Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] SOS SOS ... - - - ... NO FUEL from petcock! AND I CAN'T REMOVE MY GAS TANK!!!!....!

[Owen O'Neill]

( The gas tank bolt is out and the gas tank can come off, but that's all I
could do today, all staggering from heat exhaustion. I tried for an hour to
unscrew it "sensibly" but it really needed to be sawed off with an oiled
hacksaw. It was not as easy as it might sound. I''ve been avoiding getting
a Dremel because the new ones seem much flimsier than the one I last had
but I should get one for things like this. I shouldn't have to work.)

On Mon, Sep 7, 2015 at 1:22 AM, Owen O'Neill  wrote:

> Allen Thomas:/> Oh, Gauge, yeah.
>
> EGrider:/> don't own a car but have some serious batteries (Cyclon) being
> all the same I could jump with. This time I was more concerned about the
> health of the one on board since it would be a shame if it were damaged
> being a new and expensive one.
>
> Q: Is battery draining a big deal with the NightHawks because they only
> charge at higher RPMs than other bikes for whatever reason? I was thinking
> about just the idea of having a small, secondary battery with a circuit
> containing at least one DC to DC converter that switches it in to assist
> the main one so that it doesn't drain so much at lower RPMs, and charges
> itself when there's ample power and could, being a deep cycle type even be
> able to fast-charge the bigger one if it got critically low.
>
> On Sun, Sep 6, 2015 at 4:20 PM, Allen Thomas 
> wrote:
>
>> Gauge not Hague. That was a typo.
>>
>> On Sat, Sep 5, 2015 at 6:18 PM, Owen O'Neill  wrote:
>>
>>> Check! "Hague sensor"... I've been adding markers to the pdf someone
>>> nicely made available of the Shop Service Manual to make it searchable by
>>> typing keywords. Not anytime soon, but maybe I will do enough of it to be
>>> generally useful to others.
>>>
>>> On Sat, Sep 5, 2015 at 4:05 PM, Graham Rogers <
>>> grahamjoanrog...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
 Remove the tank by unscrewing and prying up on the stripped bolt.
 Disconnect the fuel Hague sensor wires first. You should see them close to
 the tank, left hand side under the seat.

 Sent from my iPad

 On Sep 5, 2015, at 15:49, Owen O'Neill  wrote:

 (It's funny how when I was checking out the carburetors, I turned the
 throttle and when the slides didn't move I thought I was going insane
 before I decided that there might be more than the one type of carburetor I
 know, such as a vacuum operated one, and indeed there is when I went back
 to my computer. I need a tablet or at least waste an ink cartridge to print
 out the manual if I'm going to do work on this thing XD )

 On Sat, Sep 5, 2015 at 2:42 PM, Kyle Munz  wrote:

> The fuelcock is vacuum actuated. When in the ON or RES position you
> also have to apply vacuum to open the diaphragm before any fuel will flow.
> If that vacuum line is no longer attached you won't get fuel to the carbs.
>
>
> -Kyle
>
> On Sat, Sep 5, 2015 at 1:31 PM, Owen O'Neill 
> wrote:
>
>> '83 650 I bought 2 months ago. I've never worked on a motorcycle or
>> driven one before. Mopeds, yes, mopeds like you would not believe but I
>> find that this completely different, 100 times more complicated and I
>> cannot pick this machine up off the ground and carry it or spark it up by
>> just nudging it forward.
>> ...Right after I bought this sexy looking machine I took it around a
>> bit, stalling all the time shifting out of N :) -- and it had no problem
>> starting up and it ran very powerfully. I even zoomed up to 45mph in 1st
>> gear for a few seconds and it seemed like it could go much faster than 
>> that
>> without redlining.
>>
>> (  I noticed the air filters were caked with pollen and grime, so I
>> took them off and cleaned them. Getting these (K things) back on was
>> arduous because the previous owner, as I discovered, had stripped that 
>> bolt
>> for taking off the gas tank. It just turns and turns.That's a whole big
>> deal in itself because I have no ideas other than maybe trying to get a
>> crowbar under the bolt's head to pry it out-- Or better a hacksaw there I
>> guess now thinking about that again.  )
>>
>> ==> The main problem/question I have though is about
>> how it won't start up at all now after I was forced to let it sit for 2
>> months. Fuel stabilizer in the tank, valve turned off. I put a brand new
>> good battery on it, and It fired up briefly but that was probably from 
>> the
>> residual gas in the carbs and starting fluid I sprayed into the carb
>> intakes when the filters were off. And the tank is 90% full, with a cup 
>> of
>> Seafoam. Whether it's turned to ON or RES, shouldn't fuel normally  just
>> pour out of this valve by gravity? I don't immediately go to blame it on
>> the valve, 

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Feeling like Hodor

[Allen Thomas]

if you can get a pair of nuts on the remaining stud you can probably
unscrew it from the head, Better yet buy a stud extractor an have the right
tool for the job. The trick is finding a replacement stud.

On Sun, Sep 6, 2015 at 3:54 PM, Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> Forget the solder and JB Weld
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Sep 6, 2015, at 15:45, Alexander Press  wrote:
> >
> > Soldering attempt was futile. I went a bought some Jb weld high heat and
> it was setting for maybe 3-4 hours and I tried doing some sanding on the
> weld and the bolt came off pretty easily. The Jb weld was still kinda
> moist. It was a bit crumbly. I'm thinking it hadn't cured totally yet. So I
> redid the Jb weld and secured it with a zip tie. It's tough to get any kind
> of pressure on the screw since it's so small and even a slip in any
> direction jacks everything up. If this doesn't work, there is a custome
> bike shop a half mile from work. I'm sure they could weld the bolt end back
> onto the bit that is still sticking out of the frame. Would that work? Is
> it possible to weld a broken bolt back together? I got really lucky and
> where the bolt snapped, I don't even get the nut down far enough to use
> those threads. It just has to be small enough to fit through the bolt hole
> in the exhaust flange.
> >
> > I'm so mad at myself right now.
> >
> > --
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[Nighthawk Lovers] Forks feel stiff after new seals

[Alexander Press]

Anyone encounter this? I replaced the seals myself for the first one and made 
sure to clean everything really well. Used simple green and a bit of water to 
clean the tubes and stanchions. Everything went back together correctly. I 
wasn't sure what side was up on the fork seals so I just stuck the "flat" end 
up with the little numbers on them. The side with the squared off shoulders and 
little swuare ridges. I also filled the forks up with .5 oz less atf per tube 
than the manual called for as I wanted a bit softer ride. Maybe I should add 
half an ounce to each leg and see if that helps?  Used dex 4 atf as per usual. 
I've only been on 1 ride since the new seals which was around 20 miles. I've 
read it takes a couple jaunts to break them in. Is it possible the seals were 
put on upside down? They're not leaking. Does it just take a bit for the oil to 
work its way back into the damper rods and crannies? I'm positive everything 
went back together the correct way. 

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Feeling like Hodor

[Alexander Press]

You're right Allen. I didn't realize it was a double sided bolt. Cmsnl has one 
left. One. And it's 30 euro to get it here. Screeweww that! Pun intended. 
Maybe I can get one custom made for cheaper. 

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Feeling like Hodor

[Alexander Press]

So I'm sitting here thinking. Couldn't I just get a really long 8mm bolt and be 
done with it? Pull the old stud out and just use a bolt for that one exhaust?

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RE: [Nighthawk Lovers] Feeling like Hodor

[Greg]

No. I'm sorry but on the 91 and up 750s, the exhaust studs are used with nuts 
to tighten the pipes to the heads. The heads are aluminum which strip easily. I 
know I messed up a couple trying to use long bolts. Not sure about the 650s 
though. If you use bolts, get the best kind you can get so it won't  rust.


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: Graham Rogers 
Date: 09/06/2015  4:52 PM  (GMT-06:00)
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Feeling like Hodor

yes

On Sep 6, 2015, at 5:36 PM, Alexander Press wrote:

> So I'm sitting here thinking. Couldn't I just get a really long 8mm bolt and 
> be done with it? Pull the old stud out and just use a bolt for that one 
> exhaust?
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Feeling like Hodor

[Kyle Munz]

The length shouldn't cause too much trouble as long as you can slide the
collar over it. You may have to drill it out a little.


-Kyle

On Sun, Sep 6, 2015 at 5:55 PM, Alexander Press  wrote:

> I wish I could find a 6-8mm stud. Looks like Honda is the only ones to use
> them. I found a 700s 7-8 stud on eBay. Bought it. The length on mine is 52
> the 700s is 60. Will that cause any issues you think?
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 83-85 Nighthawk 650 Corbin seat

[bobcat732]

On Sunday, September 6, 2015, Joel Greaves  wrote:

> Do you still have this? I want it.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 83-85 Nighthawk 650 Corbin seat

[bobcat732]

Sorry sold

On Sunday, September 6, 2015, Joel Greaves  wrote:

> Do you still have this? I want it.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 83-85 Nighthawk 650 Corbin seat

[Joel Greaves]

Do you still have this? I want it. 

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Feeling like Hodor

[Graham Rogers]

yes

On Sep 6, 2015, at 5:36 PM, Alexander Press wrote:

> So I'm sitting here thinking. Couldn't I just get a really long 8mm bolt and 
> be done with it? Pull the old stud out and just use a bolt for that one 
> exhaust?
> 
> -- 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Feeling like Hodor

[Graham Rogers]

Forget the solder and JB Weld

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 6, 2015, at 15:45, Alexander Press  wrote:
> 
> Soldering attempt was futile. I went a bought some Jb weld high heat and it 
> was setting for maybe 3-4 hours and I tried doing some sanding on the weld 
> and the bolt came off pretty easily. The Jb weld was still kinda moist. It 
> was a bit crumbly. I'm thinking it hadn't cured totally yet. So I redid the 
> Jb weld and secured it with a zip tie. It's tough to get any kind of pressure 
> on the screw since it's so small and even a slip in any direction jacks 
> everything up. If this doesn't work, there is a custome bike shop a half mile 
> from work. I'm sure they could weld the bolt end back onto the bit that is 
> still sticking out of the frame. Would that work? Is it possible to weld a 
> broken bolt back together? I got really lucky and where the bolt snapped, I 
> don't even get the nut down far enough to use those threads. It just has to 
> be small enough to fit through the bolt hole in the exhaust flange. 
> 
> I'm so mad at myself right now. 
> 
> -- 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] SOS SOS ... - - - ... NO FUEL from petcock! AND I CAN'T REMOVE MY GAS TANK!!!!....!

[Owen O'Neill]

Allen Thomas:/> Oh, Gauge, yeah.

EGrider:/> don't own a car but have some serious batteries (Cyclon) being
all the same I could jump with. This time I was more concerned about the
health of the one on board since it would be a shame if it were damaged
being a new and expensive one.

Q: Is battery draining a big deal with the NightHawks because they only
charge at higher RPMs than other bikes for whatever reason? I was thinking
about just the idea of having a small, secondary battery with a circuit
containing at least one DC to DC converter that switches it in to assist
the main one so that it doesn't drain so much at lower RPMs, and charges
itself when there's ample power and could, being a deep cycle type even be
able to fast-charge the bigger one if it got critically low.

On Sun, Sep 6, 2015 at 4:20 PM, Allen Thomas  wrote:

> Gauge not Hague. That was a typo.
>
> On Sat, Sep 5, 2015 at 6:18 PM, Owen O'Neill  wrote:
>
>> Check! "Hague sensor"... I've been adding markers to the pdf someone
>> nicely made available of the Shop Service Manual to make it searchable by
>> typing keywords. Not anytime soon, but maybe I will do enough of it to be
>> generally useful to others.
>>
>> On Sat, Sep 5, 2015 at 4:05 PM, Graham Rogers > > wrote:
>>
>>> Remove the tank by unscrewing and prying up on the stripped bolt.
>>> Disconnect the fuel Hague sensor wires first. You should see them close to
>>> the tank, left hand side under the seat.
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>> On Sep 5, 2015, at 15:49, Owen O'Neill  wrote:
>>>
>>> (It's funny how when I was checking out the carburetors, I turned the
>>> throttle and when the slides didn't move I thought I was going insane
>>> before I decided that there might be more than the one type of carburetor I
>>> know, such as a vacuum operated one, and indeed there is when I went back
>>> to my computer. I need a tablet or at least waste an ink cartridge to print
>>> out the manual if I'm going to do work on this thing XD )
>>>
>>> On Sat, Sep 5, 2015 at 2:42 PM, Kyle Munz  wrote:
>>>
 The fuelcock is vacuum actuated. When in the ON or RES position you
 also have to apply vacuum to open the diaphragm before any fuel will flow.
 If that vacuum line is no longer attached you won't get fuel to the carbs.


 -Kyle

 On Sat, Sep 5, 2015 at 1:31 PM, Owen O'Neill  wrote:

> '83 650 I bought 2 months ago. I've never worked on a motorcycle or
> driven one before. Mopeds, yes, mopeds like you would not believe but I
> find that this completely different, 100 times more complicated and I
> cannot pick this machine up off the ground and carry it or spark it up by
> just nudging it forward.
> ...Right after I bought this sexy looking machine I took it around a
> bit, stalling all the time shifting out of N :) -- and it had no problem
> starting up and it ran very powerfully. I even zoomed up to 45mph in 1st
> gear for a few seconds and it seemed like it could go much faster than 
> that
> without redlining.
>
> (  I noticed the air filters were caked with pollen and grime, so I
> took them off and cleaned them. Getting these (K things) back on was
> arduous because the previous owner, as I discovered, had stripped that 
> bolt
> for taking off the gas tank. It just turns and turns.That's a whole big
> deal in itself because I have no ideas other than maybe trying to get a
> crowbar under the bolt's head to pry it out-- Or better a hacksaw there I
> guess now thinking about that again.  )
>
> ==> The main problem/question I have though is about
> how it won't start up at all now after I was forced to let it sit for 2
> months. Fuel stabilizer in the tank, valve turned off. I put a brand new
> good battery on it, and It fired up briefly but that was probably from the
> residual gas in the carbs and starting fluid I sprayed into the carb
> intakes when the filters were off. And the tank is 90% full, with a cup of
> Seafoam. Whether it's turned to ON or RES, shouldn't fuel normally  just
> pour out of this valve by gravity? I don't immediately go to blame it on
> the valve, because the fuel gauge LCD is blinking "RES". would a somehow
> faulty fuel-level indicator or other electronics be closing off the gas
> tank? Because, in getting the air valves back on I might have damaged
> something underneath the tank. My head isn't together enough to start
> intensely studying the Shop Service Manual that I downloaded, so I thought
> a Nighthawk hero on here might read this and have a solution or
> suggestions. Ey? Very very appreciated.
>
> Also I'm not ashamed to admit it because there was nothing I could do
> about it being outside and rained on heavily. That's why I 

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] SOS SOS ... - - - ... NO FUEL from petcock! AND I CAN'T REMOVE MY GAS TANK!!!!....!

[Allen Thomas]

Gauge not Hague. That was a typo.

On Sat, Sep 5, 2015 at 6:18 PM, Owen O'Neill  wrote:

> Check! "Hague sensor"... I've been adding markers to the pdf someone
> nicely made available of the Shop Service Manual to make it searchable by
> typing keywords. Not anytime soon, but maybe I will do enough of it to be
> generally useful to others.
>
> On Sat, Sep 5, 2015 at 4:05 PM, Graham Rogers 
> wrote:
>
>> Remove the tank by unscrewing and prying up on the stripped bolt.
>> Disconnect the fuel Hague sensor wires first. You should see them close to
>> the tank, left hand side under the seat.
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Sep 5, 2015, at 15:49, Owen O'Neill  wrote:
>>
>> (It's funny how when I was checking out the carburetors, I turned the
>> throttle and when the slides didn't move I thought I was going insane
>> before I decided that there might be more than the one type of carburetor I
>> know, such as a vacuum operated one, and indeed there is when I went back
>> to my computer. I need a tablet or at least waste an ink cartridge to print
>> out the manual if I'm going to do work on this thing XD )
>>
>> On Sat, Sep 5, 2015 at 2:42 PM, Kyle Munz  wrote:
>>
>>> The fuelcock is vacuum actuated. When in the ON or RES position you also
>>> have to apply vacuum to open the diaphragm before any fuel will flow. If
>>> that vacuum line is no longer attached you won't get fuel to the carbs.
>>>
>>>
>>> -Kyle
>>>
>>> On Sat, Sep 5, 2015 at 1:31 PM, Owen O'Neill  wrote:
>>>
 '83 650 I bought 2 months ago. I've never worked on a motorcycle or
 driven one before. Mopeds, yes, mopeds like you would not believe but I
 find that this completely different, 100 times more complicated and I
 cannot pick this machine up off the ground and carry it or spark it up by
 just nudging it forward.
 ...Right after I bought this sexy looking machine I took it around a
 bit, stalling all the time shifting out of N :) -- and it had no problem
 starting up and it ran very powerfully. I even zoomed up to 45mph in 1st
 gear for a few seconds and it seemed like it could go much faster than that
 without redlining.

 (  I noticed the air filters were caked with pollen and grime, so I
 took them off and cleaned them. Getting these (K things) back on was
 arduous because the previous owner, as I discovered, had stripped that bolt
 for taking off the gas tank. It just turns and turns.That's a whole big
 deal in itself because I have no ideas other than maybe trying to get a
 crowbar under the bolt's head to pry it out-- Or better a hacksaw there I
 guess now thinking about that again.  )

 ==> The main problem/question I have though is about
 how it won't start up at all now after I was forced to let it sit for 2
 months. Fuel stabilizer in the tank, valve turned off. I put a brand new
 good battery on it, and It fired up briefly but that was probably from the
 residual gas in the carbs and starting fluid I sprayed into the carb
 intakes when the filters were off. And the tank is 90% full, with a cup of
 Seafoam. Whether it's turned to ON or RES, shouldn't fuel normally  just
 pour out of this valve by gravity? I don't immediately go to blame it on
 the valve, because the fuel gauge LCD is blinking "RES". would a somehow
 faulty fuel-level indicator or other electronics be closing off the gas
 tank? Because, in getting the air valves back on I might have damaged
 something underneath the tank. My head isn't together enough to start
 intensely studying the Shop Service Manual that I downloaded, so I thought
 a Nighthawk hero on here might read this and have a solution or
 suggestions. Ey? Very very appreciated.

 Also I'm not ashamed to admit it because there was nothing I could do
 about it being outside and rained on heavily. That's why I replaced the $20
 Walmart battery it came with. All the electrical system seems fine (except
 something about the fuel gauge, if that's an electrical or a mechanical
 issue).

 Also because it was dark out on an unlevel surface, after I got back
 from the one test ride I did so far I tipped it over while standing over it
 getting frustrated trying to lock the front fork. I went down with it
 trying to stop it of course and so it didn't exactly slam down on the
 ground hard, just the mirror got bent. I picked it up and made sure it
 started again. But all that might have jostled a float switch that can cut
 off the fuel??

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Feeling like Hodor

[Kyle Munz]

Don't just use any old bolt and cut the head off. The heat will rust it out
quickly. Take the old one into any autoparts store where the counter jockey
has half a brain (probably not Autozone) and get a matching exhaust stud.
There is a difference between that and a standard bolt to handle the heat.


-Kyle

On Sun, Sep 6, 2015 at 5:10 PM, Greg  wrote:

> No. I'm sorry but on the 91 and up 750s, the exhaust studs are used with
> nuts to tighten the pipes to the heads. The heads are aluminum which strip
> easily. I know I messed up a couple trying to use long bolts. Not sure
> about the 650s though. If you use bolts, get the best kind you can get so
> it won't  rust.
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Graham Rogers 
> Date: 09/06/2015 4:52 PM (GMT-06:00)
> To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Feeling like Hodor
>
> yes
>
> On Sep 6, 2015, at 5:36 PM, Alexander Press wrote:
>
> > So I'm sitting here thinking. Couldn't I just get a really long 8mm bolt
> and be done with it? Pull the old stud out and just use a bolt for that one
> exhaust?
> >
> > --
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Feeling like Hodor

[Alexander Press]

Kinda what I was thinking. If it does I'm sure a machine shop could cut it to 
size and round the ends off if absolutely needed. Man what a nightmare this has 
been. Ugh!

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Feeling like Hodor

[Alexander Press]

I wish I could find a 6-8mm stud. Looks like Honda is the only ones to use 
them. I found a 700s 7-8 stud on eBay. Bought it. The length on mine is 52 the 
700s is 60. Will that cause any issues you think?

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: SOS SOS ... - - - ... NO FUEL from petcock! AND I CAN'T REMOVE MY GAS TANK!!!!....!

[EGrider]

If the battery runs down at an inopportune moment, remember that you can 
jump the bike off your car battery. Do not have the car running at the time.

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Metallic snap/slap on cold start

[Alexander Press]

Thanks Allen. I may try to have a spring made or maybe get lucky on eBay. 
There's a whole NOS assembly tensioner on eBay right now for 200 bucks. Wish I 
could afford it. It's the bulky silver aluminum piece that the spring attaches 
to. Dang I wants it. 

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Feeling like Hodor

[Alexander Press]

So I got a torque wrench the other day and wanted to check some of my torque 
jobs I've done recently. (My rear axle but was spot on btw. Cheers). I get to 
my exhaust flange bolts and I couldn't even get near the 17-22 torque spec 
before the flange bolt snapped. So I'm warming up my soldering iron right now. 
Going to try my luck at soldering the tip of the bolt back on there. Is this 
going to hold up to daily driving or do I need to take the old gal to a machine 
shop and have them weld it back on? Is it possible to out new exhaust flange 
bolts all the way around?

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Feeling like Hodor

[Alexander Press]

Soldering attempt was futile. I went a bought some Jb weld high heat and it was 
setting for maybe 3-4 hours and I tried doing some sanding on the weld and the 
bolt came off pretty easily. The Jb weld was still kinda moist. It was a bit 
crumbly. I'm thinking it hadn't cured totally yet. So I redid the Jb weld and 
secured it with a zip tie. It's tough to get any kind of pressure on the screw 
since it's so small and even a slip in any direction jacks everything up. If 
this doesn't work, there is a custome bike shop a half mile from work. I'm sure 
they could weld the bolt end back onto the bit that is still sticking out of 
the frame. Would that work? Is it possible to weld a broken bolt back together? 
I got really lucky and where the bolt snapped, I don't even get the nut down 
far enough to use those threads. It just has to be small enough to fit through 
the bolt hole in the exhaust flange. 

I'm so mad at myself right now. 

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