Re: [MBZ] Timing chain replacement advice
On inline engines i have put in a new chain many times by myself. Definitely have a heavy wire (16 ga copper or larger or a coathanger) on each end with loops beg enough they won't drop inside.. I have had a locking forceps with relief behind the jaws that I use for fishing out the chain whenever I let the backside (tensioner) drop. I learned my lesson, and have not dropped a chain for maybe 30 years. On the backside of the chain, it is not critical to maintain tension. I take out the radiator so I can get the crank pulley with a ratchet. I turn it with one hand while hanging onto the new chain with the other hand. Every half turn or so, I stop and pull out the backside chain. After you get about halfway, the weight of the old chain keep it tensioned. Then you can roll in the remainder in nonstop. You need to keep the new chain against the teeth of the camshaft sprocket so the valves stay in time, or remove the camshaft so all the valves stay shut. The offside, you just drape down the side of the engine. On a V engine (gas or diesel) you want to have the special tool to keep the old and new chains under control and against the camshaft sprocket. I once had to take out an engine because I dropped the center link of the repair link inside the engine. Now I always use a magnet to keep them under control. As others have pointed out, there is a keeper by the timing advance to keep the chain engaged with the inj. timing sprocket, and the pan is fitted so as to keep the chain engaged to the crankshaft sprocket. Because of this, you don't have to worry about jumping time other than the camshaft. Allow yourself a day so you don't feel rushed. You should be done in about 4 hours or less the first time, depending on how many times you need to go for coathangers and other stuff. It is not hard. it just requires that everything is done right. I never use any special tools, except with the aforementioned V- engine. (M116) dseretakis wrote: Thanks Peter. Do you think that fancy tool is worth it? Craig wrote: Attached is a picture of a cheap version of the fancy tool someone on the list made sometime on the past. I'll let others comment on its efficacy and appropriateness. Hey! That looks like mine! Oh - it _is_ mine. heh. It worked well for me. Still have it, ready for the next car. I was able to do the job by my self. -- Philip ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Timing chain replacement advice
dseretakis wrote: Thanks Peter. Do you think that fancy tool is worth it? Craig wrote: Attached is a picture of a cheap version of the fancy tool someone on the list made sometime on the past. I'll let others comment on its efficacy and appropriateness. Hey! That looks like mine! Oh - it _is_ mine. heh. It worked well for me. Still have it, ready for the next car. I was able to do the job by my self. -- Philip ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Timing chain replacement advice
Thanks. This is great stuff. About the tool; I'm not sure how it works. It keeps the chain against the cam but doesn't the chain still have to be pulled to feed it through and keep things taught? Sent from my iPhone On Dec 27, 2012, at 11:22 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote: On Thu, 27 Dec 2012 22:11:52 -0600 OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote: It should save some time, but I don't think it's worth it iff you don't replace timeing chains more than two or three times in your life. I followed Peter's process almost exactly all three times I've done it. I used three pieces of 12 ga. house wire to tie the chain to the cam sprocket - keeping two on it at all times. Yes, it is slow to rotate a bit, move wire ties, rotate a bit, etc. till it's all done, but better than the anxiety when the cam jumps a tooth ot two, and you're not even sure which way, it's so fast. (BTDT) I was lucky, the engine would not turn over once a piston hit the valve while turning the engine by hand - guessed the right direction, moved the chain one link, and it ran fine for the next 100,000+ miles. I really must have been fortunate when I changed the timing chain on our '64 190Dc (OM621 or OM636) with no special tools and not much in the way of instructions other than the Chilton manual and had no difficulties. Craig P.S. Below are old emails on the subject. I sent a copy of the picture of the chain link tool mentioned in the second email to the list tonight. So, whenever Kaleb approves it ... From: jfre...@aol.com To: merce...@striplin.net Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list merce...@striplin.net Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300D timing chain replacement Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 02:15:44 EST Sender: mercedes-boun...@striplin.net X-Mailer: 9.0 Security Edition for Windows sub 2340 In a message dated 11/9/2005 6:15:19 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, t...@brdgstn.com writes: Contemplaing doing timing chain overdue at 270K miles. I have been doing some research. It appears a chain buddy;, ie standby helper is required. Can this job be done totally solo? I have not met any of my neighbors or friends/wifes/kids or enemies who gives a rats a-- for my 77 300D or would be worthy or interested in helping. Tom, I have done 3 chains solo, and never dropped a link. The most recent was the easiest, due to a tip from one of the listers. I tied the end of a long bungee cord overhead and used that to take up the old chain. You tie it offset from center of the car, and not too high, so that the new chain always is pulled over the cam gear. My basket ball pole was handy and I used that. This frees up you to turn the crank and watch the new chain feed in. Figure on moving the bungee hook in the chain about 4 times so you don't have to stretch it too tight. Two caveats. You MUST relieve cranking pressure by pulling the glow plugs (my choice) or the injectors. The new chain goes in so much easier, and there is no chance of an accidental power stroke. Before you break the chain, you should always tie the chain ends to the cam gear so that if anything goes wrong you still have your timing. Also make sure that the service link picks up all the link plates on both chains or one will fold back and the result will block the chain from clearing the crank gear as clearance is very tight there. Once you have the new chain attached to the old chain, and tension on the old chain with the bungee, you can cut the ties. Same deal when you are done and ready to splice the chain--tie those ends down! Do not trust your grip in this oily environment! On many models you must remove the chain tensioner, because they have a stepping mechanism in them that takes up the slack as the chain wears. You cannot push this kind back. I like this kind the best because they do not rattle when the engine is first started. Many install a new tensioner with any new chain job. It is certain that you will see heavy spring wear on your old one, should you take the piston out to reload it Good luck, you can do this! Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 261 K miles 98 ML 320, 138 K miles = From: Loren Faeth lfa...@leadingchange.com To: Mercedes mailing list merce...@striplin.net Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list merce...@striplin.net Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300D timing chain replacement Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 11:36:27 -0600 Sender: mercedes-boun...@striplin.net X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Version 6.2.0.14 I've always done the chain solo. I like to tie or vicegrip the chain to the cam sprocket before breaking a link. I also tie a small wire to each side of the chain before i break it. I have learned to stuff rags in the chaincase cavity in case you DO drop something. (Need to pull the rags out before you actually roll in
Re: [MBZ] Timing chain replacement advice
dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: Thanks. This is great stuff. About the tool; I'm not sure how it works. It keeps the chain against the cam but doesn't the chain still have to be pulled to feed it through and keep things taught? Yes, it lets you turn the engine carefully while feeding a new chain down the drivers side of the cam sprocket and pulling the old chain off the passenger side without the chain falling off the sprockets. Usually takes one or two people to feed the chains while another turns the crank bolt. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Timing chain replacement advice
Hey Dimitri, You should have changed the timing chain at 100K miles so first roll back the odometer. On Fri, Dec 28, 2012 at 7:12 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote: dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: Thanks. This is great stuff. About the tool; I'm not sure how it works. It keeps the chain against the cam but doesn't the chain still have to be pulled to feed it through and keep things taught? Yes, it lets you turn the engine carefully while feeding a new chain down the drivers side of the cam sprocket and pulling the old chain off the passenger side without the chain falling off the sprockets. Usually takes one or two people to feed the chains while another turns the crank bolt. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Timing chain replacement advice
Haha. It's not mileage but stretch. Last I checked mine was at 5 degrees. So are you helping out? Everyone here recommends one person to turn crankshaft and two people to pull and feed the chain - you, me, Gael! Sent from my iPhone On Dec 28, 2012, at 11:16 AM, Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote: Hey Dimitri, You should have changed the timing chain at 100K miles so first roll back the odometer. On Fri, Dec 28, 2012 at 7:12 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote: dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: Thanks. This is great stuff. About the tool; I'm not sure how it works. It keeps the chain against the cam but doesn't the chain still have to be pulled to feed it through and keep things taught? Yes, it lets you turn the engine carefully while feeding a new chain down the drivers side of the cam sprocket and pulling the old chain off the passenger side without the chain falling off the sprockets. Usually takes one or two people to feed the chains while another turns the crank bolt. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Timing chain replacement advice
I'm unfortunately not available to help out this time. On Fri, Dec 28, 2012 at 10:38 AM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: Haha. It's not mileage but stretch. Last I checked mine was at 5 degrees. So are you helping out? Everyone here recommends one person to turn crankshaft and two people to pull and feed the chain - you, me, Gael! Sent from my iPhone On Dec 28, 2012, at 11:16 AM, Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote: Hey Dimitri, You should have changed the timing chain at 100K miles so first roll back the odometer. On Fri, Dec 28, 2012 at 7:12 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote: dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: Thanks. This is great stuff. About the tool; I'm not sure how it works. It keeps the chain against the cam but doesn't the chain still have to be pulled to feed it through and keep things taught? Yes, it lets you turn the engine carefully while feeding a new chain down the drivers side of the cam sprocket and pulling the old chain off the passenger side without the chain falling off the sprockets. Usually takes one or two people to feed the chains while another turns the crank bolt. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Timing chain replacement advice
Maybe next time. 200K miles away! Sent from my iPhone On Dec 28, 2012, at 2:24 PM, Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote: I'm unfortunately not available to help out this time. On Fri, Dec 28, 2012 at 10:38 AM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: Haha. It's not mileage but stretch. Last I checked mine was at 5 degrees. So are you helping out? Everyone here recommends one person to turn crankshaft and two people to pull and feed the chain - you, me, Gael! Sent from my iPhone On Dec 28, 2012, at 11:16 AM, Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote: Hey Dimitri, You should have changed the timing chain at 100K miles so first roll back the odometer. On Fri, Dec 28, 2012 at 7:12 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote: dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: Thanks. This is great stuff. About the tool; I'm not sure how it works. It keeps the chain against the cam but doesn't the chain still have to be pulled to feed it through and keep things taught? Yes, it lets you turn the engine carefully while feeding a new chain down the drivers side of the cam sprocket and pulling the old chain off the passenger side without the chain falling off the sprockets. Usually takes one or two people to feed the chains while another turns the crank bolt. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Timing chain replacement advice
I might be changing the timing chain on my 82 240D in the next three weeks. I've never done this and so will be enlisting the help of a friend in DC. (Andrew, you are welcome to help!) The car has around 245,000 miles. Any tips on the procedure? What special tools, if any, I might need? Should I replace the tensioner, tension rail, guide rail or rails? Anything to beware of? Sent from my iPhone ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Timing chain replacement advice
You should inspect the rails now - - if there are grooves worn in them, they need to be replaced. Put them in when you do the new chain. A chain breaking/swaging tool is nice, but not absolutely necessary. If you can fish one up, there is a bracket to bolts over the cam sprocket that holds the chain on both sides and is open on the top, this makes putting a new one in very easy. If you don't have the tool, what you want to do is remove the chain tensioner and upper chain guide on the injection pump side. Wire tie the chain to both sides of the cam, then grind off the rivet head on one link at the top. Drive the link out the back, watch you don't drop the center piece into the crankcase. Use the new link you bought (usually NOT in the box with the new chain) to attach the new chain to the old one on the side that will pull into the chain cover when you rotate the engine in the normal direction. I think that's the driver's side, but make sure, I get things backwards (dyslexia is great, you get to make all sorts of unexpected trips when you turn the wrong way). Hook some wire (clothes hanger, mechanics wire, etc) to the other side and keep tension on the chain and the links on the sprocket at all times. You can then walk the chain in by turning the engine a bit, adding a new wire tie on each side, and cutting the old one. Vise grips work too, but make sure you don't hang them up on the cam towers, etc. If you have a helper , you can hold the chain in place manually -- with the fancy tool, the chain is held by the tool and all you have to do is feed it in and help the old chain out of the way. Once you get the new chain all the way in, take off the old one and install the new link in the ends of the new chain, which must be sitting on the sprocket next to each other. Don't forget the center link. Swage the chain with the fancy tool, or just back up the link with a steel block and use a hammer to peen over the ends of the new link. Check cam timing! You can't screw up the crank to injection timer unless you take out the retainer bolt down by the injection pump, but you can jump the cam a tooth fairly easily. When I pulled a new chain into the 220D, I dropped the old chain twice and had to make a tool to fish it out from brazing rod, which is why I recommend a wire handle -- harder to lose control of it and much easier to pull back up. I did my alone, it's easier with two people, but my brother and I still managed to jump the chain on the cam one tooth on his SDL. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Timing chain replacement advice
Thanks Peter. Do you think that fancy tool is worth it? Sent from my iPhone On Dec 27, 2012, at 6:56 PM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net wrote: You should inspect the rails now - - if there are grooves worn in them, they need to be replaced. Put them in when you do the new chain. A chain breaking/swaging tool is nice, but not absolutely necessary. If you can fish one up, there is a bracket to bolts over the cam sprocket that holds the chain on both sides and is open on the top, this makes putting a new one in very easy. If you don't have the tool, what you want to do is remove the chain tensioner and upper chain guide on the injection pump side. Wire tie the chain to both sides of the cam, then grind off the rivet head on one link at the top. Drive the link out the back, watch you don't drop the center piece into the crankcase. Use the new link you bought (usually NOT in the box with the new chain) to attach the new chain to the old one on the side that will pull into the chain cover when you rotate the engine in the normal direction. I think that's the driver's side, but make sure, I get things backwards (dyslexia is great, you get to make all sorts of unexpected trips when you turn the wrong way). Hook some wire (clothes hanger, mechanics wire, etc) to the other side and keep tension on the chain and the links on the sprocket at all times. You can then walk the chain in by turning the engine a bit, adding a new wire tie on each side, and cutting the old one. Vise grips work too, but make sure you don't hang them up on the cam towers, etc. If you have a helper , you can hold the chain in place manually -- with the fancy tool, the chain is held by the tool and all you have to do is feed it in and help the old chain out of the way. Once you get the new chain all the way in, take off the old one and install the new link in the ends of the new chain, which must be sitting on the sprocket next to each other. Don't forget the center link. Swage the chain with the fancy tool, or just back up the link with a steel block and use a hammer to peen over the ends of the new link. Check cam timing! You can't screw up the crank to injection timer unless you take out the retainer bolt down by the injection pump, but you can jump the cam a tooth fairly easily. When I pulled a new chain into the 220D, I dropped the old chain twice and had to make a tool to fish it out from brazing rod, which is why I recommend a wire handle -- harder to lose control of it and much easier to pull back up. I did my alone, it's easier with two people, but my brother and I still managed to jump the chain on the cam one tooth on his SDL. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Timing chain replacement advice
If you are going to open it up, you may as well do the tensioners and guides. If you are pretty sure everything else is in good condition, you can just remove the valve cover and spin the crank until you get to the link. Split the link after you mark everything as to position. Three people make this job really simple. Have person one taking up the slack, person two manning the crank with a 27mm socket, person three gets to maintain tension and feed the new chain. It is good to have a 12 inch length of wire hooked to the back end of the new chain for person three to hold onto. Keep going until person one has control of the new chain and person three is left with a bit of new chain and wire to hold. Remove old chain from new at the link and use a new link to hook the ends of the new chain together. Person two then cranks around once more to make sure everything is good and no teeth have skipped. clay 1974 450sl - Frosch - Two tone green 1972 220D - Gump - She is green, simple and ran 1995 E300D - Cleo - Used by the Queen of Denial POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers On Dec 27, 2012, at 3:23 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: I might be changing the timing chain on my 82 240D in the next three weeks. I've never done this and so will be enlisting the help of a friend in DC. (Andrew, you are welcome to help!) The car has around 245,000 miles. Any tips on the procedure? What special tools, if any, I might need? Should I replace the tensioner, tension rail, guide rail or rails? Anything to beware of? Sent from my iPhone ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Timing chain replacement advice
If you can find one to borrow, I certainly would. Not sure I'd buy one for a couple hundred bucks for one use though. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Timing chain replacement advice
On Thu, 27 Dec 2012 22:11:52 -0600 OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote: It should save some time, but I don't think it's worth it iff you don't replace timeing chains more than two or three times in your life. I followed Peter's process almost exactly all three times I've done it. I used three pieces of 12 ga. house wire to tie the chain to the cam sprocket - keeping two on it at all times. Yes, it is slow to rotate a bit, move wire ties, rotate a bit, etc. till it's all done, but better than the anxiety when the cam jumps a tooth ot two, and you're not even sure which way, it's so fast. (BTDT) I was lucky, the engine would not turn over once a piston hit the valve while turning the engine by hand - guessed the right direction, moved the chain one link, and it ran fine for the next 100,000+ miles. I really must have been fortunate when I changed the timing chain on our '64 190Dc (OM621 or OM636) with no special tools and not much in the way of instructions other than the Chilton manual and had no difficulties. Craig P.S. Below are old emails on the subject. I sent a copy of the picture of the chain link tool mentioned in the second email to the list tonight. So, whenever Kaleb approves it ... From: jfre...@aol.com To: merce...@striplin.net Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list merce...@striplin.net Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300D timing chain replacement Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 02:15:44 EST Sender: mercedes-boun...@striplin.net X-Mailer: 9.0 Security Edition for Windows sub 2340 In a message dated 11/9/2005 6:15:19 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, t...@brdgstn.com writes: Contemplaing doing timing chain overdue at 270K miles. I have been doing some research. It appears a chain buddy;, ie standby helper is required. Can this job be done totally solo? I have not met any of my neighbors or friends/wifes/kids or enemies who gives a rats a-- for my 77 300D or would be worthy or interested in helping. Tom, I have done 3 chains solo, and never dropped a link. The most recent was the easiest, due to a tip from one of the listers. I tied the end of a long bungee cord overhead and used that to take up the old chain. You tie it offset from center of the car, and not too high, so that the new chain always is pulled over the cam gear. My basket ball pole was handy and I used that. This frees up you to turn the crank and watch the new chain feed in. Figure on moving the bungee hook in the chain about 4 times so you don't have to stretch it too tight. Two caveats. You MUST relieve cranking pressure by pulling the glow plugs (my choice) or the injectors. The new chain goes in so much easier, and there is no chance of an accidental power stroke. Before you break the chain, you should always tie the chain ends to the cam gear so that if anything goes wrong you still have your timing. Also make sure that the service link picks up all the link plates on both chains or one will fold back and the result will block the chain from clearing the crank gear as clearance is very tight there. Once you have the new chain attached to the old chain, and tension on the old chain with the bungee, you can cut the ties. Same deal when you are done and ready to splice the chain--tie those ends down! Do not trust your grip in this oily environment! On many models you must remove the chain tensioner, because they have a stepping mechanism in them that takes up the slack as the chain wears. You cannot push this kind back. I like this kind the best because they do not rattle when the engine is first started. Many install a new tensioner with any new chain job. It is certain that you will see heavy spring wear on your old one, should you take the piston out to reload it Good luck, you can do this! Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 261 K miles 98 ML 320, 138 K miles = From: Loren Faeth lfa...@leadingchange.com To: Mercedes mailing list merce...@striplin.net Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list merce...@striplin.net Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300D timing chain replacement Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 11:36:27 -0600 Sender: mercedes-boun...@striplin.net X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Version 6.2.0.14 I've always done the chain solo. I like to tie or vicegrip the chain to the cam sprocket before breaking a link. I also tie a small wire to each side of the chain before i break it. I have learned to stuff rags in the chaincase cavity in case you DO drop something. (Need to pull the rags out before you actually roll in the new chain.) I once dropped the center link down a OM621. It wedged between the teeth of the crank sprocket. I ended up having to take the engine out and flip it over and pull the pan. Ruined my day! That was probably about the 5th chain i replaced, and i got sloppy. Never hurry or get sloppy messing with the chain. Many years ago i acquired a medical
Re: [MBZ] Timing chain replacement advice
It should save some time, but I don't think it's worth it iff you don't replace timeing chains more than two or three times in your life. I followed Peter's process almost exactly all three times I've done it. I used three pieces of 12 ga. house wire to tie the chain to the cam sprocket - keeping two on it at all times. Yes, it is slow to rotate a bit, move wire ties, rotate a bit, etc. till it's all done, but better than the anxiety when the cam jumps a tooth ot two, and you're not even sure which way, it's so fast. (BTDT) I was lucky, the engine would not turn over once a piston hit the valve while turning the engine by hand - guessed the right direction, moved the chain one link, and it ran fine for the next 100,000+ miles. On Thu, Dec 27, 2012 at 7:26 PM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.netwrote: If you can find one to borrow, I certainly would. Not sure I'd buy one for a couple hundred bucks for one use though. Peter __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- OK Don 2001 ML320 2012 Passat TDI DSG 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager 1957 C182A ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
