[neonixie-l] Re: Jeff Thomas GPSII Clock

[gregebert]

I *thought* about adding GPS to my most-recent clock, but the DS3231 chip 
I'm using is so doggone accurate I dont see the need. When daylight-savings 
started last month, I manually sync'd my clock to the time on my cellphone. 
A month later, it's still within a fraction of a second.

I also thought GPS might be a solution to changing my clock when 
daylight-savings started and ended, but after doing some research I found 
that those dates where time-changes occur are now standardized for the next 
20+ years, so I'll just program them in on my next code update.

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Re: [neonixie-l] Jeff Thomas GPSII Clock

[Michail1 via neonixie-l]

MOD-6
 
Well, it's wireless GPS to the clock.
 
http://www.badnixie.com/BadNixie.com_Welcome.html
 
Michail  Wilson
206-920-6312  

 
In a message dated 4/14/2016 3:41:07 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
ml.deni...@comcast.net writes:

Is there  anyone currently making completed or kit Nixie clocks with 
built-in  GPS?

Thanks,
Mort


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[neonixie-l] Jeff Thomas GPSII Clock

[Mort]

I've owned the gpsii clock for a number of years and built it from the kit.

Lately, I've noticed that the GPS lock light never comes on.  I thought 
that the GPS board and/or the antenna had failed after so many years.  I 
got pretty worried as this is my most favorite Nixie clock.  Some years 
ago, Jeff sent me a new antenna.  I installed it to no avail.  I was using 
a PVC pole mounted on the side of the house right outside the basement 
where the clock is located.  I took the antenna down and laid it on the 
patio contemplating what to do next.  After a while I glanced at the clock 
and it was receiving GPS signals and displaying correctly once again.  It 
appears that the wired PTZ camera I had mounted on top of the pole must be 
interfering with the antenna.  It's time for a new mounting arrangement.

I have a couple of later small GPS modules that work well in my basement 
workshop and they don't require an external antenna.  Has anyone 
retrofitted a newer receiver to this clock?  I'm afraid the ability to do 
this is not in my wheel house.

Is there anyone currently making completed or kit Nixie clocks with 
built-in GPS?

Thanks,
Mort

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Re: [neonixie-l] PIxie tube 3D socket

[gregebert]

Nice homebrew socket.

I, too, am finalizing a 3D printer purchase-decision. Even though my 
first-print will be a nixie socket (imagine *that*), I plan to use a 3D 
printer for other purposes, so it's not really a cost-savings measure if I 
decided not to buy it.

In my case, the ability to print nylon objects is the tie-breaker, because 
it's more durable than PLA or ABS. 

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Re: [neonixie-l] PIxie tube 3D socket

[Paolo Cravero]

Cool, John!


> 4] Melt polymorph in cup of hot water and squidge it into the cylinder,
> around the pins - squidge is a technical term (ignore it for now, you don't
> need to know)
>

How much raw material is needed, say, for the socket in the picture you
attached? Weight, I mean. I see it comes at about 4 USD every 100 grams
from the Far East. Could be a nice family DIY material too, so I could buy
some for you-never-know ;-)

Thanks,
Paolo

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Re: [neonixie-l] PIxie tube 3D socket

[Quixotic Nixotic]

On 14 Apr 2016, at 20:14, Jonathan Peakall wrote:

> HI All,
> 
> In a couple of weeks, I'm going to be helping my nephew to assemble a 3D 
> printer. One of the first projects I would like to use it for is to make some 
> B9012 Pixie tube sockets.
> 
> I've never used a 3D printer, so it is all new to me. The data sheet I have 
> has a good mechanical drawing for a starting point. Does anyone know of an 
> off the shelf product I could use for the pin sockets? I am currently using 
> some pin sockets scrounged from common old sockets, I think from a 9 pin.
> 
> And any other advice would be much appreciated. If I can make something that 
> works, I should be able to help out any other list members that might need 
> some.
> 
> Jonathan

1] Get some pin sockets, scrounged as you describe above

2] Get cylinder from old adhesive tape tube

3] Put pin sockets on tube pins, to suit tube available

4] Centre/center tube and pins within cylinder (depending on whether you follow 
proper English or Noah Webster's artificial dialect of the aforementioned 
language)

4] Melt polymorph in cup of hot water and squidge it into the cylinder, around 
the pins - squidge is a technical term (ignore it for now, you don't need to 
know)

5] Pop the socket out of the cylinder when the polymorph has solidified

6] Buy much alcohol with the money you have saved from not buying a 3D printer, 
pour and enjoy the time you saved not making a 3D model

Job done,

John S

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[neonixie-l] Re: Nixie watch video - shameless self promotion

[Mort]

Pretty watch and a slick layout.  I'd hate to sell my original one to buy 
this one.  Too many decisions...

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Re: [neonixie-l] PIxie tube 3D socket

[John Rehwinkel]

> In a couple of weeks, I'm going to be helping my nephew to assemble a 3D 
> printer. One of the first projects I would like to use it for is to make some 
> B9012 Pixie tube sockets.
> 
> I've never used a 3D printer, so it is all new to me. The data sheet I have 
> has a good mechanical drawing for a starting point. Does anyone know of an 
> off the shelf product I could use for the pin sockets?

Some of the 3D printed sockets use Molex pins to provide side spring contacts 
(there's an 11 pin sub magnal socket on Thingiverse that works this way).

> I am currently using some pin sockets scrounged from common old sockets, I 
> think from a 9 pin.

Those are a good choice, I buy them in bulk and use them myself.  You can buy 
just the contacts, just narrow the search by "female pins", and whether you 
want crimp, solder, or whatever:

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/connectors-interconnects/d-sub-d-shaped-connectors-contacts/1442671
 


- John

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[neonixie-l] PIxie tube 3D socket

[Jonathan Peakall]

HI All,

In a couple of weeks, I'm going to be helping my nephew to assemble a 3D 
printer. One of the first projects I would like to use it for is to make 
some B9012 Pixie tube sockets.


I've never used a 3D printer, so it is all new to me. The data sheet I 
have has a good mechanical drawing for a starting point. Does anyone 
know of an off the shelf product I could use for the pin sockets? I am 
currently using some pin sockets scrounged from common old sockets, I 
think from a 9 pin.


And any other advice would be much appreciated. If I can make something 
that works, I should be able to help out any other list members that 
might need some.


Jonathan

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[neonixie-l] Re: Cathode poisoning and tube's current flow

[Luka C]

Dana četvrtak, 14. travnja 2016. u 16:56:43 UTC+2, korisnik gregebert 
napisao je:
>
> I had no luck trying to depoison 1 or 2 Burroughs 5031 tubes, even after 
> several hours. I considered these tubes expendable and put so much current 
> thru them that they got hot. Darn! I didn't measure it, though.
>
> I'm amazed how quickly you were able to depoison your tubes; I was 
> expecting days or even weeks.
>
> Did you purchase your tubes in this condition, or did it occur while they 
> were in your project? I'm curious about the conditions and timeframe that 
> cause poisoning. My 14-digit clock has several static digits, so I run a 
> 1-hour depoisoning every night; maybe it's overkill ?
>



I bought the tube with cathode poisoning so I don't really know how long 
was it operating and under which conditions. To be honest, I was also 
surprised to see most of them recover in such shorter periods. I'm not sure 
if it's of any significance but I digits that took less time to recover 
were closer to the anode grid, perhaps there is something in that. 

>From what I read on the web, the reason why your tubes didn't recover may 
be that tubes have a certain point after which they no longer seem to be 
repairable because the current that would be needed for healing to 
effectively take place is way too high and would cause the destruction of 
the tube. I don't know if your tubes still operated after cooling down, 
mine seemed to be warm to the touch, but not hot?

Regarding my clock, I have the first version of it running for around half 
a year now and there are no signs of cathode poisoning, probably both due 
to the fact that the time was way too short for it to occur and also, I 
enjoy the slot machine effect that I made for cathode poisoning prevention 
so I let it spin for ~5 seconds every 1min. So I guess letting them run the 
routine for 1 hour at night can't be a bad idea, I mean, you're sleeping 
anyway and the tubes will sure benefit from it (I guess there is no damage 
from exceeding the "standard" amount of time dedicated to anti-poisoning 
routines) :) 

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[neonixie-l] Re: Cathode poisoning and tube's current flow

[gregebert]

I had no luck trying to depoison 1 or 2 Burroughs 5031 tubes, even after 
several hours. I considered these tubes expendable and put so much current 
thru them that they got hot. Darn! I didn't measure it, though.

I'm amazed how quickly you were able to depoison your tubes; I was 
expecting days or even weeks.

Did you purchase your tubes in this condition, or did it occur while they 
were in your project? I'm curious about the conditions and timeframe that 
cause poisoning. My 14-digit clock has several static digits, so I run a 
1-hour depoisoning every night; maybe it's overkill ?

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[neonixie-l] Cathode poisoning and tube's current flow

[Luka C]

I've recently performed healing on cathode poisoned IN-18. I used the 
method of increasing the current (never more than 8mA, datasheet specifies 
it as max) to the point when all the parts of the digit light up and then 
letting it "bake" until the digit is evenly lit on nominal current of 4mA. 
I succeeded on every digit and noticed something in the process. I was 
measuring the current flowing trough the tube and it seems to increase 
gradually while the tube is healing. I guess this is perhaps related to the 
fact that removing the coating from the cathode increases it's "conductive" 
surface and thus resulting in increasing current. What seemed interesting 
was also, that unrelated to how large the poisoned segment was on the tube, 
the rate at which the current was increasing corresponded to the amount of 
time it took to heal the tube. In my case, digit "3" had almost all of the 
upper part poisoned, but once setting the current to 6.0 mA, over the next 
15min it went to 6.9mA and after that the digit was healed when returning 
to 4.0mA. On the other side, digit "8" was lightly poisoned on two places 
(both areas probably 3-4mm each) and the current was really slowly 
increasing (I had to set it to 7mA to start with) to 7.6mA and it took over 
6 hours to regenerate those areas.  So those are my observations, I wonder 
if anyone else noticed something similar?

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Divergence Meter, new design with NL-5440A/IN-14/IN-8-2, battery powered.

[Donald Stramock]

I still want one!  Any idea when you will be selling them?

Don S,

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 13, 2016, at 9:11 PM, 严泽远  wrote:
> 
> Short video of Divergence Meter ;)
> https://youtu.be/gZAcPUdptxE
> 
> 在 2015年10月14日星期三 UTC+8上午8:47:53，严泽远写道：
>> 
>> Hi Nixie friends,
>> Here's my new design Divergence Meter, use NL-5440A or IN-8-2 or IN-14 nixi 
>> tubes.
>> 
>> Please check details here, so many pictures:
>> http://www.nixieclock.org/?p=649
>> 
>> Feature list:
>> 1. Use NL-5440A nixie tubes, exactly similar with orginal Divergence Meter.
>> 2. Customize 10 Divergence value.
>> 3. Extremely accurate clock 2ppm.
>> 4. Talking clock with Chinese, English, German and Japanese.
>> 5. crossfading effect, speed adjustment.
>> 6. IR control.
>> 7. Working over 10hours with 2pcs 18650 Li-battery.
>> 8. USB power and charging.
>> 9. Stainless steel housing with laser cut.
>> 10. Laser engraving logo.
>> 
>> 
> 
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