Re: [neonixie-l] IN-18 gone bad.

2014-01-24 Thread Terry S
I don't think ZIF sockets are necessary -- too much complexity -- but a LIF 
(low insertion force) socket would be cool.
 
Imagine a socket consisting of a solid round cylinder core, with spring 
tensioned contacts surrounding the core, that would press against the pins 
when the tube is placed over the core.
Similar, non conducting dummy tensioned contacts could be on the opposite 
side of the pins, held in place by an outer ring. All contacts would be 
stamped concave to help position the tube.
 
Some other mechanical retension method might be needed to secure the tube, 
perhaps a wire over the top like you've all seen in some equipment sockets.
 
Who's got a 3D printer?
 
Terry
 

On Thursday, January 23, 2014 1:22:59 PM UTC-6, bani wrote:

 I would definitely pay for ZIF IN-18 sockets :) 

 -Dan 

 On Thu, 23 Jan 2014, John Rehwinkel wrote: 

  I caused it because I was swapping the tubes too much. The repeated 
 removal/insertions caused the tube to leak at the pins. 
  
  I still want to rotate the tubes, but I need to come up with a 
 surrogate socket so I can swap the tubes without stressing the pins. 
  
  A ZIF nixie socket!  Now that would be quite a thing!  That would also 
 dodge the usual problem in home-made sockets of having the grippers both 
 float and exert proper tension, by moving the tensioning function 
 elsewhere.  Time to start scribbling and thinking about milling out some 
 interesting shapes. 
  
  - John 
  
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Re: [neonixie-l] IN-18 gone bad.

2014-01-24 Thread Cqr
How about this for a ZIF design:

The contacts take the form of tubes with slits cut axially all round leaving 
rings uncut top and bottom to form a sort of tubular cage with no roof or floor.

If the top ring is twisted while the bottom one is held the tube will collapse 
to a hyperboloid cooling tower shape which would grip a pin.

A suitable mechanism for the twisting would be an insulating collar (perhaps 
ceramic or hard resin) running round the top of the socket with gear teeth on 
the inner face that engage in either matching teeth in the top rings of the 
sockets or perhaps the top of the slits.

So you would drop the tube in then twist the top of the socket 90 degrees or 
so... Some form of latching would be needed of course.

Hope that makes some sort of sense... 
I'll try and knock up a diagram when I get to my computer as this needs getting 
out of my head properly now :)

Cheers,
 Robin.

On 24 Jan 2014, at 21:30, Terry S tschw10...@aol.com wrote:

 I don't think ZIF sockets are necessary -- too much complexity -- but a LIF 
 (low insertion force) socket would be cool.
  
 Imagine a socket consisting of a solid round cylinder core, with spring 
 tensioned contacts surrounding the core, that would press against the pins 
 when the tube is placed over the core.
 Similar, non conducting dummy tensioned contacts could be on the opposite 
 side of the pins, held in place by an outer ring. All contacts would be 
 stamped concave to help position the tube.
  
 Some other mechanical retension method might be needed to secure the tube, 
 perhaps a wire over the top like you've all seen in some equipment sockets.
  
 Who's got a 3D printer?
  
 Terry
  
 
 On Thursday, January 23, 2014 1:22:59 PM UTC-6, bani wrote:
 I would definitely pay for ZIF IN-18 sockets :) 
 
 -Dan 
 
 On Thu, 23 Jan 2014, John Rehwinkel wrote: 
 
  I caused it because I was swapping the tubes too much. The repeated 
  removal/insertions caused the tube to leak at the pins. 
  
  I still want to rotate the tubes, but I need to come up with a surrogate 
  socket so I can swap the tubes without stressing the pins. 
  
  A ZIF nixie socket!  Now that would be quite a thing!  That would also 
  dodge the usual problem in home-made sockets of having the grippers both 
  float and exert proper tension, by moving the tensioning function 
  elsewhere.  Time to start scribbling and thinking about milling out some 
  interesting shapes. 
  
  - John 
  
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Re: [neonixie-l] IN-18 gone bad.

2014-01-23 Thread John Rehwinkel
 I caused it because I was swapping the tubes too much. The repeated 
 removal/insertions caused the tube to leak at the pins.
 
 I still want to rotate the tubes, but I need to come up with a surrogate 
 socket so I can swap the tubes without stressing the pins.

A ZIF nixie socket!  Now that would be quite a thing!  That would also dodge 
the usual problem in home-made sockets of having the grippers both float and 
exert proper tension, by moving the tensioning function elsewhere.  Time to 
start scribbling and thinking about milling out some interesting shapes.

- John

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Re: [neonixie-l] IN-18 gone bad.

2014-01-23 Thread Ron Schuster
 [I learned the hard way on some of my earliest clocks regarding current 
limiting resistors. :S] 


  Could you please elaborate on what you were referring to here? 

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Re: [neonixie-l] IN-18 gone bad.

2014-01-23 Thread AntiqueSounds
Zero Insertion Force (ZIF) 
 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zero_insertion_force) sockets for nixies 
would be SWEET!  

On Thursday, January 23, 2014 9:47:36 AM UTC-5, Ron Schuster wrote:

  [I learned the hard way on some of my earliest clocks regarding current 
 limiting resistors. :S] 


  Could you please elaborate on what you were referring to here? 


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Re: [neonixie-l] IN-18 gone bad.

2014-01-23 Thread Dan Hollis

I would definitely pay for ZIF IN-18 sockets :)

-Dan

On Thu, 23 Jan 2014, John Rehwinkel wrote:


I caused it because I was swapping the tubes too much. The repeated 
removal/insertions caused the tube to leak at the pins.

I still want to rotate the tubes, but I need to come up with a surrogate socket 
so I can swap the tubes without stressing the pins.


A ZIF nixie socket!  Now that would be quite a thing!  That would also dodge 
the usual problem in home-made sockets of having the grippers both float and 
exert proper tension, by moving the tensioning function elsewhere.  Time to 
start scribbling and thinking about milling out some interesting shapes.

- John

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Re: [neonixie-l] IN-18 gone bad.

2014-01-22 Thread John Rehwinkel
 One of the IN-18s in my Nixichron has started to fail. I don't know if it's 
 cathode poisoning or some other failure mode.
  
 In the 10's hours position, several of the digits are not lighting 
 completely, they are dark toward the bottom of the tube, probably the bottom 
 1/3 of the numeral.

Sounds like cathode poisoning.

  This happened rather suddenly, or at least I only noticed it recently. The 
 1 digit is fine, and that's what is lit most of the time. The other digits 
 only come into play during display of the GPS coordinates every 1/4 hour. As 
 they scroll across the clock, I can see the bad digits.

Yeah, cathode poisoning happens when not all the digits are used enough.

 I do have a couple spare tubes, but they have no hours on them. I'll try one 
 to be certain it's just the tube. But I'd actually like to find a used tube, 
 something with several years worth of use on it, so the brightness will be a 
 better match.

It's worth trying to depoison that one.  The easy way is to swap it with one of 
the other digits that gets used more evenly.  The quick way is to run those 
other digits for a bit a higher-than-normal current until they light fully 
again.

- John

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Re: [neonixie-l] IN-18 gone bad.

2014-01-22 Thread Adam Jacobs
  This is an issue that is most obvious on clocks with lots of 
functionality. If there are different modes/menus that display numerals 
on a tube that are not normally lit as part of the clock, then you'll 
see this. Best advice is to take full advantage of automated 
cathode-poisoning prevention routines.
  Clocks that don't have any menus, i.e. they don't ever display a 
numeral on a tube that wouldn't be displayed as part of the standard 
clock, still have this problem but it's not anywhere near as obvious.
For example: If the 10-minutes tube only ever displays 0-5 in the course 
of being a clock and I don't have any additional menus or modes that 
might try to display something besides those values, then the critical 
poisoning of 6-9 doesn't matter to me.


John is right. Try to repair the cathode poisoning if it is still fairly 
mild. I've had great luck in the past doing this with IN-8-2's. [I 
learned the hard way on some of my earliest clocks regarding current 
limiting resistors. :S]


-Adam

On 1/22/2014 5:36 AM, John Rehwinkel wrote:

One of the IN-18s in my Nixichron has started to fail. I don't know if it's 
cathode poisoning or some other failure mode.
  
In the 10's hours position, several of the digits are not lighting completely, they are dark toward the bottom of the tube, probably the bottom 1/3 of the numeral.

Sounds like cathode poisoning.


  This happened rather suddenly, or at least I only noticed it recently. The 
1 digit is fine, and that's what is lit most of the time. The other digits 
only come into play during display of the GPS coordinates every 1/4 hour. As they scroll 
across the clock, I can see the bad digits.

Yeah, cathode poisoning happens when not all the digits are used enough.


I do have a couple spare tubes, but they have no hours on them. I'll try one to 
be certain it's just the tube. But I'd actually like to find a used tube, 
something with several years worth of use on it, so the brightness will be a 
better match.

It's worth trying to depoison that one.  The easy way is to swap it with one of 
the other digits that gets used more evenly.  The quick way is to run those 
other digits for a bit a higher-than-normal current until they light fully 
again.

- John



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Re: [neonixie-l] IN-18 gone bad.

2014-01-22 Thread Gene Mark Segal
You're all wrong, it's leaking gas through the pins. 

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jan 22, 2014, at 7:27 AM, Adam Jacobs jacobs.a...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  This is an issue that is most obvious on clocks with lots of functionality. 
 If there are different modes/menus that display numerals on a tube that are 
 not normally lit as part of the clock, then you'll see this. Best advice is 
 to take full advantage of automated cathode-poisoning prevention routines.
  Clocks that don't have any menus, i.e. they don't ever display a numeral on 
 a tube that wouldn't be displayed as part of the standard clock, still have 
 this problem but it's not anywhere near as obvious.
 For example: If the 10-minutes tube only ever displays 0-5 in the course of 
 being a clock and I don't have any additional menus or modes that might try 
 to display something besides those values, then the critical poisoning of 6-9 
 doesn't matter to me.
 
 John is right. Try to repair the cathode poisoning if it is still fairly 
 mild. I've had great luck in the past doing this with IN-8-2's. [I learned 
 the hard way on some of my earliest clocks regarding current limiting 
 resistors. :S]
 
 -Adam
 
 On 1/22/2014 5:36 AM, John Rehwinkel wrote:
 One of the IN-18s in my Nixichron has started to fail. I don't know if it's 
 cathode poisoning or some other failure mode.
  In the 10's hours position, several of the digits are not lighting 
 completely, they are dark toward the bottom of the tube, probably the 
 bottom 1/3 of the numeral.
 Sounds like cathode poisoning.
 
  This happened rather suddenly, or at least I only noticed it recently. The 
 1 digit is fine, and that's what is lit most of the time. The other 
 digits only come into play during display of the GPS coordinates every 1/4 
 hour. As they scroll across the clock, I can see the bad digits.
 Yeah, cathode poisoning happens when not all the digits are used enough.
 
 I do have a couple spare tubes, but they have no hours on them. I'll try 
 one to be certain it's just the tube. But I'd actually like to find a used 
 tube, something with several years worth of use on it, so the brightness 
 will be a better match.
 It's worth trying to depoison that one.  The easy way is to swap it with one 
 of the other digits that gets used more evenly.  The quick way is to run 
 those other digits for a bit a higher-than-normal current until they light 
 fully again.
 
 - John
 
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Re: [neonixie-l] IN-18 gone bad.

2014-01-22 Thread Terry S
Gene, please explain how you know this is the case.
 
Thanks
 
Terry
 

On Wednesday, January 22, 2014 9:30:40 AM UTC-6, Gene Segal wrote:

 You're all wrong, it's leaking gas through the pins. 

 Sent from my iPhone 

  On Jan 22, 2014, at 7:27 AM, Adam Jacobs jacob...@gmail.comjavascript: 
 wrote: 
  
   This is an issue that is most obvious on clocks with lots of 
 functionality. If there are different modes/menus that display numerals on 
 a tube that are not normally lit as part of the clock, then you'll see 
 this. Best advice is to take full advantage of automated cathode-poisoning 
 prevention routines. 
   Clocks that don't have any menus, i.e. they don't ever display a 
 numeral on a tube that wouldn't be displayed as part of the standard clock, 
 still have this problem but it's not anywhere near as obvious. 
  For example: If the 10-minutes tube only ever displays 0-5 in the course 
 of being a clock and I don't have any additional menus or modes that might 
 try to display something besides those values, then the critical poisoning 
 of 6-9 doesn't matter to me. 
  
  John is right. Try to repair the cathode poisoning if it is still fairly 
 mild. I've had great luck in the past doing this with IN-8-2's. [I learned 
 the hard way on some of my earliest clocks regarding current limiting 
 resistors. :S] 
  
  -Adam 
  
  On 1/22/2014 5:36 AM, John Rehwinkel wrote: 
  One of the IN-18s in my Nixichron has started to fail. I don't know if 
 it's cathode poisoning or some other failure mode. 
   In the 10's hours position, several of the digits are not lighting 
 completely, they are dark toward the bottom of the tube, probably the 
 bottom 1/3 of the numeral. 
  Sounds like cathode poisoning. 
  
   This happened rather suddenly, or at least I only noticed it 
 recently. The 1 digit is fine, and that's what is lit most of the time. 
 The other digits only come into play during display of the GPS coordinates 
 every 1/4 hour. As they scroll across the clock, I can see the bad digits. 
  Yeah, cathode poisoning happens when not all the digits are used 
 enough. 
  
  I do have a couple spare tubes, but they have no hours on them. I'll 
 try one to be certain it's just the tube. But I'd actually like to find a 
 used tube, something with several years worth of use on it, so the 
 brightness will be a better match. 
  It's worth trying to depoison that one.  The easy way is to swap it 
 with one of the other digits that gets used more evenly.  The quick way is 
 to run those other digits for a bit a higher-than-normal current until they 
 light fully again. 
  
  - John 
  
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 Groups neonixie-l group. 
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Re: [neonixie-l] IN-18 gone bad.

2014-01-22 Thread Gene Mark Segal
When you have a sudden performance issue, it's gas. Especially when large 
sections of large-area cathodes go dim. Poisoning from sputtering affects small 
sections and is observed over longer periods of time. I'll bet that tube will 
start going pink soon. 

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jan 22, 2014, at 7:41 AM, Terry S tschw10...@aol.com wrote:
 
 Gene, please explain how you know this is the case.
  
 Thanks
  
 Terry
  
 
 On Wednesday, January 22, 2014 9:30:40 AM UTC-6, Gene Segal wrote:
 You're all wrong, it's leaking gas through the pins. 
 
 Sent from my iPhone 
 
  On Jan 22, 2014, at 7:27 AM, Adam Jacobs jacob...@gmail.com wrote: 
  
   This is an issue that is most obvious on clocks with lots of 
  functionality. If there are different modes/menus that display numerals on 
  a tube that are not normally lit as part of the clock, then you'll see 
  this. Best advice is to take full advantage of automated cathode-poisoning 
  prevention routines. 
   Clocks that don't have any menus, i.e. they don't ever display a numeral 
  on a tube that wouldn't be displayed as part of the standard clock, still 
  have this problem but it's not anywhere near as obvious. 
  For example: If the 10-minutes tube only ever displays 0-5 in the course 
  of being a clock and I don't have any additional menus or modes that might 
  try to display something besides those values, then the critical poisoning 
  of 6-9 doesn't matter to me. 
  
  John is right. Try to repair the cathode poisoning if it is still fairly 
  mild. I've had great luck in the past doing this with IN-8-2's. [I learned 
  the hard way on some of my earliest clocks regarding current limiting 
  resistors. :S] 
  
  -Adam 
  
  On 1/22/2014 5:36 AM, John Rehwinkel wrote: 
  One of the IN-18s in my Nixichron has started to fail. I don't know if 
  it's cathode poisoning or some other failure mode. 
   In the 10's hours position, several of the digits are not lighting 
  completely, they are dark toward the bottom of the tube, probably the 
  bottom 1/3 of the numeral. 
  Sounds like cathode poisoning. 
  
   This happened rather suddenly, or at least I only noticed it recently. 
  The 1 digit is fine, and that's what is lit most of the time. The 
  other digits only come into play during display of the GPS coordinates 
  every 1/4 hour. As they scroll across the clock, I can see the bad 
  digits. 
  Yeah, cathode poisoning happens when not all the digits are used enough. 
  
  I do have a couple spare tubes, but they have no hours on them. I'll try 
  one to be certain it's just the tube. But I'd actually like to find a 
  used tube, something with several years worth of use on it, so the 
  brightness will be a better match. 
  It's worth trying to depoison that one.  The easy way is to swap it with 
  one of the other digits that gets used more evenly.  The quick way is to 
  run those other digits for a bit a higher-than-normal current until they 
  light fully again. 
  
  - John 
  
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Re: [neonixie-l] IN-18 gone bad.

2014-01-22 Thread Terry S
Thanks Gene -- I'll keep an eye on it and let you know.
 
Terry
 

On Wednesday, January 22, 2014 9:56:13 AM UTC-6, Gene Segal wrote:

 When you have a sudden performance issue, it's gas. Especially when large 
 sections of large-area cathodes go dim. Poisoning from sputtering affects 
 small sections and is observed over longer periods of time. I'll bet that 
 tube will start going pink soon. 

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Jan 22, 2014, at 7:41 AM, Terry S tschw...@aol.com javascript: 
 wrote:

 Gene, please explain how you know this is the case.
  
 Thanks
  
 Terry
  

 On Wednesday, January 22, 2014 9:30:40 AM UTC-6, Gene Segal wrote:

 You're all wrong, it's leaking gas through the pins. 

 Sent from my iPhone 

  On Jan 22, 2014, at 7:27 AM, Adam Jacobs jacob...@gmail.com wrote: 
  
   This is an issue that is most obvious on clocks with lots of 
 functionality. If there are different modes/menus that display numerals on 
 a tube that are not normally lit as part of the clock, then you'll see 
 this. Best advice is to take full advantage of automated cathode-poisoning 
 prevention routines. 
   Clocks that don't have any menus, i.e. they don't ever display a 
 numeral on a tube that wouldn't be displayed as part of the standard clock, 
 still have this problem but it's not anywhere near as obvious. 
  For example: If the 10-minutes tube only ever displays 0-5 in the 
 course of being a clock and I don't have any additional menus or modes that 
 might try to display something besides those values, then the critical 
 poisoning of 6-9 doesn't matter to me. 
  
  John is right. Try to repair the cathode poisoning if it is still 
 fairly mild. I've had great luck in the past doing this with IN-8-2's. [I 
 learned the hard way on some of my earliest clocks regarding current 
 limiting resistors. :S] 
  
  -Adam 
  
  On 1/22/2014 5:36 AM, John Rehwinkel wrote: 
  One of the IN-18s in my Nixichron has started to fail. I don't know 
 if it's cathode poisoning or some other failure mode. 
   In the 10's hours position, several of the digits are not lighting 
 completely, they are dark toward the bottom of the tube, probably the 
 bottom 1/3 of the numeral. 
  Sounds like cathode poisoning. 
  
   This happened rather suddenly, or at least I only noticed it 
 recently. The 1 digit is fine, and that's what is lit most of the time. 
 The other digits only come into play during display of the GPS coordinates 
 every 1/4 hour. As they scroll across the clock, I can see the bad digits. 
  Yeah, cathode poisoning happens when not all the digits are used 
 enough. 
  
  I do have a couple spare tubes, but they have no hours on them. I'll 
 try one to be certain it's just the tube. But I'd actually like to find a 
 used tube, something with several years worth of use on it, so the 
 brightness will be a better match. 
  It's worth trying to depoison that one.  The easy way is to swap it 
 with one of the other digits that gets used more evenly.  The quick way is 
 to run those other digits for a bit a higher-than-normal current until they 
 light fully again. 
  
  - John 
  
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Re: [neonixie-l] IN-18 gone bad.

2014-01-22 Thread Dan Hollis
Yep, this exactly happened to me. A tube suddenly started having problems 
lighting some digits. Then eventually it stopped working altogether.


I caused it because I was swapping the tubes too much. The repeated 
removal/insertions caused the tube to leak at the pins.


I still want to rotate the tubes, but I need to come up with a surrogate 
socket so I can swap the tubes without stressing the pins.


-Dan

On Wed, 22 Jan 2014, Gene Mark Segal wrote:


You're all wrong, it's leaking gas through the pins.

Sent from my iPhone


On Jan 22, 2014, at 7:27 AM, Adam Jacobs jacobs.a...@gmail.com wrote:

 This is an issue that is most obvious on clocks with lots of functionality. If 
there are different modes/menus that display numerals on a tube that are not 
normally lit as part of the clock, then you'll see this. Best advice is to take 
full advantage of automated cathode-poisoning prevention routines.
 Clocks that don't have any menus, i.e. they don't ever display a numeral on a 
tube that wouldn't be displayed as part of the standard clock, still have this 
problem but it's not anywhere near as obvious.
For example: If the 10-minutes tube only ever displays 0-5 in the course of 
being a clock and I don't have any additional menus or modes that might try to 
display something besides those values, then the critical poisoning of 6-9 
doesn't matter to me.

John is right. Try to repair the cathode poisoning if it is still fairly mild. 
I've had great luck in the past doing this with IN-8-2's. [I learned the hard 
way on some of my earliest clocks regarding current limiting resistors. :S]

-Adam

On 1/22/2014 5:36 AM, John Rehwinkel wrote:

One of the IN-18s in my Nixichron has started to fail. I don't know if it's 
cathode poisoning or some other failure mode.
 In the 10's hours position, several of the digits are not lighting completely, 
they are dark toward the bottom of the tube, probably the bottom 1/3 of the 
numeral.

Sounds like cathode poisoning.


 This happened rather suddenly, or at least I only noticed it recently. The 1 
digit is fine, and that's what is lit most of the time. The other digits only come into 
play during display of the GPS coordinates every 1/4 hour. As they scroll across the 
clock, I can see the bad digits.

Yeah, cathode poisoning happens when not all the digits are used enough.


I do have a couple spare tubes, but they have no hours on them. I'll try one to 
be certain it's just the tube. But I'd actually like to find a used tube, 
something with several years worth of use on it, so the brightness will be a 
better match.

It's worth trying to depoison that one.  The easy way is to swap it with one of 
the other digits that gets used more evenly.  The quick way is to run those 
other digits for a bit a higher-than-normal current until they light fully 
again.

- John


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