Re: [MBZ] Tightening Connecting Rod bolts.

2005-09-06 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 05 Sep 2005 13:54:51 -0400 Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 The deviation from circular can not be more than 0.05 mm - that's 
 0.0002 (unless I lost a decimal point somewhere). For a new or rebored 
 block the limit is between none to 0.014mm.


Sorry, Marshall, you did lose a decimal point.


0.05 mm ~= 0.002

   0.014 mm ~= 0.00055


Nevertheless, the point about being well beyond spec is well taken.



Craig



Re: [MBZ] Tightening Connecting Rod bolts.

2005-09-06 Thread Marshall Booth

Craig McCluskey wrote:


Sorry, Marshall, you did lose a decimal point.


0.05 mm ~= 0.002

   0.014 mm ~= 0.00055


Nevertheless, the point about being well beyond spec is well taken.


I was ALMOST sure I missed a decimal point, but even with that - what 
was measured was 3X worse than Mercedes allows!


Marshall
--
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  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
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Re: [MBZ] Tightening Connecting Rod bolts.

2005-09-06 Thread dave walton
Any pointers on how to procure a rebuilt engine would be appreciated. My 
local mercedes dealer is useless - on a good day.
It is curious that the cylinder wall rim above the area of travel of the top 
piston ring is roughly as out of round as the area where the piston travels. 
It is possible that I missed a decimal point, but I doubt I'm that lucky...
Unfortunately I did not find this list until long after I had purchased the 
car. I appreciate everyone's help and patience.

Thanks

-Dave Walton


On 9/5/05, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 Craig McCluskey wrote:
 
  Sorry, Marshall, you did lose a decimal point.
 
 
  0.05 mm ~= 0.002
 
  0.014 mm ~= 0.00055
 
 
  Nevertheless, the point about being well beyond spec is well taken.
 
 I was ALMOST sure I missed a decimal point, but even with that - what
 was measured was 3X worse than Mercedes allows!
 
 Marshall
 --
 Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
 der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0
 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi
 Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
 http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Tightening Connecting Rod bolts.

2005-09-06 Thread Marshall Booth

dave walton wrote:
Any pointers on how to procure a rebuilt engine would be appreciated. My 
local mercedes dealer is useless - on a good day.
It is curious that the cylinder wall rim above the area of travel of the 
top piston ring is roughly as out of round as the area where the piston 
travels. It is possible that I missed a decimal point, but I doubt I'm 
that lucky...
Unfortunately I did not find this list until long after I had purchased 
the car. I appreciate everyone's help and patience.


Try contacting Constanine. He replaced his OM603.97 with a Mercedes 
supplied engine a few months ago. Not sure if it was new or rebuilt, 
long or short block.


Constantine N. Polites [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Dave M. had a price sheet, but his site no longer seems to be accessable.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm




Re: [MBZ] Tightening Connecting Rod bolts

2005-09-06 Thread Dave M.
Pretty sure Constantine got a factory rebuilt long block. Expect the cost to 
be $6-$7k plus labor  misc parts. Suddenly six conrods doesn't sound as 
expensive, if you already have the engine apart. Photos of that crate engine 
are here:

http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603.970_crate_engine/



Dave's site is up  running but the domain name has changed. The engine 
price PDF at this link, but I haven't updated the prices in a while... 
you'll need to call Rusty for current numbers:

http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/OM60X/OM603_rebuilt_engines.pdf


:-)

Dave M.

--
Date: Tue, 06 Sep 2005 01:23:10 -0400
From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Tightening Connecting Rod bolts.

dave walton wrote:
 Any pointers on how to procure a rebuilt engine would be appreciated. My
 local mercedes dealer is useless - on a good day.
 It is curious that the cylinder wall rim above the area of travel of the
 top piston ring is roughly as out of round as the area where the piston
 travels. It is possible that I missed a decimal point, but I doubt I'm
 that lucky...
 Unfortunately I did not find this list until long after I had purchased
 the car. I appreciate everyone's help and patience.

Try contacting Constanine. He replaced his OM603.97 with a Mercedes
supplied engine a few months ago. Not sure if it was new or rebuilt,
long or short block.

Constantine N. Polites [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Dave M. had a price sheet, but his site no longer seems to be accessable.

Marshall


Re: [MBZ] Tightening Connecting Rod bolts.

2005-09-05 Thread Marshall Booth

dave walton wrote:
I'm in the process of reassembling the engine of my S350 after replacing 
the #1 connecting rod. The manual states a torque of 90Nm for the 
connecting rod bolts. I am finding that they peak at about 70-73Nm for a 
full turn. It just does not feel right that I should take them all the 
way to 90Nm. My instinct says to leave them alone after 1/2 - 3/4 turn 
at a steady 70Nm. Should I be measuring bolt stretch instead? I don't 
see anything in the manual about that, however...


Any thoughts appreciated.

-Dave Walton


You seem to have misread or misinterpreted the specifications. The first 
stage tightening is 40 Nm for a used conrod and 45 Nm for a new one. 
Then the bolt is turned precisely 90 deg. further.


I've attached the appropriate pages from the manual.

PLEASE check the bolt dimensions if you've turned them more than 90 deg. 
- they may be stretched.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm


03-6111aw.pdf
Description: Adobe PDF document


Re: [MBZ] Tightening Connecting Rod bolts.

2005-09-05 Thread dave walton
Yes, it's apart. I love the car, but hate the engine.
I originally removed the head because of wicked oil burning that turned out 
to be caused by a blown head gasket. The #1 cylinder was not coming up as 
much as the others, so I pulled the engine. The #1 connecting rod is bent, 
but the cylinders are not ovaled much. All are within .006 of round. The #1 
cylinder is indeed the most ovaled, but the original honing marks are still 
visible all around the cylinder wall, so I'm going to live with it and hope 
for the best. 

I just got a digital caliper and remeasured everything. The #1 rod is
0.36mmshorter than the new one. It is also slightly bent to the side
and ever so
slightly twisted. The opening for the bottom bearing has enlarged
0.07mmhorizontally and
0.02mm vertically.

-Dave Walton

On 9/4/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]  wrote:
 
 You took your 3.5 apart? Did you get any ovaling of the cylinders? Was 
 the rod bent before or did you do it as a precaution?
 
 dave walton wrote:
 
  I'm in the process of reassembling the engine of my S350 after replacing
  the #1 connecting rod. The manual states a torque of 90Nm for the 
  connecting rod bolts. I am finding that they peak at about 70-73Nm for a
  full turn. It just does not feel right that I should take them all the
  way to 90Nm. My instinct says to leave them alone after 1/2 - 3/4 turn 
  at a steady 70Nm. Should I be measuring bolt stretch instead? I don't
  see anything in the manual about that, however...
 
  Any thoughts appreciated.
 
  -Dave Walton
 
  
 
 
  
 
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 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Tightening Connecting Rod bolts.

2005-09-05 Thread dave walton
Oops, my bad.
Even if the bolts are in spec, I'm tossing them. I suppose I could use the 2 
that were originally on the #1 rod, but that's probably bad karma or 
something.

Thanks much for the correction Marshall.

-Dave Walton

On 9/4/05, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 dave walton wrote:
  I'm in the process of reassembling the engine of my S350 after replacing
  the #1 connecting rod. The manual states a torque of 90Nm for the
  connecting rod bolts. I am finding that they peak at about 70-73Nm for a
  full turn. It just does not feel right that I should take them all the
  way to 90Nm. My instinct says to leave them alone after 1/2 - 3/4 turn
  at a steady 70Nm. Should I be measuring bolt stretch instead? I don't
  see anything in the manual about that, however...
 
  Any thoughts appreciated.
 
  -Dave Walton
 
 You seem to have misread or misinterpreted the specifications. The first
 stage tightening is 40 Nm for a used conrod and 45 Nm for a new one.
 Then the bolt is turned precisely 90 deg. further.
 
 I've attached the appropriate pages from the manual.
 
 PLEASE check the bolt dimensions if you've turned them more than 90 deg.
 - they may be stretched.
 
 Marshall
 --
 Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
 der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0
 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi
 Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
 http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
 
 
 ___
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
 
 
 



Re: [MBZ] Tightening Connecting Rod bolts.

2005-09-05 Thread Rick Knoble
If it's apart, I would change ALL the rods. I wouldn't call it cheap 
insurance , but it is insurance. The rest of the rods will bend eventually. I 
would also upgrade anything the factory changed on their replacement engines. I 
don't know what changes were made, but it is likely someone here does. 
Just my 02¢
Rick Knoble
1985 300 CD
  - Original Message - 
  From: dave walton 
  To: Mercedes mailing list 
  Sent: Monday, September 05, 2005 5:34 AM
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Tightening Connecting Rod bolts.


  Yes, it's apart. I love the car, but hate the engine.
  I originally removed the head because of wicked oil burning that turned out 
to be caused by a blown head gasket. The #1 cylinder was not coming up as much 
as the others, so I pulled the engine. The #1 connecting rod is bent, but the 
cylinders are not ovaled much. All are within .006 of round. The #1 cylinder 
is indeed the most ovaled, but the original honing marks are still visible all 
around the cylinder wall, so I'm going to live with it and hope for the best. 

  I just got a digital caliper and remeasured everything. The #1 rod is 0.36mm 
shorter than the new one. It is also slightly bent to the side and ever so 
slightly twisted. The opening for the bottom bearing has enlarged 0.07mm 
horizontally and 0.02mm vertically.

  -Dave Walton



Re: [MBZ] Tightening Connecting Rod bolts.

2005-09-05 Thread dave walton
I'd love to hear more details about the Mercedes rebuild procedures. It's 
the least they could do after dumping these piece of shit engines on us.
I've lost count of the number of people I've talked out of buying a 
mercedes. A friend just bought a maybach despite my warnings. It's spent 
more time in the shop than in his driveway.
No wonder their brand in on the decline in the US.

I would not say replacing all the rods is cheap. Dealer price on a set 
with upper and lower bearings is  $1400.

Thanks

-Dave Walton


On 9/5/05, Rick Knoble [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 If it's apart, I would change ALL the rods. I wouldn't call it cheap 
 insurance , but it is insurance. The rest of the rods will bend eventually. 
 I would also upgrade anything the factory changed on their replacement 
 engines. I don't know what changes were made, but it is likely someone here 
 does. 
 Just my 02¢
 Rick Knoble
 1985 300 CD
 
 - Original Message - 
 *From:* dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 *To:* Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 *Sent:* Monday, September 05, 2005 5:34 AM
 *Subject:* Re: [MBZ] Tightening Connecting Rod bolts.
 
 Yes, it's apart. I love the car, but hate the engine.
 I originally removed the head because of wicked oil burning that turned 
 out to be caused by a blown head gasket. The #1 cylinder was not coming up 
 as much as the others, so I pulled the engine. The #1 connecting rod is 
 bent, but the cylinders are not ovaled much. All are within .006 of round. 
 The #1 cylinder is indeed the most ovaled, but the original honing marks are 
 still visible all around the cylinder wall, so I'm going to live with it and 
 hope for the best. 
 
 I just got a digital caliper and remeasured everything. The #1 rod is 
 0.36mm shorter than the new one. It is also slightly bent to the side and 
 ever so slightly twisted. The opening for the bottom bearing has enlarged 
 0.07mm horizontally and 0.02mm vertically.
 
 -Dave Walton
 
 
 ___
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] Tightening Connecting Rod bolts.

2005-09-05 Thread Rick Knoble
At that price, I'd be looking at prices for a factory replacement engine. I 
have been an avid reader/seldom poster on these lists for some time and the 
general consensus on the W140 chassis diesels is that they are wonderful cars, 
but you have to factor in the cost of a replacement engine into the cost of 
ownership. Period. Too bad you didn't join the list before your purchase. It 
may have saved you some grief.
Rick Knoble
1985 300 CD

  I would not say replacing all the rods is cheap. Dealer price on a set with 
upper and lower bearings is  $1400.

  Thanks

  -Dave Walton



Re: [MBZ] Tightening Connecting Rod bolts.

2005-09-05 Thread JabbaHursty
as i have said many times before, in ten years, 
old benz owners will be looked at the same way we looked at jaguar owners.



At 11:58 AM 9/5/2005, you wrote:
I'd love to hear more details about the Mercedes 
rebuild procedures. It's the least they could do 
after dumping these piece of shit engines on us.
I've lost count of the number of people I've 
talked out of buying a mercedes. A friend just 
bought a maybach despite my warnings. It's spent 
more time in the shop than in his driveway.

No wonder their brand in on the decline in the US.

I would not say replacing all the rods is 
cheap. Dealer price on a set with upper and lower bearings is  $1400.


Thanks

-Dave Walton


On 9/5/05, Rick Knoble 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
If it's apart, I would change ALL the rods. I 
wouldn't call it cheap insurance , but it is 
insurance. The rest of the rods will bend 
eventually. I would also upgrade anything the 
factory changed on their replacement engines. I 
don't know what changes were made, but it is likely someone here does.

Just my 02¢
Rick Knoble
1985 300 CD
- Original Message -
From: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]dave walton
To: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Mercedes mailing list
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2005 5:34 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Tightening Connecting Rod bolts.

Yes, it's apart. I love the car, but hate the engine.
I originally removed the head because of wicked 
oil burning that turned out to be caused by a 
blown head gasket. The #1 cylinder was not 
coming up as much as the others, so I pulled the 
engine. The #1 connecting rod is bent, but the 
cylinders are not ovaled much. All are within 
.006 of round. The #1 cylinder is indeed the 
most ovaled, but the original honing marks are 
still visible all around the cylinder wall, so 
I'm going to live with it and hope for the best.


I just got a digital caliper and remeasured 
everything. The #1 rod is 0.36mm shorter than 
the new one. It is also slightly bent to the 
side and ever so slightly twisted. The opening 
for the bottom bearing has enlarged 0.07mm horizontally and 0.02mm vertically.


-Dave Walton


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Re: [MBZ] Tightening Connecting Rod bolts.

2005-09-05 Thread Marshall Booth

dave walton wrote:

Yes, it's apart. I love the car, but hate the engine.
I originally removed the head because of wicked oil burning that turned 
out to be caused by a blown head gasket. The #1 cylinder was not coming 
up as much as the others, so I pulled the engine. The #1 connecting rod 
is bent, but the cylinders are not ovaled much. All are within .006 of 
round. The #1 cylinder is indeed the most ovaled, but the original 
honing marks are still visible all around the cylinder wall, so I'm 
going to live with it and hope for the best.


I just got a digital caliper and remeasured everything. The #1 rod is 
0.36mm shorter than the new one. It is also slightly bent to the side 
and ever so slightly twisted. The opening for the bottom bearing has 
enlarged 0.07mm horizontally and 0.02mm vertically.


The deviation from circular can not be more than 0.05 mm - that's 
0.0002 (unless I lost a decimal point somewhere). For a new or rebored 
block the limit is between none to 0.014mm.


Your measured deviation of 0.006 from cylindrical is about 30 times 
greater than the worst case Mercedes permits. When you're all done you 
will have HIGH oil consumption with the cylinder profile that far off.


I've attached the workshop sheets for cylinder wall and you already have 
the conrod sheet.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm


01-9202aw.pdf
Description: Adobe PDF document


Re: [MBZ] Tightening Connecting Rod bolts.

2005-09-04 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
You took your 3.5 apart?  Did you get any ovaling of the cylinders?  Was 
the rod bent before or did you do it as a precaution?


dave walton wrote:

I'm in the process of reassembling the engine of my S350 after replacing 
the #1 connecting rod. The manual states a torque of 90Nm for the 
connecting rod bolts. I am finding that they peak at about 70-73Nm for a 
full turn. It just does not feel right that I should take them all the 
way to 90Nm. My instinct says to leave them alone after 1/2 - 3/4 turn 
at a steady 70Nm. Should I be measuring bolt stretch instead? I don't 
see anything in the manual about that, however...


Any thoughts appreciated.

-Dave Walton






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 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
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