Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

2012-03-24 Thread Dwight Giles
Curt,
I hate to tell you but it was always a probelm on the filter on that 78. We
tried rubber and once we finally got a copper washer to work. We tried a
range of torque settings too.
Dwight

On Wed, Mar 21, 2012 at 6:10 PM, Curt Raymond  wrote:

> Hey,
>
> My '78 240D tends to eat the aluminum washer on the hollow bolt for the
> canister fuel filter. Last time I replaced it I snagged the one from my '83
> 240D. I'm wanting to do a diesel purge and filter and figured to get a
> spare washer in case this one leaked after the replacement but Rusty tells
> me they're NA, that theres a rubber seal ring instead. Anybody else have
> this trouble? Anybody try a dealer? Is the rubber ring a suitable
> replacement? Anybody ever anneal an aluminum washer?
>
> -Curt
>
> ___
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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

2012-03-23 Thread Fmiser
> Curt Raymond wrote:

> This is good information. I'm going to order one of the new
> type from Rusty but will hold it in reserve and try to anneal
> what I have.
> 
> I *think* my IR thermometer goes to 799F so it seems like I
> should be able to get in the right range using it and my
> plumbers torch if I'm careful.

Getting an accurate reading from a shiny, non-black surface with
an IR thermometer can be iffy.

> I've annealed copper washers a couple times now with good
> results.

Copper is easy 'cause it doesn't melt before it glows. *grin*

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

2012-03-23 Thread Curt Raymond
This is good information. I'm going to order one of the new type from Rusty but 
will hold it in reserve and try to anneal what I have.

I *think* my IR thermometer goes to 799F so it seems like I should be able to 
get in the right range using it and my plumbers torch if I'm careful. I've 
annealed copper washers a couple times now with good results.

-Curt

Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2012 00:06:50 -0500
From: Fmiser 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer
Message-ID: <20120322000650.73899f42.fmi...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

> G Mann wrote:

> 2. Placed the washer /safety wire [with a handle of wire about
> 8 inches long] over a gas stove burner and heated the washer
> while turning it to heat both sides of the flats until
> the .032 stainless wire just started to show some redness from
> heat.

That's a bit hot.  Iron begins glowing at about 550C (1022F),
and aluminum melts about 660C (1220F).  400C (750F) is a good
target for Aluminum.  

I did some web searching for a good way to indicate a surface
temp of 340C (650F) to 400C (750F).  A Sharpie marker is
supposed to burn off about that temperature, but one site said
only if it wasn't a fresh mark.  Another suggestion was apply
soap and watch for it turns black.

The most accurate would be a temperature indicating stick.
http://www.tempil.com/products/tempilstik-original/
Probably overkill for annealing a washer!

> 3. Quenched the washer under the kitchen faucet [cold tap].
> You should get a nice "PSssh}

Annealing of copper, brass, and aluminum is not generally
affected by the speed of the cooling.  So quench if you want,
or air cool, or whatever suits your fancy.  Ferrous metals
(iron and steel) _must_ be cooled slowly to anneal.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

2012-03-22 Thread G Mann
All good points. If you have a tray of 100 pieces, and a lab oven with
digital control, you could do a very precise job of annealing the washers.

This is a down and dirty, "Get'er Done" and "close is good enough" way of
doing it.
As stated, "it ain't brain surgery" it's just "stop the leak with what you
got" time.

Caution: If you melt the washer, you are out of a working car.

Bottom line: Call "Q" and stock up on what ever replaces them.

On Wed, Mar 21, 2012 at 10:06 PM, Fmiser  wrote:

> > G Mann wrote:
>
> > 2. Placed the washer /safety wire [with a handle of wire about
> > 8 inches long] over a gas stove burner and heated the washer
> > while turning it to heat both sides of the flats until
> > the .032 stainless wire just started to show some redness from
> > heat.
>
> That's a bit hot.  Iron begins glowing at about 550C (1022F),
> and aluminum melts about 660C (1220F).  400C (750F) is a good
> target for Aluminum.
>
> I did some web searching for a good way to indicate a surface
> temp of 340C (650F) to 400C (750F).  A Sharpie marker is
> supposed to burn off about that temperature, but one site said
> only if it wasn't a fresh mark.  Another suggestion was apply
> soap and watch for it turns black.
>
> The most accurate would be a temperature indicating stick.
> http://www.tempil.com/products/tempilstik-original/
> Probably overkill for annealing a washer!
>
> > 3. Quenched the washer under the kitchen faucet [cold tap].
> > You should get a nice "PSssh}
>
> Annealing of copper, brass, and aluminum is not generally
> affected by the speed of the cooling.  So quench if you want,
> or air cool, or whatever suits your fancy.  Ferrous metals
> (iron and steel) _must_ be cooled slowly to anneal.
>
> --   Philip
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

2012-03-21 Thread Fmiser
> G Mann wrote:

> 2. Placed the washer /safety wire [with a handle of wire about
> 8 inches long] over a gas stove burner and heated the washer
> while turning it to heat both sides of the flats until
> the .032 stainless wire just started to show some redness from
> heat.

That's a bit hot.  Iron begins glowing at about 550C (1022F),
and aluminum melts about 660C (1220F).  400C (750F) is a good
target for Aluminum.  

I did some web searching for a good way to indicate a surface
temp of 340C (650F) to 400C (750F).  A Sharpie marker is
supposed to burn off about that temperature, but one site said
only if it wasn't a fresh mark.  Another suggestion was apply
soap and watch for it turns black.

The most accurate would be a temperature indicating stick.
http://www.tempil.com/products/tempilstik-original/
Probably overkill for annealing a washer!

> 3. Quenched the washer under the kitchen faucet [cold tap].
> You should get a nice "PSssh}

Annealing of copper, brass, and aluminum is not generally
affected by the speed of the cooling.  So quench if you want,
or air cool, or whatever suits your fancy.  Ferrous metals
(iron and steel) _must_ be cooled slowly to anneal.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

2012-03-21 Thread G Mann
Just had the same problem on an 82 300 TD when I replaced the filter.
Removed and super cleaned the surfaces and the washer to be sure I had not
"created the problem" with foreign material, found none, re-torqued and
still leaked.

Removed the aluminum washer and annealed it, then a quench it in cold
water.  The anneal worked, upon torque the washer seal gave no leak.

To anneal the washer, I did this:

1. Made a washer holder from stainless safety wire, .032, which held the
washer flat like a frying pan with minimum contact from the safety wire
[it's not brain surgery after all.. so be inventive]
2. Placed the washer /safety wire [with a handle of wire about 8 inches
long] over a gas stove burner and heated the washer while turning it to
heat both sides of the flats until the .032 stainless wire just started to
show some redness from heat.
3. Quenched the washer under the kitchen faucet [cold tap]. You should get
a nice "PSssh}
4. Washer is now Annealed. install it like a new one.

Grant...

On Wed, Mar 21, 2012 at 3:10 PM, Curt Raymond  wrote:

> Hey,
>
> My '78 240D tends to eat the aluminum washer on the hollow bolt for the
> canister fuel filter. Last time I replaced it I snagged the one from my '83
> 240D. I'm wanting to do a diesel purge and filter and figured to get a
> spare washer in case this one leaked after the replacement but Rusty tells
> me they're NA, that theres a rubber seal ring instead. Anybody else have
> this trouble? Anybody try a dealer? Is the rubber ring a suitable
> replacement? Anybody ever anneal an aluminum washer?
>
> -Curt
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

2012-03-21 Thread Curt Raymond
Egads, sounds like it might be time for a call to the classic center. Wish I 
had an excuse to swing by again...

-Curt

Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 19:00:28 -0400
From: "Scott Ritchey" 
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer
Message-ID: <8280896AB68042FA8578892638D67DB3@ScottPC>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"

Just my experience:  

I too was unable to source the alum washer from stealer.  My 83SD has the
alum washer and it tends to leak until I use MUCHO torque on the hollow bolt
(so much that I fear breaking something).  My 79TD had no alum washer but I
think it had had an additional upper O-ring/grove (can't say if this was
original); and my 79 filter bolt never leaked.  The 79 had a crate engine
installed by a PO and that crate engine may have had upgrades from original.

Looking at the online EPC, there are two versions of the hollow bolt
(A615-990-05-63 and A615-990-08-63) and two versions of the upper seal ring
(N007603-18101 and A000-997-00-48) with the first numbers applying to
earlier engines.  My guess is the N number is the old alum seal which was
later superseded by dual rubber O-rings in later engines.  I'm not sure if
you can just switch to the new style bolt and upper seal ring.  There are
also two styles of filter heads (the upper housing) and the old style filter
head may not seal with the upper rubber o-ring.

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2012 6:11 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

Hey,

My '78 240D tends to eat the aluminum washer on the hollow bolt for the
canister fuel filter. Last time I replaced it I snagged the one from my '83
240D. I'm wanting to do a diesel purge and filter and figured to get a spare
washer in case this one leaked after the replacement but Rusty tells me
they're NA, that theres a rubber seal ring instead. Anybody else have this
trouble? Anybody try a dealer? Is the rubber ring a suitable replacement?
Anybody ever anneal an aluminum washer?

-Curt


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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

2012-03-21 Thread buymbparts
All 3 numbers in EPC are rubber rings, trust me. I bought them all to see.


Sent on the Sprint® Now Network from my BlackBerry®

-Original Message-
From: "Scott Ritchey" 
Sender: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 19:00:28 
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

Just my experience:  

I too was unable to source the alum washer from stealer.  My 83SD has the
alum washer and it tends to leak until I use MUCHO torque on the hollow bolt
(so much that I fear breaking something).  My 79TD had no alum washer but I
think it had had an additional upper O-ring/grove (can't say if this was
original); and my 79 filter bolt never leaked.  The 79 had a crate engine
installed by a PO and that crate engine may have had upgrades from original.

Looking at the online EPC, there are two versions of the hollow bolt
(A615-990-05-63 and A615-990-08-63) and two versions of the upper seal ring
(N007603-18101 and A000-997-00-48) with the first numbers applying to
earlier engines.  My guess is the N number is the old alum seal which was
later superseded by dual rubber O-rings in later engines.  I'm not sure if
you can just switch to the new style bolt and upper seal ring.  There are
also two styles of filter heads (the upper housing) and the old style filter
head may not seal with the upper rubber o-ring.

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2012 6:11 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

Hey,

My '78 240D tends to eat the aluminum washer on the hollow bolt for the
canister fuel filter. Last time I replaced it I snagged the one from my '83
240D. I'm wanting to do a diesel purge and filter and figured to get a spare
washer in case this one leaked after the replacement but Rusty tells me
they're NA, that theres a rubber seal ring instead. Anybody else have this
trouble? Anybody try a dealer? Is the rubber ring a suitable replacement?
Anybody ever anneal an aluminum washer?

-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

2012-03-21 Thread Scott Ritchey
Just my experience:  

I too was unable to source the alum washer from stealer.  My 83SD has the
alum washer and it tends to leak until I use MUCHO torque on the hollow bolt
(so much that I fear breaking something).  My 79TD had no alum washer but I
think it had had an additional upper O-ring/grove (can't say if this was
original); and my 79 filter bolt never leaked.  The 79 had a crate engine
installed by a PO and that crate engine may have had upgrades from original.

Looking at the online EPC, there are two versions of the hollow bolt
(A615-990-05-63 and A615-990-08-63) and two versions of the upper seal ring
(N007603-18101 and A000-997-00-48) with the first numbers applying to
earlier engines.  My guess is the N number is the old alum seal which was
later superseded by dual rubber O-rings in later engines.  I'm not sure if
you can just switch to the new style bolt and upper seal ring.  There are
also two styles of filter heads (the upper housing) and the old style filter
head may not seal with the upper rubber o-ring.

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2012 6:11 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

Hey,

My '78 240D tends to eat the aluminum washer on the hollow bolt for the
canister fuel filter. Last time I replaced it I snagged the one from my '83
240D. I'm wanting to do a diesel purge and filter and figured to get a spare
washer in case this one leaked after the replacement but Rusty tells me
they're NA, that theres a rubber seal ring instead. Anybody else have this
trouble? Anybody try a dealer? Is the rubber ring a suitable replacement?
Anybody ever anneal an aluminum washer?

-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

2012-03-21 Thread rmassmann
Try a hydraulic fitting store. This is typical for a metric hydraulic 
fitting.


-Original Message- 
From: Curt Raymond

Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2012 6:10 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

Hey,

My '78 240D tends to eat the aluminum washer on the hollow bolt for the 
canister fuel filter. Last time I replaced it I snagged the one from my '83 
240D. I'm wanting to do a diesel purge and filter and figured to get a spare 
washer in case this one leaked after the replacement but Rusty tells me 
they're NA, that theres a rubber seal ring instead. Anybody else have this 
trouble? Anybody try a dealer? Is the rubber ring a suitable replacement? 
Anybody ever anneal an aluminum washer?


-Curt

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[MBZ] Aluminum washer

2012-03-21 Thread Curt Raymond
Hey,

My '78 240D tends to eat the aluminum washer on the hollow bolt for the 
canister fuel filter. Last time I replaced it I snagged the one from my '83 
240D. I'm wanting to do a diesel purge and filter and figured to get a spare 
washer in case this one leaked after the replacement but Rusty tells me they're 
NA, that theres a rubber seal ring instead. Anybody else have this trouble? 
Anybody try a dealer? Is the rubber ring a suitable replacement? Anybody ever 
anneal an aluminum washer?

-Curt

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