Re: James' VIN stamp, now need 1968 info.

[HURSTOLDZ]

In a message dated 11/11/2006 12:01:56 AM  Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
The last one I found  was on the kick up on the drivers side just over the 
rear axel/differential  pocket, running towards the down side at about a 4:00 
stance on the out  board side of the frame  VERY clear.

Hey  Guys

Karl Sup  told me to look in that same spot   but  frame is crusty up  there, 
 but it will be going to the blaster this week  so once it is  cleaned up  I 
will look and report back



Vinny 
62  Starfire  (long gone)
64 442 post coupe  (sold)
65 442 holiday  (my first car,long gone)
65 442 post coupe  (long gone)
70 W31  Cutlass  (long gone)
77 Cutlass Supreme Brougham  T-Tops   (long gone)
83 98 coupe   (long gone)
86 442 (stolen 3 weeks  after I bought it)
95 Caddy Seville SLS (lease, gone)
98 Caddy Eldo ETC (  lease, gone)
01 Aurora  (lease, gone)
96 Chevy Tahoe (gone)
68  Hurst/Oldsmobile W45 #511Still mine 
99 Caddy STS Daily  Driver

To see my cars, click here Yahoo! Photos - My 1968 Hurst Olds  Pictures or 
cut and paste this link into your search  box
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hurstoldz/album?.dir=/bb8e&.src=ph&.tok=phptunDB
tLO21kvG   

Re: James' VIN stamp, now need 1968 info.

[Mike Pemberton]

The last one I found was on the kick up on the drivers side just over the 
rear axel/differential pocket, running towards the down side at about a 4:00 
stance on the out board side of the frame  VERY clear.


Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Christopher Witt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 9:01 AM
Subject: Re: James' VIN stamp, now need 1968 info.



Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2006 09:51:54 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: James' VIN stamp, now need 1968 info.

I looked over my 68 frame yesterday and I see no  such stamp

Vinny
..++
From: Kerry Doyle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: James' VIN stamp, now need 1968 info.

I have looked extensivley over my 68 frame, it is bare
metal, and have not found any vin type number.  I
doubt it exist for 68.
Kerry
=
oh, it's there allright, unless the frame has been replaced. The 1966 
Lansing built 442 I helped restore had one, on the LH rear kickup, top 
surface, I believe.

Location varies, but it IS there.
We looked and looked on the '66 frame to no avail, until after it was 
sandblasted, then it was easy to find. The VIN stamps on the latest '70 
frame were pretty easy to find too, the frame was not all rusty per usual 
MI fare.

---
Chris Witt

_
Stay in touch with old friends and meet new ones with Windows Live Spaces 
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Re: GA contact to go see the 69/70 Cutlass?

[Kerry Doyle]

Chris 
If it is the one of a kind preproduction 70 demo car
with 69 documentation grab it!  It ought to bring
really BIG money at a BJ auction.
Kerry

--- Christopher Witt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> Who's near Hortense GA that can go see the 70 with a
> 69 title?
> 
> Perhaps I just ask their local Sherriff to drop by
> over there to ck in on 
> the car?
> ---
> Chris Witt
> *the* Rocket Scientist
> 1303 W. Miller Rd.
> Lansing MI 48911
> 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or
> leave message.
> Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days
> 
>
_
> Get FREE company branded e-mail accounts and
> business Web site from 
> Microsoft Office Live 
>
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/mcrssaub0050001411mrt/direct/01/
> 
> 

Re: Oil

[Mark Sopp]

Paul..Please Send my tape back..




Mark Sopp

http://community.webtv.net/vfquick442/My1970442

--- Begin Message ---
Diesel oil is the way to go. Plenty of zinc and other additives for flat
tappet cams.






Paul 





--- End Message ---

bad chebucto E-mails

[Infinite Space Systems, Inc.]

Greg,

I just got 4 E-mails from my server that were dated 6 to 10 days ago when 
they were sent out to the Olds List by the Olds List members. Yesterday, I 
received 3 E-mail confirmations for E-mails I had sent out to the Olds List 
over 3 to 5 days ago. Is chebucto having a problem?

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 

72 Cutlass starting problems

[bcroe]

Glad its fixed.  Next time use an HEI.  Bruce Roe

10 Nov 2006  "DeVries, Garth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:
> I had a weird problem with my 1970 Cutlass Conv.  It would start cold
> and run for a little while and then stop and never start again until 
> it
> was cold again.  After changing several parts and working on it at 
> dusk
> I noticed my coil wire was arcing off the manifold.  Replaced the 
> coil
> wire and the problem was fixed.  What was happening was the coil 
> wire
> would heat up and sag towards the manifold.  The coil wore would 
> then
> arc and interrupt the spark.  Then the engine would stop.  During 
> the
> times it would not start I had a lot of fuel in the carb.  It even
> caught the fuel on fire from the arcing spark. So I ended up 
> rebuilding
> the carb too.  

> For what it is worth.
> 
> Garth DeVries

Re: 425 worth getting???

[Troy Provost]

Get it for the forged crank.  It is the same as the 400 short stroke 442 
engine.   I believe my friend is still looking for a crank.  I believe the 
heads are also big valve heads.  Same as a 442, but engine stamp on front 
right hand head would be incorrect.  A four barrel intake should have some 
value.  Oil pan?   Get It.  Later, Troy



At 04:41 PM 11/4/2006, you wrote:

I was walking through a local wrecking yard today looking for some parts and
what did I happen to see but a 1966 Toronado, or what was left of it.  I
popped the hood and sure enough the B headed 425 was all there intact,
except for the carb.  The motor is locked solid and has probably been that
way for a very long.  The owner of the wrecking yard said that car has been
there so long he doesn't even remember when it came in.  With this motor
sitting for so long with no carb on it and being as it is seized up, is it
still worth pulling out.  Is there anything salvageable or worthwhile on it
that I should get the whole motor.  I know the B heads will be big valve as
it is a Toronado and will also have forged crank.  Is this alone reason
enough to get it?  I can pull it myself with the torches and he will only
charge tonnage.  Might be $50.  Worth it or walk away?

Marty McLeod

69 Cutlass S Convertible 455
69 Vista Cruiser

1968 4 piston caliper #'s needed

[HURSTOLDZ]

Hey all  
 
I wanted to check the calipers I have to make sure they are correct before 
I have them rebuilt.  Does anyone here know the correct casting numbers for 
the 68 Olds 442 disc brake calipers?
 
Thank you everyone
 
Vinny 62 
Starfire  (long gone)64 442 post coupe  (sold)65 442 holiday 
(my first car,long gone)65 442 post coupe  (long gone)70 W31 
Cutlass  (long gone)77 Cutlass Supreme Brougham  T-Tops  
(long gone)83 98 coupe   (long gone)86 442 (stolen 3 weeks 
after I bought it)95 Caddy Seville SLS (lease, gone)98 Caddy Eldo ETC ( 
lease, gone)01 Aurora  (lease, gone)96 Chevy Tahoe (gone)68 
Hurst/Oldsmobile W45 #511    Still mine 99 Caddy STS 
Daily DriverTo see my cars, click here Yahoo! 
Photos - My 1968 Hurst Olds Pictures or cut and paste this 
link into your search boxhttp://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hurstoldz/album?.dir=/bb8e&.src="">

Re: 1998 Intrigue GL noises

[Andrew Geeting]

I just checked all of these. Pulled the belt off and spun each by hand.

After spinning the idler pulley, it has a small clicking noise. Not sure 
if that would be it or not, as I'm not able to spin it fast enough and 
consistently enough to emulate engine speed.


I also spun the alternator and it had a grinding noise to it. Didn't 
feel right but again, not sure if this is it or not. I may go to the 
local parts store tomorrow and see if they will let me spin a new 
alternator by hand just to check.


Water pump seemed fine, so did the A/C and power steering pump.

Thanks,

Andrew Geeting
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Yes, that's it. Water pump bearing first guess, alternator front bearing 
second. After the bearing warms up enough, it quiets a little.


Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 




 

Re: 65 Cutlass AXLES

[Kevin Wright]

On Nov 9, 2006, at 1:51 PM, Schopen, Kenneth wrote:


Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2006 10:18:12 -0600
From: Kevin Wright <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 65 Cutlass AXLES


Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2006 06:48:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kerry Doyle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 65 Cutlass AXLES

Unbolt the retainers on the ends of the housing. Get an axle puller
(Auto Zone will loan one to you) and jerk out the axles. Clean the
axles, press off the old bearings and retainers and press
on the new bearings and retainers.

Next remove the old axle seals and replace them with new ones. You
will need a seal puller or a slide hammer with an attachment. The
seals are pressed in the end of the axle housing. The best way to
press them back in is to find a socket that is rhe right
diameter and hammer them back into the axle tubes.


I'm sorry, what?
The seals are outboard of the bearings on my '70 O-type
12-bolt, meaning that one has to change the bearings to
change the seal. I had to do that just a year ago - wasted a
perfectly good bearing. Are '65 O-types different?


Kevin,

Yes, the early O-Types are different than the later 1970 O-Type.

The 1970 O-Type (and the '71 and up 8.5" corporate 10 bolt rears) use
the same axle bearing and seal, which is an open bearing and a seal
that is pressed onto the axle shaft, sandwiched between the bearing
and the axle flange (Timken Set9 and 712146). The early O-Type  
('67-'69)


uses a sealed bearing and the oil seal is pressed into the end of the
axle tube (RW507C and 8594S). As you can imagine from this, the axle
shafts and housings are not interchangeable between the early and late
versions. I found this out the hard way and now have three "spare"
rears in the garage.

With that said, note that the original e-mail was about a 1965 rear,
which is probably an 8.2" 10 bolt, likely of the B or P variety.
12 bolt O-Types  didn't come into use until 1967.


Ah, thank you. I can now add this to my growing base of Olds knowledge.
Thanks to Milton, who also confirmed this.

On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright  
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX http:// 
www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/70Olds.html


'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: http://www.wankel.net/ 
~krwright/cars/olds/71_cutlass.html


Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a  
W-31! And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :)
...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll  
be parts if someone doesn't buy it!

Re: James' VIN stamp, now need 1968 info.

[Christopher Witt]

Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2006 09:51:54 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: James' VIN stamp, now need 1968 info.

I looked over my 68 frame yesterday and I see no  such stamp

Vinny
..++
From: Kerry Doyle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: James' VIN stamp, now need 1968 info.

I have looked extensivley over my 68 frame, it is bare
metal, and have not found any vin type number.  I
doubt it exist for 68.
Kerry
=
oh, it's there allright, unless the frame has been replaced. The 1966 
Lansing built 442 I helped restore had one, on the LH rear kickup, top 
surface, I believe.

Location varies, but it IS there.
We looked and looked on the '66 frame to no avail, until after it was 
sandblasted, then it was easy to find. The VIN stamps on the latest '70 
frame were pretty easy to find too, the frame was not all rusty per usual MI 
fare.

---
Chris Witt

_
Stay in touch with old friends and meet new ones with Windows Live Spaces 
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Re: Valve Cover Gaskets: Cork or Rubber Better?

[woodstonesbones]

Hello
Thats easy with my 72 car or the 66-67 cars i had before.
Later cars have many bolt holes threw covers and tabs to hold on(lucky ducks).
Try attaching covers with only 2 bolts threw the top of covers nowhere near 
the gasket.
You dont want the gaskets moving.
I have seen a few 1st gen. Olds covered in oil cause of this.
At least the cars dont rust as fast covered in oil.
I take my covers off to adjust/check the valve lash often on the 371.
I have had zero leaks/dry as a bone for 3 motor pulls and installs,covers off 
many times. 
Permatex gasket to cover with brush on High tack(gas and oil safe).
I dont like RTV much,,have ya seen what it does near oil and gas!
It also gets in the water system,oil,inside motor,,yeck.
I do use it(thin)on the frt cover gasket/water pump holes,intake water 
passages at heads.
Milton said what i had forgotten,tap indents around bolt holes,i do this with 
oil pans and trans pans also.
Good Luck,drive safe.
Wandy(OleWubber)H.



Quoting [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

> Re: RTV, the last time this was discussed I took away that the gasket
> should be only tacked to the valve cover with "gorilla snot" (only to
> hold the gasket in place, not  necessarily to create a seal).
> 
> Then the clamping force of applying the bolts is what actually makes the
> seal, without benefit of RTV.
> 
> You don't want to put anything on the head side of the gasket.
> 
> - Original Message -
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Friday, November 10, 2006 3:16 am
> Subject: Valve Cover Gaskets:  Cork or Rubber Better?
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> 
> > My valve cover gaskets have a metal core.  Seem to 
> > work the best for me.  
> > 
> > 2 Nov 2006  Hans Naepflin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:
> > > Time to do my valve cover gaskets (70 350). Mine have really 
> > > sprung a leak since I started using Shell Rotella to try and stem 
> > > oil consumption per Milton's advice.May or may not be 
> > related.  
> > > They are probably 15 years old and are due anyway.
> > >
> > >   So which are the best ones?  Cork or rubber?  Felpro or other?
> > >
> > >   I'm guessing my local Pep Boys sdoesn't stock these anymore so 
> > I 
> > > thinking of doing mail order.   Which outfit will give me the 
> > best 
> > > deal on such a small item?   Rock Auto has Felpro's in like 4 
> > > flavors al for about 8 or 9 bucksWhich are best?   
> > >
> > >   Install dry or with RTV or other???
> > >
> > >   Lots of questions I know.
> > >
> > >   Thanks,  Hans
> > 
> 

Paging List Admin

[Christopher Witt]

From: "Duane Parks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: List member with Delivery Status Notification (Failure)
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2006 13:26:33 -0600




Duane Parks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Chris,

I hate to bother you with this 'cause I know you're busy, but came
across your email first (lucky you!).

For some reason I can't post to the list, nor can I send an email to
Greg to ask him to look into it.  They all bounce back with the same
error message, the one below.  Can you forward this to him for me?

Thanks!

Duane
72 Cutlass Convertible

-- Forwarded message --
From: Mail Delivery Subsystem <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Nov 9, 2006 1:12 PM
Subject: Delivery Status Notification (Failure)
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]


This is an automatically generated Delivery Status Notification

Delivery to the following recipient failed permanently:

   oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

Technical details of permanent failure:
PERM_FAILURE: SMTP Error (state 8): 553 5.7.1 For MAIL FROM address
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> access is denied by the policy analysis
functions.

 - Original message -

Received: by 10.35.105.18 with SMTP id h18mr1565013pym.1163099543149;
  Thu, 09 Nov 2006 11:12:23 -0800 (PST)
Received: by 10.35.118.5 with HTTP; Thu, 9 Nov 2006 11:12:22 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2006 13:12:22 -0600
From: "Duane Parks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: DETAILS, schmee-tails.
In-Reply-To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline
References: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
   <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

 - Message truncated -

_
Find a local pizza place, music store, museum and more…then map the best 
route!  http://local.live.com?FORM=MGA001

FW: when is a '70 not a '70 - ebay 160042176128

[Christopher Witt]

Dave and Listreaders;
[pix not attached for email list, but she got 'em]

Please fwd this with your thoughts on the matter to the poor girl who thinks 
that her 1970 Cutlass is a rare "transitional model Hurst" 1969 issue post 
but wait not a post car.


her eddress is: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
her ebay name: gearjammer5572

see the car at ebay: item # 160042176128
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=160042176128&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=006
or
http://tinyurl.com/ydj3yb

She says the VIN is 336879M431697, which SO does not match the photos.

My take on the matter is below:
..++


From: "Christopher Witt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]



Cindy:

Perhaps you just have the wrong photos in the ad. Perhaps you got the VIN 
off the PAPERWORK, and not off the vehicle itself. I had assumed that you 
knew how to find the VIN on the car itself, as you have assured me that you 
are not the typical girly girl.


I look at the ad for ebay # 160042176128 and I see a 1970 Cutlass...
Not a "transitional car," nor any type of 442, let alone a Hurst. Sorry.

Since you seem to be concerned about my qualifications, I assure you that I 
know this era Oldsmobile inside and out, FAR better than any "tax 
commisioner" or "Hollander" you may have handy. I have dismantled dozens of 
cars, 100's of engines, and even rebuilt a few cars from the bare frame up. 
You may wish to peruse the FAQ files on Oldsmobile thru e.g. 442.com, and 
notice who wrote much of the sections on Engines and Engine Parts. I have 
since learned much more about VIN's and Body Plates, and the hidden VIN 
stamps and such. You -so- will not win if you try to assert more knowledge 
than I have about this era Oldsmobile, so let's lay that to rest right now.


The item pictured in the ebay ad #160042176128 is all 1970 model year car.

Now, that's not BAD, there are many things about a 1970 that make it 
desirable. The one-year issue front fenders, for example. But, if you 
looked at that green car and got VIN # 336879M431697 off it... then your 
car has been subjected to VIN tampering, or else EVERY SINGLE BODY PANEL 
surrounding the VIN and body plate have been replaced with 1970 panels- and 
that is absurd. We went over this before. The 1969 models would have 
different: every piece fwd of the firewall except  the hood hinges; dors; 
rear quarter panels; decklid; rear bumper and brackets; etc. Can you 
imagine replacing all that with 1970  parts? Neither can I.


Attached is a photo of a real GM VIN rivet. Notice the scallops about the 
OD.
These rivets are generally, but not always, installed from the bottom, with 
the scrunched side on top and the scalloped head visible from underside 
with a flashlight. You will please ck your VIN rivets and see if they match 
real GM ones. If the rivet head is on top, simply pry loose the plastic 
bezel that should be in place about the VIN tag and you can then readily 
see the rivets.
  If the VIN rivets do not have that feature, then it has been fiddled 
with, and the police should be called in to check.
  If the VIN rivets to have scallops, and the plate actually reads 
"336879M431697" then it gets interesting.


The car's body plate will also state the Year of Issue: right after "ST..." 
on the top line or top full line... it will say "69" for a 1969 model year 
or your green car should say "70" of course. The body plate is typically 
seen on the cowl, driver's side, after opening the hood.


referring to the 1972 Parts Manual, based on what I see in the pix, your 
car's VIN is

332770_##, [F-85 V8 Club Coupe] or perhaps
336770_## [Cutlass V8 Sports Coupe (by far most likely)], or perhaps
344770_## [4-4-2 High Performance V8 Sports Coupe (nah, that's no 442)]

Of course by now you know that this decodes as follows:
3 = Olds division of GM
_32 = F85, or _36 = Cutlass V8 [most likely your car], or _44 = 442 [NOT 
your car]
___77 = the POST type body style, called either Club or Sports Coupe by 
Olds literature

_0 = last digit of year of issue; 0 = 1970; 9= 1969, etc.
__[blank above] next is a letter indicating the GM assembly plant
___## are the 6 digits of the car's sequential VIN, that car's 
exact ID number


The VIN you cite in the ad:  336879M431697
says
3= Olds,
_36 = Cutlass V8 line
___87 = HOLIDAY COUPE [No post *1]
_M = Lansing MI built.
__431697 = the car's sequential serial number.

*1- BUSTED!! This car obviously has a post and obviously is a 1970, 
therefore that VIN does not go with this car. If you got that VIN off the 
car itself, you have an altered VIN car and you must call the police 
immediately. If you have paperwork that does not match the car, then you 
need to iron that issue out with the person you bought it from.


A short version of this VIN info will be found stamped into the engine 
block, the trans, and 2-3 hidden locations on the frame as well. Sometimes 
on the cowl under the HVAC plenum 

Re: Thou frame per sec. starting line

[spddemun]

--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
...snip...
> Slow motion tire spin on dragsters.
> 
>
http://www.yourdailymedia.com/media/1161689783/Hig_FPS_Camera_Captures_Drag_Rac
> ing_Tires_Start
> 
> FYI,there are some not so family type links at top
> of page.
> Randy H.
> Van.B.C.Can.
> 
I don't know which was cooler...the tires or the
firing!  It's like sitting on a land rocket!  Karen


 

Want to start your own business? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business 
(http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com) 

77 Toro CTI- or not

[bcroe]

OK, correction.  I was putting away some parts (recently 
moved), and I FOUND the 77 Toro crank wheel.  I had 
already uncovered the pickup unit before.  

This wheel has 19 teeth per 1/4 turn of rotation.  MOST 
IMPORTANT, ONE of the 19 is an extra narrow tooth.  
This gives the electronics the information it needs to 
identify exactly where in the 1/4 turn it is.  So an Olds 
crank trigger system can be built around these parts.  

Practically speaking, the original system is set from 
the factory.  No EPROMs to adjust the advance map 
(which also includes vacuum and temp).  If you're not 
into low compression low reving 403s, it would be 
necessary to build new electronics to allow the spark 
advance map desired.  Easy enough for a few, 
impossible for most. Bruce Roe

11 Oct 2006  [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> If you look at the 77 toothed wheel, I believe you will see 
> the teeth are quite fine pitched.  So is the stationary 
> pickup part, with several teeth.  A crank trigger has 
> something like 4 large teeth (one for each 1/4 turn 
> to the next cylinder), and perhaps an extra one.  There 
> is no way for the 77 electronics to tell which tooth is 
> the reference trigger, and which are the "dozen others" 
> going by in the next 1/4 turn.  
> 
> Having said all this from memory, I will now be forced 
> to dig out a 77 system from my archives (presently 
> 70 miles away) and assure that there is no single 
> key tooth.  If there is no pickup coil in the 77 HEI, 
> then what I said only applies to the 78 Toro; an 
> HEI pickup coil isn't needed with crank trigger.
> 
> I drive a 77 Toro engine every day (Anvil Engine), but 
> the OEM ignition is long ago removed.  
> 
> While the 78 also uses an electronic advance, it 
> apparently was better able to drive rpm from the 
> HEI pickup coil, without other sensors.  
> 
> Bruce Roe
> 
> 11 Oct 2006  "Christopher Witt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
> writes:
> > 
> > The 77 Toro (403 engine) has no mechanical or vacuum
> > advance, it uses an electronic advance based on coolant
> > temperature and rpm.  However, the base timing is still
> > derived from the HEI pickup via the cam, it isn't a crank trigger.
> > 
> > Interesting
> > what is the toothed wheel and hall effect sensor at the front of 
> the 
> > crank 
> > for then?
> > ---
> > Chris Witt
> > *the* Rocket Scientist
> > 1303 W. Miller Rd.
> > Lansing MI 48911
> > 
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > 
> > Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave 
> message.
> > Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
> 

Re: Oil

[JOHN ORR]

Paul,

  "Diesel oil is the way to go. Plenty of zinc and other additives for flat
tappet cams."

 for now  but that too will come to an end...

john orr
67 cutlass supreme 4 spd
tampa

Re: Spark Plugs

[Doug Cuthill]

Thanks Milt

The AC 45s and AC43S are readily available but not the infamous AC44S.

Doug


Look for the equivalent in Autolite. I think, but won't swear to it, but:

Autolite 75 = AC 45S
Autolite 74 = AC 44S
Autolite 73 = AC 43S

Any "good" autoparts store should be able to get AC or Autolite.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


- Original Message - 
From: "Doug Cuthill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 8:04 AM
Subject: Re: Spark Plugs


I didn't see it. The plugs are the same. Use either an AC 44S or a 43S, 
depending on your type of driving. 44S for normal street driving and 43S 
for continuous high speed racing. Stay away from any resistor plug.



Milton Schick



Where is a source for the AC 44S plug. I have tried Dealers and Auto 
parts stores here and have had no luck getting tthem


Doug




--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.14.2/528 - Release Date: 
11/10/2006 2:31 PM

Oil

[Paul Tumolo]

Diesel oil is the way to go. Plenty of zinc and other additives for flat
tappet cams.






Paul 

VC Gaskets

[Paul Tumolo]

Only one gasket for an Olds: FelPro Perma Dry. Expensive, but reuseable and
lasts forever.






Paul 

Re: Valve Cover Gaskets: Cork or Rubber Better?

[Infinite Space Systems, Inc.]

I wouldn't use RTV with a gasket. In most cases, RTV and a gasket don't mix 
well. RTV works best when itself is the gasket. The RTV is used to make the 
entire gasket.

Permatex High Tack is *not* RTV. High Tack has much more in common 
with a contact cement that is totally impervious to oil and stays flexible.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: Valve Cover Gaskets: Cork or Rubber Better?


> Re: RTV, the last time this was discussed I took away that the gasket
> should be only tacked to the valve cover with "gorilla snot" (only to
> hold the gasket in place, not  necessarily to create a seal).
>
> Then the clamping force of applying the bolts is what actually makes the
> seal, without benefit of RTV.
>
> You don't want to put anything on the head side of the gasket.
>
> - Original Message -
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Friday, November 10, 2006 3:16 am
> Subject: Valve Cover Gaskets:  Cork or Rubber Better?
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
>> My valve cover gaskets have a metal core.  Seem to
>> work the best for me.
>>
>> 2 Nov 2006  Hans Naepflin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:
>> > Time to do my valve cover gaskets (70 350). Mine have really
>> > sprung a leak since I started using Shell Rotella to try and stem
>> > oil consumption per Milton's advice.May or may not be
>> related.
>> > They are probably 15 years old and are due anyway.
>> >
>> >   So which are the best ones?  Cork or rubber?  Felpro or other?
>> >
>> >   I'm guessing my local Pep Boys sdoesn't stock these anymore so
>> I
>> > thinking of doing mail order.   Which outfit will give me the
>> best
>> > deal on such a small item?   Rock Auto has Felpro's in like 4
>> > flavors al for about 8 or 9 bucksWhich are best?
>> >
>> >   Install dry or with RTV or other???
>> >
>> >   Lots of questions I know.
>> >
>> >   Thanks,  Hans
>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.14.2/528 - Release Date: 11/10/2006 
> 2:31 PM
>
> 

Re: 72 Cutlass starting problems

[Infinite Space Systems, Inc.]

Garth,

The resistance wire conductive material had deteriorated over time and was 
building up internal resistance while energized. At every tune-up, its 
always a good idea to take an Ohm meter and check spark plug wire resistance 
to detect a wire that is building up too much resistance, leading to a 
failure of that type. Anything with a resistance well over 350 Ohms per foot 
of length is suspect.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


- Original Message - 
From: "DeVries, Garth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 9:50 AM
Subject: RE: 72 Cutlass starting problems


I had a weird problem with my 1970 Cutlass Conv.  It would start cold
and run for a little while and then stop and never start again until it
was cold again.  After changing several parts and working on it at dusk
I noticed my coil wire was arcing off the manifold.  Replaced the coil
wire and the problem was fixed.  What was happening was the coil wire
would heat up and sag towards the manifold.  The coil wore would then
arc and interrupt the spark.  Then the engine would stop.  During the
times it would not start I had a lot of fuel in the carb.  It even
caught the fuel on fire from the arcing spark. So I ended up rebuilding
the carb too.



For what it is worth.

Garth DeVries





From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 6:02 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: 72 Cutlass starting problems



Well before it ran just fine, cold morning starts on one turn, and just
a bump of the key to start there after, this was new to me. After
changing those components then I noticed it was shooting gas up thru the
carb like Old Faithful, well the mechanic said it may be a stuck float
and a carb rebuild would be in order.




-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Sent: Thu, 9 Nov 2006 12:05 PM
Subject: Re: 72 Cutlass starting problems

[EMAIL PROTECTED]   wrote:
> I was driving today and the car just died which has never happened >
before, checked the carb is getting gas, then checked the distributor >
which is a HEI, came with the car, changed the ignition module and coil
> pack, car started up after quite a few tries and moving the cap around
> some, then drove it back home,
So at this point the car was running as well as ever? If so then you did
_something_ that made it better.

> then it got worse, had to pull over every > couple of blocks, at the
stop light it ran and died out, on her last leg > when I put it in drive
it died out but after a few tries in park it > would start by this time
the battery went down from all the starts,

How does it act when it is dying? Does it just die or does it act like
it wants more or less gas? Does it smell of raw fuel? Does it re-start
if you pump the gas pedal? Does dropping a thimble full of full down the
carb throat cause it to start if even for a moment? Does it back fire?

> a co-worker informed me that the timing may have moved
With all due respect to your co-worker that is just dumb to suggest
unless he knows something that we do not. I could say that maybe the
crankshaft snapped in two or maybe the distributor shaft broke but at
this time you should be looking at more likely problems.

Have you pulled a plug to see if it is dry or wet and if it sparks when
the engine is cranked? Since playing with the distributor seemed to fix
it last time are you absolutely sure you are getting power to the HEI? A
cracked wire would give you no end of grief. Can you get it running long
enough to put a timing light on her?

Good luck.
-- 

Cliff "start at the most likely and work towards the most unfortunate"
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html



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 . Most comprehensive set of
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.14.2/528 - Release Date: 11/10/2006 
2:31 PM

Re: Spark Plugs

[Infinite Space Systems, Inc.]

Look for the equivalent in Autolite. I think, but won't swear to it, but:

Autolite 75 = AC 45S
Autolite 74 = AC 44S
Autolite 73 = AC 43S

Any "good" autoparts store should be able to get AC or Autolite.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


- Original Message - 
From: "Doug Cuthill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 8:04 AM
Subject: Re: Spark Plugs


>> I didn't see it. The plugs are the same. Use either an AC 44S or a 43S, 
>> depending on your type of driving. 44S for normal street driving and 43S 
>> for continuous high speed racing. Stay away from any resistor plug.
>
>> Milton Schick
>
>
> Where is a source for the AC 44S plug. I have tried Dealers and Auto parts 
> stores here and have had no luck getting tthem
>
> Doug
>
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.14.2/528 - Release Date: 11/10/2006 
> 2:31 PM
>
> 

Re: Valve Cover Gaskets: Cork or Rubber Better?

[bammons]

Re: RTV, the last time this was discussed I took away that the gasket
should be only tacked to the valve cover with "gorilla snot" (only to
hold the gasket in place, not  necessarily to create a seal).

Then the clamping force of applying the bolts is what actually makes the
seal, without benefit of RTV.

You don't want to put anything on the head side of the gasket.

- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Friday, November 10, 2006 3:16 am
Subject: Valve Cover Gaskets:  Cork or Rubber Better?
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

> My valve cover gaskets have a metal core.  Seem to 
> work the best for me.  
> 
> 2 Nov 2006  Hans Naepflin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:
> > Time to do my valve cover gaskets (70 350). Mine have really 
> > sprung a leak since I started using Shell Rotella to try and stem 
> > oil consumption per Milton's advice.May or may not be 
> related.  
> > They are probably 15 years old and are due anyway.
> >
> >   So which are the best ones?  Cork or rubber?  Felpro or other?
> >
> >   I'm guessing my local Pep Boys sdoesn't stock these anymore so 
> I 
> > thinking of doing mail order.   Which outfit will give me the 
> best 
> > deal on such a small item?   Rock Auto has Felpro's in like 4 
> > flavors al for about 8 or 9 bucksWhich are best?   
> >
> >   Install dry or with RTV or other???
> >
> >   Lots of questions I know.
> >
> >   Thanks,  Hans
> 

RE: 72 Cutlass starting problems

[DeVries, Garth]

I had a weird problem with my 1970 Cutlass
Conv.  It would start cold and run for a little while and then stop and
never start again until it was cold again.  After changing several parts
and working on it at dusk I noticed my coil wire was arcing off the manifold. 
Replaced the coil wire and the problem was fixed.  What was happening was
the coil wire would heat up and sag towards the manifold.  The coil wore
would then arc and interrupt the spark.  Then the engine would stop. 
During the times it would not start I had a lot of fuel in the carb.  It
even caught the fuel on fire from the arcing spark. So I ended up rebuilding
the carb too.  

 

For what it is worth.

Garth DeVries

 









From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006
6:02 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: 72 Cutlass starting
problems



 



Well before it ran just fine, cold morning starts on one turn, and
just a bump of the key to start there after, this was new to me. After changing
those components then I noticed it was shooting gas up thru the carb
like Old Faithful, well the mechanic said it may be a stuck float and a carb
rebuild would be in order. 





 



 
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Sent: Thu, 9 Nov 2006 12:05 PM
Subject: Re: 72 Cutlass starting problems



[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 
> I was driving today and the car just died which has never happened >
before, checked the carb is getting gas, then checked the distributor >
which is a HEI, came with the car, changed the ignition module and coil >
pack, car started up after quite a few tries and moving the cap around >
some, then drove it back home,  
So at this point the car was running as well as ever? If so then you did
_something_ that made it better. 
 
> then it got worse, had to pull over every > couple of blocks, at the
stop light it ran and died out, on her last leg > when I put it in drive it
died out but after a few tries in park it > would start by this time the
battery went down from all the starts, 
 
How does it act when it is dying? Does it just die or does it act like it wants
more or less gas? Does it smell of raw fuel? Does it re-start if you pump the
gas pedal? Does dropping a thimble full of full down the carb throat cause it
to start if even for a moment? Does it back fire? 
 
> a co-worker informed me that the timing may have moved  
With all due respect to your co-worker that is just dumb to suggest unless he
knows something that we do not. I could say that maybe the crankshaft snapped
in two or maybe the distributor shaft broke but at this time you should be
looking at more likely problems. 
 
Have you pulled a plug to see if it is dry or wet and if it sparks when the
engine is cranked? Since playing with the distributor seemed to fix it last
time are you absolutely sure you are getting power to the HEI? A cracked wire
would give you no end of grief. Can you get it running long enough to put a
timing light on her? 
 
Good luck. 
-- 
 
Cliff "start at the most likely and work towards the most
unfortunate" 
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html 







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trunk floor pans for 1964 Cutlass

[Doug Ahern]

I need to put trunk pans in my 64 Cutlass.  I've been shopping
and I've found that retailers either sell a 'taiwan' kit or
a 'made in USA' kit.  the price of the taiwan kit  it about $260
or so with tax or shipping,, and the US kit is about $400-450.

anyone comment on the quality differences?anyone have
first hand experience with either kit?

my car is a driver, but I care about doing it right..

Doug

More on Zinc, Cam Wear, etc.

[robert . demuth]

I recently received the following through a friend of mine who works at
Castrol North America corporate (my wife also works there).  I've been told
that they are entertaining introducing a new oil targeted specifically for
the low zinc / cam wear problem, but the tech folks are trying to persuade
the marketing people that there is actually a need in the marketplace.  The
product could be available by the end of the year.  So here's a chance ...
write in via the Castrol North America website that you're interested in a
product like this coming to market, and you could help actually make it so.

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=82915731&contentId=6006895

Do me a favor, though, and don't mention this note ... I don't want to get
my buddy in trouble for sharing info on the off chance it's frowned upon.
Also, IMO it would be good if they just started getting some apparently
random inquiries re: this issue / need.

That said, there's some good info below regarding additive levels ... read
up and enjoy!

Bob DeMuth.
'69 Cutlass S
'72 88 conv.


>>>

.

To date, we have had two consumer inquiries related to our products
where a performance camshaft failure has been blamed on the oil. The
first complaint was blamed on Syntec 5W-50. Used oil as well as the
parts were examined; the failure was indicative of incorrect
cam/valve-train installation. The second complaint is Keith Ansell, who
has been building performance engines for over 30 years and is a stong
proponent of Castrol products to his customers. Keith advised that he
has been using HD 30 for about the first 500 miles after break-in and
then switches to Syntec 5W-50 where the cam is determined to have failed
after an additional 400 miles. I spoke with Keith briefly on Wednesday
and will again today. I believe that he has correctly installed the cams
and has set up the valve-train correctly. He has been using a moly based
pre-lube, and still has had several failures.

HD 30 has relatively high level of Zinc and also has a treat of
Molybdenum. I would not expect cam issues with this product unless valve
spring pressures are so high that a higher viscosity grade is needed.
Syntec 5W-50 has lower Zinc level than HD 30 and slightly lower Moly
level and is more typical of a current GF-4 product.

Assuming that an API SG oil was fully backwards compatible with OEM
muscle cars and mild to moderate high performance after-market engine
work, and, if a "typical" SG PCO oil is assumed to have a Zinc level of
0.10 to 0.12 weight percent; then, the following Castrol products have a
Zinc level that is HIGHER than 0.12 weight percent:

* GTX 20W-50 (SL,SM) to the top list (highest Zinc level, also has a Moly
treat)
* Castrol GTX Diesel 15W-40 (CI4,CH4,CG4,CF4,CF,SL)
* Castrol GTX High Mileage 20W-50 (SL,SM)
* Castrol HD 30 (SL,SM)
* Castrol HD 40 (SL,SM)
* Castrol Syntec Blend Truck 15W-40
(CI4,CH4,CG4,CF4,CF,SL)(Semi-synthetic)
* Castrol Tection Extra 15W-40 (CI4Plus, CI4,CH4,CG4,CF4,SL)
* Castrol Hypuron S 15W-40 (CI4Plus,CH4,CG4,SL)(Semi-synthetic)

Note that HD 30, HD 40, and GTX High Mileage also have a Molybdenum
treat which offers friction modification on top of the protective Zinc
film.

The following Castrol products have Zinc levels that are lower than the
above products but are within the "typical" SG Zinc level defined above:
* Castrol Syntec 5W-40 (SL,CF)(Synthetic)
* Castrol GO! 10W-40 Motorcycle Oil (SG)
* Castrol GO! 20W-50 Motorcycle Oil (SG)
* Castrol Grand Prix 4-Stroke Motorcycle Oil 10W-40 (SG)
* Castrol Grand Prix 4-Stroke Motorcycle Oil 20W-50 (SG)
* Castrol TWS Motorsport 10W-60 (SJ)(Synthetic)
* BMW Long Life 5W-30 (SL,CF)(Synthetic)
* Bombardier 0W-40 (SL)(Synthetic)
* Bombardier 5W-40 Synthetic 4-Stroke (SG)
* Bombardier 10W-40 (SL)

Note that BMW Long Life 5W-30 and Bombardier 10W-40 also have a
Molybdenum treat which offers friction modification on top of the
protective Zinc film.

The following Castrol product has a Zinc level that is lower than the
above products but is higher than the Zinc level of a current "typical"
GF-4 engine oil:
* Castrol Syntec 20W-50 (SL,SM,CF)

Note that Castrol Syntec 20W-50 has a Molybdenum treat which offers
friction modification on top of the protective Zinc film.

So, for these type of inquiries related to flat tappet cams in OLDER
performance engines typically known as MUSCLE CARS (NOT modern
performance vehicles), at this time I would recommend the Castrol
products indicated above, starting with the top group with the highest
Zinc level and moving to lower level Zinc option groups until the
consumer is satisfied with the product recommendation.

<

Re: Spark Plugs

[Doug Cuthill]

I didn't see it. The plugs are the same. Use either an AC 44S or a 43S, 
depending on your type of driving. 44S for normal street driving and 43S 
for continuous high speed racing. Stay away from any resistor plug.



Milton Schick



Where is a source for the AC 44S plug. I have tried Dealers and Auto parts 
stores here and have had no luck getting tthem


Doug 

Re: thoughts on fuel economy

[Duane Parks]

Back in the late 70's my mom worked for Westinghouse in Oak Ridge, TN,
on the Clinch River Breeder Reactor Project.  Too bad, because as I
remember it was a prototype, and would have been a fundamental
achievement that should have led to more reactors of its type around
the nation.

Apparently Congress, in its infinite wisdom, voted to close the
project before it was finished.

Duane
72 Cutlass Convertible

On 11/9/06, Infinite Space Systems, Inc. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Bruce,

> 6 Nov 06  "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:
>> Their electrical power generation from the output
>> of their nuclear reactors is
>> much more efficient than the power we get.


Overall, about a 50% improvement, including fuel production in the more
"progressive" countries' fast-breeder reactors. It's an entire system
improvement, which we don't have.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: Cindy in GA responds

[steven pignataro]

The interesting thing about these ebay types:  if they
just ignored the emails you probably would have gone
away!



 

Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
http://new.mail.yahoo.com

Re: Cindy in GA responds

[Bob]

That is a big IF the south WOULD have won..we would have it made



- Original Message - 
From: "Christopher Witt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 9:29 PM
Subject: Cindy in GA responds



and I quote:

HOW MANY CARS DO YOU WORK ON IN A DAY ALL MODELS INCLUDED OF COURSE?? 
1 OR NONE ??? LEAVE IT TO A YANKEE TO KNOW IT ALL AND KEEP ON ABOUT 
SOMETHING.  JUST REMEMBER THIS IF THE SOUTH WOULD HAVE WON WE WOULD 
HAVE HAD IT MADE...

=
So, it's a Yankee thing?

that makes the Southern thing uhm... what?
Deception? Iggernance?
Maybe it's because I am Black! [well, honorary Black]

---
Chris Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_
Use your PC to make calls at very low rates 
https://voiceoam.pcs.v2s.live.com/partnerredirect.aspx

RE: Contact Form - Crate Engine Depot

[77w30]

Because the 350 olds has not been used for more than 10 yrs.

Ron

 



rodney fama OCA #033098
1969 cutlass s
1969 442 north carolinia car
1969 442  cali
car. assembly required stay away from www.calicars.cc what a hassle.
1972 cutlass convertable
1976 phx y-76 arizona
regional car. assy. required
1977 cutlass supreme  (3)
1986 honda shadow vt 1100c  cruiser
1987 cutlass supreme
1989 chevy k-2500 4*4 pick up
1991 yamaha warrior atv
1994 chevy  caprice 9c-1 police pkg
732-986-6388 cell
732-254-9500 wk 2 pm best time to call week days
web site. shows disc brake conversion using 79 trans am rear disc on my 77
cutlass,and my 77 restoration project, along with other toys

http://home.comcast.net/~77w30442/wsb/html/view.cgi-contact.html-.html

http://home.comcast.net/~77w30442/wsb/html/view.cgi-photos.html-MerchantID-221197-Publish-t-makestatic-true-skip-45.html

you may have to copy and paste the address to web browser.














From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006
7:37 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Fwd: Contact Form - Crate
Engine Depot



 



 How can GM just drop everything Olds related but still keep
everything else?





 



 
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thu, 9 Nov 2006 5:14 AM
Subject: RE: Contact Form - Crate Engine Depot







Hello,





 





Thank you for your email.





 





Sorry but the Oldsmobile 350 is no longer
available from GM.





 





Wish we could help.





 





Thanks 





 





 





-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006
1:14 AM
To: Parts Dept
Subject: Contact Form - Crate
Engine Depot





 




 
  
  
  Name: 
  
  
  
  
  Gregory Mcclendon
  
  
 
 
  
  
  City: 
  
  
  
  
  St Louis
  
  
 
 
  
  
  State: 
  
  
  
  
  Missouri
  
  
 
 
  
  
  Zip: 
  
  
  
  
  63135
  
  
 
 
  
  
  Contact_By: 
  
  
  
  
  Phone
  
  
 
 
  
  
  email: 
  
  
  
  
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
  
 
 
  
  
  Phone: 
  
  
  
   
  
 
 
  
  
  How_Found: 
  
  
  
  
  Internet
  
  
 
 
  
  
  Make: 
  
  
  
  
  Olds
  
  
 
 
  
  
  Model: 
  
  
  
  
  Cutlass Supreme
  
  
 
 
  
  
  Year: 
  
  
  
  
  1972
  
  
 
 
  
  
  VIN: 
  
  
  
  
   
  
  
 
 
  
  
  Comments: 
  
  
  
  
  Is there a engine that would be a replacement for my
  72 Cutlass Supreme which has 350 4bbl, vin n/a which is in the shop.
  
  
 




 











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Valve Cover Gaskets: Cork or Rubber Better?

[bcroe]

My valve cover gaskets have a metal core.  Seem to 
work the best for me.  

2 Nov 2006  Hans Naepflin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:
> Time to do my valve cover gaskets (70 350). Mine have really 
> sprung a leak since I started using Shell Rotella to try and stem 
> oil consumption per Milton's advice.May or may not be related.  
> They are probably 15 years old and are due anyway.
>
>   So which are the best ones?  Cork or rubber?  Felpro or other?
>
>   I'm guessing my local Pep Boys sdoesn't stock these anymore so I 
> thinking of doing mail order.   Which outfit will give me the best 
> deal on such a small item?   Rock Auto has Felpro's in like 4 
> flavors al for about 8 or 9 bucksWhich are best?   
>
>   Install dry or with RTV or other???
>
>   Lots of questions I know.
>
>   Thanks,  Hans