[old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine Restoration.
Thanks so much for the response. It was actually a training truck; never used for fires in my community. They only used it for a few years. Then they put it on ebay. I promised my wife my limit was $1,000. I won it for $2,000. Haven't heard the end of that one yet. Just a quick question: what's wrong with putting a volatile into the carb? Doesn't it already use one--gasoline? Tony Seideman --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Jonas Thaler wrote: > > That fire truck is a beauty! And what a monument to both small town history > in general and fire-fighting heroism in particular. Me want one too! > > The only things I might suggest are to check if the fuel pump is sending fuel > and does the carb then spray little sprays of "atomized" gas into its own > throat? And please be careful when you put anything volatile directly into > the carburetor! > > > > On Aug 19, 2012, at 8:21 AM, "tonydsny" wrote: > > > In 2005, I purchased a 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Truck and promptly > > parked it in my garage, where it has stayed since, virtually untouched. > > > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157630956792770/ > > > > I was going to wait until I could get it fully restored, but I recently > > decided that was disrespectful to the machine. I was concerned the engine > > has locked because it sat for so long, but, on the advice of people in the > > Stovebolt group, yesterday I pulled the plugs and it turned relatively easy > > once the compression was released. > > > > Because the battery was very, exceedingly, totally dead, I ordered an > > Optima 6V, which will be arriving the 22nd. Today I'm wire brushing, > > sanding and gapping the plugs. I am definitely not a car guy; getting the > > plugs out was a significant achievement for me. But I've got the original > > manual and a book on Chevy restoration. > > > > What other simple things can I do as an inexperienced person to increase > > the chance of the truck actually starting when I put the battery in? > > > > Is it a good idea to use startup fluid? > > > > Should I hit the carb with a bunch of Gunk remover? > > > > Also, there isn't a lot of rust on the body, but there are some ugly spots. > > Should I sand them down and put primer as a prep for the actual paint job? > > I don't like the measles look, but better that than more corrosion. > > > > Here are some more shots of the mechanicals: > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157631115324428/ > > > > Can't tell you how good it felt to tug on the flywheel, seem to feel it > > move, push, and have it rotate. Wow. Having a 25-foot, 3,000 pound doorstop > > would have been a bit much. > > > > Tony Seideman > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine Restoration.
I appreciate the feedback. You must realize that all good comments go into the "forgiveness" file, if you know what I mean. In fact, one reason I've started fixing it up is that a car-crazy guy where my wife works told her I was a fool for neglecting it, and that the truck could prove a real treasure. Tony Seideman --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Mike Healy wrote: > > Great looking truck Tony! Certainly a very restoreable piece. Once you > get into things a little more you may want to look into SPAAMFAA group. > They (we) are the antique fire truck group. There is a Yahoo group and > several Facebook groups as well that you will find useful. > > Mike > > > > On 8/19/2012 11:21 AM, tonydsny wrote: > > > > In 2005, I purchased a 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Truck and > > promptly parked it in my garage, where it has stayed since, virtually > > untouched. > > > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157630956792770/ > > > > I was going to wait until I could get it fully restored, but I > > recently decided that was disrespectful to the machine. I was > > concerned the engine has locked because it sat for so long, but, on > > the advice of people in the Stovebolt group, yesterday I pulled the > > plugs and it turned relatively easy once the compression was released. > > > > Because the battery was very, exceedingly, totally dead, I ordered an > > Optima 6V, which will be arriving the 22nd. Today I'm wire brushing, > > sanding and gapping the plugs. I am definitely not a car guy; getting > > the plugs out was a significant achievement for me. But I've got the > > original manual and a book on Chevy restoration. > > > > What other simple things can I do as an inexperienced person to > > increase the chance of the truck actually starting when I put the > > battery in? > > > > Is it a good idea to use startup fluid? > > > > Should I hit the carb with a bunch of Gunk remover? > > > > Also, there isn't a lot of rust on the body, but there are some ugly > > spots. Should I sand them down and put primer as a prep for the actual > > paint job? I don't like the measles look, but better that than more > > corrosion. > > > > Here are some more shots of the mechanicals: > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157631115324428/ > > > > Can't tell you how good it felt to tug on the flywheel, seem to feel > > it move, push, and have it rotate. Wow. Having a 25-foot, 3,000 pound > > doorstop would have been a bit much. > > > > Tony Seideman > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine Restoration.
There is an entire motor in the middle of the truck that is dedicated to pumping. I gather it hasn't worked for many years. I already know the fuel hose to the gas tank is non-stock; the longest one 40s Chevys offers is 6 inches, and mine's nine. Tony Seideman --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Mike Healy wrote: > > Keep in mind that some things particularly in the cooling system and vacume > lines may be non-stock due to it being a firetruck. The cooling needs are > greater and vacume was probably use to prime the fire pump. > > Mike > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID > > James Tye wrote: > > >Lessee.I can see that your lines have been molested. I would put a > >glass bowl fuel filter directly in front of the carb. What is that thing > >on top of the water outlet? I see you have a radiator shroud. A rare > >accessory but it will be the male offspring of a sinful rebellious woman who > >complains alot..or the vernacular there of.to change your > >belt or do anything with the waterpump.. If you have a tubing bender and a > >double flaring tool it is simple to make the fuel and vacuum lines like > >original. That thing that connects to the oil filler on the valve > >covernot sure what that is. > > > >I just put a 52 engine out of an old oil distributor in my 48 2 ton grain > >truck. The decal on the valve cover is in readable shape. It said > >Loadmaster 105. I can take a picture of it with my phone if you want. > >I'd love to find another decal to restore that valve cover.. All that is > >available is the Thriftmaster decal. > > > >--- On Sun, 8/19/12, Jonas Thaler wrote: > > > >From: Jonas Thaler > >Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine > >Restoration. > >To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com > >Date: Sunday, August 19, 2012, 9:41 AM > > > >That fire truck is a beauty!   And what a monument to both small town > >history in general and fire-fighting heroism in particular. Me want one > >too! > > > >The only things I might suggest are to check if the fuel pump is sending > >fuel and does the carb then spray little sprays of "atomized" gas into its > >own throat? And please be careful when you put anything volatile directly > >into the carburetor! > > > > > > > >On Aug 19, 2012, at 8:21 AM, "tonydsny" wrote: > > > >> In 2005, I purchased a 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Truck and promptly > >> parked it in my garage, where it has stayed since, virtually untouched. > >> > >> http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157630956792770/ > >> > >> I was going to wait until I could get it fully restored, but I recently > >> decided that was disrespectful to the machine. I was concerned the engine > >> has locked because it sat for so long, but, on the advice of people in the > >> Stovebolt group, yesterday I pulled the plugs and it turned relatively > >> easy once the compression was released. > >> > >> Because the battery was very, exceedingly, totally dead, I ordered an > >> Optima 6V, which will be arriving the 22nd. Today I'm wire brushing, > >> sanding and gapping the plugs. I am definitely not a car guy; getting the > >> plugs out was a significant achievement for me. But I've got the original > >> manual and a book on Chevy restoration. > >> > >> What other simple things can I do as an inexperienced person to increase > >> the chance of the truck actually starting when I put the battery in? > >> > >> Is it a good idea to use startup fluid? > >> > >> Should I hit the carb with a bunch of Gunk remover? > >> > >> Also, there isn't a lot of rust on the body, but there are some ugly > >> spots. Should I sand them down and put primer as a prep for the actual > >> paint job? I don't like the measles look, but better that than more > >> corrosion. > >> > >> Here are some more shots of the mechanicals: > >> http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157631115324428/ > >> > >> Can't tell you how good it felt to tug on the flywheel, seem to feel it > >> move, push, and have it rotate. Wow. Having a 25-foot, 3,000 pound > >> doorstop would have been a bit much. > >> > >> Tony Seideman > >> > >> > > > > > > > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > >Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! > > > >To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), > >to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@...! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ <*> Your ema
[old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine Restoration.
There is an entire motor in the middle of the truck that is dedicated to pumping. I gather it hasn't worked for many years. I already know the fuel hose to the gas tank is non-stock; the longest one 40s Chevys offers is 6 inches, and mine's nine. Tony Seideman --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Mike Healy wrote: > > Keep in mind that some things particularly in the cooling system and vacume > lines may be non-stock due to it being a firetruck. The cooling needs are > greater and vacume was probably use to prime the fire pump. > > Mike > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID > > James Tye wrote: > > >Lessee.I can see that your lines have been molested. I would put a > >glass bowl fuel filter directly in front of the carb. What is that thing > >on top of the water outlet? I see you have a radiator shroud. A rare > >accessory but it will be the male offspring of a sinful rebellious woman who > >complains alot..or the vernacular there of.to change your > >belt or do anything with the waterpump.. If you have a tubing bender and a > >double flaring tool it is simple to make the fuel and vacuum lines like > >original. That thing that connects to the oil filler on the valve > >covernot sure what that is. > > > >I just put a 52 engine out of an old oil distributor in my 48 2 ton grain > >truck. The decal on the valve cover is in readable shape. It said > >Loadmaster 105. I can take a picture of it with my phone if you want. > >I'd love to find another decal to restore that valve cover.. All that is > >available is the Thriftmaster decal. > > > >--- On Sun, 8/19/12, Jonas Thaler wrote: > > > >From: Jonas Thaler > >Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine > >Restoration. > >To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com > >Date: Sunday, August 19, 2012, 9:41 AM > > > >That fire truck is a beauty!   And what a monument to both small town > >history in general and fire-fighting heroism in particular. Me want one > >too! > > > >The only things I might suggest are to check if the fuel pump is sending > >fuel and does the carb then spray little sprays of "atomized" gas into its > >own throat? And please be careful when you put anything volatile directly > >into the carburetor! > > > > > > > >On Aug 19, 2012, at 8:21 AM, "tonydsny" wrote: > > > >> In 2005, I purchased a 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Truck and promptly > >> parked it in my garage, where it has stayed since, virtually untouched. > >> > >> http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157630956792770/ > >> > >> I was going to wait until I could get it fully restored, but I recently > >> decided that was disrespectful to the machine. I was concerned the engine > >> has locked because it sat for so long, but, on the advice of people in the > >> Stovebolt group, yesterday I pulled the plugs and it turned relatively > >> easy once the compression was released. > >> > >> Because the battery was very, exceedingly, totally dead, I ordered an > >> Optima 6V, which will be arriving the 22nd. Today I'm wire brushing, > >> sanding and gapping the plugs. I am definitely not a car guy; getting the > >> plugs out was a significant achievement for me. But I've got the original > >> manual and a book on Chevy restoration. > >> > >> What other simple things can I do as an inexperienced person to increase > >> the chance of the truck actually starting when I put the battery in? > >> > >> Is it a good idea to use startup fluid? > >> > >> Should I hit the carb with a bunch of Gunk remover? > >> > >> Also, there isn't a lot of rust on the body, but there are some ugly > >> spots. Should I sand them down and put primer as a prep for the actual > >> paint job? I don't like the measles look, but better that than more > >> corrosion. > >> > >> Here are some more shots of the mechanicals: > >> http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157631115324428/ > >> > >> Can't tell you how good it felt to tug on the flywheel, seem to feel it > >> move, push, and have it rotate. Wow. Having a 25-foot, 3,000 pound > >> doorstop would have been a bit much. > >> > >> Tony Seideman > >> > >> > > > > > > > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > >Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! > > > >To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), > >to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@...! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ <*> Your ema
[old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine Restoration.
Thanks for the pointers. I didn't realize it was so easy to do myself damage. Tony Seideman --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Jonas Thaler wrote: > > I just meant that if you are priming the engine by pouring gas directly down > the carb throat or spraying in starter fluid (and we have all done those > things) there is a risk of a spark catching the volatile vapor where it isn't > supposed to and harming the owner rather badly. They say to pour the gas > from a small paper cup rather than pour from a gas can, so you aren't > dangling a bomb in front of your own face. That's all I meant by that. > > jt > > > > > > On Aug 19, 2012, at 12:01 PM, "tonydsny" wrote: > > > Thanks so much for the response. > > > > It was actually a training truck; never used for fires in my community. > > They only used it for a few years. Then they put it on ebay. I promised my > > wife my limit was $1,000. I won it for $2,000. Haven't heard the end of > > that one yet. > > > > Just a quick question: what's wrong with putting a volatile into the carb? > > Doesn't it already use one--gasoline? > > > > Tony Seideman > > > > --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Jonas Thaler wrote: > > > > > > That fire truck is a beauty! And what a monument to both small town > > > history in general and fire-fighting heroism in particular. Me want one > > > too! > > > > > > The only things I might suggest are to check if the fuel pump is sending > > > fuel and does the carb then spray little sprays of "atomized" gas into > > > its own throat? And please be careful when you put anything volatile > > > directly into the carburetor! > > > > > > > > > > > > On Aug 19, 2012, at 8:21 AM, "tonydsny" wrote: > > > > > > > In 2005, I purchased a 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Truck and > > > > promptly parked it in my garage, where it has stayed since, virtually > > > > untouched. > > > > > > > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157630956792770/ > > > > > > > > I was going to wait until I could get it fully restored, but I recently > > > > decided that was disrespectful to the machine. I was concerned the > > > > engine has locked because it sat for so long, but, on the advice of > > > > people in the Stovebolt group, yesterday I pulled the plugs and it > > > > turned relatively easy once the compression was released. > > > > > > > > Because the battery was very, exceedingly, totally dead, I ordered an > > > > Optima 6V, which will be arriving the 22nd. Today I'm wire brushing, > > > > sanding and gapping the plugs. I am definitely not a car guy; getting > > > > the plugs out was a significant achievement for me. But I've got the > > > > original manual and a book on Chevy restoration. > > > > > > > > What other simple things can I do as an inexperienced person to > > > > increase the chance of the truck actually starting when I put the > > > > battery in? > > > > > > > > Is it a good idea to use startup fluid? > > > > > > > > Should I hit the carb with a bunch of Gunk remover? > > > > > > > > Also, there isn't a lot of rust on the body, but there are some ugly > > > > spots. Should I sand them down and put primer as a prep for the actual > > > > paint job? I don't like the measles look, but better that than more > > > > corrosion. > > > > > > > > Here are some more shots of the mechanicals: > > > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157631115324428/ > > > > > > > > Can't tell you how good it felt to tug on the flywheel, seem to feel it > > > > move, push, and have it rotate. Wow. Having a 25-foot, 3,000 pound > > > > doorstop would have been a bit much. > > > > > > > > Tony Seideman > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine Restoration.
Tony ; That's a very nice pumper you have there ! . When I were a lad , we had a 1929 Chevy Pumper much the same , our was an open cab but still and all , looking at your truck brang back a wonderful rush of memories . This is a big job but well worth it , much time and unimaginable laber is waiting for you but when you drive it , it'll all be worthwhile . Don't let anyone talk you out of the various parts (siren is junk etc.) as you're very lucky to get it with all thjse hard t find bits & bobs intact . I know the hoses are all rotted but , the ends are easily fransfreed to new canvas ose , not much $ there either . I'd get some pints of rustoleum paint ASAP and a box full f .99 CENT Store brushes plus wire brushes and begin scraping the loose scale as RUST NEVER SLEEPS so get the heavy ust off then encapsulate the rust with the rustoleum so it'll still be O.K. when you get to that part . These engines , trannies and so one are *very* hard to kill so beware of taking it all part before getting it running for proper evaluation . -Nate Tony wrote : > > In 2005, I purchased a 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Truck and promptly > parked it in my garage, where it has stayed since, virtually untouched. > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157630956792770/ > > I was going to wait until I could get it fully restored, but I recently > decided that was disrespectful to the machine. I was concerned the engine has > locked because it sat for so long, but, on the advice of people in the > Stovebolt group, yesterday I pulled the plugs and it turned relatively easy > once the compression was released. > > Because the battery was very, exceedingly, totally dead, I ordered an Optima > 6V, which will be arriving the 22nd. Today I'm wire brushing, sanding and > gapping the plugs. I am definitely not a car guy; getting the plugs out was a > significant achievement for me. But I've got the original manual and a book > on Chevy restoration. > > What other simple things can I do as an inexperienced person to increase the > chance of the truck actually starting when I put the battery in? > > Is it a good idea to use startup fluid? > > Should I hit the carb with a bunch of Gunk remover? > > Also, there isn't a lot of rust on the body, but there are some ugly spots. > Should I sand them down and put primer as a prep for the actual paint job? I > don't like the measles look, but better that than more corrosion. > > Here are some more shots of the mechanicals: > http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157631115324428/ > > Can't tell you how good it felt to tug on the flywheel, seem to feel it move, > push, and have it rotate. Wow. Having a 25-foot, 3,000 pound doorstop would > have been a bit much. > > Tony Seideman > Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine Restoration.
Urp. Argh. So I shouldn't believe everything I read on the internet? I went over the plugs with a 100 grit diamond sharpening sheet. I know that the gas in my cylinders is supposed to detonate--but I don't think you're talking about it that way. At this point, due to the economy and other issues, my budget is very limited. Is it really likely I'll pop a crankshaft or a head with my freshly mutilated spark plugs? And I thought restoring a 110 year old, 4,000 square foot house was a pain At least it came with a five bay garage--which I've filled--and need to empty for this project. And I felt such triumph when I put the plugs backed in. Now it looks like I've been plugged over. Tony Seideman --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Rick Wagner wrote: > > from the looks of it, you will likely need to overhaul your carb. The kits > are available still for the Rochester carbs. They are fairly easy to > disassemble. Lay all the parts out as you take it aprt so you can recall > how it goes back together. The kits have an expolded view of the carb. The > kit also has some basic ajustment values for you to use when finshed. Clean > it in a can of the carb cleaner you can get at the FLAPS. Cleaner is better > when it comes to carbs. Spotless is the way the insude should be. be > advised on the spark plugsyou should not sand them. this will cause > detonation possibly. use a brass type wire brush and scrape off any really > tough deposits. try not to harm the electrodes and chek the porcelin for > cracks. As always some new plugs are the best bet if available. Use a known > clean source for the fuel to your rebuilt carb. I bet the gas tank on the > beast is in rough shape inside. Get an old lawn mower tank and use it till > you get the engine running well. Some oil in each sprk plug hole and rotate > it all a few times will ensure the cylinders will not be damaged when it > fires the first time. Expect a bunch of smoke ! Its a blast to get one > running again! good luck!! > > On Sun, Aug 19, 2012 at 10:21 AM, tonydsny wrote: > > > ** > > > > > > In 2005, I purchased a 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Truck and promptly > > parked it in my garage, where it has stayed since, virtually untouched. > > > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157630956792770/ > > > > I was going to wait until I could get it fully restored, but I recently > > decided that was disrespectful to the machine. I was concerned the engine > > has locked because it sat for so long, but, on the advice of people in the > > Stovebolt group, yesterday I pulled the plugs and it turned relatively easy > > once the compression was released. > > > > Because the battery was very, exceedingly, totally dead, I ordered an > > Optima 6V, which will be arriving the 22nd. Today I'm wire brushing, > > sanding and gapping the plugs. I am definitely not a car guy; getting the > > plugs out was a significant achievement for me. But I've got the original > > manual and a book on Chevy restoration. > > > > What other simple things can I do as an inexperienced person to increase > > the chance of the truck actually starting when I put the battery in? > > > > Is it a good idea to use startup fluid? > > > > Should I hit the carb with a bunch of Gunk remover? > > > > Also, there isn't a lot of rust on the body, but there are some ugly > > spots. Should I sand them down and put primer as a prep for the actual > > paint job? I don't like the measles look, but better that than more > > corrosion. > > > > Here are some more shots of the mechanicals: > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157631115324428/ > > > > Can't tell you how good it felt to tug on the flywheel, seem to feel it > > move, push, and have it rotate. Wow. Having a 25-foot, 3,000 pound doorstop > > would have been a bit much. > > > > Tony Seideman > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine Restoration.
Thanks again. I've got an old, dead rototiller I can take the tank off of and clean up. How big a tank do I need to use? And how do I hook it up to the truck's fuel system? Another thing: my truck is leaning about three inches to left. I couldn't get to the valves to check the pressure, but I measured the height of the tires, and the rim for the left tire is 6.5 inches high, while the right rim is 7 inches. Could this result in a 3 inch lean, or is something going on with the suspension or leafs? Here are some photos of the carb and the suspension, if that helps. http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157631164691228/ Thanks again for the advice. Tony Seideman --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Rick Wagner wrote: > > from the looks of it, you will likely need to overhaul your carb. The kits > are available still for the Rochester carbs. They are fairly easy to > disassemble. Lay all the parts out as you take it aprt so you can recall > how it goes back together. The kits have an expolded view of the carb. The > kit also has some basic ajustment values for you to use when finshed. Clean > it in a can of the carb cleaner you can get at the FLAPS. Cleaner is better > when it comes to carbs. Spotless is the way the insude should be. be > advised on the spark plugsyou should not sand them. this will cause > detonation possibly. use a brass type wire brush and scrape off any really > tough deposits. try not to harm the electrodes and chek the porcelin for > cracks. As always some new plugs are the best bet if available. Use a known > clean source for the fuel to your rebuilt carb. I bet the gas tank on the > beast is in rough shape inside. Get an old lawn mower tank and use it till > you get the engine running well. Some oil in each sprk plug hole and rotate > it all a few times will ensure the cylinders will not be damaged when it > fires the first time. Expect a bunch of smoke ! Its a blast to get one > running again! good luck!! > > On Sun, Aug 19, 2012 at 10:21 AM, tonydsny wrote: > > > ** > > > > > > In 2005, I purchased a 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Truck and promptly > > parked it in my garage, where it has stayed since, virtually untouched. > > > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157630956792770/ > > > > I was going to wait until I could get it fully restored, but I recently > > decided that was disrespectful to the machine. I was concerned the engine > > has locked because it sat for so long, but, on the advice of people in the > > Stovebolt group, yesterday I pulled the plugs and it turned relatively easy > > once the compression was released. > > > > Because the battery was very, exceedingly, totally dead, I ordered an > > Optima 6V, which will be arriving the 22nd. Today I'm wire brushing, > > sanding and gapping the plugs. I am definitely not a car guy; getting the > > plugs out was a significant achievement for me. But I've got the original > > manual and a book on Chevy restoration. > > > > What other simple things can I do as an inexperienced person to increase > > the chance of the truck actually starting when I put the battery in? > > > > Is it a good idea to use startup fluid? > > > > Should I hit the carb with a bunch of Gunk remover? > > > > Also, there isn't a lot of rust on the body, but there are some ugly > > spots. Should I sand them down and put primer as a prep for the actual > > paint job? I don't like the measles look, but better that than more > > corrosion. > > > > Here are some more shots of the mechanicals: > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157631115324428/ > > > > Can't tell you how good it felt to tug on the flywheel, seem to feel it > > move, push, and have it rotate. Wow. Having a 25-foot, 3,000 pound doorstop > > would have been a bit much. > > > > Tony Seideman > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine Restoration.
Great idea. Never really thought about the fuel pump being able to pull fuel out of the gas can. --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Jim Klancer wrote: > > Hi guys, > For a gas source, get a piece of rubber gas line, 4' is usually enough > to get anywhere. Then cut the fuel line from the original gas tank 6" > from the fuel filter, and slip the rubber hose over the end that leads > to the fuel filter. Take the other end of the rubber hose and stick an > old piece of metal tubing into it and drop it right into your portable > gas can. (2 gal, 5 gal, whatever you want) the metal tube will hold the > rubber hose in the gas can and the fuel pump will suck the gas through > the filter. > > If you don't want to cut the line from the gas tank, go to your Flaps > and get a short piece of steel fuel line and cut it in two pieces. The > longer one will go into the gas can to hold it down and the short one > will screw into the fuel pump. > > You won't have to worry about kicking anything over, hanging it up or > slopping it over the project. > > When your done, pull the tube out of the gas can, put the cover on the > candone. > > Wana get fancy, pick up one of those portable fuel tanks, red plastic, > holds 5 to 10 gals, and has a fuel gage in the cap. They probably cost > $45 by now. > Have fun, > jimk > > > > Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine Restoration.
No joy in the starting. I got the battery, and, just for kicks, put a couple of gallons in the tank. It turned over, but never really caught. There is a fuel filter before the carb, and it was completely dry, so I think that there is a blockage in the line. Busy today. Will try another approach tomorrow. Tony Seideman --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Jim Klancer wrote: > > Hi guys, > For a gas source, get a piece of rubber gas line, 4' is usually enough > to get anywhere. Then cut the fuel line from the original gas tank 6" > from the fuel filter, and slip the rubber hose over the end that leads > to the fuel filter. Take the other end of the rubber hose and stick an > old piece of metal tubing into it and drop it right into your portable > gas can. (2 gal, 5 gal, whatever you want) the metal tube will hold the > rubber hose in the gas can and the fuel pump will suck the gas through > the filter. > > If you don't want to cut the line from the gas tank, go to your Flaps > and get a short piece of steel fuel line and cut it in two pieces. The > longer one will go into the gas can to hold it down and the short one > will screw into the fuel pump. > > You won't have to worry about kicking anything over, hanging it up or > slopping it over the project. > > When your done, pull the tube out of the gas can, put the cover on the > candone. > > Wana get fancy, pick up one of those portable fuel tanks, red plastic, > holds 5 to 10 gals, and has a fuel gage in the cap. They probably cost > $45 by now. > Have fun, > jimk > > > > -Original Message- > From: tonydsny > Reply-to: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com > To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine > Restoration. > Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 20:13:30 - > > > Thanks again. > > I've got an old, dead rototiller I can take the tank off of and clean > up. How big a tank do I need to use? And how do I hook it up to the > truck's fuel system? > > Another thing: my truck is leaning about three inches to left. I > couldn't get to the valves to check the pressure, but I measured the > height of the tires, and the rim for the left tire is 6.5 inches high, > while the right rim is 7 inches. > > Could this result in a 3 inch lean, or is something going on with the > suspension or leafs? > > Here are some photos of the carb and the suspension, if that helps. > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157631164691228/ > > Thanks again for the advice. > > Tony Seideman > > --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Rick Wagner > wrote: > > > > from the looks of it, you will likely need to overhaul your carb. The > kits > > are available still for the Rochester carbs. They are fairly easy to > > disassemble. Lay all the parts out as you take it aprt so you can > recall > > how it goes back together. The kits have an expolded view of the carb. > The > > kit also has some basic ajustment values for you to use when finshed. > Clean > > it in a can of the carb cleaner you can get at the FLAPS. Cleaner is > better > > when it comes to carbs. Spotless is the way the insude should be. be > > advised on the spark plugsyou should not sand them. this will > cause > > detonation possibly. use a brass type wire brush and scrape off any > really > > tough deposits. try not to harm the electrodes and chek the porcelin > for > > cracks. As always some new plugs are the best bet if available. Use a > known > > clean source for the fuel to your rebuilt carb. I bet the gas tank on > the > > beast is in rough shape inside. Get an old lawn mower tank and use it > till > > you get the engine running well. Some oil in each sprk plug hole and > rotate > > it all a few times will ensure the cylinders will not be damaged when > it > > fires the first time. Expect a bunch of smoke ! Its a blast to get one > > running again! good luck!! > > > > On Sun, Aug 19, 2012 at 10:21 AM, tonydsny wrote: > > > > > ** > > > > > > > > > In 2005, I purchased a 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Truck and > promptly > > > parked it in my garage, where it has stayed since, virtually > untouched. > > > > > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157630956792770/ > > > > > > I was going to wait until I could get it fully restored, but I > recently > > > decided that was disrespectful to the machine. I was concerned the > engine > > > has locked because it sat for so long, but, on the advice
[old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine Restoration.
There may be a fuel valve below the tank. It may be shut off. You could also disconnect fuel line under tank and see if gas flows. I had rust or gunk plugging fuel line at bottom of tank. I blew some compressed air to open it. Be a bit careful because there may be a wire-screen filter where the fuel line connects to the tank. Lowell - Grandpa's 1941 Chevy 3/4 ton Durham, NC --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, wrote: > > I would prime the pump by pouring some gas into the line that is near the > carb, back thru the filter and thru the mechanical fuel pump. Bill in > Oregon > > > > _ > > From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tonydsny > Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2012 6:27 AM > To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine > Restoration. > > > > > > No joy in the starting. I got the battery, and, just for kicks, put a couple > of gallons in the tank. > > It turned over, but never really caught. There is a fuel filter before the > carb, and it was completely dry, so I think that there is a blockage in the > line. > > Busy today. Will try another approach tomorrow. > > Tony Seideman > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine Restoration.
TEST MESSAGE . -Nate --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, "tonydsny" wrote: > > No joy in the starting. I got the battery, and, just for kicks, put a couple > of gallons in the tank. > > It turned over, but never really caught. There is a fuel filter before the > carb, and it was completely dry, so I think that there is a blockage in the > line. > > Busy today. Will try another approach tomorrow. > > Tony Seideman > > --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Jim Klancer wrote: > > > > Hi guys, > > For a gas source, get a piece of rubber gas line, 4' is usually enough > > to get anywhere. Then cut the fuel line from the original gas tank 6" > > from the fuel filter, and slip the rubber hose over the end that leads > > to the fuel filter. Take the other end of the rubber hose and stick an > > old piece of metal tubing into it and drop it right into your portable > > gas can. (2 gal, 5 gal, whatever you want) the metal tube will hold the > > rubber hose in the gas can and the fuel pump will suck the gas through > > the filter. > > > > If you don't want to cut the line from the gas tank, go to your Flaps > > and get a short piece of steel fuel line and cut it in two pieces. The > > longer one will go into the gas can to hold it down and the short one > > will screw into the fuel pump. > > > > You won't have to worry about kicking anything over, hanging it up or > > slopping it over the project. > > > > When your done, pull the tube out of the gas can, put the cover on the > > candone. > > > > Wana get fancy, pick up one of those portable fuel tanks, red plastic, > > holds 5 to 10 gals, and has a fuel gage in the cap. They probably cost > > $45 by now. > > Have fun, > > jimk > > > > > > > > -Original Message- > > From: tonydsny > > Reply-to: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com > > To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com > > Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine > > Restoration. > > Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 20:13:30 - > > > > > > Thanks again. > > > > I've got an old, dead rototiller I can take the tank off of and clean > > up. How big a tank do I need to use? And how do I hook it up to the > > truck's fuel system? > > > > Another thing: my truck is leaning about three inches to left. I > > couldn't get to the valves to check the pressure, but I measured the > > height of the tires, and the rim for the left tire is 6.5 inches high, > > while the right rim is 7 inches. > > > > Could this result in a 3 inch lean, or is something going on with the > > suspension or leafs? > > > > Here are some photos of the carb and the suspension, if that helps. > > > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157631164691228/ > > > > Thanks again for the advice. > > > > Tony Seideman > > > > --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Rick Wagner > > wrote: > > > > > > from the looks of it, you will likely need to overhaul your carb. The > > kits > > > are available still for the Rochester carbs. They are fairly easy to > > > disassemble. Lay all the parts out as you take it aprt so you can > > recall > > > how it goes back together. The kits have an expolded view of the carb. > > The > > > kit also has some basic ajustment values for you to use when finshed. > > Clean > > > it in a can of the carb cleaner you can get at the FLAPS. Cleaner is > > better > > > when it comes to carbs. Spotless is the way the insude should be. be > > > advised on the spark plugsyou should not sand them. this will > > cause > > > detonation possibly. use a brass type wire brush and scrape off any > > really > > > tough deposits. try not to harm the electrodes and chek the porcelin > > for > > > cracks. As always some new plugs are the best bet if available. Use a > > known > > > clean source for the fuel to your rebuilt carb. I bet the gas tank on > > the > > > beast is in rough shape inside. Get an old lawn mower tank and use it > > till > > > you get the engine running well. Some oil in each sprk plug hole and > > rotate > > > it all a few times will ensure the cylinders will not be damaged when > > it > > > fires the first time. Expect a bunch of smoke ! Its a blast to get one > > > running again! good luck!! > > > > > > On Sun, Aug
[old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine Restoration.
I have been listening to people's advice. I figured out that my Loadmaster does not have a stock fuel pump. Here are images of the pump, distributor, fuel tank and such: http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157631227845632/ I primed the fuel line above the pump and tried starting the truck. No joy again--not even the pops that came from the first time. It was like there wasn't any ignition energy hitting the plugs at all. So I detached the fuel line at the pump end. Dry as a bone. I detached the line at the tank end. There were a few drops on the fitting, which I wire brushed and air blasted. Then I hit the disconnected line with compressed air. Went through like a breeze. I wasn't sure if the fitting going into the tank was clean, so I hit it with compressed air. The air went in--air and gasoline came spouting right out. A faceful of gasoline is not fun. I presume the air went in, pressurized the tank, and then came spouting out. So, maybe, in a way, it was good news. Anyway, I think the fuel line is clear. But I'm not sure about the choke cable and, also, whether I'm actually getting any sparks out of the system. I will persevere. Tony Seideman --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, "Lowell" wrote: > > There may be a fuel valve below the tank. It may be shut off. You could > also disconnect fuel line under tank and see if gas flows. I had rust or > gunk plugging fuel line at bottom of tank. I blew some compressed air to open > it. > > Be a bit careful because there may be a wire-screen filter where the fuel > line connects to the tank. > > Lowell - Grandpa's 1941 Chevy 3/4 ton > Durham, NC > > --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, wrote: > > > > I would prime the pump by pouring some gas into the line that is near the > > carb, back thru the filter and thru the mechanical fuel pump. Bill in > > Oregon > > > > > > > > _ > > > > From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com > > [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tonydsny > > Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2012 6:27 AM > > To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com > > Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine > > Restoration. > > > > > > > > > > > > No joy in the starting. I got the battery, and, just for kicks, put a couple > > of gallons in the tank. > > > > It turned over, but never really caught. There is a fuel filter before the > > carb, and it was completely dry, so I think that there is a blockage in the > > line. > > > > Busy today. Will try another approach tomorrow. > > > > Tony Seideman > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine Restoration.
Weird sparks are the latest adventure. I went out and got a simple circuit tester (My 12 volt one had some LCD stuff going on)and tried to check out what was going on. I also took the distributor cap off. http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157631277974708/ When I put the tester across the circuit on top of the coil, nothing happened. But while I was moving the coil to get at the distributor, there were some sparks and even a little smoked. To me, it looked as if the red line in some of the pictures was sparking off the silver line--which seems crazy, because they both end at the same nut. As you can see from the pictures, the distributor and its parts look fairly clean. The coil is relatively new. I am really in unexplored territory here. I would think the coil might be dead, but the strange sparks say otherwise. Also, bracing the starter down so I could see the truck go through its ignition cycle didn't work for some reason. And, when the batter is in, I get a steady click, about once every five seconds, from around the dashboard. Any ideas? Tony Seideman --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, "tonydsny" wrote: > > I have been listening to people's advice. I figured out that my Loadmaster > does not have a stock fuel pump. > > Here are images of the pump, distributor, fuel tank and such: > http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157631227845632/ > > > I primed the fuel line above the pump and tried starting the truck. No joy > again--not even the pops that came from the first time. It was like there > wasn't any ignition energy hitting the plugs at all. > > So I detached the fuel line at the pump end. Dry as a bone. I detached the > line at the tank end. There were a few drops on the fitting, which I wire > brushed and air blasted. > > Then I hit the disconnected line with compressed air. Went through like a > breeze. I wasn't sure if the fitting going into the tank was clean, so I hit > it with compressed air. The air went in--air and gasoline came spouting right > out. A faceful of gasoline is not fun. > > I presume the air went in, pressurized the tank, and then came spouting out. > So, maybe, in a way, it was good news. > > Anyway, I think the fuel line is clear. But I'm not sure about the choke > cable and, also, whether I'm actually getting any sparks out of the system. > > I will persevere. > > Tony Seideman > > --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, "Lowell" wrote: > > > > There may be a fuel valve below the tank. It may be shut off. You could > > also disconnect fuel line under tank and see if gas flows. I had rust or > > gunk plugging fuel line at bottom of tank. I blew some compressed air to > > open it. > > > > Be a bit careful because there may be a wire-screen filter where the fuel > > line connects to the tank. > > > > Lowell - Grandpa's 1941 Chevy 3/4 ton > > Durham, NC > > > > --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, wrote: > > > > > > I would prime the pump by pouring some gas into the line that is near the > > > carb, back thru the filter and thru the mechanical fuel pump. Bill in > > > Oregon > > > > > > > > > > > > _ > > > > > > From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com > > > [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tonydsny > > > Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2012 6:27 AM > > > To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com > > > Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine > > > Restoration. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > No joy in the starting. I got the battery, and, just for kicks, put a > > > couple > > > of gallons in the tank. > > > > > > It turned over, but never really caught. There is a fuel filter before the > > > carb, and it was completely dry, so I think that there is a blockage in > > > the > > > line. > > > > > > Busy today. Will try another approach tomorrow. > > > > > > Tony Seideman > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine Restoration.
Thanks again for all the advice. I think the entire wiring setup in the vehicle needs to go, but my focus right now is simply on getting the thing to start to see if it's capable of running. I have been taking all the pointers people have been giving me and putting them into a single file. This will go to the top of the list. My battery is a brand new 6V Optima. My charger just died, so I've got to get a new one. In the meantime, I'm going to throw myself on the mercy of a local gas station to make sure I don't drain the thing dry. When touch the tester to the battery terminals, I get a dull but real light; I think that's because the test light is a 6V/12v setup, and that's what I'm getting with 6V. I will keep you advised as to how things are going. Tony Seideman --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, "Hanlon, Bill" wrote: > > My first comment is that the wiring I can see in these pictures is really a > mess. If it were me, I'd ditch it all and start over. > > But it isn't me. > > I am assuming this is a 6 volt negative ground system. > Is the battery 6 volts? > Does the negative terminal on the battery connect to ground? > > The next question to answer is what does this test light look like in a 6 > volt circuit. > Leave the key off. > Place the clip end of the test light on the negative terminal of the battery. > Touch the pointed end of the test light to the positive terminal of the > battery. > Does the test light turn on? If so, try to remember how bright. > Swap where the pointed end and clip are attached. > Does the test light turn on? If so, try to remember how bright. > > Attach the clip to a good clean ground such as an engine bolt that you have > cleaned with sand paper or a wire brush. If the wire on the clip is long > enough attach the clip to the ground connection on the battery instead. > Pry open the points with a screwdriver and slip a piece of paper or light > cardboard between the points. > Determine which one of the two connections on the coil goes to the > distributor points. We will call the the coil - connection. The other > connection on the coil will be called the coil + connection. > Turn the key on. > Touch the pointed end of the test light to the coil + connection. It should > be as bright as the light was when you had it across the battery. > Touch the pointed end of the test light to the coil - connection. It should > be as bright as the light was when you had it across the battery. > Touch the pointed end of the test light to the wire connection on the points. > It should be as bright as the light was when you had it across the battery. > Turn the key off. > Remove the paper/cardboard from between the points. > > Turn the engine over by hand until the points are closed (touching each > other). > Turn the key on. > Touch the pointed end of the test light to the coil + connection. It should > be as bright as the light was when you had it across the battery. > Touch the pointed end of the test light to the coil - connection. It should > not light. If it does, touch the pointed end of the test light to the wire > connection on the points. It should not light. > Turn the key off. > Remove the paper/cardboard from between the points. > > Once you get the answers to these questions post them and we'll go on to the > next steps. > ____________ > From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tonydsny > Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2012 12:50 PM > To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine > Restoration. > > > > Weird sparks are the latest adventure. > > I went out and got a simple circuit tester (My 12 volt one had some LCD stuff > going on)and tried to check out what was going on. I also took the > distributor cap off. > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157631277974708/ > > When I put the tester across the circuit on top of the coil, nothing > happened. But while I was moving the coil to get at the distributor, there > were some sparks and even a little smoked. > > To me, it looked as if the red line in some of the pictures was sparking off > the silver line--which seems crazy, because they both end at the same nut. > > As you can see from the pictures, the distributor and its parts look fairly > clean. The coil is relatively new. > > I am really in unexplored territory here. I would think the coil might be > dead, but the strange sparks say otherwise. > > Also, bracing the starter down so I could see the truck go through its > ignition cycle didn't
[old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine Restoration.
You cannot connect the tester across both coil termnals and expect it to work . The basic idea is : one end of the tester (usually the clip end) is connected to a known good ground (in this case the steel coil bracket) and the other end (the tester's tip) is touched to where you hope to see current . Another thing I see wrong is : two wires leading from the coil to the distributor ~ that won't work . So : remove that mangled old wire with bare spots from the truck and set it aside . Disconnect all the wires from the coil and clean the top of the coil well , look for markings casted in , one will be a " + " and the other should be a " - " . Hold both wires from touching anything and turn on the key , touch the tip of the tester to each wire in turn , one should have current and make the tester light up , dimly . If not , test the tester's ground connection by touching the tester's ip to the posative battery cable where it connects to the starter ~ if it lights up , fine . if not , either the tester has a bad gound , doesn't work or the battery is dead . This is all super basic stuff but you're learning it on the fly ~ no worries , we'll talk you through it , may take some time though . -Nate Tony wrote : > > Weird sparks are the latest adventure. > > I went out and got a simple circuit tester (My 12 volt one had some LCD stuff > going on)and tried to check out what was going on. I also took the > distributor cap off. > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157631277974708/ > > When I put the tester across the circuit on top of the coil, nothing > happened. But while I was moving the coil to get at the distributor, there > were some sparks and even a little smoked. > > To me, it looked as if the red line in some of the pictures was sparking off > the silver line--which seems crazy, because they both end at the same nut. > > As you can see from the pictures, the distributor and its parts look fairly > clean. The coil is relatively new. > > I am really in unexplored territory here. I would think the coil might be > dead, but the strange sparks say otherwise. > > Also, bracing the starter down so I could see the truck go through its > ignition cycle didn't work for some reason. > > And, when the batter is in, I get a steady click, about once every five > seconds, from around the dashboard. > > Any ideas? > > Tony Seideman > > > Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine Restoration.
I just meant that if you are priming the engine by pouring gas directly down the carb throat or spraying in starter fluid (and we have all done those things) there is a risk of a spark catching the volatile vapor where it isn't supposed to and harming the owner rather badly. They say to pour the gas from a small paper cup rather than pour from a gas can, so you aren't dangling a bomb in front of your own face. That's all I meant by that. jt On Aug 19, 2012, at 12:01 PM, "tonydsny" wrote: > Thanks so much for the response. > > It was actually a training truck; never used for fires in my community. They > only used it for a few years. Then they put it on ebay. I promised my wife my > limit was $1,000. I won it for $2,000. Haven't heard the end of that one yet. > > Just a quick question: what's wrong with putting a volatile into the carb? > Doesn't it already use one--gasoline? > > Tony Seideman > > --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Jonas Thaler wrote: > > > > That fire truck is a beauty! And what a monument to both small town history > > in general and fire-fighting heroism in particular. Me want one too! > > > > The only things I might suggest are to check if the fuel pump is sending > > fuel and does the carb then spray little sprays of "atomized" gas into its > > own throat? And please be careful when you put anything volatile directly > > into the carburetor! > > > > > > > > On Aug 19, 2012, at 8:21 AM, "tonydsny" wrote: > > > > > In 2005, I purchased a 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Truck and > > > promptly parked it in my garage, where it has stayed since, virtually > > > untouched. > > > > > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157630956792770/ > > > > > > I was going to wait until I could get it fully restored, but I recently > > > decided that was disrespectful to the machine. I was concerned the engine > > > has locked because it sat for so long, but, on the advice of people in > > > the Stovebolt group, yesterday I pulled the plugs and it turned > > > relatively easy once the compression was released. > > > > > > Because the battery was very, exceedingly, totally dead, I ordered an > > > Optima 6V, which will be arriving the 22nd. Today I'm wire brushing, > > > sanding and gapping the plugs. I am definitely not a car guy; getting the > > > plugs out was a significant achievement for me. But I've got the original > > > manual and a book on Chevy restoration. > > > > > > What other simple things can I do as an inexperienced person to increase > > > the chance of the truck actually starting when I put the battery in? > > > > > > Is it a good idea to use startup fluid? > > > > > > Should I hit the carb with a bunch of Gunk remover? > > > > > > Also, there isn't a lot of rust on the body, but there are some ugly > > > spots. Should I sand them down and put primer as a prep for the actual > > > paint job? I don't like the measles look, but better that than more > > > corrosion. > > > > > > Here are some more shots of the mechanicals: > > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157631115324428/ > > > > > > Can't tell you how good it felt to tug on the flywheel, seem to feel it > > > move, push, and have it rotate. Wow. Having a 25-foot, 3,000 pound > > > doorstop would have been a bit much. > > > > > > Tony Seideman > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine Restoration.
whats done is done. i would not worry with it. the engine is fairly low compression. they may be fine. Give it a try first. spring for new ones as the budget permits. On Mon, Aug 20, 2012 at 10:30 AM, tonydsny wrote: > ** > > > Urp. Argh. So I shouldn't believe everything I read on the internet? > > I went over the plugs with a 100 grit diamond sharpening sheet. > > I know that the gas in my cylinders is supposed to detonate--but I don't > think you're talking about it that way. > > At this point, due to the economy and other issues, my budget is very > limited. Is it really likely I'll pop a crankshaft or a head with my > freshly mutilated spark plugs? > > And I thought restoring a 110 year old, 4,000 square foot house was a > pain > > At least it came with a five bay garage--which I've filled--and need to > empty for this project. > > And I felt such triumph when I put the plugs backed in. Now it looks like > I've been plugged over. > > Tony Seideman > > --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Rick Wagner wrote: > > > > from the looks of it, you will likely need to overhaul your carb. The > kits > > are available still for the Rochester carbs. They are fairly easy to > > disassemble. Lay all the parts out as you take it aprt so you can recall > > how it goes back together. The kits have an expolded view of the carb. > The > > kit also has some basic ajustment values for you to use when finshed. > Clean > > it in a can of the carb cleaner you can get at the FLAPS. Cleaner is > better > > when it comes to carbs. Spotless is the way the insude should be. be > > advised on the spark plugsyou should not sand them. this will cause > > detonation possibly. use a brass type wire brush and scrape off any > really > > tough deposits. try not to harm the electrodes and chek the porcelin for > > cracks. As always some new plugs are the best bet if available. Use a > known > > clean source for the fuel to your rebuilt carb. I bet the gas tank on the > > beast is in rough shape inside. Get an old lawn mower tank and use it > till > > you get the engine running well. Some oil in each sprk plug hole and > rotate > > it all a few times will ensure the cylinders will not be damaged when it > > fires the first time. Expect a bunch of smoke ! Its a blast to get one > > running again! good luck!! > > > > On Sun, Aug 19, 2012 at 10:21 AM, tonydsny wrote: > > > > > ** > > > > > > > > > In 2005, I purchased a 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Truck and > promptly > > > parked it in my garage, where it has stayed since, virtually untouched. > > > > > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157630956792770/ > > > > > > I was going to wait until I could get it fully restored, but I recently > > > decided that was disrespectful to the machine. I was concerned the > engine > > > has locked because it sat for so long, but, on the advice of people in > the > > > Stovebolt group, yesterday I pulled the plugs and it turned relatively > easy > > > once the compression was released. > > > > > > Because the battery was very, exceedingly, totally dead, I ordered an > > > Optima 6V, which will be arriving the 22nd. Today I'm wire brushing, > > > sanding and gapping the plugs. I am definitely not a car guy; getting > the > > > plugs out was a significant achievement for me. But I've got the > original > > > manual and a book on Chevy restoration. > > > > > > What other simple things can I do as an inexperienced person to > increase > > > the chance of the truck actually starting when I put the battery in? > > > > > > Is it a good idea to use startup fluid? > > > > > > Should I hit the carb with a bunch of Gunk remover? > > > > > > Also, there isn't a lot of rust on the body, but there are some ugly > > > spots. Should I sand them down and put primer as a prep for the actual > > > paint job? I don't like the measles look, but better that than more > > > corrosion. > > > > > > Here are some more shots of the mechanicals: > > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157631115324428/ > > > > > > Can't tell you how good it felt to tug on the flywheel, seem to feel it > > > move, push, and have it rotate. Wow. Having a 25-foot, 3,000 pound > doorstop > > > would have been a bit much. > > > > > > Tony Seideman > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com
Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine Restoration.
Hi guys, For a gas source, get a piece of rubber gas line, 4' is usually enough to get anywhere. Then cut the fuel line from the original gas tank 6" from the fuel filter, and slip the rubber hose over the end that leads to the fuel filter. Take the other end of the rubber hose and stick an old piece of metal tubing into it and drop it right into your portable gas can. (2 gal, 5 gal, whatever you want) the metal tube will hold the rubber hose in the gas can and the fuel pump will suck the gas through the filter. If you don't want to cut the line from the gas tank, go to your Flaps and get a short piece of steel fuel line and cut it in two pieces. The longer one will go into the gas can to hold it down and the short one will screw into the fuel pump. You won't have to worry about kicking anything over, hanging it up or slopping it over the project. When your done, pull the tube out of the gas can, put the cover on the candone. Wana get fancy, pick up one of those portable fuel tanks, red plastic, holds 5 to 10 gals, and has a fuel gage in the cap. They probably cost $45 by now. Have fun, jimk -Original Message- From: tonydsny Reply-to: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine Restoration. Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 20:13:30 - Thanks again. I've got an old, dead rototiller I can take the tank off of and clean up. How big a tank do I need to use? And how do I hook it up to the truck's fuel system? Another thing: my truck is leaning about three inches to left. I couldn't get to the valves to check the pressure, but I measured the height of the tires, and the rim for the left tire is 6.5 inches high, while the right rim is 7 inches. Could this result in a 3 inch lean, or is something going on with the suspension or leafs? Here are some photos of the carb and the suspension, if that helps. http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157631164691228/ Thanks again for the advice. Tony Seideman --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Rick Wagner wrote: > > from the looks of it, you will likely need to overhaul your carb. The kits > are available still for the Rochester carbs. They are fairly easy to > disassemble. Lay all the parts out as you take it aprt so you can recall > how it goes back together. The kits have an expolded view of the carb. The > kit also has some basic ajustment values for you to use when finshed. Clean > it in a can of the carb cleaner you can get at the FLAPS. Cleaner is better > when it comes to carbs. Spotless is the way the insude should be. be > advised on the spark plugsyou should not sand them. this will cause > detonation possibly. use a brass type wire brush and scrape off any really > tough deposits. try not to harm the electrodes and chek the porcelin for > cracks. As always some new plugs are the best bet if available. Use a known > clean source for the fuel to your rebuilt carb. I bet the gas tank on the > beast is in rough shape inside. Get an old lawn mower tank and use it till > you get the engine running well. Some oil in each sprk plug hole and rotate > it all a few times will ensure the cylinders will not be damaged when it > fires the first time. Expect a bunch of smoke ! Its a blast to get one > running again! good luck!! > > On Sun, Aug 19, 2012 at 10:21 AM, tonydsny wrote: > > > ** > > > > > > In 2005, I purchased a 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Truck and promptly > > parked it in my garage, where it has stayed since, virtually untouched. > > > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157630956792770/ > > > > I was going to wait until I could get it fully restored, but I recently > > decided that was disrespectful to the machine. I was concerned the engine > > has locked because it sat for so long, but, on the advice of people in the > > Stovebolt group, yesterday I pulled the plugs and it turned relatively easy > > once the compression was released. > > > > Because the battery was very, exceedingly, totally dead, I ordered an > > Optima 6V, which will be arriving the 22nd. Today I'm wire brushing, > > sanding and gapping the plugs. I am definitely not a car guy; getting the > > plugs out was a significant achievement for me. But I've got the original > > manual and a book on Chevy restoration. > > > > What other simple things can I do as an inexperienced person to increase > > the chance of the truck actually starting when I put the battery in? > > > > Is it a good idea to use startup fluid? > > > > Should I hit the carb with a bunch of Gunk remover? > > > > Also, there isn't a lot of rust on the body, but there are some ugly &g
RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine Restoration.
I would prime the pump by pouring some gas into the line that is near the carb, back thru the filter and thru the mechanical fuel pump. Bill in Oregon _ From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tonydsny Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2012 6:27 AM To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine Restoration. No joy in the starting. I got the battery, and, just for kicks, put a couple of gallons in the tank. It turned over, but never really caught. There is a fuel filter before the carb, and it was completely dry, so I think that there is a blockage in the line. Busy today. Will try another approach tomorrow. Tony Seideman [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine Restoration.
My first comment is that the wiring I can see in these pictures is really a mess. If it were me, I'd ditch it all and start over. But it isn't me. I am assuming this is a 6 volt negative ground system. Is the battery 6 volts? Does the negative terminal on the battery connect to ground? The next question to answer is what does this test light look like in a 6 volt circuit. Leave the key off. Place the clip end of the test light on the negative terminal of the battery. Touch the pointed end of the test light to the positive terminal of the battery. Does the test light turn on? If so, try to remember how bright. Swap where the pointed end and clip are attached. Does the test light turn on? If so, try to remember how bright. Attach the clip to a good clean ground such as an engine bolt that you have cleaned with sand paper or a wire brush. If the wire on the clip is long enough attach the clip to the ground connection on the battery instead. Pry open the points with a screwdriver and slip a piece of paper or light cardboard between the points. Determine which one of the two connections on the coil goes to the distributor points. We will call the the coil - connection. The other connection on the coil will be called the coil + connection. Turn the key on. Touch the pointed end of the test light to the coil + connection. It should be as bright as the light was when you had it across the battery. Touch the pointed end of the test light to the coil - connection. It should be as bright as the light was when you had it across the battery. Touch the pointed end of the test light to the wire connection on the points. It should be as bright as the light was when you had it across the battery. Turn the key off. Remove the paper/cardboard from between the points. Turn the engine over by hand until the points are closed (touching each other). Turn the key on. Touch the pointed end of the test light to the coil + connection. It should be as bright as the light was when you had it across the battery. Touch the pointed end of the test light to the coil - connection. It should not light. If it does, touch the pointed end of the test light to the wire connection on the points. It should not light. Turn the key off. Remove the paper/cardboard from between the points. Once you get the answers to these questions post them and we'll go on to the next steps. From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tonydsny Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2012 12:50 PM To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine Restoration. Weird sparks are the latest adventure. I went out and got a simple circuit tester (My 12 volt one had some LCD stuff going on)and tried to check out what was going on. I also took the distributor cap off. http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157631277974708/ When I put the tester across the circuit on top of the coil, nothing happened. But while I was moving the coil to get at the distributor, there were some sparks and even a little smoked. To me, it looked as if the red line in some of the pictures was sparking off the silver line--which seems crazy, because they both end at the same nut. As you can see from the pictures, the distributor and its parts look fairly clean. The coil is relatively new. I am really in unexplored territory here. I would think the coil might be dead, but the strange sparks say otherwise. Also, bracing the starter down so I could see the truck go through its ignition cycle didn't work for some reason. And, when the batter is in, I get a steady click, about once every five seconds, from around the dashboard. Any ideas? Tony Seideman --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>, "tonydsny" wrote: > > I have been listening to people's advice. I figured out that my Loadmaster > does not have a stock fuel pump. > > Here are images of the pump, distributor, fuel tank and such: > http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157631227845632/ > > > I primed the fuel line above the pump and tried starting the truck. No joy > again--not even the pops that came from the first time. It was like there > wasn't any ignition energy hitting the plugs at all. > > So I detached the fuel line at the pump end. Dry as a bone. I detached the > line at the tank end. There were a few drops on the fitting, which I wire > brushed and air blasted. > > Then I hit the disconnected line with compressed air. Went through like a > breeze. I wasn't sure if the fitting going into the tank was clean, so I hit > it with compressed air. The air went in--air and gasoline came spouting right > out. A faceful of gasoline is not fun. > > I presume the air went in, pre
