[neonixie-l] Multiplexing problems (low current)
Hi everyone. First of all, I wish you a happy New Year and all the best! Even after searching the whole group, I have some questions about multiplexing, now that I've finally received my spare uC. I am using this schematic http://www. imageshack .us/photo/my-images/ 209/anodecontrol .png (remove spaces) to control lighting of each IN-14 nixie in my 6x muxing. You might have noticed the R4 having the value of 0.00 ohm. As I noticed the lack of current through the nixies, I reduced it's value, untill it finally made me to completely remove it. I know it's a big NO-NO, but it does seem to work OK. Can I stick up with that, Or will it effect the lifetime of the nixie tubes? Now I am getting the readings from 1.3 to 1.8 mA through the nixies (sadly that's highest so far), depending on which digit is displaying, which is kind of weird. I guess it can relate to the size of each cathode. I am guessing that my multimeter is showing the average when measuring current, and RMS when measuring voltage (someone please correct me if this is wrong). I am using the following settings for multiplexing; 1. turn on the correct nixie 2. calculate and input the bits for the K155ID1 (or the 74141), this takes a bit of time (instead of blanking) 3. wait for 1uS 4. turn the nixie off 5. do it all over for the next nixie/digit As I am writing this, I noticed I might as well switch the first two. So this setup is bright enough, gives no flickering, no ghosting, but makes the nixies sing a little bit (barely noticable, only if I am very close). Waiting longer on the ON time doesn't give me much more current through the nixie, and also adds flickering. So yeah, I am worried about the current and about having no resistor on the anodes. I would say that my multiplexing sequence is OK. Also I am measuring only 105 volts on each nixie as it is turned on (power supply is set to 200 without the load, drops to 193 when the clock is on). It seems kind of low.. Also the voltage reading while the nixies are off is around 93 volts. What's up with that? I might as well ask about not turning the nixies on instantly. I made my clock to turn on when I clap twice, show the time, date and temperature. Just to save precious nixie lifetime. So sometimes one or two random nixies do not turn on instantly, but need a second or two to turn on after the others. If I turn them on after they are off again, they all turn on instantly. Can it be that the cathodes need to warm up, or is it something with my code? That's about it! Thanks in advance! Imbanon -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Multiplexing problems (low current)
On 1/9/12 7:03 AM, Imbanon wrote: Hi everyone. First of all, I wish you a happy New Year and all the best! Even after searching the whole group, I have some questions about multiplexing, now that I've finally received my spare uC. I am using this schematic http://www. imageshack .us/photo/my-images/ 209/anodecontrol .png (remove spaces) to control lighting of each IN-14 nixie in my 6x muxing. You might have noticed the R4 having the value of 0.00 ohm. As I noticed the lack of current through the You need to use a PNP transistor, MPSA92, for the anode switch. An NPN will never turn on the Nixie tube, because the base has to be more positive than the emitter, and that's not possible in the circuit you published. -- David Forbes, Tucson AZ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
belay that! (was Re: [neonixie-l] Multiplexing problems (low current))
On 1/9/12 8:51 AM, David Forbes wrote: On 1/9/12 7:03 AM, Imbanon wrote: Hi everyone. First of all, I wish you a happy New Year and all the best! Even after searching the whole group, I have some questions about multiplexing, now that I've finally received my spare uC. I am using this schematic http://www. imageshack .us/photo/my-images/ 209/anodecontrol .png (remove spaces) to control lighting of each IN-14 nixie in my 6x muxing. You might have noticed the R4 having the value of 0.00 ohm. As I noticed the lack of current through the You need to use a PNP transistor, MPSA92, for the anode switch. An NPN will never turn on the Nixie tube, because the base has to be more positive than the emitter, and that's not possible in the circuit you published. Sorry, I'm wrong above. I get so used to doing it one way that I forget that there is a second way to turn Nixies on and off. You need to find out where the problem lies. As a test, disconnect R2 from the circuit and see if the Nixie lights up. If so, then the problem is in the left side of the circuit. If not, the problem is on the right side of the circuit. If the left side is bad, then try increasing R1 to about 22K, and if that is not sufficient, then add a 4.7K from the emitter to the base of that transistor. If the right side is bad, then try a somewhat lower resistor value for R3. Not too low, though. On an unrelated note, the advantage of using a PNP anode transistor is that it doesn't waste power in all the R2-R3 stacks for unlit digits. -- David Forbes, Tucson AZ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] OT: overseas shipping / customs
Hi everyone, This is completely off-topic, but I know that there are many members here who do a lot of shipping of product overseas and I'd like your opinion. I usually don't sell anything to anyone overseas (it's a hassle), but recently I made an exception. After the sale was made, the buyer is now asking me to note it as a "gift" on the customs forms so that he does not have to pay import taxes. Is this standard? My first thought is, "Forget it!" and just note down the actual value he paid. However, I seem to recall that just about anything I've ever purchased from overseas sellers always seems to have it marked as a gift on the customs forms. So, the question: Is this standard practice? -Adam -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] OT: overseas shipping / customs
On 1/9/12 9:19 AM, Adam Jacobs wrote: Hi everyone, This is completely off-topic, but I know that there are many members here who do a lot of shipping of product overseas and I'd like your opinion. I usually don't sell anything to anyone overseas (it's a hassle), but recently I made an exception. After the sale was made, the buyer is now asking me to note it as a "gift" on the customs forms so that he does not have to pay import taxes. Is this standard? My first thought is, "Forget it!" and just note down the actual value he paid. However, I seem to recall that just about anything I've ever purchased from overseas sellers always seems to have it marked as a gift on the customs forms. So, the question: Is this standard practice? -Adam Yes, it's standard practice. No, it's not strictly legal. No, I don't do it. -- David Forbes, Tucson AZ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] OT: overseas shipping / customs
Hi Adam, you can check the "gift" option, but he will have to pay anyway. This is my expercience with German customs :-) Next time, make sure that the buyer agrees to these terms prior to purchase: 1) You will NOT mark it as a gift (most common question, believe me) 2) You will NOT lie on the value This truly saves you a lot of time. Any by the way, stating it to be a gift even though it is not is not a very good idea, if they find out, you are in trouble. Best regards, Jens Hi everyone, This is completely off-topic, but I know that there are many members here who do a lot of shipping of product overseas and I'd like your opinion. I usually don't sell anything to anyone overseas (it's a hassle), but recently I made an exception. After the sale was made, the buyer is now asking me to note it as a "gift" on the customs forms so that he does not have to pay import taxes. Is this standard? My first thought is, "Forget it!" and just note down the actual value he paid. However, I seem to recall that just about anything I've ever purchased from overseas sellers always seems to have it marked as a gift on the customs forms. So, the question: Is this standard practice? -Adam -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] OT: overseas shipping / customs
Thanks for the advice, David & Jens. It sounds like you are echoing my original gut feeling on the subject. I'll just mark down the price he paid and remember to add that to the purchase agreement in the future. -Adam On 1/9/2012 8:31 AM, jb-electronics wrote: Hi Adam, you can check the "gift" option, but he will have to pay anyway. This is my expercience with German customs :-) Next time, make sure that the buyer agrees to these terms prior to purchase: 1) You will NOT mark it as a gift (most common question, believe me) 2) You will NOT lie on the value This truly saves you a lot of time. Any by the way, stating it to be a gift even though it is not is not a very good idea, if they find out, you are in trouble. Best regards, Jens Hi everyone, This is completely off-topic, but I know that there are many members here who do a lot of shipping of product overseas and I'd like your opinion. I usually don't sell anything to anyone overseas (it's a hassle), but recently I made an exception. After the sale was made, the buyer is now asking me to note it as a "gift" on the customs forms so that he does not have to pay import taxes. Is this standard? My first thought is, "Forget it!" and just note down the actual value he paid. However, I seem to recall that just about anything I've ever purchased from overseas sellers always seems to have it marked as a gift on the customs forms. So, the question: Is this standard practice? -Adam -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] OT: overseas shipping / customs
On 1/9/12 9:31 AM, jb-electronics wrote: Next time, make sure that the buyer agrees to these terms prior to purchase: 1) You will NOT mark it as a gift (most common question, believe me) 2) You will NOT lie on the value I have that statement on my website's ordering page, and people still ask me to do it. -- David Forbes, Tucson AZ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] OT: overseas shipping / customs
Just to chime in I have a few accounts on ebay. One (up until a year ago) was for selling RC Truck parts. 348 auctions daily. Amazingly, about 25% was for OUT of the United States. I would say that nearly 100% of those buyers asked that they be marked as gifts. I was told "They are being purchased as gifts for their kids, etc." Yah yah, I know. Not saying it is right or wrong. Just saying that I only ever had one issue with customs (excluding lost packages) over the 1.5 years I was selling those parts. That issue was for the hoods (bigest part). Maybe they inspect by size/weight? Michail In a message dated 1/9/2012 8:44:42 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, a...@jacobs.us writes: 1) You will NOT mark it as a gift (most common question, believe me) -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] OT: overseas shipping / customs
It seems standard for them to "ask for it", as a lot of them do, because the import duties, fees, customs are quite substantial in some countries. But I believe that there are many laws that you would be breaking if you lied about it the form. An interesting side note follows. There is now a seller on Ebay selling what he refers to as a 'consolidating service' for international buyers. There is probably some legitimacy to the service, but I 'suspect' that it has more to do with how to get out of paying customs fees etc. Here's how I see it working. An over seas buyer buys a number of lots on ebay, and or elsewhere. All lots are then shipped to the "consolidation point" and are consolidated. The 'consolidator' then puts a very low or zero dollar amount on the customs forms since he is not the SELLER of the items. He may even just put the fee that he charges for his "consolidating" service. Thus the buyer gets away without having to pay for the customs fees, etc. If you want to check it out, look at item number 120837996465 on eBay right now. I could be wrong about this, but all kinds of red flags and sirens went off with me when I read about it. Take care, and my advice is do NOT do something that could possibly come back and haunt you. Ira. On 1/9/2012 8:19 AM, Adam Jacobs wrote: Hi everyone, This is completely off-topic, but I know that there are many members here who do a lot of shipping of product overseas and I'd like your opinion. I usually don't sell anything to anyone overseas (it's a hassle), but recently I made an exception. After the sale was made, the buyer is now asking me to note it as a "gift" on the customs forms so that he does not have to pay import taxes. Is this standard? My first thought is, "Forget it!" and just note down the actual value he paid. However, I seem to recall that just about anything I've ever purchased from overseas sellers always seems to have it marked as a gift on the customs forms. So, the question: Is this standard practice? -Adam -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. <>
Re: [neonixie-l] OT: overseas shipping / customs
...as an overseas buyer I have NEVER asked for "gift marking" . Sometimes seller ticks it off, of his own accord, but it rarely makes a difference..the Danish Customs usually catch the parcel anyways. I even had a Chinaseller who "marked it as gift and did not enclose an invoice so I wouldn't have to pay customs" (I did NOT ask him to do that!) ... now that was even worse - the parcel was opened and withheld until I provided Customs with the usual paypal invoice (up to 14 days delay!)..if the invoice is enclosed they process it automatically and ship it to me COD. Some times a parcel sneaks its way through, without any customs fee..but it seems to be totally random regarding value and size when that happens. Dan (from Denmark) - Original Message - From: micha...@aol.com To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com Sent: Monday, January 09, 2012 5:53 PM Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] OT: overseas shipping / customs Just to chime in I have a few accounts on ebay. One (up until a year ago) was for selling RC Truck parts. 348 auctions daily. Amazingly, about 25% was for OUT of the United States. I would say that nearly 100% of those buyers asked that they be marked as gifts. I was told "They are being purchased as gifts for their kids, etc." Yah yah, I know. Not saying it is right or wrong. Just saying that I only ever had one issue with customs (excluding lost packages) over the 1.5 years I was selling those parts. That issue was for the hoods (bigest part). Maybe they inspect by size/weight? Michail In a message dated 1/9/2012 8:44:42 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, a...@jacobs.us writes: 1) You will NOT mark it as a gift (most common question, believe me) -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: Multiplexing problems (low current)
On Jan 9, 6:03 am, Imbanon wrote: > Hi everyone. > First of all, I wish you a happy New Year and all the best! > > Even after searching the whole group, I have some questions about > multiplexing, now that I've finally received my spare uC. > > I am using this schematic: http:// www. imageshack. us/photo/my-images/209/ anodecontrol.png I think you're trying to make the circuit in figure (a), below: http://threeneurons.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/anode_nixie01.gif That one uses a NPN (MPSA42) and a PNP (MPSA92). Note: R3 is required, due to the non-linear nature of a BE junction. Both transistors work in the "common emitter" mode. The circuit in Figure (b) uses two NPNs. The 1st is configured as a common emitter stage, and the 2nd as an "emitter follower" (common collector). The output (emitter) will follow the input (base), so it needs to swing the entire voltage range. "Follower" stages have a voltage gain of one (rounded off, but really just under). They are used for current gain. Like in all things, don't believe me. Hook it up and see for yourself. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] OT: Google Doesn't Like Imageshack
Looks like Google is becoming (became) the "800-lb Gorilla" in the computer world. For some reason they don't like imageshack, and choke on their links. Messages here in this group, with valid imageshack links get error notices, and not posted. They probably claim that imageshack is a source of malware. I think there's a little bullying going on around here. I've noticed this problem for at least a year now. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: OT: overseas shipping / customs
I tend to just ship things without looking at messages first, so I rarely alter the value, and always check "merchandise". But, I did have a couple of problems last spring. A couple of German buyers asked me about their expected packages, over a month after I shipped them. I sent replacements in both cases, only to find that the original parcels where finally delivered almost two months after I handed them off to my local post office. Seems German Customs had read the operations manual of California's Department of Motor Vehicles, thus work as quickly. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
RE: [neonixie-l] OT: overseas shipping / customs
Here in the Netherlands duty is paid if the value is above a certain amount (as far as I remember about $45 including shipment). If you want the fine print, I'll check it. So it may be in some cases wise to divide a shipment over multiple packages and sometimes it is wise to take the risk to let send it in assured if the buyer agrees the risk. What also helps is to announce it as defect and 'without economic value'. That is what I do for tubes, sold for an ePay fancy price, with open filament or other scrap. Actually that is the truth in those cases. Anyhow, I am wondering that American people, who are so opposite against tax payment, is so strict in this matter... Consider that customs aren't very compliant in case of their failure. Once I had to pay $100 for a parcel that after opening proved not to be for me. It was tough work to get somewhat of the money back and then even excluding administration costs. It took 3 months and a claw full of phone coins to get $60 on my account :-((. The problem was the seller had placed my address on somebody else's parcel. I was not allowed not check the content before acceptance. eric. -Original Message- From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Instrument Resources of America Sent: maandag 9 januari 2012 17:56 To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] OT: overseas shipping / customs It seems standard for them to "ask for it", as a lot of them do, because the import duties, fees, customs are quite substantial in some countries. But I believe that there are many laws that you would be breaking if you lied about it the form. An interesting side note follows. There is now a seller on Ebay selling what he refers to as a 'consolidating service' for international buyers. There is probably some legitimacy to the service, but I 'suspect' that it has more to do with how to get out of paying customs fees etc. Here's how I see it working. An over seas buyer buys a number of lots on ebay, and or elsewhere. All lots are then shipped to the "consolidation point" and are consolidated. The 'consolidator' then puts a very low or zero dollar amount on the customs forms since he is not the SELLER of the items. He may even just put the fee that he charges for his "consolidating" service. Thus the buyer gets away without having to pay for the customs fees, etc. If you want to check it out, look at item number 120837996465 on eBay right now. I could be wrong about this, but all kinds of red flags and sirens went off with me when I read about it. Take care, and my advice is do NOT do something that could possibly come back and haunt you. Ira. On 1/9/2012 8:19 AM, Adam Jacobs wrote: > Hi everyone, > This is completely off-topic, but I know that there are many members > here who do a lot of shipping of product overseas and I'd like your > opinion. I usually don't sell anything to anyone overseas (it's a > hassle), but recently I made an exception. After the sale was made, > the buyer is now asking me to note it as a "gift" on the customs forms > so that he does not have to pay import taxes. > Is this standard? My first thought is, "Forget it!" and just note down > the actual value he paid. However, I seem to recall that just about > anything I've ever purchased from overseas sellers always seems to > have it marked as a gift on the customs forms. So, the question: Is > this standard practice? > > -Adam > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: OT: overseas shipping / customs
As far as I know, German customs can hold parcels for a maximum period of 14 days or so. But there is something weird with DHL (German parcel carrier), though. I once shipped a parcel to Venezuela and it took more than two months to arrive... Jens I tend to just ship things without looking at messages first, so I rarely alter the value, and always check "merchandise". But, I did have a couple of problems last spring. A couple of German buyers asked me about their expected packages, over a month after I shipped them. I sent replacements in both cases, only to find that the original parcels where finally delivered almost two months after I handed them off to my local post office. Seems German Customs had read the operations manual of California's Department of Motor Vehicles, thus work as quickly. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: Multiplexing problems (low current)
On Jan 9, 2:03 pm, Imbanon wrote: > 1. turn on the correct nixie > 2. calculate and input the bits for the K155ID1 (or the 74141), this > takes a bit of time (instead of blanking) > 3. wait for 1uS > 4. turn the nixie off > 5. do it all over for the next nixie/digit > Imbanon Step 3 - is that a typo and you actually mean 1mS ? 1uS sounds about 1000 times shorter than you need to be to get into the ballpark. I have muxed 4 tubes with an on-time of 350uS each tube, but only because i was trying to make some fancy effects, under normal circumstances 1mS over 6 tubes = 6mS per scan = approx 166Hz (fast enough not to flicker) The problem which might be an issue for you is if the brightness seems too low. A lot of people who start building 1 x 6 muxes try also using 2 x 3 muxes (if you have enough uC I/O to spare) and then you find the brightness to be notably better than a 1x6 scheme. Chris -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Z302C available
Hello, this is my first post, encouraged by JohnK. I have four Z302C dekatrons, used and in imperfect original boxes. I also have the bezels. (They were used in a short lived project in the early sixties as a drag racing timer) I removed them from the project and put them back in their boxes and left them in storage in my parents home. Now they need a new home with some one who will value them or use them. Location Sydney Australia. Picture at http://www.groveoz.info/dekatron/Z302C.jpg -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: GR414/CD47 (not mine)...
The topic of this $1500 used nixie sale prompted me to have a look back through my own (small) collection of nixie tubes. I suppose it says a great deal that my primary concern is that in the future I won't be able to afford nixies anymore and has nothing to do with the (mounting) value of the tubes in my collection. Probably I'm not alone. I built my first Nixie clock in 2004, an anniversary present to my wife. At that time, IN-14's were the cheapest "normal" sized nixie tube available on ebay. I think I paid between $1-$2 each for them. My wife has long made clear that I need to make sure that I have a supply of nixies for the clock sufficient to last for her entire lifespan. This is a tricky thing to guesstimate (both her life and the lifespan of the nixies). The clock has been running 24/7 since spring of 2004 and only just recently finally had its first tube failure (an IN-14. surprisingly the two IN-17's are still going strong). So, more than 7 years in a direct-drive configuration. A couple of years ago, I noticed the skyrocketing prices for nixies in general and IN-14's in particular. I bought 24. (24/4*7=42 years). I'd not thought much more about them until last night when I realized that my small collection of IN-14's is now worth more than $1000. In my tenure with this hobby, I've noticed first the IN-8-2's skyrocket in price [and dwindle in availability], then the IN-16's and now the IN-14's ($8/each now). IN-8's still seem to be available, but sockets are exceedingly rare. Strangely, the IN-18's price has remained extremely stable at approximately $30-$35/each.. lending to the suspicions about price fixing. The only trends that I am noticing are that: 1) Anything with flying leads is popular 2) Tubes seem to dwindle in availability once kits are available for that tube 3) Side-view nixies are much more popular than end-view nixies So. Right now, the only 18mm character height (was once "normal sized", now is considered "large" depending on the seller) nixie that I would consider building a new clock with if I wanted to keep costs down is the IN-12. I personally like these tubes. I wonder, is it simply that there were far more IN-12's to begin with? Or is it because people like the side-view tubes that much more? Also leads me to wonder about VFD speculation. Right now, VFD's (even large ones) are very cheap. Kits are only now becoming available for the VFD's and they have a very cool "vacuum tube" look to them. I'm assuming that the reason people like the side-view nixies more than the end-view is because of the "vacuum tube look". What do you think? Is it time to buy up a ton of large VFD's? I've never speculated with nixies before (only accidentally) but I can't help wondering. I also personally like VFD's. I like that they are a triode and are much easier to work with than the nixies. I also like it that you can build a linear amplifier with one. :D -Adam W7QI On 12/11/2011 11:31 PM, Nick wrote: On Dec 11, 9:03 pm, Jeff Thomas wrote: On Dec 11, 12:43 pm, Nick wrote: BTW. They are truly astonishing in the flesh. Quite unlike any other tube... kind of odd, as they have a standard socket, but a huge base... Nick Nick, being one of the members here who acquired a herd of these long ago, IMHO the cathode digit shape is 'butt-ugly". Their appearance reminds me more of a neon sign than of a nixie. I discussed this issue with John S a while back - I've never made a clock with these as I feel that for a domestic situation, they are just too huge - the atrium of an office, maybe - SWMBO wouldn't allow them into the house although she says she likes them (she may well be just humouring me!). Luckily, I didn't get quite as many as you, but a good stash none-the-less... The like or dislike of a nixie (or any object) is a purely subjective matter - I quite like them, they are just SO big its a bit daunting, hence not doing anything with them (at the moment). I sold a few, but in pairs. Nick -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: GR414/CD47 (not mine)...
Oops, I meant to say that my whole (small) collection of nixies is worth more than $1000.. not that 24 IN-14's are worth so much. *blush*. Are any group members making a serious try at collecting nixies for *investment* (speculation)? -Adam On 1/9/2012 1:56 PM, Adam Jacobs wrote: The topic of this $1500 used nixie sale prompted me to have a look back through my own (small) collection of nixie tubes. I suppose it says a great deal that my primary concern is that in the future I won't be able to afford nixies anymore and has nothing to do with the (mounting) value of the tubes in my collection. Probably I'm not alone. I built my first Nixie clock in 2004, an anniversary present to my wife. At that time, IN-14's were the cheapest "normal" sized nixie tube available on ebay. I think I paid between $1-$2 each for them. My wife has long made clear that I need to make sure that I have a supply of nixies for the clock sufficient to last for her entire lifespan. This is a tricky thing to guesstimate (both her life and the lifespan of the nixies). The clock has been running 24/7 since spring of 2004 and only just recently finally had its first tube failure (an IN-14. surprisingly the two IN-17's are still going strong). So, more than 7 years in a direct-drive configuration. A couple of years ago, I noticed the skyrocketing prices for nixies in general and IN-14's in particular. I bought 24. (24/4*7=42 years). I'd not thought much more about them until last night when I realized that my small collection of IN-14's is now worth more than $1000. In my tenure with this hobby, I've noticed first the IN-8-2's skyrocket in price [and dwindle in availability], then the IN-16's and now the IN-14's ($8/each now). IN-8's still seem to be available, but sockets are exceedingly rare. Strangely, the IN-18's price has remained extremely stable at approximately $30-$35/each.. lending to the suspicions about price fixing. The only trends that I am noticing are that: 1) Anything with flying leads is popular 2) Tubes seem to dwindle in availability once kits are available for that tube 3) Side-view nixies are much more popular than end-view nixies So. Right now, the only 18mm character height (was once "normal sized", now is considered "large" depending on the seller) nixie that I would consider building a new clock with if I wanted to keep costs down is the IN-12. I personally like these tubes. I wonder, is it simply that there were far more IN-12's to begin with? Or is it because people like the side-view tubes that much more? Also leads me to wonder about VFD speculation. Right now, VFD's (even large ones) are very cheap. Kits are only now becoming available for the VFD's and they have a very cool "vacuum tube" look to them. I'm assuming that the reason people like the side-view nixies more than the end-view is because of the "vacuum tube look". What do you think? Is it time to buy up a ton of large VFD's? I've never speculated with nixies before (only accidentally) but I can't help wondering. I also personally like VFD's. I like that they are a triode and are much easier to work with than the nixies. I also like it that you can build a linear amplifier with one. :D -Adam W7QI On 12/11/2011 11:31 PM, Nick wrote: On Dec 11, 9:03 pm, Jeff Thomas wrote: On Dec 11, 12:43 pm, Nick wrote: BTW. They are truly astonishing in the flesh. Quite unlike any other tube... kind of odd, as they have a standard socket, but a huge base... Nick Nick, being one of the members here who acquired a herd of these long ago, IMHO the cathode digit shape is 'butt-ugly". Their appearance reminds me more of a neon sign than of a nixie. I discussed this issue with John S a while back - I've never made a clock with these as I feel that for a domestic situation, they are just too huge - the atrium of an office, maybe - SWMBO wouldn't allow them into the house although she says she likes them (she may well be just humouring me!). Luckily, I didn't get quite as many as you, but a good stash none-the-less... The like or dislike of a nixie (or any object) is a purely subjective matter - I quite like them, they are just SO big its a bit daunting, hence not doing anything with them (at the moment). I sold a few, but in pairs. Nick -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: GR414/CD47 (not mine)...
On 1/9/2012 3:00 PM, Adam Jacobs wrote: Oops, I meant to say that my whole (small) collection of nixies is worth more than $1000.. not that 24 IN-14's are worth so much. *blush*. Are any group members making a serious try at collecting nixies for *investment* (speculation)? -Adam The smart people did that back in 2003. I suppose that the 5870s will become valuable eventually, but I'm likely to buy a bunch in the near future more since I earn a living with them. -- David Forbes, Tucson, AZ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: Multiplexing problems (low current)
Right! Sorry I meant 1mS. I wanted a 2x3 muxing, but I lack I/O pins, so I will have to stick with this one. As I said, the brightness looks surprisingly bright. @threeneurons Yeah, something like the B schematic, just that I included the R2. If I remove it, it might completely shut of my nixie, instead of leaving it under 93 volts when "off". It might be the reason for leaking some of the current through the other transistor, to the nixie. I am going to play a bit with your advices, but there is one thing that still bothers me before I continue. Can I or cannot I continue doing these test without the anode resistor? I guess the non-instant turning on isn't really a priority right now. Oh, and off topic; why do I keep getting an error while trying to post a message with a link incluced? That's why I had to chop it with spaces like that. I noticed everyone else posting normally with links, so am I doing something wrong? Thanks everyone, hoping to post my positive results soon! Imbanon On Jan 9, 9:35 pm, fixitsan wrote: > On Jan 9, 2:03 pm, Imbanon wrote: > > > 1. turn on the correct nixie > > 2. calculate and input the bits for the K155ID1 (or the 74141), this > > takes a bit of time (instead of blanking) > > 3. wait for 1uS > > 4. turn the nixie off > > 5. do it all over for the next nixie/digit > > Imbanon > > Step 3 - is that a typo and you actually mean 1mS ? > 1uS sounds about 1000 times shorter than you need to be to get into > the ballpark. I have muxed 4 tubes with an on-time of 350uS each tube, > but only because i was trying to make some fancy effects, under normal > circumstances 1mS over 6 tubes = 6mS per scan = approx 166Hz (fast > enough not to flicker) > > The problem which might be an issue for you is if the brightness seems > too low. A lot of people who start building 1 x 6 muxes try also using > 2 x 3 muxes (if you have enough uC I/O to spare) and then you find the > brightness to be notably better than a 1x6 scheme. > > Chris -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
RE: [neonixie-l] OT: overseas shipping / customs >>>CORRECTION<<
CORRECTION : This is the right customs rule: • Under €22,-- (about $28.00) It is free • Between €22,-- and €149,-- ($117.00) You have to pay 19% purchase tax over the total of the value plus postage fee and other costs. • From €150,-- and more, there is a duty of 12% total of the value plus the other costs above eric -Original Message- From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Tidak Ada Sent: maandag 9 januari 2012 20:52 To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com Subject: RE: [neonixie-l] OT: overseas shipping / customs Here in the Netherlands duty is paid if the value is above a certain amount (as far as I remember about $45 including shipment). If you want the fine print, I'll check it. So it may be in some cases wise to divide a shipment over multiple packages and sometimes it is wise to take the risk to let send it in assured if the buyer agrees the risk. What also helps is to announce it as defect and 'without economic value'. That is what I do for tubes, sold for an ePay fancy price, with open filament or other scrap. Actually that is the truth in those cases. Anyhow, I am wondering that American people, who are so opposite against tax payment, is so strict in this matter... Consider that customs aren't very compliant in case of their failure. Once I had to pay $100 for a parcel that after opening proved not to be for me. It was tough work to get somewhat of the money back and then even excluding administration costs. It took 3 months and a claw full of phone coins to get $60 on my account :-((. The problem was the seller had placed my address on somebody else's parcel. I was not allowed not check the content before acceptance. eric. -Original Message- From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Instrument Resources of America Sent: maandag 9 januari 2012 17:56 To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] OT: overseas shipping / customs It seems standard for them to "ask for it", as a lot of them do, because the import duties, fees, customs are quite substantial in some countries. But I believe that there are many laws that you would be breaking if you lied about it the form. An interesting side note follows. There is now a seller on Ebay selling what he refers to as a 'consolidating service' for international buyers. There is probably some legitimacy to the service, but I 'suspect' that it has more to do with how to get out of paying customs fees etc. Here's how I see it working. An over seas buyer buys a number of lots on ebay, and or elsewhere. All lots are then shipped to the "consolidation point" and are consolidated. The 'consolidator' then puts a very low or zero dollar amount on the customs forms since he is not the SELLER of the items. He may even just put the fee that he charges for his "consolidating" service. Thus the buyer gets away without having to pay for the customs fees, etc. If you want to check it out, look at item number 120837996465 on eBay right now. I could be wrong about this, but all kinds of red flags and sirens went off with me when I read about it. Take care, and my advice is do NOT do something that could possibly come back and haunt you. Ira. On 1/9/2012 8:19 AM, Adam Jacobs wrote: > Hi everyone, > This is completely off-topic, but I know that there are many members > here who do a lot of shipping of product overseas and I'd like your > opinion. I usually don't sell anything to anyone overseas (it's a > hassle), but recently I made an exception. After the sale was made, > the buyer is now asking me to note it as a "gift" on the customs forms > so that he does not have to pay import taxes. > Is this standard? My first thought is, "Forget it!" and just note down > the actual value he paid. However, I seem to recall that just about > anything I've ever purchased from overseas sellers always seems to > have it marked as a gift on the customs forms. So, the question: Is > this standard practice? > > -Adam > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send e
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: GR414/CD47 (not mine)...
Build your own Nixie tubes, that is the solution ;-))) No, it will take me some more time :-) Jens On 1/9/2012 3:00 PM, Adam Jacobs wrote: Oops, I meant to say that my whole (small) collection of nixies is worth more than $1000.. not that 24 IN-14's are worth so much. *blush*. Are any group members making a serious try at collecting nixies for *investment* (speculation)? -Adam The smart people did that back in 2003. I suppose that the 5870s will become valuable eventually, but I'm likely to buy a bunch in the near future more since I earn a living with them. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Multiplexing problems (low current)
Is that a typo :- ""Step 3 - is that a typo and you actually mean 1mS ?" or do you mean 1ms ? John K. - Original Message - ...clip... 3. wait for 1uS ...clip Step 3 - is that a typo and you actually mean 1mS ? ...clip. Chris -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: Z302C available
I would quite like those in my little collection, they seem quite unusual. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/eSoh0AIIJg4J. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: Multiplexing problems (low current)
I don't know what's the difference :/ I meant 1ms (one millisecond or 1*10^-3 seconds). Hope that clears it. Anyways, I don't really know how I am going to test this out. I can't believe how much bad luck I have. I patched up the power supply, just like every time, leaved the breadboard alone and didn't touch anything. Should have worked as before. I switched on the uC. The next thing I know, something cough up in smoke (I still can't find out what). The uC worked just fine, until now. Apparently, it got stuck within it's bootloader or something like that, as reported by the many others on the net.. just that no one ever mentioned any smoke.. The status LEDs show that it does something when restarted, but it still won't let me program it again. The error says that the programmer isn't responding. Maybe some of the controlling MPSA42 (from the first post) smoked out, let the current into the uC and fried it. So now I need to ether try to reburn the bootloader and see if that's the case, or get a new uC and wait for it for another month. If not, something else went off. Now please go ahead and spit on me for using an arduino. Sigh.. Cheers people On Jan 10, 12:48 am, "JohnK" wrote: > Is that a typo :- ""Step 3 - is that a typo and you actually mean 1mS ?" or > do you mean 1ms ? > > John K. > > - Original Message - > > ...clip... > > 3. wait for 1uS > ...clip > > Step 3 - is that a typo and you actually mean 1mS ? > ...clip. > Chris -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Multiplexing problems (low current)
> I patched up the power supply, just like every time, leaved the > breadboard alone and didn't touch anything. Should have worked as > before. I switched on the uC. I darkly suspect you were overrunning your nixies, but with the short duty cycle, it wasn't obvious. When the processor paused in the bootloader, the very fast cycle stopped, and one nixie got full power supply current through itself and its transistor (since there was no current limiting anode resistor), and the transistor smoked. > So now I need to ether try to reburn the bootloader and see if that's > the case, or get a new uC and wait for it for another month. If not, > something else went off. > Now please go ahead and spit on me for using an arduino. Hopefully it's one of the socketed Arduinos, in which case you can pop in another microcontroller chip and be good to go again. I use Arduinos to drive nixies (there's even a shield for it), nothing wrong with that approach, and you don't have to buy a separate programmer. Sadly, I suspect your hardware design needed more fine tuning before being hooked to a microcontroller. If I were you, I'd put back the anode resistor and try manually switching a single digit by running +5V and ground into the switch transistor via its current limiting resistor. Get your current and brightness dialed in that way, then try controlling it with something else. If it suddenly gets dim then, you have the information that it worked fine beforehand, and you know where to look. Why do you have to wait an entire month for another microcontroller? - John -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: hello from new guy
I once saw a method for getting BOTH halves of the NE-2 to light up. img503. imageshack. us /img503 /4753 /neondrivetj5.gif I have never gotten it work. Anyone have any suggestions on making it work right? On Dec 27 2011, 5:54 pm, John Rehwinkel wrote: > > Anyway, I'd like to use two neon lamps to display the colon between > > hours and minutes; do any of you have any suggestions for a lamp/tube > > that runs on a similar voltage as the nixies? > > Ordinary NE-2 bulbs seem to maintain at 67 volts or so, so a pair of 'em will > generally run cheerfully > from a nixie supply. You can also run them individually, with larger current > limiting resistors. > > Running 'em on DC will only have one of the electrodes glow, which may or may > not matter to you. > There are various schemes to switch the power at a high frequency (so both > electrodes appear lit) > or a low frequency (so the colons dance at 1Hz or so). > > - Welcome aboard, > John -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: hello from new guy
On 12-01-09 09:24 PM, Thomas Kreschollek wrote: imageshack. us /img503 /4753 /neondrivetj5.gif Can't seem to load the link, it has gotten some spaces inserted it seems. NE2 lamps light on both terminals when given AC to work with. -- Charles MacDonald Stittsville Ontario cm...@zeusprune.ca Just Beyond the Fringe http://users.trytel.com/~cmacd/tubes.html No Microsoft Products were used in sending this e-mail. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: hello from new guy
I added spaces because someone said Google is deleting imageshack links. Try this link: http://bit.ly/y0aREJ The trick is that if you only have a DC source, how to get AC to get bot electrodes glowing. On Jan 9, 8:35 pm, Charles MacDonald wrote: > On 12-01-09 09:24 PM, Thomas Kreschollek wrote: > > > imageshack. us /img503 /4753 /neondrivetj5.gif > > Can't seem to load the link, it has gotten some spaces inserted it seems. > > NE2 lamps light on both terminals when given AC to work with. > > -- > Charles MacDonald Stittsville Ontario > cm...@zeusprune.ca Just Beyond the > Fringehttp://users.trytel.com/~cmacd/tubes.html > No Microsoft Products were used in sending this e-mail. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: hello from new guy
> I once saw a method for getting BOTH halves of the NE-2 to light up. > > img503. imageshack. us /img503 /4753 /neondrivetj5.gif > > I have never gotten it work. Anyone have any suggestions on making it > work right? It attempts to derive the drive for the second transistor by phase shifting the pulses with the capacitor. It would tend to work well only at one frequency. Here's the approach I use: http://www.vitriol.com/images/tech/ne2both.gif High input lights one side, low lights the other side, a square wave oscillates between them. At one hertz, this makes a nice colon indicator, hopping back and forth visibly between the electrodes. At a hundred hertz or higher, both appear to be lit. You can use a transistor as the inverter, or drive both transistors directly from microcontroller I/O pins - if you do it that way, if you turn both transistors on or off at the same time, the light will go out. If one is on and one is off, you light one electrode. - John -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: hello from new guy
I like that, thanks! Should also work with a 555 since it will source and sink? I'm looking to add it to All Spectrum's uC kit. Somehow I never got into uC programing, so I end up buying it from someone else. On Jan 9, 9:03 pm, John Rehwinkel wrote: > > I once saw a method for getting BOTH halves of the NE-2 to light up. > > > img503. imageshack. us /img503 /4753 /neondrivetj5.gif > > > I have never gotten it work. Anyone have any suggestions on making it > > work right? > > It attempts to derive the drive for the second transistor by phase shifting > the pulses with the capacitor. It would tend to work well only at one > frequency. Here's the approach I use: > > http://www.vitriol.com/images/tech/ne2both.gif > > High input lights one side, low lights the other side, a square wave > oscillates between them. At one hertz, this makes a nice colon indicator, > hopping back and forth visibly between the electrodes. At a hundred hertz or > higher, both appear to be lit. You can use a transistor as the inverter, or > drive both transistors directly from microcontroller I/O pins - if you do it > that way, if you turn both transistors on or off at the same time, the light > will go out. If one is on and one is off, you light one electrode. > > - John -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: hello from new guy
Wait...what. That won't work. Needs an inverter or something. I have some flip-flops that needs a use. On Jan 9, 9:12 pm, Thomas Kreschollek wrote: > I like that, thanks! > > Should also work with a 555 since it will source and sink? I'm > looking to add it to All Spectrum's uC kit. Somehow I never got into > uC programing, so I end up buying it from someone else. > > On Jan 9, 9:03 pm, John Rehwinkel wrote: > > > > > > > > > > I once saw a method for getting BOTH halves of the NE-2 to light up. > > > > img503. imageshack. us /img503 /4753 /neondrivetj5.gif > > > > I have never gotten it work. Anyone have any suggestions on making it > > > work right? > > > It attempts to derive the drive for the second transistor by phase shifting > > the pulses with the capacitor. It would tend to work well only at one > > frequency. Here's the approach I use: > > >http://www.vitriol.com/images/tech/ne2both.gif > > > High input lights one side, low lights the other side, a square wave > > oscillates between them. At one hertz, this makes a nice colon indicator, > > hopping back and forth visibly between the electrodes. At a hundred hertz > > or higher, both appear to be lit. You can use a transistor as the > > inverter, or drive both transistors directly from microcontroller I/O pins > > - if you do it that way, if you turn both transistors on or off at the same > > time, the light will go out. If one is on and one is off, you light one > > electrode. > > > - John -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] OT: overseas shipping / customs
On 12-01-09 11:55 AM, Instrument Resources of America wrote: An interesting side note follows. There is now a seller on Ebay selling what he refers to as a 'consolidating service' for international buyers. There is probably some legitimacy to the service, but I 'suspect' that it has more to do with how to get out of paying customs fees etc. I would be suspicious of an e-bay offer to provide that service. I know there are services that advertise here in Canada to do just that. Many american sellers will ONLY ship within the US, and not "Overseas" (as if the St Laurence seaway constituted a "sea") and some also will only deal with US issued cards. one http://www.borderfree.ca/ is actually run by the Canadian post office and makes deals with US merchants to handle stuff for them. One popualr method is like http://shiptotheborder.com/ which arranges for places like UPS stores to hold packages for Canadians to drive down and pick up. The customer has to clear though customs and show their Receipts on the way back. general folks like the e-bay guy also exist like http://www.reship.com/ -- Charles MacDonald Stittsville Ontario cm...@zeusprune.ca Just Beyond the Fringe http://users.trytel.com/~cmacd/tubes.html No Microsoft Products were used in sending this e-mail. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Multiplexing problems (low current)
Sorry, I was having a little dig at Chris after he partially corrected you. From a wiki :- "The siemens (symbol: S) is the SI derived unit of electric conductance and electric admittance. Conductance and admittance are the reciprocals of resistance and impedance respectively, hence one siemens is equal to the reciprocal of one ohm, and is sometimes referred to as the mho. " "The second (SI unit symbol: s; informal abbreviation: sec or double prime symbol ″) is a unit of measurement of time, and is the International System of Units (SI) base unit of time." John K. - Original Message - From: "Imbanon" To: "neonixie-l" Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2012 12:04 PM Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Multiplexing problems (low current) I don't know what's the difference :/ I meant 1ms (one millisecond or 1*10^-3 seconds). Hope that clears it. ...clip Now please go ahead and spit on me for using an arduino. Sigh.. Cheers people On Jan 10, 12:48 am, "JohnK" wrote: Is that a typo :- ""Step 3 - is that a typo and you actually mean 1mS ?" or do you mean 1ms ? John K. - Original Message - ...clip... > 3. wait for 1uS ...clip Step 3 - is that a typo and you actually mean 1mS ? ...clip. Chris -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: Multiplexing problems (low current)
On Jan 10, 4:32 am, "JohnK" wrote: > Sorry, I was having a little dig at Chris after he partially corrected you. > It wasn't a correction John, just an issue which someone who admits they are new to multiplexing may be overlooking :) Chris -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
