Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-28 Thread JFreezn
 
In a message dated 4/28/2008 9:26:31 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Got a  bad driveshaft vibration going down the highway.  Would it be best 
to  A: just swap in a complete driveshaft from a different car, B: pull  
driveshaft and have it balanced, or C: just keep moving the center  
section one notch at a time till it gets lined back up like it should  
be.  Apparantly it was seperated at some point and not  marked.



kaleb,
 
If this is your 560, somewhere about 88 they started match marking the two  
pieces of drive shaft at the factory.  That don't mean yours is assembled  
right, it could have been assembled by someone with no concern for match  
marks.  
You have to have the drive shaft out to see the marks.  Before  removing it, 
seize the drive shaft near the support bearing and try to move it  up and down. 
 anymore than about an 1/8" of movement means the rubber  support is shot.
 
Good luck,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles 
98 ML 320, 155 K  miles




**Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car 
listings at AOL Autos.  
(http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp0030002851)
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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-28 Thread Jim Cathey
> Got a bad driveshaft vibration going down the highway.  Would it be 
> best
> to A: just swap in a complete driveshaft from a different car, B: pull
> driveshaft and have it balanced, or C: just keep moving the center
> section one notch at a time till it gets lined back up like it should
> be.  Apparantly it was seperated at some point and not marked.

You don't say on what.  Past about '80 or so the mark
is cast into the metal.  C sucks, there's something like
27 different positions to try and as I've found, it seems
like there are 26 wrong positions.  Perhaps D?  See:

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/JSLdline.html

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-28 Thread Harry Watkins
Check the u-joint close up.  Mine was bad but it took a close look to see
where it cracked open.  I would select "A" if in your shoes, then do "B" if
I ever got in a tight for another one.

Harry

On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 11:26 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> Got a bad driveshaft vibration going down the highway.  Would it be best
> to A: just swap in a complete driveshaft from a different car, B: pull
> driveshaft and have it balanced, or C: just keep moving the center
> section one notch at a time till it gets lined back up like it should
> be.  Apparantly it was seperated at some point and not marked.
> --
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
>  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
>  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
>  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread Kevin
This was going to be my suggestion as well. Check parts that could wear
before assuming someone was stupid. If the parts are broken, you'll need to
replace them anyways.

That failing, if you have a complete prop shaft that is known to be good,
I'd probably swap that in rather than trying to remember enough high
school math to calculate out the number of wrong attempts I'll have to make
before I get the thing to work.

Jim balanced his at home. I think I'd rig up some sort of driveshaft launcher
to torment the neighbors long before I did something that creative AND useful.


On Tue, Apr 29, 2008 at 12:54:43AM -0500, Harry Watkins wrote:
> Check the u-joint close up.  Mine was bad but it took a close look to see
> where it cracked open.  I would select "A" if in your shoes, then do "B" if
> I ever got in a tight for another one.
> 
> Harry

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread LWB250
You know how much I struggled with the driveshaft
vibration in the 250LWB - that went on for over two
years.

First, give it a good visual inspection - drive shafts
don't "go bad."  If you find the offending part, like
a bad U joint, mark everything like a maniac and take
it somewhere to get the job done.

Look carefully for the alignment arrows on all the
parts.  If some dillweed had it out and wasn't paying
attention, they could have reassembled it incorrectly.
 Look at the manuals for pictures of the arrows -
they're nearly impossible to see unless you know what
you're looking for.

I would caution you against the "just one more spline
and I've got it" approach, unless you have the
patience of Job and a good part of Eternity available.

Dan (BTDT and NEVER want to go back)


--- "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Got a bad driveshaft vibration going down the
> highway.  Would it be best 
> to A: just swap in a complete driveshaft from a
> different car, B: pull 
> driveshaft and have it balanced, or C: just keep
> moving the center 
> section one notch at a time till it gets lined back
> up like it should 
> be.  Apparantly it was seperated at some point and
> not marked.
> -- 



  

Be a better friend, newshound, and 
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.  
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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
No its a 87 300SDL

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>  
> In a message dated 4/28/2008 9:26:31 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> 
> Got a  bad driveshaft vibration going down the highway.  Would it be best 
> to  A: just swap in a complete driveshaft from a different car, B: pull  
> driveshaft and have it balanced, or C: just keep moving the center  
> section one notch at a time till it gets lined back up like it should  
> be.  Apparantly it was seperated at some point and not  marked.
> 
> 
> 
> kaleb,
>  
> If this is your 560, somewhere about 88 they started match marking the two  
> pieces of drive shaft at the factory.  That don't mean yours is assembled  
> right, it could have been assembled by someone with no concern for match  
> marks.  
> You have to have the drive shaft out to see the marks.  Before  removing it, 
> seize the drive shaft near the support bearing and try to move it  up and 
> down. 
>  anymore than about an 1/8" of movement means the rubber  support is shot.
>  
> Good luck,  
> 
> Jim  Friesen
> Phoenix AZ
> 79 300SD, 264 K miles 
> 98 ML 320, 155 K  miles
> 
> 
> 
> 
> **Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car 
> listings at AOL Autos.  
> (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp0030002851)
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Man that sure seems beyond my "rigging" skills

Jim Cathey wrote:
>> Got a bad driveshaft vibration going down the highway.  Would it be 
>> best
>> to A: just swap in a complete driveshaft from a different car, B: pull
>> driveshaft and have it balanced, or C: just keep moving the center
>> section one notch at a time till it gets lined back up like it should
>> be.  Apparantly it was seperated at some point and not marked.
> 
> You don't say on what.  Past about '80 or so the mark
> is cast into the metal.  C sucks, there's something like
> 27 different positions to try and as I've found, it seems
> like there are 26 wrong positions.  Perhaps D?  See:
> 
>   http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/JSLdline.html
> 
> -- Jim
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Well this is OK Dons old SDL, he said somebody had it apart and didnt 
put it back right, cant remember all of what he told me.  So by this 
year are the halves supposed to be marked?  That would sure make life 
MUCH easier.

LWB250 wrote:
> You know how much I struggled with the driveshaft
> vibration in the 250LWB - that went on for over two
> years.
> 
> First, give it a good visual inspection - drive shafts
> don't "go bad."  If you find the offending part, like
> a bad U joint, mark everything like a maniac and take
> it somewhere to get the job done.
> 
> Look carefully for the alignment arrows on all the
> parts.  If some dillweed had it out and wasn't paying
> attention, they could have reassembled it incorrectly.
>  Look at the manuals for pictures of the arrows -
> they're nearly impossible to see unless you know what
> you're looking for.
> 
> I would caution you against the "just one more spline
> and I've got it" approach, unless you have the
> patience of Job and a good part of Eternity available.
> 
> Dan (BTDT and NEVER want to go back)
> 
> 
> --- "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
>> Got a bad driveshaft vibration going down the
>> highway.  Would it be best 
>> to A: just swap in a complete driveshaft from a
>> different car, B: pull 
>> driveshaft and have it balanced, or C: just keep
>> moving the center 
>> section one notch at a time till it gets lined back
>> up like it should 
>> be.  Apparantly it was seperated at some point and
>> not marked.
>> -- 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> Be a better friend, newshound, and 
> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.  
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread Luther
I'll trade you mine for it straight up

Luther

On Tue, 29 Apr 2008 11:20:00 -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Well this is OK Dons old SDL, he said somebody had it apart and didnt
> put it back right, cant remember all of what he told me.  So by this
> year are the halves supposed to be marked?  That would sure make life
> MUCH easier.
>
>



-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (166 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread LWB250
Drive shafts were marked as far back as 84 if not
earlier.  I see no reason why they wouldn't have
always been marked, as they have always been assembled
and tested as a unit.

Dig out a service manual or a CD and look at the
section on drive shafts to see what the marks look
like.  I can't do them justice here, suffice to say
the one on the yoke of the U joint is cast in the yoke
and the one on the drive shaft tube is a stamping with
two parallel lines and a "^" at the end to form an
arrow of sorts.

Once you see a picture you'll know what to look for.

Dan

--- "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Well this is OK Dons old SDL, he said somebody had
> it apart and didnt 
> put it back right, cant remember all of what he told
> me.  So by this 
> year are the halves supposed to be marked?  That
> would sure make life 
> MUCH easier.
> 
> LWB250 wrote:
> > You know how much I struggled with the driveshaft
> > vibration in the 250LWB - that went on for over
> two
> > years.
> > 
> > First, give it a good visual inspection - drive
> shafts
> > don't "go bad."  If you find the offending part,
> like
> > a bad U joint, mark everything like a maniac and
> take
> > it somewhere to get the job done.
> > 
> > Look carefully for the alignment arrows on all the
> > parts.  If some dillweed had it out and wasn't
> paying
> > attention, they could have reassembled it
> incorrectly.
> >  Look at the manuals for pictures of the arrows -
> > they're nearly impossible to see unless you know
> what
> > you're looking for.
> > 
> > I would caution you against the "just one more
> spline
> > and I've got it" approach, unless you have the
> > patience of Job and a good part of Eternity
> available.
> > 
> > Dan (BTDT and NEVER want to go back)
> > 
> > 
> > --- "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> > 
> >> Got a bad driveshaft vibration going down the
> >> highway.  Would it be best 
> >> to A: just swap in a complete driveshaft from a
> >> different car, B: pull 
> >> driveshaft and have it balanced, or C: just keep
> >> moving the center 
> >> section one notch at a time till it gets lined
> back
> >> up like it should 
> >> be.  Apparantly it was seperated at some point
> and
> >> not marked.
> >> -- 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >  
>

> > Be a better friend, newshound, and 
> > know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now. 
>
http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
> > 
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > 
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >
>
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> > 
> 
> -- 
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>   94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
> 91 300D,
>   89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE
> 5.0 Euro,
>   84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76
> 240D,
>   76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 



  

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know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.  
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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Thanks, will check it out.  Didnt know they were marked, so that should 
be easy.

LWB250 wrote:
> Drive shafts were marked as far back as 84 if not
> earlier.  I see no reason why they wouldn't have
> always been marked, as they have always been assembled
> and tested as a unit.
> 
> Dig out a service manual or a CD and look at the
> section on drive shafts to see what the marks look
> like.  I can't do them justice here, suffice to say
> the one on the yoke of the U joint is cast in the yoke
> and the one on the drive shaft tube is a stamping with
> two parallel lines and a "^" at the end to form an
> arrow of sorts.
> 
> Once you see a picture you'll know what to look for.
> 
> Dan
> 
> --- "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
>> Well this is OK Dons old SDL, he said somebody had
>> it apart and didnt 
>> put it back right, cant remember all of what he told
>> me.  So by this 
>> year are the halves supposed to be marked?  That
>> would sure make life 
>> MUCH easier.
>>
>> LWB250 wrote:
>>> You know how much I struggled with the driveshaft
>>> vibration in the 250LWB - that went on for over
>> two
>>> years.
>>>
>>> First, give it a good visual inspection - drive
>> shafts
>>> don't "go bad."  If you find the offending part,
>> like
>>> a bad U joint, mark everything like a maniac and
>> take
>>> it somewhere to get the job done.
>>>
>>> Look carefully for the alignment arrows on all the
>>> parts.  If some dillweed had it out and wasn't
>> paying
>>> attention, they could have reassembled it
>> incorrectly.
>>>  Look at the manuals for pictures of the arrows -
>>> they're nearly impossible to see unless you know
>> what
>>> you're looking for.
>>>
>>> I would caution you against the "just one more
>> spline
>>> and I've got it" approach, unless you have the
>>> patience of Job and a good part of Eternity
>> available.
>>> Dan (BTDT and NEVER want to go back)
>>>
>>>
>>> --- "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> wrote:
 Got a bad driveshaft vibration going down the
 highway.  Would it be best 
 to A: just swap in a complete driveshaft from a
 different car, B: pull 
 driveshaft and have it balanced, or C: just keep
 moving the center 
 section one notch at a time till it gets lined
>> back
 up like it should 
 be.  Apparantly it was seperated at some point
>> and
 not marked.
 -- 
>>>
>>>
>>>  
> 
>>> Be a better friend, newshound, and 
>>> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now. 
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> For new parts see official list sponsor:
>> http://www.buymbparts.com/
>>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>>
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> -- 
>> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>>   94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
>> 91 300D,
>>   89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE
>> 5.0 Euro,
>>   84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76
>> 240D,
>>   76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new parts see official list sponsor:
>> http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> Be a better friend, newshound, and 
> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.  
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread LWB250
In a situation like this, where you've got vibration
but you don't know the (whole) history, your best bet
is to inspect the whole drive shaft, make sure
everything is lined up properly, and after you're
satisfied that it is, if the vibration persists, pull
the whole thing out and take it to a shop that can
balance it.

Trust me, you can spend years trying to sort this out
on your own.  A good example of leaving something to a
professional.

Dan



--- "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Thanks, will check it out.  Didnt know they were
> marked, so that should 
> be easy.
> 
> LWB250 wrote:
> > Drive shafts were marked as far back as 84 if not
> > earlier.  I see no reason why they wouldn't have
> > always been marked, as they have always been
> assembled
> > and tested as a unit.
> > 
> > Dig out a service manual or a CD and look at the
> > section on drive shafts to see what the marks look
> > like.  I can't do them justice here, suffice to
> say
> > the one on the yoke of the U joint is cast in the
> yoke
> > and the one on the drive shaft tube is a stamping
> with
> > two parallel lines and a "^" at the end to form an
> > arrow of sorts.
> > 
> > Once you see a picture you'll know what to look
> for.
> > 
> > Dan
> > 
> > --- "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> > 
> >> Well this is OK Dons old SDL, he said somebody
> had
> >> it apart and didnt 
> >> put it back right, cant remember all of what he
> told
> >> me.  So by this 
> >> year are the halves supposed to be marked?  That
> >> would sure make life 
> >> MUCH easier.
> >>
> >> LWB250 wrote:
> >>> You know how much I struggled with the
> driveshaft
> >>> vibration in the 250LWB - that went on for over
> >> two
> >>> years.
> >>>
> >>> First, give it a good visual inspection - drive
> >> shafts
> >>> don't "go bad."  If you find the offending part,
> >> like
> >>> a bad U joint, mark everything like a maniac and
> >> take
> >>> it somewhere to get the job done.
> >>>
> >>> Look carefully for the alignment arrows on all
> the
> >>> parts.  If some dillweed had it out and wasn't
> >> paying
> >>> attention, they could have reassembled it
> >> incorrectly.
> >>>  Look at the manuals for pictures of the arrows
> -
> >>> they're nearly impossible to see unless you know
> >> what
> >>> you're looking for.
> >>>
> >>> I would caution you against the "just one more
> >> spline
> >>> and I've got it" approach, unless you have the
> >>> patience of Job and a good part of Eternity
> >> available.
> >>> Dan (BTDT and NEVER want to go back)
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> --- "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> wrote:
>  Got a bad driveshaft vibration going down the
>  highway.  Would it be best 
>  to A: just swap in a complete driveshaft from a
>  different car, B: pull 
>  driveshaft and have it balanced, or C: just
> keep
>  moving the center 
>  section one notch at a time till it gets lined
> >> back
>  up like it should 
>  be.  Apparantly it was seperated at some point
> >> and
>  not marked.
>  -- 
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>  
> >
>

> >>> Be a better friend, newshound, and 
> >>> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now. 
> >
>
http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
> >>> ___
> >>> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >>> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> >> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> >>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >>>
> >>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >>>
> >
>
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> >> -- 
> >> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> >>   94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E
> 4Matic,
> >> 91 300D,
> >>   89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85
> 380SE
> >> 5.0 Euro,
> >>   84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D,
> 76
> >> 240D,
> >>   76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >>
> >> ___
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> >> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> >> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >>
> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >>
> >
>
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >  
>

> > Be a better friend, newshound, and 
> > know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now. 
>
http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
> > 
> > ___
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> > For new parts see official list sponsor:
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> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > 
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >
>
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> > 
> 
> -- 
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>   94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo

Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread Mitch Haley


LWB250 wrote:
> 
> In a situation like this, where you've got vibration
> but you don't know the (whole) history...

I'm wondering if maybe somebody assembled a driveshaft out
of parts from two driveshafts. That would make the matchmarks
useless. 

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread Rolf
I missed the beginning of this, did it suddenly occur following car
work? Have the carrier bear/bushing / flexdisks / transmounts all been
inspected?

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread LWB250
True, but you'll never know until you get the marks
aligned to begin with.

My point was to get a point of reference and then go
from there.  You have to assume nothing is right to
begin with

Dan


--- Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I'm wondering if maybe somebody assembled a
> driveshaft out
> of parts from two driveshafts. That would make the
> matchmarks
> useless. 
> 
> Mitch.
> 



  

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
oh yea, I will inspect for sure.  Im sure it just needs to have the 
marks lined up though.  I cant for the life of me remember what OK Don 
told me about that

LWB250 wrote:
> In a situation like this, where you've got vibration
> but you don't know the (whole) history, your best bet
> is to inspect the whole drive shaft, make sure
> everything is lined up properly, and after you're
> satisfied that it is, if the vibration persists, pull
> the whole thing out and take it to a shop that can
> balance it.
> 
> Trust me, you can spend years trying to sort this out
> on your own.  A good example of leaving something to a
> professional.
> 
> Dan
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I just got the car, was told something was replaced or something and the 
shaft was apart then and not put back togehter correctly

Rolf wrote:
> I missed the beginning of this, did it suddenly occur following car
> work? Have the carrier bear/bushing / flexdisks / transmounts all been
> inspected?
> 
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread Peter Frederick
In order:

Check for damage to the shaft (even a dent will make it shake).

Check for condition of flex disks -- any cracks, replace.

Check center carrier and bearing -- a bad bearing can sound like a  
bad muffler, and the vibration will be centered on the carrier, right  
at the rear of the front seats.  You will be able to feel the floor  
shake if it's the carrier or bearing.

Check the u-joint.  This is probably the first thing that is likely  
to be bad other than the carrier bearing rubber mount, but you have  
to take the shaft out to check it.  It must be smooth through the  
entire arc of movement -- typically there is a catch at a much wider  
angle than it will every operate in the car, but it that catch is  
there, it will drum.  Usually sounds like a bad muffler, but varies  
with road speed and not engine speed.

If it's worse, shaking the whole car, the center joint is bad or the  
carrier rubber is shot, allowing the shaft to orbit rather than spin  
on center.  You won't mistake it for a bad bearing.

For repair, if you have a known good shaft, the easy thing it to just  
swap it in with new flex disks, bearing, and carrier.  Problem gone.   
If you don't have a good shaft, check the carrier and u-joint., but  
you CANNOT replace the u-joint unless you have both a centering  
fixture to strake the new on in exactly centered AND a balancing  
machine with the correct adapters for MB drive shafts.  Last price I  
heard some time ago was $650, probably higher now, for a joint  
replacement/balance.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
thanks!!

Peter Frederick wrote:
> In order:
> 
> Check for damage to the shaft (even a dent will make it shake).
> 
> Check for condition of flex disks -- any cracks, replace.
> 
> Check center carrier and bearing -- a bad bearing can sound like a  
> bad muffler, and the vibration will be centered on the carrier, right  
> at the rear of the front seats.  You will be able to feel the floor  
> shake if it's the carrier or bearing.
> 
> Check the u-joint.  This is probably the first thing that is likely  
> to be bad other than the carrier bearing rubber mount, but you have  
> to take the shaft out to check it.  It must be smooth through the  
> entire arc of movement -- typically there is a catch at a much wider  
> angle than it will every operate in the car, but it that catch is  
> there, it will drum.  Usually sounds like a bad muffler, but varies  
> with road speed and not engine speed.
> 
> If it's worse, shaking the whole car, the center joint is bad or the  
> carrier rubber is shot, allowing the shaft to orbit rather than spin  
> on center.  You won't mistake it for a bad bearing.
> 
> For repair, if you have a known good shaft, the easy thing it to just  
> swap it in with new flex disks, bearing, and carrier.  Problem gone.   
> If you don't have a good shaft, check the carrier and u-joint., but  
> you CANNOT replace the u-joint unless you have both a centering  
> fixture to strake the new on in exactly centered AND a balancing  
> machine with the correct adapters for MB drive shafts.  Last price I  
> heard some time ago was $650, probably higher now, for a joint  
> replacement/balance.
> 
> Peter
> 
> 
> ___
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread OK Don
I told you that the engine was replaced by the PO - prior to me - and
that it has had the vibration as long as I had it. I was considering
using the two hose clamps balancing method - just move one relative to
the other until it stops shaking. However, I just drove above or
(sometimes) below the speed it vibrates at, rather than mess with it -
must be part of getting older.

On Tue, Apr 29, 2008 at 6:47 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> oh yea, I will inspect for sure.  Im sure it just needs to have the
>  marks lined up though.  I cant for the life of me remember what OK Don
>  told me about that


-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics."
-Benjamin Disraeli and/or Mark Twain
'92 300D, '90 300D, ' '81 240D, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread Jim Cathey
> Well this is OK Dons old SDL, he said somebody had it apart and didnt
> put it back right, cant remember all of what he told me.  So by this
> year are the halves supposed to be marked?  That would sure make life
> MUCH easier.

As I mentioned before, by this time they were certainly marked
at the factory.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread Jim Cathey
> Man that sure seems beyond my "rigging" skills

A 2x6 and some C-clamps?  Not rocket science!
Try looking for misaligned marks first, though.  :-)

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-30 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
yea, thats it.  I knew the engine was replaced, but couldnt remember 
that was what lead to the driveshaft being seperated.  Im going to get 
under there this weekend and see if I can line it up

OK Don wrote:
> I told you that the engine was replaced by the PO - prior to me - and
> that it has had the vibration as long as I had it. I was considering
> using the two hose clamps balancing method - just move one relative to
> the other until it stops shaking. However, I just drove above or
> (sometimes) below the speed it vibrates at, rather than mess with it -
> must be part of getting older.
> 
> On Tue, Apr 29, 2008 at 6:47 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> oh yea, I will inspect for sure.  Im sure it just needs to have the
>>  marks lined up though.  I cant for the life of me remember what OK Don
>>  told me about that
> 
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-30 Thread LWB250
Kaleb knows this story, but for the benefit of those who don't
   
  I had a 250LWB, which is a 123 chassis that's been stretched (by the factory) 
for use as a taxi.  This particular chassis, due to the length, has a three 
piece drive shaft, meaning two flex disk, two center bearings, and three 
sections.
   
  I don't recall what precipitated the problem, but it developed (or may have 
had it when I got it) vibration at certain speeds.  I found a bum center 
bearing and carrier and replaced it.  No joy.  I replaced the second center 
bearing and carrier.  Still no relief.  I R&R'ed it, checked the marks, 
reassembled, nada.
   
  This took place over the course of several months.  By the final time I 
R&R'ed the whole thing (I was getting really good at it!) I found what I 
suspected was a bad U joint.  Knowing that the process for replacing MB U 
joints was a very specialized one, I went to my local drive shaft repair house 
and talked to them about it.
   
  "Heck, there's nothing special about that - we do it all the time!"
   
  They had to ship it to their Miami location, since the shop here in Tampa 
didn't have a balancer that could handle the length of my shaft.  No additional 
charge to do this, just a couple of days and it was back.
   
  I get the shaft in pieces, load it up, take it home and lay it out on the 
garage floor for reassembly.  Guess what?  They didn't put match marks on the 
pieces. Damn.
   
  I called them up and was assured that it didn't matter, as they had balanced 
it as separate sections as well as a complete shaft.  What?  They also said 
that if I installed it and it still had vibration to bring it back, they would 
rebalance it, and send it back with match marks.
   
  That's ultimately what happened.  A real PITA, but after nearly two years I 
didn't have this horrendous vibration around 10 mph that sounded like it was 
going to tear open the floor just above the second center bearing.
   
  I still have a box of the locknuts for the flex disk bolts as a reminder
   
  Dan
   
  

OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  I told you that the engine was replaced by the PO - prior to me - and
that it has had the vibration as long as I had it. I was considering
using the two hose clamps balancing method - just move one relative to
the other until it stops shaking. However, I just drove above or
(sometimes) below the speed it vibrates at, rather than mess with it -
must be part of getting older.

   
-
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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-30 Thread archer

Do you recall the name of the drive shaft repair place in Tampa, Dan?

I have a vibration at speeds over about 55mph on my '83 300D  which I hope 
will be cured by replacing a bad axle and noisy differential.
The differential I got locally was unbolted at the flex disc which looks 
newer than the one on the car.  Are there any kind of alignment marks or 
special things to watch out for if I just bolt the drive shaft on to the 
flex disc that's already mounted on the differential?
Thanks,
Gerry
'83 300D and 240D
--
From: "LWB250" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>  I had a 250LWB, which is a 123 chassis that's been stretched (by the 
> factory) for use as a taxi.  This particular chassis, due to the length, 
> has a three piece drive shaft, meaning two flex disk, two center bearings, 
> and three sections.
>  I don't recall what precipitated the problem, but it developed (or may 
> have had it when I got it) vibration at certain speeds.  I found a bum 
> center bearing and carrier and replaced it.  No joy.  I replaced the 
> second center bearing and carrier.  Still no relief.  I R&R'ed it, checked 
> the marks, reassembled, nada.
>  This took place over the course of several months.  By the final time I 
> R&R'ed the whole thing (I was getting really good at it!) I found what I 
> suspected was a bad U joint.  Knowing that the process for replacing MB U 
> joints was a very specialized one, I went to my local drive shaft repair 
> house and talked to them about it.
>  "Heck, there's nothing special about that - we do it all the time!"
>  They had to ship it to their Miami location, since the shop here in Tampa 
> didn't have a balancer that could handle the length of my shaft.  No 
> additional charge to do this, just a couple of days and it was back.
  I get the shaft in pieces, load it up, take it home and lay it out on the 
garage floor for reassembly.  Guess what?  They didn't put match marks on 
the pieces. Damn.
>  I called them up and was assured that it didn't matter, as they had 
> balanced it as separate sections as well as a complete shaft.  What?  They 
> also said that if I installed it and it still had vibration to bring it 
> back, they would rebalance it, and send it back with match marks.
>  That's ultimately what happened.  A real PITA, but after nearly two years 
> I didn't have this horrendous vibration around 10 mph that sounded like it 
> was going to tear open the floor just above the second center bearing.
>  I still have a box of the locknuts for the flex disk bolts as a 
> reminder
>  Dan


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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-30 Thread Mitch Haley
archer wrote:
> newer than the one on the car.  Are there any kind of alignment marks or
> special things to watch out for if I just bolt the drive shaft on to the
> flex disc that's already mounted on the differential?

Should just bolt up. Did your new diff come from a 82-85 turbo?
If the donor was a '85, do you have the '85 speedometer/odometer
to go with it?

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-30 Thread LWB250
These are the guys.  They're more into truck and heavy equipment stuff, but 
they did a good job and worked with me to get it right.
   
  Florida Powertrain & Hydraulics Inc 
6501 Adamo Dr | Tampa, FL 33619 
PH: (813) 623-6713 | FX: (813) 623-6713 


archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  
Do you recall the name of the drive shaft repair place in Tampa, Dan?

I have a vibration at speeds over about 55mph on my '83 300D which I hope 
will be cured by replacing a bad axle and noisy differential.
The differential I got locally was unbolted at the flex disc which looks 
newer than the one on the car. Are there any kind of alignment marks or 
special things to watch out for if I just bolt the drive shaft on to the 
flex disc that's already mounted on the differential?
Thanks,
Gerry
'83 300D and 240D
--
From: "LWB250" 
> I had a 250LWB, which is a 123 chassis that's been stretched (by the 
> factory) for use as a taxi. This particular chassis, due to the length, 
> has a three piece drive shaft, meaning two flex disk, two center bearings, 
> and three sections.
> I don't recall what precipitated the problem, but it developed (or may 
> have had it when I got it) vibration at certain speeds. I found a bum 
> center bearing and carrier and replaced it. No joy. I replaced the 
> second center bearing and carrier. Still no relief. I R&R'ed it, checked 
> the marks, reassembled, nada.
> This took place over the course of several months. By the final time I 
> R&R'ed the whole thing (I was getting really good at it!) I found what I 
> suspected was a bad U joint. Knowing that the process for replacing MB U 
> joints was a very specialized one, I went to my local drive shaft repair 
> house and talked to them about it.
> "Heck, there's nothing special about that - we do it all the time!"
> They had to ship it to their Miami location, since the shop here in Tampa 
> didn't have a balancer that could handle the length of my shaft. No 
> additional charge to do this, just a couple of days and it was back.
I get the shaft in pieces, load it up, take it home and lay it out on the 
garage floor for reassembly. Guess what? They didn't put match marks on 
the pieces. Damn.
> I called them up and was assured that it didn't matter, as they had 
> balanced it as separate sections as well as a complete shaft. What? They 
> also said that if I installed it and it still had vibration to bring it 
> back, they would rebalance it, and send it back with match marks.
> That's ultimately what happened. A real PITA, but after nearly two years 
> I didn't have this horrendous vibration around 10 mph that sounded like it 
> was going to tear open the floor just above the second center bearing.
> I still have a box of the locknuts for the flex disk bolts as a 
> reminder
> Dan


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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-30 Thread jfreezn
Gerry,? 

There are no match marks at the flex discs to worry about.? I am concerned that 
your noisy differential was not the differential, but merely a weak 
differential support mount.? Did the diff have lots of play in the gears that 
would make you suspect it is failing?? A bad mount will transmit a huge amount 
of gear noise!? Either way, be sure you replace your 25 year old mount with a 
new one.? Maybe try the new? mount with your old diff first---.

Jim in Phoenix





I have a vibration at speeds over about 55mph on my '83 300D  which I hope 
will be cured by replacing a bad axle and noisy differential.
The differential I got locally was unbolted at the flex disc which looks 
newer than the one on the car.  Are there any kind of alignment marks or 
special things to watch out for if I just bolt the drive shaft on to the 
flex disc that's already mounted on the differential?
Thanks,
Gerry




-Original Message-
From: archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Sent: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 6:16 am
Subject: Re: [MBZ] bad vibration




Do you recall the name of the drive shaft repair place in Tampa, Dan?

I have a vibration at speeds over about 55mph on my '83 300D  which I hope 
will be cured by replacing a bad axle and noisy differential.
The differential I got locally was unbolted at the flex disc which looks 
newer than the one on the car.  Are there any kind of alignment marks or 
special things to watch out for if I just bolt the drive shaft on to the 
flex disc that's already mounted on the differential?
Thanks,
Gerry
'83 300D and 240D
--
From: "LWB250" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>  I had a 250LWB, which is a 123 chassis that's been stretched (by the 
> factory) for use as a taxi.  This particular chassis, due to the length, 
> has a three piece drive shaft, meaning two flex disk, two center bearings, 
> and three sections.
>  I don't recall what precipitated the problem, but it developed (or may 
> have had it when I got it) vibration at certain speeds.  I found a bum 
> center bearing and carrier and replaced it.  No joy.  I replaced the 
> second center bearing and carrier.  Still no relief.  I R&R'ed it, checked 
> the marks, reassembled, nada.
>  This took place over the course of several months.  By the final time I 
> R&R'ed the whole thing (I was getting really good at it!) I found what I 
> suspected was a bad U joint.  Knowing that the process for replacing MB U 
> joints was a very specialized one, I went to my local drive shaft repair 
> house and talked to them about it.
>  "Heck, there's nothing special about that - we do it all the time!"
>  They had to ship it to their Miami location, since the shop here in Tampa 
> didn't have a balancer that could handle the length of my shaft.  No 
> additional charge to do this, just a couple of days and it was back.
  I get the shaft in pieces, load it up, take it home and lay it out on the 
garage floor for reassembly.  Guess what?  They didn't put match marks on 
the pieces. Damn.
>  I called them up and was assured that it didn't matter, as they had 
> balanced it as separate sections as well as a complete shaft.  What?  They 
> also said that if I installed it and it still had vibration to bring it 
> back, they would rebalance it, and send it back with match marks.
>  That's ultimately what happened.  A real PITA, but after nearly two years 
> I didn't have this horrendous vibration around 10 mph that sounded like it 
> was going to tear open the floor just above the second center bearing.
>  I still have a box of the locknuts for the flex disk bolts as a 
> reminder
>  Dan


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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-30 Thread LWB250
The only thing to watch for on the flex disc coupling at either end of the 
drive shaft is the direction that the disc is installed.  There is an arrow on 
the disc that indicates the front of the vehicle, I believe.  Do check the 
manual and confirm this, as it's been a while since I've done one.  I do know 
that the orientation is important.  I also believe there was a German word 
molded in the rubber that indicated direction as well.
   
  Maybe someone here with a better memory than I can chime in and clarify this.
   
  Dan
  

archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  
Do you recall the name of the drive shaft repair place in Tampa, Dan?

I have a vibration at speeds over about 55mph on my '83 300D which I hope 
will be cured by replacing a bad axle and noisy differential.
The differential I got locally was unbolted at the flex disc which looks 
newer than the one on the car. Are there any kind of alignment marks or 
special things to watch out for if I just bolt the drive shaft on to the 
flex disc that's already mounted on the differential?
Thanks,
Gerry
'83 300D and 240D

   
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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-30 Thread archer
There has been an increasing amount of play in the gears, Jim.  I had 
planned to put in a new diff support and run it as long as possible, but 
then one of axle boots started leaking so I decided to replace both the diff 
and the axle while I was at it.  I've already received the diff, 
transmission, and motor mounts from Rusty; so that ought to quiet it down a 
bit.
Thanks,
Gerry

> Gerry,?
> There are no match marks at the flex discs to worry about.? I am concerned 
> that your noisy differential was not the differential, but merely a weak 
> differential support mount.? Did the diff have lots of play in the gears 
> that would make you suspect it is failing?? A bad mount will transmit a 
> huge amount of gear noise!? Either way, be sure you replace your 25 year 
> old mount with a new one.? Maybe try the new? mount with your old diff 
> first---.
> Jim in Phoenix
-- 
> I have a vibration at speeds over about 55mph on my '83 300D  which I hope
> will be cured by replacing a bad axle and noisy differential.
> The differential I got locally was unbolted at the flex disc which looks
> newer than the one on the car.  Are there any kind of alignment marks or
> special things to watch out for if I just bolt the drive shaft on to the
> flex disc that's already mounted on the differential?
> Thanks,
> Gerry


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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-30 Thread archer
> archer wrote:
>> newer than the one on the car.  Are there any kind of alignment marks or 
>> special things to watch out for if I just bolt the drive shaft on to the 
>> flex disc that's already mounted on the differential?
---
> Should just bolt up. Did your new diff come from a 82-85 turbo?
> If the donor was a '85, do you have the '85 speedometer/odometer
> to go with it?
> Mitch Haley

Glad to know that.  I'll check with him and get the speedometer/odometer if 
necessary.  If it was an '85, would the diff be higher or lower ratio? 
Would the part number on the diff be different for an '85?
Thanks,
Gerry


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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-30 Thread archer

I know where that is.  Lived near Palm River many years ago.
Thanks, Dan.
Gerry
- 
From: "LWB250" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> These are the guys.  They're more into truck and heavy equipment stuff, 
> but they did a good job and worked with me to get it right.
>
>  Florida Powertrain & Hydraulics Inc
> 6501 Adamo Dr | Tampa, FL 33619
> PH: (813) 623-6713 | FX: (813) 623-6713
>
>
> archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Do you recall the name of the drive shaft repair place in Tampa, Dan?
>
> I have a vibration at speeds over about 55mph on my '83 300D which I hope
> will be cured by replacing a bad axle and noisy differential.
> The differential I got locally was unbolted at the flex disc which looks
> newer than the one on the car. Are there any kind of alignment marks or
> special things to watch out for if I just bolt the drive shaft on to the
> flex disc that's already mounted on the differential?
> Thanks,
> Gerry
> '83 300D and 240D
> --
> From: "LWB250"
>> I had a 250LWB, which is a 123 chassis that's been stretched (by the
>> factory) for use as a taxi. This particular chassis, due to the length,
>> has a three piece drive shaft, meaning two flex disk, two center 
>> bearings,
>> and three sections.
>> I don't recall what precipitated the problem, but it developed (or may
>> have had it when I got it) vibration at certain speeds. I found a bum
>> center bearing and carrier and replaced it. No joy. I replaced the
>> second center bearing and carrier. Still no relief. I R&R'ed it, checked
>> the marks, reassembled, nada.
>> This took place over the course of several months. By the final time I
>> R&R'ed the whole thing (I was getting really good at it!) I found what I
>> suspected was a bad U joint. Knowing that the process for replacing MB U
>> joints was a very specialized one, I went to my local drive shaft repair
>> house and talked to them about it.
>> "Heck, there's nothing special about that - we do it all the time!"
>> They had to ship it to their Miami location, since the shop here in Tampa
>> didn't have a balancer that could handle the length of my shaft. No
>> additional charge to do this, just a couple of days and it was back.
> I get the shaft in pieces, load it up, take it home and lay it out on the
> garage floor for reassembly. Guess what? They didn't put match marks on
> the pieces. Damn.
>> I called them up and was assured that it didn't matter, as they had
>> balanced it as separate sections as well as a complete shaft. What? They
>> also said that if I installed it and it still had vibration to bring it
>> back, they would rebalance it, and send it back with match marks.
>> That's ultimately what happened. A real PITA, but after nearly two years
>> I didn't have this horrendous vibration around 10 mph that sounded like 
>> it
>> was going to tear open the floor just above the second center bearing.
>> I still have a box of the locknuts for the flex disk bolts as a
>> reminder
>> Dan


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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-30 Thread Mitch Haley
archer wrote:
> Glad to know that.  I'll check with him and get the speedometer/odometer if
> necessary.  If it was an '85, would the diff be higher or lower ratio?

'83 should be 3.07:1, I think '85 is 2.88:1, which is about 7% taller. 
I believe the ratio is stamped on the housing somewhere. Not sure about
part numbers.

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-30 Thread LWB250
You're welcome, Gerry.

And I *don't* think you would want to be living in
Palm River these days it's not the nicest part of
town, unless you're looking for illicit behavior or
articles.

Dan


--- archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> 
> I know where that is.  Lived near Palm River many
> years ago.
> Thanks, Dan.
> Gerry
> - 
> From: "LWB250" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> 
> 
> > These are the guys.  They're more into truck and
> heavy equipment stuff, 
> > but they did a good job and worked with me to get
> it right.
> >
> >  Florida Powertrain & Hydraulics Inc
> > 6501 Adamo Dr | Tampa, FL 33619
> > PH: (813) 623-6713 | FX: (813) 623-6713
> >
> >
> > archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Do you recall the name of the drive shaft repair
> place in Tampa, Dan?
> >
> > I have a vibration at speeds over about 55mph on
> my '83 300D which I hope
> > will be cured by replacing a bad axle and noisy
> differential.
> > The differential I got locally was unbolted at the
> flex disc which looks
> > newer than the one on the car. Are there any kind
> of alignment marks or
> > special things to watch out for if I just bolt the
> drive shaft on to the
> > flex disc that's already mounted on the
> differential?
> > Thanks,
> > Gerry
> > '83 300D and 240D
> > --
> > From: "LWB250"
> >> I had a 250LWB, which is a 123 chassis that's
> been stretched (by the
> >> factory) for use as a taxi. This particular
> chassis, due to the length,
> >> has a three piece drive shaft, meaning two flex
> disk, two center 
> >> bearings,
> >> and three sections.
> >> I don't recall what precipitated the problem, but
> it developed (or may
> >> have had it when I got it) vibration at certain
> speeds. I found a bum
> >> center bearing and carrier and replaced it. No
> joy. I replaced the
> >> second center bearing and carrier. Still no
> relief. I R&R'ed it, checked
> >> the marks, reassembled, nada.
> >> This took place over the course of several
> months. By the final time I
> >> R&R'ed the whole thing (I was getting really good
> at it!) I found what I
> >> suspected was a bad U joint. Knowing that the
> process for replacing MB U
> >> joints was a very specialized one, I went to my
> local drive shaft repair
> >> house and talked to them about it.
> >> "Heck, there's nothing special about that - we do
> it all the time!"
> >> They had to ship it to their Miami location,
> since the shop here in Tampa
> >> didn't have a balancer that could handle the
> length of my shaft. No
> >> additional charge to do this, just a couple of
> days and it was back.
> > I get the shaft in pieces, load it up, take it
> home and lay it out on the
> > garage floor for reassembly. Guess what? They
> didn't put match marks on
> > the pieces. Damn.
> >> I called them up and was assured that it didn't
> matter, as they had
> >> balanced it as separate sections as well as a
> complete shaft. What? They
> >> also said that if I installed it and it still had
> vibration to bring it
> >> back, they would rebalance it, and send it back
> with match marks.
> >> That's ultimately what happened. A real PITA, but
> after nearly two years
> >> I didn't have this horrendous vibration around 10
> mph that sounded like 
> >> it
> >> was going to tear open the floor just above the
> second center bearing.
> >> I still have a box of the locknuts for the flex
> disk bolts as a
> >> reminder
> >> Dan
> 
> 
> ___
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> For new parts see official list sponsor:
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> 
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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-30 Thread Loren Faeth
Dan,

What kind of money did they want to balance a shaft?  I have had 
prices of $700 to 900, and I am too cheap to spend that much.  900 is 
getting close to a Rusty price for a new drive shaft I think.



> > > These are the guys.  They're more into truck and
> > heavy equipment stuff,
> > > but they did a good job and worked with me to get
> > it right.
> > >
> > >  Florida Powertrain & Hydraulics Inc
> > > 6501 Adamo Dr | Tampa, FL 33619
> > > PH: (813) 623-6713 | FX: (813) 623-6713
> > >
> > >
> > > archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > > Do you recall the name of the drive shaft repair
> > place in Tampa, Dan?
> > >
> > > I have a vibration at speeds over about 55mph on
> > my '83 300D which I hope
> > > will be cured by replacing a bad axle and noisy
> > differential.
> > > The differential I got locally was unbolted at the
> > flex disc which looks
> > > newer than the one on the car. Are there any kind
> > of alignment marks or
> > > special things to watch out for if I just bolt the
> > drive shaft on to the
> > > flex disc that's already mounted on the
> > differential?
> > > Thanks,
> > > Gerry
> > > '83 300D and 240D
> > > --
> > > From: "LWB250"
> > >> I had a 250LWB, which is a 123 chassis that's
> > been stretched (by the
> > >> factory) for use as a taxi. This particular
> > chassis, due to the length,
> > >> has a three piece drive shaft, meaning two flex
> > disk, two center
> > >> bearings,
> > >> and three sections.
> > >> I don't recall what precipitated the problem, but
> > it developed (or may
> > >> have had it when I got it) vibration at certain
> > speeds. I found a bum
> > >> center bearing and carrier and replaced it. No
> > joy. I replaced the
> > >> second center bearing and carrier. Still no
> > relief. I R&R'ed it, checked
> > >> the marks, reassembled, nada.
> > >> This took place over the course of several
> > months. By the final time I
> > >> R&R'ed the whole thing (I was getting really good
> > at it!) I found what I
> > >> suspected was a bad U joint. Knowing that the
> > process for replacing MB U
> > >> joints was a very specialized one, I went to my
> > local drive shaft repair
> > >> house and talked to them about it.
> > >> "Heck, there's nothing special about that - we do
> > it all the time!"
> > >> They had to ship it to their Miami location,
> > since the shop here in Tampa
> > >> didn't have a balancer that could handle the
> > length of my shaft. No
> > >> additional charge to do this, just a couple of
> > days and it was back.
> > > I get the shaft in pieces, load it up, take it
> > home and lay it out on the
> > > garage floor for reassembly. Guess what? They
> > didn't put match marks on
> > > the pieces. Damn.
> > >> I called them up and was assured that it didn't
> > matter, as they had
> > >> balanced it as separate sections as well as a
> > complete shaft. What? They
> > >> also said that if I installed it and it still had
> > vibration to bring it
> > >> back, they would rebalance it, and send it back
> > with match marks.
> > >> That's ultimately what happened. A real PITA, but
> > after nearly two years
> > >> I didn't have this horrendous vibration around 10
> > mph that sounded like
> > >> it
> > >> was going to tear open the floor just above the
> > second center bearing.
> > >> I still have a box of the locknuts for the flex
> > disk bolts as a
> > >> reminder
> > >> Dan
> >
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > For new parts see official list sponsor:
> > http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
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> >
>http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
>
>
>
> 
>
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>know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it 
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Loren Faeth 


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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-05-01 Thread LWB250
This as 3-4 years ago, but I think they charged me
around $200.

Dan


--- Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Dan,
> 
> What kind of money did they want to balance a shaft?
>  I have had 
> prices of $700 to 900, and I am too cheap to spend
> that much.  900 is 
> getting close to a Rusty price for a new drive shaft
> I think.
> 
> 
> 
> > > > These are the guys.  They're more into truck
> and
> > > heavy equipment stuff,
> > > > but they did a good job and worked with me to
> get
> > > it right.
> > > >
> > > >  Florida Powertrain & Hydraulics Inc
> > > > 6501 Adamo Dr | Tampa, FL 33619
> > > > PH: (813) 623-6713 | FX: (813) 623-6713
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > > > Do you recall the name of the drive shaft
> repair
> > > place in Tampa, Dan?
> > > >
> > > > I have a vibration at speeds over about 55mph
> on
> > > my '83 300D which I hope
> > > > will be cured by replacing a bad axle and
> noisy
> > > differential.
> > > > The differential I got locally was unbolted at
> the
> > > flex disc which looks
> > > > newer than the one on the car. Are there any
> kind
> > > of alignment marks or
> > > > special things to watch out for if I just bolt
> the
> > > drive shaft on to the
> > > > flex disc that's already mounted on the
> > > differential?
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Gerry
> > > > '83 300D and 240D
> > > > --
> > > > From: "LWB250"
> > > >> I had a 250LWB, which is a 123 chassis that's
> > > been stretched (by the
> > > >> factory) for use as a taxi. This particular
> > > chassis, due to the length,
> > > >> has a three piece drive shaft, meaning two
> flex
> > > disk, two center
> > > >> bearings,
> > > >> and three sections.
> > > >> I don't recall what precipitated the problem,
> but
> > > it developed (or may
> > > >> have had it when I got it) vibration at
> certain
> > > speeds. I found a bum
> > > >> center bearing and carrier and replaced it.
> No
> > > joy. I replaced the
> > > >> second center bearing and carrier. Still no
> > > relief. I R&R'ed it, checked
> > > >> the marks, reassembled, nada.
> > > >> This took place over the course of several
> > > months. By the final time I
> > > >> R&R'ed the whole thing (I was getting really
> good
> > > at it!) I found what I
> > > >> suspected was a bad U joint. Knowing that the
> > > process for replacing MB U
> > > >> joints was a very specialized one, I went to
> my
> > > local drive shaft repair
> > > >> house and talked to them about it.
> > > >> "Heck, there's nothing special about that -
> we do
> > > it all the time!"
> > > >> They had to ship it to their Miami location,
> > > since the shop here in Tampa
> > > >> didn't have a balancer that could handle the
> > > length of my shaft. No
> > > >> additional charge to do this, just a couple
> of
> > > days and it was back.
> > > > I get the shaft in pieces, load it up, take it
> > > home and lay it out on the
> > > > garage floor for reassembly. Guess what? They
> > > didn't put match marks on
> > > > the pieces. Damn.
> > > >> I called them up and was assured that it
> didn't
> > > matter, as they had
> > > >> balanced it as separate sections as well as a
> > > complete shaft. What? They
> > > >> also said that if I installed it and it still
> had
> > > vibration to bring it
> > > >> back, they would rebalance it, and send it
> back
> > > with match marks.
> > > >> That's ultimately what happened. A real PITA,
> but
> > > after nearly two years
> > > >> I didn't have this horrendous vibration
> around 10
> > > mph that sounded like
> > > >> it
> > > >> was going to tear open the floor just above
> the
> > > second center bearing.
> > > >> I still have a box of the locknuts for the
> flex
> > > disk bolts as a
> > > >> reminder
> > > >> Dan
> > >
> > >
> > > ___
> > > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > > For new parts see official list sponsor:
> > > http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > >
> > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > >
>
>http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > 
>
>
> >Be a better friend, newshound, and
> >know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it 
> >now. 
>
http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
> >
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> 
> Loren Faeth 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-05-01 Thread Jim Cathey
> What kind of money did they want to balance a shaft?  I have had
> prices of $700 to 900, and I am too cheap to spend that much.

I seem to recall that the outfit in Portland that did my 560 SL's
U-joint, with balancing, was somewhere in the $200-300 range.
(It was subcontracted by the shop that replaced the center
bearing and support.)  The entire job, all labor included,
plus shipping back and forth to Portland was less than your
numbers.  Around 1999.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-05-01 Thread Loren Faeth
Not bad.  I found an $80 used driveshaft, and I am going to try that 
first.  If it shakes too, then I will be able to send one off and not 
have the car down for 2-3 weeks while I send the driveshaft out somewhere.


At 05:37 AM 5/1/2008, you wrote:
>This as 3-4 years ago, but I think they charged me
>around $200.
>
>Dan
>
>
>--- Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > Dan,
> >
> > What kind of money did they want to balance a shaft?
> >  I have had
> > prices of $700 to 900, and I am too cheap to spend
> > that much.  900 is
> > getting close to a Rusty price for a new drive shaft
> > I think.
> >
> >
> >
> > > > > These are the guys.  They're more into truck
> > and
> > > > heavy equipment stuff,
> > > > > but they did a good job and worked with me to
> > get
> > > > it right.
> > > > >
> > > > >  Florida Powertrain & Hydraulics Inc
> > > > > 6501 Adamo Dr | Tampa, FL 33619
> > > > > PH: (813) 623-6713 | FX: (813) 623-6713
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > > > > Do you recall the name of the drive shaft
> > repair
> > > > place in Tampa, Dan?
> > > > >
> > > > > I have a vibration at speeds over about 55mph
> > on
> > > > my '83 300D which I hope
> > > > > will be cured by replacing a bad axle and
> > noisy
> > > > differential.
> > > > > The differential I got locally was unbolted at
> > the
> > > > flex disc which looks
> > > > > newer than the one on the car. Are there any
> > kind
> > > > of alignment marks or
> > > > > special things to watch out for if I just bolt
> > the
> > > > drive shaft on to the
> > > > > flex disc that's already mounted on the
> > > > differential?
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > Gerry
> > > > > '83 300D and 240D
> > > > > --
> > > > > From: "LWB250"
> > > > >> I had a 250LWB, which is a 123 chassis that's
> > > > been stretched (by the
> > > > >> factory) for use as a taxi. This particular
> > > > chassis, due to the length,
> > > > >> has a three piece drive shaft, meaning two
> > flex
> > > > disk, two center
> > > > >> bearings,
> > > > >> and three sections.
> > > > >> I don't recall what precipitated the problem,
> > but
> > > > it developed (or may
> > > > >> have had it when I got it) vibration at
> > certain
> > > > speeds. I found a bum
> > > > >> center bearing and carrier and replaced it.
> > No
> > > > joy. I replaced the
> > > > >> second center bearing and carrier. Still no
> > > > relief. I R&R'ed it, checked
> > > > >> the marks, reassembled, nada.
> > > > >> This took place over the course of several
> > > > months. By the final time I
> > > > >> R&R'ed the whole thing (I was getting really
> > good
> > > > at it!) I found what I
> > > > >> suspected was a bad U joint. Knowing that the
> > > > process for replacing MB U
> > > > >> joints was a very specialized one, I went to
> > my
> > > > local drive shaft repair
> > > > >> house and talked to them about it.
> > > > >> "Heck, there's nothing special about that -
> > we do
> > > > it all the time!"
> > > > >> They had to ship it to their Miami location,
> > > > since the shop here in Tampa
> > > > >> didn't have a balancer that could handle the
> > > > length of my shaft. No
> > > > >> additional charge to do this, just a couple
> > of
> > > > days and it was back.
> > > > > I get the shaft in pieces, load it up, take it
> > > > home and lay it out on the
> > > > > garage floor for reassembly. Guess what? They
> > > > didn't put match marks on
> > > > > the pieces. Damn.
> > > > >> I called them up and was assured that it
> > didn't
> > > > matter, as they had
> > > > >> balanced it as separate sections as well as a
> > > > complete shaft. What? They
> > > > >> also said that if I installed it and it still
> > had
> > > > vibration to bring it
> > > > >> back, they would rebalance it, and send it
> > back
> > > > with match marks.
> > > > >> That's ultimately what happened. A real PITA,
> > but
> > > > after nearly two years
> > > > >> I didn't have this horrendous vibration
> > around 10
> > > > mph that sounded like
> > > > >> it
> > > > >> was going to tear open the floor just above
> > the
> > > > second center bearing.
> > > > >> I still have a box of the locknuts for the
> > flex
> > > > disk bolts as a
> > > > >> reminder
> > > > >> Dan
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ___
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> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-05-01 Thread archer


> archer wrote:
>> Glad to know that.  I'll check with him and get the speedometer/odometer 
>> if
>> necessary.  If it was an '85, would the diff be higher or lower ratio?
>
> '83 should be 3.07:1, I think '85 is 2.88:1, which is about 7% taller.
> I believe the ratio is stamped on the housing somewhere. Not sure about
> part numbers.
---
Found it stamped on the lower exposed mating surface for the cover.  It is a 
3.07.  Thanks, Mitch.
Gerry 


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