Re: [neonixie-l] OT: overseas shipping / customs
Hello Tidak, Re; your comment "Anyhow, I am wondering that American people, who are so opposite against tax payment, is so strict in this matter... " It is one thing to be against taxes, and there are lots of reasons for that, it is an entirely different matter to take a chance on going to jail, or getting a very heavy fine, for LYING on a customs form. Ira. On 1/9/2012 11:52 AM, Tidak Ada wrote: Here in the Netherlands duty is paid if the value is above a certain amount (as far as I remember about $45 including shipment). If you want the fine print, I'll check it. So it may be in some cases wise to divide a shipment over multiple packages and sometimes it is wise to take the risk to let send it in assured if the buyer agrees the risk. What also helps is to announce it as defect and 'without economic value'. That is what I do for tubes, sold for an ePay fancy price, with open filament or other scrap. Actually that is the truth in those cases. Anyhow, I am wondering that American people, who are so opposite against tax payment, is so strict in this matter... Consider that customs aren't very compliant in case of their failure. Once I had to pay $100 for a parcel that after opening proved not to be for me. It was tough work to get somewhat of the money back and then even excluding administration costs. It took 3 months and a claw full of phone coins to get $60 on my account :-((. The problem was the seller had placed my address on somebody else's parcel. I was not allowed not check the content before acceptance. eric. -Original Message- From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Instrument Resources of America Sent: maandag 9 januari 2012 17:56 To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] OT: overseas shipping / customs It seems standard for them to "ask for it", as a lot of them do, because the import duties, fees, customs are quite substantial in some countries. But I believe that there are many laws that you would be breaking if you lied about it the form. An interesting side note follows. There is now a seller on Ebay selling what he refers to as a 'consolidating service' for international buyers. There is probably some legitimacy to the service, but I 'suspect' that it has more to do with how to get out of paying customs fees etc. Here's how I see it working. An over seas buyer buys a number of lots on ebay, and or elsewhere. All lots are then shipped to the "consolidation point" and are consolidated. The 'consolidator' then puts a very low or zero dollar amount on the customs forms since he is not the SELLER of the items. He may even just put the fee that he charges for his "consolidating" service. Thus the buyer gets away without having to pay for the customs fees, etc. If you want to check it out, look at item number 120837996465 on eBay right now. I could be wrong about this, but all kinds of red flags and sirens went off with me when I read about it. Take care, and my advice is do NOT do something that could possibly come back and haunt you. Ira. On 1/9/2012 8:19 AM, Adam Jacobs wrote: Hi everyone, This is completely off-topic, but I know that there are many members here who do a lot of shipping of product overseas and I'd like your opinion. I usually don't sell anything to anyone overseas (it's a hassle), but recently I made an exception. After the sale was made, the buyer is now asking me to note it as a "gift" on the customs forms so that he does not have to pay import taxes. Is this standard? My first thought is, "Forget it!" and just note down the actual value he paid. However, I seem to recall that just about anything I've ever purchased from overseas sellers always seems to have it marked as a gift on the customs forms. So, the question: Is this standard practice? -Adam -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. <>
Re: [neonixie-l] OT: overseas shipping / customs
How does that work? Seems to me, the trouble (if any) is for the receiver. Can't imagine that Dutch customs is going to chase a Chinese seller by the name of Wu Ling, through the woods of Guadong Qing Qing. I once had a larger package sent to me, from China. Customs asked me proof of payment, because the declared value of $300 seemed a bit low to them. I send them a copy of the bank transfer of ~$4500. I had to pay the usual VAT and import taxes, but no fine whatsoever. Ok, I run a business, so VAT is of no importance, and import taxex are not to bad for most goods. I have little to gain, so I have no reason to ask for lower declared values. Frank - Original Message - From: "jb-electronics" To: Sent: Monday, January 09, 2012 5:31 PM Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] OT: overseas shipping / customs This truly saves you a lot of time. Any by the way, stating it to be a gift even though it is not is not a very good idea, if they find out, you are in trouble. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: hello from new guy
>> http://www.vitriol.com/images/tech/ne2both.gif >> >> High input lights one side, low lights the other side, a square wave >> oscillates between them. At one hertz, this makes a nice colon indicator, >> hopping back and forth visibly between the electrodes. At a hundred hertz >> or higher, both appear to be lit. You can use a transistor as the inverter, >> or drive both transistors directly from microcontroller I/O pins - if you do >> it that way, if you turn both transistors on or off at the same time, the >> light will go out. If one is on and one is off, you light one electrode. > I like that, thanks! > > Should also work with a 555 since it will source and sink? Should work just dandy with a 555. - John -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: hello from new guy
> Wait...what. That won't work. Needs an inverter or something. I > have some flip-flops that needs a use. There are various ways to use a flip-flop to do this, depending on what kind of flip-flops you have. If you have the kind with Q and not-Q outputs, just wire each output to one of the transistors and lash up the flip-flop to toggle. With many kinds of flip-flops, you can do this by also hooking the not-Q output to the D input, and running your signal into the "clock" input, forming a "divide by 2" circuit. Hey presto, the two outputs turn on alternately, which is just what you need. - John -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: Multiplexing problems (low current)
I'm using the same circuit but I have these resistor values: R1 = 33k, R2 = 220k , R3 = 2.2k. I don't remember where I got those values from originally. I'm sure I just copied them from someone else's schematic. I guess the exact values are not all that critical, but I just wondering if there is a way to calculate what the "best" values would be. > > I think you're trying to make the circuit in figure (a), below: > > http://threeneurons.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/anode_nixie01.gif -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] OT: overseas shipping / customs
On 12-01-10 06:04 AM, Frank Bemelman wrote: How does that work? Seems to me, the trouble (if any) is for the receiver. Can't imagine that Dutch customs is going to chase a Chinese seller by the name of Wu Ling, through the woods of Guadong Qing Qing. Someone who puts false info on a customs form is engaging in a variant of "Mail Fraud" and could be caught and tried even if the end receipient ened up paying the correct taxes/duties. Consider the Dutch customs making note of the sender and seeing more than one package coming in with a false statement. They send a note to the originating countries postal authorities. who depending on that countries level of rule of law may prosecute, or in some places just demand a bribe. In North America the likelihood is ended up in court if fraud is part of your business. In china who knows. -- Charles MacDonald Stittsville Ontario cm...@zeusprune.ca Just Beyond the Fringe http://users.trytel.com/~cmacd/tubes.html No Microsoft Products were used in sending this e-mail. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
RE: [neonixie-l] Re: FS: Shameless Plug Time - Dekatron Spinner Kits
Hi Mike, The spinner kit arrived today. Thanks for quick dispatch. Quite complete kit, however I have to wait for the UF4007's and 1µF 400V capacitors that are ordered at Mouser by a friends in San Jose About the modification for the EZ10B rose me the question if the print is suitable for the high tension. I am afraid for the pads for R7 and R8 are quite close to each others. The same could apply for the pads of the pin-changer pad. Further I am concerned about R8 and R10 in this case. they should be able to dissipate 0.5 Watts, because of the EZ10B's higher current. Also the small modern resistors aren't able to withstand the high voltages. May be it helps to replace them by two resistors connected in series. Am I right in this ? Any suggestions from you? Regards, eric -Original Message- From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of threeneurons Sent: zaterdag 7 januari 2012 16:54 To: neonixie-l Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: FS: Shameless Plug Time - Dekatron Spinner Kits On Jan 7, 2:23 am, "Tidak Ada" wrote: > Thanks Mike, > > That's verry usefull info. Now waiting untill your stuff arrives here... > > May be I will buy suitable capacitors and diodes for the higer voltage. > Any hints for the diodes?? > > eric > For actually changing the supply to 500V, the components used, need to be rated over 250V. The supply 1st makes 250V, then enters a doubler, to get 500V. Q1 needs to be a 300V, or 400V FET. An IRFD320, rated at 400V, is provided, so no need to change this one. C2 thru C4, are 1uf, 250V, which should be swapped for 350V rated caps. D1 thru D3 provided are BAV21s which have 250V ratings. Change these to the MUR140, which is rated for 400V. UF4007 will work, too. Make sure its a UF4007, not a 1N4007. Two entirely different parts. Eric, I know, you know the difference, but someone else reading this may not. If R8 is made a 6.8K (instead of the 7.5K provided), the output should be around 500V. With R8 kept at 7.5K, but R7 raised to 820K, the output will be ~550V. Buy your parts at reputable dealers. Its already been shown, that some eBay sellers, just restamp their diodes with whatever part number is in demand. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: Multiplexing problems (low current)
On Jan 10, 1:34 am, Imbanon wrote: > I don't know what's the difference :/ > I meant 1ms (one millisecond or 1*10^-3 seconds). Hope that clears it. > The difference was a factor of 1000 Your message implied that you were using 1us (1 microsecond = 1*10^-6) of wait time. But as yoiu mean 1*10^-3 it seems the value of 1ms is about right for a starting point :) -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Multiplexing problems (low current)
On 1/10/12 8:02 AM, Ron Schuster wrote: I'm using the same circuit but I have these resistor values: R1 = 33k, R2 = 220k , R3 = 2.2k. I don't remember where I got those values from originally. I'm sure I just copied them from someone else's schematic. I guess the exact values are not all that critical, but I just wondering if there is a way to calculate what the "best" values would be. I think you're trying to make the circuit in figure (a), below: http://threeneurons.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/anode_nixie01.gif Those resistor values look familiar to me, as I used them in my nixie clocks successfully. They work only if the second transistor is a PNP type. -- David Forbes, Tucson AZ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: hello from new guy
This is called an astable oscillator by the way. -Adam On Tue, Jan 10, 2012 at 5:32 AM, John Rehwinkel wrote: > > Wait...what. That won't work. Needs an inverter or something. I > > have some flip-flops that needs a use. > > There are various ways to use a flip-flop to do this, depending on what > kind of flip-flops you have. If you have the kind with Q and not-Q > outputs, just wire each output to one of the transistors and lash up the > flip-flop to toggle. With many kinds of flip-flops, you can do this by > also hooking the not-Q output to the D input, and running your signal into > the "clock" input, forming a "divide by 2" circuit. Hey presto, the two > outputs turn on alternately, which is just what you need. > > - John > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "neonixie-l" group. > To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: Z302C available
Of course there are many in this group, including myself, who would love to have one of those tubes. In all fairness, you should probably place them on eBay, and then issue a 'shameless plug' (FS:) here. If there any individuals that should get preference, I believe it would be those who have on-line exhibits. My personal preference would be Dieter: http://www.tube-tester.com/sites/nixie/trade10-dekatron.htm He takes excellent photos, and is technically competent enough, to get one going and document his findings. At the very least, you could loan one to him until he's done evaluating it. Contact him to see if he's interested. He's married now, so things are sorta under new management. I would also mentioned the "Ohio Boys" (Vintage Technology Association), but they seem to already have one, and have done a pretty thorough investigation on this little tube: http://www.decadecounter.com/vta/articleview.php?item=830 I'm still a little partial to Dieter's site presentation, though. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: Multiplexing problems (low current)
> Oh, and off topic; why do I keep getting an error while trying to post > a message with a link incluced? That's why I had to chop it with > spaces like that. I noticed everyone else posting normally with links, > so am I doing something wrong? > Google groups doesn't like Imageshack. I've noticed this in the past, since I have an Imageshack account. I use it mostly to reference images in my eBay listings, and it worked back when we were at Yahoo. Don't have the problem with Wordpress, Skydrive, or Flickr. I mentioned it a couple of days ago, but it got no traction: http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l/browse_thread/thread/2f344a6886f3297f -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: Multiplexing problems (low current)
Thank you all for your time. It is one of the socketed arduinos. Actually, this is my second one that was fried! As these chips aren't sold around here, I have to order them online. Ebay sellers from china happen to have the cheapest offers - got mine for $7 incl. shipping! The shipment usually takes a month to arrive. I would have bought more spare chips, but I wanted to make sure everything was alright before I do so, so I got only one. This time I will surely buy at least 3, and make sure I put some blocking diodes on the pins. Just in case so this kind of thing wouldn't happen again while prototyping. Yeah I know about Siemens. Its just that I have this bad habbit writing ms as mS from college. You are actually the first ones to notice this and got confused, so I guess I should stop doing that. The idea to test the nixies controls with 5 volts is great. Its just that I will have a greater resistor on the anode (in my case any resistor at all), because it is then directly controlled. I can get a good brightnes and current that way, but it doesn't help me find out the resistors needed when multiplexing. But it will help me find out which of the 12 transistors burned out! I saw that schematic sometime, somewhere, don't know where anymore, so I tried to replicate the idea. And I can tell for sure that it used two NPN transistors, and none PNP for each tube. It's something like threeneuron's B design, just with an extra resistor. I'll play with that a little bit more. Also, what do you think about a clap-on clock? Is it really necessary, or can I get something like 10 years out of my nixies when multiplexed like this? And yeah, DO I, or do I NOT read the average current and the RMS voltage readings on the multimeter when measuring sine waves, pulses and such? Just so I know to properly calculate the peak current. Thanks again On Jan 10, 6:57 pm, threeneurons wrote: > > Oh, and off topic; why do I keep getting an error while trying to post > > a message with a link incluced? That's why I had to chop it with > > spaces like that. I noticed everyone else posting normally with links, > > so am I doing something wrong? > > Google groups doesn't like Imageshack. > > I've noticed this in the past, since I have an Imageshack account. I > use it mostly to reference images in my eBay listings, and it worked > back when we were at Yahoo. Don't have the problem with Wordpress, > Skydrive, or Flickr. > > I mentioned it a couple of days ago, but it got no traction: > > http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l/browse_thread/thread/2f344a... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Multiplexing problems (low current)
> It is one of the socketed arduinos. Actually, this is my second one > that was fried! > As these chips aren't sold around here, I have to order them online. > Ebay sellers from china happen to have the cheapest offers - got mine > for $7 incl. shipping! I used to get mine from Adafruit or Sparkfun: http://www.adafruit.com/products/123 http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10524 They're less than $7, but shipping isn't free. However, if you're buying more than a few chips, you break even pretty fast, and shipping is ever so much faster. You're also less likely to get flaky or counterfeit chips that can fail if you give them a harsh glance. However, I use enough of 'em that I got a programmer and now just buy tubes of blank chips from Digikey and burn the bootloaders myself. If I weren't currently between orders, I'd offer to burn a few and just send 'em to you. > The idea to test the nixies controls with 5 volts is great. Its just > that I will have a greater resistor on the anode (in my case any > resistor at all), because it is then directly controlled. I can get a > good brightnes and current that way, but it doesn't help me find out > the resistors needed when multiplexing. If you have decent brightness when not multiplexing, you should have at least some visibility when multiplexing, and can go from there. > Also, what do you think about a clap-on clock? Is it really necessary, > or can I get something like 10 years out of my nixies when multiplexed > like this? I like the clap-on idea. And yes, your nixies will last much longer that way. > And yeah, DO I, or do I NOT read the average current and the RMS > voltage readings on the multimeter when measuring sine waves, pulses > and such? Just so I know to properly calculate the peak current. It's a bear to get right. If you have a peak-reading meter, that'll give you the peak current directly. If you have a true RMS meter, you'll have to calculate the duty cycle, and then apply the RMS transform backwards to get the actual peak voltage. If you don't have a true RMS meter, you can't do it directly. However, you can do it indirectly by making your own peak detector circuit with a diode, capacitor, and resistor, and then measuring the resulting easy-to-measure DC voltage. - John -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Hello!
Hi, I'm deviantgeek, and I discovered nixie tubes while browsing through http://www.instructables.com/"; target="_blank">Instructables (A great site, has some cool nixie projects.) Since then, I got a velleman nixie clock kit, and now I want to design and build my own. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Hello!
> Hi, I'm deviantgeek, and I discovered nixie tubes while browsing > through http://www.instructables.com/"; > target="_blank">Instructables (A great site, has some cool nixie > projects.) Since then, I got a velleman nixie clock kit, and now I > want to design and build my own. Welcome, you will fit right in here! And you'll find the folks knowledgable, friendly, and helpful. - John -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: Hello!
Thanks! Anyways, is there a place to get nixie tubes, other than ebay? The prices are crazy there, and my budget doesn't allow that, due to my age. (I'm 12, got into electronics at 8 or 9.) (IN-18, B-7971, or B-7037) (Last 2 are super rare, but would be cool.) On Jan 10, 7:02 pm, John Rehwinkel wrote: > > Hi, I'm deviantgeek, and I discovered nixie tubes while browsing > > through http://www.instructables.com/"; > > target="_blank">Instructables (A great site, has some cool nixie > > projects.) Since then, I got a velleman nixie clock kit, and now I > > want to design and build my own. > > Welcome, you will fit right in here! And you'll find the folks knowledgable, > friendly, and helpful. > > - John -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Hello!
If you set your sights a little lower, you'll find that there are still some affordable nixies out there. Do a search for IN-12. In my experience, although there are online stores that sell nixies, most of them are more expensive than ebay. Although with ebay comes a certain amount of risk, I suppose. -Adam On 1/10/2012 4:11 PM, Deviantgeek wrote: Thanks! Anyways, is there a place to get nixie tubes, other than ebay? The prices are crazy there, and my budget doesn't allow that, due to my age. (I'm 12, got into electronics at 8 or 9.) (IN-18, B-7971, or B-7037) (Last 2 are super rare, but would be cool.) On Jan 10, 7:02 pm, John Rehwinkel wrote: Hi, I'm deviantgeek, and I discovered nixie tubes while browsing throughhttp://www.instructables.com/"; target="_blank">Instructables (A great site, has some cool nixie projects.) Since then, I got a velleman nixie clock kit, and now I want to design and build my own. Welcome, you will fit right in here! And you'll find the folks knowledgable, friendly, and helpful. - John -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Multiplexing problems (low current)
"Yeah I know about Siemens. Its just that I have this bad habbit writing ms as mS from college. You are actually the first ones to notice this and got confused, so I guess I should stop doing that." No confusion. Actually Chris was querying your micro- versus milli- second. No one was really bothered about the "S" versus "s". I was just having a bit of pedantic fun pointing out the difference when Chris also used the large S. I also usually still write the large S from habit - started doing it in the 1960s and it is hard to break the habit. John K. - Original Message - From: "Imbanon" To: "neonixie-l" Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2012 7:57 AM Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Multiplexing problems (low current) ...clip... Yeah I know about Siemens. Its just that I have this bad habbit writing ms as mS from college. You are actually the first ones to notice this and got confused, so I guess I should stop doing that. ...clip -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Hello!
By going to ebay, you are already at the cheapest place. Can't buy cheaper than the cheapest. You may get lucky in a second hand store, but you would have to be very lucky. Even old electronics store either don't exist, or they already know of ebay - many basing their prices on ebay already. IN-18 and B7971 is starting basically at the top. Have you considered a small tube? PS. Hope your hobby works out. It's quite the addiction. Michail In a message dated 1/10/2012 4:11:15 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, d3viantg...@gmail.com writes: Thanks! Anyways, is there a place to get nixie tubes, other than ebay? The prices are crazy there, and my budget doesn't allow that, due to my age. (I'm 12, got into electronics at 8 or 9.) (IN-18, B-7971, or B-7037) (Last 2 are super rare, but would be cool.) -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: Hello!
Yeah, built the vellleman kit (ZM1336, appears to be similar to the ZM1332. Nice tube, but small (13mm)) I found a source of NOS NL807 tubes for $20 each, compared to $250 for NOS IN-18 tubes. Might resort to those. (I can get the IN-18s, but no spares, for $240, I get 12 NL807s) On Jan 10, 9:12 pm, micha...@aol.com wrote: > By going to ebay, you are already at the cheapest place. Can't buy > cheaper than the cheapest. > > You may get lucky in a second hand store, but you would have to be very > lucky. Even old electronics store either don't exist, or they already know > of ebay - many basing their prices on ebay already. > > IN-18 and B7971 is starting basically at the top. Have you considered a > small tube? > > PS. Hope your hobby works out. It's quite the addiction. > > Michail > > In a message dated 1/10/2012 4:11:15 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, > > d3viantg...@gmail.com writes: > > Thanks! Anyways, is there a place to get nixie tubes, other than ebay? > The prices are crazy there, and my budget doesn't allow that, due to > my age. (I'm 12, got into electronics at 8 or 9.) (IN-18, B-7971, or > B-7037) (Last 2 are super rare, but would be cool.) -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: hello from new guy
I tried the circuit with the following values: R4=R3=22k ohm and R1=R2=220k ohm Q1=MPSA42 and Q2=MPSA92 HV= 180 VDC TP1=5 VDC Only half of it worked (one electrode lights). If I only use MPSA42 that part of the circuit works fine (made a test circuit with only the NE-2, a transistor and the required resistors). If I replace put the MPSA92 in, the NE-2 stays on, no matter if the 0V or 5V is applied to the base. I've tried 2 MPSA92's fresh from the package and still no luck. What am I missing? On Jan 10, 7:29 am, John Rehwinkel wrote: > >>http://www.vitriol.com/images/tech/ne2both.gif > > >> High input lights one side, low lights the other side, a square wave > >> oscillates between them. At one hertz, this makes a nice colon indicator, > >> hopping back and forth visibly between the electrodes. At a hundred hertz > >> or higher, both appear to be lit. You can use a transistor as the > >> inverter, or drive both transistors directly from microcontroller I/O pins > >> - if you do it that way, if you turn both transistors on or off at the > >> same time, the light will go out. If one is on and one is off, you light > >> one electrode. > > I like that, thanks! > > > Should also work with a 555 since it will source and sink? > > Should work just dandy with a 555. > > - John -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Hello!
On 1/10/12 5:11 PM, Deviantgeek wrote: Thanks! Anyways, is there a place to get nixie tubes, other than ebay? The prices are crazy there, and my budget doesn't allow that, due to my age. (I'm 12, got into electronics at 8 or 9.) (IN-18, B-7971, or B-7037) (Last 2 are super rare, but would be cool.) I sell B5870 tubes on my website for $10 each. They are good looking and easy to use, with long wire leads. I don't think there are many good-looking tubes available for less than that these days. The best deals in Nixie tubes happened when you were still in diapers, unfortunately. -- David Forbes, Tucson AZ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: hello from new guy
On 1/10/12 8:26 PM, Thomas Kreschollek wrote: I tried the circuit with the following values: R4=R3=22k ohm and R1=R2=220k ohm Q1=MPSA42 and Q2=MPSA92 HV= 180 VDC TP1=5 VDC Only half of it worked (one electrode lights). If I only use MPSA42 that part of the circuit works fine (made a test circuit with only the NE-2, a transistor and the required resistors). If I replace put the MPSA92 in, the NE-2 stays on, no matter if the 0V or 5V is applied to the base. I've tried 2 MPSA92's fresh from the package and still no luck. What am I missing? MPSA92, being PNP, gets wired differently from the schematic that you showed us. See this schematic, substituting MPSA92 for ZTX558 and MPSA42 for ZTX458: http://www.cathodecorner.com/nc620akitman.pdf -- David Forbes, Tucson AZ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Preferred language, and a good place to start.
I'm pretty familiar with BASIC, and I know it has it's limitations. I know C is VERY popular, and very useful as well. For the programmers in here, as far as microcontrollers go, what language do you prefer, and can you suggest a good way to start learning said language? Thanks Shane -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: hello from new guy
> I tried the circuit with the following values: R4=R3=22k ohm and > R1=R2=220k ohm Q1=MPSA42 and Q2=MPSA92 HV= 180 VDC TP1=5 VDC > > Only half of it worked (one electrode lights). If I only use MPSA42 > that part of the circuit works fine (made a test circuit with only the > NE-2, a transistor and the required resistors). If I replace put the > MPSA92 in, the NE-2 stays on, no matter if the 0V or 5V is applied to > the base. I've tried 2 MPSA92's fresh from the package and still no > luck. What am I missing? They're both NPN - use MPSA42 for each of them. - John -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Preferred language, and a good place to start.
> I'm pretty familiar with BASIC, and I know it has it's limitations. I > know C is VERY popular, and very useful as well. For the programmers > in here, as far as microcontrollers go, what language do you prefer, > and can you suggest a good way to start learning said language? >From a capability standpoint, either would do. However, microcontrollers have >limited memory to work with, and C, being a low level language, is easier to >get to fit in the space available. It is also easier to access specific >memory addresses with C, and to do bitwise operations, both of which are handy >when working with microcontrollers. Alas, I don't have a good suggestion for learning C, other than to recommend you not do it the way I did, from the K&R book which is a reference book, not a tutorial! I do suggest learning by doing - free C compilers are available for most computers, writing stuff and seeing what works and what doesn't is invaluable. The Arduino platform lets you program a microcontroller with a language that's pretty much like C, and the development environment lets you get started quickly. - John -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: Z302C available
i would love one of them for a project email me logan...@gmail.com thanks mike On Jan 9, 2:54 pm, Johns wrote: > Hello, this is my first post, encouraged by JohnK. > I have four Z302C dekatrons, used and in imperfect original boxes. I > also have the bezels. (They were used in a short lived project in the > early sixties as a drag racing timer) I removed them from the project > and put them back in their boxes and left them in storage in my > parents home. Now they need a new home with some one who will value > them or use them. Location Sydney Australia. > Picture athttp://www.groveoz.info/dekatron/Z302C.jpg -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
