[old-chevy-truck] Harmonic balancer
Is there a trick to pulling this thing off? I know they are pressed on faily tight but is there a key or somthing? The shop manual simply says attach J tool and remove. I have a 6 gear puller that I cranked down until the veins in my neck were visible and nothing happened. Roy [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] Harmonic balancer
I pulled mine last weekend with a gear puller. It came off as one piece. Pentrating oil sprayed a couple of times, light taps with hammer after pressure applied. It was slow to move. Try heating the balancer to loosen rust. Now removing the crank gear and cam gear is another story. JZ rmarks10 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Is there a trick to pulling this thing off? I know they are pressed on faily tight but is there a key or somthing? The shop manual simply says attach J tool and remove. I have a 6 gear puller that I cranked down until the veins in my neck were visible and nothing happened. Roy [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: Can't find some messages
They all seem to be there; I found back to #185 thru your #35,969. Possibly you misspelled something or entered too long a phrase? ...bill --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, stiggy44 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I was searching for some of my old messages and I could only find 3 or 4. Is yahoo's search not working well or where some messges deleted? Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Harmonic balancer
Roy, they are typically a moderate press fit but corrosion etc has probably got it stuck. The proper puller will grab the balancer with the threaded bolt holes in the hub for that purpose. Pulling by the outer ring will likely damage the balancer. Check to make sure someone hasn't drilled and tapped the crankshaft snout for a center bolt. Thats a common fix for a loose fitting balancer. Always adjust the puller so that it is perfectly aligned with the crankshaft centerline so that it doesn't cock the balancer as it pulls. Penetrating oils like PB blaster etc certainly can't hurt. Smacking the pullers center bolt with a large hammer while it is under tension always helps jar the stuck ones, but only if you are pulling the balancer hub. Don't pull from the outer ring. You'll be buying a new one. Jeff [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [old-chevy-truck] Harmonic balancer
Remember, the balancer has a rubber insert and heat will likely destroy it if you plan on reusing it. You may also damage the front oil seal. If you are replacing, no problem. Allen '50 3100 -Original Message- From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of James Zorn Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 7:00 AM To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Harmonic balancer I pulled mine last weekend with a gear puller. It came off as one piece. Pentrating oil sprayed a couple of times, light taps with hammer after pressure applied. It was slow to move. Try heating the balancer to loosen rust. Now removing the crank gear and cam gear is another story. JZ rmarks10 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Is there a trick to pulling this thing off? I know they are pressed on faily tight but is there a key or somthing? The shop manual simply says attach J tool and remove. I have a 6 gear puller that I cranked down until the veins in my neck were visible and nothing happened. Roy [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] It's Alive!
All he gets is 7 years? I say ask for 70 years of pure enjoyment. Might as well go for it. jt On Oct 4, 2007, at 8:20 AM, Tom C wrote: Great work, Antonio! Now to get on with 7 more years of pure enjoyment. Congratulations on a job well done! Tom Caperton '47-2nd Series ... in Whiteville, NC [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Antonio Tijerino To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 10:01 PM Subject: [old-chevy-truck] It's Alive! Guys, You have no idea how excited I am tonight, after almost 7 years working on my truck I was finally able to start the engine on my truck today. I had some minor set backs, for example the fuel pump was dry and I could not get any gas to the carburetor, finally ended up putting a good half of cup of gas into the carb and that engine started and because I install dual split headers it was puring like a kitten. The truck is '53 3100, the engine is a rebuilt 57 car engine with the ignition key starter, single carb, dual split headers, Langdon's HEI ignition, 4 speed Saginaw with a Patrick's shifter. I have an open driveline with a later year rear with a bit better ratio. Next improvements planned are power brakes with disks on the front. The body still needs work, but I drive it like that until I get to finish the body. Regards, Antonio '53 3100 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] It's Alive!
Great work, Antonio! Now to get on with 7 more years of pure enjoyment. Congratulations on a job well done! Tom Caperton '47-2nd Series ... in Whiteville, NC [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Antonio Tijerino To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 10:01 PM Subject: [old-chevy-truck] It's Alive! Guys, You have no idea how excited I am tonight, after almost 7 years working on my truck I was finally able to start the engine on my truck today. I had some minor set backs, for example the fuel pump was dry and I could not get any gas to the carburetor, finally ended up putting a good half of cup of gas into the carb and that engine started and because I install dual split headers it was puring like a kitten. The truck is '53 3100, the engine is a rebuilt 57 car engine with the ignition key starter, single carb, dual split headers, Langdon's HEI ignition, 4 speed Saginaw with a Patrick's shifter. I have an open driveline with a later year rear with a bit better ratio. Next improvements planned are power brakes with disks on the front. The body still needs work, but I drive it like that until I get to finish the body. Regards, Antonio '53 3100 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Valve Adjustments..... Again
Having run in my replaced 235 cam, I want to re-adjust my valves. It is a 57 235, with a cam from a 261. What should the intake and exhaust be. Can't find it anywhere... Thanks Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] Harmonic balancer
Hello Roy and OleTruckers, I can't tell you what it'll take to pull your harmonic balancer, but here's what it took for mine. Day 1: Flooded with penetrating oil wrenched hard on gear puller. Gave gear puller center bolt solid hit with 2 pound hammer. Day 2: Same as Day 1. Day 3: Same as Day 2. Day 4: Same as Day 3. Figured hand wrenching wasn't getting the job done, so put 12 long box wrench on gear puller center bolt gave end of wrench a solid hit with same hammer. Told harmonic balancer, Think about that over night. Day 5:? Bright early, had especially strong cup of coffee. Hand torqued box wrench still in place from Day 4. Off slid the harmonic balancer. No rust on shaft or balancer mating surface. Oiled the heck out of both to keep them that way. I figure it must have been the coffee that got the job done. Regards good wrenching. Culver Adams 1951 Chevy 3100 -Original Message- From: rmarks10 [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Old Chevy/GMC Truck [EMAIL PROTECTED]; old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 6:35 am Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Harmonic balancer Is there a trick to pulling this thing off? I know they are pressed on faily tight but is there a key or somthing? The shop manual simply says attach J tool and remove. I have a 6 gear puller that I cranked down until the veins in my neck were visible and nothing happened. Roy [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] misc parts available 47-55e trucks
got a WHOLE pile of parts im gonna be collecting from a guy. brake drums-front/rear doors grills trim parts(no panel/sub trim!) motors including a 302, several 216 and couple 235 interior parts gagues speedos. make offer. all parts will be located in corning,ca 96021 for storage and shipping info. mark email for pics(general pics, nothing specific) and phone. Need a vacation? Get great deals to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel. http://travel.yahoo.com/ Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: Valve Adjustments..... Again
Do you have the hydraulic lifters? 1956 and on show the 235 with hydraulics. zero cleanance hot; tighten down the valve lash to zero, then turn down one more turn. Lets see what others here say. ...bill = --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, fffinc_casey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Having run in my replaced 235 cam, I want to re-adjust my valves. It is a 57 235, with a cam from a 261. What should the intake and exhaust be. Can't find it anywhere... Thanks Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] Harmonic balancer
For got to mention, an impact wrench will some times do a good job for you. Mike 3100 Is there a trick to pulling this thing off? I know they are pressed on faily tight but is there a key or somthing? The shop manual simply says attach J tool and remove. I have a 6 gear puller that I cranked down until the veins in my neck were visible and nothing happened. Roy . [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] Harmonic balancer
Penetrating oil applied a couple of times, before trying. Next a small amount of heat applied with a Propane torch or Oxy/Acetylene. This does not work try smacking the bolt with a hammer, straight on towards the crank shaft, this doesn't work? bigger hammer might, still on? then all three may be needed, Try combinations of heat, penetrating oil, hammer, and keep pressure on harmonic balancer with puller. Keep the faith it will come off eventually. Mike 50 3100, Is there a trick to pulling this thing off? I know they are pressed on faily tight but is there a key or somthing? The shop manual simply says attach J tool and remove. I have a 6 gear puller that I cranked down until the veins in my neck were visible and nothing happened. Roy . [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Valve Adjustments..... Again
have a 235 truck engine of 1959 manufacture with solid lifters. Taking the advise of others on this site, I was told .006-.008 and .013 - 015 . Hot OR cold. Didnt matter I was told. Well, I tried adjusting them COLD to these specs. I tell you, it made the engine a much queoiter engine. I can still here the valves/lifter but now ever so slightly, so I know I still got pleanty of clearance when its hot. Try it.. It beats burnt fingers trying it hot.!! Bill [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Do you have the hydraulic lifters? 1956 and on show the 235 with hydraulics. zero cleanance hot; tighten down the valve lash to zero, then turn down one more turn. Lets see what others here say. ...bill = --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, fffinc_casey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Having run in my replaced 235 cam, I want to re-adjust my valves. It is a 57 235, with a cam from a 261. What should the intake and exhaust be. Can't find it anywhere... Thanks - Catch up on fall's hot new shows on Yahoo! TV. Watch previews, get listings, and more! [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] Harmonic balancer - got it off!!
I used the tool that seems to work best for me on stuff like this. It's a piece of plastic about 2 X 3.75. Slid that sucker right off. Seriously, I was trying to get it off to take it to my machinist buddy. I just took the block with the shaft still in it to him after I beat, hammerred, soaked, heated, and broke a gear puller on the thing. Roy - Original Message - From: Mike Inez Plucker To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com ; Old Chevy/GMC Truck Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 12:51 PM Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Harmonic balancer Penetrating oil applied a couple of times, before trying. Next a small amount of heat applied with a Propane torch or Oxy/Acetylene. This does not work try smacking the bolt with a hammer, straight on towards the crank shaft, this doesn't work? bigger hammer might, still on? then all three may be needed, Try combinations of heat, penetrating oil, hammer, and keep pressure on harmonic balancer with puller. Keep the faith it will come off eventually. Mike 50 3100, Is there a trick to pulling this thing off? I know they are pressed on faily tight but is there a key or somthing? The shop manual simply says attach J tool and remove. I have a 6 gear puller that I cranked down until the veins in my neck were visible and nothing happened. Roy . [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] rebuilt 235
http://remanufactured-engines.com/24%20Chevrolet%206%20Cylinder.htm already rebuilt 235 motors. mark Need a vacation? Get great deals to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel. http://travel.yahoo.com/ Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: Valve Adjustments..... Again
--- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, fffinc_casey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Having run in my replaced 235 cam, I want to re-adjust my valves. It is a 57 235, with a cam from a 261. What should the intake and exhaust be. Can't find it anywhere... Thanks Forgot to mention, solid lifters. Sorry 'bout that. Casey Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: Harmonic balancer
I gotta ask; what does FLAPS stand for. ...bill --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, James Tye [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Go to your FLAPS and ask for a harmonic balancer puller. I usually use an impact wrench but I have also done the patient trurning of the wrench and tap with the whammer routine. Same tool for crank gear. Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Harmonic balancer
Go to your FLAPS and ask for a harmonic balancer puller. I usually use an impact wrench but I have also done the patient trurning of the wrench and tap with the whammer routine. Same tool for crank gear. Bill [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I seem to remember that it is on a keyed shaft. Apply the pulley pressure, then tap the end of the shaft inwardly (is that a word?) Don't mushroom the end of the shaft. Take your time. You may have to leave it several days and keep tapping. You could also wrap the sides of the dampker. Some put a spare bolt and large washer on there to keep the thing from flying off when is finally releases. ...bill === --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, rmarks10 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Is there a trick to pulling this thing off? I know they are pressed on faily tight but is there a key or somthing? The shop manual simply says attach J tool and remove. I have a 6 gear puller that I cranked down until the veins in my neck were visible and nothing happened. Roy When the police don't obey the law, then there is no law; only a struggle for survival. Billy Jack [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Harmonic balancer
Friendly local auto parts store Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -Original Message- From: Bill [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2007 20:39:51 To:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Harmonic balancer I gotta ask; what does FLAPS stand for. ...bill --- In old-chevy-truck@ mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com, James Tye [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Go to your FLAPS and ask for a harmonic balancer puller. I usually use an impact wrench but I have also done the patient trurning of the wrench and tap with the whammer routine. Same tool for crank gear. Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Harmonic balancer
Friendly Local Auto Parts Store = FLAPS Roy - Original Message - From: Bill To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 4:39 PM Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Harmonic balancer I gotta ask; what does FLAPS stand for. ...bill --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, James Tye [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Go to your FLAPS and ask for a harmonic balancer puller. I usually use an impact wrench but I have also done the patient trurning of the wrench and tap with the whammer routine. Same tool for crank gear. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 1956 V8 3200 vacuum wiper motor...kaput.
Yes, most of them. They also made the little vacuum defroster fans that mounted on the steering column or dash. I have one that I have mounted with the machine screw that mounts the visor on the drivers side. It's very cool! (looking that is) Bliss [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks Ken. Maybe that's the answer. Ficken has been getting some great reviews anywhere I search... One question; was Trico the original supplier for these vacuum motors? Galen --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Kenneth Cluley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Galen If you decide to have the vacuum motor rebuilt, I highly recommend Ficken Wiper service www.wiperman.com They have all the old trico parts. I had mine rebuilt a couple of years ago and never realized how well vacuum wipers could work. Ken Bliss [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello, - After many years of declining service, my vacuum wiper motor finally gave up the ghost. That was actually 1992. Since then, I have trusted in the all-mighty Rain-X buff-n-dash. It's actually worked amayzingly well for me however, it is now time to fix it properly and hopefully, functionaly stock. The first problem is I no longer have the dual action fuel pump (the 'single' vacuum tube never actual ran to it but rather to the intake manifold). The other problem is, I find sources for converting to electric from vacuum for 55 2nd series and 57, however there doesn't appear to be an electric conversion kit for 56 with vacuum. Has anyone else ran into this? I'm also considering just having the original vacuum pump rebuilt. Any suggestions, condemnations and/or ideas of astounding geneous welcome. Thanks in advance, Galen [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Harmonic balancer
On 4 Oct 2007 at 20:39, Bill wrote: I gotta ask; what does FLAPS stand for. ...bill Friendly Local Auto Parts Store! Robert A. Wyant Huntington, WV 1951 Chevrolet 1/2 ton 1973 Triumph Spitfire Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: 1956 V8 3200 vacuum wiper motor...kaput.
I remember these from when I was a kid, just after dirt was invented. ...bill http://cgi.ebay.com/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemih=006=item=280158583088 == --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Kenneth Cluley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Yes, most of them. They also made the little vacuum defroster fans that mounted on the steering column or dash. I have one that I have mounted with the machine screw that mounts the visor on the drivers side. It's very cool! (looking that is) Bliss [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks Ken. Maybe that's the answer. Ficken has been getting some great reviews anywhere I search... One question; was Trico the original supplier for these vacuum motors? Galen Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] 1946 freeway driver advice
I'm looking for suggestions to make my '46 half-ton into a true freeway driver. The engine, which I plan to build up, is a 235. Other than that, I haven't yet identified the tranny and rear-end. I just dragged this one out of the mud and home to my garage. I need preliminary info to decide what tranny and rear-end I can use to use this truck as a daily driver on the California freeways. If still original, I'm guessing it's a three-speed with a 4.11. Any of you fellas who've had experience at modernizing the drivetrain are welcome to email what you know. I'd greatly appreciate your help. Chris, in San Diego. Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: Repop U-joint Notes
Albion ; This is typical of Argentine parts ~ few will bolt right on without _some_ machine work . Always it has been thus . Model 'T' and 'A' parts have been available from Argentina for 50 years but the fittment has always been terrible . As far as U-joint stresses , the idea is : once it's all bolted up tight snug , there's almost -no- stress on the caps , that's why they can use such tiny bolts to clamp it all to-gether . -Nate Albion wrote: This is a follow-up to a failed U-joint I had last year ... I forgot to send this e-mail out as a conclusion to my experience changing the U-joint yokes on a 4-speed transmission in my '52 3100. The repop U-joint from Jim Carter has some serious flaws (made in Argentina). The most important different between those and the originals is the fact that there is NO SPEEDO GEAR cut into transmission side yoke for the 4-speed unit! I guess if you run this U-joint you can't have speedometer. That's unacceptable. This is annoying because there is no footnote about this in the catalogue. I installed mine because I didn't have a choice, but the next chance I have to install a stock original setup, I will. Too bad, because I thought I wouldn't be looking at this for a long time. Also the bushings that bolt into the yoke are not a single machined piece, but instead are caps that are soldered onto the bushings. This could be a point of failure considering the amount of force the U-joint sees. But maybe I don't understand the physics of transmission of power through that configuration. Finally, these repops are almost completely incompatiable with stock U-joints. You can't interchange the bushings without modification; the yokes are simply cut differently. I figured this out by trying to use the 4-speed transmission side yoke with an original trunnion and yoke on the propellar shaft side. No go. They don't fit together well enough to even consider mixing them. Bummer. Albion Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: Valve Adjustments Solid And Hyd. Lifters
Oh _LORD_NO_ ! don't _EVER_ do it that way , you'll collapse the lifter and ruin the camshaft in jig time . the book is wrong . To properly adjust a GM hydraulic lifter (V-ate 8or8 6-Banger): follow the same procedure as for solid lifters but set them all to _zero_ lash , maybe 1/4 turn nore but that's it ! now start the engine and adjust the idle speed to under 500 RPM's and one at a time , adjust each valve to where it just stops clicking audibly . To adjust solid lifters go to Deves 50 on speedprint site . I know some listere here have the link archived and will post it up for you shortly . Never use less than .010 on ANY InLine valve ! . We no longer have leaded fuel to make this a safe practice . You can adjust the valves cold but you must _ALWAYS_ re-check them with the engine hot , not just warm . -Nate Bill wrote: Do you have the hydraulic lifters? 1956 and on show the 235 with hydraulics. zero cleanance hot; tighten down the valve lash to zero, then turn down one more turn. Lets see what others here say. ...bill = Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: 1946 freeway driver advice
Chris ; You'll be wanting a 261 camshaft in your 235 and maybe dual carbies . Skinny tall tires should get you going to 55 ~ 60 . Beyond that and you'll need to upgrade the Huck brakes to Bendix or you'll _DIE_ , painfully . I miss my old 1946 3100 series shop truck . -Nate Chris wrote: I'm looking for suggestions to make my '46 half-ton into a true freeway driver. The engine, which I plan to build up, is a 235. Other than that, I haven't yet identified the tranny and rear-end. I just dragged this one out of the mud and home to my garage. I need preliminary info to decide what tranny and rear-end I can use to use this truck as a daily driver on the California freeways. If still original, I'm guessing it's a three-speed with a 4.11. Any of you fellas who've had experience at modernizing the drivetrain are welcome to email what you know. I'd greatly appreciate your help. Chris, in San Diego. Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] 1946 freeway driver advice
Chris I'm sure you're going to get lots of input but I'll tell you what I did. I changed the rear end gears to 3:55 and kept the closed drive shaft for originality. I also put steel belted radials on the original rims and it rides like a dream. I can do 65mph at about 2500 rpm. If you're going to get it to highway speeds make sure you have good brakes! Ken Christopher J. Stompoly. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm looking for suggestions to make my '46 half-ton into a true freeway driver. The engine, which I plan to build up, is a 235. Other than that, I haven't yet identified the tranny and rear-end. I just dragged this one out of the mud and home to my garage. I need preliminary info to decide what tranny and rear-end I can use to use this truck as a daily driver on the California freeways. If still original, I'm guessing it's a three-speed with a 4.11. Any of you fellas who've had experience at modernizing the drivetrain are welcome to email what you know. I'd greatly appreciate your help. Chris, in San Diego. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] gmc manifold casting number
2343428 or 2343426 came off GMC 302 manifold. want to know year and application if possible. looked on inliners site but they only have engine numbers mark Check out the hottest 2008 models today at Yahoo! Autos. http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [old-chevy-truck] gmc manifold casting number
Not listed in 55.2-60 Master Parts Book -Original Message- From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of mark Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 7:52 PM To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Subject: [old-chevy-truck] gmc manifold casting number 2343428 or 2343426 came off GMC 302 manifold. want to know year and application if possible. looked on inliners site but they only have engine numbers mark __ Check out the hottest 2008 models today at Yahoo! Autos. http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
