch, to
> gain the advantages of the power seats. Going the other way, I had w123
> Coupe seats in my w116 for years, and found them more comfortable than the
> original items (which I installed when I had the car painted, and
> regretted
> afterwards).
>
> Mac
>
> on 7/14/06 3:07 PM, Kevin J. Slater at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
>> Was at the PickNPull yesterday picking up another part and saw a set of
>> seats whose color and look matches those in the 79 240D. I don't figure
>> they'll fit because they'd be too wide, but just in case, would they
>> fit?
>> I know that the SD they're in now would have power seat bases and the
>> 240D
>> has the good old manual ones, but otherwise?
>>
>> ...Kevin
>> 87 300TD 284k mi
>> 79 240D 156k mi
>>
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>


-- 
"Thank God for Microsoft" -- Linus Torvalds

[MBZ] W126 seats fit into a W123?

[Kevin J. Slater]

Was at the PickNPull yesterday picking up another part and saw a set of
seats whose color and look matches those in the 79 240D. I don't figure
they'll fit because they'd be too wide, but just in case, would they fit?
I know that the SD they're in now would have power seat bases and the 240D
has the good old manual ones, but otherwise?

...Kevin
87 300TD 284k mi
79 240D 156k mi

Re: [MBZ] 1979 240D no speedo, odo or trip

[Kevin J. Slater]

Where does the speedo cable terminate underneath? (General area is fine.)

...Kevin

Peter Frederick said:
> Replace cable and housing, check the gear on the end.  If the cable
> broke in the housing, a new cable only will probably do the same
> shortly.
>
> Peter
>
>

[MBZ] 1979 240D no speedo, odo or trip

[Kevin J. Slater]

The 1979 240D we rescued from south Va has a problem with the speedometer,
odometer and trip odometer. Basically, they were working when we first
drove the car in late April but they didn't work when we brought it back
in early June.

My son just popped the cluster out and disconnected the cable from the
back. Then he took a short ride and had someone watch the end of the cable
(while he hopefully kept his eyes on the road). It doesn't spin. I suppose
it could be the other end or a broken cable. Any tips on how to proceed?

...Kevin
1979 240D 159k mi
1987 300TD 284k mi

Re: [MBZ] Amazing July specials from BuyMBparts.com

[Kevin J. Slater]

Put up a temporary HTML page on buymbparts.com and provide a link?

...Kevin

Gary Hurst said:
> that is exactly what i did.  this doesn't work, huh?  better ideas?
>
> On 6/21/06, Steve MacSween <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> on 6/21/06 12:26 PM, Jim Cathey at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>>
>> >> Rusty is feeling kinda lonely, so he's giving away parts again to get
>> >> you
>> >> to call us.  That silly Rusty!
>> >
>> > Wow is that chart (?) hard to read!
>>
>> Methinks Hursty has used HTML to build an e-mail chart. Bad Hursty, bad!
>>
>> Mac
>>
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>


-- 
"Thank God for Microsoft" -- Linus Torvalds

Re: [MBZ] 240D rescued..

[Kevin J. Slater]

The drive was fine. Although since I feel like I drove both cars home (the
Trailblazer with our popup trailer in tow and the 240D that I was watching
in the rear view mirrors the whole way home).

It's starting pretty well but it's summer time. When fall rolls around
we'll get the parallel plugs / wiring in place and make sure the valves
are adjusted properly.

The rubber seal around the rear windshield is really old and hard and it
looks like someone tried to put some silicone over it to seal it. I found
some water in the left rear seat footwell last evening after some heavy
rain so I have leaking from somewhere.

What are the common water infiltration modes on a W123?

...Kevin
87 300TD 284k mi
79 240D 156k mi

LarryT said:
> Hi Kevin,
> Glad to hear you decided to buy it -- hate to see such a car waste away to
> nothing -
>
> How was the drive from Va to Pa?  uneventful I hope -
>
> Sounds like the problems are not going to be too expensive to overcome -
> have you done a compression test yet?  Hopefully the compression test will
> show good numbers -
>
> I know Gary had the head done (and spent ~$1500) in an attempt to get it
> to
> start better when cold - I told him back then it needed Fast Glow Plugs
> and
> ordered the kit for him from Rusty.  Don't know why the full kit wasn't
> installed - but Gary said it started great after he installed the kit -
> perhaps something happened later and the big wires were put back on --
> maybe
> we'll solve this mystery as you dig into it.  I highly recommend a Fast
> Glow
> Kit since there's not one in place presently.
>
> Good luck - and let me know how that drive went! ;-)
>
> Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
> www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
> Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> - Original Message -
> From: "Kevin J. Slater" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 2:33 PM
> Subject: [MBZ] 240D rescued..
>
>
>> Hey dieselers,
>>
>> Just wanted to provide a quick trip report from my 'mastadon hunting'
>> adventure over the weekend. My 16 y/o son and I went down to Richmond to
>> retrieve a 1979 240D that had been sitting for the better part of a year
>> since it was last started. Although the car had been well taken care of
>> earlier in life, it had fallen into that state where the crusher was the
>> likely next step.
>>
>> A couple of weeks back we went down and got it started and drove it
>> around
>> briefly to make sure we weren't buying a clapped out expense pit. (Maybe
>> we still have, only time will tell.) It took a new battery and lots of
>> goading but we got it started spewing a huge cloud of unburnt diesel
>> smoke
>> to the applause of the assembled neighbors and the seller. We left $40
>> deposit and pulled our new battery and headed home to decide whether to
>> pull the trigger or not.
>>
>> This past Friday we dropped in paid for it - the balance of $500; used a
>> few washers to fix the right wiper arm; replaced the battery with our
>> new
>> one; put a tiger muffler wrap on the rusted out part of the exhaust
>> downpipe (the rest of the exhaust is < 1 year old); cleaned out the
>> trunk
>> and dropped in the spare we took down; found the original spare in a
>> pile
>> of weeds and threw that in; replaced most of the right side bulbs;
>> headed
>> to the Va DMV to get a $5 trip permit to take her home semi-legally
>> (with
>> no plates); put a can of diesel purge in the tank; filled her with fresh
>> diesel; took her to the wand-car wash and hosed and scrubbed off 1
>> years+
>> worth of dirt and debris; and finally drove her north to Mars, Pa.
>>
>> A veritable 'walk-in-the-park' to quote Johnny B.
>>
>> There are issues:
>>
>> 1) Ignition tumbler is somewhat dicey at times, requiring the key to be
>> pulled out just a bit to get it to turn.
>>
>> 2) Driver's side rear door is locked (?) shut as previously mentioned
>> and
>> can't be opened.
>>
>> 3) Starter didn't engage a few times. I don't think it's the neutral
>> safety switch and may be related to item 1)
>>
>> 4) The front suspension seems to have negative camber. (I noticed this
>> while following the car up a hill or two on the way home.) I don't know
>> if
>> this is right or worn rubber or something else.
>>
>> 5) The speedometer, odometer and trip odometer are inoperable. I think
>> they did work on the init

Re: [MBZ] Even the rich are dumb!

[Kevin J. Slater]

>From the article "..it's a $2 million piece of scrap metal..". I'll bet
Kleb would give them $100 for it.

...Kevin

Mike Canfield said:
> Ok then did MB give him the option of returning it to them for repairs or
> did they just tell him to blow off?  It is also not illegal for a
> collector
> to own that car in the US just may not be operated upon the highways.
>
> Mike
> - Original Message -
> From: "David Brodbeck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 1:29 AM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Even the rich are dumb!
>
>
>> Mike Canfield wrote:
>>> So you say it is OK for a manufacturer to produce and sell a $1.7
>>> million
>>> dollar piece of   And furthermore they need not stand behind their
>>> product???
>>
>> He imported a car that not only wasn't sold in the U.S., it wasn't even
>> legal here.  Now he's finding out how it works when you buy something on
>> the gray market.  If it breaks, you get to keep both pieces; the
>> manufacturer has no obligations.
>>
>> It's not unlike if you buy a Ford and drive it into Mexico.  If it
>> breaks down, they're not going to send someone down there to fix it for
>> you.  If you want warranty service you'll have to drag it back into the
>> U.S., first.
>>
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>


-- 
"Thank God for Microsoft" -- Linus Torvalds

Re: [MBZ] OT - 'Audi V12 Diesel Sports Racer just won the LeMans 24h !!'

[Kevin J. Slater]

Completely different situation. Most road racing transmissions don't allow
for easy engagement like a passenger car, the pretty much lockup solid
once the clutch is released. Not spinning the tires is begging to stall in
the pit lane in Formula 1. I'm guessing the ALMS (or Le Mans proper) cars
are pretty much the same.

...Kevin

Peter T. Arnold said:
>
>>
>>The most bizarre thing about this years LeMans race is the new rule
>>dictating the drivers not spin their tires when leaving the pits!  Even
>> the
>>announcers (who have a great many years of endurance racing experience)
>>could not find any reasons for the new rule.
>>
> Not rocket science.
> Ever notice the huge crowd of spectators/tech's/picture takers around
> the cars as they leave?
> You need a stable car to drive out in and avoid have to make excuses
> after for a tragic accident.
> I follow a LOT of drag racing.  None would ever be allowed to be
> forward of the rear wheels of a car while it "Launches".  They can and
> do turn hard port/starboard in extreme cases of breakage
>
> Pete
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>


-- 
"Thank God for Microsoft" -- Linus Torvalds

Re: [MBZ] Non-Project 240D in Washington

[Kevin J. Slater]

When I read our 240D's VIN to the insurance person over the phone it gave
them pause:

123.123-12-121284

...Kevin

Jim Cathey said:
> Of interest to me was the VIN, which I'd never examined before:
> 123.123-12-123356.  Only 100 off from a very interesting number.
> Perhaps even more amusing would have been a serial number of 123123.
> Had it been either of these maybe I could have gotten extra money out
> of an eBay sale?
>
> -- Jim
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>


-- 
"Thank God for Microsoft" -- Linus Torvalds

Re: [MBZ] Non-Project 240D in Washington

[Kevin J. Slater]

Great news Jim! Sometimes a change of location is all it takes I guess..

...Kevin
87 300TD 284k mi
79 240D 156k mi

Jim Cathey said:
>>> The Albatross is headed for Vancouver WA,
>> Ooh, so close I can almost smell it hahahahaha!
>
> The Albatross has been sold.  A nice young woman in NE Portland
> with a bunch of biodiesel-head friends was interested in moving
> 'down' for financial reasons (trading in a newer Civic for the
> 240D, a bicycle, and enough cash to stake her in school) and
> really liked the idea of owning her first Benz, and her first
> diesel.  She liked the interior room of the car, the more upright
> (and higher seating), and the fact that the car did not scrape in
> her steep driveway (unlike the Honda).  She found the seats to be
> exceptionally comfortable.  The 240D, though larger than the
> Civic, was not as ponderous as she had feared.  The car will be
> mostly city driven, with an occasional highway road trip to visit
> family.  (I told her to leave it in S except on the highway.)
>
> She has mechanically-minded friends and family, and an older
> car held no fears for her.  Her man once drove his VW bus to
> Guatemala, so I think the car will be in good company!
>
> ORDOT gave her no trouble, the car is already plated.  We
> delivered the car only yesterday.  (She called when she had
> trouble starting, but before we could return her call she'd
> whipped out the owner's manual and followed the starting
> instructions therein.  No problem starting then.)
>
> We got half a dozen calls (and unreceived e-mails) on the car
> once its new locations had been advertised.
>
> -- Jim
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>


-- 
"Thank God for Microsoft" -- Linus Torvalds

[MBZ] 240D rescued..

[Kevin J. Slater]

Hey dieselers,

Just wanted to provide a quick trip report from my 'mastadon hunting'
adventure over the weekend. My 16 y/o son and I went down to Richmond to
retrieve a 1979 240D that had been sitting for the better part of a year
since it was last started. Although the car had been well taken care of
earlier in life, it had fallen into that state where the crusher was the
likely next step.

A couple of weeks back we went down and got it started and drove it around
briefly to make sure we weren't buying a clapped out expense pit. (Maybe
we still have, only time will tell.) It took a new battery and lots of
goading but we got it started spewing a huge cloud of unburnt diesel smoke
to the applause of the assembled neighbors and the seller. We left $40
deposit and pulled our new battery and headed home to decide whether to
pull the trigger or not.

This past Friday we dropped in paid for it - the balance of $500; used a
few washers to fix the right wiper arm; replaced the battery with our new
one; put a tiger muffler wrap on the rusted out part of the exhaust
downpipe (the rest of the exhaust is < 1 year old); cleaned out the trunk
and dropped in the spare we took down; found the original spare in a pile
of weeds and threw that in; replaced most of the right side bulbs; headed
to the Va DMV to get a $5 trip permit to take her home semi-legally (with
no plates); put a can of diesel purge in the tank; filled her with fresh
diesel; took her to the wand-car wash and hosed and scrubbed off 1 years+
worth of dirt and debris; and finally drove her north to Mars, Pa.

A veritable 'walk-in-the-park' to quote Johnny B.

There are issues:

1) Ignition tumbler is somewhat dicey at times, requiring the key to be
pulled out just a bit to get it to turn.

2) Driver's side rear door is locked (?) shut as previously mentioned and
can't be opened.

3) Starter didn't engage a few times. I don't think it's the neutral
safety switch and may be related to item 1)

4) The front suspension seems to have negative camber. (I noticed this
while following the car up a hill or two on the way home.) I don't know if
this is right or worn rubber or something else.

5) The speedometer, odometer and trip odometer are inoperable. I think
they did work on the initial visit. I have a 300D cluster I could swap in.
Is it possible to substitute and is everything in a 240D for a working
tach?

The car has about 15x,000 miles. The transmissions shifts well with no
hesitation. All in all, even SWMBO, agrees it's a good fit for our first
16 y/o driver. (My wife almost admitted to liking it.) I can shoot and
post pictures if anyone is interested.

Thanks to Larry for putting us onto this car - Larry you can let Gary know
the car will be put back in proper running order. Thanks also to Marshall
for the tip on the Va. trip permit.

...Kevin
87 300TD 284k mi
79 240D 156k mi

Re: [MBZ] Insurance rates and cheap living

[Kevin J. Slater]

Gerry,

I'm right along that route if you want a place to stop for a bite to eat
or whatever. (Depending on your timing.) I'm 25 minutes north of
Pittsburgh and 10 minutes from I-79 on your way up to Erie and points
north.

...Kevin
87 300TD 284k mi

Curt Raymond said:
> Let us know if you come through MA. I've also got 85 acres of prime
> nothing in northern Maine you're welcome to check out if you'd like.
>
>   -Curt
>
>   Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2006 20:46:28 -0400
> From: "archer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] Insurance rates and cheap living
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>  reply-type=original
>
>
>
>> Feel free to come and inspect our mountains in the Adirondack Region
>> of NY, if the wind blows you that far off course. the Adirondack Park
>> is comprised of 6,000,000 acres of public and private lands.
>>
>> Johnny B.
>> I Mac Therefore I am
>
> Looked Adirondack Park up on an Eastern US map.  That place is "big"
> and its
> way up there.  It looks like that from Dave Gilmores place in W.Va I
> could
> go to Pittsburgh, take   I-79 to Erie, and I-90 to I-87 which goes
> right
> through the Park.  From there I'm guessing one could pick a route to
> Maine
> that would avoid heavy traffic nearer the coast.  Never have been
> further
> north in New England than Boston.
> Thanks,
> Gerry
>
>
>  __
> Do You Yahoo!?
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>
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>


-- 
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Re: [MBZ] 240D wheel question..

[Kevin J. Slater]

Any chance the wheel bolts from my W124 alloys would work?

...Kevin

Jim Cathey said:
>> This car has the wheels with the painted hubcaps (so cool looking)
>> which I assume means steel wheels?
>
> Yes.
>
>> does the W123 have the same issue with different length wheel
>> bolts like the W124's do?
>
> Yes.  If you have an alloy spare you'll need a set of compatible
> longer bolts to go with it.
>
> -- Jim
>
>


-- 
"Thank God for Microsoft" -- Linus Torvalds

[MBZ] 240D wheel question..

[Kevin J. Slater]

One of the items I need to take care of before I attempt to retrieve the
'79 240D I've been looking at is a spare tire. There wasn't one in the
trunk. This car has the wheels with the painted hubcaps (so cool looking)
which I assume means steel wheels? I have a bundt cake wheel from my RIP
82 300D, does the W123 have the same issue with different length wheel
bolts like the W124's do?

...Kevin
87 300TD 284k mi

Re: [MBZ] 240D from VA to PA, need advice..

[Kevin J. Slater]

This is a private seller that plans to simply sign the title over to me. I
checked with the VA DMV's hotline and the helpful person on the phone said
that the temporary transport tag (good for 3 days and a specified start
and end point pair) is good for out-of-state transport as well. This can
be picked up at any DMV service center and requires proof of insurance,
the signed title and payment of the fee.

So eventhough the website says VA residents only, I'm going with that
plan. Thanks to Marshall for pointing out the link on the VA DMV site.

...Kevin
87 300TD 284k mi

Tan Qu said:
> Usually you can get a temporary tag from where you buy
> the car by explaining to them that you want to
> register the car in a different state but want
> something to transport the car legally. You will need
> the title signed over to your name and insurance proof
> for the car.
>
>
> Tan
>
> --- Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> Kevin J. Slater wrote:
>> > I'm in need of some advice. I have a car I want to
>> buy that's located in
>> > Virginia. It's been sitting for a while so it's
>> not inspected and it
>> > doesn't have plates. I live in PA and I'd like to
>> drive it back. (Towing
>> > isn't an option b/c of other complications for
>> this trip.) I don't think I
>> > can get plates for it in PA since I don't have the
>> title. I don't think I
>> > want to try to get plates in VA since that would
>> entail paying a bunch of
>> > fees that I'll just have to pay again in PA.
>> >
>> > You guys that buy a lot of cars, what do you do?
>> Once I get it back in PA
>> > it's an easy process to get it properly inspected,
>> get the title
>> > transferred and get new plates for it.
>> >
>> > ...Kevin
>> > 87 300TD 284k miles
>> >
>> >
>>
>> Have you contacted PennDOT?
>>
>> I'm pretty sure there IS a way to do what you want,
>> but I can't recall
>> what it is.
>>
>> Check THIS site - esp the next to last paragraph!
>>
> http://www.dmv.state.va.us/webdoc/citizen/vehicles/temp_permit.asp
>>
>>
>> Marshall
>> --
>>Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned
>> questions)
>>"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
>> turbo 237kmi, '84
>> 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new parts see official list sponsor:
>> http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>


-- 
"Thank God for Microsoft" -- Linus Torvalds

Re: [MBZ] A possibly entertaining story, addition.

[Kevin J. Slater]

Ha! I remember taking two cross country trips with my family as a youth.
Both times we took 9 kids (leaving either the eldest or youngest of 10
behind) and 2 parents and all fit into a single chevy station wagon. One
lucky small child got to take the space between the middle and rear bench
seats as his own space. (Rear facing rear seat.) That leaves 3 up front, 4
in the middle row and 3 in the rear. And I don't think any of us had
proper restraint. Half of time in the middle row, we turned around
backwards and used the seat as a table to keep us busy. Today both of
parents would be in shackles and the 10 kids would be wards of the state..

...Kevin

Rich Thomas said:
> Damn, how did the human race ever survive without AC in our cars?
> Babies dying everywhere from no AC in cars.  It's a wonder I survived, I
> think my parents had a 49 Ford or some such POS that brought me home,
> and the leaded-gas pollution that thing belched, drum brakes, no power
> steering, NO SEAT BELTS, NO CPSC-approved CAR SEAT, no electric windows,
> no auto tranny, no rear-view video camera, no cell phone or ipod
> attachments, no drop-down vid screens and DVD player, no "R" stickers,
> no pedestrian-friendly bumpers, no warning chimes telling them to buckle
> up, no DOT-approved tires, no ABS, no radar-powered adaptive cruise
> control, I must be some statistical aberration (in regards to riding
> home in the car anyway).  They told me that they organized the back seat
> with a sheet of plywood over the foot well so they could put blankets
> and such there to make a bed for me to sleep on on long trips (and I
> think there is a photo of that somewhere).  HORRORS
>
> --R
>
>
> Bob Rentfro wrote:
>
>>I had a '62 Falcon with the little 170 (?) 6 in it and the 3 on the tree
>>tranny. My favorite thing was lifting the hood and seeing more driveway
>> than
>>engine. The thing that sucked a bit was that all the '60s Mustangs used
>> the
>>same AC parts as the Falcon. The Mustang boys generally had more sweet
>> moola
>>to lay down for scarce AC parts than young Falcon drivers did.
>>All of yous guys have your how I about froze story...well the old
>> Fal-coon,
>>with its no AC, gives me an it's too hot story. When boy child was born
>>(7/21/89) I was ready to take him home because my wife stayed in the hsp
>> for
>>a spell batteling Krohn's, the crusty old nurse would not let me take him
>>cross town in my "piece of crap with no air...you wanna cook this kid?"
>>
>>Bob Rentfro
>>
>>
>>- Original Message -
>>From: "Loren Faeth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
>>Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2006 7:35 AM
>>Subject: Re: [MBZ] need advice & A possibly entertaining story.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>Falcons were near the model T for simplicity.  I had a friend in HS who
>>>had
>>>one with a gazillion miles.  The auto trans got to where it would not
>>>shift
>>>out of low, so he drove it around (slowly) in low with the engine
>>>screamin'  He later graduated to a 62 falcon van named Butch.  Butch
>>>finally went to the crusher last fall.
>>>
>>>At 08:44 AM 6/7/2006, you wrote:
>>>
>>>
>car at the time was an old Austin Marina 4 door, 4 cylinder, 4 speed.
>Sometime after I left I lost the brakes or at least most of them.
>Since I
>was driving in the very early morning during the week on mostly 2 lane
>roads through the countryside, I made it without incident. REALLY
>STUPID,
>
>
I've got one of those.  '60 Falcon, returning cross-state to Cow
 College
(mostly 2-lane roads) after Christmas break with my girlfriend,
 Saturday
night.  Next to no money, of course.  Partway through the trip I
 started
hearing odd little noises, and shortly after passing through a small
town
the noises got not so odd and not so little.  Rear wheel bearing went
out.
Returned to small town to find only service station now closed.
 Decided
to press through, figured we could sleep in the car if necessary.
Bearing chewed itself to small pieces, the heat took out the brakes
(single-circuit), and the geometry change took out the parking brake.
We'd go about 15 MPH for 15 minutes, then stop for 15 minutes and
throw snow on the rear wheel until it stopped hissing.  The trip was
interminable, and definitely a strain on the relationship.  One of the
games I'd like to play in that car was to see how far I could get on my
trips without using the brakes, so I was well-practiced with a
now-needed
skill!  (The tractors on our farmlet had bad brakes, so this was
something
you needed to know how to do.)  By the time we got to the next (and
only)
big town the situation had stabilized, and we decided to continue on
(after a very late dinner) the final 30 miles.

The repair (at the Ford dealership) was actually quite reasonable.
One wheel bearing, a brake slave cylinder rebuild, and a bit of metal
or two for the park

Re: [MBZ] 240D from VA to PA, need advice..

[Kevin J. Slater]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
> Not sure if this has been completely answered yet...
>
> I live in PA and I picked up my car in Boston with a Maine title.  Have
> the owner send you the title, take it to any tag place in PA and get a
> licence plate.  Take the plate with you when you go to pick up the car.
> Put insurance on the car before you leave and take some proof of insurance
> when you go to pick up the car.  When you get back in PA you will have
> something like a month to get an inspection.  Put the temporary
> registration in the window of the car.
>
> Hope this helps,

Now we're talking! That sounds like good advice. I'll call the seller and
complete the sale so I can get the title. Thanks for chiming in.

...Kevin
87 300TD 284k mi

Re: [MBZ] need advice & A possibly entertaining story.

[Kevin J. Slater]

Part of that trip reminds me of a trip I took from State College to
Virginia Beach one night while attending Penn State. The rest of my family
was down there at a house along the beach and I wanted to join them. My
car at the time was an old Austin Marina 4 door, 4 cylinder, 4 speed.
Sometime after I left I lost the brakes or at least most of them. Since I
was driving in the very early morning during the week on mostly 2 lane
roads through the countryside, I made it without incident. REALLY STUPID,
REALLY FORTUNATE (God's grace if you ask me) and I hope my own kids are
smarter than that.

...Kevin

John Berryman said:
>
>   This is why I ship UPS, Fed-Ex, etc. I sometimes ship my luggage and
> personal effects to travel destinations and travel real light on the
> plane. I had my luggage misplaced and as a result, had to spend a
> couple of days in a hotel in New Orleans. On the airline's tab,
> meals  and drinks included.
>   This was when I bought a 300CD from Jason Stearn. It was the day
> after Christmas 2001 when I flew out, they had just started checking
> peoples shoes for explosives. I was checked. Being right after
> 9/11/01 their was a lot of tension regarding security. I knew I
> was'nt getting on the plane carrying tools and license plates. All
> legal paperwork and stickers were in there too. I NEVER, EVER
> checked luggage up to then and since. The airline delivered it to the
> hotel intact.
>   It was an adventure from the start. There was noise, sounded like
> the diff was gonna blow, it didn't change no matter how I hammered it
> so I sucked it and kept moving. I'm heading out of Baton Rouge to the
> Adirondack Region of NY (note the date). I did'nt realize that
> there's no heat until...yup, you got it. There right rear caliper
> blew. Brakes, who needs 'em?
>   I'm running all Interstates all 90-95mph until Tennessee, they'll
> tolerate 80-85 in a 75. The driver's seat is shot, BAD and there's a
> nasty winter storm coming. If I drive straight through, with no sleep
> I can miss the worst of it. Did I mention window regulator broke
> leaving  the window jammed in a cocked position? Well any way, I'll
> have some nice crisp air to help keep me awake, no time to fix, gotta
> beat the storm. Worn Michelin MXVs don't do much on snow and ice.
>   You should always behave while driving through Virginia, somehow
> this always slips my mind. The weather got uncooperative in Northern
> Va. and stayed that way for the duration of the adventure. It was a
> weak attempt at a "Wintery Mix" but still enough to keep one from
> becoming bored riding on those skins. The Norther I go the Colder and
> icier it gets. I'm getting a hint of warm air to the defroster vents
> so I had some de-icing capability and a somewhat clear area for
> forward vision most of the time.
>I- 81 through Pa was no day at the beach, the icy hilly roads are
> unforgiving and cause massive pile-ups, often with resultant
> fatalities. Those familiar can give testimony to that. Fate would
> have it, as I crest a hill I see about 1/4mile ahead that there's a
> car on its side , half on the median and two young guys who stopped
> to help. I was driving way ahead of myself and keeping the speed real
> sane but it was a real challenge to get her stopped on front brakes
> only and those lovely tires.
>   The kids waved me on saying help was on the way and no one was
> seriously injured. In my mirror, I watch a 17 car pile-up as I drive
> off, I heard the number on the news. There were two more pile-ups
> which I was able to navigate around to avoid being the next crushed car.
>   Finally I hit the NY border and settle into a good groove, only 3
> 1/2 hours from home and my Sugar Pie. Now that the Demo-Derby on ice
> is far behind me, I realize it's colder than a mother-in-laws kiss
> and my feet are numb. I stop in Binghampton for fuel and drive the
> rest of the way home with sweaters wrapped around my legs.
>   We're real generous with the salt up here and this coupe had no idea
> what she was being driven into, as she spent her rust-free life
> between SoCal and The Big Easy. She hasn't seen road salt since that
> night. The rest of the ride was relatively uneventful.
>   I got in before the brunt of the storm and awoke the next morning to
> 18" of snow. I'm always happy to be home after my many sojourns but I
> was ecstatic after this one.
>   Aside for the few mechanical inconveniences I mentioned earlier, I
> had no mechanical trouble, no need to pick up a single tool. The
> horrendous sound that I listened to, trying to ignore all the way
> home wound up being a broken tranny mount.
>
>
> Johnny B.
> I Mac Therefore I am
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/

Re: [MBZ] 240D from VA to PA, need advice..

[Kevin J. Slater]

John Berryman said:
>
> On Jun 6, 2006, at 5:24 PM, Donald Snook wrote:
>
>> Kevin S. wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> "I'm in need of some advice. I have a car I want to buy that's located
>> in Virginia.
>
>   What's the story on the car? What is it? Is it in decent shape and
> recently driven? Do you plan on buying sight unseen? Do you intend to
> whip it right into service? How many miles are you going to need to
> drive to get home?

The story on the car is that it has been sitting for almost a year. We
took a trip down to where it's sitting and started it couple of weeks ago.
Drove it around a section of private road/driveway. Everything seems to be
in good operating condition (with some minor exceptions noted in another
thread). The car was well maintained for most of it's life. I don't
anticipate any problems with it becoming a reliable daily driver. The
distance from where it sits to my place north of Pittsburgh is roughly 360
miles.


>   Maybe you can get the seller to drive it to your joint.

This is a low buck deal and would probably cost a good portion of the
purchase price.

...Kevin
87 300TD 284k mi

Re: [MBZ] 240D from VA to PA, need advice..

[Kevin J. Slater]

John Ervine said:
> John Ervine wrote:
>
>> More responsible individuals, on the other hand, tend to have better
>> things to
>> do with their time.  ;-)
>
> Forgot to add - all three trips were done sans license plates, but with
> valid
> insurance on the cars phoned in before I left.  Never had a second glance
> from
> any of the fine law enforcement personnel I encountered along the way.
> Some
> states offer temp tags, but Georgia is not one of them.  With insurance, a
> title, and a bill of sale, I felt I'd be just fine if any situation arose.

And maybe THAT'S a better approach then what I've been toying with; which
is to take the PA plate off my 87 wagon and put that on the 79 240D for
the trip back.

Complications for this retrieval are that I'm going to be in the area with
my family camping (so that rules out trailering it back since the popup
camper will be attached to the Trailblazer) and I don't want to make
another trip down there just to pick up a car. Also, the sale isn't
complete yet. I have given the seller some hand money to hold it, but I
don't have the title, etc.

...Kevin
87 300TD 284k mi

Re: [MBZ] 240D from VA to PA, need advice..

[Kevin J. Slater]

David Brodbeck said:
> Marshall Booth wrote:
>> Have you contacted PennDOT?
>>
>> I'm pretty sure there IS a way to do what you want, but I can't recall
>> what it is.
>>
>
> When I bought a car in Pennsylvania, I was able to get a temporary
> cardboard plate.  I went with the seller to the local AAA office and
> they took care of it.  They also notarized the title and bill of sale.
> One stop shopping!

That would be great, but I'm buying a car in Virginia and will be bringing
it back to Pennsylvania (travelling through the Peoples Republic of
Maryland for a short distance on the way).

...Kevin
87 300TD 284k mi

[MBZ] 240D from VA to PA, need advice..

[Kevin J. Slater]

I'm in need of some advice. I have a car I want to buy that's located in
Virginia. It's been sitting for a while so it's not inspected and it
doesn't have plates. I live in PA and I'd like to drive it back. (Towing
isn't an option b/c of other complications for this trip.) I don't think I
can get plates for it in PA since I don't have the title. I don't think I
want to try to get plates in VA since that would entail paying a bunch of
fees that I'll just have to pay again in PA.

You guys that buy a lot of cars, what do you do? Once I get it back in PA
it's an easy process to get it properly inspected, get the title
transferred and get new plates for it.

...Kevin
87 300TD 284k miles


-- 
"Thank God for Microsoft" -- Linus Torvalds

Re: [MBZ] Starting a 240D that's been sitting for a year..

[Kevin J. Slater]

David Brodbeck said:
> Kevin J. Slater wrote:
>> 1) The passenger side wiper arm is not moving, but the driver's side
>> does.
>> Is this a common issue? (I hope not expensive to fix.)
>>
>
> Haven't heard of that one on a Benz, but I've had it happen on a Volvo.
> If you're lucky maybe it's just stripped the wiper arm.  On most cars
> I've had, the wiper shaft is splined, tapered, and made of steel, while
> the wiper arm's center is very soft aluminum.  The steel shaft actually
> cuts splines into the arm when the nut is tightened.  If the arm is a
> little bit loose and the wiper gets frozen to the windshield, the arm
> will strip.  The cure is to remove the arm, clean any metal shreds out
> of the splines on the shaft, and reinstall.  Every time you do this the
> arm will sit a little lower on the taper.  If it gets to the point where
> it won't fit snugly anymore, shim with aluminum foil.  (That said, I
> don't know if Benzes use this particular arrangement.)
>
> If you're unlucky the linkage has come apart under the cowl.  It still
> might not be too hard to fix.

I suspect you've correctly diagnosed this. On the way home my son and I
were discussing this and he mentioned to me that when the wiper arm was
pulled back from the window, it did move some. That indicates to me that
the linkage under the cowl is ok and maybe the arm is just in need of
remounting. At worst possibly a new arm.

>
>> 2) The left side turn signals worked fine, when the right side turn
>> signal
>> was activated, it just buzzed from under the dash near the glove box?
>>
>
> Buzzing relays often are a symptom of a bad ground somewhere.  I'd clean
> the ground connections and bulb sockets at the fixtures.  If you've got
> one where the parking lamp or four-way flasher doesn't work, start there.
>
> Some people have also reported successfully curing turn signal problems
> by cycling the four-way flasher switch repeatedly for a while, like a
> couple hundred times.  The turn signals are routed through there and
> dirty contacts sometimes cause problems, since that switch is rarely used.

I believe the right front marker light was out as well as that turn signal
didn't work so we'll start looking there. Hopefully either just bulbs or
dirty contacts.

>> Also, we noticed that the fog lights were clear, this doesn't seem
>> typical. Comments?
>>
>
> Could be they're clear fogs, or maybe someone replaced them with driving
> lights.  Do they throw a wide, flat beam like a fog lamp, or a longer,
> more penetrating one like a driving light?
>

Bright, sunny, middle of the day lighting made this difficult to
determine. But I think we'll have a chance to check it in the coming
weeks.

...Kevin

Re: [MBZ] Starting a 240D that's been sitting for a year..

[Kevin J. Slater]

That could well be the problem. I did try to re-thread the door lock pull
knob for a minute and it didn't catch. Since we were just starting our
look at the car at that time I didn't peer down the hole in the top of the
door to see if the threaded rod was anywhere to be found.

...Kevin

Trampas said:
> The door problem could be that the metal rod for the unlock knob inside
> the
> car is stuck under the door panel keeping door locked. Use a coat hanger
> to
> free it up such that it is centered in hole then have someone unlock
> doors.
> This will allow it to pop up and you can open door. Yes I have had this
> happen more than once.
>
> Trampas
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
> Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 12:47 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Starting a 240D that's been sitting for a year..
>
>> 1) The passenger side wiper arm is not moving, but the driver's side
>> does.
>> Is this a common issue? (I hope not expensive to fix.)
>
> Not common.  Linkage popped off under the cowl?
>
>> 2) The left side turn signals worked fine, when the right side turn
>> signal
>> was activated, it just buzzed from under the dash near the glove box?
>
> All bulbs good?  How's hazard lights work?  It's all the same circuit.
>
>> 4) The passenger rear door had no interior door lock / unlock thingy
>> and
>> the door doesn't open. Apparently, manually locked and power locks
>> aren't
>> working. Any ideas on approaches to getting this door unlocked and
>> open?
>
> Pull inside handle while kicking the door open.  Hope that this works!
>
>> Also, we noticed that the fog lights were clear, this doesn't seem
>> typical. Comments?
>
> Some were clear, some were yellow.
>
> -- Jim
>

Re: [MBZ] Starting a 240D that's been sitting for a year..

[Kevin J. Slater]

To everyone that took the time to comment on my questions - Thanks. We got
it started and put some money down to hold it. It took a lot of cranking
and we had to purchase a new group 49 battery to get it going. It has the
dreaded loop glowplugs. We dropped in a clear fuel filter that I had in a
box, turns out no worries about algae yet.

It does have a few issues I'll need to address:

1) The passenger side wiper arm is not moving, but the driver's side does.
Is this a common issue? (I hope not expensive to fix.)

2) The left side turn signals worked fine, when the right side turn signal
was activated, it just buzzed from under the dash near the glove box?

3) Where do I get the loop to parallel glow plug conversion kit?
Rusty/Hursty; you have these?

4) The passenger rear door had no interior door lock / unlock thingy and
the door doesn't open. Apparently, manually locked and power locks aren't
working. Any ideas on approaches to getting this door unlocked and open?

Also, we noticed that the fog lights were clear, this doesn't seem
typical. Comments?

...Kevin
87 300TD 282k mi
79 240D soon?

Re: [MBZ] Quick fix for freewheeling fan clutch

[Kevin J. Slater]

Once again, Peter get's the gold star for the most useful information in a
thread.

So I just found out my fan clutch is shot, which I suspected, but wasn't
sure how to test. I recall a while back that Joe had a method for adding
silicone oil back into an empty fan clutch? Is that method detailed
anywhere?

...Kevin
87 300TD 282k mi

Peter Frederick said:
> Actually, the MB test for the fan clutch is even easier -- with engine
> hot (so the clutch should be engaged), shut the engine off.  If the fan
> rotates more than a single revolution more after the engine stops, the
> clutch is bad (i.e. out of fluid).
>
> Sitting more than a couple minutes, it will ALWAYS be stiff to turn
> unless out of fluid-- the clutch works by filling a slot with high
> viscosity silicone oil to drag the fan blade.  The fluid drains into
> the slot with the engine off, so the fan will drag cold and after
> sitting.  This a good way to tell if the fluid has all leaked out,
> though -- if the fan spins freely cold, the clutch is shot.
> Unfortunately, it can drag cold but not work if the bimetallic spring
> is stuck or no longer "springs" as the temp changes so that the fluid
> is not directed into the slot.
>
> It should also roar and move a lot of air for a few seconds when first
> started, then go quiet.  When engaged, it should also roar and move
> large quantities of air.
>
> Easy to tell in my old Volvo, as the fan sounds like a jet engine, but
> not so obvious on a Benz.
>
> Peter

[MBZ] Starting a 240D that's been sitting for a year..

[Kevin J. Slater]

Dieslers,

it would seem that my 16 y/o son with his newly minted driver's license
have an adventure lined up for this weekend. We've been made aware of a
1979 240D with an owner that would like to move it. The car has been
sitting for a year and hasn't been started in that timeframe. I don't know
whether it has serial or parallel plugs. I've been told it has no major
mechanical problems.

So the questions:

1) What plan of attack should I take in getting it started? Hints? Things
not to do? Think to do? (I know not to use ether for example.)

2) If anyone is familiar with the DMV regulations in VA, what are the
requirements for buying and transporting a car out of state? Obviously,
this assumes driving it away; putting it on a trailer is a known quantity.

...Kevin
'87 300D 282k mi

Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD cooling problems redux

[Kevin J. Slater]

Dave (and the others that responded),

Typical Mercedes thing. Take the fan off the clutch and it's possible,
though hard to remove. Separated, it's impossible to replace without
removing the radiator. Put it back on the clutch and it's possible to
replace; and I didn't even buy the custom tools.

Thanks for the help Dave.

...Kevin

Dave M. said:
> Kevin,
>
> It sounds like you are trying to mount the clutch to the water pump,
> then attach the fan blade separately? That would be awfully hard, if
> not impossible. The blade and clutch should stay attached. You install
> the water pump by itself, then drop the clutch+fan down the front and
> bolt it on with the single 8mm Allen-head bolt. This is very, very
> hard to do with the radiator in place if you don't have the bolt
> spinner tool, and the stubby socket. You've got two options:
>
> 1) Pull the radiator. It will be easier in the long run, and gives you
> an excuse to blow the radiator & condenser fins out with compressed
> air.
>
> 2) Buy the stubby socket and fabricate the spinner tool. Photos are here:
> http://www.w124performance.com/images/tools/OM60x_serp_belt_tools.jpg
>
>
> With the correct tools (shown in the photo above), I can have the fan
> + clutch removed in literally less than 5 minutes. It's worth the tool
> cost for the time savings if you own a 124/603 and do your own work...
>
> :-)
>
> -dm
>
>
>> --
>> Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2006 09:21:22 -0400 (EDT)
>> From: "Kevin J. Slater" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD cooling problems redux
>>
>>
>> Ok, last night I replace the old water pump with a shiny new (Geba) one
>> from Rusty. When I was disassebmling I had a heck of a time getting the
>> metal fan past the viscous clutch on the front of the water pump. I was
>> able to get it past with a little bit of wiggle and force.
>>
>> The same can't be said for the reassembly. I can't see how it's possible
>> to get the fan back on the front of the viscous clutch without removing
>> the radiator. (Which I was trying to avoid.)
>>
>> Anyone been there and done that and have a clue for me before I bite the
>> bullet and pull the radiator tonight?
>>
>> ...Kevin
>> 87 300TD 283k mi (and holding)
>
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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD cooling problems redux

[Kevin J. Slater]

Ok, last night I replace the old water pump with a shiny new (Geba) one
from Rusty. When I was disassebmling I had a heck of a time getting the
metal fan past the viscous clutch on the front of the water pump. I was
able to get it past with a little bit of wiggle and force.

The same can't be said for the reassembly. I can't see how it's possible
to get the fan back on the front of the viscous clutch without removing
the radiator. (Which I was trying to avoid.)

Anyone been there and done that and have a clue for me before I bite the
bullet and pull the radiator tonight?

...Kevin
87 300TD 283k mi (and holding)

Kevin J. Slater said:
> Well, when it rains it pours.
>
> I put the 87 300TD up on the ramps Saturday and removed the sound sheild
> after seeing a small puddle of coolant under the car. (My wife says that
> she noticed a puddle the other day as well and neglected to tell me
> about it.) After having a look at various hoses and connections
> underneath and up top, nothing looked bad or appeared to be leaking.
>
> I started the engine and immediately saw a trickle / dribbling of
> coolant from around the bottom of the alternator bracket. It looked to
> be coming out from behind where it attaches to the block. It wasn't the
> hose that attaches to the side of the engine where the thermostat is,
> nor was it from the thermostat housing itself. In short, I couldn't spot
> the leak, but it's definately there and a concern. Could this be the
> water pump failing? Anything else I should consider before ordering a
> new water pump and tearing into the area of the leak?
>
> ...Kevin
> 87 300TD 283k mi.
>
>
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[MBZ] Why no 320CDI choice for the new GL?

[Kevin J. Slater]

I don't get MB. You'd think they'd start putting diesel engines in more
cars. I know that folks who buy a new MB can usually afford to put
gasoline in the tank, but at the same time, there must be a large cross
section that would like to be able to say they get really good mileage in
their new XX class MB. Donchathink?

...Kevin
87 300TD 283k mi


-- 
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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD cooling problems redux

[Kevin J. Slater]

Jim, Casey, Dave, Tan, Johnny, (anyone I missed)

Thanks for the answers. I figured the pump was the suspect, but it's
always good to go to the list for confirmation. There is a wealth of
knowledge here on the list and I'm just happy to be along for the ride.

...Kevin
87 300TD 283k mi

Dave M. said:
> It's either the water pump, or something related the water pump
> housing, which is a separate item from the block. The water pump and
> the t-stat cover both attach to this housing. Photo below:
>
>
> <http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_timing_cover/engine_stand3.jpg>
>
> <http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_exhaust/thermo-tec4.jpg>
>
> Here's a photo of Casey's new housing:
> <http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/MB%20Repairs/H2O-pump%20housing-front.jpg>
>
>
>
> --
> Dave M.
> Boise, ID
> 1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
> 1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)
>
>
>> --
>> Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 07:51:02 -0400
>> From: "Kevin J. Slater" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> Subject: [MBZ] 87 300TD cooling problems redux
>>
>>
>> Well, when it rains it pours.
>>
>> I put the 87 300TD up on the ramps Saturday and removed the sound sheild
>> after seeing a small puddle of coolant under the car. (My wife says that
>> she noticed a puddle the other day as well and neglected to tell me
>> about it.) After having a look at various hoses and connections
>> underneath and up top, nothing looked bad or appeared to be leaking.
>>
>> I started the engine and immediately saw a trickle / dribbling of
>> coolant from around the bottom of the alternator bracket. It looked to
>> be coming out from behind where it attaches to the block. It wasn't the
>> hose that attaches to the side of the engine where the thermostat is,
>> nor was it from the thermostat housing itself. In short, I couldn't spot
>> the leak, but it's definately there and a concern. Could this be the
>> water pump failing? Anything else I should consider before ordering a
>> new water pump and tearing into the area of the leak?
>>
>> ...Kevin
>> 87 300TD 283k mi.
>
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>
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[MBZ] Harbor Freight R-134 guages?

[Kevin J. Slater]

I have 3 cars which have R-134 systems in some sort of state of charge. 
Is it worth it to get an inexpensive set of guages to help me determine 
the health of the systems? Only 1 of the 3 vehicles would merit serious 
repair and even that is somewhat of a question at this point.


Does anyone have a pointer to a general R-134 A/C system checkup / howto?

...Kevin
87 300TD 283k mi

Re: [MBZ] Cooling problem with my 87 300TD

[Kevin J. Slater]

Marshall Booth wrote:

Kevin J. Slater wrote:

Ok, maybe I misstated what I did. I'll pulled the connector from the 
temperature switch on the thermostat housing and I shorted the 
sockets that connect to the pins on the temp sensor. This made the 
fan kick on. Are you saying it shouldn't have?


If shorting the pins produces fan action (that shows that the relay 
and fan are working) then the temp sensor isn't closing when it gets 
hot and that suggests the sensor/switch is BAD. All of the engine 
compartment temp sensors or sensors/switches are touchy about getting 
wet or being soaked with cleaners. They often fail following a good 
engine cleaning if you haven't shielded them.


The fan should only operate at low speed IF the AC system high side 
pressure reaches 250-280 psi and that may take 5-10 minutes or even 
NEVER happen on a day when temps are much below 75-80 deg. F.


Marshall


Ok, I know that I need to order a new switch. Which I'll do once I 
finish entering some tax data.


I think I caused at least part of the cooling issue by leaving out part 
of the fan shroud the last time I was working in that area. It's the 
part that extends the shroud out towards the fan itself and, knowing a 
small amount about aerodynamics, I'm sure it's quite important to the 
flow of air through the radiator. Things are better now, but I still 
need to see what else I need to do.


Thanks to all for the help.

...Kevin
87 300TD 283k mi

Re: [MBZ] Cooling problem with my 87 300TD

[Kevin J. Slater]

Andrew,

thanks for the offer. I need to get this and a bunch of other stuff that
I've been saving up for a Rusty order. If I wasn't concerned about getting
this in a hurry I'd take you up on the offer.

...Kevin

andrew strasfogel said:
> I have a temp. switch really cheep if that's what you need.
>
> On 4/11/06, Alex Chamberlain <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> On 4/11/06, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> > Replace the temp switch if shorting it makes the fan run! When the AC
>> > turns on and pressure rises to 250-280 psi, the fan should also run at
>> > slower speed (unless the big resistor is burned out).
>> >
>> > I've attached an electrical diagram of the circuit (will be stripped
>> > from the list copy).
>> >
>>
>> Hmm, interesting!  I have the ETM but somehow I never looked at that
>> page
>> before.  My aux fan definitely comes on at full blast when coolant temp
>> gets
>> high, but I've never observed it to come on at *low* speed (although I
>> guess
>> I could have missed it since there would be other simultanous
>> A/C-related
>> noises masking it).  How common is it for R15 to burn out?  Where's it
>> located and what value is it supposed to be?  (My VOM finger is already
>> itching.)  And which relay in the fusebox is K10, the "auxiliary fan
>> preresistor relay"?  I seem to recall that nothing back there is labeled
>> and
>> all the relays look the same.  (But I'd love to test that little critter
>> too.)
>>
>> Alex Chamberlain
>> '87 300D Turbo
>> '93 Isuzu Trooper
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Cooling problem with my 87 300TD

[Kevin J. Slater]

On Tue, 11 Apr 2006, Marshall Booth wrote:

> Kevin J. Slater wrote:
> > Folks,
> > 
> > I have a few problems with my 1987 300TD and I could really use some list
> > wisdom tracking them down.
> > 
> > Last night, with the key in the run position, I shorted the pins on the
> > temperature sensor on thermostat housing and the fan came on as it should.
> > (Didn't sound great, but it hasn't run in months either.) I did the same
> > with the pins on the high pressure switch and again the fan ran as
> > expected.
> > 
> > A couple of other datapoints: 1) the car has had the #14 head replaced (by
> > me) with a #17. 2) I don't have any coolant in the oil or oil in the
> > coolant problems. 3) previous owner was a hack and I think the aux fan
> > resistor is missing, or maybe I don't know where to find it. 4) my viscous
> > clutch for the rad fan is probably mostly dead.
> > 
> > What diagnosis do I need to do to find why the aux fan isn't running?
> > Eventhough this might not be the only problem, I think if it was working
> > correctly, I'd get some relief from those high coolant temps in stop and
> > go traffic. I know the aux fan used to come on at times when the a/c was
> > on and I was pulling into the garage b/c I would hear it as I pulled in.
> > 
> > ...Kevin (Slater, Mars, PA - Marshall I'm extra-signing for you and I'll
> > come and cut your grass if you help me out!)
> > 
> > 87 300TD 282k miles
> 
> Replace the temp switch if shorting it makes the fan run! When the AC 
> turns on and pressure rises to 250-280 psi, the fan should also run at 
> slower speed (unless the big resistor is burned out).
> 
> I've attached an electrical diagram of the circuit (will be stripped 
> from the list copy).
> 
> Marshall
> 

Ok, maybe I misstated what I did. I'll pulled the connector from the 
temperature switch on the thermostat housing and I shorted the sockets 
that connect to the pins on the temp sensor. This made the fan kick on. 
Are you saying it shouldn't have?

...Kevin
Mars, PA
87 300TD 282k mi

[MBZ] Cooling problem with my 87 300TD

[Kevin J. Slater]

Folks,

I have a few problems with my 1987 300TD and I could really use some list
wisdom tracking them down.

The foremost, and the one I've forgotten about since the last warm days of
last fall, is that my auxillary fan never comes on. On the way home from
work last evening (outside temperature around 68 degrees F) after I got
off the highway and was making my way through some local lights, the
temperature gauge went about 110 (probably over 115) and no aux fan. I
made it home without incident and decided to check out what I could.

Last night, with the key in the run position, I shorted the pins on the
temperature sensor on thermostat housing and the fan came on as it should.
(Didn't sound great, but it hasn't run in months either.) I did the same
with the pins on the high pressure switch and again the fan ran as
expected.

A couple of other datapoints: 1) the car has had the #14 head replaced (by
me) with a #17. 2) I don't have any coolant in the oil or oil in the
coolant problems. 3) previous owner was a hack and I think the aux fan
resistor is missing, or maybe I don't know where to find it. 4) my viscous
clutch for the rad fan is probably mostly dead.

What diagnosis do I need to do to find why the aux fan isn't running?
Eventhough this might not be the only problem, I think if it was working
correctly, I'd get some relief from those high coolant temps in stop and
go traffic. I know the aux fan used to come on at times when the a/c was
on and I was pulling into the garage b/c I would hear it as I pulled in.

...Kevin (Slater, Mars, PA - Marshall I'm extra-signing for you and I'll
come and cut your grass if you help me out!)

87 300TD 282k miles

Re: [MBZ] Project 240D in Oregon

[Kevin J. Slater]

Page comes back to me as mime type text/plain. Not sure if it's on my end
(proxy) or on yours. I assume most of folks on this list use IE to view
your pages. I'm using Firefox 1.5 FWIW..

...Kevin

Jim Cathey said:
> Drum roll please.
>
> For sale, 1979 240D.  302kmi, auxiliary fuel tank.  Perfect
> for biodiesel operation, has 1000 mile range.
>
> Not perfect, but looks pretty good.  Rust-free.  Reluctant
> cold-starter, but has started every time for me so far.
> Very clean inside, you can date with this car and not be
> ashamed.
>
> $2500  See http://cathey.dogear.com/mb240dsale.html for
> pictures and more information.
>
> OK, I don't expect you guys to buy it, I'm planning to list it
> on nearby Craigs lists to start, especially in Seattle.  But I'd
> appreciate feedback on the web site, etc.
>
> I'm planning to redo the pictures if I can get a nice overcast
> day while it's still clean.  The hazy sun resulted in pictures that
> are much more washed-out looking than the car deserves.  Also need
> to get an engine compartment shot, I seem to have forgotten that one.
>
> -- Jim
>
>
> ___
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Re: [MBZ] Parts 92 300TE in MA

[Kevin J. Slater]

I've considered picking it up just to have parts from. I sort of have a
place to store it. If it was really nice and complete inside, it would
probably mean I'd part out the 87 instead. All of this is probably just
dreaming as the wife has a long list of things that would be in front of
any such adventure..

...Kevin

Jeff Zedic said:
> If you pick that car up I'd like the taillights!
>
> Jeff Zedic
> Toronto
> 87 300TD
>
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Re: [MBZ] Parts 92 300TE in MA

[Kevin J. Slater]

Wow, that's really tempting. How hard to take my 300TD drive train and fit
it to that 92 chassis? Might have to call on it for the int/ext colors.
It's about 25 minutes from my sister's place in Braintree..

...Kevin
87 300TD 282k mi

Frederick Moir said:
> Hi, All.
>   Ad reads:- 1992 Mercedes 300IE WGN. Vy gd body & int. New catalytic
> converter, new snow tires,cracked oil pan & front susp. damaged. Have
> title. $600.
>   (Cohasset) 781-383-2345.
>   No Affiliation etc.
>   Body parts for the TD's out there?
>   Fred Moir
>   Lynn MA
>   Dieselitis Horribilis
>
>
> -
> New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular phones from your PC and save
> big.
> ___
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[MBZ] OT: 300E stalling intermittently..

[Kevin J. Slater]

Kind and Knowledgable List Members,

My Mom has my brother's old 1987 300E. It's in pretty good shape overall
and I've been helping to care for it since she took posession about a 1
1/2 years back.

Lately, she's been telling me that it stalls every once in a while. It
usually happens when she's either idling or creeping along slowly but
after the cars been running for some time. (It happened to her most
recently at a turn pike easy pass drive thru; she slowed to about 5 mph
after driving at speed for about 25 minutes and it stalled on her.)

I took the car for a test drive with her and sure enough it happened to me
too. After we drove around my neighborhood for about 15 minutes, I was
coasting downhill to a stop sign. As I went to pull away, it just died. No
sputtering or anything like that, almost like the spark was removed.

A while back she was having trouble with the car's performance (lack of
power and very poor fuel economy) and I replaced the rotor arm and rotor
cap. I don't recall replacing the plug wires, but I examined them after
coming back from the test drive and they're pretty good looking, so they
can't be very old. I pulled a spark plug and it looked like a well
functioning plug should.

Any ideas where to begin? I seem to recall that the car has about 160k
miles on the clock.

...Kevin

Re: [MBZ] 240D

[Kevin J. Slater]

Jim,

I'm way down in western PA, but my 16 y/o son almost has his license and
he'd actually like a 240D! Do you still have it and can you give me some
particulars?

...Kevin

Jim Keefe said:
> Can't keep 3 cars!  This 240D is now $500.  It's in central  MA, runs
> well,
> doesn't like cold weather.  Has a little rust, otherwise good body, dark
> blue, 1982 with 160K miles.
> [EMAIL PROTECTED],com
>
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] taking the bull by the horns - 87 300TD head gasket

[Kevin J. Slater]

Chris,

if you want to talk about this job at any point; including when you're in
the middle of it up to your neck, I'll be happy to chat with you. (Either
online or via the phone.) Just drop me a line and I'll send you my home
phone. I did this job myself last year. (And it turned out to be a cracked
head, but I pretty much knew it going into the job.)

...Kevin
87 300TD 282k mi

Christopher McCann said:
> Won't bet either way, we'll have to see. I still don't think it is, esp
> since the gaskets tend to fail behind cylinder # 6 in the exact spot  mine
> has failed. THe failed gasket is new (the failure is new, not the  gasket)
> and it did not overheat since. BUT, I would not be shocked if  it were.
> Part of the big excitement!
>
>   Chris
>
>
> "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  I can almost guarantee
> your head is cracked, 90% chance it is.
>
> Christopher McCann wrote:
>
>>  IF the head is cracked, which I doubt, but realize it is VERY POSSIBLE,
>>  I will get a new one and we'll get the valve job done, etc. Charlie
>> has  done all this several times before. The TD will be "beached" in
>> the  driveway for a while till I get a good head, but that's OK. I can
>> ride  my bike the entire 6 blocks to work and wifey can drive the SD.
>> My Indy  offered Charlie a job, he knows what he is doing (and he's
>> psyched  about the OkieQ this year - a MOPAR convert to diesel Benzes).
>>
>>   Kaleb, you just want me to give up and sell the car for $500! :-)
>>
>>   Thanks to all for advice and for the relevant job descriptions.
>>
>>  Oh, I know I need more than a head gasket. I ordered everything I will
>> need. They come in sets, ya know: head gasket set and valve cover set.
>>
>>   Tchüß!
>>
>>   Chris
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>   90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
>   84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
>   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
> http://www.striplin.net
>
> ___
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>
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>
>
>
> Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
> -2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
> -1987 300TD, 151K, "Rotkäppchen"
> -1985 300SD, 212K, "Wulf"
> -1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
> -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"
>
> -
> Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+
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>
>


-- 
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Re: [MBZ] FS: W124 Euro light lenses - new

[Kevin J. Slater]

How much Dave? I have TYC lights on my wagon. (Wanted to get Hellas or
Bosch, but the financial situation at the time wouldn't support it.)

...Kevin
87 300TD

Dave M. said:
> Hi all,
>
> I found a pair of new lenses floating around my shop that I don't
> need. They are TYC brand, in original boxes, and will fit all Euro
> lights. They're the 1994/95 style but will fit 86-95 cars. No, they
> won't fit DOT lights. They look like this (this is an old photo of my
> car with a set if lights that are now gone):
>
> 
>
> You guys have first crack at them, next they're posted on the forums,
> then off to eBay...
>
> :-)
>
> --
> Dave M.
> Boise, ID
> 1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
> 1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)
>
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>
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>


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[MBZ] 1996 300D for sale in Pittsburgh area..

[Kevin J. Slater]

Saw an ad by a private(?) owner in the (PG) Sunday classifieds for a 1996
300D. I think the asking price was under 9k. I can get the phone number
and the specifics if anyone likes.

...Kevin
87 300TD 280k mi

Re: [MBZ] Motor Oil Saver

[Kevin J. Slater]

Brother, YOU are on a ROLL this morning!

...Kevin

Curt Raymond said:
> This is an oil thread, and you're doomed.
>   I for one believe that most oil additives are snake oil. In fact most of
> them are just viscosity enhancers, you could do the same thing by moving
> to heavier oil. I don't think thats what this stuff is, I think this is
> a cleaner and seal rejuvenator. I agree with an earlier poster who
> speculated that Rusty had gummed up rings. Maybe this stuff helped
> loosen them up.
>
>   Most people don't use Mobil 1 because its expensive and they have no
> idea how long they can run it to recoup the extra cost. Most people have
> no idea about oil analysis and the advantages of having their oil tested
> for a variety of reasons other than just extended oil changes. Quite
> frankly most people are idiots. Think for a second about how dumb
> average American is and then remember that half the people are dumber
> than that... Then remember that we're all dumb about something and you
> realize its amazing that the world has gone on this long.
>
>   -Curt
>
>   Date: Thu, 09 Feb 2006 18:41:08 -0700
> From: "Brian Chase" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Motor Oil Saver
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
>
> You know, I gotta say that I have long wondered if I should be using
> one of
> these oil additives. They sound so great. (Like ProLong, Slick 50, and
> the
> like. There's one that I'm forgetting, the infomercial for which I just
> love
> - has me convinced ever time). I just wish I could try them out on
> someone
> else's vehicle. Seems like there has to be a catch. Sort of like
> switching
> to Mobil 1. It's like, if it was so beneficial, why isn't everyone
> doing it?
>
> My wife's Honda CRV makes tapping noises every time it's started up.
> Makes
> me want to have something in there to keep things coated. And if I
> could
> extend the life of my old cars, I'd sure do it. Just wonder about the
> side
> effects, e.g. you put this stuff in your engine or tranny and half a
> year
> later something goes caput, leaving you to wonder if it would've
> happened
> had you not made that choice.
>
> Note: this is technically not an oil thread, so I cannot be
> excommunicated.
>
> Brian
> 83 240D
>
>
>
>
> -
>  Yahoo! Mail
>  Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments.
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
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"Thank God for Microsoft" -- Linus Torvalds

[MBZ] OT: 190E questions

[Kevin J. Slater]

My son is itching to get a vehicle to cal his own. He has found a local
guy selling an 1989 190E. What are things to look for and look out for.
I wish it was a 190D, but it's a gasser. I had a 300E (1986) that was
totalled (by a driver piling into someone who piled into me), so I know
a bit about the M103. What were the engine options in a 190E in '89? Is
this going to be a destroked M103 in this beast? Any advice or warnings
appreciated.

...Kevin
87 300TD 282k mi

Re: [MBZ] sun roof removal (W124)

[Kevin J. Slater]

Way cool Dave! My mom's 300E needs to have some sunroof work. It's a bit
cockeyed in the lift position. I didn't want to tackle in the past given
Marshall's prudent, dire warnings. But if you have pictures and with the
expanded PDF instructions I might try it after all.

...Kevin

Dave M. said:
> Hi Constantine,
>
> The funky looking Vise-Grip pliers are not really needed. They are to
> get the roof fully seated forward before tightening the bolts. The two
> little plastic install guides are needed, but they're cheap - $1 each.
> And, they take the place of the 'self-made' L-shaped pin mentioned in
> one of the procedures.
>
> I got the sunroof completely repaired, it works GREAT now. Not nearly
> as hard as expected. The worst part is trying to disassemble it when
> it's frozen shut. Once you're past that, it's just a matter of
> following directions in the manual. I'll be posting more info shortly,
> with a bunch of photos.
>
> :)
>
> -Dave M.
>
>> --
>> Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2006 17:27:02 -0500
>> From: "Constantine N. Polites" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> Subject: [MBZ] sun roof removal
>>
>>
>> Do you need the special tool ( illustrated)  to perform the job?
>>
>> Constantine
>
> ___
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Columbus CL 240D

[Kevin J. Slater]

Been looking for something for my son. You think he'd take $500? Is it in
drive off condition? As in it could drive home to western Pa?

...Kevin

Sunil Hari said:
> http://columbus.craigslist.org/car/128430265.html
>
> Car is a TPS on the inside, and butchered (dirty interior, Kenwood CD
> player
> and visible speaker wires), but it has a stick shift and manual roof.
> I've
> driven it and it's actually solid.  He want's $1200, but methinks it's a
> Kaleb-car.
>
> Any takers?
>
> --
> Sunil Hari
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 513-205-7474
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Re: [MBZ] Sprinter Registration...

[Kevin J. Slater]

My bet would be it would be registered as it was sold originally, Dodge,
Freightliner or Mercedes; but Mercedes isn't selling them in the US,
right?

The do-dads are just that, external emblems. You don't think all those
boy-racers that put a big R in their Civic's back window get to register
them as Acura's, do you?  ;-)

...Kevin

Christopher McCann said:
> So does a Sprinter get registered as a Dodge,  Freightliner or Merc? What
> if all the Dodge "do-dads" are gone and  replaced with stars? (kit's about
> $250, grille, badges, wheel caps,  steering wheel emblem, everything)
>
>
>
>
> Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
> -2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
> -1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, "Nanook"
> -1987 300TD, 151K, "Rotkäppchen"
> -1985 300SD, 211K, "Wulf"
> -1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
> -1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
> -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"
>
> -
> Yahoo! Photos
>  Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays,
> whatever.
> ___
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>
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>
>


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Re: [MBZ] Columbus CL 240D

[Kevin J. Slater]

I'm in the market for a w123 for my almost licensed son. Columbus is an
easy enough drive. If you could have a look for us, that would be great!

...Kevin

Sunil Hari said:
> does anyone want me to take a look at this car?
>
> On 1/18/06, Brian Chase <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> Sort of contradictory to say that the engine needed replacing after
>> 150k,
>> but these engines run forever. I ran into this claim about my 240D when
>> I
>> bought it. What up???
>>
>> Brian
>> 83 240D
>>
>> >From: Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >Subject: Re: [MBZ] Columbus CL 240D
>> >Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 18:55:32 -0500
>> >
>> >Rick Knoble wrote:
>> > >
>> > > http://columbus.craigslist.org/car/126140059.html
>> >
>> >Hey Sunil!
>> >
>> >What is that, parchment seats and palamino door panels?
>> >
>> >___
>> >http://www.striplin.net
>> >For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> >For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> >
>> >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>>
>> _
>> Don't just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
>> http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
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>>
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>> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Sunil Hari
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 513-205-7474
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
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>


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Re: [MBZ] who here has a carfax account?

[Kevin J. Slater]

Kleb,

here's a link to the report: carfax report 



...Kevin

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


here is the vin:

WDB1230281A006171

Thanks,

Kaleb

Lee Levitt wrote:

 


Kaleb,

I've got a carfax account for another couple of days...

Lee 



   


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin

Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 1:03 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: [MBZ] who here has a carfax account?

IF so, let me know, I need a vin run thru carfax.  The 
service I use wont do euro vins but carfax will.

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net

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Re: [MBZ] Looking for a W123 for new driver in the family..

[Kevin J. Slater]

Thanks Lt Don, both for the translation AND the answer..

...Kevin

OK Don wrote:


The Frapper Benzbunch puts him in Mars, PA.

On 1/12/06, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
 


Whence cometh though?

--R

Kevin J. Slater wrote:
   



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, '87 300SDL 290K,  '81 240D 173K,  '78 450SLC 67K, '97
Ply Grand Voyager 78K

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[MBZ] Looking for a W123 for new driver in the family..

[Kevin J. Slater]

Dieslers,

I'm looking for a W123 (preferrably a 240D) for my 16 y/o son. He's
actually requesting it be a Mercedes. (I think he wrote a 240D into a
novel he wrote - haven't read it myself yet..)

In any case, he can't drive on his own until late spring when he's able to
take his test so I'm not in a great rush. I'd consider travelling somewhat
to find one, but I don't want to go more than about a 1/2 day's drive.

...Kevin
87 300TD
82 300D RIP


-- 
"Thank God for Microsoft" -- Linus Torvalds

[MBZ] Lunch walk double take..

[Kevin J. Slater]

Just strolled by a black 320 CDI in the little town that I work in. I saw
the CDI and thought a second before turning back to look a second time.
Yep a new E class diesel. Was parked along the street. I'll bet few
realize it's a diesel..

...Kevin

-- 
"Thank God for Microsoft" -- Linus Torvalds