[Nighthawk Lovers] Stripped oil pan (85' CB650SC)

[Gibs]

  So I did what I said I was gonna do and brought my bike in to 
this guy who basically charges you $35 an hr for labor as you watch him 
work on your bike (and explains everything as he goes along). Turns out the 
battery is actually charging contrary to what the first guy I brought it to 
said. Went over the brakes again (turns out I did everything just fine), 
and switched out the clutch fluid as well. It shifts better now, but is 
still clunky. Also my oil pan is stripped, which I knew before as it was 
leaking *slightly* since I got the oil changed the first time. We looked at 
it together this time, drained it into a clean container, and tried adding 
some teflon tape stuff and he put on an o ring to try to seal the bolt it a 
little better. Now it's leaking worse :( He was talking about using this 
helicoil kit to fix it. I looked on ebay and found replacement oil pans for 
less than $50, the only issue is finding a new gasket for it is tricky... 
What can I do to fix this leaking oil pan?? Got so frustrated tonight 
because it's pretty much unridable until I solve this. Should I just go 
with a replacement oil pan? What do I do about the gasket? Can I use the 
one that is currently on the bike (can't imagine it being in usable 
condition once I take the current oil pan off)? I read about these rubber 
drain bolts, but they seem risky... 
  Thanks again for any help!

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Supplier suggestions for modding my1984 650 greatly appreciated

[Gibs]

Welcome fellow newbie :) 
I've been using bikebandit.com and ebay for most of my ordering. Nice 
looking 650 btw I got my self an 85' 650. 

On Monday, August 27, 2012 8:41:46 PM UTC-4, Joshua McCanless wrote:
>
> Hello all! I am new to the group and a novice/newbie/greenhorn rider. 
> I recently bought an 84 Nighthawk 650 and I'm looking to do a little 
> modification to the bike. It's in pretty darn good condition except for the 
> paint job and the turn signals being cracked and waterproofed with 
> electrical tape. LOL!
> I'm looking for some suppliers that you guys have used before and you have 
> been satisfied with their service and parts. 
> Also, how do I post a pic of my bike on this group?
> Any suggestions are welcome and appreciated. :D

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Put my 750 Magna up for sale

[Paul]

Thanks :-)

Sent from my Xoom Tablet (which explains the typos)
On Aug 27, 2012 2:10 PM,  wrote:

> That is an awfully purdy bike.[image: :-)]
>
>
>  -Original Message-
> From: Paul 
> To: nighthawk_lovers 
> Sent: Mon, Aug 27, 2012 1:38 pm
> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Put my 750 Magna up for sale
>
>  Personally I'm not into the bumblebee look :-)
> Sent from my Xoom Tablet (which explains the typos)
> On Aug 27, 2012 10:06 AM, "Joey Kelley"  wrote:
>
>> H.
>>Now I just need to figure a way to fly out there (or take a
>> bus) buy it and ride it back Hm. Or I could pick up one about 3.5
>> hours away and ride that home.
>> http://maine.craigslist.org/mcy/3210721858.html
>> :-)
>>   -Joey
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 23, 2012 at 11:50 PM, Paul LeBoutillier 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> *On Thu, Aug 23, 2012 at 9:35 PM, Allen Thomas 
>>>  wrote:
>>> *
>>>
 *Why? I thought you liked it.*
>>>
>>>  *
>>>
>>>  I do! It's fun to ride and runs great. :)
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>>  Paul LeBoutillier
>>> p...@ccontario.com
>>> www.ccontario.com
>>> *May the God of hope fill you with *
>>> *all joy and peace as you trust in him, *
>>> *so that you may overflow with hope *
>>> *by the power of the Holy Spirit. Romans 15:13*
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>  --
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>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>  --
>> -Joey Kelley
>> JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
>> JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
>> JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers]

[Paul]

Looks nice Joshua! Yeah, the seat looks a bit homemade but I bet it's a
huge improvement over one that was all slashed up.

Paul

Sent from my Xoom Tablet (which explains the typos)
On Aug 27, 2012 6:55 PM, "Joshua McCanless"  wrote:

> Here she is. We haven't named her yet, but that will come soon.
> This is my first bike and I'm so glad I got the one I wanted.
> She has around 20k miles on her and I just got new tires and a "new" seat
> put on, as the old one was sliced up the day before i bought her. Some
> people...(shakes head)
> The seat was one made by an old guy I found on ebay. To be honest, I'm not
> really impressed with the quality, but I guess I shouldn't expect much from
> a $35 seat.
> I just ordered a replacement dipstick as the original one fell out on the
> highway and there's just a bolt in the hole now! LOL!
> I'm curious about any inherent flaws and bugs the 650 may have and any
> advice and suggestions about how to fix/replace/remedy them would be
> awesome!
>
> --
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Got a free bike today

[Allen Thomas]

Yea they are nice the 750, 850, and 1000 are virtually the same bike.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-Original Message-
From: Graham Rogers 
Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 20:19:23 
To: 
Reply-To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Got a free bike today

Fortunately, many of the parts are the same on the GS models - brakes, front 
forks, which you'll need.

On Aug 27, 2012, at 8:06 PM, Jason King wrote:

> No parting here its going to be my cruiser!
> 
> On Aug 27, 2012 6:50 PM, "Kurt Nolte"  wrote:
> If you guys part, I'd love the headlight assembly.
> 
> Awesome that it seems to be front and rear discs, too. In '78!
> 
> -Kurt
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] The Great CB650SC update

[Kurt Nolte]

My update for this is... I have a lathe now. The bushings will no longer be
a problem. That shop bill ballooned to $150, I guess because they really
didn't want to cut bushings. I said "no thank you" and took my parts back.

-Kurt

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers]

[Kurt Nolte]

Looks good! I'm working on a 650 myself, but there are SIGNIFICANT
modifications going on with it. You'll see, next time I have progress to
report. Speaking of which...

-Kurt

On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 8:55 PM, Joshua McCanless wrote:

> Here she is. We haven't named her yet, but that will come soon.
> This is my first bike and I'm so glad I got the one I wanted.
> She has around 20k miles on her and I just got new tires and a "new" seat
> put on, as the old one was sliced up the day before i bought her. Some
> people...(shakes head)
> The seat was one made by an old guy I found on ebay. To be honest, I'm not
> really impressed with the quality, but I guess I shouldn't expect much from
> a $35 seat.
> I just ordered a replacement dipstick as the original one fell out on the
> highway and there's just a bolt in the hole now! LOL!
> I'm curious about any inherent flaws and bugs the 650 may have and any
> advice and suggestions about how to fix/replace/remedy them would be
> awesome!
>
> --
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> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Got a free bike today

[Joey Kelley]

Sorry - you're not getting the ones off my 1000 - they're in use :-)

On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 8:38 PM, Allen Thomas  wrote:
> Sweet, got any fork tubes?
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
> 
> From: Graham Rogers 
> Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 20:11:30 -0400
> To: 
> ReplyTo: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Got a free bike today
>
> I think I have some parts that fit that bike Allen. I like that style/model,
> Graham
>
> On Aug 27, 2012, at 6:18 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:
>
> She is rough.
> https://picasaweb.google.com/102601857000444202563/1978GS750RustyBucket
>
>
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>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Got a free bike today

[Graham Rogers]

No, sorry Allen/Jason

On Aug 27, 2012, at 8:38 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:

> Sweet, got any fork tubes?
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
> From: Graham Rogers 
> Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 20:11:30 -0400
> To: 
> ReplyTo: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Got a free bike today
> 
> I think I have some parts that fit that bike Allen. I like that style/model, 
> Graham
> 
> On Aug 27, 2012, at 6:18 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:
> 
>> She is rough.
>> https://picasaweb.google.com/102601857000444202563/1978GS750RustyBucket
>>  
>> 
>> -- 
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> 
> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Supplier suggestions for modding my1984 650 greatly appreciated

[Paul]

*Hi Joshua! Welcome to the group!*
*
*
*As for as posting pictures, just attach (or embed) a picture in an email
and address it to nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com. This is the easiest
way to get a photo out to the whole group.*
*
*
*Or, you can upload a picture to a service like Google+ or someone other
online service that allows you to send a link to the picture.*
*
*
*Looking forward to seeing your 650!*
*
*
*Paul
*
*

Paul LeBoutillier *
*www.hondanighthawks.net*



On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 6:41 PM, Joshua McCanless wrote:

> Hello all! I am new to the group and a novice/newbie/greenhorn rider.
> I recently bought an 84 Nighthawk 650 and I'm looking to do a little
> modification to the bike. It's in pretty darn good condition except for the
> paint job and the turn signals being cracked and waterproofed with
> electrical tape. LOL!
> I'm looking for some suppliers that you guys have used before and you have
> been satisfied with their service and parts.
> Also, how do I post a pic of my bike on this group?
> Any suggestions are welcome and appreciated. :D
>
> --
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>
>

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Supplier suggestions for modding my1984 650 greatly appreciated

[Joshua McCanless]

Hello all! I am new to the group and a novice/newbie/greenhorn rider. 
I recently bought an 84 Nighthawk 650 and I'm looking to do a little 
modification to the bike. It's in pretty darn good condition except for the 
paint job and the turn signals being cracked and waterproofed with electrical 
tape. LOL!
I'm looking for some suppliers that you guys have used before and you have been 
satisfied with their service and parts. 
Also, how do I post a pic of my bike on this group?
Any suggestions are welcome and appreciated. :D

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Got a free bike today

[Allen Thomas]

Sweet, got any fork tubes?
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-Original Message-
From: Graham Rogers 
Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 20:11:30 
To: 
Reply-To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Got a free bike today

I think I have some parts that fit that bike Allen. I like that style/model, 
Graham

On Aug 27, 2012, at 6:18 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:

> She is rough.
> https://picasaweb.google.com/102601857000444202563/1978GS750RustyBucket
>  
> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Got a free bike today

[Graham Rogers]

Fortunately, many of the parts are the same on the GS models - brakes, front 
forks, which you'll need.

On Aug 27, 2012, at 8:06 PM, Jason King wrote:

> No parting here its going to be my cruiser!
> 
> On Aug 27, 2012 6:50 PM, "Kurt Nolte"  wrote:
> If you guys part, I'd love the headlight assembly.
> 
> Awesome that it seems to be front and rear discs, too. In '78!
> 
> -Kurt
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Got a free bike today

[Graham Rogers]

I think I have some parts that fit that bike Allen. I like that style/model, 
Graham

On Aug 27, 2012, at 6:18 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:

> She is rough.
> https://picasaweb.google.com/102601857000444202563/1978GS750RustyBucket
>  
> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Got a free bike today

[Jason King]

No parting here its going to be my cruiser!
On Aug 27, 2012 6:50 PM, "Kurt Nolte"  wrote:

> If you guys part, I'd love the headlight assembly.
>
> Awesome that it seems to be front and rear discs, too. In '78!
>
> -Kurt
>
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Got a free bike today

[Kurt Nolte]

If you guys part, I'd love the headlight assembly.

Awesome that it seems to be front and rear discs, too. In '78!

-Kurt

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: No Kill Switch

[Jurisgnostic]

On my part, I have more than once hung my helmet on the handlebar only to 
be unable to start my bike when I got back on it.  D'0h!

On Monday, August 27, 2012 10:35:46 AM UTC-7, jaybird248 wrote:
>
> In contrast to others on this group, I don't use the kill switch. It would 
> be too easy to forget to also turn the key off and to return to a dead 
> battery drained by the headlight. Not that it's *never *been used. When I 
> first joined my rider club, I returned from lunch with the group to find a 
> dead bike. Turned over but didn't fire. Of course, everyone else was 
> mounted up, ready to go.  I panicked, of course, until one guy walked 
> casually to my bike, and flipped the kill button on, as everyone else 
> guffawed. It was a little trick they play on new members. 
> Haven't used it since, though. On my own bike, that is. 
>
> Jay S
> 92 NH750
> South Florida
>

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Got a free bike today

[Allen Thomas]

In Md if you can track down the last title holder and get them to sign a 
release form you can get it re-issued. Also there are places that can register 
it out of state and send you a new title for a fee.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-Original Message-
From: paul annen 
Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 18:30:52 
To: 
Reply-To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Got a free bike today

she would be great for parts.. (florida its next to impossable to get a
title for her).. and you paid a great price!!!

On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 6:18 PM, Allen Thomas  wrote:

> She is rough.
> https://picasaweb.google.com/102601857000444202563/1978GS750RustyBucket
>
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Got a free bike today

[Allen Thomas]

Don't know yet, Jason's got dibbs on it. Though I'd like to steal the wire 
wheels.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-Original Message-
From: Kurt Nolte 
Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 18:22:26 
To: 
Reply-To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Got a free bike today

That is rough. Parting out or restoring?

Kurt
On Aug 27, 2012 6:18 PM, "Allen Thomas"  wrote:

> She is rough.
> https://picasaweb.google.com/102601857000444202563/1978GS750RustyBucket
>
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Got a free bike today

[paul annen]

she would be great for parts.. (florida its next to impossable to get a
title for her).. and you paid a great price!!!

On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 6:18 PM, Allen Thomas  wrote:

> She is rough.
> https://picasaweb.google.com/102601857000444202563/1978GS750RustyBucket
>
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Got a free bike today

[Kurt Nolte]

That is rough. Parting out or restoring?

Kurt
On Aug 27, 2012 6:18 PM, "Allen Thomas"  wrote:

> She is rough.
> https://picasaweb.google.com/102601857000444202563/1978GS750RustyBucket
>
>
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[Nighthawk Lovers] Got a free bike today

[Allen Thomas]

She is rough.
https://picasaweb.google.com/102601857000444202563/1978GS750RustyBucket

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: My first 'on the road' failure

[surfswab]

I don't either.  I think it's an old guy thing, from before bikes had
kill switches.  And start buttons.  And kickstand switches.  And vac
op petcocks (!)

On Aug 27, 11:22 am, Graham Rogers  wrote:
> I never use the kill switch.
>
> On Aug 27, 2012, at 10:10 AM, Joey Kelley wrote:
>
>
>
> > Am I the only one (based upon Allen's and my Dad's comments yesterday)
> > that automatically and with reflex hits the kill switch every time I
> > get off the bike? Even when I'm going to shut the key off?
> >             -Joey
>
> > On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 10:07 AM, Allen Thomas  
> > wrote:
> >> The last time we rode up to Graham's house I inadvertently hit the kill 
> >> switch, of course I was the tail gunner, and Javier and Jason just kept 
> >> getting on it. I figured it out rather quickly though thoughts of a tow 
> >> 100+ miles went through my mind.
> >> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
> >> -Original Message-
> >> From: Joey Kelley 
> >> Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> >> Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 09:47:43
> >> To: 
> >> Reply-To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> >> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] My first 'on the road' failure
>
> >> All,
> >>    For the first time yesterday I experienced a failure on the bike, mid 
> >> ride.
> >>    Background: Dad and I took off on a 250 mile road trip yesterday,
> >> from the general Bangor, Maine area to the town of Jackman, ME.
> >> Jackman is the last town before the Canadian border when heading
> >> Northwest out of the state of Maine.
> >>    As we were beginning the ride home, we were blasting up a hill
> >> when all of a sudden, the 1000 just quit. No backfiring, no weird
> >> running just stopped. Like I'd hit the kill switch.
> >>    As soon as I got over to the side of the road, I did the normal
> >> troubleshooting - the starter wouldn't crank, turning the key on and
> >> off didn't help. I immediately figured it was electrical, since if it
> >> had been anything else the failure wouldn't have been so abrupt. Dad
> >> stopped, circled around and was immediately concerned as soon as he
> >> saw me with the bike in the dirt on the side of the road. The good
> >> news was - with my handy leatherman, I already had the side panel off
> >> and had found the issue.
> >>     The ignition fuse had literally vibrated its way out of the
> >> holder. It was half in, half out and had slid about a half inch
> >> towards the rear of the bike. I slid the fuse back in and with Dad's
> >> suggestion used the pliers part of the leatherman to give a quick
> >> retightening of all the fuse holding clips then simply turned the key
> >> and kill switch back on and the bike fired back up.
> >>      Phew! 125 miles from home was not when I wanted to have
> >> something like this happen - but at the same time at least it was
> >> minor.
> >>      This is the first time either of my two bikes have scared me
> >> like this - but at least it was minor.
> >>      Two comments for you all: Carry a leatherman at all times and
> >> check your fuse holders!
> >>       -Joey
> >> PS: It's actually a Stanley brand multi-tool I carry, but I use a
> >> leatherman pouch since they are more rugged:
> >>http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=NEW%5FPROD%5FKNIVES&;...
>
> >> --
> >> -Joey Kelley
> >> JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
> >> JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
> >> JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow
>
> >> --
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>
> > --
> > -Joey Kelley
> > JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
> > JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
> > JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Put my 750 Magna up for sale

[mike21222]

That is an awfully purdy bike.
 

 

-Original Message-
From: Paul 
To: nighthawk_lovers 
Sent: Mon, Aug 27, 2012 1:38 pm
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Put my 750 Magna up for sale


Personally I'm not into the bumblebee look :-) 
Sent from my Xoom Tablet (which explains the typos)
On Aug 27, 2012 10:06 AM, "Joey Kelley"  wrote:

H.
   Now I just need to figure a way to fly out there (or take a bus) buy 
it and ride it back Hm. Or I could pick up one about 3.5 hours away and 
ride that home. http://maine.craigslist.org/mcy/3210721858.html 
:-)
  -Joey


On Thu, Aug 23, 2012 at 11:50 PM, Paul LeBoutillier  wrote:

On Thu, Aug 23, 2012 at 9:35 PM, Allen Thomas  wrote:

Why? I thought you liked it.



I do! It's fun to ride and runs great. :)





Paul LeBoutillier 
p...@ccontario.com
www.ccontario.com
May the God of hope fill you with 
all joy and peace as you trust in him, 
so that you may overflow with hope 
by the power of the Holy Spirit. Romans 15:13









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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: changing brake fluid?

[Joey Kelley]

I feel like I need to Pad this comment with one of my own.
 The caliper of this thread is questionable.
  Personally, I think we should keep the conversation as fluid
as possible.
   -Joey

On Fri, Aug 24, 2012 at 11:28 AM, Graham Rogers
 wrote:
> last week I was changing the brake fluid on a bike and got some in my mouth
> (don't ask!).  It tasted terrible but the second time it happened I thought
> what the heck and just swallowed it.  Well for a week now I've been sipping
> the stuff and it's not bad.  My wife got real concerned when I told her but
> I told her I could stop any time 
> Graham
>
> On Aug 24, 2012, at 11:08 AM, Kurt Nolte wrote:
>
> It'll get you every time!
>
> On Aug 24, 2012 10:11 AM, "Allen Thomas"  wrote:
>>
>> Oops, you're right, it was in the fine print.
>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>> 
>> From: Graham Rogers 
>> Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 09:54:27 -0400
>> To: 
>> ReplyTo: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: changing brake fluid?
>>
>> are you sure Allen?  I have never seen a gal container of Shell Rotella T
>> 15w-40 that didn't have that on the reverse side.
>>
>> On Aug 24, 2012, at 9:45 AM, Allen Thomas wrote:
>>
>> The bottle I just bought didn't have that on the label. Must have been an
>> older jug. It does list it as such on the website.
>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>> 
>> From: Graham Rogers 
>> Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 09:11:39 -0400
>> To: 
>> ReplyTo: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: changing brake fluid?
>>
>> and it's certified JASO MA (for motorcycles)
>>
>> On Aug 24, 2012, at 6:48 AM, Allen Thomas wrote:
>>
>> Shell Rotella T 15w40 diesel oil. It's cheap, sold everywhere, and lots of
>> people use it with good success.
>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>> 
>> From: Givon Shayevitz 
>> Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 02:54:59 -0400
>> To: 
>> ReplyTo: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: changing brake fluid?
>>
>> Yea my clymer says it shouldn't be done unless the brakes feel "spongy" or
>> something along those lines. Also I know oil discussion seems to be taboo
>> here lol, but what oil do you suggest for an average, none extreme climate?
>>
>> On Aug 24, 2012 2:14 AM, "brian lindsley"  wrote:
>>>
>>> My book for the 700 nighthawk says to do it every two years or
>>> 24,000Miles.
>>>
>>> hope this helps
>>>
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>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

[Jason King]

Bad ground! Graham check and clean the grounds.
On Aug 27, 2012 3:24 PM, "Joey Kelley"  wrote:

> Graham,
>   I'd still pull them and check the harness - can't hurt - but
> if that is the case, you have a break in a wire or another disconnect
> somewhere between the plug in for the signals and where the power
> comes from.
>  -Joey
>
> On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 3:21 PM, Graham Rogers
>  wrote:
> > all the turn signals work when tested on a battery
> >
> > On Aug 27, 2012, at 3:14 PM, Joey Kelley wrote:
> >
> >> Graham,
> >> Dumb question - if you pull the turn signals out and
> >> separate them from the harness - do you have power at the appropriate
> >> wires there? If you do, its in the socket or the wires leading to it.
> >> If not, your break is between that point in the harness and the rest
> >> of the harness.
> >> -Joey
> >>
> >> On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 3:04 PM, Graham Rogers
> >>  wrote:
> >>> thanks Ross,  I already thought of that
> >>>
> >>> On Aug 27, 2012, at 1:13 PM, Ross M. Jamison wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Graham,
> >>> Check to see that there are NO LED bulbs installed. Led & incandescent
> will
> >>> not work together. You can make them but you will need a resistor
> between
> >>> the led & power source.
> >>>
> >>> Thank you,
> >>>
> >>> Ross M. Jamison
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>
> >>> On Aug 27, 2012, at 8:25 AM, Graham Rogers  >
> >>> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> thanks Kurt,  I'll come back to it again later - I have to put my mind
> on
> >>> something else for a while, it's too boggled,  Graham
> >>>
> >>> On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:21 AM, Kurt Nolte wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Graham, to recap:
> >>>
> >>> You have swapped the relay, and you know you have four working bulbs.
> >>>
> >>> The relay supplies power to the signal switch. Internal contacts in the
> >>> switch disconnect the parking light (not supplied by the relay) and
> connect
> >>> the pathway to the proper signals side. The load of the bulbs draws a
> >>> certain amount of current through the relay, which heats up a metal
> strip.
> >>> This causes the strip to change shape, breaking the circuit. Current
> stops
> >>> flowing, the strip cools and makes the circuit to start the cycle all
> over
> >>> again.
> >>>
> >>> If you have an issue with all four signals, the problem must lie
> somewhere
> >>> upstream of the switch, including the switch itself.
> >>>
> >>> When the switch is OFF, you will read voltage at the switch from the
> relay;
> >>> the meter makes the connection and allows current to flow. If you have
> >>> voltage at the switch, try checking JUST continuity across switch
> contacts.
> >>> Unplug the wire from the relay; if it is functioning properly you'll
> just
> >>> get intermittent voltage, which isn't useful for checks.
> >>>
> >>> Kurt
> >>>
> >>> On Aug 27, 2012 8:21 AM, "Graham Rogers" 
> wrote:
> 
>  Allen,  I spent a couple of hours at it yesterday afternoon - couldn't
>  find it.  I'll try again today and report back.  It seems that I have
> 12 v
>  from the gray wire at the relay to the turn signal bulb but when I
> activate
>  the turn signal it cancels the voltage in the gray wire (which may be
> it
>  should if the gray wire carries voltage to the running lights and the
>  running lights go out when activating the turn signal). However the
> green
>  and white is not hot to the bulb when I activate the turn signal. I
> tried
>  jumping wires from the relay to various places along the wire
> harness. Just
>  give me carbs to clean instead! Graham
> 
>  On Aug 26, 2012, at 11:36 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:
> 
>  Graham, any luck on finding the bad wire?
>  Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>  
>  From: "Allen Thomas" 
>  Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:54:49 +
>  To: Nightwawk Lovers
>  ReplyTo: althomas...@gmail.com
>  Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
> 
>  That is what the givi cases are for.
>  Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>  
>  From: Kurt Nolte 
>  Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>  Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:25:24 -0400
>  To: 
>  ReplyTo: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>  Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
> 
>  You crazy lucky people and your blinker parties. I'm nine hours away.
> :/
> 
>  Javier, where do you fit the cooler on the bike? Inquiring minds...
> 
>  -Kurt
> 
>  --
>  You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
> Groups
>  "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>  To post to this group, send email to
> nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com.
>  To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
>  nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>  For more options, visit this group at
>  http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

[Joey Kelley]

Graham,
  I'd still pull them and check the harness - can't hurt - but
if that is the case, you have a break in a wire or another disconnect
somewhere between the plug in for the signals and where the power
comes from.
 -Joey

On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 3:21 PM, Graham Rogers
 wrote:
> all the turn signals work when tested on a battery
>
> On Aug 27, 2012, at 3:14 PM, Joey Kelley wrote:
>
>> Graham,
>> Dumb question - if you pull the turn signals out and
>> separate them from the harness - do you have power at the appropriate
>> wires there? If you do, its in the socket or the wires leading to it.
>> If not, your break is between that point in the harness and the rest
>> of the harness.
>> -Joey
>>
>> On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 3:04 PM, Graham Rogers
>>  wrote:
>>> thanks Ross,  I already thought of that
>>>
>>> On Aug 27, 2012, at 1:13 PM, Ross M. Jamison wrote:
>>>
>>> Graham,
>>> Check to see that there are NO LED bulbs installed. Led & incandescent will
>>> not work together. You can make them but you will need a resistor between
>>> the led & power source.
>>>
>>> Thank you,
>>>
>>> Ross M. Jamison
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Aug 27, 2012, at 8:25 AM, Graham Rogers 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> thanks Kurt,  I'll come back to it again later - I have to put my mind on
>>> something else for a while, it's too boggled,  Graham
>>>
>>> On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:21 AM, Kurt Nolte wrote:
>>>
>>> Graham, to recap:
>>>
>>> You have swapped the relay, and you know you have four working bulbs.
>>>
>>> The relay supplies power to the signal switch. Internal contacts in the
>>> switch disconnect the parking light (not supplied by the relay) and connect
>>> the pathway to the proper signals side. The load of the bulbs draws a
>>> certain amount of current through the relay, which heats up a metal strip.
>>> This causes the strip to change shape, breaking the circuit. Current stops
>>> flowing, the strip cools and makes the circuit to start the cycle all over
>>> again.
>>>
>>> If you have an issue with all four signals, the problem must lie somewhere
>>> upstream of the switch, including the switch itself.
>>>
>>> When the switch is OFF, you will read voltage at the switch from the relay;
>>> the meter makes the connection and allows current to flow. If you have
>>> voltage at the switch, try checking JUST continuity across switch contacts.
>>> Unplug the wire from the relay; if it is functioning properly you'll just
>>> get intermittent voltage, which isn't useful for checks.
>>>
>>> Kurt
>>>
>>> On Aug 27, 2012 8:21 AM, "Graham Rogers"  wrote:

 Allen,  I spent a couple of hours at it yesterday afternoon - couldn't
 find it.  I'll try again today and report back.  It seems that I have 12 v
 from the gray wire at the relay to the turn signal bulb but when I activate
 the turn signal it cancels the voltage in the gray wire (which may be it
 should if the gray wire carries voltage to the running lights and the
 running lights go out when activating the turn signal). However the green
 and white is not hot to the bulb when I activate the turn signal. I tried
 jumping wires from the relay to various places along the wire harness. Just
 give me carbs to clean instead! Graham

 On Aug 26, 2012, at 11:36 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:

 Graham, any luck on finding the bad wire?
 Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
 
 From: "Allen Thomas" 
 Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:54:49 +
 To: Nightwawk Lovers
 ReplyTo: althomas...@gmail.com
 Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

 That is what the givi cases are for.
 Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
 
 From: Kurt Nolte 
 Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
 Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:25:24 -0400
 To: 
 ReplyTo: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

 You crazy lucky people and your blinker parties. I'm nine hours away. :/

 Javier, where do you fit the cooler on the bike? Inquiring minds...

 -Kurt

 --
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
 "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
 To post to this group, send email to nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com.
 To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
 nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
 For more options, visit this group at
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 --
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 To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
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 For more options, visit this group at
>>>

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

[Ross M. Jamison]

None taken. Good info to know 

Thank you,

Ross M. Jamison
Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 27, 2012, at 1:57 PM, Kurt Nolte  wrote:

> Sorry, sometimes I launch into "lecture mode" with these things. Didn't mean 
> to offend anyone.
> 
> Kurt
> 
> On Aug 27, 2012 2:39 PM, "Ross M. Jamison"  
> wrote:
> Wow. Did I open a can of worms. All I wanted to do is have a check in 
> disparity of bulbs. I recommend we blame gremlins & have the bike excercized.
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Ross M. Jamison
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Aug 27, 2012, at 1:25 PM, Kurt Nolte  wrote:
> 
>> "ballast resistor" is the term I typically hear.
>> 
>> An LEDs output does not depend on the voltage across it, like a standard 
>> filament. Normal lights use current through a wire to make heat; light is 
>> the byproduct. Since V=IR, and the resistance is fixed, more voltage across 
>> the element gives you more current through it, thus more light.
>> 
>> An LED produces light from the interaction of electrons across a junction of 
>> two dissimilar materials. The voltage drop across the junction is fixed by 
>> properties of the junction; more voltage can damage the diode, not help it.
>> 
>> If the diode is the only draw in the circuit, current will be very HIGH, as 
>> the resistance of the wire is low and the voltage is high. "Drop in" LEDs 
>> have a VERY large resistor in series with the diode, to shed voltage down to 
>> the needed level without drawing high current.
>> 
>> Looking at it that way, the product page is correct, and my initial 
>> suggestion was bad; putting the ballast resistor pack across the terminals 
>> of the lamp unit (diode + resistor) will decrease resistance and increase 
>> current, allowing the load dependent flasher to work.
>> 
>> My comment did not assume a retail lamp, w/ resistor already in the circuit.
>> 
>> Kurt
>> 
>> On Aug 27, 2012 2:13 PM, "Ross M. Jamison"  
>> wrote:
>> Your right. I called it a resistor but that may not be what it really is
>> 
>> Thank you,
>> 
>> Ross M. Jamison
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> On Aug 27, 2012, at 12:36 PM, "Hanghank"  wrote:
>> 
>>> Double check that.  I know only a little about LED’s but they are low  
>>> load, and I believe the resistor goes across the two leads to the LED to 
>>> increase the load, or current consumption.  Putting them in series with the 
>>> power would reduce the voltage/current even more.  Ironically, current 
>>> operated relays require additional load to be added to the circuit, 
>>> negating the benefit of the reduced current.  No resistor needed except for 
>>> current operated relays.  Why not add a “solid state” relay and enjoy the 
>>> energy savings?
>>>  
>>> From: Ross M. Jamison
>>> Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 12:13 PM
>>> To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>>> Cc: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>>>  
>>> Graham,
>>> Check to see that there are NO LED bulbs installed. Led & incandescent will 
>>> not work together. You can make them but you will need a resistor between 
>>> the led & power source.
>>> 
>>> Thank you,
>>>  
>>> Ross M. Jamison
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> On Aug 27, 2012, at 8:25 AM, Graham Rogers  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
 thanks Kurt,  I'll come back to it again later - I have to put my mind on 
 something else for a while, it's too boggled,  Graham
  
 On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:21 AM, Kurt Nolte wrote:
 
> Graham, to recap:
> 
> You have swapped the relay, and you know you have four working bulbs.
> 
> The relay supplies power to the signal switch. Internal contacts in the 
> switch disconnect the parking light (not supplied by the relay) and 
> connect the pathway to the proper signals side. The load of the bulbs 
> draws a certain amount of current through the relay, which heats up a 
> metal strip. This causes the strip to change shape, breaking the circuit. 
> Current stops flowing, the strip cools and makes the circuit to start the 
> cycle all over again.
> 
> If you have an issue with all four signals, the problem must lie 
> somewhere upstream of the switch, including the switch itself.
> 
> When the switch is OFF, you will read voltage at the switch from the 
> relay; the meter makes the connection and allows current to flow. If you 
> have voltage at the switch, try checking JUST continuity across switch 
> contacts. Unplug the wire from the relay; if it is functioning properly 
> you'll just get intermittent voltage, which isn't useful for checks.
> 
> Kurt
> 
> On Aug 27, 2012 8:21 AM, "Graham Rogers"  
> wrote:
> Allen,  I spent a couple of hours at it yesterday afternoon - couldn't 
> find it.  I'll try again today and report back.  It seems that I have 12 
> v from the gray wire at the relay to the turn signal bulb but when I 
> activate the turn signal it cancels the voltage in the gray wir

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

[Graham Rogers]

all the turn signals work when tested on a battery

On Aug 27, 2012, at 3:14 PM, Joey Kelley wrote:

> Graham,
> Dumb question - if you pull the turn signals out and
> separate them from the harness - do you have power at the appropriate
> wires there? If you do, its in the socket or the wires leading to it.
> If not, your break is between that point in the harness and the rest
> of the harness.
> -Joey
> 
> On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 3:04 PM, Graham Rogers
>  wrote:
>> thanks Ross,  I already thought of that
>> 
>> On Aug 27, 2012, at 1:13 PM, Ross M. Jamison wrote:
>> 
>> Graham,
>> Check to see that there are NO LED bulbs installed. Led & incandescent will
>> not work together. You can make them but you will need a resistor between
>> the led & power source.
>> 
>> Thank you,
>> 
>> Ross M. Jamison
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> On Aug 27, 2012, at 8:25 AM, Graham Rogers 
>> wrote:
>> 
>> thanks Kurt,  I'll come back to it again later - I have to put my mind on
>> something else for a while, it's too boggled,  Graham
>> 
>> On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:21 AM, Kurt Nolte wrote:
>> 
>> Graham, to recap:
>> 
>> You have swapped the relay, and you know you have four working bulbs.
>> 
>> The relay supplies power to the signal switch. Internal contacts in the
>> switch disconnect the parking light (not supplied by the relay) and connect
>> the pathway to the proper signals side. The load of the bulbs draws a
>> certain amount of current through the relay, which heats up a metal strip.
>> This causes the strip to change shape, breaking the circuit. Current stops
>> flowing, the strip cools and makes the circuit to start the cycle all over
>> again.
>> 
>> If you have an issue with all four signals, the problem must lie somewhere
>> upstream of the switch, including the switch itself.
>> 
>> When the switch is OFF, you will read voltage at the switch from the relay;
>> the meter makes the connection and allows current to flow. If you have
>> voltage at the switch, try checking JUST continuity across switch contacts.
>> Unplug the wire from the relay; if it is functioning properly you'll just
>> get intermittent voltage, which isn't useful for checks.
>> 
>> Kurt
>> 
>> On Aug 27, 2012 8:21 AM, "Graham Rogers"  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Allen,  I spent a couple of hours at it yesterday afternoon - couldn't
>>> find it.  I'll try again today and report back.  It seems that I have 12 v
>>> from the gray wire at the relay to the turn signal bulb but when I activate
>>> the turn signal it cancels the voltage in the gray wire (which may be it
>>> should if the gray wire carries voltage to the running lights and the
>>> running lights go out when activating the turn signal). However the green
>>> and white is not hot to the bulb when I activate the turn signal. I tried
>>> jumping wires from the relay to various places along the wire harness. Just
>>> give me carbs to clean instead! Graham
>>> 
>>> On Aug 26, 2012, at 11:36 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:
>>> 
>>> Graham, any luck on finding the bad wire?
>>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>>> 
>>> From: "Allen Thomas" 
>>> Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:54:49 +
>>> To: Nightwawk Lovers
>>> ReplyTo: althomas...@gmail.com
>>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>>> 
>>> That is what the givi cases are for.
>>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>>> 
>>> From: Kurt Nolte 
>>> Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>>> Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:25:24 -0400
>>> To: 
>>> ReplyTo: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>>> 
>>> You crazy lucky people and your blinker parties. I'm nine hours away. :/
>>> 
>>> Javier, where do you fit the cooler on the bike? Inquiring minds...
>>> 
>>> -Kurt
>>> 
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>>> To post to this group, send email to nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
>>> nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>>> For more options, visit this group at
>>> http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en.
>>> 
>>> --
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>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> --
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>>> For more option

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

[Joey Kelley]

Graham,
 Dumb question - if you pull the turn signals out and
separate them from the harness - do you have power at the appropriate
wires there? If you do, its in the socket or the wires leading to it.
If not, your break is between that point in the harness and the rest
of the harness.
 -Joey

On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 3:04 PM, Graham Rogers
 wrote:
> thanks Ross,  I already thought of that
>
> On Aug 27, 2012, at 1:13 PM, Ross M. Jamison wrote:
>
> Graham,
> Check to see that there are NO LED bulbs installed. Led & incandescent will
> not work together. You can make them but you will need a resistor between
> the led & power source.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Ross M. Jamison
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 27, 2012, at 8:25 AM, Graham Rogers 
> wrote:
>
> thanks Kurt,  I'll come back to it again later - I have to put my mind on
> something else for a while, it's too boggled,  Graham
>
> On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:21 AM, Kurt Nolte wrote:
>
> Graham, to recap:
>
> You have swapped the relay, and you know you have four working bulbs.
>
> The relay supplies power to the signal switch. Internal contacts in the
> switch disconnect the parking light (not supplied by the relay) and connect
> the pathway to the proper signals side. The load of the bulbs draws a
> certain amount of current through the relay, which heats up a metal strip.
> This causes the strip to change shape, breaking the circuit. Current stops
> flowing, the strip cools and makes the circuit to start the cycle all over
> again.
>
> If you have an issue with all four signals, the problem must lie somewhere
> upstream of the switch, including the switch itself.
>
> When the switch is OFF, you will read voltage at the switch from the relay;
> the meter makes the connection and allows current to flow. If you have
> voltage at the switch, try checking JUST continuity across switch contacts.
> Unplug the wire from the relay; if it is functioning properly you'll just
> get intermittent voltage, which isn't useful for checks.
>
> Kurt
>
> On Aug 27, 2012 8:21 AM, "Graham Rogers"  wrote:
>>
>> Allen,  I spent a couple of hours at it yesterday afternoon - couldn't
>> find it.  I'll try again today and report back.  It seems that I have 12 v
>> from the gray wire at the relay to the turn signal bulb but when I activate
>> the turn signal it cancels the voltage in the gray wire (which may be it
>> should if the gray wire carries voltage to the running lights and the
>> running lights go out when activating the turn signal). However the green
>> and white is not hot to the bulb when I activate the turn signal. I tried
>> jumping wires from the relay to various places along the wire harness. Just
>> give me carbs to clean instead! Graham
>>
>> On Aug 26, 2012, at 11:36 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:
>>
>> Graham, any luck on finding the bad wire?
>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>> 
>> From: "Allen Thomas" 
>> Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:54:49 +
>> To: Nightwawk Lovers
>> ReplyTo: althomas...@gmail.com
>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>>
>> That is what the givi cases are for.
>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>> 
>> From: Kurt Nolte 
>> Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:25:24 -0400
>> To: 
>> ReplyTo: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>>
>> You crazy lucky people and your blinker parties. I'm nine hours away. :/
>>
>> Javier, where do you fit the cooler on the bike? Inquiring minds...
>>
>> -Kurt
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>> To post to this group, send email to nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com.
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
>> nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> For more options, visit this group at
>> http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en.
>>
>> --
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>> For more options, visit this group at
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>>
>>
>>
>> --
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>
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

[Graham Rogers]

thanks Ross,  I already thought of that

On Aug 27, 2012, at 1:13 PM, Ross M. Jamison wrote:

> Graham,
> Check to see that there are NO LED bulbs installed. Led & incandescent will 
> not work together. You can make them but you will need a resistor between the 
> led & power source.
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Ross M. Jamison
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Aug 27, 2012, at 8:25 AM, Graham Rogers  wrote:
> 
>> thanks Kurt,  I'll come back to it again later - I have to put my mind on 
>> something else for a while, it's too boggled,  Graham
>> 
>> On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:21 AM, Kurt Nolte wrote:
>> 
>>> Graham, to recap:
>>> 
>>> You have swapped the relay, and you know you have four working bulbs.
>>> 
>>> The relay supplies power to the signal switch. Internal contacts in the 
>>> switch disconnect the parking light (not supplied by the relay) and connect 
>>> the pathway to the proper signals side. The load of the bulbs draws a 
>>> certain amount of current through the relay, which heats up a metal strip. 
>>> This causes the strip to change shape, breaking the circuit. Current stops 
>>> flowing, the strip cools and makes the circuit to start the cycle all over 
>>> again.
>>> 
>>> If you have an issue with all four signals, the problem must lie somewhere 
>>> upstream of the switch, including the switch itself.
>>> 
>>> When the switch is OFF, you will read voltage at the switch from the relay; 
>>> the meter makes the connection and allows current to flow. If you have 
>>> voltage at the switch, try checking JUST continuity across switch contacts. 
>>> Unplug the wire from the relay; if it is functioning properly you'll just 
>>> get intermittent voltage, which isn't useful for checks.
>>> 
>>> Kurt
>>> On Aug 27, 2012 8:21 AM, "Graham Rogers"  wrote:
>>> Allen,  I spent a couple of hours at it yesterday afternoon - couldn't find 
>>> it.  I'll try again today and report back.  It seems that I have 12 v from 
>>> the gray wire at the relay to the turn signal bulb but when I activate the 
>>> turn signal it cancels the voltage in the gray wire (which may be it should 
>>> if the gray wire carries voltage to the running lights and the running 
>>> lights go out when activating the turn signal). However the green and white 
>>> is not hot to the bulb when I activate the turn signal. I tried jumping 
>>> wires from the relay to various places along the wire harness. Just give me 
>>> carbs to clean instead! Graham
>>> 
>>> On Aug 26, 2012, at 11:36 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:
>>> 
 Graham, any luck on finding the bad wire?
 Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
 From: "Allen Thomas" 
 Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:54:49 +
 To: Nightwawk Lovers
 ReplyTo: althomas...@gmail.com
 Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
 
 That is what the givi cases are for.
 Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
 From: Kurt Nolte 
 Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
 Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:25:24 -0400
 To: 
 ReplyTo: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
 
 You crazy lucky people and your blinker parties. I'm nine hours away. :/
 
 Javier, where do you fit the cooler on the bike? Inquiring minds...
 
 -Kurt
 
 -- 
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
 "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
 To post to this group, send email to nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com.
 To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
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 For more options, visit this group at 
 http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en.
 
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>>> 
>>> 
>>> -- 
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>>> To post to this group, send email to nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
>>> nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>>> For more options, visit this group at 
>>> http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en.
>> 
>> 
>> -- 

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

[Hanghank]

Exercized:  when you ride the devil out of it!
Exorcized:  when you get the priest to drive the devil out of it!
Excercized: circumcision by an ex wife. (Not sure spelling it, but my ex would 
do it!)   ;~)


From: Ross M. Jamison 
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 1:38 PM
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com 
Cc: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

Wow. Did I open a can of worms. All I wanted to do is have a check in disparity 
of bulbs. I recommend we blame gremlins & have the bike excercized.


Thank you,

Ross M. Jamison
Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 27, 2012, at 1:25 PM, Kurt Nolte  wrote:


  "ballast resistor" is the term I typically hear. 

  An LEDs output does not depend on the voltage across it, like a standard 
filament. Normal lights use current through a wire to make heat; light is the 
byproduct. Since V=IR, and the resistance is fixed, more voltage across the 
element gives you more current through it, thus more light.

  An LED produces light from the interaction of electrons across a junction of 
two dissimilar materials. The voltage drop across the junction is fixed by 
properties of the junction; more voltage can damage the diode, not help it. 

  If the diode is the only draw in the circuit, current will be very HIGH, as 
the resistance of the wire is low and the voltage is high. "Drop in" LEDs have 
a VERY large resistor in series with the diode, to shed voltage down to the 
needed level without drawing high current.

  Looking at it that way, the product page is correct, and my initial 
suggestion was bad; putting the ballast resistor pack across the terminals of 
the lamp unit (diode + resistor) will decrease resistance and increase current, 
allowing the load dependent flasher to work.

  My comment did not assume a retail lamp, w/ resistor already in the circuit.

  Kurt

  On Aug 27, 2012 2:13 PM, "Ross M. Jamison"  
wrote:

Your right. I called it a resistor but that may not be what it really is


Thank you,

Ross M. Jamison
Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 27, 2012, at 12:36 PM, "Hanghank"  wrote:


  Double check that.  I know only a little about LED’s but they are low 
load, and I believe the resistor goes across the two leads to the LED to 
increase the load, or current consumption.  Putting them in series with the 
power would reduce the voltage/current even more.  Ironically, current operated 
relays require additional load to be added to the circuit, negating the benefit 
of the reduced current.  No resistor needed except for current operated relays. 
 Why not add a “solid state” relay and enjoy the energy savings?

  From: Ross M. Jamison 
  Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 12:13 PM
  To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com 
  Cc: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com 
  Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

  Graham,
  Check to see that there are NO LED bulbs installed. Led & incandescent 
will not work together. You can make them but you will need a resistor between 
the led & power source.


  Thank you,

  Ross M. Jamison
  Sent from my iPhone

  On Aug 27, 2012, at 8:25 AM, Graham Rogers  
wrote:


thanks Kurt,  I'll come back to it again later - I have to put my mind 
on something else for a while, it's too boggled,  Graham 

On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:21 AM, Kurt Nolte wrote:


  Graham, to recap:

  You have swapped the relay, and you know you have four working bulbs.

  The relay supplies power to the signal switch. Internal contacts in 
the switch disconnect the parking light (not supplied by the relay) and connect 
the pathway to the proper signals side. The load of the bulbs draws a certain 
amount of current through the relay, which heats up a metal strip. This causes 
the strip to change shape, breaking the circuit. Current stops flowing, the 
strip cools and makes the circuit to start the cycle all over again.

  If you have an issue with all four signals, the problem must lie 
somewhere upstream of the switch, including the switch itself. 

  When the switch is OFF, you will read voltage at the switch from the 
relay; the meter makes the connection and allows current to flow. If you have 
voltage at the switch, try checking JUST continuity across switch contacts. 
Unplug the wire from the relay; if it is functioning properly you'll just get 
intermittent voltage, which isn't useful for checks.

  Kurt


  On Aug 27, 2012 8:21 AM, "Graham Rogers"  
wrote:

Allen,  I spent a couple of hours at it yesterday afternoon - 
couldn't find it.  I'll try again today and report back.  It seems that I have 
12 v from the gray wire at the relay to the turn signal bulb but when I 
activate the turn signal it cancels the voltage in the gray wire (which may be 
it should if the gray wire carries voltage to the running lights and the 
running light

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

[Kurt Nolte]

Sorry, sometimes I launch into "lecture mode" with these things. Didn't
mean to offend anyone.

Kurt
On Aug 27, 2012 2:39 PM, "Ross M. Jamison" 
wrote:

> Wow. Did I open a can of worms. All I wanted to do is have a check in
> disparity of bulbs. I recommend we blame gremlins & have the bike
> excercized.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Ross M. Jamison
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 27, 2012, at 1:25 PM, Kurt Nolte  wrote:
>
> "ballast resistor" is the term I typically hear.
>
> An LEDs output does not depend on the voltage across it, like a standard
> filament. Normal lights use current through a wire to make heat; light is
> the byproduct. Since V=IR, and the resistance is fixed, more voltage across
> the element gives you more current through it, thus more light.
>
> An LED produces light from the interaction of electrons across a junction
> of two dissimilar materials. The voltage drop across the junction is fixed
> by properties of the junction; more voltage can damage the diode, not help
> it.
>
> If the diode is the only draw in the circuit, current will be very HIGH,
> as the resistance of the wire is low and the voltage is high. "Drop in"
> LEDs have a VERY large resistor in series with the diode, to shed voltage
> down to the needed level without drawing high current.
>
> Looking at it that way, the product page is correct, and my initial
> suggestion was bad; putting the ballast resistor pack across the terminals
> of the lamp unit (diode + resistor) will decrease resistance and increase
> current, allowing the load dependent flasher to work.
>
> My comment did not assume a retail lamp, w/ resistor already in the
> circuit.
>
> Kurt
> On Aug 27, 2012 2:13 PM, "Ross M. Jamison" 
> wrote:
>
>> Your right. I called it a resistor but that may not be what it really is
>>
>> Thank you,
>>
>> Ross M. Jamison
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Aug 27, 2012, at 12:36 PM, "Hanghank"  wrote:
>>
>>  Double check that.  I know only a little about LED’s but they are low
>> load, and I believe the resistor goes across the two leads to the LED to
>> *increase* the load, or current consumption.  Putting them in series
>> with the power would reduce the voltage/current even more.  Ironically,
>> current operated relays require additional load to be added to the circuit,
>> negating the benefit of the reduced current.  No resistor needed except for
>> current operated relays.  Why not add a “solid state” relay and enjoy the
>> energy savings?
>>
>>  *From:* Ross M. Jamison 
>> *Sent:* Monday, August 27, 2012 12:13 PM
>> *To:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> *Cc:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>>
>>  Graham,
>> Check to see that there are NO LED bulbs installed. Led & incandescent
>> will not work together. You can make them but you will need a resistor
>> between the led & power source.
>>
>> Thank you,
>>
>> Ross M. Jamison
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Aug 27, 2012, at 8:25 AM, Graham Rogers 
>> wrote:
>>
>>  thanks Kurt,  I'll come back to it again later - I have to put my mind
>> on something else for a while, it's too boggled,  Graham
>>
>>  On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:21 AM, Kurt Nolte wrote:
>>
>>  Graham, to recap:
>>
>> You have swapped the relay, and you know you have four working bulbs.
>>
>> The relay supplies power to the signal switch. Internal contacts in the
>> switch disconnect the parking light (not supplied by the relay) and connect
>> the pathway to the proper signals side. The load of the bulbs draws a
>> certain amount of current through the relay, which heats up a metal strip.
>> This causes the strip to change shape, breaking the circuit. Current stops
>> flowing, the strip cools and makes the circuit to start the cycle all over
>> again.
>>
>> If you have an issue with all four signals, the problem must lie
>> somewhere upstream of the switch, including the switch itself.
>>
>> When the switch is OFF, you will read voltage at the switch from the
>> relay; the meter makes the connection and allows current to flow. If you
>> have voltage at the switch, try checking JUST continuity across switch
>> contacts. Unplug the wire from the relay; if it is functioning properly
>> you'll just get intermittent voltage, which isn't useful for checks.
>>
>> Kurt
>> On Aug 27, 2012 8:21 AM, "Graham Rogers" 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Allen,  I spent a couple of hours at it yesterday afternoon - couldn't
>>> find it.  I'll try again today and report back.  It seems that I have 12 v
>>> from the gray wire at the relay to the turn signal bulb but when I activate
>>> the turn signal it cancels the voltage in the gray wire (which may be it
>>> should if the gray wire carries voltage to the running lights and the
>>> running lights go out when activating the turn signal). However the green
>>> and white is not hot to the bulb when I activate the turn signal. I tried
>>> jumping wires from the relay to various places along the wire harness. Just
>>> give me c

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

[Ross M. Jamison]

Wow. Did I open a can of worms. All I wanted to do is have a check in disparity 
of bulbs. I recommend we blame gremlins & have the bike excercized.

Thank you,

Ross M. Jamison
Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 27, 2012, at 1:25 PM, Kurt Nolte  wrote:

> "ballast resistor" is the term I typically hear.
> 
> An LEDs output does not depend on the voltage across it, like a standard 
> filament. Normal lights use current through a wire to make heat; light is the 
> byproduct. Since V=IR, and the resistance is fixed, more voltage across the 
> element gives you more current through it, thus more light.
> 
> An LED produces light from the interaction of electrons across a junction of 
> two dissimilar materials. The voltage drop across the junction is fixed by 
> properties of the junction; more voltage can damage the diode, not help it.
> 
> If the diode is the only draw in the circuit, current will be very HIGH, as 
> the resistance of the wire is low and the voltage is high. "Drop in" LEDs 
> have a VERY large resistor in series with the diode, to shed voltage down to 
> the needed level without drawing high current.
> 
> Looking at it that way, the product page is correct, and my initial 
> suggestion was bad; putting the ballast resistor pack across the terminals of 
> the lamp unit (diode + resistor) will decrease resistance and increase 
> current, allowing the load dependent flasher to work.
> 
> My comment did not assume a retail lamp, w/ resistor already in the circuit.
> 
> Kurt
> 
> On Aug 27, 2012 2:13 PM, "Ross M. Jamison"  
> wrote:
> Your right. I called it a resistor but that may not be what it really is
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Ross M. Jamison
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Aug 27, 2012, at 12:36 PM, "Hanghank"  wrote:
> 
>> Double check that.  I know only a little about LED’s but they are low load, 
>> and I believe the resistor goes across the two leads to the LED to increase 
>> the load, or current consumption.  Putting them in series  with the power 
>> would reduce the voltage/current even more.  Ironically, current operated 
>> relays require additional load to be added to the circuit, negating the 
>> benefit of the reduced current.  No resistor needed except for current 
>> operated relays.  Why not add a “solid state” relay and enjoy the energy 
>> savings?
>>  
>> From: Ross M. Jamison
>> Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 12:13 PM
>> To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> Cc: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>>  
>> Graham,
>> Check to see that there are NO LED bulbs installed. Led & incandescent will 
>> not work together. You can make them but you will need a resistor between 
>> the led & power source.
>> 
>> Thank you,
>>  
>> Ross M. Jamison
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> On Aug 27, 2012, at 8:25 AM, Graham Rogers  
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> thanks Kurt,  I'll come back to it again later - I have to put my mind on 
>>> something else for a while, it's too boggled,  Graham
>>>  
>>> On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:21 AM, Kurt Nolte wrote:
>>> 
 Graham, to recap:
 
 You have swapped the relay, and you know you have four working bulbs.
 
 The relay supplies power to the signal switch. Internal contacts in the 
 switch disconnect the parking light (not supplied by the relay) and 
 connect the pathway to the proper signals side. The load of the bulbs 
 draws a certain amount of current through the relay, which heats up a 
 metal strip. This causes the strip to change shape, breaking the circuit. 
 Current stops flowing, the strip cools and makes the circuit to start the 
 cycle all over again.
 
 If you have an issue with all four signals, the problem must lie somewhere 
 upstream of the switch, including the switch itself.
 
 When the switch is OFF, you will read voltage at the switch from the 
 relay; the meter makes the connection and allows current to flow. If you 
 have voltage at the switch, try checking JUST continuity across switch 
 contacts. Unplug the wire from the relay; if it is functioning properly 
 you'll just get intermittent voltage, which isn't useful for checks.
 
 Kurt
 
 On Aug 27, 2012 8:21 AM, "Graham Rogers"  
 wrote:
 Allen,  I spent a couple of hours at it yesterday afternoon - couldn't 
 find it.  I'll try again today and report back.  It seems that I have 12 v 
 from the gray wire at the relay to the turn signal bulb but when I 
 activate the turn signal it cancels the voltage in the gray wire (which 
 may be it should if the gray wire carries voltage to the running lights 
 and the running lights go out when activating the turn signal). However 
 the green and white is not hot to the bulb when I activate the turn 
 signal. I tried jumping wires from the relay to various places along the 
 wire harness. Just give me carbs to clean instead! Graham
  
 On Aug 26, 2012, at 11:

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] LED lights, load resistors, blinking problems

[Kyle Munz]

They would have to be in series to do any good. That way the electrons have
no choice but to go through them. In parallel they have two choices,
through the resistor, or through the load. Current always chooses the path
of least resistance.

-Kyle
On Aug 27, 2012 1:09 PM, "Hanghank"  wrote:

>   You really should let the manufacturer’s of those LED’s know about that
> “in series” hookup.  They are telling everyone (incorrectly?) that they
> need to be across the bulb:
>
> LED LOAD RESISTOR & RECON 12-V RELAY KIT   Part # 26420 - LED Light Bulb
> Load Resistor Kit  [image: RECON Part # 26420 - LED Bulb Load
> Resistor 6 Ohm / 50 Watt For Signal or Brake light with Dual Filament LED
> bulbs][image: LED light bulb 
> resistors]   RECON
> Part # 26420 - LED Bulb Load Resistor 6 Ohm / 50 Watt For Signal or Brake
> light with Dual Filament LED bulbs
>
> LED bulbs may cause some newer vehicles to indicate a bulb is burnt out
> (because of their low power consumption). Some cars indicate this by
> increasing the flash rate of the turn signals, some turn on a bad bulb
> indicator. This can be remedied with our Load Resistors wired across the
> turn signal bulbs to simulate a filament bulb load.
> This 6 Ohm, 50 Watt resistors can be connected across the turn signal
> bulbs to simulate the load of a regular filament bulb (2 Amp load). This
> will solve LED related turn signal problems such as hyper flashing or burnt
> out bulb indications. This LED Load Resistor can be use with most signal or
> brake light which uses SINGLE or DUAL FILAMENT LED light bulbs, like the
> 7443, 1157, 3157, 4157, 1156, 7440, 3156 etc
>  http://www.gorecon.com/product.php?pk=242
>
>
>  *From:* Kurt Nolte 
> *Sent:* Monday, August 27, 2012 12:38 PM
> *To:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>
>
> Resistors for LEDs must go in series with the diode, not across the leads.
> If you bridge the leads you don't get much bump in resistance or current;
> diodes have a fixed voltage drop, and elements in parallel MUST match
> voltage drops.
>
> Kurt
> On Aug 27, 2012 1:36 PM, "Hanghank"  wrote:
>
>>   Double check that.  I know only a little about LED’s but they are low
>> load, and I believe the resistor goes across the two leads to the LED to
>> *increase* the load, or current consumption.  Putting them in series
>> with the power would reduce the voltage/current even more.  Ironically,
>> current operated relays require additional load to be added to the circuit,
>> negating the benefit of the reduced current.  No resistor needed except for
>> current operated relays.  Why not add a “solid state” relay and enjoy the
>> energy savings?
>>
>>  *From:* Ross M. Jamison 
>> *Sent:* Monday, August 27, 2012 12:13 PM
>> *To:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> *Cc:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>>
>>  Graham,
>> Check to see that there are NO LED bulbs installed. Led & incandescent
>> will not work together. You can make them but you will need a resistor
>> between the led & power source.
>>
>> Thank you,
>>
>> Ross M. Jamison
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Aug 27, 2012, at 8:25 AM, Graham Rogers 
>> wrote:
>>
>>  thanks Kurt,  I'll come back to it again later - I have to put my mind
>> on something else for a while, it's too boggled,  Graham
>>
>>  On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:21 AM, Kurt Nolte wrote:
>>
>>  Graham, to recap:
>>
>> You have swapped the relay, and you know you have four working bulbs.
>>
>> The relay supplies power to the signal switch. Internal contacts in the
>> switch disconnect the parking light (not supplied by the relay) and connect
>> the pathway to the proper signals side. The load of the bulbs draws a
>> certain amount of current through the relay, which heats up a metal strip.
>> This causes the strip to change shape, breaking the circuit. Current stops
>> flowing, the strip cools and makes the circuit to start the cycle all over
>> again.
>>
>> If you have an issue with all four signals, the problem must lie
>> somewhere upstream of the switch, including the switch itself.
>>
>> When the switch is OFF, you will read voltage at the switch from the
>> relay; the meter makes the connection and allows current to flow. If you
>> have voltage at the switch, try checking JUST continuity across switch
>> contacts. Unplug the wire from the relay; if it is functioning properly
>> you'll just get intermittent voltage, which isn't useful for checks.
>>
>> Kurt
>> On Aug 27, 2012 8:21 AM, "Graham Rogers" 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Allen,  I spent a couple of hours at it yesterday afternoon - couldn't
>>> find it.  I'll try again today and report back.  It seems that I have 12 v
>>> from the gray wire at the relay to the turn signal bulb but when I activate
>>> the turn signal it cancels the voltage in the gray wire (which may be it
>>> should if the gray

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

[Kurt Nolte]

"ballast resistor" is the term I typically hear.

An LEDs output does not depend on the voltage across it, like a standard
filament. Normal lights use current through a wire to make heat; light is
the byproduct. Since V=IR, and the resistance is fixed, more voltage across
the element gives you more current through it, thus more light.

An LED produces light from the interaction of electrons across a junction
of two dissimilar materials. The voltage drop across the junction is fixed
by properties of the junction; more voltage can damage the diode, not help
it.

If the diode is the only draw in the circuit, current will be very HIGH, as
the resistance of the wire is low and the voltage is high. "Drop in" LEDs
have a VERY large resistor in series with the diode, to shed voltage down
to the needed level without drawing high current.

Looking at it that way, the product page is correct, and my initial
suggestion was bad; putting the ballast resistor pack across the terminals
of the lamp unit (diode + resistor) will decrease resistance and increase
current, allowing the load dependent flasher to work.

My comment did not assume a retail lamp, w/ resistor already in the circuit.

Kurt
On Aug 27, 2012 2:13 PM, "Ross M. Jamison" 
wrote:

> Your right. I called it a resistor but that may not be what it really is
>
> Thank you,
>
> Ross M. Jamison
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 27, 2012, at 12:36 PM, "Hanghank"  wrote:
>
>  Double check that.  I know only a little about LED’s but they are low
> load, and I believe the resistor goes across the two leads to the LED to *
> increase* the load, or current consumption.  Putting them in series with
> the power would reduce the voltage/current even more.  Ironically, current
> operated relays require additional load to be added to the circuit,
> negating the benefit of the reduced current.  No resistor needed except for
> current operated relays.  Why not add a “solid state” relay and enjoy the
> energy savings?
>
>  *From:* Ross M. Jamison 
> *Sent:* Monday, August 27, 2012 12:13 PM
> *To:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> *Cc:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>
>  Graham,
> Check to see that there are NO LED bulbs installed. Led & incandescent
> will not work together. You can make them but you will need a resistor
> between the led & power source.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Ross M. Jamison
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 27, 2012, at 8:25 AM, Graham Rogers 
> wrote:
>
>  thanks Kurt,  I'll come back to it again later - I have to put my mind
> on something else for a while, it's too boggled,  Graham
>
>  On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:21 AM, Kurt Nolte wrote:
>
>  Graham, to recap:
>
> You have swapped the relay, and you know you have four working bulbs.
>
> The relay supplies power to the signal switch. Internal contacts in the
> switch disconnect the parking light (not supplied by the relay) and connect
> the pathway to the proper signals side. The load of the bulbs draws a
> certain amount of current through the relay, which heats up a metal strip.
> This causes the strip to change shape, breaking the circuit. Current stops
> flowing, the strip cools and makes the circuit to start the cycle all over
> again.
>
> If you have an issue with all four signals, the problem must lie somewhere
> upstream of the switch, including the switch itself.
>
> When the switch is OFF, you will read voltage at the switch from the
> relay; the meter makes the connection and allows current to flow. If you
> have voltage at the switch, try checking JUST continuity across switch
> contacts. Unplug the wire from the relay; if it is functioning properly
> you'll just get intermittent voltage, which isn't useful for checks.
>
> Kurt
> On Aug 27, 2012 8:21 AM, "Graham Rogers" 
> wrote:
>
>> Allen,  I spent a couple of hours at it yesterday afternoon - couldn't
>> find it.  I'll try again today and report back.  It seems that I have 12 v
>> from the gray wire at the relay to the turn signal bulb but when I activate
>> the turn signal it cancels the voltage in the gray wire (which may be it
>> should if the gray wire carries voltage to the running lights and the
>> running lights go out when activating the turn signal). However the green
>> and white is not hot to the bulb when I activate the turn signal. I tried
>> jumping wires from the relay to various places along the wire harness. Just
>> give me carbs to clean instead! Graham
>>
>>  On Aug 26, 2012, at 11:36 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:
>>
>>  Graham, any luck on finding the bad wire?
>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>> --
>> *From: *"Allen Thomas" 
>> *Date: *Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:54:49 +
>> *To: *Nightwawk Lovers
>> *ReplyTo: *althomas...@gmail.com
>> *Subject: *Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>>
>> That is what the givi cases are for.
>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>> --
>> *From: *Kurt Nolte 
>> *Sen

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] No Kill Switch

[Hanghank]

I do not use the kill switch, but I think it is a good idea because of all the 
reasons listed, particularly security.  My bike (‘84 CB650SC) fires so quickly 
that any delay in firing causes an instant check of the kill switch.  Sometimes 
it gets accidentally bumped off just in moving the bike.  It has happened often 
enough to become the “first check” in case of a “no fire”.  No crank over is 
instant check of neutral/clutch lever.  My rule is “never crank over the engine 
without fully squeezing the clutch lever”.  Can’t ever hurt anything, and might 
prevent it jumping out from under you”.
Gene



From: Jaybird248 
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 12:35 PM
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com 
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] No Kill Switch

In contrast to others on this group, I don't use the kill switch. It would be 
too easy to forget to also turn the key off and to return to a dead battery 
drained by the headlight. Not that it's never been used. When I first joined my 
rider club, I returned from lunch with the group to find a dead bike. Turned 
over but didn't fire. Of course, everyone else was mounted up, ready to go.  I 
panicked, of course, until one guy walked casually to my bike, and flipped the 
kill button on, as everyone else guffawed. It was a little trick they play on 
new members. 
Haven't used it since, though. On my own bike, that is. 

Jay S
92 NH750
South Florida
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

[Ross M. Jamison]

What you guys said.

Thank you,

Ross M. Jamison
Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 27, 2012, at 12:38 PM, Kurt Nolte  wrote:

> Resistors for LEDs must go in series with the diode, not across the leads. If 
> you bridge the leads you don't get much bump in resistance or current; diodes 
> have a fixed voltage drop, and elements in parallel MUST match voltage drops.
> 
> Kurt
> 
> On Aug 27, 2012 1:36 PM, "Hanghank"  wrote:
> Double check that.  I know only a little about LED’s but they are low load, 
> and I believe the resistor goes across the two leads to the LED to increase 
> the load, or current consumption.  Putting them in series with the power 
> would reduce the voltage/current even more.  Ironically, current operated 
> relays require additional load to be added to the circuit, negating the 
> benefit of the reduced current.  No resistor needed except for current 
> operated relays.  Why not add a “solid state” relay and enjoy the energy 
> savings?
>  
> From: Ross M. Jamison
> Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 12:13 PM
> To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> Cc: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>  
> Graham,
> Check to see that there are NO LED bulbs installed. Led & incandescent will 
> not work together. You can make them but you will need a resistor between the 
> led & power source.
> 
> Thank you,
>  
> Ross M. Jamison
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Aug 27, 2012, at 8:25 AM, Graham Rogers  wrote:
> 
>> thanks Kurt,  I'll come back to it again later - I have to put my mind on 
>> something else for a while, it's too boggled,  Graham
>>  
>> On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:21 AM, Kurt Nolte wrote:
>> 
>>> Graham, to recap:
>>> 
>>> You have swapped the relay, and you know you have four working bulbs.
>>> 
>>> The relay supplies power to the signal switch. Internal contacts in the 
>>> switch disconnect the parking light (not supplied by the relay) and connect 
>>> the pathway to the proper signals side. The load of the bulbs draws a 
>>> certain amount of current through the relay, which heats up a metal strip. 
>>> This causes the strip to change shape, breaking the circuit. Current stops 
>>> flowing, the strip cools and makes the circuit to start the cycle all over 
>>> again.
>>> 
>>> If you have an issue with all four signals, the problem must lie somewhere 
>>> upstream of the switch, including the switch itself.
>>> 
>>> When the switch is OFF, you will read voltage at the switch from the relay; 
>>> the meter makes the connection and allows current to flow. If you have 
>>> voltage at the switch, try checking JUST continuity across switch contacts. 
>>> Unplug the wire from the relay; if it is functioning properly you'll just 
>>> get intermittent voltage, which isn't useful for checks.
>>> 
>>> Kurt
>>> 
>>> On Aug 27, 2012 8:21 AM, "Graham Rogers"  wrote:
>>> Allen,  I spent a couple of hours at it yesterday afternoon - couldn't find 
>>> it.  I'll try again today and report back.  It seems that I have 12 v from 
>>> the gray wire at the relay to the turn signal bulb but when I activate the 
>>> turn signal it cancels the voltage in the gray wire (which may be it should 
>>> if the gray wire carries voltage to the running lights and the running 
>>> lights go out when activating the turn signal). However the green and white 
>>> is not hot to the bulb when I activate the turn signal. I tried jumping 
>>> wires from the relay to various places along the wire harness. Just give me 
>>> carbs to clean instead! Graham
>>>  
>>> On Aug 26, 2012, at 11:36 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:
>>> 
 Graham, any luck on finding the bad wire?
 Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
 From: "Allen Thomas" 
 Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:54:49 +
 To: Nightwawk Lovers
 ReplyTo: althomas...@gmail.com
 Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
  
 That is what the givi cases are for.  
 Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
 From: Kurt Nolte 
 Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
 Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:25:24 -0400
 To: 
 ReplyTo: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
  
 You crazy lucky people and your blinker parties. I'm nine hours away. :/
  
 Javier, where do you fit the cooler on the bike? Inquiring minds...
  
 -Kurt
  
 -- 
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 To post

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

[Ross M. Jamison]

Your right. I called it a resistor but that may not be what it really is

Thank you,

Ross M. Jamison
Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 27, 2012, at 12:36 PM, "Hanghank"  wrote:

> Double check that.  I know only a little about LED’s but they are low load, 
> and I believe the resistor goes across the two leads to the LED to increase 
> the load, or current consumption.  Putting them in series with the power 
> would reduce the voltage/current even more.  Ironically, current operated 
> relays require additional load to be added to the circuit,  negating the 
> benefit of the reduced current.  No resistor needed except for current 
> operated relays.  Why not add a “solid state” relay and enjoy the energy 
> savings?
>  
> From: Ross M. Jamison
> Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 12:13 PM
> To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com 
> Cc: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com 
> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>  
> Graham,
> Check to see that there are NO LED bulbs installed. Led & incandescent will 
> not work together. You can make them but you will need a resistor between the 
> led & power source.
> 
> Thank you,
>  
> Ross M. Jamison
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Aug 27, 2012, at 8:25 AM, Graham Rogers  wrote:
> 
>> thanks Kurt,  I'll come back to it again later - I have to put my mind on 
>> something else for a while, it's too boggled,  Graham
>>  
>> On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:21 AM, Kurt Nolte wrote:
>> 
>>> Graham, to recap:
>>> 
>>> You have swapped the relay, and you know you have four working bulbs.
>>> 
>>> The relay supplies power to the signal switch. Internal contacts in the 
>>> switch disconnect the parking light (not supplied by the relay) and connect 
>>> the pathway to the proper signals side. The load of the bulbs draws a 
>>> certain amount of current through the relay, which heats up a metal strip. 
>>> This causes the strip to change shape, breaking the circuit. Current stops 
>>> flowing, the strip cools and makes the circuit to start the cycle all over 
>>> again.
>>> 
>>> If you have an issue with all four signals, the problem must lie somewhere 
>>> upstream of the switch, including the switch itself.
>>> 
>>> When the switch is OFF, you will read voltage at the switch from the relay; 
>>> the meter makes the connection and allows current to flow. If you have 
>>> voltage at the switch, try checking JUST continuity across switch contacts. 
>>> Unplug the wire from the relay; if it is functioning properly  you'll 
>>> just get intermittent voltage, which isn't useful for checks.
>>> 
>>> Kurt
>>> 
>>> On Aug 27, 2012 8:21 AM, "Graham Rogers"  wrote:
>>> Allen,  I spent a couple of hours at it yesterday afternoon - couldn't find 
>>> it.  I'll try again today and report back.  It seems that I have 12 v from 
>>> the gray wire at the relay to the turn signal bulb but when I activate the 
>>> turn signal it cancels the voltage in the gray wire (which may be it should 
>>> if the gray wire carries voltage to the running lights and the running 
>>> lights go out when activating the turn signal). However the green and white 
>>> is not hot to the bulb when I activate the turn signal. I tried jumping 
>>> wires from the relay to various places along the wire harness. Just give me 
>>> carbs to clean instead! Graham
>>>  
>>> On Aug 26, 2012, at 11:36 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:
>>> 
 Graham, any luck on finding the bad wire?
 Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
 From: "Allen Thomas" 
 Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:54:49 +
 To: Nightwawk Lovers
 ReplyTo: althomas...@gmail.com
 Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
  
 That is what the givi cases are for.
 Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
 From: Kurt Nolte 
 Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
 Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:25:24 -0400
 To: 
 ReplyTo: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
  
 You crazy lucky people and your blinker parties. I'm nine hours away. :/
  
 Javier, where do you fit the cooler on the bike? Inquiring minds...
  
 -Kurt
  
 -- 
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
 "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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[Nighthawk Lovers] LED lights, load resistors, blinking problems

[Hanghank]

You really should let the manufacturer’s of those LED’s know about that “in 
series” hookup.  They are telling everyone (incorrectly?) that they need to be 
across the bulb:

LED LOAD RESISTOR & RECON 12-V RELAY KITPart # 26420 - LED Light Bulb Load 
Resistor Kit 
  
 
  
 
 
RECON Part # 26420 - LED Bulb Load Resistor 6 Ohm / 50 Watt For 
Signal or Brake light with Dual Filament LED bulbs

LED bulbs may cause some newer vehicles to indicate a bulb is burnt 
out (because of their low power consumption). Some cars indicate this by 
increasing the flash rate of the turn signals, some turn on a bad bulb 
indicator. This can be remedied with our Load Resistors wired across the turn 
signal bulbs to simulate a filament bulb load. 
This 6 Ohm, 50 Watt resistors can be connected across the turn 
signal bulbs to simulate the load of a regular filament bulb (2 Amp load). This 
will solve LED related turn signal problems such as hyper flashing or burnt out 
bulb indications. This LED Load Resistor can be use with most signal or brake 
light which uses SINGLE or DUAL FILAMENT LED light bulbs, like the 7443, 1157, 
3157, 4157, 1156, 7440, 3156 etc 
 

http://www.gorecon.com/product.php?pk=242 


From: Kurt Nolte 
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 12:38 PM
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

Resistors for LEDs must go in series with the diode, not across the leads. If 
you bridge the leads you don't get much bump in resistance or current; diodes 
have a fixed voltage drop, and elements in parallel MUST match voltage drops.

Kurt

On Aug 27, 2012 1:36 PM, "Hanghank"  wrote:

  Double check that.  I know only a little about LED’s but they are low load, 
and I believe the resistor goes across the two leads to the LED to increase the 
load, or current consumption.  Putting them in series with the power would 
reduce the voltage/current even more.  Ironically, current operated relays 
require additional load to be added to the circuit, negating the benefit of the 
reduced current.  No resistor needed except for current operated relays.  Why 
not add a “solid state” relay and enjoy the energy savings?

  From: Ross M. Jamison 
  Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 12:13 PM
  To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com 
  Cc: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com 
  Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

  Graham,
  Check to see that there are NO LED bulbs installed. Led & incandescent will 
not work together. You can make them but you will need a resistor between the 
led & power source.


  Thank you,

  Ross M. Jamison
  Sent from my iPhone

  On Aug 27, 2012, at 8:25 AM, Graham Rogers  wrote:


thanks Kurt,  I'll come back to it again later - I have to put my mind on 
something else for a while, it's too boggled,  Graham 

On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:21 AM, Kurt Nolte wrote:


  Graham, to recap:

  You have swapped the relay, and you know you have four working bulbs.

  The relay supplies power to the signal switch. Internal contacts in the 
switch disconnect the parking light (not supplied by the relay) and connect the 
pathway to the proper signals side. The load of the bulbs draws a certain 
amount of current through the relay, which heats up a metal strip. This causes 
the strip to change shape, breaking the circuit. Current stops flowing, the 
strip cools and makes the circuit to start the cycle all over again.

  If you have an issue with all four signals, the problem must lie 
somewhere upstream of the switch, including the switch itself. 

  When the switch is OFF, you will read voltage at the switch from the 
relay; the meter makes the connection and allows current to flow. If you have 
voltage at the switch, try checking JUST continuity across switch contacts. 
Unplug the wire from the relay; if it is functioning properly you'll just get 
intermittent voltage, which isn't useful for checks.

  Kurt


  On Aug 27, 2012 8:21 AM, "Graham Rogers"  
wrote:

Allen,  I spent a couple of hours at it yesterday afternoon - couldn't 
find it.  I'll try again today and report back.  It seems that I have 12 v from 
the gray wire at the relay to the turn signal bulb but when I activate the turn 
signal it cancels the voltage in the gray wire (which may be it should if the 
gray wire carries voltage to the running lights and the running lights go out 
when activating the turn signal). However the green and white is not hot to the 
bulb when I activate the turn signal. I tried jumping wires from the relay to 
various places along the wire harness. Just give me carbs to clean instead! 
Graham 

On Aug 26, 2012, at 11:36 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:


  Graham, any luck on finding the bad wire? 
  Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

--

  Fro

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

[Kurt Nolte]

Resistors for LEDs must go in series with the diode, not across the leads.
If you bridge the leads you don't get much bump in resistance or current;
diodes have a fixed voltage drop, and elements in parallel MUST match
voltage drops.

Kurt
On Aug 27, 2012 1:36 PM, "Hanghank"  wrote:

>   Double check that.  I know only a little about LED’s but they are low
> load, and I believe the resistor goes across the two leads to the LED to *
> increase* the load, or current consumption.  Putting them in series with
> the power would reduce the voltage/current even more.  Ironically, current
> operated relays require additional load to be added to the circuit,
> negating the benefit of the reduced current.  No resistor needed except for
> current operated relays.  Why not add a “solid state” relay and enjoy the
> energy savings?
>
>  *From:* Ross M. Jamison 
> *Sent:* Monday, August 27, 2012 12:13 PM
> *To:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> *Cc:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>
>  Graham,
> Check to see that there are NO LED bulbs installed. Led & incandescent
> will not work together. You can make them but you will need a resistor
> between the led & power source.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Ross M. Jamison
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 27, 2012, at 8:25 AM, Graham Rogers 
> wrote:
>
>  thanks Kurt,  I'll come back to it again later - I have to put my mind
> on something else for a while, it's too boggled,  Graham
>
>  On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:21 AM, Kurt Nolte wrote:
>
>  Graham, to recap:
>
> You have swapped the relay, and you know you have four working bulbs.
>
> The relay supplies power to the signal switch. Internal contacts in the
> switch disconnect the parking light (not supplied by the relay) and connect
> the pathway to the proper signals side. The load of the bulbs draws a
> certain amount of current through the relay, which heats up a metal strip.
> This causes the strip to change shape, breaking the circuit. Current stops
> flowing, the strip cools and makes the circuit to start the cycle all over
> again.
>
> If you have an issue with all four signals, the problem must lie somewhere
> upstream of the switch, including the switch itself.
>
> When the switch is OFF, you will read voltage at the switch from the
> relay; the meter makes the connection and allows current to flow. If you
> have voltage at the switch, try checking JUST continuity across switch
> contacts. Unplug the wire from the relay; if it is functioning properly
> you'll just get intermittent voltage, which isn't useful for checks.
>
> Kurt
> On Aug 27, 2012 8:21 AM, "Graham Rogers" 
> wrote:
>
>> Allen,  I spent a couple of hours at it yesterday afternoon - couldn't
>> find it.  I'll try again today and report back.  It seems that I have 12 v
>> from the gray wire at the relay to the turn signal bulb but when I activate
>> the turn signal it cancels the voltage in the gray wire (which may be it
>> should if the gray wire carries voltage to the running lights and the
>> running lights go out when activating the turn signal). However the green
>> and white is not hot to the bulb when I activate the turn signal. I tried
>> jumping wires from the relay to various places along the wire harness. Just
>> give me carbs to clean instead! Graham
>>
>>  On Aug 26, 2012, at 11:36 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:
>>
>>  Graham, any luck on finding the bad wire?
>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>> --
>> *From: *"Allen Thomas" 
>> *Date: *Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:54:49 +
>> *To: *Nightwawk Lovers
>> *ReplyTo: *althomas...@gmail.com
>> *Subject: *Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>>
>> That is what the givi cases are for.
>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>> --
>> *From: *Kurt Nolte 
>> *Sender: *nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> *Date: *Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:25:24 -0400
>> *To: *
>> *ReplyTo: *nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> *Subject: *Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>>
>> You crazy lucky people and your blinker parties. I'm nine hours away. :/
>>
>> Javier, where do you fit the cooler on the bike? Inquiring minds...
>>
>> -Kurt
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>> To post to this group, send email to nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com.
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
>> nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> For more options, visit this group at
>> http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en.
>>
>> --
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>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Put my 750 Magna up for sale

[Paul]

Personally I'm not into the bumblebee look :-)

Sent from my Xoom Tablet (which explains the typos)
On Aug 27, 2012 10:06 AM, "Joey Kelley"  wrote:

> H.
>Now I just need to figure a way to fly out there (or take a
> bus) buy it and ride it back Hm. Or I could pick up one about 3.5
> hours away and ride that home.
> http://maine.craigslist.org/mcy/3210721858.html
> :-)
>   -Joey
>
> On Thu, Aug 23, 2012 at 11:50 PM, Paul LeBoutillier wrote:
>
>> *On Thu, Aug 23, 2012 at 9:35 PM, Allen Thomas 
>>  wrote:
>> *
>>
>>> *Why? I thought you liked it.*
>>
>> *
>>
>> I do! It's fun to ride and runs great. :)
>> *
>>
>>
>> Paul LeBoutillier
>> p...@ccontario.com
>> www.ccontario.com
>> *May the God of hope fill you with *
>> *all joy and peace as you trust in him, *
>> *so that you may overflow with hope *
>> *by the power of the Holy Spirit. Romans 15:13*
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>  --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>> To post to this group, send email to nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com.
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
>> nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> For more options, visit this group at
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>>
>
>
>
> --
> -Joey Kelley
> JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
> JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
> JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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>

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

[Hanghank]

Double check that.  I know only a little about LED’s but they are low load, and 
I believe the resistor goes across the two leads to the LED to increase the 
load, or current consumption.  Putting them in series with the power would 
reduce the voltage/current even more.  Ironically, current operated relays 
require additional load to be added to the circuit, negating the benefit of the 
reduced current.  No resistor needed except for current operated relays.  Why 
not add a “solid state” relay and enjoy the energy savings?

From: Ross M. Jamison 
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 12:13 PM
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com 
Cc: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

Graham,
Check to see that there are NO LED bulbs installed. Led & incandescent will not 
work together. You can make them but you will need a resistor between the led & 
power source.


Thank you,

Ross M. Jamison
Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 27, 2012, at 8:25 AM, Graham Rogers  wrote:


  thanks Kurt,  I'll come back to it again later - I have to put my mind on 
something else for a while, it's too boggled,  Graham 

  On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:21 AM, Kurt Nolte wrote:


Graham, to recap:

You have swapped the relay, and you know you have four working bulbs.

The relay supplies power to the signal switch. Internal contacts in the 
switch disconnect the parking light (not supplied by the relay) and connect the 
pathway to the proper signals side. The load of the bulbs draws a certain 
amount of current through the relay, which heats up a metal strip. This causes 
the strip to change shape, breaking the circuit. Current stops flowing, the 
strip cools and makes the circuit to start the cycle all over again.

If you have an issue with all four signals, the problem must lie somewhere 
upstream of the switch, including the switch itself. 

When the switch is OFF, you will read voltage at the switch from the relay; 
the meter makes the connection and allows current to flow. If you have voltage 
at the switch, try checking JUST continuity across switch contacts. Unplug the 
wire from the relay; if it is functioning properly you'll just get intermittent 
voltage, which isn't useful for checks.

Kurt


On Aug 27, 2012 8:21 AM, "Graham Rogers"  wrote:

  Allen,  I spent a couple of hours at it yesterday afternoon - couldn't 
find it.  I'll try again today and report back.  It seems that I have 12 v from 
the gray wire at the relay to the turn signal bulb but when I activate the turn 
signal it cancels the voltage in the gray wire (which may be it should if the 
gray wire carries voltage to the running lights and the running lights go out 
when activating the turn signal). However the green and white is not hot to the 
bulb when I activate the turn signal. I tried jumping wires from the relay to 
various places along the wire harness. Just give me carbs to clean instead! 
Graham 

  On Aug 26, 2012, at 11:36 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:


Graham, any luck on finding the bad wire? 
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T



From: "Allen Thomas"  
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:54:49 +
To: Nightwawk Lovers
ReplyTo: althomas...@gmail.com 
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

That is what the givi cases are for. 
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T



From: Kurt Nolte  
Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com 
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:25:24 -0400
To: 
ReplyTo: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

You crazy lucky people and your blinker parties. I'm nine hours away. 
:/ 

Javier, where do you fit the cooler on the bike? Inquiring minds...

-Kurt

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  To pos

[Nighthawk Lovers] No Kill Switch

[Jaybird248]

In contrast to others on this group, I don't use the kill switch. It would be 
too easy to forget to also turn the key off and to return to a dead battery 
drained by the headlight. Not that it's never been used. When I first joined my 
rider club, I returned from lunch with the group to find a dead bike. Turned 
over but didn't fire. Of course, everyone else was mounted up, ready to go.  I 
panicked, of course, until one guy walked casually to my bike, and flipped the 
kill button on, as everyone else guffawed. It was a little trick they play on 
new members. 
Haven't used it since, though. On my own bike, that is. 

Jay S
92 NH750
South Florida

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

[Ross M. Jamison]

Graham,
Check to see that there are NO LED bulbs installed. Led & incandescent will not 
work together. You can make them but you will need a resistor between the led & 
power source.

Thank you,

Ross M. Jamison
Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 27, 2012, at 8:25 AM, Graham Rogers  wrote:

> thanks Kurt,  I'll come back to it again later - I have to put my mind on 
> something else for a while, it's too boggled,  Graham
> 
> On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:21 AM, Kurt Nolte wrote:
> 
>> Graham, to recap:
>> 
>> You have swapped the relay, and you know you have four working bulbs.
>> 
>> The relay supplies power to the signal switch. Internal contacts in the 
>> switch disconnect the parking light (not supplied by the relay) and connect 
>> the pathway to the proper signals side. The load of the bulbs draws a 
>> certain amount of current through the relay, which heats up a metal strip. 
>> This causes the strip to change shape, breaking the circuit. Current stops 
>> flowing, the strip cools and makes the circuit to start the cycle all over 
>> again.
>> 
>> If you have an issue with all four signals, the problem must lie somewhere 
>> upstream of the switch, including the switch itself.
>> 
>> When the switch is OFF, you will read voltage at the switch from the relay; 
>> the meter makes the connection and allows current to flow. If you have 
>> voltage at the switch, try checking JUST continuity across switch contacts. 
>> Unplug the wire from the relay; if it is functioning properly you'll just 
>> get intermittent voltage, which isn't useful for checks.
>> 
>> Kurt
>> On Aug 27, 2012 8:21 AM, "Graham Rogers"  wrote:
>> Allen,  I spent a couple of hours at it yesterday afternoon - couldn't find 
>> it.  I'll try again today and report back.  It seems that I have 12 v from 
>> the gray wire at the relay to the turn signal bulb but when I activate the 
>> turn signal it cancels the voltage in the gray wire (which may be it should 
>> if the gray wire carries voltage to the running lights and the running 
>> lights go out when activating the turn signal). However the green and white 
>> is not hot to the bulb when I activate the turn signal. I tried jumping 
>> wires from the relay to various places along the wire harness. Just give me 
>> carbs to clean instead! Graham
>> 
>> On Aug 26, 2012, at 11:36 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:
>> 
>>> Graham, any luck on finding the bad wire?
>>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>>> From: "Allen Thomas" 
>>> Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:54:49 +
>>> To: Nightwawk Lovers
>>> ReplyTo: althomas...@gmail.com
>>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>>> 
>>> That is what the givi cases are for.
>>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>>> From: Kurt Nolte 
>>> Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>>> Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:25:24 -0400
>>> To: 
>>> ReplyTo: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>>> 
>>> You crazy lucky people and your blinker parties. I'm nine hours away. :/
>>> 
>>> Javier, where do you fit the cooler on the bike? Inquiring minds...
>>> 
>>> -Kurt
>>> 
>>> -- 
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>> 
>> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Put my 750 Magna up for sale

[Joey Kelley]

H.
   Now I just need to figure a way to fly out there (or take a bus)
buy it and ride it back Hm. Or I could pick up one about 3.5 hours
away and ride that home.
http://maine.craigslist.org/mcy/3210721858.html
:-)
  -Joey

On Thu, Aug 23, 2012 at 11:50 PM, Paul LeBoutillier wrote:

> *On Thu, Aug 23, 2012 at 9:35 PM, Allen Thomas 
>  wrote:
> *
>
>> *Why? I thought you liked it.*
>
> *
>
> I do! It's fun to ride and runs great. :)
> *
>
>
> Paul LeBoutillier
> p...@ccontario.com
> www.ccontario.com
> *May the God of hope fill you with *
> *all joy and peace as you trust in him, *
> *so that you may overflow with hope *
> *by the power of the Holy Spirit. Romans 15:13*
>
>
>
>
>
>  --
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-- 
-Joey Kelley
JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My first 'on the road' failure

[Paul]

I guess I'm the odd man out because I use the kill switch occasionally. :-)

Sent from my Xoom Tablet (which explains the typos)
On Aug 27, 2012 9:22 AM, "Graham Rogers"  wrote:

> I never use the kill switch.
>
> On Aug 27, 2012, at 10:10 AM, Joey Kelley wrote:
>
> > Am I the only one (based upon Allen's and my Dad's comments yesterday)
> > that automatically and with reflex hits the kill switch every time I
> > get off the bike? Even when I'm going to shut the key off?
> > -Joey
> >
> > On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 10:07 AM, Allen Thomas 
> wrote:
> >> The last time we rode up to Graham's house I inadvertently hit the kill
> switch, of course I was the tail gunner, and Javier and Jason just kept
> getting on it. I figured it out rather quickly though thoughts of a tow
> 100+ miles went through my mind.
> >> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
> >>
> >> -Original Message-
> >> From: Joey Kelley 
> >> Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> >> Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 09:47:43
> >> To: 
> >> Reply-To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> >> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] My first 'on the road' failure
> >>
> >> All,
> >>For the first time yesterday I experienced a failure on the bike,
> mid ride.
> >>Background: Dad and I took off on a 250 mile road trip yesterday,
> >> from the general Bangor, Maine area to the town of Jackman, ME.
> >> Jackman is the last town before the Canadian border when heading
> >> Northwest out of the state of Maine.
> >>As we were beginning the ride home, we were blasting up a hill
> >> when all of a sudden, the 1000 just quit. No backfiring, no weird
> >> running just stopped. Like I'd hit the kill switch.
> >>As soon as I got over to the side of the road, I did the normal
> >> troubleshooting - the starter wouldn't crank, turning the key on and
> >> off didn't help. I immediately figured it was electrical, since if it
> >> had been anything else the failure wouldn't have been so abrupt. Dad
> >> stopped, circled around and was immediately concerned as soon as he
> >> saw me with the bike in the dirt on the side of the road. The good
> >> news was - with my handy leatherman, I already had the side panel off
> >> and had found the issue.
> >> The ignition fuse had literally vibrated its way out of the
> >> holder. It was half in, half out and had slid about a half inch
> >> towards the rear of the bike. I slid the fuse back in and with Dad's
> >> suggestion used the pliers part of the leatherman to give a quick
> >> retightening of all the fuse holding clips then simply turned the key
> >> and kill switch back on and the bike fired back up.
> >>  Phew! 125 miles from home was not when I wanted to have
> >> something like this happen - but at the same time at least it was
> >> minor.
> >>  This is the first time either of my two bikes have scared me
> >> like this - but at least it was minor.
> >>  Two comments for you all: Carry a leatherman at all times and
> >> check your fuse holders!
> >>   -Joey
> >> PS: It's actually a Stanley brand multi-tool I carry, but I use a
> >> leatherman pouch since they are more rugged:
> >>
> http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=NEW%5FPROD%5FKNIVES&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=84-519&SDesc=Stanley%AE+12+in+1+Multi%2DTool
> >>
> >> --
> >> -Joey Kelley
> >> JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
> >> JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
> >> JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow
> >>
> >> --
> >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
> >> To post to this group, send email to nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com.
> >> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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> >>
> >> --
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> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > -Joey Kelley
> > JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
> > JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
> > JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow
> >
> > --
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>
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> To pos

[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Wiring diagrams

[ewun]

Consider this another vote for the 750 diagram.  Thanks Kurt!
Eric

On Aug 27, 3:29 am, Dave duChene  wrote:
> Please consider this reply as a second vote !
> Dave
>
> On 27 August 2012 07:08, Kurt Nolte  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Not yet, haven't done it. I have the scans I need to start the diagrams
> > listed. I'll take that as a vote for the 750 diagram. :p
>
> > Kurt
> > On Aug 27, 2012 6:05 AM, "Dave duChene"  wrote:
>
> >> is there a link to the 750 ?
>
> >> On 26 August 2012 22:38, Kurt Nolte  wrote:
>
> >>> Alright, folks. I have good scans of the CB550, CB700s, and 90s+ CB750.
> >>> Which one should I tackle next?
>
> >>>  -Kurt
>
> >>> On Fri, Aug 24, 2012 at 1:26 PM, Kyle Munz  wrote:
>
>  I'll scan it in this wknd for ya.
>
>  -Kyle
>
>  On Fri, Aug 24, 2012 at 10:11 AM, Kurt Nolte 
>  wrote:
>
> > I plan to do the CB550 next, possibly this weekend.
>
> > Kyle, I need a rescan of the 700s in either jpg, tiff or png format.
> > PDF didn't work.
>
> > Kurt
> > On Aug 24, 2012 1:55 AM, "Gibs"  wrote:
>
> >> Sweet thanks! :)
>
> >> On Wednesday, August 22, 2012 10:35:03 PM UTC-4, Kurt Nolte wrote:
>
> >>> CB650sc done. About three hours' work, but I wasn't really dedicated
> >>> to it.
>
> >>>https://docs.google.com/open?**id=**0B5rhwMkJQ5ORakJxZnk2UlZCS0U
>
> >>> Feel free to download, print and share. That's a full quality
> >>> 7000x5340 image @ 600 dpi, so it's a nearly 10mb file.
>
> >>> -Kurt
>
> >>>  --
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My first 'on the road' failure

[Graham Rogers]

I never use the kill switch.

On Aug 27, 2012, at 10:10 AM, Joey Kelley wrote:

> Am I the only one (based upon Allen's and my Dad's comments yesterday)
> that automatically and with reflex hits the kill switch every time I
> get off the bike? Even when I'm going to shut the key off?
> -Joey
> 
> On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 10:07 AM, Allen Thomas  wrote:
>> The last time we rode up to Graham's house I inadvertently hit the kill 
>> switch, of course I was the tail gunner, and Javier and Jason just kept 
>> getting on it. I figured it out rather quickly though thoughts of a tow 100+ 
>> miles went through my mind.
>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Joey Kelley 
>> Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 09:47:43
>> To: 
>> Reply-To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] My first 'on the road' failure
>> 
>> All,
>>For the first time yesterday I experienced a failure on the bike, mid 
>> ride.
>>Background: Dad and I took off on a 250 mile road trip yesterday,
>> from the general Bangor, Maine area to the town of Jackman, ME.
>> Jackman is the last town before the Canadian border when heading
>> Northwest out of the state of Maine.
>>As we were beginning the ride home, we were blasting up a hill
>> when all of a sudden, the 1000 just quit. No backfiring, no weird
>> running just stopped. Like I'd hit the kill switch.
>>As soon as I got over to the side of the road, I did the normal
>> troubleshooting - the starter wouldn't crank, turning the key on and
>> off didn't help. I immediately figured it was electrical, since if it
>> had been anything else the failure wouldn't have been so abrupt. Dad
>> stopped, circled around and was immediately concerned as soon as he
>> saw me with the bike in the dirt on the side of the road. The good
>> news was - with my handy leatherman, I already had the side panel off
>> and had found the issue.
>> The ignition fuse had literally vibrated its way out of the
>> holder. It was half in, half out and had slid about a half inch
>> towards the rear of the bike. I slid the fuse back in and with Dad's
>> suggestion used the pliers part of the leatherman to give a quick
>> retightening of all the fuse holding clips then simply turned the key
>> and kill switch back on and the bike fired back up.
>>  Phew! 125 miles from home was not when I wanted to have
>> something like this happen - but at the same time at least it was
>> minor.
>>  This is the first time either of my two bikes have scared me
>> like this - but at least it was minor.
>>  Two comments for you all: Carry a leatherman at all times and
>> check your fuse holders!
>>   -Joey
>> PS: It's actually a Stanley brand multi-tool I carry, but I use a
>> leatherman pouch since they are more rugged:
>> http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=NEW%5FPROD%5FKNIVES&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=84-519&SDesc=Stanley%AE+12+in+1+Multi%2DTool
>> 
>> --
>> -Joey Kelley
>> JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
>> JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
>> JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow
>> 
>> --
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>> 
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>> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> -Joey Kelley
> JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
> JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
> JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow
> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My first 'on the road' failure

[paul annen]

i also use the kill switch, and have had the same cresent multi tool... but
i belt the thin lever for the pliers... not a bad too to have around tho

On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 10:16 AM, Kyle Munz  wrote:

> The time my 700 died on me was the same issue, a fuse. It didn't pop or
> fall out, but the glue between the glass tube and the metal endcap had worn
> out and the fuse physically came apart and broke the circuit. I didn't have
> a screwdriver on me at the time to open the fuseblock so I had to push the
> bike the last mile home. It doesn't matter how cool your bike looks nobody
> looks cool pushing a bike, I may have left my helmet on.
> I now have the stock toolkit, as well as my crescentwrench multitool. I
> saw it at target for $10 and thought it was just another
> gimmick-of-the-minute but figured it would be good for a laugh and picked
> it up. It's actually proven quite useful.
> [image: http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-17665666401044_2221_94780527]
>
> -Kyle
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 9:10 AM, Joey Kelley  wrote:
>
>> Am I the only one (based upon Allen's and my Dad's comments yesterday)
>> that automatically and with reflex hits the kill switch every time I
>> get off the bike? Even when I'm going to shut the key off?
>>  -Joey
>>
>> On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 10:07 AM, Allen Thomas 
>> wrote:
>> > The last time we rode up to Graham's house I inadvertently hit the kill
>> switch, of course I was the tail gunner, and Javier and Jason just kept
>> getting on it. I figured it out rather quickly though thoughts of a tow
>> 100+ miles went through my mind.
>> > Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>> >
>> > -Original Message-
>> > From: Joey Kelley 
>> > Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> > Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 09:47:43
>> > To: 
>> > Reply-To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] My first 'on the road' failure
>> >
>> > All,
>> > For the first time yesterday I experienced a failure on the bike,
>> mid ride.
>> > Background: Dad and I took off on a 250 mile road trip yesterday,
>> > from the general Bangor, Maine area to the town of Jackman, ME.
>> > Jackman is the last town before the Canadian border when heading
>> > Northwest out of the state of Maine.
>> > As we were beginning the ride home, we were blasting up a hill
>> > when all of a sudden, the 1000 just quit. No backfiring, no weird
>> > running just stopped. Like I'd hit the kill switch.
>> > As soon as I got over to the side of the road, I did the normal
>> > troubleshooting - the starter wouldn't crank, turning the key on and
>> > off didn't help. I immediately figured it was electrical, since if it
>> > had been anything else the failure wouldn't have been so abrupt. Dad
>> > stopped, circled around and was immediately concerned as soon as he
>> > saw me with the bike in the dirt on the side of the road. The good
>> > news was - with my handy leatherman, I already had the side panel off
>> > and had found the issue.
>> >  The ignition fuse had literally vibrated its way out of the
>> > holder. It was half in, half out and had slid about a half inch
>> > towards the rear of the bike. I slid the fuse back in and with Dad's
>> > suggestion used the pliers part of the leatherman to give a quick
>> > retightening of all the fuse holding clips then simply turned the key
>> > and kill switch back on and the bike fired back up.
>> >   Phew! 125 miles from home was not when I wanted to have
>> > something like this happen - but at the same time at least it was
>> > minor.
>> >   This is the first time either of my two bikes have scared me
>> > like this - but at least it was minor.
>> >   Two comments for you all: Carry a leatherman at all times and
>> > check your fuse holders!
>> >-Joey
>> > PS: It's actually a Stanley brand multi-tool I carry, but I use a
>> > leatherman pouch since they are more rugged:
>> >
>> http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=NEW%5FPROD%5FKNIVES&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=84-519&SDesc=Stanley%AE+12+in+1+Multi%2DTool
>> >
>> > --
>> > -Joey Kelley
>> > JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
>> > JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
>> > JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow
>> >
>> > --
>> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>> > To post to this group, send email to nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com.
>> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
>> nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> > For more options, visit this group at
>> http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en.
>> >
>> > --
>> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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>> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
>> nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> > For more options, visit t

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My first 'on the road' failure

[Kyle Munz]

The time my 700 died on me was the same issue, a fuse. It didn't pop or
fall out, but the glue between the glass tube and the metal endcap had worn
out and the fuse physically came apart and broke the circuit. I didn't have
a screwdriver on me at the time to open the fuseblock so I had to push the
bike the last mile home. It doesn't matter how cool your bike looks nobody
looks cool pushing a bike, I may have left my helmet on.
I now have the stock toolkit, as well as my crescentwrench multitool. I saw
it at target for $10 and thought it was just another gimmick-of-the-minute
but figured it would be good for a laugh and picked it up. It's actually
proven quite useful.
[image: http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-17665666401044_2221_94780527]

-Kyle


On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 9:10 AM, Joey Kelley  wrote:

> Am I the only one (based upon Allen's and my Dad's comments yesterday)
> that automatically and with reflex hits the kill switch every time I
> get off the bike? Even when I'm going to shut the key off?
>  -Joey
>
> On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 10:07 AM, Allen Thomas 
> wrote:
> > The last time we rode up to Graham's house I inadvertently hit the kill
> switch, of course I was the tail gunner, and Javier and Jason just kept
> getting on it. I figured it out rather quickly though thoughts of a tow
> 100+ miles went through my mind.
> > Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Joey Kelley 
> > Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> > Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 09:47:43
> > To: 
> > Reply-To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] My first 'on the road' failure
> >
> > All,
> > For the first time yesterday I experienced a failure on the bike,
> mid ride.
> > Background: Dad and I took off on a 250 mile road trip yesterday,
> > from the general Bangor, Maine area to the town of Jackman, ME.
> > Jackman is the last town before the Canadian border when heading
> > Northwest out of the state of Maine.
> > As we were beginning the ride home, we were blasting up a hill
> > when all of a sudden, the 1000 just quit. No backfiring, no weird
> > running just stopped. Like I'd hit the kill switch.
> > As soon as I got over to the side of the road, I did the normal
> > troubleshooting - the starter wouldn't crank, turning the key on and
> > off didn't help. I immediately figured it was electrical, since if it
> > had been anything else the failure wouldn't have been so abrupt. Dad
> > stopped, circled around and was immediately concerned as soon as he
> > saw me with the bike in the dirt on the side of the road. The good
> > news was - with my handy leatherman, I already had the side panel off
> > and had found the issue.
> >  The ignition fuse had literally vibrated its way out of the
> > holder. It was half in, half out and had slid about a half inch
> > towards the rear of the bike. I slid the fuse back in and with Dad's
> > suggestion used the pliers part of the leatherman to give a quick
> > retightening of all the fuse holding clips then simply turned the key
> > and kill switch back on and the bike fired back up.
> >   Phew! 125 miles from home was not when I wanted to have
> > something like this happen - but at the same time at least it was
> > minor.
> >   This is the first time either of my two bikes have scared me
> > like this - but at least it was minor.
> >   Two comments for you all: Carry a leatherman at all times and
> > check your fuse holders!
> >-Joey
> > PS: It's actually a Stanley brand multi-tool I carry, but I use a
> > leatherman pouch since they are more rugged:
> >
> http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=NEW%5FPROD%5FKNIVES&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=84-519&SDesc=Stanley%AE+12+in+1+Multi%2DTool
> >
> > --
> > -Joey Kelley
> > JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
> > JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
> > JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow
> >
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
> > To post to this group, send email to nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en.
> >
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
> > To post to this group, send email to nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en.
> >
>
>
>
> --
> -Joey Kelley
> JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
> JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
> JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Gro

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My first 'on the road' failure

[Allen Thomas]

Nope I use the kill switch also. Cheap anti-theft device against the stupid 
thief, petcock on off too.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-Original Message-
From: Joey Kelley 
Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 10:10:09 
To: 
Reply-To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My first 'on the road' failure

Am I the only one (based upon Allen's and my Dad's comments yesterday)
that automatically and with reflex hits the kill switch every time I
get off the bike? Even when I'm going to shut the key off?
 -Joey

On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 10:07 AM, Allen Thomas  wrote:
> The last time we rode up to Graham's house I inadvertently hit the kill 
> switch, of course I was the tail gunner, and Javier and Jason just kept 
> getting on it. I figured it out rather quickly though thoughts of a tow 100+ 
> miles went through my mind.
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Joey Kelley 
> Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 09:47:43
> To: 
> Reply-To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] My first 'on the road' failure
>
> All,
> For the first time yesterday I experienced a failure on the bike, mid 
> ride.
> Background: Dad and I took off on a 250 mile road trip yesterday,
> from the general Bangor, Maine area to the town of Jackman, ME.
> Jackman is the last town before the Canadian border when heading
> Northwest out of the state of Maine.
> As we were beginning the ride home, we were blasting up a hill
> when all of a sudden, the 1000 just quit. No backfiring, no weird
> running just stopped. Like I'd hit the kill switch.
> As soon as I got over to the side of the road, I did the normal
> troubleshooting - the starter wouldn't crank, turning the key on and
> off didn't help. I immediately figured it was electrical, since if it
> had been anything else the failure wouldn't have been so abrupt. Dad
> stopped, circled around and was immediately concerned as soon as he
> saw me with the bike in the dirt on the side of the road. The good
> news was - with my handy leatherman, I already had the side panel off
> and had found the issue.
>  The ignition fuse had literally vibrated its way out of the
> holder. It was half in, half out and had slid about a half inch
> towards the rear of the bike. I slid the fuse back in and with Dad's
> suggestion used the pliers part of the leatherman to give a quick
> retightening of all the fuse holding clips then simply turned the key
> and kill switch back on and the bike fired back up.
>   Phew! 125 miles from home was not when I wanted to have
> something like this happen - but at the same time at least it was
> minor.
>   This is the first time either of my two bikes have scared me
> like this - but at least it was minor.
>   Two comments for you all: Carry a leatherman at all times and
> check your fuse holders!
>-Joey
> PS: It's actually a Stanley brand multi-tool I carry, but I use a
> leatherman pouch since they are more rugged:
> http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=NEW%5FPROD%5FKNIVES&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=84-519&SDesc=Stanley%AE+12+in+1+Multi%2DTool
>
> --
> -Joey Kelley
> JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
> JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
> JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
> To post to this group, send email to nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
> nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at 
> http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en.
>
> --
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> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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> For more options, visit this group at 
> http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en.
>



-- 
-Joey Kelley
JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow

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F

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My first 'on the road' failure

[Kurt Nolte]

Nope, I do that too. Shut off fuel, hit kill switch, then key.

Starting is fuel, key, kill, start.

Kurt
On Aug 27, 2012 10:10 AM, "Joey Kelley"  wrote:

> Am I the only one (based upon Allen's and my Dad's comments yesterday)
> that automatically and with reflex hits the kill switch every time I
> get off the bike? Even when I'm going to shut the key off?
>  -Joey
>
> On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 10:07 AM, Allen Thomas 
> wrote:
> > The last time we rode up to Graham's house I inadvertently hit the kill
> switch, of course I was the tail gunner, and Javier and Jason just kept
> getting on it. I figured it out rather quickly though thoughts of a tow
> 100+ miles went through my mind.
> > Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Joey Kelley 
> > Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> > Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 09:47:43
> > To: 
> > Reply-To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] My first 'on the road' failure
> >
> > All,
> > For the first time yesterday I experienced a failure on the bike,
> mid ride.
> > Background: Dad and I took off on a 250 mile road trip yesterday,
> > from the general Bangor, Maine area to the town of Jackman, ME.
> > Jackman is the last town before the Canadian border when heading
> > Northwest out of the state of Maine.
> > As we were beginning the ride home, we were blasting up a hill
> > when all of a sudden, the 1000 just quit. No backfiring, no weird
> > running just stopped. Like I'd hit the kill switch.
> > As soon as I got over to the side of the road, I did the normal
> > troubleshooting - the starter wouldn't crank, turning the key on and
> > off didn't help. I immediately figured it was electrical, since if it
> > had been anything else the failure wouldn't have been so abrupt. Dad
> > stopped, circled around and was immediately concerned as soon as he
> > saw me with the bike in the dirt on the side of the road. The good
> > news was - with my handy leatherman, I already had the side panel off
> > and had found the issue.
> >  The ignition fuse had literally vibrated its way out of the
> > holder. It was half in, half out and had slid about a half inch
> > towards the rear of the bike. I slid the fuse back in and with Dad's
> > suggestion used the pliers part of the leatherman to give a quick
> > retightening of all the fuse holding clips then simply turned the key
> > and kill switch back on and the bike fired back up.
> >   Phew! 125 miles from home was not when I wanted to have
> > something like this happen - but at the same time at least it was
> > minor.
> >   This is the first time either of my two bikes have scared me
> > like this - but at least it was minor.
> >   Two comments for you all: Carry a leatherman at all times and
> > check your fuse holders!
> >-Joey
> > PS: It's actually a Stanley brand multi-tool I carry, but I use a
> > leatherman pouch since they are more rugged:
> >
> http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=NEW%5FPROD%5FKNIVES&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=84-519&SDesc=Stanley%AE+12+in+1+Multi%2DTool
> >
> > --
> > -Joey Kelley
> > JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
> > JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
> > JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow
> >
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
> > To post to this group, send email to nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > For more options, visit this group at
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> >
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
> > To post to this group, send email to nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en.
> >
>
>
>
> --
> -Joey Kelley
> JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
> JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
> JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
> To post to this group, send email to nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
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> For more options, visit this group at
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>
>

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[Nighthawk Lovers] After market Side cover

[Shields, Zachary A TSgt USAF ANG 124WG/LGRF]

I have been in contact with a gentleman on line about getting a aftermarket 
ride side cover for my 1985 CB700SC from his info on E-Bay they are cast from 
his original.
-   Has anyone used one or seen one?
-   How did it fit ?
-   How hard was it to prep up for paint with the gel coat ?
 Thanks for any information.

ZACH


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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My first 'on the road' failure

[Joey Kelley]

Am I the only one (based upon Allen's and my Dad's comments yesterday)
that automatically and with reflex hits the kill switch every time I
get off the bike? Even when I'm going to shut the key off?
 -Joey

On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 10:07 AM, Allen Thomas  wrote:
> The last time we rode up to Graham's house I inadvertently hit the kill 
> switch, of course I was the tail gunner, and Javier and Jason just kept 
> getting on it. I figured it out rather quickly though thoughts of a tow 100+ 
> miles went through my mind.
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Joey Kelley 
> Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 09:47:43
> To: 
> Reply-To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] My first 'on the road' failure
>
> All,
> For the first time yesterday I experienced a failure on the bike, mid 
> ride.
> Background: Dad and I took off on a 250 mile road trip yesterday,
> from the general Bangor, Maine area to the town of Jackman, ME.
> Jackman is the last town before the Canadian border when heading
> Northwest out of the state of Maine.
> As we were beginning the ride home, we were blasting up a hill
> when all of a sudden, the 1000 just quit. No backfiring, no weird
> running just stopped. Like I'd hit the kill switch.
> As soon as I got over to the side of the road, I did the normal
> troubleshooting - the starter wouldn't crank, turning the key on and
> off didn't help. I immediately figured it was electrical, since if it
> had been anything else the failure wouldn't have been so abrupt. Dad
> stopped, circled around and was immediately concerned as soon as he
> saw me with the bike in the dirt on the side of the road. The good
> news was - with my handy leatherman, I already had the side panel off
> and had found the issue.
>  The ignition fuse had literally vibrated its way out of the
> holder. It was half in, half out and had slid about a half inch
> towards the rear of the bike. I slid the fuse back in and with Dad's
> suggestion used the pliers part of the leatherman to give a quick
> retightening of all the fuse holding clips then simply turned the key
> and kill switch back on and the bike fired back up.
>   Phew! 125 miles from home was not when I wanted to have
> something like this happen - but at the same time at least it was
> minor.
>   This is the first time either of my two bikes have scared me
> like this - but at least it was minor.
>   Two comments for you all: Carry a leatherman at all times and
> check your fuse holders!
>-Joey
> PS: It's actually a Stanley brand multi-tool I carry, but I use a
> leatherman pouch since they are more rugged:
> http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=NEW%5FPROD%5FKNIVES&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=84-519&SDesc=Stanley%AE+12+in+1+Multi%2DTool
>
> --
> -Joey Kelley
> JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
> JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
> JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
> To post to this group, send email to nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
> nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at 
> http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en.
>
> --
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> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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> For more options, visit this group at 
> http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en.
>



-- 
-Joey Kelley
JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My first 'on the road' failure

[Allen Thomas]

The last time we rode up to Graham's house I inadvertently hit the kill switch, 
of course I was the tail gunner, and Javier and Jason just kept getting on it. 
I figured it out rather quickly though thoughts of a tow 100+ miles went 
through my mind.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-Original Message-
From: Joey Kelley 
Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 09:47:43 
To: 
Reply-To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] My first 'on the road' failure

All,
For the first time yesterday I experienced a failure on the bike, mid ride.
Background: Dad and I took off on a 250 mile road trip yesterday,
from the general Bangor, Maine area to the town of Jackman, ME.
Jackman is the last town before the Canadian border when heading
Northwest out of the state of Maine.
As we were beginning the ride home, we were blasting up a hill
when all of a sudden, the 1000 just quit. No backfiring, no weird
running just stopped. Like I'd hit the kill switch.
As soon as I got over to the side of the road, I did the normal
troubleshooting - the starter wouldn't crank, turning the key on and
off didn't help. I immediately figured it was electrical, since if it
had been anything else the failure wouldn't have been so abrupt. Dad
stopped, circled around and was immediately concerned as soon as he
saw me with the bike in the dirt on the side of the road. The good
news was - with my handy leatherman, I already had the side panel off
and had found the issue.
 The ignition fuse had literally vibrated its way out of the
holder. It was half in, half out and had slid about a half inch
towards the rear of the bike. I slid the fuse back in and with Dad's
suggestion used the pliers part of the leatherman to give a quick
retightening of all the fuse holding clips then simply turned the key
and kill switch back on and the bike fired back up.
  Phew! 125 miles from home was not when I wanted to have
something like this happen - but at the same time at least it was
minor.
  This is the first time either of my two bikes have scared me
like this - but at least it was minor.
  Two comments for you all: Carry a leatherman at all times and
check your fuse holders!
   -Joey
PS: It's actually a Stanley brand multi-tool I carry, but I use a
leatherman pouch since they are more rugged:
http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=NEW%5FPROD%5FKNIVES&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=84-519&SDesc=Stanley%AE+12+in+1+Multi%2DTool

-- 
-Joey Kelley
JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Not entirely sure if I should Laugh or Cry at this one...

[Graham Rogers]

pre 1979 carbs on a GS550

On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:31 AM, Joey Kelley wrote:

> Graham,
> I looked at the odometer :-)
> Didn't grab a shot though.
> Note the creative use of a license plate as a replacement
> side panel on the left hand side.
> Regarding the year - look at the top of the heads - those
> aren't the same style I have on my 1000 - I assumed that they were
> newer.
> On the other hand - the carbs look close to mine.
>-Joey
> 
> On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 9:23 AM, Graham Rogers
>  wrote:
>> where did you see the mileage Joey.  I think it's a '77 - '79.  Seat, side 
>> covers, tail piece and tank give it away,  Graham
>> 
>> On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:16 AM, Joey Kelley wrote:
>> 
>>> GS-550 - 25K on the clock - thinking its the next Generation from my
>>> GS1000 - head design is slightly different. I assume since a mechanic
>>> had it, some major component must have gone.
>>>-Joey
>>> 
>>> On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 9:06 AM, Kyle Munz  wrote:
 I'm thinking "cry" is the correct answer.
 
 -Kyle
 
 
 On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 7:53 AM, Joey Kelley  wrote:
> 
> Recycling at its finest?
> 
> https://plus.google.com/photos/111510844948250570083/albums/5781334628783128737?authkey=CMaxwfHTnP2rJw
> -Joey
> 
> --
> -Joey Kelley
> JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
> JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
> JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow
> 
> --
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>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> --
>>> -Joey Kelley
>>> JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
>>> JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
>>> JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow
>>> 
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>> 
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> 
> 
> 
> -- 
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> JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
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> JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow
> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Not entirely sure if I should Laugh or Cry at this one...

[Allen Thomas]

Poor old zuki.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-Original Message-
From: Joey Kelley 
Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 08:53:24 
To: 
Reply-To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Not entirely sure if I should Laugh or Cry at this 
one...

Recycling at its finest?
https://plus.google.com/photos/111510844948250570083/albums/5781334628783128737?authkey=CMaxwfHTnP2rJw
  -Joey

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[Nighthawk Lovers] My first 'on the road' failure

[Joey Kelley]

All,
For the first time yesterday I experienced a failure on the bike, mid ride.
Background: Dad and I took off on a 250 mile road trip yesterday,
from the general Bangor, Maine area to the town of Jackman, ME.
Jackman is the last town before the Canadian border when heading
Northwest out of the state of Maine.
As we were beginning the ride home, we were blasting up a hill
when all of a sudden, the 1000 just quit. No backfiring, no weird
running just stopped. Like I'd hit the kill switch.
As soon as I got over to the side of the road, I did the normal
troubleshooting - the starter wouldn't crank, turning the key on and
off didn't help. I immediately figured it was electrical, since if it
had been anything else the failure wouldn't have been so abrupt. Dad
stopped, circled around and was immediately concerned as soon as he
saw me with the bike in the dirt on the side of the road. The good
news was - with my handy leatherman, I already had the side panel off
and had found the issue.
 The ignition fuse had literally vibrated its way out of the
holder. It was half in, half out and had slid about a half inch
towards the rear of the bike. I slid the fuse back in and with Dad's
suggestion used the pliers part of the leatherman to give a quick
retightening of all the fuse holding clips then simply turned the key
and kill switch back on and the bike fired back up.
  Phew! 125 miles from home was not when I wanted to have
something like this happen - but at the same time at least it was
minor.
  This is the first time either of my two bikes have scared me
like this - but at least it was minor.
  Two comments for you all: Carry a leatherman at all times and
check your fuse holders!
   -Joey
PS: It's actually a Stanley brand multi-tool I carry, but I use a
leatherman pouch since they are more rugged:
http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=NEW%5FPROD%5FKNIVES&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=84-519&SDesc=Stanley%AE+12+in+1+Multi%2DTool

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JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

[Kurt Nolte]

No problem. I'm studying this stuff, stop me if I get too technical.

Kurt
On Aug 27, 2012 9:25 AM, "Graham Rogers"  wrote:

> thanks Kurt,  I'll come back to it again later - I have to put my mind on
> something else for a while, it's too boggled,  Graham
>
> On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:21 AM, Kurt Nolte wrote:
>
> Graham, to recap:
>
> You have swapped the relay, and you know you have four working bulbs.
>
> The relay supplies power to the signal switch. Internal contacts in the
> switch disconnect the parking light (not supplied by the relay) and connect
> the pathway to the proper signals side. The load of the bulbs draws a
> certain amount of current through the relay, which heats up a metal strip.
> This causes the strip to change shape, breaking the circuit. Current stops
> flowing, the strip cools and makes the circuit to start the cycle all over
> again.
>
> If you have an issue with all four signals, the problem must lie somewhere
> upstream of the switch, including the switch itself.
>
> When the switch is OFF, you will read voltage at the switch from the
> relay; the meter makes the connection and allows current to flow. If you
> have voltage at the switch, try checking JUST continuity across switch
> contacts. Unplug the wire from the relay; if it is functioning properly
> you'll just get intermittent voltage, which isn't useful for checks.
>
> Kurt
>  On Aug 27, 2012 8:21 AM, "Graham Rogers" 
> wrote:
>
>> Allen,  I spent a couple of hours at it yesterday afternoon - couldn't
>> find it.  I'll try again today and report back.  It seems that I have 12 v
>> from the gray wire at the relay to the turn signal bulb but when I activate
>> the turn signal it cancels the voltage in the gray wire (which may be it
>> should if the gray wire carries voltage to the running lights and the
>> running lights go out when activating the turn signal). However the green
>> and white is not hot to the bulb when I activate the turn signal. I tried
>> jumping wires from the relay to various places along the wire harness. Just
>> give me carbs to clean instead! Graham
>>
>> On Aug 26, 2012, at 11:36 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:
>>
>> Graham, any luck on finding the bad wire?
>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>> --
>> *From: * "Allen Thomas" 
>> *Date: *Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:54:49 +
>> *To: *Nightwawk Lovers
>> *ReplyTo: * althomas...@gmail.com
>> *Subject: *Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>>
>> That is what the givi cases are for.
>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>> --
>> *From: * Kurt Nolte 
>> *Sender: * nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> *Date: *Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:25:24 -0400
>> *To: *
>> *ReplyTo: * nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> *Subject: *Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>>
>> You crazy lucky people and your blinker parties. I'm nine hours away. :/
>>
>> Javier, where do you fit the cooler on the bike? Inquiring minds...
>>
>> -Kurt
>>
>> --
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>>
>>
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>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Not entirely sure if I should Laugh or Cry at this one...

[Joey Kelley]

Graham,
 I looked at the odometer :-)
 Didn't grab a shot though.
 Note the creative use of a license plate as a replacement
side panel on the left hand side.
 Regarding the year - look at the top of the heads - those
aren't the same style I have on my 1000 - I assumed that they were
newer.
 On the other hand - the carbs look close to mine.
-Joey

On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 9:23 AM, Graham Rogers
 wrote:
> where did you see the mileage Joey.  I think it's a '77 - '79.  Seat, side 
> covers, tail piece and tank give it away,  Graham
>
> On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:16 AM, Joey Kelley wrote:
>
>> GS-550 - 25K on the clock - thinking its the next Generation from my
>> GS1000 - head design is slightly different. I assume since a mechanic
>> had it, some major component must have gone.
>> -Joey
>>
>> On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 9:06 AM, Kyle Munz  wrote:
>>> I'm thinking "cry" is the correct answer.
>>>
>>> -Kyle
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 7:53 AM, Joey Kelley  wrote:

 Recycling at its finest?

 https://plus.google.com/photos/111510844948250570083/albums/5781334628783128737?authkey=CMaxwfHTnP2rJw
  -Joey

 --
 -Joey Kelley
 JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
 JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
 JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow

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>>>
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>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> -Joey Kelley
>> JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
>> JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
>> JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow
>>
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>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

[Graham Rogers]

thanks Kurt,  I'll come back to it again later - I have to put my mind on 
something else for a while, it's too boggled,  Graham

On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:21 AM, Kurt Nolte wrote:

> Graham, to recap:
> 
> You have swapped the relay, and you know you have four working bulbs.
> 
> The relay supplies power to the signal switch. Internal contacts in the 
> switch disconnect the parking light (not supplied by the relay) and connect 
> the pathway to the proper signals side. The load of the bulbs draws a certain 
> amount of current through the relay, which heats up a metal strip. This 
> causes the strip to change shape, breaking the circuit. Current stops 
> flowing, the strip cools and makes the circuit to start the cycle all over 
> again.
> 
> If you have an issue with all four signals, the problem must lie somewhere 
> upstream of the switch, including the switch itself.
> 
> When the switch is OFF, you will read voltage at the switch from the relay; 
> the meter makes the connection and allows current to flow. If you have 
> voltage at the switch, try checking JUST continuity across switch contacts. 
> Unplug the wire from the relay; if it is functioning properly you'll just get 
> intermittent voltage, which isn't useful for checks.
> 
> Kurt
> On Aug 27, 2012 8:21 AM, "Graham Rogers"  wrote:
> Allen,  I spent a couple of hours at it yesterday afternoon - couldn't find 
> it.  I'll try again today and report back.  It seems that I have 12 v from 
> the gray wire at the relay to the turn signal bulb but when I activate the 
> turn signal it cancels the voltage in the gray wire (which may be it should 
> if the gray wire carries voltage to the running lights and the running lights 
> go out when activating the turn signal). However the green and white is not 
> hot to the bulb when I activate the turn signal. I tried jumping wires from 
> the relay to various places along the wire harness. Just give me carbs to 
> clean instead! Graham
> 
> On Aug 26, 2012, at 11:36 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:
> 
>> Graham, any luck on finding the bad wire?
>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>> From: "Allen Thomas" 
>> Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:54:49 +
>> To: Nightwawk Lovers
>> ReplyTo: althomas...@gmail.com
>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>> 
>> That is what the givi cases are for.
>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>> From: Kurt Nolte 
>> Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:25:24 -0400
>> To: 
>> ReplyTo: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>> 
>> You crazy lucky people and your blinker parties. I'm nine hours away. :/
>> 
>> Javier, where do you fit the cooler on the bike? Inquiring minds...
>> 
>> -Kurt
>> 
>> -- 
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> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Not entirely sure if I should Laugh or Cry at this one...

[Graham Rogers]

where did you see the mileage Joey.  I think it's a '77 - '79.  Seat, side 
covers, tail piece and tank give it away,  Graham

On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:16 AM, Joey Kelley wrote:

> GS-550 - 25K on the clock - thinking its the next Generation from my
> GS1000 - head design is slightly different. I assume since a mechanic
> had it, some major component must have gone.
> -Joey
> 
> On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 9:06 AM, Kyle Munz  wrote:
>> I'm thinking "cry" is the correct answer.
>> 
>> -Kyle
>> 
>> 
>> On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 7:53 AM, Joey Kelley  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Recycling at its finest?
>>> 
>>> https://plus.google.com/photos/111510844948250570083/albums/5781334628783128737?authkey=CMaxwfHTnP2rJw
>>>  -Joey
>>> 
>>> --
>>> -Joey Kelley
>>> JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
>>> JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
>>> JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow
>>> 
>>> --
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>>> 
>> 
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> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> -Joey Kelley
> JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
> JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
> JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow
> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

[Kurt Nolte]

Graham, to recap:

You have swapped the relay, and you know you have four working bulbs.

The relay supplies power to the signal switch. Internal contacts in the
switch disconnect the parking light (not supplied by the relay) and connect
the pathway to the proper signals side. The load of the bulbs draws a
certain amount of current through the relay, which heats up a metal strip.
This causes the strip to change shape, breaking the circuit. Current stops
flowing, the strip cools and makes the circuit to start the cycle all over
again.

If you have an issue with all four signals, the problem must lie somewhere
upstream of the switch, including the switch itself.

When the switch is OFF, you will read voltage at the switch from the relay;
the meter makes the connection and allows current to flow. If you have
voltage at the switch, try checking JUST continuity across switch contacts.
Unplug the wire from the relay; if it is functioning properly you'll just
get intermittent voltage, which isn't useful for checks.

Kurt
 On Aug 27, 2012 8:21 AM, "Graham Rogers" 
wrote:

> Allen,  I spent a couple of hours at it yesterday afternoon - couldn't
> find it.  I'll try again today and report back.  It seems that I have 12 v
> from the gray wire at the relay to the turn signal bulb but when I activate
> the turn signal it cancels the voltage in the gray wire (which may be it
> should if the gray wire carries voltage to the running lights and the
> running lights go out when activating the turn signal). However the green
> and white is not hot to the bulb when I activate the turn signal. I tried
> jumping wires from the relay to various places along the wire harness. Just
> give me carbs to clean instead! Graham
>
> On Aug 26, 2012, at 11:36 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:
>
> Graham, any luck on finding the bad wire?
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
> --
> *From: * "Allen Thomas" 
> *Date: *Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:54:49 +
> *To: *Nightwawk Lovers
> *ReplyTo: * althomas...@gmail.com
> *Subject: *Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>
> That is what the givi cases are for.
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
> --
> *From: * Kurt Nolte 
> *Sender: * nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> *Date: *Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:25:24 -0400
> *To: *
> *ReplyTo: * nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> *Subject: *Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>
> You crazy lucky people and your blinker parties. I'm nine hours away. :/
>
> Javier, where do you fit the cooler on the bike? Inquiring minds...
>
> -Kurt
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Not entirely sure if I should Laugh or Cry at this one...

[Joey Kelley]

GS-550 - 25K on the clock - thinking its the next Generation from my
GS1000 - head design is slightly different. I assume since a mechanic
had it, some major component must have gone.
 -Joey

On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 9:06 AM, Kyle Munz  wrote:
> I'm thinking "cry" is the correct answer.
>
> -Kyle
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 7:53 AM, Joey Kelley  wrote:
>>
>> Recycling at its finest?
>>
>> https://plus.google.com/photos/111510844948250570083/albums/5781334628783128737?authkey=CMaxwfHTnP2rJw
>>   -Joey
>>
>> --
>> -Joey Kelley
>> JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
>> JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
>> JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow
>>
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JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Not entirely sure if I should Laugh or Cry at this one...

[Kyle Munz]

I'm thinking "cry" is the correct answer.

-Kyle


On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 7:53 AM, Joey Kelley  wrote:

> Recycling at its finest?
>
> https://plus.google.com/photos/111510844948250570083/albums/5781334628783128737?authkey=CMaxwfHTnP2rJw
>   -Joey
>
> --
> -Joey Kelley
> JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
> JoeyFixesComputers.com - Its What I Do!
> JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow
>
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[Nighthawk Lovers] Not entirely sure if I should Laugh or Cry at this one...

[Joey Kelley]

Recycling at its finest?
https://plus.google.com/photos/111510844948250570083/albums/5781334628783128737?authkey=CMaxwfHTnP2rJw
  -Joey

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

[Graham Rogers]

Allen,  I spent a couple of hours at it yesterday afternoon - couldn't find it. 
 I'll try again today and report back.  It seems that I have 12 v from the gray 
wire at the relay to the turn signal bulb but when I activate the turn signal 
it cancels the voltage in the gray wire (which may be it should if the gray 
wire carries voltage to the running lights and the running lights go out when 
activating the turn signal). However the green and white is not hot to the bulb 
when I activate the turn signal. I tried jumping wires from the relay to 
various places along the wire harness. Just give me carbs to clean instead! 
Graham

On Aug 26, 2012, at 11:36 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:

> Graham, any luck on finding the bad wire?
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
> From: "Allen Thomas" 
> Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:54:49 +
> To: Nightwawk Lovers
> ReplyTo: althomas...@gmail.com
> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
> 
> That is what the givi cases are for.
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
> From: Kurt Nolte 
> Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:25:24 -0400
> To: 
> ReplyTo: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
> 
> You crazy lucky people and your blinker parties. I'm nine hours away. :/
> 
> Javier, where do you fit the cooler on the bike? Inquiring minds...
> 
> -Kurt
> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Wiring diagrams

[Dave duChene]

Please consider this reply as a second vote !
Dave

On 27 August 2012 07:08, Kurt Nolte  wrote:

> Not yet, haven't done it. I have the scans I need to start the diagrams
> listed. I'll take that as a vote for the 750 diagram. :p
>
> Kurt
> On Aug 27, 2012 6:05 AM, "Dave duChene"  wrote:
>
>> is there a link to the 750 ?
>>
>> On 26 August 2012 22:38, Kurt Nolte  wrote:
>>
>>> Alright, folks. I have good scans of the CB550, CB700s, and 90s+ CB750.
>>> Which one should I tackle next?
>>>
>>>  -Kurt
>>>
>>> On Fri, Aug 24, 2012 at 1:26 PM, Kyle Munz  wrote:
>>>
 I'll scan it in this wknd for ya.

 -Kyle


 On Fri, Aug 24, 2012 at 10:11 AM, Kurt Nolte 
 wrote:

> I plan to do the CB550 next, possibly this weekend.
>
> Kyle, I need a rescan of the 700s in either jpg, tiff or png format.
> PDF didn't work.
>
> Kurt
> On Aug 24, 2012 1:55 AM, "Gibs"  wrote:
>
>> Sweet thanks! :)
>>
>> On Wednesday, August 22, 2012 10:35:03 PM UTC-4, Kurt Nolte wrote:
>>>
>>> CB650sc done. About three hours' work, but I wasn't really dedicated
>>> to it.
>>>
>>> https://docs.google.com/open?**id=**0B5rhwMkJQ5ORakJxZnk2UlZCS0U
>>>
>>> Feel free to download, print and share. That's a full quality
>>> 7000x5340 image @ 600 dpi, so it's a nearly 10mb file.
>>>
>>> -Kurt
>>>
>>>
>>>  --
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Wiring diagrams

[Kurt Nolte]

Not yet, haven't done it. I have the scans I need to start the diagrams
listed. I'll take that as a vote for the 750 diagram. :p

Kurt
On Aug 27, 2012 6:05 AM, "Dave duChene"  wrote:

> is there a link to the 750 ?
>
> On 26 August 2012 22:38, Kurt Nolte  wrote:
>
>> Alright, folks. I have good scans of the CB550, CB700s, and 90s+ CB750.
>> Which one should I tackle next?
>>
>> -Kurt
>>
>> On Fri, Aug 24, 2012 at 1:26 PM, Kyle Munz  wrote:
>>
>>> I'll scan it in this wknd for ya.
>>>
>>> -Kyle
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, Aug 24, 2012 at 10:11 AM, Kurt Nolte 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I plan to do the CB550 next, possibly this weekend.

 Kyle, I need a rescan of the 700s in either jpg, tiff or png format.
 PDF didn't work.

 Kurt
 On Aug 24, 2012 1:55 AM, "Gibs"  wrote:

> Sweet thanks! :)
>
> On Wednesday, August 22, 2012 10:35:03 PM UTC-4, Kurt Nolte wrote:
>>
>> CB650sc done. About three hours' work, but I wasn't really dedicated
>> to it.
>>
>> https://docs.google.com/open?**id=**0B5rhwMkJQ5ORakJxZnk2UlZCS0U
>>
>> Feel free to download, print and share. That's a full quality
>> 7000x5340 image @ 600 dpi, so it's a nearly 10mb file.
>>
>> -Kurt
>>
>>
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>>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Wiring diagrams

[Dave duChene]

is there a link to the 750 ?

On 26 August 2012 22:38, Kurt Nolte  wrote:

> Alright, folks. I have good scans of the CB550, CB700s, and 90s+ CB750.
> Which one should I tackle next?
>
> -Kurt
>
> On Fri, Aug 24, 2012 at 1:26 PM, Kyle Munz  wrote:
>
>> I'll scan it in this wknd for ya.
>>
>> -Kyle
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Aug 24, 2012 at 10:11 AM, Kurt Nolte wrote:
>>
>>> I plan to do the CB550 next, possibly this weekend.
>>>
>>> Kyle, I need a rescan of the 700s in either jpg, tiff or png format. PDF
>>> didn't work.
>>>
>>> Kurt
>>> On Aug 24, 2012 1:55 AM, "Gibs"  wrote:
>>>
 Sweet thanks! :)

 On Wednesday, August 22, 2012 10:35:03 PM UTC-4, Kurt Nolte wrote:
>
> CB650sc done. About three hours' work, but I wasn't really dedicated
> to it.
>
> https://docs.google.com/open?**id=**0B5rhwMkJQ5ORakJxZnk2UlZCS0U
>
> Feel free to download, print and share. That's a full quality
> 7000x5340 image @ 600 dpi, so it's a nearly 10mb file.
>
> -Kurt
>
>
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