Re: [MBZ] Water heater replacement

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

This guy has a plumbing company and licensed etc, he is just old school 
and works by himself I guess.


On 6/10/2020 9:23 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote:

The new age plumbing companies are a rip off.

Professional plumbers are probably more expensive because of permit 
requirements, licensing requirements, and bonding and liability insurance 
requirements. If a house blows up from a gas leak because of an improperly 
installed water heater, how many shysters (present company and spouses of 
present company excepted) are going to line up to sue?

Rick
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water heater replacement

[Rick Knoble via Mercedes]

>The new age plumbing companies are a rip off.

Professional plumbers are probably more expensive because of permit 
requirements, licensing requirements, and bonding and liability insurance 
requirements. If a house blows up from a gas leak because of an improperly 
installed water heater, how many shysters (present company and spouses of 
present company excepted) are going to line up to sue?

Rick
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water heater replacement

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

Well I remembered my father has some old time plumber he uses and 
recently had him install a water heater and redid all of the gas lines 
under his 100 year old house.  I think my dad said he charged him around 
$1500 to replace all the gas lines, which I would imagine is cheap 
considering the guy had to crawl under the whole thing.  We called him 
earlier and left a message and the guy just called back.  We will buy 
the water heater at Lowes for $409 and he will install it for a little 
over $200.  That sounds more reasonable.  The new age plumbing companies 
are a rip off.


On 6/10/2020 4:58 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes wrote:

Sadly, water heaters are common price gouge items. They know anyone
replacing a water heater is likely in a mild panic and feeling they need
to replace the heater RIGHT NOW.

So they quote the most expensive model and then add on installation and
a generous profit. Some of which is maybe deserved if they actually can
get out there RIGHT NOW with a new heater and install it.

In most cases you can live without hot water for a day or two. Shop
around. Granted with a rental property the tennants may not be so
patient.

Allan


Dan Penoff via Mercedes  writes:


Lowe’s will be just as much, I’m sure.

-D


On Jun 10, 2020, at 5:17 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
 wrote:

No that was calling local plumbing places. Seems like a ripoff to me. I guess 
I’m going to do it myself.

Sent from my iPhone


On Jun 10, 2020, at 4:16 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
wrote:

If it’s Lowe’s, yes. They gouge the piss out of you on installs. They sub it 
to a local plumber and then add profit on top of that. I asked for a quote on 
my last one and it was nearly as much as the water heater itself.

No thanks.

-D


On Jun 10, 2020, at 5:12 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
 wrote:

The wife called around and cheapest quote she got was $1200. Looking at Lowe’s 
at HD can get one for about $400. They really want $600 to install it?

Sent from my iPhone


On Jun 10, 2020, at 3:36 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes  
wrote:

YOu know too there is like a 3yr and a 5yr warranty tank.  They are the exact 
some unit, you're just paying for the additional warranty time.

Replacing one is not hard if you have the tools and want to waste the time 
chasing after it and dealing with it, but if this is a rental then go ahead and 
pay the man, your time is likely more valuable (like for working on cars!)

--FT


On 6/10/20 4:28 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
I’m getting quotes for the cheapest tank they can find. The sad part is I just 
bought a home warranty the other day because I figured the systems are all 15 
years old and will start requiring replacement in the near future. I normally 
don’t do these but know several people with rentals and they say the warranties 
have paid for themselves. It doesn’t kick in until next month though.

Sent from my iPhone


On Jun 10, 2020, at 3:13 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes  
wrote:

You know, for a rental I might be more inclined to call a plumber and
expense the cost. Depends how much time you have to fool with it. Also
if you hire a plumber then they are liable for the installation being
done correctly. Same reason I only work on my own cars, not anyone
else's.
One more thing, if you don't have a pan under the heater, I would add
that, to prevent water damage when (not if) the tank eventually starts
leaking. Mine didn't have that originally, but it was near a floor drain
in the basement so I wasn't too worried. However the floor was not
sloped toward the drain enough so when the tank sprang a leak, the water
ran all over the place. I added a pan with a drain pipe running directly
to the floor drain.
Allan
Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:

It’s at the rental house and can’t remember what kind of pipe it is but it’s in 
the garage closet and easy to get to. It’s natural gas.
Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 10, 2020, at 2:57 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes  
wrote:

Just did this a couple of weeks ago.
Is your plumbing CPVC, copper, or something else?
Gas or electric heater? Do you have good access to all the fittings?
Mine was pretty straightforward. Replaced a natural gas heater with same
capacity natural gas. Though it was basically the same size tank, the
locations of the fittings were a little different. I could have used
flex connectors with push-on ("Sharkbite") fittings to connect to the
existing plumbing but I don't trust Sharkbite fittings. I have CPVC
plumbing so I cut, fit, and cemented new pipe to connect the heater.
Gas supply connection was also not exactly in the same place. It's
threaded black iron pipe. Had to buy a few new pieces to get it to
connect. Here again you can use a flexible connector to make that
easier, I opted not to since the prior heater did not have that.
My water heater is a power vent (the exhaust pipe is PVC) so I had to
buy the same in the replacement. That adds a substantial amount to the
price but in theory it's more efficien

Re: [MBZ] Water heater replacement

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

When I get a new water heater, or move into a house, one of the critical 
maintenance items is to remove the lousy and cheap plastic drain valve most 
water heaters have now and put a brass nipple with a high quality ball valve 
and a cap on it. No worries about sediment clogged drain valves or being unable 
to get one closed and having it drip.

Turn off power, hook up a garden hose, open ball valve and drain. Then turn on 
water in short bursts to dislodge as much of the scale/sediment and send it out 
the hose.

Fill it back up with the pressure valve open until it spits water out, close 
the pressure valve, run a couple of faucets to get any remaining air out, and 
turn the breaker back on.

-D 

> On Jun 10, 2020, at 4:57 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Yes.  Tanks are glass lined, which is great until glass begins to crack from 
> thermo-cycling and handling.  If the actual tank leaks it must be replaced.  
> Leaks in hoses and fittings (as well as heating elements and thermostats) are 
> economical to replace as parts.  In addition to replacing the anode, periodic 
> draining is a good idea to remove sediment.  Power MUST be turned off before 
> draining or elements will fry.  If tank won't drain (common with sediment) 
> backflush just enough to clear the drain.  Sometimes just stomping on the 
> drain hose helps too. My 15-year-old WH is still OK although I did have to 
> replace a corrugated copper flex hose (hot side) after it corroded through.
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Mercedes On Behalf Of Allan Streib via Mercedes
> Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2020 4:47 PM
> To: Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
> Cc: Allan Streib 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Water heater replacement
> 
> In my experience, the tanks always leak eventually. This has been the only 
> reason I've ever needed to replace a water heater. But they last far longer 
> than 5 years unless maybe you have some really corrosive water.
> 
> Also the tank will likely have a replaceable sacrificial anode, which most 
> people are not aware of but if you replace that as needed, in theory the tank 
> should not corrode.
> 
> The heater I replaced last week was original to the house, over 20 years old.
> 
> Allan
> 
> 
> Floyd Thursby via Mercedes  writes:
> 
>> YOu know too there is like a 3yr and a 5yr warranty tank.  They are 
>> the exact some unit, you're just paying for the additional warranty time.
>> 
>> Replacing one is not hard if you have the tools and want to waste the 
>> time chasing after it and dealing with it, but if this is a rental 
>> then go ahead and pay the man, your time is likely more valuable (like 
>> for working on cars!)
>> 
>> --FT
>> 
>> On 6/10/20 4:28 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
>>> I’m getting quotes for the cheapest tank they can find. The sad part is I 
>>> just bought a home warranty the other day because I figured the systems are 
>>> all 15 years old and will start requiring replacement in the near future. I 
>>> normally don’t do these but know several people with rentals and they say 
>>> the warranties have paid for themselves. It doesn’t kick in until next 
>>> month though.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 3:13 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>>>>  wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> You know, for a rental I might be more inclined to call a plumber 
>>>> and expense the cost. Depends how much time you have to fool with 
>>>> it. Also if you hire a plumber then they are liable for the 
>>>> installation being done correctly. Same reason I only work on my own 
>>>> cars, not anyone else's.
>>>> 
>>>> One more thing, if you don't have a pan under the heater, I would 
>>>> add that, to prevent water damage when (not if) the tank eventually 
>>>> starts leaking. Mine didn't have that originally, but it was near a 
>>>> floor drain in the basement so I wasn't too worried. However the 
>>>> floor was not sloped toward the drain enough so when the tank sprang 
>>>> a leak, the water ran all over the place. I added a pan with a drain 
>>>> pipe running directly to the floor drain.
>>>> 
>>>> Allan
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:
>>>> 
>>>>> It’s at the rental house and can’t remember what kind of pipe it is but 
>>>>> it’s in the garage closet and easy to get to. It’s natural gas.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>> 
>>>

Re: [MBZ] Water Heater Maintenance

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

I’ve never changed one in all the years I’ve owned homes, however, I have been 
diligent in flushing my water heater on an annual basis. It’s a pretty simple 
job and just takes maybe 1/2 hour to do.

If I was going to pull an anode, I would just use a 1/2” socket and breaker 
bar. Once out, you’ll know if it needs to be replaced, as it will be visibly 
“eaten up” by corrosion. If not, put it back in, tighten it up, and move on.

I’ve got a plumber in the house, I should probably ask him.

-D



> On Jun 10, 2020, at 6:40 PM, Jerry Herrman via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'd like to jump into the middle of this discussion with two questions and
> two comment. I too have heard that the difference between the two prices for
> a water heater is that the higher priced one comes with a longer warranty
> (here in San Diego six years vs. nine years last I checked). I've also heard
> from supposedly reliable sources that the higher priced one truly is a
> better built product. Is there a way to know for sure? Given the effort to
> change out a WH, I would opt for the higher priced one if it truly is better
> quality. 
> 
> What is the prevailing opinion on changing out the sacrificial anode rod on
> a gas WH after X number of years? I've never done it myself. Plumbers  I've
> asked say it will prolong the life of the tank. Yet I am not aware of any
> homeowner who has done that job. I'm a little nervous about trying. 
> 
> - How will I know which is the correct one?
> 
> - It might be too tight to get the old one out or need a heavy duty impact
> wrench to do the job 
> 
> - Often there is insufficient  clearance above the heater  (I am aware there
> are segmented rods)
> 
> - Will it affect the normal warranty? 
> 
> - short of pulling the old one out, how will I know when it needs to be
> replaced?
> 
> I hear over and over the importance of draining the water each year. I've
> never done that. Mostly because I don't know how to remove the water and
> gunk that accumulates in the bottom of the tank below the level of the
> drain.
> 
> In recent years, I have replaced several  water heaters on a preventive
> basis that were installed in rentals in the eighties. Nothing wrong with
> them, just wanted to head off any trouble.  I doubt the anode rods were
> changed out or the water drained. None of the water heaters I have installed
> since the nineties has lasted substantially longer than the warranty. 
> 
> One more comment. Is there a premium brand that gives a longer life?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water heater replacement

[Allan Streib via Mercedes]

Sadly, water heaters are common price gouge items. They know anyone
replacing a water heater is likely in a mild panic and feeling they need
to replace the heater RIGHT NOW.

So they quote the most expensive model and then add on installation and
a generous profit. Some of which is maybe deserved if they actually can
get out there RIGHT NOW with a new heater and install it.

In most cases you can live without hot water for a day or two. Shop
around. Granted with a rental property the tennants may not be so
patient.

Allan


Dan Penoff via Mercedes  writes:

> Lowe’s will be just as much, I’m sure.
>
> -D
>
>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 5:17 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> No that was calling local plumbing places. Seems like a ripoff to me. I 
>> guess I’m going to do it myself. 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 4:16 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> If it’s Lowe’s, yes. They gouge the piss out of you on installs. They sub 
>>> it to a local plumber and then add profit on top of that. I asked for a 
>>> quote on my last one and it was nearly as much as the water heater itself.
>>> 
>>> No thanks.
>>> 
>>> -D
>>> 
 On Jun 10, 2020, at 5:12 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
  wrote:
 
 The wife called around and cheapest quote she got was $1200. Looking at 
 Lowe’s at HD can get one for about $400. They really want $600 to install 
 it?
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
>>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 3:36 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
> YOu know too there is like a 3yr and a 5yr warranty tank.  They are the 
> exact some unit, you're just paying for the additional warranty time.
> 
> Replacing one is not hard if you have the tools and want to waste the 
> time chasing after it and dealing with it, but if this is a rental then 
> go ahead and pay the man, your time is likely more valuable (like for 
> working on cars!)
> 
> --FT
> 
>> On 6/10/20 4:28 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
>> I’m getting quotes for the cheapest tank they can find. The sad part is 
>> I just bought a home warranty the other day because I figured the 
>> systems are all 15 years old and will start requiring replacement in the 
>> near future. I normally don’t do these but know several people with 
>> rentals and they say the warranties have paid for themselves. It doesn’t 
>> kick in until next month though.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
> On Jun 10, 2020, at 3:13 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
>>> You know, for a rental I might be more inclined to call a plumber and
>>> expense the cost. Depends how much time you have to fool with it. Also
>>> if you hire a plumber then they are liable for the installation being
>>> done correctly. Same reason I only work on my own cars, not anyone
>>> else's.
>>> One more thing, if you don't have a pan under the heater, I would add
>>> that, to prevent water damage when (not if) the tank eventually starts
>>> leaking. Mine didn't have that originally, but it was near a floor drain
>>> in the basement so I wasn't too worried. However the floor was not
>>> sloped toward the drain enough so when the tank sprang a leak, the water
>>> ran all over the place. I added a pan with a drain pipe running directly
>>> to the floor drain.
>>> Allan
>>> Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:
 It’s at the rental house and can’t remember what kind of pipe it is 
 but it’s in the garage closet and easy to get to. It’s natural gas.
 Sent from my iPhone
>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 2:57 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
> Just did this a couple of weeks ago.
> Is your plumbing CPVC, copper, or something else?
> Gas or electric heater? Do you have good access to all the fittings?
> Mine was pretty straightforward. Replaced a natural gas heater with 
> same
> capacity natural gas. Though it was basically the same size tank, the
> locations of the fittings were a little different. I could have used
> flex connectors with push-on ("Sharkbite") fittings to connect to the
> existing plumbing but I don't trust Sharkbite fittings. I have CPVC
> plumbing so I cut, fit, and cemented new pipe to connect the heater.
> Gas supply connection was also not exactly in the same place. It's
> threaded black iron pipe. Had to buy a few new pieces to get it to
> connect. Here again you can use a flexible connector to make that
> easier, I opted not to since the prior heater did not have that.
> My water heater is a power vent (the exhaust pipe is PVC) so I had to
> buy the same in the replacement. That adds a substantial amount to the
> price but in theory it's more efficient.
> It took me a good hal

Re: [MBZ] Water heater replacement

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

They’re betting against you. They lost.

-D

> On Jun 10, 2020, at 5:34 PM, Andrew Strasfogel  wrote:
> 
> I can't complain.  I filed at least 10 claims in 4 years so they lost money 
> every year.  They ended up not renewing me.
> 
> On Wed, Jun 10, 2020 at 5:31 PM Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
> mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>> wrote:
> That’s a major ream. A high pressure relief valve is under $20.
> 
> https://www.lowes.com/pl/Pressure-relief-valve--Water-heater-parts-Water-heaters-Plumbing/4294400567?refinement=4294400532
>  
> 
> 
> -D
> 

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water heater replacement

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

I can't complain.  I filed at least 10 claims in 4 years so they lost money
every year.  They ended up not renewing me.

On Wed, Jun 10, 2020 at 5:31 PM Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> That’s a major ream. A high pressure relief valve is under $20.
>
>
> https://www.lowes.com/pl/Pressure-relief-valve--Water-heater-parts-Water-heaters-Plumbing/4294400567?refinement=4294400532
>
> -D
>
> > On Jun 10, 2020, at 5:17 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > No that was calling local plumbing places. Seems like a ripoff to me. I
> guess I’m going to do it myself.
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On Jun 10, 2020, at 4:16 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> If it’s Lowe’s, yes. They gouge the piss out of you on installs. They
> sub it to a local plumber and then add profit on top of that. I asked for a
> quote on my last one and it was nearly as much as the water heater itself.
> >>
> >> No thanks.
> >>
> >> -D
> >>
> >>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 5:12 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> The wife called around and cheapest quote she got was $1200. Looking
> at Lowe’s at HD can get one for about $400. They really want $600 to
> install it?
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>
> >> On Jun 10, 2020, at 3:36 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>  YOu know too there is like a 3yr and a 5yr warranty tank.  They are
> the exact some unit, you're just paying for the additional warranty time.
> 
>  Replacing one is not hard if you have the tools and want to waste the
> time chasing after it and dealing with it, but if this is a rental then go
> ahead and pay the man, your time is likely more valuable (like for working
> on cars!)
> 
>  --FT
> 
> > On 6/10/20 4:28 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
> > I’m getting quotes for the cheapest tank they can find. The sad part
> is I just bought a home warranty the other day because I figured the
> systems are all 15 years old and will start requiring replacement in the
> near future. I normally don’t do these but know several people with rentals
> and they say the warranties have paid for themselves. It doesn’t kick in
> until next month though.
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
>  On Jun 10, 2020, at 3:13 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >> You know, for a rental I might be more inclined to call a plumber
> and
> >> expense the cost. Depends how much time you have to fool with it.
> Also
> >> if you hire a plumber then they are liable for the installation
> being
> >> done correctly. Same reason I only work on my own cars, not anyone
> >> else's.
> >> One more thing, if you don't have a pan under the heater, I would
> add
> >> that, to prevent water damage when (not if) the tank eventually
> starts
> >> leaking. Mine didn't have that originally, but it was near a floor
> drain
> >> in the basement so I wasn't too worried. However the floor was not
> >> sloped toward the drain enough so when the tank sprang a leak, the
> water
> >> ran all over the place. I added a pan with a drain pipe running
> directly
> >> to the floor drain.
> >> Allan
> >> Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:
> >>> It’s at the rental house and can’t remember what kind of pipe it
> is but it’s in the garage closet and easy to get to. It’s natural gas.
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> > On Jun 10, 2020, at 2:57 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>  Just did this a couple of weeks ago.
>  Is your plumbing CPVC, copper, or something else?
>  Gas or electric heater? Do you have good access to all the
> fittings?
>  Mine was pretty straightforward. Replaced a natural gas heater
> with same
>  capacity natural gas. Though it was basically the same size tank,
> the
>  locations of the fittings were a little different. I could have
> used
>  flex connectors with push-on ("Sharkbite") fittings to connect to
> the
>  existing plumbing but I don't trust Sharkbite fittings. I have
> CPVC
>  plumbing so I cut, fit, and cemented new pipe to connect the
> heater.
>  Gas supply connection was also not exactly in the same place. It's
>  threaded black iron pipe. Had to buy a few new pieces to get it to
>  connect. Here again you can use a flexible connector to make that
>  easier, I opted not to since the prior heater did not have that.
>  My water heater is a power vent (the exhaust pipe is PVC) so I
> had to
>  buy the same in the replacement. That adds a substantial amount
> to the
>  price but in theory it's more efficient.
>  It took me a good half a day but I work slowly and deliberately.
> A pro
>  would probably have had it d

Re: [MBZ] Water heater replacement

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

That’s a major ream. A high pressure relief valve is under $20.

https://www.lowes.com/pl/Pressure-relief-valve--Water-heater-parts-Water-heaters-Plumbing/4294400567?refinement=4294400532

-D

> On Jun 10, 2020, at 5:17 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> No that was calling local plumbing places. Seems like a ripoff to me. I guess 
> I’m going to do it myself. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 4:16 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> If it’s Lowe’s, yes. They gouge the piss out of you on installs. They sub 
>> it to a local plumber and then add profit on top of that. I asked for a 
>> quote on my last one and it was nearly as much as the water heater itself.
>> 
>> No thanks.
>> 
>> -D
>> 
>>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 5:12 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> The wife called around and cheapest quote she got was $1200. Looking at 
>>> Lowe’s at HD can get one for about $400. They really want $600 to install 
>>> it?
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 3:36 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
 YOu know too there is like a 3yr and a 5yr warranty tank.  They are the 
 exact some unit, you're just paying for the additional warranty time.
 
 Replacing one is not hard if you have the tools and want to waste the time 
 chasing after it and dealing with it, but if this is a rental then go 
 ahead and pay the man, your time is likely more valuable (like for working 
 on cars!)
 
 --FT
 
> On 6/10/20 4:28 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
> I’m getting quotes for the cheapest tank they can find. The sad part is I 
> just bought a home warranty the other day because I figured the systems 
> are all 15 years old and will start requiring replacement in the near 
> future. I normally don’t do these but know several people with rentals 
> and they say the warranties have paid for themselves. It doesn’t kick in 
> until next month though.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
 On Jun 10, 2020, at 3:13 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
  wrote:
>> You know, for a rental I might be more inclined to call a plumber and
>> expense the cost. Depends how much time you have to fool with it. Also
>> if you hire a plumber then they are liable for the installation being
>> done correctly. Same reason I only work on my own cars, not anyone
>> else's.
>> One more thing, if you don't have a pan under the heater, I would add
>> that, to prevent water damage when (not if) the tank eventually starts
>> leaking. Mine didn't have that originally, but it was near a floor drain
>> in the basement so I wasn't too worried. However the floor was not
>> sloped toward the drain enough so when the tank sprang a leak, the water
>> ran all over the place. I added a pan with a drain pipe running directly
>> to the floor drain.
>> Allan
>> Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:
>>> It’s at the rental house and can’t remember what kind of pipe it is but 
>>> it’s in the garage closet and easy to get to. It’s natural gas.
>>> Sent from my iPhone
> On Jun 10, 2020, at 2:57 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
 Just did this a couple of weeks ago.
 Is your plumbing CPVC, copper, or something else?
 Gas or electric heater? Do you have good access to all the fittings?
 Mine was pretty straightforward. Replaced a natural gas heater with 
 same
 capacity natural gas. Though it was basically the same size tank, the
 locations of the fittings were a little different. I could have used
 flex connectors with push-on ("Sharkbite") fittings to connect to the
 existing plumbing but I don't trust Sharkbite fittings. I have CPVC
 plumbing so I cut, fit, and cemented new pipe to connect the heater.
 Gas supply connection was also not exactly in the same place. It's
 threaded black iron pipe. Had to buy a few new pieces to get it to
 connect. Here again you can use a flexible connector to make that
 easier, I opted not to since the prior heater did not have that.
 My water heater is a power vent (the exhaust pipe is PVC) so I had to
 buy the same in the replacement. That adds a substantial amount to the
 price but in theory it's more efficient.
 It took me a good half a day but I work slowly and deliberately. A pro
 would probably have had it done in a hour or two.
 Allan
 Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:
> Is this a simple diy or a big pain and requires a plumber?
> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/lis

Re: [MBZ] Water heater replacement

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

Mine was covered by the HOW but I had to pay for the safety valve ($300).

On Wed, Jun 10, 2020 at 5:19 PM Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Lowe’s will be just as much, I’m sure.
>
> -D
>
> > On Jun 10, 2020, at 5:17 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > No that was calling local plumbing places. Seems like a ripoff to me. I
> guess I’m going to do it myself.
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On Jun 10, 2020, at 4:16 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> If it’s Lowe’s, yes. They gouge the piss out of you on installs. They
> sub it to a local plumber and then add profit on top of that. I asked for a
> quote on my last one and it was nearly as much as the water heater itself.
> >>
> >> No thanks.
> >>
> >> -D
> >>
> >>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 5:12 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> The wife called around and cheapest quote she got was $1200. Looking
> at Lowe’s at HD can get one for about $400. They really want $600 to
> install it?
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>
> >> On Jun 10, 2020, at 3:36 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>  YOu know too there is like a 3yr and a 5yr warranty tank.  They are
> the exact some unit, you're just paying for the additional warranty time.
> 
>  Replacing one is not hard if you have the tools and want to waste the
> time chasing after it and dealing with it, but if this is a rental then go
> ahead and pay the man, your time is likely more valuable (like for working
> on cars!)
> 
>  --FT
> 
> > On 6/10/20 4:28 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
> > I’m getting quotes for the cheapest tank they can find. The sad part
> is I just bought a home warranty the other day because I figured the
> systems are all 15 years old and will start requiring replacement in the
> near future. I normally don’t do these but know several people with rentals
> and they say the warranties have paid for themselves. It doesn’t kick in
> until next month though.
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
>  On Jun 10, 2020, at 3:13 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >> You know, for a rental I might be more inclined to call a plumber
> and
> >> expense the cost. Depends how much time you have to fool with it.
> Also
> >> if you hire a plumber then they are liable for the installation
> being
> >> done correctly. Same reason I only work on my own cars, not anyone
> >> else's.
> >> One more thing, if you don't have a pan under the heater, I would
> add
> >> that, to prevent water damage when (not if) the tank eventually
> starts
> >> leaking. Mine didn't have that originally, but it was near a floor
> drain
> >> in the basement so I wasn't too worried. However the floor was not
> >> sloped toward the drain enough so when the tank sprang a leak, the
> water
> >> ran all over the place. I added a pan with a drain pipe running
> directly
> >> to the floor drain.
> >> Allan
> >> Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:
> >>> It’s at the rental house and can’t remember what kind of pipe it
> is but it’s in the garage closet and easy to get to. It’s natural gas.
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> > On Jun 10, 2020, at 2:57 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>  Just did this a couple of weeks ago.
>  Is your plumbing CPVC, copper, or something else?
>  Gas or electric heater? Do you have good access to all the
> fittings?
>  Mine was pretty straightforward. Replaced a natural gas heater
> with same
>  capacity natural gas. Though it was basically the same size tank,
> the
>  locations of the fittings were a little different. I could have
> used
>  flex connectors with push-on ("Sharkbite") fittings to connect to
> the
>  existing plumbing but I don't trust Sharkbite fittings. I have
> CPVC
>  plumbing so I cut, fit, and cemented new pipe to connect the
> heater.
>  Gas supply connection was also not exactly in the same place. It's
>  threaded black iron pipe. Had to buy a few new pieces to get it to
>  connect. Here again you can use a flexible connector to make that
>  easier, I opted not to since the prior heater did not have that.
>  My water heater is a power vent (the exhaust pipe is PVC) so I
> had to
>  buy the same in the replacement. That adds a substantial amount
> to the
>  price but in theory it's more efficient.
>  It took me a good half a day but I work slowly and deliberately.
> A pro
>  would probably have had it done in a hour or two.
>  Allan
>  Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:
> > Is this a simple diy or a big pain and requires a plumber?
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >> _

Re: [MBZ] Water heater replacement

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Lowe’s will be just as much, I’m sure.

-D

> On Jun 10, 2020, at 5:17 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> No that was calling local plumbing places. Seems like a ripoff to me. I guess 
> I’m going to do it myself. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 4:16 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> If it’s Lowe’s, yes. They gouge the piss out of you on installs. They sub 
>> it to a local plumber and then add profit on top of that. I asked for a 
>> quote on my last one and it was nearly as much as the water heater itself.
>> 
>> No thanks.
>> 
>> -D
>> 
>>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 5:12 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> The wife called around and cheapest quote she got was $1200. Looking at 
>>> Lowe’s at HD can get one for about $400. They really want $600 to install 
>>> it?
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 3:36 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
 YOu know too there is like a 3yr and a 5yr warranty tank.  They are the 
 exact some unit, you're just paying for the additional warranty time.
 
 Replacing one is not hard if you have the tools and want to waste the time 
 chasing after it and dealing with it, but if this is a rental then go 
 ahead and pay the man, your time is likely more valuable (like for working 
 on cars!)
 
 --FT
 
> On 6/10/20 4:28 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
> I’m getting quotes for the cheapest tank they can find. The sad part is I 
> just bought a home warranty the other day because I figured the systems 
> are all 15 years old and will start requiring replacement in the near 
> future. I normally don’t do these but know several people with rentals 
> and they say the warranties have paid for themselves. It doesn’t kick in 
> until next month though.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
 On Jun 10, 2020, at 3:13 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
  wrote:
>> You know, for a rental I might be more inclined to call a plumber and
>> expense the cost. Depends how much time you have to fool with it. Also
>> if you hire a plumber then they are liable for the installation being
>> done correctly. Same reason I only work on my own cars, not anyone
>> else's.
>> One more thing, if you don't have a pan under the heater, I would add
>> that, to prevent water damage when (not if) the tank eventually starts
>> leaking. Mine didn't have that originally, but it was near a floor drain
>> in the basement so I wasn't too worried. However the floor was not
>> sloped toward the drain enough so when the tank sprang a leak, the water
>> ran all over the place. I added a pan with a drain pipe running directly
>> to the floor drain.
>> Allan
>> Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:
>>> It’s at the rental house and can’t remember what kind of pipe it is but 
>>> it’s in the garage closet and easy to get to. It’s natural gas.
>>> Sent from my iPhone
> On Jun 10, 2020, at 2:57 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
 Just did this a couple of weeks ago.
 Is your plumbing CPVC, copper, or something else?
 Gas or electric heater? Do you have good access to all the fittings?
 Mine was pretty straightforward. Replaced a natural gas heater with 
 same
 capacity natural gas. Though it was basically the same size tank, the
 locations of the fittings were a little different. I could have used
 flex connectors with push-on ("Sharkbite") fittings to connect to the
 existing plumbing but I don't trust Sharkbite fittings. I have CPVC
 plumbing so I cut, fit, and cemented new pipe to connect the heater.
 Gas supply connection was also not exactly in the same place. It's
 threaded black iron pipe. Had to buy a few new pieces to get it to
 connect. Here again you can use a flexible connector to make that
 easier, I opted not to since the prior heater did not have that.
 My water heater is a power vent (the exhaust pipe is PVC) so I had to
 buy the same in the replacement. That adds a substantial amount to the
 price but in theory it's more efficient.
 It took me a good half a day but I work slowly and deliberately. A pro
 would probably have had it done in a hour or two.
 Allan
 Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:
> Is this a simple diy or a big pain and requires a plumber?
> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives h

Re: [MBZ] Water heater replacement

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

No that was calling local plumbing places. Seems like a ripoff to me. I guess 
I’m going to do it myself. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 10, 2020, at 4:16 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> If it’s Lowe’s, yes. They gouge the piss out of you on installs. They sub it 
> to a local plumber and then add profit on top of that. I asked for a quote on 
> my last one and it was nearly as much as the water heater itself.
> 
> No thanks.
> 
> -D
> 
>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 5:12 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> The wife called around and cheapest quote she got was $1200. Looking at 
>> Lowe’s at HD can get one for about $400. They really want $600 to install it?
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
> On Jun 10, 2020, at 3:36 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
>>> YOu know too there is like a 3yr and a 5yr warranty tank.  They are the 
>>> exact some unit, you're just paying for the additional warranty time.
>>> 
>>> Replacing one is not hard if you have the tools and want to waste the time 
>>> chasing after it and dealing with it, but if this is a rental then go ahead 
>>> and pay the man, your time is likely more valuable (like for working on 
>>> cars!)
>>> 
>>> --FT
>>> 
 On 6/10/20 4:28 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
 I’m getting quotes for the cheapest tank they can find. The sad part is I 
 just bought a home warranty the other day because I figured the systems 
 are all 15 years old and will start requiring replacement in the near 
 future. I normally don’t do these but know several people with rentals and 
 they say the warranties have paid for themselves. It doesn’t kick in until 
 next month though.
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
>>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 3:13 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
> You know, for a rental I might be more inclined to call a plumber and
> expense the cost. Depends how much time you have to fool with it. Also
> if you hire a plumber then they are liable for the installation being
> done correctly. Same reason I only work on my own cars, not anyone
> else's.
> One more thing, if you don't have a pan under the heater, I would add
> that, to prevent water damage when (not if) the tank eventually starts
> leaking. Mine didn't have that originally, but it was near a floor drain
> in the basement so I wasn't too worried. However the floor was not
> sloped toward the drain enough so when the tank sprang a leak, the water
> ran all over the place. I added a pan with a drain pipe running directly
> to the floor drain.
> Allan
> Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:
>> It’s at the rental house and can’t remember what kind of pipe it is but 
>> it’s in the garage closet and easy to get to. It’s natural gas.
>> Sent from my iPhone
 On Jun 10, 2020, at 2:57 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
  wrote:
>>> Just did this a couple of weeks ago.
>>> Is your plumbing CPVC, copper, or something else?
>>> Gas or electric heater? Do you have good access to all the fittings?
>>> Mine was pretty straightforward. Replaced a natural gas heater with same
>>> capacity natural gas. Though it was basically the same size tank, the
>>> locations of the fittings were a little different. I could have used
>>> flex connectors with push-on ("Sharkbite") fittings to connect to the
>>> existing plumbing but I don't trust Sharkbite fittings. I have CPVC
>>> plumbing so I cut, fit, and cemented new pipe to connect the heater.
>>> Gas supply connection was also not exactly in the same place. It's
>>> threaded black iron pipe. Had to buy a few new pieces to get it to
>>> connect. Here again you can use a flexible connector to make that
>>> easier, I opted not to since the prior heater did not have that.
>>> My water heater is a power vent (the exhaust pipe is PVC) so I had to
>>> buy the same in the replacement. That adds a substantial amount to the
>>> price but in theory it's more efficient.
>>> It took me a good half a day but I work slowly and deliberately. A pro
>>> would probably have had it done in a hour or two.
>>> Allan
>>> Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:
 Is this a simple diy or a big pain and requires a plumber?
 Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>> -- 
>>> --FT
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 

Re: [MBZ] Water heater replacement

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

If it’s Lowe’s, yes. They gouge the piss out of you on installs. They sub it to 
a local plumber and then add profit on top of that. I asked for a quote on my 
last one and it was nearly as much as the water heater itself.

No thanks.

-D

> On Jun 10, 2020, at 5:12 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> The wife called around and cheapest quote she got was $1200. Looking at 
> Lowe’s at HD can get one for about $400. They really want $600 to install it?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 3:36 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>> YOu know too there is like a 3yr and a 5yr warranty tank.  They are the 
>> exact some unit, you're just paying for the additional warranty time.
>> 
>> Replacing one is not hard if you have the tools and want to waste the time 
>> chasing after it and dealing with it, but if this is a rental then go ahead 
>> and pay the man, your time is likely more valuable (like for working on 
>> cars!)
>> 
>> --FT
>> 
>>> On 6/10/20 4:28 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
>>> I’m getting quotes for the cheapest tank they can find. The sad part is I 
>>> just bought a home warranty the other day because I figured the systems are 
>>> all 15 years old and will start requiring replacement in the near future. I 
>>> normally don’t do these but know several people with rentals and they say 
>>> the warranties have paid for themselves. It doesn’t kick in until next 
>>> month though.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 3:13 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
 You know, for a rental I might be more inclined to call a plumber and
 expense the cost. Depends how much time you have to fool with it. Also
 if you hire a plumber then they are liable for the installation being
 done correctly. Same reason I only work on my own cars, not anyone
 else's.
 One more thing, if you don't have a pan under the heater, I would add
 that, to prevent water damage when (not if) the tank eventually starts
 leaking. Mine didn't have that originally, but it was near a floor drain
 in the basement so I wasn't too worried. However the floor was not
 sloped toward the drain enough so when the tank sprang a leak, the water
 ran all over the place. I added a pan with a drain pipe running directly
 to the floor drain.
 Allan
 Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:
> It’s at the rental house and can’t remember what kind of pipe it is but 
> it’s in the garage closet and easy to get to. It’s natural gas.
> Sent from my iPhone
>>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 2:57 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>> Just did this a couple of weeks ago.
>> Is your plumbing CPVC, copper, or something else?
>> Gas or electric heater? Do you have good access to all the fittings?
>> Mine was pretty straightforward. Replaced a natural gas heater with same
>> capacity natural gas. Though it was basically the same size tank, the
>> locations of the fittings were a little different. I could have used
>> flex connectors with push-on ("Sharkbite") fittings to connect to the
>> existing plumbing but I don't trust Sharkbite fittings. I have CPVC
>> plumbing so I cut, fit, and cemented new pipe to connect the heater.
>> Gas supply connection was also not exactly in the same place. It's
>> threaded black iron pipe. Had to buy a few new pieces to get it to
>> connect. Here again you can use a flexible connector to make that
>> easier, I opted not to since the prior heater did not have that.
>> My water heater is a power vent (the exhaust pipe is PVC) so I had to
>> buy the same in the replacement. That adds a substantial amount to the
>> price but in theory it's more efficient.
>> It took me a good half a day but I work slowly and deliberately. A pro
>> would probably have had it done in a hour or two.
>> Allan
>> Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:
>>> Is this a simple diy or a big pain and requires a plumber?
>>> Sent from my iPhone
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> 
>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> -- 
>> --FT
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list arch

Re: [MBZ] Water heater replacement

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

The wife called around and cheapest quote she got was $1200. Looking at Lowe’s 
at HD can get one for about $400. They really want $600 to install it?

Sent from my iPhone

>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 3:36 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
> YOu know too there is like a 3yr and a 5yr warranty tank.  They are the 
> exact some unit, you're just paying for the additional warranty time.
> 
> Replacing one is not hard if you have the tools and want to waste the time 
> chasing after it and dealing with it, but if this is a rental then go ahead 
> and pay the man, your time is likely more valuable (like for working on cars!)
> 
> --FT
> 
>> On 6/10/20 4:28 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
>> I’m getting quotes for the cheapest tank they can find. The sad part is I 
>> just bought a home warranty the other day because I figured the systems are 
>> all 15 years old and will start requiring replacement in the near future. I 
>> normally don’t do these but know several people with rentals and they say 
>> the warranties have paid for themselves. It doesn’t kick in until next month 
>> though.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
> On Jun 10, 2020, at 3:13 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
>>> You know, for a rental I might be more inclined to call a plumber and
>>> expense the cost. Depends how much time you have to fool with it. Also
>>> if you hire a plumber then they are liable for the installation being
>>> done correctly. Same reason I only work on my own cars, not anyone
>>> else's.
>>> One more thing, if you don't have a pan under the heater, I would add
>>> that, to prevent water damage when (not if) the tank eventually starts
>>> leaking. Mine didn't have that originally, but it was near a floor drain
>>> in the basement so I wasn't too worried. However the floor was not
>>> sloped toward the drain enough so when the tank sprang a leak, the water
>>> ran all over the place. I added a pan with a drain pipe running directly
>>> to the floor drain.
>>> Allan
>>> Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:
 It’s at the rental house and can’t remember what kind of pipe it is but 
 it’s in the garage closet and easy to get to. It’s natural gas.
 Sent from my iPhone
>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 2:57 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
> Just did this a couple of weeks ago.
> Is your plumbing CPVC, copper, or something else?
> Gas or electric heater? Do you have good access to all the fittings?
> Mine was pretty straightforward. Replaced a natural gas heater with same
> capacity natural gas. Though it was basically the same size tank, the
> locations of the fittings were a little different. I could have used
> flex connectors with push-on ("Sharkbite") fittings to connect to the
> existing plumbing but I don't trust Sharkbite fittings. I have CPVC
> plumbing so I cut, fit, and cemented new pipe to connect the heater.
> Gas supply connection was also not exactly in the same place. It's
> threaded black iron pipe. Had to buy a few new pieces to get it to
> connect. Here again you can use a flexible connector to make that
> easier, I opted not to since the prior heater did not have that.
> My water heater is a power vent (the exhaust pipe is PVC) so I had to
> buy the same in the replacement. That adds a substantial amount to the
> price but in theory it's more efficient.
> It took me a good half a day but I work slowly and deliberately. A pro
> would probably have had it done in a hour or two.
> Allan
> Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:
>> Is this a simple diy or a big pain and requires a plumber?
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> -- 
> --FT
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water heater replacement

[Scott Ritchey via Mercedes]

Yes.  Tanks are glass lined, which is great until glass begins to crack from 
thermo-cycling and handling.  If the actual tank leaks it must be replaced.  
Leaks in hoses and fittings (as well as heating elements and thermostats) are 
economical to replace as parts.  In addition to replacing the anode, periodic 
draining is a good idea to remove sediment.  Power MUST be turned off before 
draining or elements will fry.  If tank won't drain (common with sediment) 
backflush just enough to clear the drain.  Sometimes just stomping on the drain 
hose helps too. My 15-year-old WH is still OK although I did have to replace a 
corrugated copper flex hose (hot side) after it corroded through.

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes On Behalf Of Allan Streib via Mercedes
Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2020 4:47 PM
To: Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
Cc: Allan Streib 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Water heater replacement

In my experience, the tanks always leak eventually. This has been the only 
reason I've ever needed to replace a water heater. But they last far longer 
than 5 years unless maybe you have some really corrosive water.

Also the tank will likely have a replaceable sacrificial anode, which most 
people are not aware of but if you replace that as needed, in theory the tank 
should not corrode.

The heater I replaced last week was original to the house, over 20 years old.

Allan


Floyd Thursby via Mercedes  writes:

> YOu know too there is like a 3yr and a 5yr warranty tank.  They are 
> the exact some unit, you're just paying for the additional warranty time.
>
> Replacing one is not hard if you have the tools and want to waste the 
> time chasing after it and dealing with it, but if this is a rental 
> then go ahead and pay the man, your time is likely more valuable (like 
> for working on cars!)
>
> --FT
>
> On 6/10/20 4:28 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
>> I’m getting quotes for the cheapest tank they can find. The sad part is I 
>> just bought a home warranty the other day because I figured the systems are 
>> all 15 years old and will start requiring replacement in the near future. I 
>> normally don’t do these but know several people with rentals and they say 
>> the warranties have paid for themselves. It doesn’t kick in until next month 
>> though.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 3:13 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>>>
>>> You know, for a rental I might be more inclined to call a plumber 
>>> and expense the cost. Depends how much time you have to fool with 
>>> it. Also if you hire a plumber then they are liable for the 
>>> installation being done correctly. Same reason I only work on my own 
>>> cars, not anyone else's.
>>>
>>> One more thing, if you don't have a pan under the heater, I would 
>>> add that, to prevent water damage when (not if) the tank eventually 
>>> starts leaking. Mine didn't have that originally, but it was near a 
>>> floor drain in the basement so I wasn't too worried. However the 
>>> floor was not sloped toward the drain enough so when the tank sprang 
>>> a leak, the water ran all over the place. I added a pan with a drain 
>>> pipe running directly to the floor drain.
>>>
>>> Allan
>>>
>>>
>>> Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:
>>>
>>>> It’s at the rental house and can’t remember what kind of pipe it is but 
>>>> it’s in the garage closet and easy to get to. It’s natural gas.
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>
>>>>>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 2:57 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>>>>>>  wrote:
>>>>> Just did this a couple of weeks ago.
>>>>>
>>>>> Is your plumbing CPVC, copper, or something else?
>>>>>
>>>>> Gas or electric heater? Do you have good access to all the fittings?
>>>>>
>>>>> Mine was pretty straightforward. Replaced a natural gas heater 
>>>>> with same capacity natural gas. Though it was basically the same 
>>>>> size tank, the locations of the fittings were a little different. 
>>>>> I could have used flex connectors with push-on ("Sharkbite") 
>>>>> fittings to connect to the existing plumbing but I don't trust 
>>>>> Sharkbite fittings. I have CPVC plumbing so I cut, fit, and cemented new 
>>>>> pipe to connect the heater.
>>>>>
>>>>> Gas supply connection was also not exactly in the same place. It's 
>>>>> threaded black iron pipe. Had to buy a few new piece

Re: [MBZ] Water heater replacement

[Allan Streib via Mercedes]

In my experience, the tanks always leak eventually. This has been the
only reason I've ever needed to replace a water heater. But they last
far longer than 5 years unless maybe you have some really corrosive
water.

Also the tank will likely have a replaceable sacrificial anode, which
most people are not aware of but if you replace that as needed, in
theory the tank should not corrode.

The heater I replaced last week was original to the house, over 20 years
old.

Allan


Floyd Thursby via Mercedes  writes:

> YOu know too there is like a 3yr and a 5yr warranty tank.  They are the 
> exact some unit, you're just paying for the additional warranty time.
>
> Replacing one is not hard if you have the tools and want to waste the 
> time chasing after it and dealing with it, but if this is a rental then 
> go ahead and pay the man, your time is likely more valuable (like for 
> working on cars!)
>
> --FT
>
> On 6/10/20 4:28 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
>> I’m getting quotes for the cheapest tank they can find. The sad part is I 
>> just bought a home warranty the other day because I figured the systems are 
>> all 15 years old and will start requiring replacement in the near future. I 
>> normally don’t do these but know several people with rentals and they say 
>> the warranties have paid for themselves. It doesn’t kick in until next month 
>> though.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 3:13 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>>>
>>> You know, for a rental I might be more inclined to call a plumber and
>>> expense the cost. Depends how much time you have to fool with it. Also
>>> if you hire a plumber then they are liable for the installation being
>>> done correctly. Same reason I only work on my own cars, not anyone
>>> else's.
>>>
>>> One more thing, if you don't have a pan under the heater, I would add
>>> that, to prevent water damage when (not if) the tank eventually starts
>>> leaking. Mine didn't have that originally, but it was near a floor drain
>>> in the basement so I wasn't too worried. However the floor was not
>>> sloped toward the drain enough so when the tank sprang a leak, the water
>>> ran all over the place. I added a pan with a drain pipe running directly
>>> to the floor drain.
>>>
>>> Allan
>>>
>>>
>>> Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:
>>>
 It’s at the rental house and can’t remember what kind of pipe it is but 
 it’s in the garage closet and easy to get to. It’s natural gas.

 Sent from my iPhone

>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 2:57 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
> Just did this a couple of weeks ago.
>
> Is your plumbing CPVC, copper, or something else?
>
> Gas or electric heater? Do you have good access to all the fittings?
>
> Mine was pretty straightforward. Replaced a natural gas heater with same
> capacity natural gas. Though it was basically the same size tank, the
> locations of the fittings were a little different. I could have used
> flex connectors with push-on ("Sharkbite") fittings to connect to the
> existing plumbing but I don't trust Sharkbite fittings. I have CPVC
> plumbing so I cut, fit, and cemented new pipe to connect the heater.
>
> Gas supply connection was also not exactly in the same place. It's
> threaded black iron pipe. Had to buy a few new pieces to get it to
> connect. Here again you can use a flexible connector to make that
> easier, I opted not to since the prior heater did not have that.
>
> My water heater is a power vent (the exhaust pipe is PVC) so I had to
> buy the same in the replacement. That adds a substantial amount to the
> price but in theory it's more efficient.
>
> It took me a good half a day but I work slowly and deliberately. A pro
> would probably have had it done in a hour or two.
>
> Allan
>
>
> Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:
>
>> Is this a simple diy or a big pain and requires a plumber?
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water heater replacement

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

YOu know too there is like a 3yr and a 5yr warranty tank.  They are the 
exact some unit, you're just paying for the additional warranty time.


Replacing one is not hard if you have the tools and want to waste the 
time chasing after it and dealing with it, but if this is a rental then 
go ahead and pay the man, your time is likely more valuable (like for 
working on cars!)


--FT

On 6/10/20 4:28 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

I’m getting quotes for the cheapest tank they can find. The sad part is I just 
bought a home warranty the other day because I figured the systems are all 15 
years old and will start requiring replacement in the near future. I normally 
don’t do these but know several people with rentals and they say the warranties 
have paid for themselves. It doesn’t kick in until next month though.

Sent from my iPhone


On Jun 10, 2020, at 3:13 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes  
wrote:

You know, for a rental I might be more inclined to call a plumber and
expense the cost. Depends how much time you have to fool with it. Also
if you hire a plumber then they are liable for the installation being
done correctly. Same reason I only work on my own cars, not anyone
else's.

One more thing, if you don't have a pan under the heater, I would add
that, to prevent water damage when (not if) the tank eventually starts
leaking. Mine didn't have that originally, but it was near a floor drain
in the basement so I wasn't too worried. However the floor was not
sloped toward the drain enough so when the tank sprang a leak, the water
ran all over the place. I added a pan with a drain pipe running directly
to the floor drain.

Allan


Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:


It’s at the rental house and can’t remember what kind of pipe it is but it’s in 
the garage closet and easy to get to. It’s natural gas.

Sent from my iPhone


On Jun 10, 2020, at 2:57 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes  
wrote:

Just did this a couple of weeks ago.

Is your plumbing CPVC, copper, or something else?

Gas or electric heater? Do you have good access to all the fittings?

Mine was pretty straightforward. Replaced a natural gas heater with same
capacity natural gas. Though it was basically the same size tank, the
locations of the fittings were a little different. I could have used
flex connectors with push-on ("Sharkbite") fittings to connect to the
existing plumbing but I don't trust Sharkbite fittings. I have CPVC
plumbing so I cut, fit, and cemented new pipe to connect the heater.

Gas supply connection was also not exactly in the same place. It's
threaded black iron pipe. Had to buy a few new pieces to get it to
connect. Here again you can use a flexible connector to make that
easier, I opted not to since the prior heater did not have that.

My water heater is a power vent (the exhaust pipe is PVC) so I had to
buy the same in the replacement. That adds a substantial amount to the
price but in theory it's more efficient.

It took me a good half a day but I work slowly and deliberately. A pro
would probably have had it done in a hour or two.

Allan


Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:


Is this a simple diy or a big pain and requires a plumber?

Sent from my iPhone


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


--
--FT


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water heater replacement

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

Yes

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 10, 2020, at 3:26 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Not only this, but it’s an expense against the operating costs of the 
> rental. Because you are doing cost accounting for tax purposes, aren’t you?
> 
> -D
> 
>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 4:12 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> You know, for a rental I might be more inclined to call a plumber and
>> expense the cost. Depends how much time you have to fool with it. Also
>> if you hire a plumber then they are liable for the installation being
>> done correctly. Same reason I only work on my own cars, not anyone
>> else's.
>> 
>> One more thing, if you don't have a pan under the heater, I would add
>> that, to prevent water damage when (not if) the tank eventually starts
>> leaking. Mine didn't have that originally, but it was near a floor drain
>> in the basement so I wasn't too worried. However the floor was not
>> sloped toward the drain enough so when the tank sprang a leak, the water
>> ran all over the place. I added a pan with a drain pipe running directly
>> to the floor drain.
>> 
>> Allan
>> 
>> 
>> Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:
>> 
>>> It’s at the rental house and can’t remember what kind of pipe it is but 
>>> it’s in the garage closet and easy to get to. It’s natural gas. 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
 On Jun 10, 2020, at 2:57 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
  wrote:
 
 Just did this a couple of weeks ago.
 
 Is your plumbing CPVC, copper, or something else?
 
 Gas or electric heater? Do you have good access to all the fittings?
 
 Mine was pretty straightforward. Replaced a natural gas heater with same
 capacity natural gas. Though it was basically the same size tank, the
 locations of the fittings were a little different. I could have used
 flex connectors with push-on ("Sharkbite") fittings to connect to the
 existing plumbing but I don't trust Sharkbite fittings. I have CPVC
 plumbing so I cut, fit, and cemented new pipe to connect the heater.
 
 Gas supply connection was also not exactly in the same place. It's
 threaded black iron pipe. Had to buy a few new pieces to get it to
 connect. Here again you can use a flexible connector to make that
 easier, I opted not to since the prior heater did not have that.
 
 My water heater is a power vent (the exhaust pipe is PVC) so I had to
 buy the same in the replacement. That adds a substantial amount to the
 price but in theory it's more efficient.
 
 It took me a good half a day but I work slowly and deliberately. A pro
 would probably have had it done in a hour or two.
 
 Allan
 
 
 Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:
 
> Is this a simple diy or a big pain and requires a plumber?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water heater replacement

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

I’m getting quotes for the cheapest tank they can find. The sad part is I just 
bought a home warranty the other day because I figured the systems are all 15 
years old and will start requiring replacement in the near future. I normally 
don’t do these but know several people with rentals and they say the warranties 
have paid for themselves. It doesn’t kick in until next month though. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 10, 2020, at 3:13 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> You know, for a rental I might be more inclined to call a plumber and
> expense the cost. Depends how much time you have to fool with it. Also
> if you hire a plumber then they are liable for the installation being
> done correctly. Same reason I only work on my own cars, not anyone
> else's.
> 
> One more thing, if you don't have a pan under the heater, I would add
> that, to prevent water damage when (not if) the tank eventually starts
> leaking. Mine didn't have that originally, but it was near a floor drain
> in the basement so I wasn't too worried. However the floor was not
> sloped toward the drain enough so when the tank sprang a leak, the water
> ran all over the place. I added a pan with a drain pipe running directly
> to the floor drain.
> 
> Allan
> 
> 
> Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:
> 
>> It’s at the rental house and can’t remember what kind of pipe it is but it’s 
>> in the garage closet and easy to get to. It’s natural gas. 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
 On Jun 10, 2020, at 2:57 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Just did this a couple of weeks ago.
>>> 
>>> Is your plumbing CPVC, copper, or something else?
>>> 
>>> Gas or electric heater? Do you have good access to all the fittings?
>>> 
>>> Mine was pretty straightforward. Replaced a natural gas heater with same
>>> capacity natural gas. Though it was basically the same size tank, the
>>> locations of the fittings were a little different. I could have used
>>> flex connectors with push-on ("Sharkbite") fittings to connect to the
>>> existing plumbing but I don't trust Sharkbite fittings. I have CPVC
>>> plumbing so I cut, fit, and cemented new pipe to connect the heater.
>>> 
>>> Gas supply connection was also not exactly in the same place. It's
>>> threaded black iron pipe. Had to buy a few new pieces to get it to
>>> connect. Here again you can use a flexible connector to make that
>>> easier, I opted not to since the prior heater did not have that.
>>> 
>>> My water heater is a power vent (the exhaust pipe is PVC) so I had to
>>> buy the same in the replacement. That adds a substantial amount to the
>>> price but in theory it's more efficient.
>>> 
>>> It took me a good half a day but I work slowly and deliberately. A pro
>>> would probably have had it done in a hour or two.
>>> 
>>> Allan
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:
>>> 
 Is this a simple diy or a big pain and requires a plumber?
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water heater replacement

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Not only this, but it’s an expense against the operating costs of the rental. 
Because you are doing cost accounting for tax purposes, aren’t you?

-D

> On Jun 10, 2020, at 4:12 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> You know, for a rental I might be more inclined to call a plumber and
> expense the cost. Depends how much time you have to fool with it. Also
> if you hire a plumber then they are liable for the installation being
> done correctly. Same reason I only work on my own cars, not anyone
> else's.
> 
> One more thing, if you don't have a pan under the heater, I would add
> that, to prevent water damage when (not if) the tank eventually starts
> leaking. Mine didn't have that originally, but it was near a floor drain
> in the basement so I wasn't too worried. However the floor was not
> sloped toward the drain enough so when the tank sprang a leak, the water
> ran all over the place. I added a pan with a drain pipe running directly
> to the floor drain.
> 
> Allan
> 
> 
> Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:
> 
>> It’s at the rental house and can’t remember what kind of pipe it is but it’s 
>> in the garage closet and easy to get to. It’s natural gas. 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 2:57 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Just did this a couple of weeks ago.
>>> 
>>> Is your plumbing CPVC, copper, or something else?
>>> 
>>> Gas or electric heater? Do you have good access to all the fittings?
>>> 
>>> Mine was pretty straightforward. Replaced a natural gas heater with same
>>> capacity natural gas. Though it was basically the same size tank, the
>>> locations of the fittings were a little different. I could have used
>>> flex connectors with push-on ("Sharkbite") fittings to connect to the
>>> existing plumbing but I don't trust Sharkbite fittings. I have CPVC
>>> plumbing so I cut, fit, and cemented new pipe to connect the heater.
>>> 
>>> Gas supply connection was also not exactly in the same place. It's
>>> threaded black iron pipe. Had to buy a few new pieces to get it to
>>> connect. Here again you can use a flexible connector to make that
>>> easier, I opted not to since the prior heater did not have that.
>>> 
>>> My water heater is a power vent (the exhaust pipe is PVC) so I had to
>>> buy the same in the replacement. That adds a substantial amount to the
>>> price but in theory it's more efficient.
>>> 
>>> It took me a good half a day but I work slowly and deliberately. A pro
>>> would probably have had it done in a hour or two.
>>> 
>>> Allan
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:
>>> 
 Is this a simple diy or a big pain and requires a plumber?
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water heater replacement

[Allan Streib via Mercedes]

You know, for a rental I might be more inclined to call a plumber and
expense the cost. Depends how much time you have to fool with it. Also
if you hire a plumber then they are liable for the installation being
done correctly. Same reason I only work on my own cars, not anyone
else's.

One more thing, if you don't have a pan under the heater, I would add
that, to prevent water damage when (not if) the tank eventually starts
leaking. Mine didn't have that originally, but it was near a floor drain
in the basement so I wasn't too worried. However the floor was not
sloped toward the drain enough so when the tank sprang a leak, the water
ran all over the place. I added a pan with a drain pipe running directly
to the floor drain.

Allan


Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:

> It’s at the rental house and can’t remember what kind of pipe it is but it’s 
> in the garage closet and easy to get to. It’s natural gas. 
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 2:57 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Just did this a couple of weeks ago.
>> 
>> Is your plumbing CPVC, copper, or something else?
>> 
>> Gas or electric heater? Do you have good access to all the fittings?
>> 
>> Mine was pretty straightforward. Replaced a natural gas heater with same
>> capacity natural gas. Though it was basically the same size tank, the
>> locations of the fittings were a little different. I could have used
>> flex connectors with push-on ("Sharkbite") fittings to connect to the
>> existing plumbing but I don't trust Sharkbite fittings. I have CPVC
>> plumbing so I cut, fit, and cemented new pipe to connect the heater.
>> 
>> Gas supply connection was also not exactly in the same place. It's
>> threaded black iron pipe. Had to buy a few new pieces to get it to
>> connect. Here again you can use a flexible connector to make that
>> easier, I opted not to since the prior heater did not have that.
>> 
>> My water heater is a power vent (the exhaust pipe is PVC) so I had to
>> buy the same in the replacement. That adds a substantial amount to the
>> price but in theory it's more efficient.
>> 
>> It took me a good half a day but I work slowly and deliberately. A pro
>> would probably have had it done in a hour or two.
>> 
>> Allan
>> 
>> 
>> Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:
>> 
>>> Is this a simple diy or a big pain and requires a plumber?
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water heater replacement

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

It’s at the rental house and can’t remember what kind of pipe it is but it’s in 
the garage closet and easy to get to. It’s natural gas. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 10, 2020, at 2:57 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Just did this a couple of weeks ago.
> 
> Is your plumbing CPVC, copper, or something else?
> 
> Gas or electric heater? Do you have good access to all the fittings?
> 
> Mine was pretty straightforward. Replaced a natural gas heater with same
> capacity natural gas. Though it was basically the same size tank, the
> locations of the fittings were a little different. I could have used
> flex connectors with push-on ("Sharkbite") fittings to connect to the
> existing plumbing but I don't trust Sharkbite fittings. I have CPVC
> plumbing so I cut, fit, and cemented new pipe to connect the heater.
> 
> Gas supply connection was also not exactly in the same place. It's
> threaded black iron pipe. Had to buy a few new pieces to get it to
> connect. Here again you can use a flexible connector to make that
> easier, I opted not to since the prior heater did not have that.
> 
> My water heater is a power vent (the exhaust pipe is PVC) so I had to
> buy the same in the replacement. That adds a substantial amount to the
> price but in theory it's more efficient.
> 
> It took me a good half a day but I work slowly and deliberately. A pro
> would probably have had it done in a hour or two.
> 
> Allan
> 
> 
> Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:
> 
>> Is this a simple diy or a big pain and requires a plumber?
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water heater replacement

[Allan Streib via Mercedes]

Just did this a couple of weeks ago.

Is your plumbing CPVC, copper, or something else?

Gas or electric heater? Do you have good access to all the fittings?

Mine was pretty straightforward. Replaced a natural gas heater with same
capacity natural gas. Though it was basically the same size tank, the
locations of the fittings were a little different. I could have used
flex connectors with push-on ("Sharkbite") fittings to connect to the
existing plumbing but I don't trust Sharkbite fittings. I have CPVC
plumbing so I cut, fit, and cemented new pipe to connect the heater.

Gas supply connection was also not exactly in the same place. It's
threaded black iron pipe. Had to buy a few new pieces to get it to
connect. Here again you can use a flexible connector to make that
easier, I opted not to since the prior heater did not have that.

My water heater is a power vent (the exhaust pipe is PVC) so I had to
buy the same in the replacement. That adds a substantial amount to the
price but in theory it's more efficient.

It took me a good half a day but I work slowly and deliberately. A pro
would probably have had it done in a hour or two.

Allan


Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  writes:

> Is this a simple diy or a big pain and requires a plumber?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water pump $500E300D

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Mon, 3 Sep 2018 16:54:36 -0400 Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes
 wrote:

> I just got finished, didn’t have time yesterday, put on a new belt, I
> think the tensioner and pulley are good, tight anyway. 
> 
> Was filling up with coolant and it started leaking from the upper hose
> right at the radiator. Has about an inch long cut/gash/blowout right
> near the radiator end. Never saw it, never saw fluid or steam coming
> out. Weird. Maybe it just blew out. Anyway, ordered a new hose
> Contitech from the vicious women on the river, be here Thursday. That
> took about 2 minutes to find and order. Yay. I guess I should replace
> the others too while I’m doing all this, will have to look those up. 
> 
> The pump definitely showed signs of leaking and it was squealing a bit
> so I guess that was a reasonable thing to have done (convincing
> myself...).  
> 
> Now I’m upset I can’t drive the car for a couple more days!  And the
> thing is costing me more money!  It’s up to about $1k now with them new
> tars. 

That thing is going to nickle-and-dime you to death! Time to sell!  :-)


Craig

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water pump $500E300D

[Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes]

I just got finished, didn’t have time yesterday, put on a new belt, I think the 
tensioner and pulley are good, tight anyway. 

Was filling up with coolant and it started leaking from the upper hose right at 
the radiator. Has about an inch long cut/gash/blowout right near the radiator 
end. Never saw it, never saw fluid or steam coming out. Weird. Maybe it just 
blew out. Anyway, ordered a new hose Contitech from the vicious women on the 
river, be here Thursday. That took about 2 minutes to find and order. Yay. I 
guess I should replace the others too while I’m doing all this, will have to 
look those up. 

The pump definitely showed signs of leaking and it was squealing a bit so I 
guess that was a reasonable thing to have done (convincing myself...).  

Now I’m upset I can’t drive the car for a couple more days!  And the thing is 
costing me more money!  It’s up to about $1k now with them new tars. 

--R
Sent from iPhone

> On Sep 3, 2018, at 4:35 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> my new pump came with a short rubber hose - I left mine off and never saw any 
> problems from doing so  while the fan and rad are out now is a good time 
> to check the belt tensioner and rollers.  They seem to wear our every 
> 70,000-100k miles.
> 
> LarryT
> 
> 91 300D
> 
> 
>> On 09/01/2018 3:40 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes wrote:
>> So I’m putting this new water pump on, this is not a particularly 
>> straightforward job, had to remove radiator which has its own set of issues. 
>> And the monkeys who put it back together after whatever wrecks it has had 
>> left out a few parts, but that’s done.
>> 
>> There is a weep hole on top of the pump and a tube fitting for a hose at the 
>> bottom which I guess might be to put a drain hose of some sort on?  I’m not 
>> sure if it goes to some part of the cooling system or is just there to route 
>> whatever might weep out the seal. Anyway there wasn’t one on the old pump 
>> though it looked like there might have been at some point as there was a bit 
>> of corrosion. Anyone know?
>> 
>> --FT
>> Sent from iPhone
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water pump $500E300D

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

my new pump came with a short rubber hose - I left mine off and never 
saw any problems from doing so  while the fan and rad are out now is 
a good time to check the belt tensioner and rollers.  They seem to wear 
our every 70,000-100k miles.


LarryT

91 300D


On 09/01/2018 3:40 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes wrote:

So I’m putting this new water pump on, this is not a particularly 
straightforward job, had to remove radiator which has its own set of issues. 
And the monkeys who put it back together after whatever wrecks it has had left 
out a few parts, but that’s done.

There is a weep hole on top of the pump and a tube fitting for a hose at the 
bottom which I guess might be to put a drain hose of some sort on?  I’m not 
sure if it goes to some part of the cooling system or is just there to route 
whatever might weep out the seal. Anyway there wasn’t one on the old pump 
though it looked like there might have been at some point as there was a bit of 
corrosion. Anyone know?

--FT
Sent from iPhone
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water pump $500E300D

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

You're in virgin territory, Kaleb may be your only hope...
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On September 1, 2018 3:40:53 PM EDT, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
 wrote:
>So I’m putting this new water pump on, this is not a particularly
>straightforward job, had to remove radiator which has its own set of
>issues. And the monkeys who put it back together after whatever wrecks
>it has had left out a few parts, but that’s done. 
>
>There is a weep hole on top of the pump and a tube fitting for a hose
>at the bottom which I guess might be to put a drain hose of some sort
>on?  I’m not sure if it goes to some part of the cooling system or is
>just there to route whatever might weep out the seal. Anyway there
>wasn’t one on the old pump though it looked like there might have been
>at some point as there was a bit of corrosion. Anyone know?
>
>--FT
>Sent from iPhone
>___
>http://www.okiebenz.com
>
>To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

Exactly my worry which is a why I don't want to go that hot...
Curt

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Jan 13, 2018 at 4:34 PM, MG via Mercedes 
wrote:   You may have to be a bit careful with getting the oil too hot. I 
saw a video of old fry oil with water in it being heated to about 
250 Fahrenheit. Not much happened till the guy stirred the oil up 
and the water that had dropped out got to the top. Then there was 
a lot of boiling. Kind of like when you put fries into hot oil. 
With the water emulsified it may just evaporate as it heats but 
you never know.

Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:
>> On January 12, 2018 at 6:08 PM Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> I've seen some people who claim getting the oil to 100C is enough to get the 
>> water to settle out. We're going to give it a try anyway.
> 
> I bet 120°C would turn the water to gas.
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

  
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

> On January 13, 2018 at 4:33 PM MG via Mercedes  wrote:
> 
> 
> You may have to be a bit careful with getting the oil too hot. I 
> saw a video of old fry oil with water in it being heated to about 
> 250 Fahrenheit. Not much happened till the guy stirred the oil up 
> and the water that had dropped out got to the top. Then there was 
> a lot of boiling. Kind of like when you put fries into hot oil. 
> With the water emulsified it may just evaporate as it heats but 
> you never know.

Vented lids can be a good thing. 
BTW, how much weight can a Coleman camp stove hold?
A large turkey fry pot full of ATF?

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[MG via Mercedes]

You may have to be a bit careful with getting the oil too hot. I 
saw a video of old fry oil with water in it being heated to about 
250 Fahrenheit. Not much happened till the guy stirred the oil up 
and the water that had dropped out got to the top. Then there was 
a lot of boiling. Kind of like when you put fries into hot oil. 
With the water emulsified it may just evaporate as it heats but 
you never know.


Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

On January 12, 2018 at 6:08 PM Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
 wrote:
I've seen some people who claim getting the oil to 100C is enough to get the 
water to settle out. We're going to give it a try anyway.


I bet 120°C would turn the water to gas.

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Curt wrote:

> My small scale experiment was half an ounce of oil in a tuna can, as it got 
> hot it'd spit and
> pop, 

> The plan  right now is to use a turkey fryer and a metal 5
> gallon bucket.

> I just want to nudge 100C, maybe hold it there for a little while. 

> ..and I don't want to damage the oil by overheating it.

Information from 700R4 (GM) transmission experts
 + OIL TEMPERATURE MEASURED AT OIL PAN OR SUMP:
   + 150° F, 50° C
 + The minimum operating temperature. Note: It is possible
   in low ambient temperatures to overcool the
   transmission with auxiliary oil to air coolers. Oil to
   water coolers in standard factory radiators will
   normally not overcool a transmission.
   + 175-200° F, 80-95° C
 + Normal pan oil temperature operating range.
   + 275° F, 135° C
 + Maximum allowable oil pan temperature for short
   durations during long hill climbs.
   + 300° F, 150° C
 + Damage occurs to internal transmission parts, including
   warpage of metal parts, degradation of clutches, and
   melting of seals. Transmission oil oxidizes, (forming
   varnish-like substances causing further clutch slippage
   and compounding heat build up) and transmission oil
   life is extremely short.


I'd say 100 to 120 C should be just fine.  And if you have a
vented lid on the 5 gallon can, it should not matter if it spits.

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[OK Don via Mercedes]

I wonder if you can install a drain cock in the bottom of the pot - and
drain the water out from the bottom instead of trying to scoop dried oil
off the top? That's how we drain water from aircraft fuel tanks . . .
I didn't know that heating it would break the emulsion, but it does sound
like the best way to dry the oil if you can't replace it ($).

On Fri, Jan 12, 2018 at 9:46 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Okay, at this point I've got to stop and ask: Have none of you noticed
> that I'm dealing with an emulsion? The water is in the oil and by itself
> won't come out. At least five times I've mentioned this, the water WILL NOT
> SETTLE OUT OF THE ATF. I'm reasonably sure this is done on purpose.
>
> Again going back, this is the reason I intend to take the oil only to 100C
> and why I want to sneak up on 100C instead of getting there fast and
> overshooting. I don't want 5 gallons of oil/water emulsion to explode or
> even to pop...
>
> Anyway, I heat the oil which breaks the emulsion (again I've repeated this
> but I'm pretty sure nobody reads that part, you don't act like it if you
> do) then when the oil cools the water falls out, we scoop the good, dry oil
> off the top and send it back into the groomer to get pickup more water.
>
> -Curt
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Friday, January 12, 2018, 10:36:54 PM EST, Craig via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, 13 Jan 2018 03:22:20 + (UTC) Curt Raymond via Mercedes
>
>  wrote:
>
> > Boiling all the water out is a little like making maple syrup, its
> > going to take considerable time... -Curt
>
>
> In maple syrup, isn't the syrup heavier than water?
>
> In this case, the oil is lighter and will cover the water. If you get
> water above boiling, it will explode under the oil and cause a mess.
>
> I speak from experience: In college, I wanted to calibrate the
> temperature sensor used in my Alfa Romeo for oil temperature measurement.
> I put a beaker of engine oil on a laboratory hot plate and started
> taking resistance versus temperature measurements. At one point, I
> wanted the temperature to go down, so I took the temperature sensor
> out of the oil and dunked it in a glass of water to cool it. I then
> took it out of the water, shook it off, and put it back in the oil.
>
> A couple of minutes later, what little water I had not removed from
> thesensor settled on the bottom of the beaker and exploded, causing
> the beaker to jump up about 18", fall back down, and spread hot oil
> everywhere as it broke in lots of little pieces of glass.
>
>
> Craig
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>


-- 
OK Don

*“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and many of
our people need it sorely on these accounts.”* – Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Peter Frederick via Mercedes]

No, wet ATF will dissolve cellulose fiber disk packs and cause serious rust and 
corrosion.
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

Okay, at this point I've got to stop and ask: Have none of you noticed that I'm 
dealing with an emulsion? The water is in the oil and by itself won't come out. 
At least five times I've mentioned this, the water WILL NOT SETTLE OUT OF THE 
ATF. I'm reasonably sure this is done on purpose.

Again going back, this is the reason I intend to take the oil only to 100C and 
why I want to sneak up on 100C instead of getting there fast and overshooting. 
I don't want 5 gallons of oil/water emulsion to explode or even to pop...

Anyway, I heat the oil which breaks the emulsion (again I've repeated this but 
I'm pretty sure nobody reads that part, you don't act like it if you do) then 
when the oil cools the water falls out, we scoop the good, dry oil off the top 
and send it back into the groomer to get pickup more water.

-Curt






On Friday, January 12, 2018, 10:36:54 PM EST, Craig via Mercedes 
 wrote: 





On Sat, 13 Jan 2018 03:22:20 + (UTC) Curt Raymond via Mercedes

 wrote:

> Boiling all the water out is a little like making maple syrup, its
> going to take considerable time... -Curt 


In maple syrup, isn't the syrup heavier than water?

In this case, the oil is lighter and will cover the water. If you get
water above boiling, it will explode under the oil and cause a mess.

I speak from experience: In college, I wanted to calibrate the
temperature sensor used in my Alfa Romeo for oil temperature measurement.
I put a beaker of engine oil on a laboratory hot plate and started
taking resistance versus temperature measurements. At one point, I
wanted the temperature to go down, so I took the temperature sensor
out of the oil and dunked it in a glass of water to cool it. I then
took it out of the water, shook it off, and put it back in the oil.

A couple of minutes later, what little water I had not removed from
thesensor settled on the bottom of the beaker and exploded, causing
the beaker to jump up about 18", fall back down, and spread hot oil
everywhere as it broke in lots of little pieces of glass.


Craig

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Sat, 13 Jan 2018 03:22:20 + (UTC) Curt Raymond via Mercedes
 wrote:

> Boiling all the water out is a little like making maple syrup, its
> going to take considerable time... -Curt 

In maple syrup, isn't the syrup heavier than water?

In this case, the oil is lighter and will cover the water. If you get
water above boiling, it will explode under the oil and cause a mess.

I speak from experience: In college, I wanted to calibrate the
temperature sensor used in my Alfa Romeo for oil temperature measurement.
I put a beaker of engine oil on a laboratory hot plate and started
taking resistance versus temperature measurements. At one point, I
wanted the temperature to go down, so I took the temperature sensor
out of the oil and dunked it in a glass of water to cool it. I then
took it out of the water, shook it off, and put it back in the oil.

A couple of minutes later, what little water I had not removed from
thesensor settled on the bottom of the beaker and exploded, causing
the beaker to jump up about 18", fall back down, and spread hot oil
everywhere as it broke in lots of little pieces of glass.


Craig

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

120 degrees Celsius is clearly OK, because that's the temperature of the
water bath the typical MB runs the ATF through in the radiator
heat-exchanger.

Maybe look at the faces of some aftermarket analog auxiliary towing gauges,
figure out where the red zone is?

-- Jim
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

I'm thinking the smoke point is pretty high but I don't want to damage the oil 
or any of the additives. Again supposedly at 100C the emulsion breaks and the 
water will settle out which it won't do otherwise...
Boiling all the water out is a little like making maple syrup, its going to 
take considerable time...
-Curt
 

On Friday, January 12, 2018, 10:15:50 PM EST, Jim Cathey 
 wrote:  
 
 Turkey fryer is an excellent example of "gettin' the water out".  Keep the oil 
under 350 degrees Fahrenheit and the oil won't burn and impart a bad flavor to 
the turkey.  Perhaps ATF has a different smoke point?  :-)
-- Jim
  
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

Turkey fryer is an excellent example of "gettin' the water out".  Keep the
oil under 350 degrees Fahrenheit and the oil won't burn and impart a bad
flavor to the turkey.  Perhaps ATF has a different smoke point?  :-)

-- Jim
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

It doesn't, we've already tried...
 

On Friday, January 12, 2018, 9:37:54 PM EST, Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 
> On January 12, 2018 at 6:10 PM G Mann via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> You might get lucky if you pump down the system, into a plastic barrel, so
> you can see through the plastic [shop light on one side]. Let it "settle"
> for a few days, then let it freeze. The water will freeze, the oil
> won't pump off the oil. Oil is light, water is heavy, it will settle to
> bottom of barrel.

This might be worth a try. 
Put a half gallon of the worst crap you drained out in a milk carton and let it 
sit out in really cold weather, see what happens. 
If the water precipitates out as a solid, you're getting somewhere.

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

  
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

Kinda what I don't want to happen. My small scale experiment was half an ounce 
of oil in a tuna can, as it got hot it'd spit and pop, that was 220F (my IR 
thermometer was in F) and was mostly a consequence of not being able to turn 
down the camp stove enough for the job, this was using my smallest camp stove 
too.
The plan right now is to use a turkey fryer and a metal 5 gallon bucket. I read 
a post on a forum where a guy used this exact technique and could de-water in 
about 5 minutes.Actually for the first test I'd like to use a Coleman stove so 
we can sneak up on 100C better. I just want to nudge 100C, maybe hold it there 
for a little while. Then cool it down and let the water fall out, skim the good 
oil off the top. 
Boiling the water out scares me a little, I don't want bubbles of steam in 5 
gallons of oil and I don't want to damage the oil by overheating it. Everything 
I've read suggests ATF can handle 100C easily. I haven't seen a max temp yet 
but I know I don't want to get there.
-Curt
 

On Friday, January 12, 2018, 9:34:14 PM EST, Mitch Haley 
 wrote:  
 
 
> On January 12, 2018 at 6:08 PM Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> I've seen some people who claim getting the oil to 100C is enough to get the 
> water to settle out. We're going to give it a try anyway.

I bet 120°C would turn the water to gas.  
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

> On January 12, 2018 at 6:10 PM G Mann via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> You might get lucky if you pump down the system, into a plastic barrel, so
> you can see through the plastic [shop light on one side]. Let it "settle"
> for a few days, then let it freeze. The water will freeze, the oil
> won't pump off the oil. Oil is light, water is heavy, it will settle to
> bottom of barrel.

This might be worth a try. 
Put a half gallon of the worst crap you drained out in a milk carton and let it 
sit out in really cold weather, see what happens. 
If the water precipitates out as a solid, you're getting somewhere.

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

> On January 12, 2018 at 6:08 PM Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> I've seen some people who claim getting the oil to 100C is enough to get the 
> water to settle out. We're going to give it a try anyway.

I bet 120°C would turn the water to gas.

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

Oil isn't compressable either, what does that have to do with it?
Go back and read the previous posts ATF won't come out of emulsion on it's own. 
We left it a week with no change.The biggest problem we're having is that the 
water freezes somewhere in the single digits, apparently the ATF does a good 
job lowering it's freezing point...

Curt

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Fri, Jan 12, 2018 at 6:11 PM, G Mann via Mercedes 
wrote:   Not really, water in not compressible, so it will blow seals and bend
shafts in pump. Also, it will freeze and stop up the pickup in bottom of
reservoir.

You might get lucky if you pump down the system, into a plastic barrel, so
you can see through the plastic [shop light on one side]. Let it "settle"
for a few days, then let it freeze. The water will freeze, the oil
won't pump off the oil. Oil is light, water is heavy, it will settle to
bottom of barrel.

On Fri, Jan 12, 2018 at 4:02 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> On 12/01/2018 4:59 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:
>
>> ATF has a very high detergent activity, and water will not separate well,
>> if at all.
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>
> So, is it safe for them to continue using it without changing the fluid?
>
> RB
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

  
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[G Mann via Mercedes]

Not really, water in not compressible, so it will blow seals and bend
shafts in pump. Also, it will freeze and stop up the pickup in bottom of
reservoir.

You might get lucky if you pump down the system, into a plastic barrel, so
you can see through the plastic [shop light on one side]. Let it "settle"
for a few days, then let it freeze. The water will freeze, the oil
won't pump off the oil. Oil is light, water is heavy, it will settle to
bottom of barrel.

On Fri, Jan 12, 2018 at 4:02 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> On 12/01/2018 4:59 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:
>
>> ATF has a very high detergent activity, and water will not separate well,
>> if at all.
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>
> So, is it safe for them to continue using it without changing the fluid?
>
> RB
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

The term is emulsion and if you go back to my original post I complained about 
it. Apparently heat breaks the emulsion, I've seen some people who claim 
getting the oil to 100C is enough to get the water to settle out. We're going 
to give it a try anyway.

Curt

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Fri, Jan 12, 2018 at 6:02 PM, Randy Bennell via 
Mercedes wrote:   On 12/01/2018 4:59 PM, Peter Frederick 
via Mercedes wrote:
> ATF has a very high detergent activity, and water will not separate well, if 
> at all.
>
>
>
> ___

So, is it safe for them to continue using it without changing the fluid?

RB

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

  
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[G Mann via Mercedes]

Centrifuge will do it. if the oil/water is not emulsified it will do it
better. Might have to let it set and settle for a while. Water is heavy,
oil is light, so it will separate with gravity of centrifuge and managed
from the machine.

Someone near you will have one that could process the 55 gallons of oil for
you. Lots of biodiesel folks used them.

On Fri, Jan 12, 2018 at 3:59 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> ATF has a very high detergent activity, and water will not separate well,
> if at all.
>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Randy Bennell via Mercedes]

On 12/01/2018 4:59 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:

ATF has a very high detergent activity, and water will not separate well, if at 
all.



___


So, is it safe for them to continue using it without changing the fluid?

RB

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Peter Frederick via Mercedes]

ATF has a very high detergent activity, and water will not separate well, if at 
all.



___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Randy Bennell via Mercedes]

I wonder if you drain off a gallon or more and let it sit for a while, 
if the oil and the water will separate? If it was gasoline, the water 
would go to the bottom. In this case, I wonder if the oil would be on 
the bottom and the water on the top so you could siphon it off.


However, I think someone also suggested earlier that ATF bonds with the 
water to keep it in suspension so maybe that would not work?


RB

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

I have one of those too, I'd thought of it and then forgotten. Thanks for the 
reminder.
-Curt
 

On Friday, January 12, 2018, 4:12:35 PM EST, fmiser via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 > Curt wrote:

> Anybody got a good way to get water out of ATF?

I have a funnel with a filter that lets gasoline through, but not
water.  I don't know if it will work with transmission fluid.  I
don't know if I'll have time to try that today...

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

  
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Curt wrote:

> Anybody got a good way to get water out of ATF?

I have a funnel with a filter that lets gasoline through, but not
water.  I don't know if it will work with transmission fluid.  I
don't know if I'll have time to try that today...

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

We've got a member who manages an autoparts store and gets us a rate.
-Curt
 

On Friday, January 12, 2018, 3:30:57 PM EST, Craig via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 On Fri, 12 Jan 2018 19:46:59 + (UTC) Curt Raymond via Mercedes
 wrote:

> What we really need is 100 gallons of ATF, route the output of the
> return to an empty container and keep pumping new clean fluid in until
> all the contaminated fluid runs out, that'd be about 4x my budget
> though... -Curt 

You can get ATF for $4.00/gallon? The best I have seen is $4.40/gallon:

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/super-s-supertrac-303-tractor-hydraulic-fluid-5-gal


Craig

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

  
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Fri, 12 Jan 2018 19:46:59 + (UTC) Curt Raymond via Mercedes
 wrote:

> What we really need is 100 gallons of ATF, route the output of the
> return to an empty container and keep pumping new clean fluid in until
> all the contaminated fluid runs out, that'd be about 4x my budget
> though... -Curt 

You can get ATF for $4.00/gallon? The best I have seen is $4.40/gallon:

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/super-s-supertrac-303-tractor-hydraulic-fluid-5-gal


Craig

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

ATF has detergents to bind the water.  THat is why it is opaque to 
translucent, not clear.



Dan--- via Mercedes 
January 12, 2018 at 1:36 PM
I’m wondering if there is such thing as a water separator, much like 
there are for diesel fuel systems. If so, seems like it would be an 
ideal application for one...




___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

My research suggests that there are all sorts of water removing tools. They 
fall into 4 basic categories:
1. Heaters2. Centrufugal3. Vacuum4. Air displacement
All of them require big equipment. You need to remember the snowmobile club 
runs on basically zero budget. I can budget maybe $100 for this but not much 
more unless you'd like to make a donation. :)
My experiment from yesterday looks to be more successful than I knew initially, 
it looks like the heat drove much of the water out of emulsion so although I 
didn't boil all of the water out its separated into a different level under the 
oil. So I'm thinking thats the way to go. Sunday I've got a new light bar to 
put on the ASV anyway so I'll take a Coleman stove with me and heat up 5 
gallons of oil. Let it sit overnight, suction the dry oil off the top and 
replace whats in the machine now with the dry oil. Lather, rinse, repeat a 
couple times over the next week or so and maybe we'll have something.

What we really need is 100 gallons of ATF, route the output of the return to an 
empty container and keep pumping new clean fluid in until all the contaminated 
fluid runs out, that'd be about 4x my budget though...
-Curt
 

On Friday, January 12, 2018, 2:36:35 PM EST, Dan--- via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 I’m wondering if there is such thing as a water separator, much like there are 
for diesel fuel systems.  If so, seems like it would be an ideal application 
for one...

-D

> On Jan 12, 2018, at 2:33 PM, clay monroe via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> I assume you do not have access or desire to acquaint yourself with a shop 
> that does an ATF flush.  Maybe those things do bad for engine, but it would 
> remove all the fluid and put good stuff back in, in one fell swoop
> 
> clay 
> 
> 1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
> 1986 SDL - Polei
> 1982 300 SD - Allen
> 
> retired models-
> 2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately & well tailored crap
> 1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
> 1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
> 1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
> POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jan 12, 2018, at 8:56 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Yup, did that. Looks like the best bet is to heat it and see if we can 
>> recover some of the fluid. With luck after a few changes we can reduce the 
>> amount of water in there for now, then in the summer we'll go through the 
>> process of replacing all of it...
>> 
>> 
>> -Curt 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> 


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

  
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Dan--- via Mercedes]

I’m wondering if there is such thing as a water separator, much like there are 
for diesel fuel systems.  If so, seems like it would be an ideal application 
for one...

-D

> On Jan 12, 2018, at 2:33 PM, clay monroe via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> I assume you do not have access or desire to acquaint yourself with a shop 
> that does an ATF flush.  Maybe those things do bad for engine, but it would 
> remove all the fluid and put good stuff back in, in one fell swoop
> 
> clay 
> 
> 1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
> 1986 SDL - Polei
> 1982 300 SD - Allen
> 
> retired models-
> 2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately & well tailored crap
> 1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
> 1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
> 1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
> POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jan 12, 2018, at 8:56 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Yup, did that. Looks like the best bet is to heat it and see if we can 
>> recover some of the fluid. With luck after a few changes we can reduce the 
>> amount of water in there for now, then in the summer we'll go through the 
>> process of replacing all of it...
>> 
>> 
>> -Curt 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> 


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[clay monroe via Mercedes]

I assume you do not have access or desire to acquaint yourself with a shop that 
does an ATF flush.  Maybe those things do bad for engine, but it would remove 
all the fluid and put good stuff back in, in one fell swoop

clay 

1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1986 SDL - Polei
1982 300 SD - Allen

retired models-
2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately & well tailored crap
1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers







> On Jan 12, 2018, at 8:56 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, did that. Looks like the best bet is to heat it and see if we can 
> recover some of the fluid. With luck after a few changes we can reduce the 
> amount of water in there for now, then in the summer we'll go through the 
> process of replacing all of it...
> 
> 
> -Curt 

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

Yup, did that. Looks like the best bet is to heat it and see if we can recover 
some of the fluid. With luck after a few changes we can reduce the amount of 
water in there for now, then in the summer we'll go through the process of 
replacing all of it...


-Curt






On Friday, January 12, 2018, 11:34:29 AM EST, Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
 wrote: 





On 11/01/2018 8:47 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:

> Anybody ever get water in ATF before? The Pisten Bully main hydraulics has 
> apparently got a substantial amount of water in it. The last two times we 
> went out it required 1/2 hour of run time before they would work at all. This 
> includes all the blade functions and the drag, so its a major problem.
> The fluid in the tank looks like Pepto Bismal. Ben drained out 5 gallons and 
> replaced twice, its less pink now but still pretty pink. Thats $40 down the 
> drain...
> I took some ATF in a glass bottle, added just a tiny amount of water, shook 
> and produced the same result. Left for 2 days it separates not at all.Tonight 
> I put the mixture into a clean tuna can and put it over a camp stove (Optimus 
> 8r, I wanted to use something small) to see if I could boil the water out. In 
> the end I *think* its possible but its going to be like making maple syrup. 
> My experiment took longer than you'd think considering there was maybe 1oz of 
> fluid and it popped and spit. That'd probably be mitigated on a larger volume 
> but you'd still need to be pretty careful.
> The idea is we could clean the fluid and run it back through the system until 
> we pick up all the water. Alternately we need to completely drain the system 
> which is a BIG job, there are 5 hydraulic cylinders on the blade and 2 more 
> on the drag. The rear cylinder on the drag is probably 25 feet away from the 
> hydraulic pump, oh and they're all double acting cylinders...
> Anybody got a good way to get water out of ATF?
> -Curt

> ___

just do a Google search for "how to remove water from hydraulic oil"

Lots of information.

RB

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Randy Bennell via Mercedes]

On 11/01/2018 8:47 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:

Anybody ever get water in ATF before? The Pisten Bully main hydraulics has 
apparently got a substantial amount of water in it. The last two times we went 
out it required 1/2 hour of run time before they would work at all. This 
includes all the blade functions and the drag, so its a major problem.
The fluid in the tank looks like Pepto Bismal. Ben drained out 5 gallons and 
replaced twice, its less pink now but still pretty pink. Thats $40 down the 
drain...
I took some ATF in a glass bottle, added just a tiny amount of water, shook and 
produced the same result. Left for 2 days it separates not at all.Tonight I put 
the mixture into a clean tuna can and put it over a camp stove (Optimus 8r, I 
wanted to use something small) to see if I could boil the water out. In the end 
I *think* its possible but its going to be like making maple syrup. My 
experiment took longer than you'd think considering there was maybe 1oz of 
fluid and it popped and spit. That'd probably be mitigated on a larger volume 
but you'd still need to be pretty careful.
The idea is we could clean the fluid and run it back through the system until 
we pick up all the water. Alternately we need to completely drain the system 
which is a BIG job, there are 5 hydraulic cylinders on the blade and 2 more on 
the drag. The rear cylinder on the drag is probably 25 feet away from the 
hydraulic pump, oh and they're all double acting cylinders...
Anybody got a good way to get water out of ATF?
-Curt
___


just do a Google search for "how to remove water from hydraulic oil"

Lots of information.

RB

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

> On January 11, 2018 at 9:47 PM Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> Anybody got a good way to get water out of ATF?

Heat to 250°F?

Mitch.

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

Change fluid this winter.  Next summer, determine the source of the 
water and fix it. change all fluid then.



Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
January 11, 2018 at 8:47 PM
Anybody ever get water in ATF before? The Pisten Bully main hydraulics 
has apparently got a substantial amount of water in it. The last two 
times we went out it required 1/2 hour of run time before they would 
work at all. This includes all the blade functions and the drag, so 
its a major problem.
The fluid in the tank looks like Pepto Bismal. Ben drained out 5 
gallons and replaced twice, its less pink now but still pretty pink. 
Thats $40 down the drain...
I took some ATF in a glass bottle, added just a tiny amount of water, 
shook and produced the same result. Left for 2 days it separates not 
at all.Tonight I put the mixture into a clean tuna can and put it over 
a camp stove (Optimus 8r, I wanted to use something small) to see if I 
could boil the water out. In the end I *think* its possible but its 
going to be like making maple syrup. My experiment took longer than 
you'd think considering there was maybe 1oz of fluid and it popped and 
spit. That'd probably be mitigated on a larger volume but you'd still 
need to be pretty careful.
The idea is we could clean the fluid and run it back through the 
system until we pick up all the water. Alternately we need to 
completely drain the system which is a BIG job, there are 5 hydraulic 
cylinders on the blade and 2 more on the drag. The rear cylinder on 
the drag is probably 25 feet away from the hydraulic pump, oh and 
they're all double acting cylinders...

Anybody got a good way to get water out of ATF?
-Curt
___


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

I don't think so. The machine has 3 hydraulic systems, main drive, tiller 
control, which we don't use and then everything else which is the one we're 
having trouble with. If one was going to be cooled I'd expect it to be main 
drive... I'll look at it next time I'm out there.

-Curt


On Thursday, January 11, 2018, 9:56:49 PM EST, OK Don via Mercedes 
 wrote: 





Does it have a cooling loop running through the radiator? If so, I'd guess
a leak in one of the lines.

On Thu, Jan 11, 2018 at 8:47 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Anybody ever get water in ATF before? The Pisten Bully main hydraulics has
> apparently got a substantial amount of water in it. The last two times we
> went out it required 1/2 hour of run time before they would work at all.
> This includes all the blade functions and the drag, so its a major problem.
> The fluid in the tank looks like Pepto Bismal. Ben drained out 5 gallons
> and replaced twice, its less pink now but still pretty pink. Thats $40 down
> the drain...
> I took some ATF in a glass bottle, added just a tiny amount of water,
> shook and produced the same result. Left for 2 days it separates not at
> all.Tonight I put the mixture into a clean tuna can and put it over a camp
> stove (Optimus 8r, I wanted to use something small) to see if I could boil
> the water out. In the end I *think* its possible but its going to be like
> making maple syrup. My experiment took longer than you'd think considering
> there was maybe 1oz of fluid and it popped and spit. That'd probably be
> mitigated on a larger volume but you'd still need to be pretty careful.
> The idea is we could clean the fluid and run it back through the system
> until we pick up all the water. Alternately we need to completely drain the
> system which is a BIG job, there are 5 hydraulic cylinders on the blade and
> 2 more on the drag. The rear cylinder on the drag is probably 25 feet away
> from the hydraulic pump, oh and they're all double acting cylinders...
> Anybody got a good way to get water out of ATF?
> -Curt

> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>


-- 
OK Don

*“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and many of
our people need it sorely on these accounts.”* – Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[Dwight Giles via Mercedes]

Curt- SWAG answer. (scientific wild assed guess) how,about some of the
alcohol based  drivers? If you could drain from the bottom.

Dwight Giles Jr.
Wickford RI

On Jan 11, 2018 9:48 PM, "Curt Raymond via Mercedes" 
wrote:

> Anybody ever get water in ATF before? The Pisten Bully main hydraulics has
> apparently got a substantial amount of water in it. The last two times we
> went out it required 1/2 hour of run time before they would work at all.
> This includes all the blade functions and the drag, so its a major problem.
> The fluid in the tank looks like Pepto Bismal. Ben drained out 5 gallons
> and replaced twice, its less pink now but still pretty pink. Thats $40 down
> the drain...
> I took some ATF in a glass bottle, added just a tiny amount of water,
> shook and produced the same result. Left for 2 days it separates not at
> all.Tonight I put the mixture into a clean tuna can and put it over a camp
> stove (Optimus 8r, I wanted to use something small) to see if I could boil
> the water out. In the end I *think* its possible but its going to be like
> making maple syrup. My experiment took longer than you'd think considering
> there was maybe 1oz of fluid and it popped and spit. That'd probably be
> mitigated on a larger volume but you'd still need to be pretty careful.
> The idea is we could clean the fluid and run it back through the system
> until we pick up all the water. Alternately we need to completely drain the
> system which is a BIG job, there are 5 hydraulic cylinders on the blade and
> 2 more on the drag. The rear cylinder on the drag is probably 25 feet away
> from the hydraulic pump, oh and they're all double acting cylinders...
> Anybody got a good way to get water out of ATF?
> -Curt
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[OK Don via Mercedes]

Does it have a cooling loop running through the radiator? If so, I'd guess
a leak in one of the lines.

On Thu, Jan 11, 2018 at 8:47 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Anybody ever get water in ATF before? The Pisten Bully main hydraulics has
> apparently got a substantial amount of water in it. The last two times we
> went out it required 1/2 hour of run time before they would work at all.
> This includes all the blade functions and the drag, so its a major problem.
> The fluid in the tank looks like Pepto Bismal. Ben drained out 5 gallons
> and replaced twice, its less pink now but still pretty pink. Thats $40 down
> the drain...
> I took some ATF in a glass bottle, added just a tiny amount of water,
> shook and produced the same result. Left for 2 days it separates not at
> all.Tonight I put the mixture into a clean tuna can and put it over a camp
> stove (Optimus 8r, I wanted to use something small) to see if I could boil
> the water out. In the end I *think* its possible but its going to be like
> making maple syrup. My experiment took longer than you'd think considering
> there was maybe 1oz of fluid and it popped and spit. That'd probably be
> mitigated on a larger volume but you'd still need to be pretty careful.
> The idea is we could clean the fluid and run it back through the system
> until we pick up all the water. Alternately we need to completely drain the
> system which is a BIG job, there are 5 hydraulic cylinders on the blade and
> 2 more on the drag. The rear cylinder on the drag is probably 25 feet away
> from the hydraulic pump, oh and they're all double acting cylinders...
> Anybody got a good way to get water out of ATF?
> -Curt
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>


-- 
OK Don

*“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and many of
our people need it sorely on these accounts.”* – Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water pumps

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

I've used Laso.  So far, so good.
Genu wine is good too.


Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
October 13, 2016 at 8:23 PM



___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water leak fixed

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

Did you see this link?

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0Bxk8a928B3RxZW9hTGZqSkJiRGM


-
Max
Charleston SC

On Thu, Jun 9, 2016 at 10:41 AM, Joel Cairo via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I couldn't see any
>
> --JC
>
>
> On 6/8/16 10:35 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:
>
>> Just out of curiosity, could you only see the pix in that folder, or did
>> your also see the pix of me dressed in the banana suit?
>>
>
> --
> --BB
>
> ___
>
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water leak fixed

[Joel Cairo via Mercedes]

I couldn't see any

--JC


On 6/8/16 10:35 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Just out of curiosity, could you only see the pix in that folder, or did your 
also see the pix of me dressed in the banana suit?


--
--BB

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water leak fixed

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

Ha!  No banana suit pix for you!
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On June 8, 2016 10:45:48 PM EDT, Curley McLain via Mercedes 
 wrote:
>Unfortunately, I could only see the 3  called Okie Benz pics.  Show us
>more!
>
>> Max Dillon via Mercedes 
>> June 8, 2016 at 9:35 PMvia Postbox 
>>
>
>> Just out of curiosity, could you only see the pix in that folder, or 
>> did your also see the pix of me dressed in the banana suit?
>> Curley McLain 
>> June 8, 2016 at 9:33 PMvia Postbox 
>>
>
>> Waytago!
>>
>>
>> Max Dillon via Mercedes 
>> June 8, 2016 at 9:20 PMvia Postbox 
>>
>
>> Tonight I finally pulled back the fender liner, found what I think is
>
>> the water point that allowed rain to get inside the passenger 
>> compartment, and patched it.
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0Bxk8a928B3RxZW9hTGZqSkJiRGM
>>
>>
>
>___
>http://www.okiebenz.com
>
>To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water leak fixed

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

Unfortunately, I could only see the 3  called Okie Benz pics.  Show us more!


Max Dillon via Mercedes 
June 8, 2016 at 9:35 PMvia Postbox 

Just out of curiosity, could you only see the pix in that folder, or 
did your also see the pix of me dressed in the banana suit?

Curley McLain 
June 8, 2016 at 9:33 PMvia Postbox 


Waytago!


Max Dillon via Mercedes 
June 8, 2016 at 9:20 PMvia Postbox 

Tonight I finally pulled back the fender liner, found what I think is 
the water point that allowed rain to get inside the passenger 
compartment, and patched it.


https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0Bxk8a928B3RxZW9hTGZqSkJiRGM




___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water leak fixed

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

Just out of curiosity, could you only see the pix in that folder, or did your 
also see the pix of me dressed in the banana suit?
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On June 8, 2016 10:33:02 PM EDT, Curley McLain via Mercedes 
 wrote:
>Waytago!
>
>> Max Dillon via Mercedes 
>> June 8, 2016 at 9:20 PMvia Postbox 
>>
>
>> Tonight I finally pulled back the fender liner, found what I think is
>
>> the water point that allowed rain to get inside the passenger 
>> compartment, and patched it.
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0Bxk8a928B3RxZW9hTGZqSkJiRGM
>>
>>
>
>___
>http://www.okiebenz.com
>
>To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water leak fixed

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

Waytago!


Max Dillon via Mercedes 
June 8, 2016 at 9:20 PMvia Postbox 

Tonight I finally pulled back the fender liner, found what I think is 
the water point that allowed rain to get inside the passenger 
compartment, and patched it.


https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0Bxk8a928B3RxZW9hTGZqSkJiRGM




___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Pump R&R 602-962 engine

[Larry T]

I'll have to get some.   As it is now I'll probably replace the pump 
Thurs or Fri.


Thanks for the suggestion-

Sincerely,
Larry

On 3/10/2014 9:00 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:

Larry T wrote:
Yeah, good point.   As far as being hard to remove-- I always use the 
non-hardening Permatex which is much easier to remove than the rock 
hard Permatex!  That stuff is terrible!


Berryman and probably Herr Doktor would probably say to use Hylomar.

Mitch.

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Pump R&R 602-962 engine

[Scott Ritchey]

+1

> -Original Message-
> From: Mitch Haley
> Sent: Monday, March 10, 2014 9:01 PM
> 
> > ...
> 
> Berryman and probably Herr Doktor would probably say to use Hylomar.
> 
> Mitch.
> 
> ___



___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Pump R&R 602-962 engine

[OK Don]

I use Hylomar for metal-to-metal seals and Permatex for gasket sealed
joints. Why? Because I always have :-)


On Mon, Mar 10, 2014 at 8:51 PM, Craig  wrote:

> On Mon, 10 Mar 2014 20:00:55 -0500 Mitch Haley  wrote:
>
>
> > Berryman and probably Herr Doktor would probably say to use Hylomar.
>
> I bought a tube of Hylomar to use during one repair on our E320. The only
> repair that would have required it was the water pump replacement.
>
> On the M104, the water pump is on the left (U.S. driver's) side of the
> block, not on the front like an OM61x.
>
>
-- 
OK Don

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Pump R&R 602-962 engine

[Craig]

On Mon, 10 Mar 2014 20:00:55 -0500 Mitch Haley  wrote:

> Larry T wrote:
> > Yeah, good point.   As far as being hard to remove-- I always use the 
> > non-hardening Permatex which is much easier to remove than the rock
> > hard Permatex!  That stuff is terrible!
> 
> Berryman and probably Herr Doktor would probably say to use Hylomar.

I bought a tube of Hylomar to use during one repair on our E320. The only
repair that would have required it was the water pump replacement.

On the M104, the water pump is on the left (U.S. driver's) side of the
block, not on the front like an OM61x.


Craig

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Pump R&R 602-962 engine

[Mitch Haley]

Larry T wrote:
Yeah, good point.   As far as being hard to remove-- I always use the 
non-hardening Permatex which is much easier to remove than the rock hard 
Permatex!  That stuff is terrible!


Berryman and probably Herr Doktor would probably say to use Hylomar.

Mitch.

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Pump R&R 602-962 engine

[Larry T]

Yeah, good point.   As far as being hard to remove-- I always use the 
non-hardening Permatex which is much easier to remove than the rock hard 
Permatex!  That stuff is terrible!


Thanks-

Sincerely,
Larry

On 3/9/2014 9:16 PM, OK Don wrote:

I always use a sealant on old engines, figuring that there's a chance that
the front case is warped a bit. It only hurts when you go to replace the
pump again - hopefully that will be someone else's problem by then . . .


On Sun, Mar 9, 2014 at 3:48 PM, Max Dillon wrote:


Regarding the gasket, follow the factory service manual.  Usually they
don't require sealant.





___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Pump R&R 602-962 engine

[OK Don]

I always use a sealant on old engines, figuring that there's a chance that
the front case is warped a bit. It only hurts when you go to replace the
pump again - hopefully that will be someone else's problem by then . . .


On Sun, Mar 9, 2014 at 3:48 PM, Max Dillon wrote:

> Regarding the gasket, follow the factory service manual.  Usually they
> don't require sealant.
>
>

-- 
OK Don

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Pump R&R 602-962 engine

[Max Dillon]

Regarding the gasket, follow the factory service manual.  Usually they don't 
require sealant.

1 gallon of coolant is sufficient, make up the rest with tap water.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Pump R&R 602-962 engine

[Larry T]

Thanks - it's probably not a big deal to pull the radiator and once 
that's out the alt and WP should be easy..


What about gasket sealant?   I suspect it's never been apart & I don't 
think the factory used sealant...


Also, about how much new coolant should I have on hand?  1 gal? 2 G?

Thanks -

Sincerely,
Larry

On 3/9/2014 3:05 PM, clay wrote:

You can probably slither around to get access, but taking the stuff out will 
allow you much better reach and ability to wrench.

clay


On Mar 9, 2014, at 10:34 AM, Larry T wrote:


Howdy -
I need to replace my water pump as it's leaking and starting to squeak.  i 
read the WSM Procedure but ir seems they may be doing more than is needed - if 
someone who has done this on a 91 300D 602-962 engine, I'd really like to hear 
from you.

The WSM called for removing the radiator, alternator and a few other things 
i don't normally remove.  Also, the WSM  didn't say anything about putting 
permatex, etc on the gasket - would you recommend it?

   I know the serpentine belt tensioner needs to be released so the water pump 
bolts can be accessed but am not aware of a reason to pull the alternator.  but 
if it needs to come off I'll take it off - same with the radiator although I 
don't mind leaving  it installed and working over the radiator.

Please let me know what other "gotch ya's" are waiting for me

TIA,

--
Sincerely,
Larry


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Pump R&R 602-962 engine

[Max Dillon]

Second that.  Seems like too much effort, but will give you all the room you 
need.

Caveat: haven't done a water pump on a OM60x, but I have on a OM617.  Tried to 
get by leaving the radiator in place, ended up removing it.

On March 9, 2014 3:05:27 PM EDT, clay  wrote:
>You can probably slither around to get access, but taking the stuff out
>will allow you much better reach and ability to wrench.  
>

-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Pump R&R 602-962 engine

[clay]

You can probably slither around to get access, but taking the stuff out will 
allow you much better reach and ability to wrench.  

clay


On Mar 9, 2014, at 10:34 AM, Larry T wrote:

> Howdy -
>I need to replace my water pump as it's leaking and starting to squeak.  i 
> read the WSM Procedure but ir seems they may be doing more than is needed - 
> if someone who has done this on a 91 300D 602-962 engine, I'd really like to 
> hear from you.
> 
>The WSM called for removing the radiator, alternator and a few other 
> things i don't normally remove.  Also, the WSM  didn't say anything about 
> putting permatex, etc on the gasket - would you recommend it?
> 
>   I know the serpentine belt tensioner needs to be released so the water pump 
> bolts can be accessed but am not aware of a reason to pull the alternator.  
> but if it needs to come off I'll take it off - same with the radiator 
> although I don't mind leaving  it installed and working over the radiator.
> 
>Please let me know what other "gotch ya's" are waiting for me
> 
> TIA,
> 
> -- 
> Sincerely,
> Larry
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Heating

[G Mann]

Living in Arizona, where the sun shines 360 days of the year, I've played
with solar hot water systems quite a lot. I've also learned several things.

The lead and lag time to make hot water, then keep water hot, vs the use of
hot water by human house occupants seldom match.

For example. People want to rise , bathe, go to work.. The sun comes up a
scant few minutes [heating minutes] before the demand for hot water is
placed.. bad mix.

If you use solar hot water panels, you need to be able to both store and
circulate the water.  Best location for the panels is on the roof, to get
best heating exposure .. which happens to be the worst for convective
circulation.. oops. Also.. long , uninsulated runs of hot water pipe from
the panels to storage tank.. and insulation of the tank are critical to
retain the heat rise of the water, then preserve the tank of hot water
until you the human, call for it.. Again, a timing issue.

Then comes the calculation of how much hot water do you use in the
household, at what temperature? Again, requires planning.

The last system I built for an "off the grid" home used 3 heating panels on
the roof, with 200 gallons of very insulated tanks to hold the hot water
[space requirement there, plan ahead] AND 4 solar panels that ran a SurFlow
12 volt pump for continuous circulation. When the sun came up.. solar
panels made 12 volts, pump came on, started circulation of water through
the hot water solar panels from the holding tanks.  Check valve in the
holding tank supply line kept the hot water loop a "closed system" until
hot water was called for, then check valve [spring loaded ball type check
valve] allowed inflow of un-heated supply water to replace that which was
used.. it then circulated through the heating panels to be heated.

I found it was necessary to meter the flow rate of the transfer SurFlow
pump so the water "stayed in the heating panels " long enough to be
heated... when I found the sweet spot of transfer, temp rise of the water
vastly improved..

Oh.. don't forget. at night, you need to close off the roof panels. They
radiate heat OUT .  The night cooled water in the panels falls.. the hot
water in the tanks rises , and cools while you sleep.. you wake up with 200
gallons of cold water.. well.. tepid at best...oops..  Another "attention
item" to attend to .. again.. every day..

Also.. your mileage may vary.. if you live in freezing climate, your roof
panels will freeze... ouch.. drain them .

HTH.. [Hope This Helps]

Grant...


On Wed, Jan 22, 2014 at 3:41 PM, Craig  wrote:

> On Wed, 22 Jan 2014 11:32:56 -0600 Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > I have hat thoughts of putting an old range boiler tank in the attic
> > (horizontally) at the lake cottage and then feeding from it to the
> > water heater as a preheater.   Or, just using a pipe strung under the
> > rafters for a gravity fed loop.  It gets rather toasty up there in
> > the summer.
>
> For a gravity-fed loop, the heat source has to be at the bottom.
>
> When we lived in Colorado Springs, we had a tank-type hot water heater in
> the basement underneath the kitchen. An insulated copper pipe went from
> the heater's outlet to the kitchen faucet and then a second copper pipe
> went from the faucet down to the center leg of a tee that extended the
> drain valve out from the tank.
>
> The cooler, heavier water in the uninsulated pipe caused a circulation
> that always kept the water at the kitchen faucet hot, allowing immediate
> hot water when the faucet was turned on.
>
> I thought it was a very clever idea.
>
>
>
> > But the propane use is normally under one tank per year.  If we don't
> > use the tank, we have to pay for a full tank anyway.
>
> What in the world?! You pay for propane even when you don't use it?!
>
>
> Craig
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Heating

[Dieselhead]

How much propane are we talking about total?

We use 20# cans at camp because they're easy to swap out. We only 
use maybe 40# on a really heavy year and most of that is if I do a 
lot of baking. Once we build our wood fired outdoor oven we'll cut 
way down on propane use.


Our price per gallon is of course quite a lot more but the 
convenience is worth it.


-Curt


Sometimes 20 lb most years 60 to 80.  one year, I think we used maybe 
150.  Had a lot of people there that year.  If it is only 2 people, 
one week, it is around 20lb.


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Heating

[OK Don]

We own our 500 gal. tank, and only pay for the propane they pump into it,
but at well over $2/gal., it's expensive energy. We only use it for a small
heater in the guest house (on when the low temp is forecast to be below
25F) and the gas grill now :-)


On Wed, Jan 22, 2014 at 4:32 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Dieselhead wrote:
>>
>>> But the propane use is normally under one tank per year.  If we don't
>>> use the tank, we have to pay for a full tank anyway.
>>>
>>
>> Sounds like time to start shopping for a tank of your own.
>> I like my providers' policy. If I don't buy 500 gallons between July 1
>> and June 30, they bill me $30 for a year's rent on the tank.
>>
>> Mitch.
>>
>
> If we don't buy a 100 lb tank per year, they charge us $100 or more. If I
> was there whenever it was used, I'd do something.  We use about a tank a
> year, and other people are often there.  It is simpler just to put up with
> it.
>
>

-- 
OK Don
"They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Benjamin Franklin 1775
"in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes."
- Benjamin Franklin 1789
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Heating

[Scott Ritchey]

I have a 500 gal underground tank for LP, which only gets filled to 80%).  I
have experienced substantial savings (like from $3.80 a gal to $2.30 a gal)
by calling the local LP company while I still have a couple hundred gallons
and asking about a deal on price.  If they make me a good deal on a fill-up
that's great.  If not, I say no thanks and call back a few weeks later.

I suspect the cost of sending the delivery truck is such that they will cut
a deal to make fewer, larger (or off-season) deliveries.

Scott

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Curt
Raymond
Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2014 8:27 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Water Heating

How much propane are we talking about total?

We use 20# cans at camp because they're easy to swap out. We only use maybe
40# on a really heavy year and most of that is if I do a lot of baking. Once
we build our wood fired outdoor oven we'll cut way down on propane use.

Our price per gallon is of course quite a lot more but the convenience is
worth it.

-Curt




___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Heating [was: Re: Coleman collectors WAS: low cost 3D metal printer]

[OK Don]

Our geothermal heat pump circulates the hat water heater water through a
heat exchanger in the summer when there's excess heat collected rather than
pumping it all back into the ground. It doesn't do this in the winter, so
it's a half-time advantage. Over all, our total energy costs (electric plus
propane) dropped 55% for the first year after the geothermal unit was
installed. It will still take 9 years to break even, but we're happy anyway.


On Wed, Jan 22, 2014 at 10:00 AM, Curt Raymond  wrote:

> I remember reading that the payoff on photovoltaic solar was dubious at
> best and in the 30 year time frame while for solar hot water it was more
> like 7-10 years making solar hot water a really good investment. They're
> showing up all over the place near us lately.
>
> We have tankless hydronic heat with an oil burner which also provides our
> hot water which is good, no shortage of hot water although with the recent
> cold if the heat comes on while taking a shower it gets a good deal less
> hot but still acceptable.
>



-- 
OK Don
"They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Benjamin Franklin 1775
"in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes."
- Benjamin Franklin 1789
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Heating

[Curt Raymond]

How much propane are we talking about total?

We use 20# cans at camp because they're easy to swap out. We only use maybe 40# 
on a really heavy year and most of that is if I do a lot of baking. Once we 
build our wood fired outdoor oven we'll cut way down on propane use.

Our price per gallon is of course quite a lot more but the convenience is worth 
it.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2014 18:02:07 -0500
From: Mitch Haley 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Water Heating
Message-ID: <52e04def.2030...@voyager.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Dieselhead wrote:
> But the propane use is normally under one tank per year.  If we don't 
> use the tank, we have to pay for a full tank anyway. 

Sounds like time to start shopping for a tank of your own.
I like my providers' policy. If I don't buy 500 gallons between July 1 and June 
30, they bill me $30 for a year's rent on the tank.

Mitch.
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Heating

[Dieselhead]

Dieselhead wrote:
But the propane use is normally under one tank per year.  If we 
don't use the tank, we have to pay for a full tank anyway.


Sounds like time to start shopping for a tank of your own.
I like my providers' policy. If I don't buy 500 gallons between July 
1 and June 30, they bill me $30 for a year's rent on the tank.


Mitch.


If we don't buy a 100 lb tank per year, they charge us $100 or more. 
If I was there whenever it was used, I'd do something.  We use about 
a tank a year, and other people are often there.  It is simpler just 
to put up with it.


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Heating

[Randy Bennell]

On 22/01/2014 5:25 PM, Craig wrote:

I assume these barrels could withstand the pressure of the water system.

That's a big assumption, depending upon your pressure. Kind of like my
vacuum-cleaner powered oil change sucker collapsing its plastic oil
receptacle, only inverse.



Pump is down at the lake and has to push the water up another 25 or more 
vertical feet so pressure up top is not great - probably 30# if we are 
lucky.


Randy

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Heating

[Craig]

On Wed, 22 Jan 2014 16:57:01 -0600 Randy Bennell 
wrote:

> On 22/01/2014 4:48 PM, Craig wrote:
> > But would you want to drink water from one of those barrels?

> No but I don't generally drink warm water anyway. At the lake, I try
> to stick to cold beer.

Good idea! 


> (I don't think I spelled regularely right up top either. Still looks 
> funny even in this line.
> Not sure why spell check does not give me a clue on this.)

Regularly.


> I assume these barrels could withstand the pressure of the water system.

That's a big assumption, depending upon your pressure. Kind of like my
vacuum-cleaner powered oil change sucker collapsing its plastic oil
receptacle, only inverse.


> We use a couple of these barrels to catch rain water and they don't 
> smell like plastic.

That's promising.


Craig

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Heating

[Dan Penoff]

I insulated all the hot water lines (copper) in that house.  As I mentioned 
before, the hot water consumption for a family of four (with two teenage/early 
20s boys) was something like $12-$18/month using natural gas.  At least that 
was what our bill averaged in the summertime.

Dan


On Jan 22, 2014, at 5:58 PM, Craig wrote:

> On Wed, 22 Jan 2014 16:50:14 -0600 Randy Bennell 
> wrote:
> 
>> Apparently these use power as the water cools somewhat on its way
>> around the loop so it remains to be seen if the cost of the heating
>> exceeds the savings from not running water down the drain while waiting
>> for the hot water. Probably never truly know the answer to the question.
> 
> Yes, they do use energy. You could selectively insulate the return pipe
> just enough to keep the density-difference thermal-syphon running to
> reduce energy consumption.
> 
> 
>> But I like the idea of faster hot water at the tap.
> 
> I do, too. With a single-story house on a slab, though, we cannot
> implement that kind of thing.
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Heating

[Mitch Haley]

Dieselhead wrote:
But the propane use is normally under one tank per year.  If we don't 
use the tank, we have to pay for a full tank anyway. 


Sounds like time to start shopping for a tank of your own.
I like my providers' policy. If I don't buy 500 gallons between July 1 and June 
30, they bill me $30 for a year's rent on the tank.


Mitch.

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Heating

[Craig]

On Wed, 22 Jan 2014 16:50:14 -0600 Randy Bennell 
wrote:

> Apparently these use power as the water cools somewhat on its way
> around the loop so it remains to be seen if the cost of the heating
> exceeds the savings from not running water down the drain while waiting
> for the hot water. Probably never truly know the answer to the question.

Yes, they do use energy. You could selectively insulate the return pipe
just enough to keep the density-difference thermal-syphon running to
reduce energy consumption.


> But I like the idea of faster hot water at the tap.

I do, too. With a single-story house on a slab, though, we cannot
implement that kind of thing.


Craig

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Heating

[Randy Bennell]

On 22/01/2014 4:48 PM, Craig wrote:

On Wed, 22 Jan 2014 13:26:47 -0600 Randy Bennell 
wrote:


Could likely use some of the plastic barrels that are regularely
offered around here for anywhere from free to $10 each.
Good solid 40 gallon barrels that originally held some sort of liquid
soap. Paint them black and fill them up.

But would you want to drink water from one of those barrels?


Craig


No but I don' t generally drink warm water anyway. At the lake, I try to 
stick to cold beer.
(I don't think I spelled regularely right up top either. Still looks 
funny even in this line.

Not sure why spell check does not give me a clue on this.)

I would run the water into the barrels to warm up so that it would 
supplement the little hot water tank. I do assume that any plastic smell 
would dissipate over time.

I assume these barrels could withstand the pressure of the water system.
We use a couple of these barrels to catch rain water and they don't 
smell like plastic.
We don't drink the lake water any more anyway. I guess we could if we 
filtered it etc but we just bring drinking water along or get it from a 
local well that has tested as good.


Randy



___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Heating

[Randy Bennell]

I have installed a thermal siphon like that as part of my ongoing upper 
bath remodel. I ran pex in a loop from the hwt to the 2nd floor bath and 
back to the basement to a T at the base of the hwt. Not sure how well it 
works as I don't have that bath operational as yet. Currently doing the 
tile floor.  I tested it however and it seems to work. The idea, of 
course, was to not waste water in the 2nd floor bath waiting for the hot 
water to come all the way from the basement. Apparently these use power 
as the water cools somewhat on its way around the loop so it remains to 
be seen if the cost of the heating exceeds the savings from not running 
water down the drain while waiting for the hot water. Probably never 
truly know the answer to the question.


But I like the idea of faster hot water at the tap.

Randy

On 22/01/2014 4:41 PM, Craig wrote:

On Wed, 22 Jan 2014 11:32:56 -0600 Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:


I have hat thoughts of putting an old range boiler tank in the attic
(horizontally) at the lake cottage and then feeding from it to the
water heater as a preheater.   Or, just using a pipe strung under the
rafters for a gravity fed loop.  It gets rather toasty up there in
the summer.

For a gravity-fed loop, the heat source has to be at the bottom.

When we lived in Colorado Springs, we had a tank-type hot water heater in
the basement underneath the kitchen. An insulated copper pipe went from
the heater's outlet to the kitchen faucet and then a second copper pipe
went from the faucet down to the center leg of a tee that extended the
drain valve out from the tank.

The cooler, heavier water in the uninsulated pipe caused a circulation
that always kept the water at the kitchen faucet hot, allowing immediate
hot water when the faucet was turned on.

I thought it was a very clever idea.




But the propane use is normally under one tank per year.  If we don't
use the tank, we have to pay for a full tank anyway.

What in the world?! You pay for propane even when you don't use it?!


Craig





___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Heating

[Craig]

On Wed, 22 Jan 2014 13:26:47 -0600 Randy Bennell 
wrote:

> Could likely use some of the plastic barrels that are regularely
> offered around here for anywhere from free to $10 each.
> Good solid 40 gallon barrels that originally held some sort of liquid
> soap. Paint them black and fill them up.

But would you want to drink water from one of those barrels?


Craig

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Heating

[Dan Penoff]

I did much the same in our house in Indianapolis.  My youngest son's bedroom 
was on the second floor as far away from the water heater as you could get.  
While I couldn't reach up to his bathroom, I ran a loop in the hot water supply 
line to the point where the line went up into the wall cavity in the basement 
and ran it back to a tee in the drain fitting of the heater (the heater was in 
the basement).  While it didn't circulate hot water all the way up to his 
bathroom, it cut down on the time it took for him to get hot water.

Dan


On Jan 22, 2014, at 5:41 PM, Craig wrote:

> On Wed, 22 Jan 2014 11:32:56 -0600 Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>> I have hat thoughts of putting an old range boiler tank in the attic 
>> (horizontally) at the lake cottage and then feeding from it to the 
>> water heater as a preheater.   Or, just using a pipe strung under the 
>> rafters for a gravity fed loop.  It gets rather toasty up there in 
>> the summer.
> 
> For a gravity-fed loop, the heat source has to be at the bottom.
> 
> When we lived in Colorado Springs, we had a tank-type hot water heater in
> the basement underneath the kitchen. An insulated copper pipe went from
> the heater's outlet to the kitchen faucet and then a second copper pipe
> went from the faucet down to the center leg of a tee that extended the
> drain valve out from the tank.
> 
> The cooler, heavier water in the uninsulated pipe caused a circulation
> that always kept the water at the kitchen faucet hot, allowing immediate
> hot water when the faucet was turned on.
> 
> I thought it was a very clever idea.
> 
> 
> 
>> But the propane use is normally under one tank per year.  If we don't 
>> use the tank, we have to pay for a full tank anyway.
> 
> What in the world?! You pay for propane even when you don't use it?!
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Heating

[Craig]

On Wed, 22 Jan 2014 11:32:56 -0600 Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I have hat thoughts of putting an old range boiler tank in the attic 
> (horizontally) at the lake cottage and then feeding from it to the 
> water heater as a preheater.   Or, just using a pipe strung under the 
> rafters for a gravity fed loop.  It gets rather toasty up there in 
> the summer.

For a gravity-fed loop, the heat source has to be at the bottom.

When we lived in Colorado Springs, we had a tank-type hot water heater in
the basement underneath the kitchen. An insulated copper pipe went from
the heater's outlet to the kitchen faucet and then a second copper pipe
went from the faucet down to the center leg of a tee that extended the
drain valve out from the tank.

The cooler, heavier water in the uninsulated pipe caused a circulation
that always kept the water at the kitchen faucet hot, allowing immediate
hot water when the faucet was turned on.

I thought it was a very clever idea.



> But the propane use is normally under one tank per year.  If we don't 
> use the tank, we have to pay for a full tank anyway.

What in the world?! You pay for propane even when you don't use it?!


Craig

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Water Heating [was: Re: Coleman collectors WAS: low cost 3D metal printer]

[Andrew Strasfogel]

IIRC the thermostat is set way high, but I will double check.  I might have
lowered it too much.  If I did, then D'OH to me.




On Wed, Jan 22, 2014 at 3:09 PM, Mitch Haley  wrote:

> Andrew Strasfogel wrote:
>
>> Not sure what to make of all this discussion, inasmuch as a lot pertains
>> to
>> electric heaters.  We have a 50 gallon, 12 year old Sears NG tank.  I like
>> the idea of preheating the water into the NG tank using an electric
>> tankless unit.  Does everyone agree this will be the most cost effective
>> way to increase the volume of really hot water to the big tub?
>>
>
> Most cost effective thing is to drain the dirt out of the bottom of the
> heater so it holds 50 gallons of water again.
>
> 2nd most cost effective thing is probably cranking the thermostat to
> 140-150, so you can blend that 50 gallons of hot water with some cold to
> make more than 50 gallons.
>
>
> Mitch.
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com