Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-16 Thread andrew strasfogel
Thanks - I will definitely try this at home!

On Thu, Dec 16, 2010 at 6:45 AM, John Reames  wrote:
> Check the atmospheric vent line to the fuel tank; if it has completely 
> plugged (it can plug with algae inside the tank) then the tank can hold 
> enough vacuum to cause air to be sucked into the lines at the engine (even 
> new ones with new seals, etc), or even to collapse the tank.
>
> You can try to remove the fuel fill cap when you shut down; you may hear air 
> being sucked in, or even have to pull the cap pretty hard to get it off the 
> fill tube.  Regardless, if removing and reinstalling the cap at shutdown 
> remedies the hot starting issue, suspect a plugged atmospheric vent line.
>
> --
> John W Reames
> jwrea...@comcast.net
> Home: +14106646986
> Mobile: +14437915905
>
> On Dec 15, 2010, at 19:21, Michael Esh  wrote:
>
>> Actually i did have a hard starting problem when hot and I still have the 
>> problem.  Now that it is cold again (michigan) the problem has become less 
>> of an issue.  I have replaced all hoses and lines as well as installing a 
>> new lift pump from Rusty and the check valve on the engine side of the 
>> injection pump.
>> Mike
>>
>>
>> On Dec 15, 2010, at 7:01 PM, Rick Knoble wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Didn't someone (Micheal Esh perhaps) have a starting problem and just 
>>> recently
>>> figured out the cause of his HOT start problem?
>>>
>>> Rick
>>>
>>>> Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2010 16:02:44 -0600
>>>> From: b...@mts.net
>>>> To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
>>>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD
>>>>
>>>> Didn't someone suggest air leakage into the fuel lines? That sounds like
>>>> it may not be getting fuel - assuming it has reasonable compression etc.
>>>>
>>>> Randy who is no expert on diesels
>>>>
>>>> On 15/12/2010 3:56 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:
>>>>> Another question.  The "good" 300TD starts without glowing when the
>>>>> engine is warm.  The "bad" 85 300TD always needs to be glowed before
>>>>> starting, regardless of engine temperature.  It starts quicker when
>>>>> it's warm, but I still need to glow it or it cranks a lot.  Does this
>>>>> observation mean the glow plugs aren't the problem?
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>>
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>>
>> ___
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>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-16 Thread Max Dillon
I've had good luck with the local Bosch diesel service shop - look in your
yellow pages or google them.  Also, if you've got a good independent MB
shop, they may offer that service as well.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Allan Streib
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 11:26 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

"Max Dillon"  writes:

> After that, pull the injectors and have the compression checked and
> have the injectors tested while they're out (don't forget to use new
> heat shields when you put the injectors back in).

Does anyone know of a good injector service shop (can test, balance, and
if necessary rebuild injectors using quality components).  Or is this
something that any diesel service shop normally does fairly well?

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-16 Thread John Reames
Check the atmospheric vent line to the fuel tank; if it has completely plugged 
(it can plug with algae inside the tank) then the tank can hold enough vacuum 
to cause air to be sucked into the lines at the engine (even new ones with new 
seals, etc), or even to collapse the tank.

You can try to remove the fuel fill cap when you shut down; you may hear air 
being sucked in, or even have to pull the cap pretty hard to get it off the 
fill tube.  Regardless, if removing and reinstalling the cap at shutdown 
remedies the hot starting issue, suspect a plugged atmospheric vent line.

--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Dec 15, 2010, at 19:21, Michael Esh  wrote:

> Actually i did have a hard starting problem when hot and I still have the 
> problem.  Now that it is cold again (michigan) the problem has become less of 
> an issue.  I have replaced all hoses and lines as well as installing a new 
> lift pump from Rusty and the check valve on the engine side of the injection 
> pump.  
> Mike
> 
> 
> On Dec 15, 2010, at 7:01 PM, Rick Knoble wrote:
> 
>> 
>> Didn't someone (Micheal Esh perhaps) have a starting problem and just 
>> recently 
>> figured out the cause of his HOT start problem?  
>> 
>> Rick
>> 
>>> Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2010 16:02:44 -0600
>>> From: b...@mts.net
>>> To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
>>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD
>>> 
>>> Didn't someone suggest air leakage into the fuel lines? That sounds like 
>>> it may not be getting fuel - assuming it has reasonable compression etc.
>>> 
>>> Randy who is no expert on diesels
>>> 
>>> On 15/12/2010 3:56 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:
>>>> Another question.  The "good" 300TD starts without glowing when the
>>>> engine is warm.  The "bad" 85 300TD always needs to be glowed before
>>>> starting, regardless of engine temperature.  It starts quicker when
>>>> it's warm, but I still need to glow it or it cranks a lot.  Does this
>>>> observation mean the glow plugs aren't the problem?
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> 
> ___
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> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-16 Thread John Reames
I'd think it indicates that they are a problem; disconnect the GP relay on the 
"good" one to find out.

BTW, GP relays can completely and utterly fail yet still be able to light the 
light; it seems to happen to the ones that have small slotted head screws 
holding the case together; one at each corner of the side with all the 
electrical connections.  The two halves of the case have a gasket/o-ring 
cross-section type of seal between them which can shrink (linearly, not 
diametrically) and split, leaving a gap through which water can infiltrate.  
When this happens on the side that mounts to the car, water can get close 
enough to be drawn in by capillary action. The water gets in and shorts out the 
electronics; mine was more than half full.

(If your GP relay is glued/welded/non-openable, this failure cannot occur)

This mode of failure seems particular to instances where the GP relay is 
mounted vertically beneath the hood/fender joint (I had it happen in an '85 
300D, but not in an '84 300SD)...

I suspect that water infiltration could also be an issue with relays that were 
missing the protective cap that covers all the electrical connections; the 
plastic pin in the place of the sixth GP pin has a vent hole in the very top...

Then there are the frakko brand electrolytic crapacitors, which seem to start 
failing after 10 years or so; this is also what takes out many CC amps...

When I had two OM 617's I kept a spare GP relay (and a set of plugs) on the 
shelf.  Using and removing the injection lines, you can replace all of them, 
including the back one, in about half of an hour...


--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Dec 15, 2010, at 16:56, andrew strasfogel  wrote:

> Another question.  The "good" 300TD starts without glowing when the
> engine is warm.  The "bad" 85 300TD always needs to be glowed before
> starting, regardless of engine temperature.  It starts quicker when
> it's warm, but I still need to glow it or it cranks a lot.  Does this
> observation mean the glow plugs aren't the problem?
> 
> On Wed, Dec 15, 2010 at 9:12 AM, Rich Thomas
>  wrote:
>> Yeah that sounds right.  I forget these things, maybe I should use a
>> notebook or something when doing these jobs.  But those gearwrenches are
>> great tools.
>> 
>> --R
>> 
>> On 12/14/2010 10:35 AM, John Reames wrote:
>>> 
>>> An 8mm gearwrench for the electrical connections, and a 10mm for the plugs
>>> proper.
>>> 
>>> --
>>> John W Reames
>>> jwrea...@comcast.net
>>> Home: +14106646986
>>> Mobile: +14437915905
>>> 
>>> On Dec 14, 2010, at 10:28, Rich
>>> Thomas  wrote:
>>> 
 Might want to check your glow plugs, relay, and CHECK YOUR FUSE.  The 84
 SD was getting a bit balky, even in warm weather, I replaced a couple of
 glow plugs and the relay (which did not appear to be relaying very well for
 reasons unclear), and it fires right up (though I have not yet tried it
 today after last night way down in the 20s).  I CHANGED THE FUSE too, first
 thing, but it was OK so that was not the issue.  Sort of minimal stuff that
 you should probably check as a matter of course, but makes quite the
 difference.
 
 Note:  changing the glow plugs really benefits from a 10mm (I think)
 gearwrench as that is about the only thing I could fit in there easily to
 loosen/tighten everything.  The relay is easy to change, make sure you
 disconnect the battery first.
 
 --R
 
 On 12/14/2010 10:14 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote:
> 
> This is a new problem for me.  The 1985 300TD recently had a valve
> adjustment so I wasn't too worried about it starting in the cold.
> Well, I should have been!  Yesterday, with a temp of around 23 F.,
> after sitting in the street for a mere 6 hours the 300TD barely
> started up without running down the (relatively new) battery.  I had
> to key the glow cycle three times for an additional 10-20 seconds each
> time before it fired up.
> 
> So how do I diagnose whether this is bad glow plugs or low
> compression?  Or could it be something else?  The car never fires up
> quickly in the best of circumstances, compared to the '83 turbo diesel
> wagon, although it has adequate power and acceleration.  Fuel is
> clean, too (I recently changed the tank strainer and other filters).
> 
> As always, TIA.
> 
> Andrew
> 1983 300TD starts like a 300TE
> 1985 300TD needs to  be wound up
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
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 To search list 

Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-15 Thread Allan Streib
"Max Dillon"  writes:

> After that, pull the injectors and have the compression checked and
> have the injectors tested while they're out (don't forget to use new
> heat shields when you put the injectors back in).

Does anyone know of a good injector service shop (can test, balance, and
if necessary rebuild injectors using quality components).  Or is this
something that any diesel service shop normally does fairly well?

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-15 Thread Max Dillon
No.  You still could have bad glow plugs, low compression (valve adjustment
or rings), bad injectors, leaking fuel lines.  Your car is trying to tell
you that it needs attention; that is all we know so far.  The easiest thing
to try first is measuring the resistance of the glow plugs.  Next would be
pulling the pre-glow relay fuse to see if it has cracks or crumbles in your
fingers.  After that, try operating the manual primer pump; if it leaks, it
needs to be replaced.  If it doesn't leak, keep pumping while SWMBO tries to
start the car (already recommended; if that helps, then you know you have a
leak in the fuel system.  I'd say the valve adjustment is 3rd from last, as
you say it was done recently.  After that, pull the injectors and have the
compression checked and have the injectors tested while they're out (don't
forget to use new heat shields when you put the injectors back in).

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 4:56 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

Another question.  The "good" 300TD starts without glowing when the
engine is warm.  The "bad" 85 300TD always needs to be glowed before
starting, regardless of engine temperature.  It starts quicker when
it's warm, but I still need to glow it or it cranks a lot.  Does this
observation mean the glow plugs aren't the problem?

On Wed, Dec 15, 2010 at 9:12 AM, Rich Thomas
 wrote:
> Yeah that sounds right.  I forget these things, maybe I should use a
> notebook or something when doing these jobs.  But those gearwrenches are
> great tools.
>
> --R
>
> On 12/14/2010 10:35 AM, John Reames wrote:
>>
>> An 8mm gearwrench for the electrical connections, and a 10mm for the
plugs
>> proper.
>>
>> --
>> John W Reames
>> jwrea...@comcast.net
>> Home: +14106646986
>> Mobile: +14437915905
>>
>> On Dec 14, 2010, at 10:28, Rich
>> Thomas  wrote:
>>
>>> Might want to check your glow plugs, relay, and CHECK YOUR FUSE.  The 84
>>> SD was getting a bit balky, even in warm weather, I replaced a couple of
>>> glow plugs and the relay (which did not appear to be relaying very well
for
>>> reasons unclear), and it fires right up (though I have not yet tried it
>>> today after last night way down in the 20s).  I CHANGED THE FUSE too,
first
>>> thing, but it was OK so that was not the issue.  Sort of minimal stuff
that
>>> you should probably check as a matter of course, but makes quite the
>>> difference.
>>>
>>> Note:  changing the glow plugs really benefits from a 10mm (I think)
>>> gearwrench as that is about the only thing I could fit in there easily
to
>>> loosen/tighten everything.  The relay is easy to change, make sure you
>>> disconnect the battery first.
>>>
>>> --R
>>>
>>> On 12/14/2010 10:14 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote:
>>>>
>>>> This is a new problem for me.  The 1985 300TD recently had a valve
>>>> adjustment so I wasn't too worried about it starting in the cold.
>>>> Well, I should have been!  Yesterday, with a temp of around 23 F.,
>>>> after sitting in the street for a mere 6 hours the 300TD barely
>>>> started up without running down the (relatively new) battery.  I had
>>>> to key the glow cycle three times for an additional 10-20 seconds each
>>>> time before it fired up.
>>>>
>>>> So how do I diagnose whether this is bad glow plugs or low
>>>> compression?  Or could it be something else?  The car never fires up
>>>> quickly in the best of circumstances, compared to the '83 turbo diesel
>>>> wagon, although it has adequate power and acceleration.  Fuel is
>>>> clean, too (I recently changed the tank strainer and other filters).
>>>>
>>>> As always, TIA.
>>>>
>>>> Andrew
>>>> 1983 300TD starts like a 300TE
>>>> 1985 300TD needs to  be wound up
>>>>
>>>> ___
>>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>>>
>>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>>>
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>>> To search list arch

Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-15 Thread Allan Streib
Mitch Haley  writes:

> Uneven running might be a problem with injector or IP balance, or
> maybe a GP or prechamber isn't quite right. (unless you're really
> lucky and its just a clogged fuel filter or pickup screen. (but
> usually by the time it won't idle right, the fuel starvation cuts
> noticeably into the power)

I'm thinking it's not glow plugs because it does start easily.  In my
experience, starting becomes noticeably difficult in cold weather with
even one bad glow plug.

Fuel filters... hmm.  It has been a while.  I think I have some around
here somewhere, I'll try changing them tomorrow and see.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-15 Thread Curt Raymond
No but it points more at the starter or the cables. In the absence of anything 
else to do you could go around cleaning and inspecting the cables...

I don't remember, did you say how old the plugs are? Have you had the engine 
compression tested? Shouldn't cost much to have that done and it would give you 
a good baseline.
Its also still possible that the valves were set incorrectly.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2010 16:56:04 -0500
From: andrew strasfogel 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD
Message-ID:
    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Another question.  The "good" 300TD starts without glowing when the
engine is warm.  The "bad" 85 300TD always needs to be glowed before
starting, regardless of engine temperature.  It starts quicker when
it's warm, but I still need to glow it or it cranks a lot.  Does this
observation mean the glow plugs aren't the problem?


  
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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-15 Thread Mitch Haley

Allan Streib wrote:


Is this the problem that the the rack damper bold adjustment cures?  Or
is that for excessive shaking at hot idle?


Uneven running might be a problem with injector or IP balance, or maybe a GP or 
prechamber isn't quite right. (unless you're really lucky and its just a clogged 
fuel filter or pickup screen. (but usually by the time it won't idle right, the 
fuel starvation cuts noticeably into the power)


The hand throttle on pre 1980 cars covers up most rough idle issues. I adjusted 
my 1979 SD up until max hand throttle let the turbo run away with a hot engine, 
then backed off 1/2 turn on the adjuster. Start the car with full hand throttle, 
and then drop it to normal idle a couple miles down the road.

The slower the idle, the more obvious the roughness.

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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-15 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
If the rack damper bolt is screwed in too much, you will have hot 
(and maybe cold too) starting problems.


On 12/15/2010 6:32 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

My 300D (OM617) is not hard to start, but when cold the engine is
shaking a lot more than it used to.  The colder it is, the more it
vibrates.  Mostly goes away when warm, or when the throttle is off idle
at all.

Is this the problem that the the rack damper bold adjustment cures?  Or
is that for excessive shaking at hot idle?

Allan


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-15 Thread Allan Streib
My 300D (OM617) is not hard to start, but when cold the engine is
shaking a lot more than it used to.  The colder it is, the more it
vibrates.  Mostly goes away when warm, or when the throttle is off idle
at all.

Is this the problem that the the rack damper bold adjustment cures?  Or
is that for excessive shaking at hot idle?

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-15 Thread Michael Esh
Actually i did have a hard starting problem when hot and I still have the 
problem.  Now that it is cold again (michigan) the problem has become less of 
an issue.  I have replaced all hoses and lines as well as installing a new lift 
pump from Rusty and the check valve on the engine side of the injection pump.  
Mike


On Dec 15, 2010, at 7:01 PM, Rick Knoble wrote:

> 
> Didn't someone (Micheal Esh perhaps) have a starting problem and just 
> recently 
> figured out the cause of his HOT start problem?  
> 
> Rick
> 
>> Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2010 16:02:44 -0600
>> From: b...@mts.net
>> To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD
>> 
>> Didn't someone suggest air leakage into the fuel lines? That sounds like 
>> it may not be getting fuel - assuming it has reasonable compression etc.
>> 
>> Randy who is no expert on diesels
>> 
>> On 15/12/2010 3:56 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:
>>> Another question.  The "good" 300TD starts without glowing when the
>>> engine is warm.  The "bad" 85 300TD always needs to be glowed before
>>> starting, regardless of engine temperature.  It starts quicker when
>>> it's warm, but I still need to glow it or it cranks a lot.  Does this
>>> observation mean the glow plugs aren't the problem?
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-15 Thread Rick Knoble

Didn't someone (Micheal Esh perhaps) have a starting problem and just recently 
figured out the cause of his HOT start problem?  

Rick

> Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2010 16:02:44 -0600
> From: b...@mts.net
> To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD
> 
> Didn't someone suggest air leakage into the fuel lines? That sounds like 
> it may not be getting fuel - assuming it has reasonable compression etc.
> 
> Randy who is no expert on diesels
> 
> On 15/12/2010 3:56 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:
> > Another question.  The "good" 300TD starts without glowing when the
> > engine is warm.  The "bad" 85 300TD always needs to be glowed before
> > starting, regardless of engine temperature.  It starts quicker when
> > it's warm, but I still need to glow it or it cranks a lot.  Does this
> > observation mean the glow plugs aren't the problem?

  
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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-15 Thread R A Bennell
Didn't someone suggest air leakage into the fuel lines? That sounds like 
it may not be getting fuel - assuming it has reasonable compression etc.


Randy who is no expert on diesels

On 15/12/2010 3:56 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

Another question.  The "good" 300TD starts without glowing when the
engine is warm.  The "bad" 85 300TD always needs to be glowed before
starting, regardless of engine temperature.  It starts quicker when
it's warm, but I still need to glow it or it cranks a lot.  Does this
observation mean the glow plugs aren't the problem?

On Wed, Dec 15, 2010 at 9:12 AM, Rich Thomas
  wrote:

Yeah that sounds right.  I forget these things, maybe I should use a
notebook or something when doing these jobs.  But those gearwrenches are
great tools.

--R

On 12/14/2010 10:35 AM, John Reames wrote:

An 8mm gearwrench for the electrical connections, and a 10mm for the plugs
proper.

--
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jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Dec 14, 2010, at 10:28, Rich
Thomaswrote:


Might want to check your glow plugs, relay, and CHECK YOUR FUSE.  The 84
SD was getting a bit balky, even in warm weather, I replaced a couple of
glow plugs and the relay (which did not appear to be relaying very well for
reasons unclear), and it fires right up (though I have not yet tried it
today after last night way down in the 20s).  I CHANGED THE FUSE too, first
thing, but it was OK so that was not the issue.  Sort of minimal stuff that
you should probably check as a matter of course, but makes quite the
difference.

Note:  changing the glow plugs really benefits from a 10mm (I think)
gearwrench as that is about the only thing I could fit in there easily to
loosen/tighten everything.  The relay is easy to change, make sure you
disconnect the battery first.

--R

On 12/14/2010 10:14 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

This is a new problem for me.  The 1985 300TD recently had a valve
adjustment so I wasn't too worried about it starting in the cold.
Well, I should have been!  Yesterday, with a temp of around 23 F.,
after sitting in the street for a mere 6 hours the 300TD barely
started up without running down the (relatively new) battery.  I had
to key the glow cycle three times for an additional 10-20 seconds each
time before it fired up.

So how do I diagnose whether this is bad glow plugs or low
compression?  Or could it be something else?  The car never fires up
quickly in the best of circumstances, compared to the '83 turbo diesel
wagon, although it has adequate power and acceleration.  Fuel is
clean, too (I recently changed the tank strainer and other filters).

As always, TIA.

Andrew
1983 300TD starts like a 300TE
1985 300TD needs to  be wound up

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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-15 Thread andrew strasfogel
Another question.  The "good" 300TD starts without glowing when the
engine is warm.  The "bad" 85 300TD always needs to be glowed before
starting, regardless of engine temperature.  It starts quicker when
it's warm, but I still need to glow it or it cranks a lot.  Does this
observation mean the glow plugs aren't the problem?

On Wed, Dec 15, 2010 at 9:12 AM, Rich Thomas
 wrote:
> Yeah that sounds right.  I forget these things, maybe I should use a
> notebook or something when doing these jobs.  But those gearwrenches are
> great tools.
>
> --R
>
> On 12/14/2010 10:35 AM, John Reames wrote:
>>
>> An 8mm gearwrench for the electrical connections, and a 10mm for the plugs
>> proper.
>>
>> --
>> John W Reames
>> jwrea...@comcast.net
>> Home: +14106646986
>> Mobile: +14437915905
>>
>> On Dec 14, 2010, at 10:28, Rich
>> Thomas  wrote:
>>
>>> Might want to check your glow plugs, relay, and CHECK YOUR FUSE.  The 84
>>> SD was getting a bit balky, even in warm weather, I replaced a couple of
>>> glow plugs and the relay (which did not appear to be relaying very well for
>>> reasons unclear), and it fires right up (though I have not yet tried it
>>> today after last night way down in the 20s).  I CHANGED THE FUSE too, first
>>> thing, but it was OK so that was not the issue.  Sort of minimal stuff that
>>> you should probably check as a matter of course, but makes quite the
>>> difference.
>>>
>>> Note:  changing the glow plugs really benefits from a 10mm (I think)
>>> gearwrench as that is about the only thing I could fit in there easily to
>>> loosen/tighten everything.  The relay is easy to change, make sure you
>>> disconnect the battery first.
>>>
>>> --R
>>>
>>> On 12/14/2010 10:14 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

 This is a new problem for me.  The 1985 300TD recently had a valve
 adjustment so I wasn't too worried about it starting in the cold.
 Well, I should have been!  Yesterday, with a temp of around 23 F.,
 after sitting in the street for a mere 6 hours the 300TD barely
 started up without running down the (relatively new) battery.  I had
 to key the glow cycle three times for an additional 10-20 seconds each
 time before it fired up.

 So how do I diagnose whether this is bad glow plugs or low
 compression?  Or could it be something else?  The car never fires up
 quickly in the best of circumstances, compared to the '83 turbo diesel
 wagon, although it has adequate power and acceleration.  Fuel is
 clean, too (I recently changed the tank strainer and other filters).

 As always, TIA.

 Andrew
 1983 300TD starts like a 300TE
 1985 300TD needs to  be wound up

 ___
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

>>> ___
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>>>
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
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>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>
> ___
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-15 Thread Rich Thomas
Yeah that sounds right.  I forget these things, maybe I should use a 
notebook or something when doing these jobs.  But those gearwrenches are 
great tools.


--R

On 12/14/2010 10:35 AM, John Reames wrote:

An 8mm gearwrench for the electrical connections, and a 10mm for the plugs 
proper.

--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Dec 14, 2010, at 10:28, Rich Thomas  
wrote:


Might want to check your glow plugs, relay, and CHECK YOUR FUSE.  The 84 SD was 
getting a bit balky, even in warm weather, I replaced a couple of glow plugs 
and the relay (which did not appear to be relaying very well for reasons 
unclear), and it fires right up (though I have not yet tried it today after 
last night way down in the 20s).  I CHANGED THE FUSE too, first thing, but it 
was OK so that was not the issue.  Sort of minimal stuff that you should 
probably check as a matter of course, but makes quite the difference.

Note:  changing the glow plugs really benefits from a 10mm (I think) gearwrench 
as that is about the only thing I could fit in there easily to loosen/tighten 
everything.  The relay is easy to change, make sure you disconnect the battery 
first.

--R

On 12/14/2010 10:14 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

This is a new problem for me.  The 1985 300TD recently had a valve
adjustment so I wasn't too worried about it starting in the cold.
Well, I should have been!  Yesterday, with a temp of around 23 F.,
after sitting in the street for a mere 6 hours the 300TD barely
started up without running down the (relatively new) battery.  I had
to key the glow cycle three times for an additional 10-20 seconds each
time before it fired up.

So how do I diagnose whether this is bad glow plugs or low
compression?  Or could it be something else?  The car never fires up
quickly in the best of circumstances, compared to the '83 turbo diesel
wagon, although it has adequate power and acceleration.  Fuel is
clean, too (I recently changed the tank strainer and other filters).

As always, TIA.

Andrew
1983 300TD starts like a 300TE
1985 300TD needs to  be wound up

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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-14 Thread Curt Raymond
Allen is right its not an inconsiderable expense, Beru plugs from Rusty are 
~$95...

I'm saying 50% chance its glowplugs, 50% its the starter. Your battery is "new" 
not "relatively new" ;)

Should be easy enough to tell if the "bad" car is cranking fast enough just by 
ear, fortunately you've got a "good" car to compare it to.

You could always swap glow plugs between cars... Of course it'd be a lot of 
work. As I said before swapping glowplugs isn't hard but its not really any fun 
either. Having done it in the cold I go out of my way to NOT have to. I did the 
'78 240D last month, assuming it gets through the winter the '84 190D will get 
new plugs next summer some time. I'd rather do them too early but out in the 
warm than wait for a failure and do it out in the cold...

-Curt

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 16:55:29 -0500
From: andrew strasfogel 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD
Message-ID:
    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

So Curt, it sounds like you are betting the farm that replacing all my
GPs will solve the problem.  I love ordering parts anyway, so this
diagnosis and relatively easy solution makes me happier than any of
the others.  Except that the weak starter hypothesis sounds just as
persuasive.

BTW, the battery in this car was replaced in the spring of 2010 with a
big honking Diehard, so that's what I mean by "relatively new".  The
fact that I was unable to kill it last night means it must still be
more than adequate for the task.


On Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 4:18 PM, Curt Raymond  wrote:
>
Or bad glowplugs. I drove my '83 240D with 2 bad plugs (which means
none were working I think) once for a couple days while Rusty got me
replacements. I brought my big battery and inverter so it'd start
easier...
>
> -Curt


  
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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-14 Thread Jim Cathey

If I plugged in the car prior to starting and it fired right up, what
would that mean with regard to these other possible issues?


It clears the fuel system.  Probably.  Everything else
mentioned so far is temperature-dependent, and would thus
be helped by the block heater.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-14 Thread Mountain Man
andrew wrote:
> I had
> to key the glow cycle three times for an additional 10-20 seconds each
> time before it fired up.

You can hear the relay click 'off' - a noticeable click sound.  Do not
just let it sit 20-20 seconds - the relay releases at about 90
seconds.  Then, do that complete cycle 2 or three times and you have
played with glow cycle for probably 4 minutes, not just 10-20 seconds.
Are you letting the relay release?
mao

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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-14 Thread Dieselhead
Best is to set the valves cold, after sitting at least overnight. 
For winter, the valves clearances are set  .002 inch wider.  I 
usually ran the winter clearances year round.  You loose a little in 
performance, but don't have starting problems when the weather went 
cold suddenly.


On the sticker on the radiator crossmember, there are two possible 
intake clearances along with temperature info...


--
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jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Dec 14, 2010, at 12:56, "Allan Streib"  wrote:

 Never heard of "winter" clearances, except I dimly recall 
something about clearances for *really* cold/arctic conditions.


 I've always heard the need to be adjusted dead cold.  As in, 
sitting overnight, and not even started to pull into the 
garage/service area.


 Allan

 On Tue, 14 Dec 2010 10:33 -0500, "John Reames"  wrote:

 Were the valves adjusted hot or cold? Were they set at the "winter" or
 "summer" clearances?

 --
 John W Reames
 jwrea...@comcast.net
 Home: +14106646986
 Mobile: +14437915905

 On Dec 14, 2010, at 10:14, andrew strasfogel 
 wrote:


 This is a new problem for me.  The 1985 300TD recently had a valve
 adjustment so I wasn't too worried about it starting in the cold.
 Well, I should have been!  Yesterday, with a temp of around 23 F.,
 after sitting in the street for a mere 6 hours the 300TD barely
 started up without running down the (relatively new) battery.  I had
 to key the glow cycle three times for an additional 10-20 seconds each
 time before it fired up.

 So how do I diagnose whether this is bad glow plugs or low
 compression?  Or could it be something else?  The car never fires up
 quickly in the best of circumstances, compared to the '83 turbo diesel
 wagon, although it has adequate power and acceleration.  Fuel is
 clean, too (I recently changed the tank strainer and other filters).

 As always, TIA.

 Andrew
 1983 300TD starts like a 300TE
 1985 300TD needs to  be wound up

 ___
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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-14 Thread Fmiser
> Allan Streib wrote:

> Marshall used to say that the fusible link could look fine but
> still be a problem.
> 
> You can check resistance of the glow plugs in situ.  The
> resistance is fairly low; you need a halfway decent meter, and
> I can't recall what the normal value is.  But any plugs that
> measure higher than than the others are suspect.

What I have found to be the most dependable way to check plugs
is with a current meter.

I use an old-fashioned automotive ammeter.  The ones that
display -30,0,+30. I put 12AWG wire leads on it.

To use it, I pop the top off of the glow relay and unplug the
connector for the glow plugs. There is a contact for each glow
plug in this connector, so I clip on meter lead to the fused
side of the big, screw-in fuse and then touch each contact,
one at a time. The socket has pin numbers molded into it, and
these numbers correspond to the cylinder number.

This method tests the supply 12V, the wire, and the plug. When
cold, a good plug draws about 20A (Well, on my meter it point
to the mark for 20 amps. I have not calibrated or tested the
accuracy of that meter...) It will drop back to about 15A
after 8-10 seconds.

If the plug is bad, the current will be less.

If the wire or connectors are in poor shape, the current will
be less.

If the supply voltage is low, the current will be less.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-14 Thread John Reames
On the sticker on the radiator crossmember, there are two possible intake 
clearances along with temperature info...

--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Dec 14, 2010, at 12:56, "Allan Streib"  wrote:

> Never heard of "winter" clearances, except I dimly recall something about 
> clearances for *really* cold/arctic conditions.
> 
> I've always heard the need to be adjusted dead cold.  As in, sitting 
> overnight, and not even started to pull into the garage/service area.
> 
> Allan
> 
> On Tue, 14 Dec 2010 10:33 -0500, "John Reames"  wrote:
>> Were the valves adjusted hot or cold? Were they set at the "winter" or
>> "summer" clearances?
>> 
>> --
>> John W Reames
>> jwrea...@comcast.net
>> Home: +14106646986
>> Mobile: +14437915905
>> 
>> On Dec 14, 2010, at 10:14, andrew strasfogel 
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> This is a new problem for me.  The 1985 300TD recently had a valve
>>> adjustment so I wasn't too worried about it starting in the cold.
>>> Well, I should have been!  Yesterday, with a temp of around 23 F.,
>>> after sitting in the street for a mere 6 hours the 300TD barely
>>> started up without running down the (relatively new) battery.  I had
>>> to key the glow cycle three times for an additional 10-20 seconds each
>>> time before it fired up.
>>> 
>>> So how do I diagnose whether this is bad glow plugs or low
>>> compression?  Or could it be something else?  The car never fires up
>>> quickly in the best of circumstances, compared to the '83 turbo diesel
>>> wagon, although it has adequate power and acceleration.  Fuel is
>>> clean, too (I recently changed the tank strainer and other filters).
>>> 
>>> As always, TIA.
>>> 
>>> Andrew
>>> 1983 300TD starts like a 300TE
>>> 1985 300TD needs to  be wound up
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
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>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-14 Thread Allan Streib
Glow plugs are not really expensive, but there are 5 of them.  That's $85 - 
$100 from Rusty depending on whether you go with Bosch or Beru (the latter 
being preferable).  In my book that's not money you spend without being 
reasonably sure it's going to solve the problem.

I'd at least measure resistance on each plug.  I think the desired reading is 
about .6 ohms.  Over 1 ohm and it's bad.  Meters vary, especially cheap ones at 
that low a range, so if four are the same and one is higher that's also 
indicative.

Even one bad plug will make starting significantly harder especially as temps 
drop.

See http://www.dieselgiant.com/glowplugrepair.htm



On Tue, 14 Dec 2010 13:18 -0800, "Curt Raymond"  wrote:
> Or bad glowplugs. I drove my '83 240D with 2 bad plugs (which means none
> were working I think) once for a couple days while Rusty got me
> replacements. I brought my big battery and inverter so it'd start
> easier...
> 
> -Curt
> 
> Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 11:55:40 -0800 (PST)
> From: Max Dillon 
> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD
> Message-ID: <615202.12098...@web180003.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> If using the block heater will make it fire right up, I think that would 
> indicate compression improves with heat, which could be poorly adjusted
> valves 
> or worn out piston rings.
> 
> -Max
> 
> 
>   
> ___
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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-14 Thread andrew strasfogel
So Curt, it sounds like you are betting the farm that replacing all my
GPs will solve the problem.  I love ordering parts anyway, so this
diagnosis and relatively easy solution makes me happier than any of
the others.  Except that the weak starter hypothesis sounds just as
persuasive.

BTW, the battery in this car was replaced in the spring of 2010 with a
big honking Diehard, so that's what I mean by "relatively new".  The
fact that I was unable to kill it last night means it must still be
more than adequate for the task.


On Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 4:18 PM, Curt Raymond  wrote:
> Or bad glowplugs. I drove my '83 240D with 2 bad plugs (which means none were 
> working I think) once for a couple days while Rusty got me replacements. I 
> brought my big battery and inverter so it'd start easier...
>
> -Curt
>
> Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 11:55:40 -0800 (PST)
> From: Max Dillon 
> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD
> Message-ID: <615202.12098...@web180003.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> If using the block heater will make it fire right up, I think that would
> indicate compression improves with heat, which could be poorly adjusted valves
> or worn out piston rings.
>
> -Max
>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-14 Thread Curt Raymond
Or bad glowplugs. I drove my '83 240D with 2 bad plugs (which means none were 
working I think) once for a couple days while Rusty got me replacements. I 
brought my big battery and inverter so it'd start easier...

-Curt

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 11:55:40 -0800 (PST)
From: Max Dillon 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD
Message-ID: <615202.12098...@web180003.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

If using the block heater will make it fire right up, I think that would 
indicate compression improves with heat, which could be poorly adjusted valves 
or worn out piston rings.

-Max


  
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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-14 Thread Curt Raymond
Dude, I replaced the glowplugs in my 240D once in the parking lot of my 
apartment complex at 7pm with SWMBO holding a flashlight, it was 10F...

If you want to be safe and sure just replace all the glowplugs, its not all 
that expensive and not all that hard.

-Curt

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 13:14:40 -0500
From: andrew strasfogel 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD
Message-ID:
    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

The valves were adjusted COLD.

I see no reason to R/R the glow plug fuse (it either works or it
doesn't - right?) but I could R/R the glow plug RELAY if you think
that is worth a try.  I don't have the wherewithal (unheated garage)
to remove and test the glow plugs.

Not aware of any leaks either either but I could pump the primer while
SWMBO is cranking.

If I plugged in the car prior to starting and it fired right up, what
would that mean with regard to these other possible issues?

Andrew
1983 and 1985 300TDs


  
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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-14 Thread Max Dillon
If using the block heater will make it fire right up, I think that would 
indicate compression improves with heat, which could be poorly adjusted valves 
or worn out piston rings.

-Max





From: andrew strasfogel 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Sent: Tue, December 14, 2010 1:14:40 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

The valves were adjusted COLD.

I see no reason to R/R the glow plug fuse (it either works or it
doesn't - right?) but I could R/R the glow plug RELAY if you think
that is worth a try.  I don't have the wherewithal (unheated garage)
to remove and test the glow plugs.

Not aware of any leaks either either but I could pump the primer while
SWMBO is cranking.

If I plugged in the car prior to starting and it fired right up, what
would that mean with regard to these other possible issues?

Andrew
1983 and 1985 300TDs

On Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 12:56 PM, Allan Streib  wrote:
> Never heard of "winter" clearances, except I dimly recall something about 
>clearances for *really* cold/arctic conditions.
>
> I've always heard the need to be adjusted dead cold.  As in, sitting 
> overnight, 
>and not even started to pull into the garage/service area.
>
> Allan
>
> On Tue, 14 Dec 2010 10:33 -0500, "John Reames"  wrote:
>> Were the valves adjusted hot or cold? Were they set at the "winter" or
>> "summer" clearances?
>>
>> --
>> John W Reames
>> jwrea...@comcast.net
>> Home: +14106646986
>> Mobile: +14437915905
>>
>> On Dec 14, 2010, at 10:14, andrew strasfogel 
>> wrote:
>>
>> > This is a new problem for me.  The 1985 300TD recently had a valve
>> > adjustment so I wasn't too worried about it starting in the cold.
>> > Well, I should have been!  Yesterday, with a temp of around 23 F.,
>> > after sitting in the street for a mere 6 hours the 300TD barely
>> > started up without running down the (relatively new) battery.  I had
>> > to key the glow cycle three times for an additional 10-20 seconds each
>> > time before it fired up.
>> >
>> > So how do I diagnose whether this is bad glow plugs or low
>> > compression?  Or could it be something else?  The car never fires up
>> > quickly in the best of circumstances, compared to the '83 turbo diesel
>> > wagon, although it has adequate power and acceleration.  Fuel is
>> > clean, too (I recently changed the tank strainer and other filters).
>> >
>> > As always, TIA.
>> >
>> > Andrew
>> > 1983 300TD starts like a 300TE
>> > 1985 300TD needs to  be wound up
>> >
>> > ___
>> > http://www.okiebenz.com
>> > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> >
>> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>

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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-14 Thread Allan Streib
Oh, and disconnect the glow plug harness where it plugs into the relay before 
measuring resistance.


On Tue, 14 Dec 2010 14:10 -0500, "Allan Streib"  wrote:
> Marshall used to say that the fusible link could look fine but still be
> a problem.
> 
> You can check resistance of the glow plugs in situ.  The resistance is
> fairly low; you need a halfway decent meter, and I can't recall what the
> normal value is.  But any plugs that measure higher than than the others
> are suspect.
> 
> Allan
> 
> 
> On Tue, 14 Dec 2010 13:14 -0500, "andrew strasfogel"
>  wrote:
> > The valves were adjusted COLD.
> >
> > I see no reason to R/R the glow plug fuse (it either works or it
> > doesn't - right?) but I could R/R the glow plug RELAY if you think
> > that is worth a try.  I don't have the wherewithal (unheated garage)
> > to remove and test the glow plugs.
> >
> > Not aware of any leaks either either but I could pump the primer while
> > SWMBO is cranking.
> >
> > If I plugged in the car prior to starting and it fired right up, what
> > would that mean with regard to these other possible issues?
> >
> > Andrew 1983 and 1985 300TDs
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 

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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-14 Thread Allan Streib
Marshall used to say that the fusible link could look fine but still be
a problem.

You can check resistance of the glow plugs in situ.  The resistance is
fairly low; you need a halfway decent meter, and I can't recall what the
normal value is.  But any plugs that measure higher than than the others
are suspect.

Allan


On Tue, 14 Dec 2010 13:14 -0500, "andrew strasfogel"  
wrote:
> The valves were adjusted COLD.
>
> I see no reason to R/R the glow plug fuse (it either works or it
> doesn't - right?) but I could R/R the glow plug RELAY if you think
> that is worth a try.  I don't have the wherewithal (unheated garage)
> to remove and test the glow plugs.
>
> Not aware of any leaks either either but I could pump the primer while
> SWMBO is cranking.
>
> If I plugged in the car prior to starting and it fired right up, what
> would that mean with regard to these other possible issues?
>
> Andrew 1983 and 1985 300TDs

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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-14 Thread Peter Frederick
Get the current draw tested for the starter.  Chances are it's turning slow and 
it's not gonna start, also draws too much juice.

900A is the spec for  a new starter, up to 1100 or so is OK, more than that 
it's time for a replacement.  DO NOT just put new bushings and brushes in, this 
will not fix the excessive resistance in the windings.  Must have a new 
armature, like a proper Bosch rebuild.

You might want to leave the valves a bit loose, too, and check them again after 
a few hundred miles.  Carbon will build up on the valves and give you a false 
reading for clearance -- it wears off when you let the valve rise more, then 
you have "tight" valves again!

If it's not smoking a big cloud of white smoke while you are cranking and it 
won't start, you have a fuel delivery problem.

And I would change all the glow plugs if you have not done so in the that three 
years, they don't last forever.

Peter


-Original Message-
>From: Allan Streib 
>Sent: Dec 14, 2010 11:56 AM
>To: Mercedes Discussion List 
>Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD
>
>Never heard of "winter" clearances, except I dimly recall something about 
>clearances for *really* cold/arctic conditions.
>
>I've always heard the need to be adjusted dead cold.  As in, sitting 
>overnight, and not even started to pull into the garage/service area.
>
>Allan
>
>On Tue, 14 Dec 2010 10:33 -0500, "John Reames"  wrote:
>> Were the valves adjusted hot or cold? Were they set at the "winter" or
>> "summer" clearances?
>> 
>> --
>> John W Reames
>> jwrea...@comcast.net
>> Home: +14106646986
>> Mobile: +14437915905
>> 
>> On Dec 14, 2010, at 10:14, andrew strasfogel 
>> wrote:
>> 
>> > This is a new problem for me.  The 1985 300TD recently had a valve
>> > adjustment so I wasn't too worried about it starting in the cold.
>> > Well, I should have been!  Yesterday, with a temp of around 23 F.,
>> > after sitting in the street for a mere 6 hours the 300TD barely
>> > started up without running down the (relatively new) battery.  I had
>> > to key the glow cycle three times for an additional 10-20 seconds each
>> > time before it fired up.
>> > 
>> > So how do I diagnose whether this is bad glow plugs or low
>> > compression?  Or could it be something else?  The car never fires up
>> > quickly in the best of circumstances, compared to the '83 turbo diesel
>> > wagon, although it has adequate power and acceleration.  Fuel is
>> > clean, too (I recently changed the tank strainer and other filters).
>> > 
>> > As always, TIA.
>> > 
>> > Andrew
>> > 1983 300TD starts like a 300TE
>> > 1985 300TD needs to  be wound up
>> > 
>> > ___
>> > http://www.okiebenz.com
>> > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> > 
>> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
>
>___
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>
>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-14 Thread Curt Raymond
23F isn't even cold in any realistic sense, car should start good for another 
20 degrees.

When was the last time the glows were changed?

How old is the battery? "Relatively new" means nothing, if its more than 3 
years old its suspect. The car should crank quickly for a long time, if its 
slowing down noticably before 20 or 30 seconds goes by it needs replacing.

Does this car crank noticably more slowly than your other one? Maybe its due 
for a starter.

-Curt

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 10:14:11 -0500
From: andrew strasfogel 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD
Message-ID:
    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

This is a new problem for me.  The 1985 300TD recently had a valve
adjustment so I wasn't too worried about it starting in the cold.
Well, I should have been!  Yesterday, with a temp of around 23 F.,
after sitting in the street for a mere 6 hours the 300TD barely
started up without running down the (relatively new) battery.  I had
to key the glow cycle three times for an additional 10-20 seconds each
time before it fired up.

So how do I diagnose whether this is bad glow plugs or low
compression?  Or could it be something else?  The car never fires up
quickly in the best of circumstances, compared to the '83 turbo diesel
wagon, although it has adequate power and acceleration.  Fuel is
clean, too (I recently changed the tank strainer and other filters).

As always, TIA.

Andrew
1983 300TD starts like a 300TE
1985 300TD needs to  be wound up


  
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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-14 Thread andrew strasfogel
The valves were adjusted COLD.

I see no reason to R/R the glow plug fuse (it either works or it
doesn't - right?) but I could R/R the glow plug RELAY if you think
that is worth a try.  I don't have the wherewithal (unheated garage)
to remove and test the glow plugs.

Not aware of any leaks either either but I could pump the primer while
SWMBO is cranking.

If I plugged in the car prior to starting and it fired right up, what
would that mean with regard to these other possible issues?

Andrew
1983 and 1985 300TDs

On Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 12:56 PM, Allan Streib  wrote:
> Never heard of "winter" clearances, except I dimly recall something about 
> clearances for *really* cold/arctic conditions.
>
> I've always heard the need to be adjusted dead cold.  As in, sitting 
> overnight, and not even started to pull into the garage/service area.
>
> Allan
>
> On Tue, 14 Dec 2010 10:33 -0500, "John Reames"  wrote:
>> Were the valves adjusted hot or cold? Were they set at the "winter" or
>> "summer" clearances?
>>
>> --
>> John W Reames
>> jwrea...@comcast.net
>> Home: +14106646986
>> Mobile: +14437915905
>>
>> On Dec 14, 2010, at 10:14, andrew strasfogel 
>> wrote:
>>
>> > This is a new problem for me.  The 1985 300TD recently had a valve
>> > adjustment so I wasn't too worried about it starting in the cold.
>> > Well, I should have been!  Yesterday, with a temp of around 23 F.,
>> > after sitting in the street for a mere 6 hours the 300TD barely
>> > started up without running down the (relatively new) battery.  I had
>> > to key the glow cycle three times for an additional 10-20 seconds each
>> > time before it fired up.
>> >
>> > So how do I diagnose whether this is bad glow plugs or low
>> > compression?  Or could it be something else?  The car never fires up
>> > quickly in the best of circumstances, compared to the '83 turbo diesel
>> > wagon, although it has adequate power and acceleration.  Fuel is
>> > clean, too (I recently changed the tank strainer and other filters).
>> >
>> > As always, TIA.
>> >
>> > Andrew
>> > 1983 300TD starts like a 300TE
>> > 1985 300TD needs to  be wound up
>> >
>> > ___
>> > http://www.okiebenz.com
>> > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> >
>> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>
> ___
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> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>

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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-14 Thread Allan Streib
Never heard of "winter" clearances, except I dimly recall something about 
clearances for *really* cold/arctic conditions.

I've always heard the need to be adjusted dead cold.  As in, sitting overnight, 
and not even started to pull into the garage/service area.

Allan

On Tue, 14 Dec 2010 10:33 -0500, "John Reames"  wrote:
> Were the valves adjusted hot or cold? Were they set at the "winter" or
> "summer" clearances?
> 
> --
> John W Reames
> jwrea...@comcast.net
> Home: +14106646986
> Mobile: +14437915905
> 
> On Dec 14, 2010, at 10:14, andrew strasfogel 
> wrote:
> 
> > This is a new problem for me.  The 1985 300TD recently had a valve
> > adjustment so I wasn't too worried about it starting in the cold.
> > Well, I should have been!  Yesterday, with a temp of around 23 F.,
> > after sitting in the street for a mere 6 hours the 300TD barely
> > started up without running down the (relatively new) battery.  I had
> > to key the glow cycle three times for an additional 10-20 seconds each
> > time before it fired up.
> > 
> > So how do I diagnose whether this is bad glow plugs or low
> > compression?  Or could it be something else?  The car never fires up
> > quickly in the best of circumstances, compared to the '83 turbo diesel
> > wagon, although it has adequate power and acceleration.  Fuel is
> > clean, too (I recently changed the tank strainer and other filters).
> > 
> > As always, TIA.
> > 
> > Andrew
> > 1983 300TD starts like a 300TE
> > 1985 300TD needs to  be wound up
> > 
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> > 
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 

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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-14 Thread Dieselhead

The car never fires up
quickly in the best of circumstances, compared to the '83 turbo diesel
wagon, although it has adequate power and acceleration.

This is indicative of air leaking into the fuel system.  Try pumping 
up the fuel with the primer pump then having someone glow and start 
the car while you continue to pump.  It the engine starte noticably 
faster, then you have an air leak.  Most likely culprits are the 
hoses, and connections, the primer pump and the possibility of rust 
on the steel lines.  If you see a fuel leak, it it long past leaking 
air.  Most air leaks do not leak fuel.




This is a new problem for me.  The 1985 300TD recently had a valve
adjustment so I wasn't too worried about it starting in the cold.
Well, I should have been!  Yesterday, with a temp of around 23 F.,
after sitting in the street for a mere 6 hours the 300TD barely
started up without running down the (relatively new) battery.  I had
to key the glow cycle three times for an additional 10-20 seconds each
time before it fired up.

So how do I diagnose whether this is bad glow plugs or low
compression?  Or could it be something else?  The car never fires up
quickly in the best of circumstances, compared to the '83 turbo diesel
wagon, although it has adequate power and acceleration.  Fuel is
clean, too (I recently changed the tank strainer and other filters).

As always, TIA.

Andrew
1983 300TD starts like a 300TE
1985 300TD needs to  be wound up

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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-14 Thread Jim Cathey

This is a new problem for me.  The 1985 300TD recently had a valve
adjustment so I wasn't too worried about it starting in the cold.
Well, I should have been!  Yesterday, with a temp of around 23 F.,
after sitting in the street for a mere 6 hours the 300TD barely
started up without running down the (relatively new) battery.  I had
to key the glow cycle three times for an additional 10-20 seconds each
time before it fired up.


It could also be poorly-adjusted valves!

How's your cranking RPM?  It's critical.  Cold weather is
also where synthetic oil shines, it helps the engine turn
over quicker, which improves starting.

The Albatross was always a reluctant starter.  High miles,
but the compression was OK.  (Not great, but OK.)

What is the voltage at each plug when you hit the glow?

You could pull each pencil glow plug and clamp it in a vise,
then use the ammeter/battery trick to see how its current draw
behaved, and how hot the tip gets, and whether or not the heat
pattern is correct.  (You need an old-school dashboard ammeter,
most multimeters will be killed by the high current required.)
Or you could just replace them all.

And, of course, there's always the compression check.  I
bought the Harbor Freight kit, on sale.

See the Albatross' log:

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mb240d.html

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-14 Thread John Reames
An 8mm gearwrench for the electrical connections, and a 10mm for the plugs 
proper.

--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Dec 14, 2010, at 10:28, Rich Thomas  
wrote:

> Might want to check your glow plugs, relay, and CHECK YOUR FUSE.  The 84 SD 
> was getting a bit balky, even in warm weather, I replaced a couple of glow 
> plugs and the relay (which did not appear to be relaying very well for 
> reasons unclear), and it fires right up (though I have not yet tried it today 
> after last night way down in the 20s).  I CHANGED THE FUSE too, first thing, 
> but it was OK so that was not the issue.  Sort of minimal stuff that you 
> should probably check as a matter of course, but makes quite the difference.
> 
> Note:  changing the glow plugs really benefits from a 10mm (I think) 
> gearwrench as that is about the only thing I could fit in there easily to 
> loosen/tighten everything.  The relay is easy to change, make sure you 
> disconnect the battery first.
> 
> --R
> 
> On 12/14/2010 10:14 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote:
>> This is a new problem for me.  The 1985 300TD recently had a valve
>> adjustment so I wasn't too worried about it starting in the cold.
>> Well, I should have been!  Yesterday, with a temp of around 23 F.,
>> after sitting in the street for a mere 6 hours the 300TD barely
>> started up without running down the (relatively new) battery.  I had
>> to key the glow cycle three times for an additional 10-20 seconds each
>> time before it fired up.
>> 
>> So how do I diagnose whether this is bad glow plugs or low
>> compression?  Or could it be something else?  The car never fires up
>> quickly in the best of circumstances, compared to the '83 turbo diesel
>> wagon, although it has adequate power and acceleration.  Fuel is
>> clean, too (I recently changed the tank strainer and other filters).
>> 
>> As always, TIA.
>> 
>> Andrew
>> 1983 300TD starts like a 300TE
>> 1985 300TD needs to  be wound up
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-14 Thread John Reames
Were the valves adjusted hot or cold? Were they set at the "winter" or "summer" 
clearances?

--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Dec 14, 2010, at 10:14, andrew strasfogel  wrote:

> This is a new problem for me.  The 1985 300TD recently had a valve
> adjustment so I wasn't too worried about it starting in the cold.
> Well, I should have been!  Yesterday, with a temp of around 23 F.,
> after sitting in the street for a mere 6 hours the 300TD barely
> started up without running down the (relatively new) battery.  I had
> to key the glow cycle three times for an additional 10-20 seconds each
> time before it fired up.
> 
> So how do I diagnose whether this is bad glow plugs or low
> compression?  Or could it be something else?  The car never fires up
> quickly in the best of circumstances, compared to the '83 turbo diesel
> wagon, although it has adequate power and acceleration.  Fuel is
> clean, too (I recently changed the tank strainer and other filters).
> 
> As always, TIA.
> 
> Andrew
> 1983 300TD starts like a 300TE
> 1985 300TD needs to  be wound up
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-14 Thread Rich Thomas
Might want to check your glow plugs, relay, and CHECK YOUR FUSE.  The 84 
SD was getting a bit balky, even in warm weather, I replaced a couple of 
glow plugs and the relay (which did not appear to be relaying very well 
for reasons unclear), and it fires right up (though I have not yet tried 
it today after last night way down in the 20s).  I CHANGED THE FUSE too, 
first thing, but it was OK so that was not the issue.  Sort of minimal 
stuff that you should probably check as a matter of course, but makes 
quite the difference.


Note:  changing the glow plugs really benefits from a 10mm (I think) 
gearwrench as that is about the only thing I could fit in there easily 
to loosen/tighten everything.  The relay is easy to change, make sure 
you disconnect the battery first.


--R

On 12/14/2010 10:14 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

This is a new problem for me.  The 1985 300TD recently had a valve
adjustment so I wasn't too worried about it starting in the cold.
Well, I should have been!  Yesterday, with a temp of around 23 F.,
after sitting in the street for a mere 6 hours the 300TD barely
started up without running down the (relatively new) battery.  I had
to key the glow cycle three times for an additional 10-20 seconds each
time before it fired up.

So how do I diagnose whether this is bad glow plugs or low
compression?  Or could it be something else?  The car never fires up
quickly in the best of circumstances, compared to the '83 turbo diesel
wagon, although it has adequate power and acceleration.  Fuel is
clean, too (I recently changed the tank strainer and other filters).

As always, TIA.

Andrew
1983 300TD starts like a 300TE
1985 300TD needs to  be wound up

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[MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-14 Thread andrew strasfogel
This is a new problem for me.  The 1985 300TD recently had a valve
adjustment so I wasn't too worried about it starting in the cold.
Well, I should have been!  Yesterday, with a temp of around 23 F.,
after sitting in the street for a mere 6 hours the 300TD barely
started up without running down the (relatively new) battery.  I had
to key the glow cycle three times for an additional 10-20 seconds each
time before it fired up.

So how do I diagnose whether this is bad glow plugs or low
compression?  Or could it be something else?  The car never fires up
quickly in the best of circumstances, compared to the '83 turbo diesel
wagon, although it has adequate power and acceleration.  Fuel is
clean, too (I recently changed the tank strainer and other filters).

As always, TIA.

Andrew
1983 300TD starts like a 300TE
1985 300TD needs to  be wound up

___
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