Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush (update)
On Apr 10, 2006, at 10:47 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: First, thanks again to all the commented on this problem, lots of valuable insight. Bottom line, it is running fine now. I opened up the thermostat housing, the radiator plug, the plug to the engine block, hoses to and from the heator core and removed the resevoir cap and ran gallons and gallons of water through it. It produced a lot of rust and crud from the acid flush and I am guessing that this must have been slowing things down. Filled it up with Zerex G-05 and it is now running cooler than ever by about 10-15 degress. Thanks, Dan Elliott Great news. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
I will look into that. I should mention that when I replaced the radiator hoses, rubber right ? They had a layer of rust in there. I think there is a ton of rust in this engine. What is the routine for getting rid of all of this ? Is one acid flush typically enough ? What about using a Prestone product instead of the citric acid method > ? I didn't think the citric acid did much for rust, but was very effective on the mineral deposits and metal salts (aluminum corrosion) that can build up and are particularly good insulators. But I don't really know. The one time I knew I needed to use the acid flush was on a 603, and it had visible white chunks inside the cooling passages. Worked. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
I will look into that. I should mention that when I replaced the radiator hoses, rubber right ? They had a layer of rust in there. I think there is a ton of rust in this engine. What is the routine for getting rid of all of this ? Is one acid flush typically enough ? What about using a Prestone product instead of the citric acid method ? On the subject of the radiator, do you ever replace them when they are not leaking but because they have correded inside or have deposits within them that can't be removed ? Here is what Mercedes has to say about it http://mb.braingears.com/123_DISK2/program/Engine/617/20-015.pdf http://mb.braingears.com/123_DISK2/program/engine_82_do.htm Rick Knoble '85 300 CD '87 190 DT
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
On Apr 5, 2006, at 9:14 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Johnny B. said: "Have you considered checking to see if the thermostat has junk in it or it's stuck from a reaction to the acid flush? Are your belts tight?" I will look into that. I should mention that when I replaced the radiator hoses, rubber right ? They had a layer of rust in there. I think there is a ton of rust in this engine. What is the routine for getting rid of all of this ? Is one acid flush typically enough ? What about using a Prestone product instead of the citric acid method ? Pulling the water jacket drain plug may help. all you can do is keep flushing and rinsing until you're satisfied that its clean. On the subject of the radiator, do you ever replace them when they are not leaking but because they have correded inside or have deposits within them that can't be removed ? Sure, a plugged radiator could be replaced and some send them in for disassembly and cleaning too. Thanks, Dan Elliott Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
You can have the radiator cleaned of deposits. This is often done. Any good radiator shop should be able to do it. I think I paid about $50 to have mine cleaned a few years ago. The old standby cooling system cleaner from years ago was DuPont No. 7. It would really REALLY clean the system. God only knows what it did to the metal, seals, and gaskets. I don't think you can even buy it anymore. With the alloys in the new engines, I would not recommend it anyway. Tom Potter -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 8:14 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush Johnny B. said: "Have you considered checking to see if the thermostat has junk in it or it's stuck from a reaction to the acid flush? Are your belts tight?" I will look into that. I should mention that when I replaced the radiator hoses, rubber right ? They had a layer of rust in there. I think there is a ton of rust in this engine. What is the routine for getting rid of all of this ? Is one acid flush typically enough ? What about using a Prestone product instead of the citric acid method ? On the subject of the radiator, do you ever replace them when they are not leaking but because they have correded inside or have deposits within them that can't be removed ? Thanks, Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 93kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
Johnny B. said: "Have you considered checking to see if the thermostat has junk in it or it's stuck from a reaction to the acid flush? Are your belts tight?" I will look into that. I should mention that when I replaced the radiator hoses, rubber right ? They had a layer of rust in there. I think there is a ton of rust in this engine. What is the routine for getting rid of all of this ? Is one acid flush typically enough ? What about using a Prestone product instead of the citric acid method ? On the subject of the radiator, do you ever replace them when they are not leaking but because they have correded inside or have deposits within them that can't be removed ? Thanks, Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 93kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
On Apr 4, 2006, at 4:21 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 1. checking the weep hole on the water pump and the sound of the water pump and 2. Checking that the small tube that sends coolant to the head is clear. I think I will also check the connection of the temp sensor. Thanks to everyone that replied for the many valuable insights. Dan Elliott Have you considered checking to see if the thermostat has junk in it or it's stuck from a reaction to the acid flush? Are your belts tight? Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
Marshall Wrote: "The most usual cause of what you describe is a BIG air bubble in the cooling system. Did you have the heater heat on full when filling the system? Did you finally fill the system thru the top radiator hose? That allows air to be expelled when nothing else works." I did not do the things that you mentioned but I drove it for nearly 3 hours over the course of a few days at highway speed sometimes for up to 30 minutes with no problems until now. Would an air bubble suddenly cause this ? Not sure. Seems to me that something like that might happen right away. I will try to do the things that you mention above as well as: 1. checking the weep hole on the water pump and the sound of the water pump and 2. Checking that the small tube that sends coolant to the head is clear. I think I will also check the connection of the temp sensor. Thanks to everyone that replied for the many valuable insights. Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 93kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
FYI, the water pump is not very difficult to install (nor very expensive -
$42 from Rusty) - remove belts, fan, and water pump - depending on things
in the way there may be some other things to remove - and reinstall. And
yes, it's a good time to replace belts and hoses.
Depending on how long that one;s been in place it might make sense to
install a new one while you control the location Vs being on the interstate
in the middle of the night wondering if you shut it down in time before
warping the head. IMHO of course.
I'm surprised the acid flush didn;t instruct you to add something to
neutralize the acid - some kind of lime solution maybe? Flushing is fine
but it;s a lengthy process - as you;ve discovered - and neutralizing it will
add some protection. Just a thought - acid flushing is not something I've
ever done..
Good luck -
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 12:35 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
Tom Potter mentioned that I might have a blocked "u tube between head and
water pump". I will look into that before I start ordering parts.
The fact that my water pump is very rusty really sticks out since
everything else is oily. That point is hard for me to get around. And
that the coolant has been rusty every time I have drained it for the past
few years.
"Using water as coolant". I was just reading the official MB manual and
it says that you can use water as long as you use a rust inhibitor. I am
in the stage of the flushing process where you run the engine with water
in it to get out the acid. Will get back to coolant soon.
Jim Cathey Said:
"Check the temperature first, and replace the sender if it's wrong."
Where is that thing anyway ? The reason would be that the sender costs a
lot less than an infrared thermometer. I think that sometimes it is
cheaper to throw some parts at a problem. (But lets not get
philosophical) What about putting a glass thermometer on the top coolant
hose ?
Jim Cathey Said:
"A sudden change in operating temperature, everything else being the same,
is either the sender lying or the thermostat acting up."
This is intriguing because that is what I have on my hands. I guess I
really need to visually inspect the weep hole to verify that it is
leaking. I will do that and report back. The thermostat is only about 4
months old. I guess I should check it to make sure it is correct. Will do
that and report back.
Dan Elliott
'82 300D-T 93kmi -grounded-
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Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
Many times an attempted flush will cause plugging in the radiator because of loose stuff, its a delayed reaction. My procedure it to remove the radiator, flush everything I can, forward and reverse with a hose, including the removed radiator. When it all looks clear, put it back together and do the flush thing. Harry Watkins Newton, MS 86 SDL Silver 85 300D Euro 86 SDL Gold 81 240D manual trans - Original Message - From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > checking the actual temperature of the head. I am thinking I should > > just change the sensor. > > Why potentially waste money? Check the temperature first, and replace > the sender if it's wrong. > > > Tom Potter said "the rust will form a mild abrasive destroying pump > > seals" this sounds like what might have been happening for a while and > > the acid flush just finished off the job by releasing even more rust > > and crud. > > Is your pump leaking or making grinding noises? If not, the chances of > a water pump problem are _extremely_ small. > > A sudden change in operating temperature, everything else being the > same, > is either the sender lying or the thermostat acting up. > > -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
Tom Potter mentioned that I might have a blocked "u tube between head and water pump". I will look into that before I start ordering parts. The fact that my water pump is very rusty really sticks out since everything else is oily. That point is hard for me to get around. And that the coolant has been rusty every time I have drained it for the past few years. "Using water as coolant". I was just reading the official MB manual and it says that you can use water as long as you use a rust inhibitor. I am in the stage of the flushing process where you run the engine with water in it to get out the acid. Will get back to coolant soon. Jim Cathey Said: "Check the temperature first, and replace the sender if it's wrong." Where is that thing anyway ? The reason would be that the sender costs a lot less than an infrared thermometer. I think that sometimes it is cheaper to throw some parts at a problem. (But lets not get philosophical) What about putting a glass thermometer on the top coolant hose ? Jim Cathey Said: "A sudden change in operating temperature, everything else being the same, is either the sender lying or the thermostat acting up." This is intriguing because that is what I have on my hands. I guess I really need to visually inspect the weep hole to verify that it is leaking. I will do that and report back. The thermostat is only about 4 months old. I guess I should check it to make sure it is correct. Will do that and report back. Dan Elliott '82 300D-T 93kmi -grounded- Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
The sensor for the dash temp gauge is a one-wire sensor, but it is located on the side of the cylinder head between the glow plugs. If original, it doesn't hurt to replace it, although usually when they go bad they read low, not high. A new sensor is about $10-12 from Rusty. The sensor you're seeing at the t-stat area is either for the EDS (which I didn't think was used back in 1982) or it's a temp switch of some sort. I haven't owned a W123 in a while and I forget what the sensor up top is for. :) -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline) > -- > Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 11:04:12 -0400 > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush > > >New Question: > > I guess the sensor is located on the top of the motor very near > the thermostat housing with one wire attached ?
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
checking the actual temperature of the head. I am thinking I should just change the sensor. Why potentially waste money? Check the temperature first, and replace the sender if it's wrong. Tom Potter said "the rust will form a mild abrasive destroying pump seals" this sounds like what might have been happening for a while and the acid flush just finished off the job by releasing even more rust and crud. Is your pump leaking or making grinding noises? If not, the chances of a water pump problem are _extremely_ small. A sudden change in operating temperature, everything else being the same, is either the sender lying or the thermostat acting up. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
Um, I think you found the problem - water can not cool an engine by itself - you need a 50/50 blend of antifreeze / water. Water is an excellent coolant, even better than a glycol mix. It has other problems however, such as corrosion, freezability, and it can boil too easily under high heat conditions. None are likely to be a problem right now and for the short term. But get some coolant in there! -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
Just a quick note on the fan clutch. I've read a couple comments that the fan doesn't do much at freeway speeds, where "ram air" theoretically would cool the car. This is not correct... the fan does a *lot* more than you think at freeway speeds. Anyone who doesn't think so should remove their fan and go for a quick test drive in the summertime at 55mph+. (I'd recommend you bring the fan, and tools, with you in case you need to re-install on the side of the road.) When I bought my car in 1997, the old fan clutch was inoperative. The new clutch significantly reduced freeway operating temps. At low speeds, the engine isn't spinning fast enough to make the fan do much anyway... the radiator condition, t-stat, and electric fan are more important at idle and low vehicle speeds. Also remember that gas cars tend to heat up a lot at idle, while diesels produce minimal heat at idle. Diesels tend to build heat under load, and cool off when load is removed. I've had more than one MB or VW diesel that would cool off at idle compared to running at freeway speeds in *really* hot weather. Jim's comment about a bad or plugged radiator causing a good clutch not to engage is also important... you need good airflow through rad & condenser fins, AND there cannot be a "cool spot" in the radiator directly ahead of the clutch. :) +dm > -------------- > Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 07:33:52 -0700 > Subject: Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush > > > > All that said, I'd start with the thermostat! You did remember to > > put it back in after the flush, right? Is it in correctly?
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
. The other thing I should mention is that I am using water for coolant right now as I track down MB Coolant. Not sure if that would explain my problem. Seems unlikely since it was working fine. Um, I think you found the problem - water can not cool an engine by itself - you need a 50/50 blend of antifreeze / water. Dave W
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
Thanks to all who responded! To answer a few questions: Dimitri asked if I had re-checked the coolant level. Yes I did. It was a few days after the flush that this overheating happened and in that time I added enough to top off. It was fine for a few days afterwards and then started acting up. Jim Cathey asked if I remembered to put the thermostat back in, yes I did and it was running fine for a few days then started acting up. Also mentioned checking the actual temperature of the head. I am thinking I should just change the sensor. >New Question: I guess the sensor is located on the top of the motor very near the thermostat housing with one wire attached ? >New Question: Is the water pump difficult to change ? I was reading about it in the Haynes manual last night, any special tools required ? I guess I should think about putting new belts on at this point ? Any thing else while I am in there ? Tom Potter said "the rust will form a mild abrasive destroying pump seals" this sounds like what might have been happening for a while and the acid flush just finished off the job by releasing even more rust and crud. The other thing I should mention is that I am using water for coolant right now as I track down MB Coolant. Not sure if that would explain my problem. Seems unlikely since it was working fine. Thanks in Advance, Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 93kmi -Currently Parked- Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
One thing I forgot: the little U-tube between the head and water pump. It could be plugged and not allowing the air to vent from the pump. I had this happen on my 300D. Just remove it and clean it out with a wire or some such. Tom Potter -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 9:34 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush > All that said, I'd start with the thermostat! You did remember to > put it back in after the flush, right? Is it in correctly? Oh, and getting the air bubble out of the head can be tricky. I backfill the block through the upper radiator hose. Makes a big difference. -- Jim ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
All that said, I'd start with the thermostat! You did remember to put it back in after the flush, right? Is it in correctly? Oh, and getting the air bubble out of the head can be tricky. I backfill the block through the upper radiator hose. Makes a big difference. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
I recently did an acid flush and the car was running fine until a few days after the flush. The car now is running hotter than *before* the flush. Cooling systems are difficult to diagnose. You need a thermometer, I use the infrared contact-less type. First make sure the gauge is right. (It probably is, but that's where you start.) Measure the head temperature where the sender is. Then you check the temperature of the hose exiting the radiator (bottom). It should not be hugely cooler than the other one, or it indicates that flow is compromised. Feel the radiator surface to see what its temperature gradient is. Water pumps fail in one of two ways. Either they leak (common), or they stop pumping well (uncommon). Bearings can fail, but that is usually closely associated with leaking. The fan clutch is difficult to diagnose, as it won't engage if the radiator is not doing its job. It's the hot air coming through the radiator that makes it grab, so lots of other problems can take it out of the picture too. That fan is of little use at freeway speeds, so if you're overheating there look elsewhere first. All that said, I'd start with the thermostat! You did remember to put it back in after the flush, right? Is it in correctly? -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
Did you re-check your coolant level? As far as flushing out every particle of rust, I did that once on a 450 SEL that I owned. This was back in the days of ignorance when I was using prestone flush. I kept flushing, running the engine till it was hot, draining and repeated the process every day for one week until coolant was clear. My chatty next door neighbor at the time warned me that if I was too aggressive I would destroy the water pump. I ignored him. 3 days later I was driving down the interstate when I heard the tell tale grating noise and abrupt rise in temperature. Pulled over and coolant was pouring out from behind the water pump. "Potter, Tom E" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: If you have rust at the water pump weep hole, coolant is escaping there (and air is possibly entering there). Change the pump. Symptoms of a bad fan clutch are overheating when not moving over ~35 mph (in traffic) and cooling down when you get the vehicle moving over ~35 mph. Continue flushing until the exiting coolant is no longer rusty. Otherwise, the rust will form a mild abrasive destroying pump seals, etc. Tom Potter -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 6:51 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush Hello All, I recently did an acid flush and the car was running fine until a few days after the flush. The car now is running hotter than *before* the flush. By that I mean getting to up over 100, which it has never done before on such short trips. Prior to this if I would drive it very hard for a while it would get to near this temp then shortly go back to 90. I am thinking that perhaps the flush dissolved or dislodged a bunch of stuff that now has somehow disabled my water pump ? The water pump is rusty at the base, not far from the weep hole, that seems unusual since the rest of the engine seems to have a nice layer of oil on it. I have been reading that one way to test for a bad water pump is to hold the top radiator hose when the engine is warm and when you release it you should feel water rushing through. I tried that but am not sure I can feel this. The other indicator is to look at the weep hole to check for water, I did not do this yet. The water from the flush was very rusty, but it has been rusty every time I have changed the coolant. A few months ago I put in a new thermostat which helped the car run cooler. I have also read that overheating can come from a bad fan clutch, not sure what that is or how to test for that. I understand that I might also have a bad radiator but I understand that one way to tell if you have a bad radiator is how fast it drains, mine drains extremely fast, just pours out. Any insight would be appreciated. Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 93kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net - How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messengers low PC-to-Phone call rates. From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tue Apr 04 13:28:50 2006 Received: from wproxy.gmail.com ([64.233.184.237]) by server5.arterytc5.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id 1FQlaU-0002sa-6s for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Tue, 04 Apr 2006 13:28:50 + Received: by wproxy.gmail.com with SMTP id i30so1369475wra for <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Tue, 04 Apr 2006 06:28:49 -0700 (PDT) DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=beta; d=gmail.com; h=received:message-id:date:from:to:subject:in-reply-to:mime-version:content-type:references; b=p98TeHI/PNsJXLy3Xc33qgboK2HUlKyg85phJOwyEt2+VWA+RFPLNBZLA/BR0zPTUWXq6AfiaFpPFd+xhAh1dww5EDvgOmbYuQkGLy57F9GJqSbg/51Qsy/WLNimbEDwIIh15yRV+qnySwxIlSqc/WmgfaOJfEEqMj7Eiw2wzik= Received: by 10.54.89.4 with SMTP id m4mr241wrb; Tue, 04 Apr 2006 06:28:40 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.54.80.9 with HTTP; Tue, 4 Apr 2006 06:28:40 -0700 (PDT) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 09:28:40 -0400 From: "andrew strasfogel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> In-Reply-To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> MIME-Version: 1.0 References: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus Content-Type: te
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
If you have rust at the water pump weep hole, coolant is escaping there (and air is possibly entering there). Change the pump. Symptoms of a bad fan clutch are overheating when not moving over ~35 mph (in traffic) and cooling down when you get the vehicle moving over ~35 mph. Continue flushing until the exiting coolant is no longer rusty. Otherwise, the rust will form a mild abrasive destroying pump seals, etc. Tom Potter -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 6:51 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush Hello All, I recently did an acid flush and the car was running fine until a few days after the flush. The car now is running hotter than *before* the flush. By that I mean getting to up over 100, which it has never done before on such short trips. Prior to this if I would drive it very hard for a while it would get to near this temp then shortly go back to 90. I am thinking that perhaps the flush dissolved or dislodged a bunch of stuff that now has somehow disabled my water pump ? The water pump is rusty at the base, not far from the weep hole, that seems unusual since the rest of the engine seems to have a nice layer of oil on it. I have been reading that one way to test for a bad water pump is to hold the top radiator hose when the engine is warm and when you release it you should feel water rushing through. I tried that but am not sure I can feel this. The other indicator is to look at the weep hole to check for water, I did not do this yet. The water from the flush was very rusty, but it has been rusty every time I have changed the coolant. A few months ago I put in a new thermostat which helped the car run cooler. I have also read that overheating can come from a bad fan clutch, not sure what that is or how to test for that. I understand that I might also have a bad radiator but I understand that one way to tell if you have a bad radiator is how fast it drains, mine drains extremely fast, just pours out. Any insight would be appreciated. Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 93kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
