Re: my favorite March PUG entries

2002-03-19 Thread JGeoffreyStevens

>" Old Chestnut " by  Geoffrey Stevens - a beautiful composition

Amita,

Thank you for your kind words.  The shot was taken on  a pleasant autumn day
 last year - I was having a good afternoon's shooting and taking my time 
(using my tripod).
I must use my tripod, I must use my tripod,...

Geoff
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Re: Flash Delima-Please Help

2002-03-19 Thread Bruce Dayton

Steve,

The first question to ask yourself is what did you change?  If they
use to turn out fine and now they are overexposing, did you change
films, labs or lenses.  Or, have you just started to notice that they
have always been overexposed.

With your 283, you can always lie to it and tell it that you have
faster film than you are really using.  That way it will kill the
flash a bit quicker and drop the exposure a bit.


Bruce Dayton



Tuesday, March 19, 2002, 10:52:54 PM, you wrote:

SP> I currently own a Super Program & have a Pentax AF200
SP> flash & a Vivitar 283 flash.  I primarily use the 283
SP> for "Professional" jobs, with a Lumiquest bounce card.
SP>  It seems that lately the pictures are a bit
SP> overexposed.  I'm giving some thought to buying a
SP> Pentax AF280T.  Can anyone tell me what to expect. 
SP> Will the 280 provide a noticeable difference?  Can I
SP> expect better results due to TTL?  I have not been
SP> real happy with the 200, but maybe it's just too
SP> under-powered?

SP> Your help is greatly appreciated.  I definately need
SP> help learning about flash photogragphy.  Any reference
SP> out there on the web?

SP> Thanks in advance for any help!
SP> Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage
SP> http://sports.yahoo.com/
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Re: Limited Lens Pool

2002-03-19 Thread David A. Mann

Paul Jones wrote:

> Okay my guess is a 22mm/2.6 limited lense.
> 
> And i'll throw a role of Sensia into the pot.

 You picked the same focal length as me... I hope my aperture is 
closer ;)

Cheers,


- Dave

http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/ (out of date)
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Re: Black limited lens coating - does it wear?

2002-03-19 Thread David A. Mann

Pål Audun Jensen wrote:

> On the other hand, I
> guess the black Limited will show attractive brassing with heavy use
> since the outer body of the Limited lenses are made of brass. :-)

 Feel free to attack your lens with a wire brush to get rid of the 
coating, for that "golden" look.

 Who was it that did this to an old Spotmatic?  I'd like to see that 
again.  I could just about do it to my 6x7 :)

Cheers,


- Dave

http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/ (out of date)
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Re: 67 300mm f/4 vs A* 300/4 and SMCP 135/2.5

2002-03-19 Thread David A. Mann

Aaron Reynolds wrote:

> The guy who is shooting my wedding actually did shoot a wedding from
> the wedding party, with one of those little Ricoh AF rangefinders,
> whatever they're called.  Some of it was quite excellent and intimate.

 I could just imagine you giving your wedding photographer a detailed 
critique of every shot.

 I hope you've hired someone with a Pentax 6x7 .

Cheers,


- Dave

http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/ (out of date)
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Flash Delima-Please Help

2002-03-19 Thread Steve Pearson

I currently own a Super Program & have a Pentax AF200
flash & a Vivitar 283 flash.  I primarily use the 283
for "Professional" jobs, with a Lumiquest bounce card.
 It seems that lately the pictures are a bit
overexposed.  I'm giving some thought to buying a
Pentax AF280T.  Can anyone tell me what to expect. 
Will the 280 provide a noticeable difference?  Can I
expect better results due to TTL?  I have not been
real happy with the 200, but maybe it's just too
under-powered?

Your help is greatly appreciated.  I definately need
help learning about flash photogragphy.  Any reference
out there on the web?

Thanks in advance for any help!
Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage
http://sports.yahoo.com/
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Web Site Update

2002-03-19 Thread T Rittenhouse

My website is in its final working form, barring it failing the HMTL
checker. No major changes, but a lot of polishing. Once it is checked the
only further immediate changes will be content.

For those of you who have not been following the development of my site, It
is my first attempt at creating a website. I have learned a lot, and have
lots more to learn, but I am proud of this first attempt. Check it out, the
link is in my sig. Comments welcome, please use the E-MAIL ME link on the
site unless you want to tell eveybody what you think.

Thanks for the moral support many of you have given.

Ciao,
Graywolf
http://pages.prodigy.net/graywolfphoto

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Re: FA*24/2

2002-03-19 Thread Paul Jones

Don't worry it wasnt anything scarey :)


- Original Message - 
From: "William Robb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 4:28 PM
Subject: Re: FA*24/2


> Bob, if you need a place to sleep, I have a spare
> couch...
> 
> William Robb
> 
> - Original Message -
> From: Paul Jones
> Subject: Re: FA*24/2
> 
> 
> > I have replied to this email off list.
> >
> >
> > - Original Message -
> > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 3:22 PM
> > Subject: Re: FA*24/2
> >
> >
> > > Paul,
> > >
> > > I remember discussions we have had on the PDML about whether
> a lens lost
> > 20%
> > > or 40% in value the day it moved off of the retailer's
> shelf.  I don't
> > think
> > > anybody is trying to irritate you, but aren't you being kind
> of silly?
> > Would
> > > you let one friend take advantage of another friend right in
> front of you,
> > or
> > > would you speak up?  You may have paid more for the lens and
> not been
> > aware
> > > of the B&H price, but I would be very surprised if you sold
> it for your
> > > asking price.
> > >
> > > Regards,  Bob S.
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How is Russian glass?

2002-03-19 Thread Debra Wilborn

There seems to be a whole other world out there with
regards to lenses.  Everytime I look at Ebay, someone
is selling a Russian-made lens.  Can somebody offer up
opinions on the quality of these lenses?  While I'm on
it, is there an online resource for reviews and specs
on non-Pentax glass made for K-mount?

Thank y'all all,
Deb in TX
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Re: make them stop,was what are we photographing this weeken

2002-03-19 Thread Debra Wilborn

They all came because your reputation as a top-notch
equine photographer has circled the Great White North,
reviving the sport.  Everyone wants a piece of the
David Brooks legacy.
:)
Deb

--- David Brooks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> When i was first asked to be the photo guy for 
> the winter Hunter/Jumper season,north of 
> Toronto,it started off nice and slow,20 
> entries,home by noonish.Last month the had 175 
> entries for the weekend,endless lines of 
> horses.This month they have 225 + entries.My 
> noon is gone,i'm living on coffee and double 
> aa's and did not hit the list until 10 pm 
> tonight.Thank god this is the series final this 
> weekend.Were did they find all these equines.
> At this rate i might just pay for this D1 
> before the decade is out.
> 
> 
> Dave(actually loving it,just sharing)Brooks
> http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pentax User
> Stouffville Ontario Canada
> 
> Sign up today for your Free E-mail at:
> http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail 
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Re[2]: After several more rounds with FedEx

2002-03-19 Thread Bruce Dayton

Joe,

Very good to know.  Thanks for that tidbit!  Makes me wonder if it is
worth all the selling/buying hassle and losing a bunch of money.
Probably better to spend it on 67 stuff for now.


Bruce Dayton



Tuesday, March 19, 2002, 6:53:39 PM, you wrote:

>> I would be very interested in your impressions of the lens optically.
>> I have both an FA 28/2.8 and FA 35/2.0.  I am not so impressed with
>> the 28 and reasonably happy with the 35.  If the 31 Limited was
>> superb, perhaps I would consider at some point replacing both of those
>> lenses with the Limited.  I already have the 43 Limited and find the
>> 35 and 43 fairly close in FOV.  The 31 would be a better match for it.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Bruce Dayton
>> 
JT> Bruce, you might want to know that the FA 31 is actually a 32 (31.81)
JT> while the FA 35 is actually a 34 (33.77) According to f-calc, the
JT> difference in diagonal AOV is 3.1 degrees.

JT> Joe
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Re: Snorkelling Camera

2002-03-19 Thread Debra Wilborn

> > there are underwater housings that you can use
> with your Super Program.

There are also heavy duty ziploc-style bags designed
for using a video camera underwater.  This might be an
option if you can't find a housing.  Check dive shops
online and in the real world.
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Re: FA*24/2

2002-03-19 Thread William Robb

Bob, if you need a place to sleep, I have a spare
couch...

William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Paul Jones
Subject: Re: FA*24/2


> I have replied to this email off list.
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 3:22 PM
> Subject: Re: FA*24/2
>
>
> > Paul,
> >
> > I remember discussions we have had on the PDML about whether
a lens lost
> 20%
> > or 40% in value the day it moved off of the retailer's
shelf.  I don't
> think
> > anybody is trying to irritate you, but aren't you being kind
of silly?
> Would
> > you let one friend take advantage of another friend right in
front of you,
> or
> > would you speak up?  You may have paid more for the lens and
not been
> aware
> > of the B&H price, but I would be very surprised if you sold
it for your
> > asking price.
> >
> > Regards,  Bob S.
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Re: How Do You Set the Exposure for this.........

2002-03-19 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Denny B
Subject: How Do You Set the Exposure for this.

Since the skin tone is the most important to capture, you are on
the right path by metering her face. I think get the child into
diffuse light rather than direct light is better.
One piece of infomation missing, you failed to mention what
colour the child is, other than she meters close to 18%.
I disagree with metering for the shadows, but that is just me. I
meter for the highlights, and let the shadows fall where they
will. It doesn't matter, I have used both methods, and either
way is correct.
Umm, if the child is pale caucasian, my recomendation is to
meter the cheek that is away from the sun, and set the exposure
1 - 2 stops greater than the meter reading.
If the child has a darker skin tone, such as Asian you can
probably use your meter reading unadjusted.
If the child has a dark skin colour, such as Native African,
perhaps close down 1 stop from your cheek meter reading.
If you are using a camera with ttl metering, just trust your
meter. It should give a correct exposure with the situation you
describe.

William Robb


> I have a six year old little girl sitting on a stool and being
> illuminated by daylight coming through a large balcony plain
glass window, she
> is facing the
> window directly, sunny day lots of light.
> The little girl has on a red dress and a black coat all done
up ready
> to go out with her parents. I have been asked to take a
picture of this little
> girl
> dressed as stated and have metered her face flesh tone with a
Pentax V
> Spotmeter and it
> measures18% grayscale or V (using zone system) have checked
her face flesh
> tone
> using a Kodak 18% graycard and they almost measure identical.
> I will be using color negative film and as you know for color
negative
> film they say expose for the shadows. (Bracketing aside) to
make an accurate
> exposure
> evaluation, is it correct for me to use the child's flesh tone
and set the
> exposure
> for her flesh tone, or should I take a reading of her black
coat (Zone III two
> stops less
> then her flesh tone) and set the exposure for the coat..
> I will just be taking a picture of the upper part of the
child.
>
> Is there a definite rule to measure this exposure or is it
arbitrary
> with many different scenarios when it comes to taking this
picture.
> I am not looking for any special effects and the child
> will be evenly lighted by daylight only.
>
> Your answer much appreciated
>
> thanks in advance
> Denny B
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Re: FA*24/2

2002-03-19 Thread Paul Jones

I have replied to this email off list.


- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 3:22 PM
Subject: Re: FA*24/2


> Paul,
>
> I remember discussions we have had on the PDML about whether a lens lost
20%
> or 40% in value the day it moved off of the retailer's shelf.  I don't
think
> anybody is trying to irritate you, but aren't you being kind of silly?
Would
> you let one friend take advantage of another friend right in front of you,
or
> would you speak up?  You may have paid more for the lens and not been
aware
> of the B&H price, but I would be very surprised if you sold it for your
> asking price.
>
> Regards,  Bob S.
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> << Thanks for pointing that out Alan.
>
>  Was the purpose, to warn some one they may be able to get it cheaper? or
to
>  irritate me?
>
>  If someone is outside of the US, it may work out significantly cheaper to
>  buy mine, as B&Hs International Postage is pretty expensive and usually
>  people get charged import duties or tax when package come from B&H or
>  Adorama.
>
>  Regards,
>  Paul
>  - Original Message -
>  From: "Alan Chan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>  To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>  Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 1:50 PM
>  Subject: Re: FA*24/2
>
>
>  > >I want $350us for the lense.
>  >
>  > No offense, but B&H is selling it at USD349.95. >>
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Re: FA*24/2

2002-03-19 Thread Paul Jones

Thanks for pointing that out Alan.

Was the purpose, to warn some one they may be able to get it cheaper? or to
irritate me?

If someone is outside of the US, it may work out significantly cheaper to
buy mine, as B&Hs International Postage is pretty expensive and usually
people get charged import duties or tax when package come from B&H or
Adorama.

Regards,
Paul
- Original Message -
From: "Alan Chan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: FA*24/2


> >I want $350us for the lense.
>
> No offense, but B&H is selling it at USD349.95.
>
> regards,
> Alan Chan
>
>
> _
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RE: Advice on photographing scientific meeting

2002-03-19 Thread Butch Black

Hi Andy;

I would mount the 28-70 on your main body and the 100 on the other. I would
shoot Fuji NPH. I would put your flash on auto, not TTL using the setting
giving you the widest aperture and set your shutter speed to 1/60 (1/30 if
you are really daring). Mount your flash off the hot shoe on a side bracket
if possible, though if the room is lit enough to make dragging the shutter
helpful you should have little problem with red eye. Reminder that you can
use the SB-28 on the other body in manual or Auto, but not TTL. You may want
to put the 24 in your pocket. Open up 1/2-1 stop if your subjects are up
against a white wall. The 100 will be good for people at the podium and
tight face shots in the conference room. Keep extra batteries for the flash
handy. Most important. Remember to have fun while doing this, you'll get
better pictures that way.

BUTCH

"Each man had only one genuine vocation - to find the way to himself"
Hermann Hesse (Demian)
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Re: Black limited lens coating - does it wear?

2002-03-19 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Good anodizing can be flat or more reflective.  I have numerous pots and
pans that are anodized aluminum, and believe me, they take a far greater
beating than a lens will take. The Calphalon and Magnalite pots are more
than 20 years old, and some of them are used, and abused, every day, yet
their coating is still solid.  Good anodizing will last a lifetime.

Alan Chan wrote:
> 
> >BTW  The chrome Limited are anodized by a silver, metallic substance
> >whereas the black looked like just painted to me; they didn't have any
> >metallic shine. I really don't know if the blacks are less durable but they
> >at least didn't look as durable as the chrome Limiteds. Again, I really
> >don't know this - it's pure speculation.
> >On the other hand, I guess the black Limited will show attractive brassing
> >with heavy use since the outer body of the Limited lenses are made of
> >brass. :-)
> 
> Wonder if Silver MZ-S received the same treatment as silver Limited lenses.
> 
> regards,
> Alan Chan
> 
> _
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
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-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/darkroom-rentals/index.html
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Re: A little help from the group.

2002-03-19 Thread Stan Halpin

Cesar - I have personal experience with only the 40/2.8 and the 300/4. But
based on what I've read and a quick scan of some comments in my web site, I
think that the 200/2.5 is the best lens of the bunch. Said to be very good
optically but heavy.  I also think that they are all overpriced (except
maybe the 200/2.5). I sold my 300/4 for much less than $484, I wouldn't go
as low as $125 for my 40/2.8, but I would be embarassed to ask for as much
as $299. $150-175 would probably be about right, even at that maybe a bit
high. 

You said A-200/2.5. Don't think so. There is a K 200/2.5 and an A* 200/2.8.
The later in excellent condition is on KEH now for $850. I guess I would
evaluate the K 200/2.5 depending on if you want a K lens and how beat up it
is.

Stan

> From: "Matamoros, Cesar A." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 19:40:43 -0500
> To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: A little help from the group.
> 
> I have made it to Tucson.  What does it say about me that I have hit
> about five camera stores already?  I have limited Internet access at the
> moment and as such cannot look through the archives and other sources.
> Therefore I am hoping to hear from the collective group.
> 
> I have located an A-200/2.5 in bargain condition for $380.  How is
> this lens?  Is the price reasonable?
> 
> They also have a 300/4 for $484.  I already have an A* so I am not
> interested, but am wondering how their pricing is.  The lens is in VG
> condition.
> 
> I handled a 40/2.8 for the first time.  Talk about small.  It is in
> Exc- condition and they are asking $299!!!
> 
> Finally, they have an A 35-70/3.5-4.5 for $96.  It is in VG
> condition.  What are the thoughts on this lens?  I have shied away from
> zooms, but I recall this lens being discussed on this list and I have to
> admit that I did not really pay attention.
> 
> This place has a few screwmount lenses, but mainly in the 50-55mm
> range.  I will be going back to see what they else they have after looking
> at my inventory to refresh my memory.
> 
> I located two places that repairs cameras.  Another has quite a few
> bodies from a screwmount to a couple of black body M series, one being an
> ME.  I have enough bodies and am not even going to ask to handle these.
> 
> 
> Thanks a million for all your help,
> 
> César
> Panama City, Florida
> in Tucson, Arizona
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Re: Black limited lens coating - does it wear?

2002-03-19 Thread Shel Belinkoff

I don't believe the MX is real chrome.

Alan Chan wrote:
> 
> >In the old days, chrome camera bodies were more resistant to wear than
> >black ones. Perhaps the same is the case for the Limited lenses?
> 
> Could be just me, but I hate those shiny scratches on my chrome MX. They are
> impossible to avoid.  :(

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: Black limited lens coating - does it wear?

2002-03-19 Thread Alan Chan

>BTW  The chrome Limited are anodized by a silver, metallic substance
>whereas the black looked like just painted to me; they didn't have any
>metallic shine. I really don't know if the blacks are less durable but they
>at least didn't look as durable as the chrome Limiteds. Again, I really
>don't know this - it's pure speculation.
>On the other hand, I guess the black Limited will show attractive brassing
>with heavy use since the outer body of the Limited lenses are made of
>brass. :-)

Wonder if Silver MZ-S received the same treatment as silver Limited lenses.

regards,
Alan Chan


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Re: Black limited lens coating - does it wear?

2002-03-19 Thread Shel Belinkoff

IIRC, the lens barrel of the 77mm Ltd is aluminum, which indicates that
the black finish is probably anodized.  Good anodizing can be a lot more
durable than chrome.

I wonder if the silver finish on the lens is really chrome, as Pal
seemed to indicate.  The finish on my 43mm doesn't look like chrome.  I
don't believe that aluminum can be chrome plated.

Alan Chan wrote:
> 
> >I have the chance to buy one at a good price, but dont know whether I
> >should be buying silver or black.  I dont care about the look being
> >consistent with the body, the silver looks fine to me, but I dont want
> >one which will show chips or whatever in the black coating.  Does the
> >coating wear at all?
> 
> I GUESS it would be like regular manual focus lenses.

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Re: FA*24/2

2002-03-19 Thread Alan Chan

>I want $350us for the lense.

No offense, but B&H is selling it at USD349.95.

regards,
Alan Chan


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Re: After several more rounds with FedEx

2002-03-19 Thread Joseph Tainter

> I would be very interested in your impressions of the lens optically.
> I have both an FA 28/2.8 and FA 35/2.0.  I am not so impressed with
> the 28 and reasonably happy with the 35.  If the 31 Limited was
> superb, perhaps I would consider at some point replacing both of those
> lenses with the Limited.  I already have the 43 Limited and find the
> 35 and 43 fairly close in FOV.  The 31 would be a better match for it.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bruce Dayton
> 
Bruce, you might want to know that the FA 31 is actually a 32 (31.81)
while the FA 35 is actually a 34 (33.77) According to f-calc, the
difference in diagonal AOV is 3.1 degrees.

Joe
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Re: eyepiece blind (HAMA)

2002-03-19 Thread Alan Chan

>A few days ago I received from B&H a HAMA eyepiece blind (about $18, 
>special order). It's a clever device that mounts on your hot shoe and flips 
>down to cover your eyepiece during timed autoexposures or autoexposed 
>tripod shots where light entering the eyepiece can fool your exposure 
>meter. A photo of it can be found on the B&H site.
>
>It's clever, well-designed, and easy to use on my Super Program. Too bad I 
>had to remove the Super Program's rubber Kalt eyecup and shoe-mounted level 
>to use the HAMA blind. I'll have to see if I get enough use out of the HAMA 
>to justfify removing these accessories.

I actually have one in my drawer for more than 10 years. Unfortunately, the 
joints were poorly designed and it's rather loose.  :(

regards,
Alan Chan


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Re: Black limited lens coating - does it wear?

2002-03-19 Thread Alan Chan

>In the old days, chrome camera bodies were more resistant to wear than
>black ones. Perhaps the same is the case for the Limited lenses?

Could be just me, but I hate those shiny scratches on my chrome MX. They are 
impossible to avoid.  :(

regards,
Alan Chan


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Re: Black limited lens coating - does it wear?

2002-03-19 Thread Alan Chan

>I have the chance to buy one at a good price, but dont know whether I
>should be buying silver or black.  I dont care about the look being
>consistent with the body, the silver looks fine to me, but I dont want
>one which will show chips or whatever in the black coating.  Does the
>coating wear at all?

I GUESS it would be like regular manual focus lenses.

regards,
Alan Chan


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Re: my favorite March PUG entries

2002-03-19 Thread Mark Cassino

At 11:04 AM 3/17/02 -0500, you wrote:
>I usually do this a lot earlier in the month, but I've been a bit tied
>up this month. Anyway, here are my favorites, in no particular order.
>
>
>" South Haven Dawn " by  Mark Cassino - The colors are great and I
>love lighthouses. :)

thanks! I'm lucky to live in a place with 6 lighthouses all within a two 
hours drive (from my home - not each other).
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Re: March 2002 PUG Comments

2002-03-19 Thread Mark Cassino

Thanks, Ed!

At 05:33 PM 3/19/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Here is what I've found interesting this month...
>
>Keep up the great work!
>
>Ed K.
>
>
>"South Haven Dawn" - Mark Cassino
>Very nice shot - love the colors and the 'misty' water.
>
>"Tree on Thames, Lechlade, 2002" - Cotty
>Another winner this month!  Great bow of the river banks and the 
>reflections along the river.
>
>"La Puna" - Facit
>Excellent.  I like the cloud breaking up the 'darkness' of the picture.
>
>"Nosey Bird" - Dan Matyola
>Nice colors and lines.
>
>"Bruce" - Philip Stone
>Looking distinguished.
>
>"Californian Poppy" - Leon Altoff
>Good shot - I like the DOF for this shot - keeping the water droplets in 
>focus as well as the whole flower - but losing focus very close after.  Nice!
>
>"Annami" - Matti Eteläperä
>Very nice shot - I like the back-lighting.
>
>"Hesitating Glue" - Gianfranco Irlanda
>Great capture.  The colors and bubbles going through the glue keeps me 
>looking for more in the picture.
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Re: Advice on photographing scientific meeting

2002-03-19 Thread Mark Cassino

After I left the school district I came back to do some photo shoots of 
kids and teachers - a similar sort of thing, semi-candids.  These were 
theme based magnet schools and the shots were intended to illustrate the 
instructional theme and activities that went on at the buildings.

I found that i worked almost exclusively at longer focal lengths, and I 
used the FA 80-320 primarily on the first shoot, when I returned to cover 3 
more schools a couple months later I had the Sigma 70-200, and it got a lot 
of use. AF really helps and it's easier to get candids from far away with a 
telephoto.  I used a Stroboframe flip bracket and put the AF500 FTZ on it. 
When I could, I put a mini-soft box on the flash, but even with ISO 400 
film I found myself needing more light.  I used the FA28 - 70 for group shots.

I think you might want to use the 28-70 with flash and some sort of 
diffuser - like even a bounce card.

BTW - one thing to watch for is mixed lighting sources. I did a lot of 
shooting under florescent lights, and while the flash was the main light 
source you'd get the florescent color shift is shadows etc.  The filter 
used to correct florescent to daylight would have rendered everything way 
too pink in the areas covered by the flash. I used an 81B filter for some 
shots, figuring it would help warm the lighting a bit but not look over the 
top with the flash, but generally corrected the colors when scanning.

Have fun!

- MCC



At 10:46 PM 3/19/02 +, you wrote:
>Hi,
>
>My workplace (a plant science research centre) is organizing a scientific
>meeting in April. The Institute is being shut down in a year's time and our
>pro photographer has already left. As a keen amateur (ie. I spend far too
>much money on it) I've been asked if I will act as official photographer at
>the poster session. This is an informal gathering where some of the
>delegates present their work on posters while the others cluster round to
>discuss the work. My task is to wander round the delegates taking
>semi-candid shots of the delegates in animated discussion. The room in which
>the poster session will be held has a high ceiling and lots of windows, and
>is fairly cramped. The posters tend to be printed on large white sheets of
>paper pinned to display boards. I also have to take a group photo of the
>organizers and speakers. The photos will be put on display at the meeting,
>and will subsequently be used in internal reports.
>
>I have Pentax pZ1-p and MZ-5n bodies, 50mm/f1.7 F, 28-70/f4 AL, 40mm
>pancake, Cosina 19-35/f3.5, Tamron 100mm/f2.8 macro (MF), Sigma 24mm/f2.8
>(MF), plus AF500FTZ flash. I also have a Nikon Coolpix 950 and an SB28
>flash, should I want to use digital.
>
>Most of my photography is landscapes and macro shots of flowers and I have
>little experience of photographing people, other than holiday snaps of the
>family. I considered using a fast film and using available light, but I
>can't rely on the light (England in April!). I'm wary of red-eye from the
>flashgun, and the high ceiling means that bounce flash may not be possible.
>The white posters may also reflect badly and screw up the shots. I'd like
>the photos to be semi-candid, but I think there may be little room for
>manoever and I may have to use wide-angle rather than short telephoto.
>
>Any advice would be welcome - for instance, which lens would be best? How
>best to set up the flash to balance ambient and flash lighting?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Andy
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Re: Film ISO Speed Choices?

2002-03-19 Thread Mark Cassino

I shoot all sorts of film :-)

I burn through more E100S than anything else - it's got good color 
reproduction an is saturated and yet reasonably accurate. Next would be 
E100VS - exaggerated colors that, IMO, can be quite inaccurate.  Velvia 
rated at ISO 40 would come next - the colors are very vivid, very fine 
grain and sharp. But the slow speed can be hindrance and color accuracy is 
not that great. The Kodak films seem to push the red end of the palette a 
little, Velvia  pushes the whole palette but can really push the greens.

For general walking around outdoors film, I've been using Kodak's ISO 200 
echtachrome.  If properly exposed the grain is OK, and the extra stop is 
nice.  For speeds greater than 200 I switch to print film - though Provia F 
is OK (aside from being very expensive and not having the color punch of 
slower slide films.)

In terms of print films - Fuji's Reala is a pleasing film with a muted, but 
nice color palette. I also shoot a lot of Kodak Gold and Kodak Max 
400.  Royal Gold and Supra a nice options as well.

Personally, I prefer slides because they are easier to scan (at least with 
my scanner) and are easier to organize and store. But  there are lots of 
situations where the lighting is not good for slides because of the more 
limited latitude.  And as a final note - I've been doing a lot of work with 
my photographs lately and have been surprised at how many images on 
negative film I like, specifically because of the effect of the grain 
etc.  So aside from technical considerations, there's the creative aspects 
as well.

Cheers -

MCC

At 07:27 AM 3/19/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi Folks,
>
>I'm new to the list, and a relative neophyte to photography - just upgraded
>from my ten year-old K1000 to a ZX-5n, and am looking to expand my
>photographic knowledge.
>
>I've traditionally used GC 135-36 ISO 400 color print film (Kodak MAX) for
>its "versatility" (as the box proclaims it "works for all conditions";) or
>the TMAX 100 B&W, and am curious about what film/ISO choices (both color and
>B&W) people use 'as a habit' - allowing for exceptions/special circumstances
>(which I am also interested in reading about!...).
>
>Namaste,
>Dave
>-

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Re: March PUG Review from Cotty

2002-03-19 Thread Mark Cassino

Thanks, Cotty! Maybe I'll start packing spare light bulbs and fill them in 
the old fashioned way, pre-exposure

- MCC

At 04:59 PM 3/17/02 +, you wrote:
>Just looking at the thumbnails, I was pretty much blown away by them. So
>much vibrancy and form! So without further ado, let's get down to
>business. These are the ones I liked, no disrespect to the others,
>they're all excellent.



>South Haven Dawn
>Mark Cassino
>Beautiful colour, interesting shapes of the walkway, and that great
>cloudy effect of long exposures with water. Super shot. I wouldn't have
>told them about the light bulb ;-)

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Re: To Darkroom or Not To Darkroom.... - question

2002-03-19 Thread Christopher McNutt

I've been processing all my B&W film with a sink, changing bag, thermometer,
a couple of beakers, and a 8oz tank. The only problem I ran into was finding
a dust free area to dry my negs, so I ended up walling off a section of a
closet with clear plastic. Other than chemicals and containers the only
other thing that cost any real money was a good timer.
For printing I go to gallery that rents a darkroom in thier basement by the
hour (they provide all equipment and chemistry) or scan my negatives on my
Prime Film 1800u,
Photoshop them and print them on a Cannon s300 printer. The scanner has been
a very handy item because
I can get a rough idea of what I want to print on "real" paper before
spending money on darkroom rental. I don't
really have the space for an enlarger and all the other stuff
for printing so finding a place to use already set is worth paying money
for. Oh, and the scanner cost me around $200.00and only does 35mm but the
scan quality is decent enough.

Chris

- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 12:43 PM
Subject: To Darkroom or Not To Darkroom - question


> After reading some responses in the ISO thread, I've been toying with the
idea of developing my own film at home.
>
> Of course the issue here is, I don't have a darkroom to do it in.  I've
got a full bathroom and a half bath, both with fans, but the space is
limited (full bath - 2m x 3m  half bath - 3m x 1.5m).
>
> The big question is - Can I do it ?  I know I need a dark bag, canisters,
timer, rolls, etc. (I used to develop my own back in high school, but that
was some 20 years ago)  but is it feasible without having the "darkroom" ?
>
> Any help is greatly appreciated.
>
> Cheers,
> Dave
>
> 
> mail2web - Check your email from the web at
> http://mail2web.com/ .
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Re: posts not coming through

2002-03-19 Thread David Brooks

Frank.I was last week but ok this week

Dave

 Begin Original Message 

From: frank theriault 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 18:05:51 -0500
To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" 
Subject: posts not coming through


I've had a couple of posts in the last two days 
that haven't appeared of
the list (both have been replies).

Anyone else having this problem, or is it just 
me?

regards,
frank

--
"The optimist thinks this is the best of all 
possible worlds. The
pessimist fears it is true." -J. Robert
Oppenheimer
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 End Original Message 




Pentax User
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Re: A little help from the group.

2002-03-19 Thread T Rittenhouse

Prices seem high. Ebay prices are down a lot from a couple of months ago.

For instance, I have a 40/2.8 you can have for $125 it is in at least E-
condition w. perfect glass. They were selling for $199 a year ago, but not
$299. Of course, if you want to pay $299 I wouldn't argue.

I suspect the others are price simularly.

Ciao,
Graywolf
http://pages.prodigy.net/graywolfphoto



- Original Message -
From: Matamoros, Cesar A. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 7:40 PM
Subject: A little help from the group.


> I have made it to Tucson.  What does it say about me that I have hit
> about five camera stores already?  I have limited Internet access at the
> moment and as such cannot look through the archives and other sources.
> Therefore I am hoping to hear from the collective group.
>
> I have located an A-200/2.5 in bargain condition for $380.  How is
> this lens?  Is the price reasonable?
>
> They also have a 300/4 for $484.  I already have an A* so I am not
> interested, but am wondering how their pricing is.  The lens is in VG
> condition.
>
> I handled a 40/2.8 for the first time.  Talk about small.  It is in
> Exc- condition and they are asking $299!!!
>
> Finally, they have an A 35-70/3.5-4.5 for $96.  It is in VG
> condition.  What are the thoughts on this lens?  I have shied away from
> zooms, but I recall this lens being discussed on this list and I have to
> admit that I did not really pay attention.
>
> This place has a few screwmount lenses, but mainly in the 50-55mm
> range.  I will be going back to see what they else they have after looking
> at my inventory to refresh my memory.
>
> I located two places that repairs cameras.  Another has quite a few
> bodies from a screwmount to a couple of black body M series, one being an
> ME.  I have enough bodies and am not even going to ask to handle these.
>
>
> Thanks a million for all your help,
>
> César
> Panama City, Florida
> in Tucson, Arizona
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RE: I like Aaron's film...

2002-03-19 Thread David Chang-Sang

Ya ya..

Just like that guy in the old Rodney Dangerfield movie "Easy Money":
Sneaks into the home of his bride to be via an open bathroom window when
it's pitch dark at night.
His buddy, waiting for him at the base of the home asks "You doing ok ?"
The guy says "Ya, I know this house like the back of my hand"
Suddenly the guy falls and there's a loud crash and "splosh" sound.
His buddy asks "What happened ?"
The guy says "I got the back of my hand stuck in the toilet"

So while I may know Toronto like the back of my hand.. I sometimes can slip
up and make a mistake :)
Next time, I promise, keep me informed :)

Cheers,
Dave

P.S.  Aaron, apparently you're going to give me ALL I need to have to be
able to develop my own film at home !! :)

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Aaron Reynolds
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 7:59 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: I like Aaron's film...


On Tuesday, March 19, 2002, at 05:35  PM, frank theriault wrote:

> Hi, Dave,
>
> You missed our Toronto get-together a coupla weeks ago.

...because he went into the wrong restaurant...

-Aaron
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Re: Contax Digital SLR

2002-03-19 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Tuesday, March 19, 2002, at 07:25  PM, Bruce Rubenstein wrote:

> There's a difference?

Yes, if you're famous you get to wear those glittery pants.

-Aaron
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Musings re 645 and AF360FGZ

2002-03-19 Thread Bill Owens

Much to my chagrin, I've discovered that the AF360FGZ does not support TTL
flash metering with the 645 body.  However, they work together nicely with
the 360 in autoflash mode.  Whatever aperture you set the 360 on, the 645
body reads that info and sets itself for the same aperture.  It's also nice
to have the 645 setting on the 360.

Bill  KG4LOV
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Re[2]: Velvia (was: Film ISO Speed Choices?)

2002-03-19 Thread Bruce Dayton

Christian,

There are three uses I have seen for Velvia.  Two are fine and one is
too much.  When the colors are muted due to lighting or doing an
unusual artsy thing, Velvia is fine.  For normal shooting it is too
much.  As I looked through several PUG galleries I thought it
interesting that I could pick out Velvia just from the thumbnails.
Once in awhile I missed - usually to Agfa Ultra or Provia, but
generally I could spot it easily.  In this month's PUG Mark Cassino
used Velvia in an unusual manner that is a bit surreal anyway, so the
strong colors work alright.  Ken Waller's landscape is well composed
and I like the subject - however, the color is over the top and spoils
the picture for me.  The golden hills are too golden and the sky is
too strong.

I will try to give you more examples as I run into them.


Bruce Dayton



Tuesday, March 19, 2002, 4:14:38 PM, you wrote:

CS> I don't use Velvia at the track because it is soo slow! ;-)

CS> I'll be using Provia for that.

CS> The Canis flower is actually a very vivid orange.  I think (with my funky
CS> eyes) that Velvia gives very natural colors.  Again, this is for the
CS> subjects that I normally shoot and why I wanted to see some examples of
CS> "bad" Velvia.  Then again, maybe I'm weird.

CS> Christian

CS> - Original Message -
CS> From: "Doug Franklin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
CS> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
CS> Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 6:52 PM
CS> Subject: Re: Velvia (was: Film ISO Speed Choices?)


>> Hi Christian,
>>
>> On Tue, 19 Mar 2002 13:31:53 -0500, Christian Skofteland wrote:
>>
>> > [...] is this over saturated or gaudy?
>> >
>> > http://photography.skofteland.net/flowers/canis.htm
>> > http://photography.skofteland.net/insects/insect08.htm
>>
>> I don't know what the subjects look like in reality, but the flower
>> definitely looks "overly vivid" to me.  I think you would not want to
>> use Velvia at the race track, where the colors on the cars are already
>> pretty vibrant.  I'm even doubtful about using Portra 400 VC instead of
>> Portra 400 NC, but I think I'm going to shoot a roll or two to check it
>> out.
>>
>> TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
>> -
>> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
>> go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
>> visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
CS> -
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FS: K-mount, M42 & M37 stuff

2002-03-19 Thread Chris Brogden

I'm giving the list first crack at these before I go the eBay route.  If
you're interested in anything, please email me off-list.  Thanks!

SMC Pentax 24mm f3.5 ("K" series)
Pentax Rear Converter-A 2X-S (2x teleconverter, for lenses 300mm or
shorter)
Super Program body w/ Digital Data M back (prints date and time from
1980-2019)
Super-Takumar 35mm f2 (rarer version w/ 67mm filter thread)
Super-Takumar 105mm f2.8 w/ hood
Super-Multi-Coated Takumar-Zoom 85-210mm f4.5 w/ hood
Pentax K w/ Auto-Takumar 55mm f1.8
Pentax K w/ Auto-Takumar 55mm f1.8
Pentax SV w/ Auto-Takumar 55mm f1.8
Pentax H3 body
Pentax Clip-on Meter (rectangular version) w/ case
Pentax metal circular lens hood for standard screwmount lenses (50/1.4,
55/1.8, 55/2)
Asahiflex w/ Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 50mm f3.5 and Asahiflex UV filter
Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 135mm f3.5 w/ rear cap, filter, and hood


First come, first served.

chris
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FS: K-mount, M42 & M37 stuff

2002-03-19 Thread Chris Brogden

Forgot one:

Super-Takumar 300mm f4 w/ case (has tripod mount)

chris
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A little help from the group.

2002-03-19 Thread Matamoros, Cesar A.

I have made it to Tucson.  What does it say about me that I have hit
about five camera stores already?  I have limited Internet access at the
moment and as such cannot look through the archives and other sources.
Therefore I am hoping to hear from the collective group.

I have located an A-200/2.5 in bargain condition for $380.  How is
this lens?  Is the price reasonable?

They also have a 300/4 for $484.  I already have an A* so I am not
interested, but am wondering how their pricing is.  The lens is in VG
condition.

I handled a 40/2.8 for the first time.  Talk about small.  It is in
Exc- condition and they are asking $299!!!

Finally, they have an A 35-70/3.5-4.5 for $96.  It is in VG
condition.  What are the thoughts on this lens?  I have shied away from
zooms, but I recall this lens being discussed on this list and I have to
admit that I did not really pay attention.

This place has a few screwmount lenses, but mainly in the 50-55mm
range.  I will be going back to see what they else they have after looking
at my inventory to refresh my memory.

I located two places that repairs cameras.  Another has quite a few
bodies from a screwmount to a couple of black body M series, one being an
ME.  I have enough bodies and am not even going to ask to handle these.


Thanks a million for all your help,

César
Panama City, Florida
in Tucson, Arizona
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Re: I like Aaron's film...

2002-03-19 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Tuesday, March 19, 2002, at 05:35  PM, frank theriault wrote:

> Hi, Dave,
>
> You missed our Toronto get-together a coupla weeks ago.

...because he went into the wrong restaurant...

-Aaron
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Re: Fwd: Contax Digital SLR

2002-03-19 Thread Bruce Rubenstein

There's a difference?

--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Bruce,
> Don't confuse famous and notorious!  
> Regards,  Bob S.
Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage
http://sports.yahoo.com/
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Re: Velvia (was: Film ISO Speed Choices?)

2002-03-19 Thread Christian Skofteland

I don't use Velvia at the track because it is soo slow! ;-)

I'll be using Provia for that.

The Canis flower is actually a very vivid orange.  I think (with my funky
eyes) that Velvia gives very natural colors.  Again, this is for the
subjects that I normally shoot and why I wanted to see some examples of
"bad" Velvia.  Then again, maybe I'm weird.

Christian

- Original Message -
From: "Doug Franklin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 6:52 PM
Subject: Re: Velvia (was: Film ISO Speed Choices?)


> Hi Christian,
>
> On Tue, 19 Mar 2002 13:31:53 -0500, Christian Skofteland wrote:
>
> > [...] is this over saturated or gaudy?
> >
> > http://photography.skofteland.net/flowers/canis.htm
> > http://photography.skofteland.net/insects/insect08.htm
>
> I don't know what the subjects look like in reality, but the flower
> definitely looks "overly vivid" to me.  I think you would not want to
> use Velvia at the race track, where the colors on the cars are already
> pretty vibrant.  I'm even doubtful about using Portra 400 VC instead of
> Portra 400 NC, but I think I'm going to shoot a roll or two to check it
> out.
>
> TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
> -
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Re: eyepiece blind (HAMA)

2002-03-19 Thread Christian Skofteland

That's because the LX doesn't need one because of the OTF metering, etc.  

Christian

- Original Message - 
From: "Doug Franklin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Never seen one for my K-1000 or LX, though.
> 
> TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
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RE: Advice on photographing scientific meeting

2002-03-19 Thread John Coyle

Hi Andy:
Having just been asked to do the same sort of thing, perhaps my experience may 
help.  My location was a room about 10 metres by 25 metres, with windows along 
both sides and a high vaulted ceiling, so bounce flash was out of the question. 
 One difference was that the audience was seated facing the speakers, and I 
could move down only one side of the room, and across the back about two-thirds 
of the way down.
I used the MZ-5 and MZ-S in tandem, with a 35-135 and 18-35 and AF330FTZ flash 
for the most part.  For shots of the speaker alone, the zoom at the long end 
was normally adequate, but for a few close-ups I switched to a 200mm prime. 
 For the group shots, taken from right at the front and about 1 metre from the 
first row of chairs, I used the wide-angle zoom, and got everybody in frame 
(just!).
Film was Kodak PJ400, which was fast enough to give me reasonable hand-holding 
ability, coupled with the flash.  I did not attempt to use available light, as 
I thought it too directional and, inside in the late afternoon, even Australian 
light is inadequate.
For your candid shots, I would tend to use the 19-35 zoom - you can fill the 
frame with quite large groups from close-up, or pick out smaller parts from the 
same distance.  If you are nervous about being 'in-their-faces', maybe the 
28-70 will give you a little more working space.
I set the lens to aperture priority, and didn't worry about the ambient light - 
it was taken care of by both cameras automatically, and I feel sure yours will 
do the same.  Exposures were in all cases spot-on, and everyone who's seen the 
shots thinks I should now be the group's official photographer!

HTH

John Coyle
Brisbane, Australia


On Wednesday, March 20, 2002 9:47 AM, Andy Phillips 
[SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] wrote:
> Hi,
>
> My workplace (a plant science research centre) is organizing a scientific
> meeting in April. The Institute is being shut down in a year's time and our
> pro photographer has already left. As a keen amateur (ie. I spend far too
> much money on it) I've been asked if I will act as official photographer at
> the poster session. This is an informal gathering where some of the
> delegates present their work on posters while the others cluster round to
> discuss the work. My task is to wander round the delegates taking
> semi-candid shots of the delegates in animated discussion. The room in which
> the poster session will be held has a high ceiling and lots of windows, and
> is fairly cramped. The posters tend to be printed on large white sheets of
> paper pinned to display boards. I also have to take a group photo of the
> organizers and speakers. The photos will be put on display at the meeting,
> and will subsequently be used in internal reports.
>
> I have Pentax pZ1-p and MZ-5n bodies, 50mm/f1.7 F, 28-70/f4 AL, 40mm
> pancake, Cosina 19-35/f3.5, Tamron 100mm/f2.8 macro (MF), Sigma 24mm/f2.8
> (MF), plus AF500FTZ flash. I also have a Nikon Coolpix 950 and an SB28
> flash, should I want to use digital.
>
> Most of my photography is landscapes and macro shots of flowers and I have
> little experience of photographing people, other than holiday snaps of the
> family. I considered using a fast film and using available light, but I
> can't rely on the light (England in April!). I'm wary of red-eye from the
> flashgun, and the high ceiling means that bounce flash may not be possible.
> The white posters may also reflect badly and screw up the shots. I'd like
> the photos to be semi-candid, but I think there may be little room for
> manoever and I may have to use wide-angle rather than short telephoto.
>
> Any advice would be welcome - for instance, which lens would be best? How
> best to set up the flash to balance ambient and flash lighting?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Andy
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RE: OT: Digital Darkroom Questions

2002-03-19 Thread Kenneth Waller

Thought I'd share a resource for digital darkroom questions that I've used for
the last few weeks and have found to be very helpful with just about any
digital photo question from cameras to printer media.  It's an email list that
is put out almost daily in response to email questions submitted. It's done by
a very knowledgeable Tim Grey. He works for George Lepp. Contents of the email
are copyright Lepp & associates.
To subscribe to the list send an e-mail to [EMAIL PROTECTED] with the
subject: SUBSCRIBE DDQ
Once subscribed to the list questions are submitted to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Ken Waller
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Re: eyepiece blind (HAMA)

2002-03-19 Thread Doug Franklin

On Tue, 19 Mar 2002 15:55:55 -0500, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> A few days ago I received from B&H a HAMA eyepiece blind (about $18, special order).

My ZX-5 came with a little slide-on cap to blind the eyepiece.  I'd
guess all of the ZX/MZ series do, but I certainly don't know that for
sure.  Never seen one for my K-1000 or LX, though.

TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
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Re: Fwd: Contax Digital SLR

2002-03-19 Thread William Robb

- Original Message - 
From: Bruce Rubenstein 
Subject: Re: Fwd: Contax Digital SLR


I'm all warm and tingly.

That is also the early warning signs of a stroke.
HAR!!
WW
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Re: pentax-discuss-digest V1 #2357

2002-03-19 Thread ERNReed

In a message dated 19-Mar-02 1:38:02 PM Central Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> On Tue, 19 Mar 2002 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > A 'mundane' question if I may, for those who might know - how does one
> > disable the 'Databack' function on the ZX-5n? I can find nothing in the
> > manual about doing so - and can anyone recommend a good 'Guide' text for 
> this
> > camera (apart from the 'manual' resource)?
> 
> Should be in the manual.. basically, there's the three little buttons..
> one of them you can push and it'll cycle through the formats. One of the
> formats is just a series of dashes. That one will NOT print anything to
> the film.
> 

What the person above said.
Also, the date back isn't discussed in the camera manual but there is a 
separate manual for it. When I bought my ZX-5n QD and discovered no info 
about the back in the manual, I emailed Pentax customer service, told them I 
have this new camera but the camera manual doesn't discuss the back,  is 
there something else? ... and they mailed me (free) a copy of the dateback 
instructions.


ERNR

My photographs hang on the virtual walls at
http://members.aol.com/ernreed
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Re: Velvia (was: Film ISO Speed Choices?)

2002-03-19 Thread Doug Franklin

Hi Christian,

On Tue, 19 Mar 2002 13:31:53 -0500, Christian Skofteland wrote:

> [...] is this over saturated or gaudy?
> 
> http://photography.skofteland.net/flowers/canis.htm
> http://photography.skofteland.net/insects/insect08.htm

I don't know what the subjects look like in reality, but the flower
definitely looks "overly vivid" to me.  I think you would not want to
use Velvia at the race track, where the colors on the cars are already
pretty vibrant.  I'm even doubtful about using Portra 400 VC instead of
Portra 400 NC, but I think I'm going to shoot a roll or two to check it
out.

TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
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Re: Film ISO Speed Choices?

2002-03-19 Thread Paul Stenquist

I assume you mean the Portra talk? I usually try films at different speeds,
because sometimes the rated ISO doesn't result in a negative that scans well or
prints to my satisfaction. It's just a matter of pleasing one's individual
taste. Rating Portra 400VC at 320 overexposes it by less than half a stop. It
just seems to give it a little bit better shadow detail and a little more
contrast. Portra 160 at 100, on the other hand is more than a half stop
overexposed, almost a full stop. But I think it is severely lacking in contrast
at 160, at least the way the labs I use process it. What's more, all my meters
are calibrated to be dead on. They don't have the built in overexposure that
some late model cameras have. Kodak's ratings may be adjusted to allow for
contemporary meters. In any case, I go with what works for me.
Paul

Cameron Hood wrote:

> I would like a repeat of 'the Provia talk'. Why shoot at 320 and 100 instead
> of the rated speeds, and, more importantly, why would Kodak lie?
>
> C.
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Re: Racing Film

2002-03-19 Thread Doug Franklin

On Tue, 19 Mar 2002 10:32:41 -0500, Stephen Moore wrote:

> What emulsions do you motorsports shooters plan to use
> this season? Are you choosing something different from 
> what you shot last season? If so, why?

I'm considering Portra 400 VC for this season but I'm not sure.

TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
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Re: test

2002-03-19 Thread frank theriault

seems to be working now...

frank theriault wrote:

> I posted 3 or 4 earlier that weren't coming through.  Just testing...
>
> -frank
>
> --
> "The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The
> pessimist fears it is true." -J. Robert
> Oppenheimer
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pessimist fears it is true." -J. Robert
Oppenheimer
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Re: 67 300mm f/4 vs A* 300/4 and SMCP 135/2.5

2002-03-19 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Tuesday, March 19, 2002, at 03:20  PM, William Robb wrote:

> I was best man at a wedding a few years back. I had one of those
> little Olympus things (Stylus?) in my pocket for the ceremony. I
> got some great shots too.

The guy who is shooting my wedding actually did shoot a wedding from the 
wedding party, with one of those little Ricoh AF rangefinders, whatever 
they're called.  Some of it was quite excellent and intimate.

I would want that kind of work supplemented with other stuff, too, tho'.

-Aaron
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Re: To Darkroom or Not To Darkroom.... - question

2002-03-19 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Hi David,

Of course it's feasible.  Once the film is in the developing tank, you
can do the rest of the process in day light, and just about anywhere.  A
few of us use the kitchen, as do I, even though I've a darkroom.  No
need for a special timer, either,  I just use the one on the microwave
oven.  

If you follow Ilford's technique, you don't even need running water to
wash the film.

"[EMAIL PROTECTED]" wrote:
> 
> I've been toying with the idea of developing my own film at home.
> 
> Of course the issue here is, I don't have a darkroom to do it in. 
> 
> The big question is - Can I do it ?  
> is it feasible without having the "darkroom" ?

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/darkroom-rentals/index.html
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Re: OT: What Do You See?

2002-03-19 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Here, perhaps, is the ultimate example of what you're describing.  While
working on the rental darkroom list, someone sent me a few links to
darkrooms in the UK.  I went to one site and, upon logging in, received
a message that, in essence, said "Get lost.  Our site doesn't support
your browser.  Go upgrade your browser and then come back."  Yeah, I'll
hurry back ... now what was that URL again . BTW, I'm using Netscape
4.7x ... one would think a web sit would consider writing code that's
compatible with such a popular browser.

T Rittenhouse wrote:

> What many web designer forget, is that what they are trying to do is get
> people to look at their web sites. The people you want to look at your web
> site are not other web designers who are going to say that is neat, but real
> people who are looking for the information you have, or the product you are
> selling. If they can not find that quickly and easily they will go someplace
> else if they can. Sometimes you have a captive audience like some one
> looking for a driver for a device your client used to sell and that is the
> only place they can find it. But, even then, if they have a hassle, they
> will remember and when it comes time to upgrade that device, think, "I don't
> want another X brand, it was a real hassle getting a diver for the last
> one".
> 
> So, even when you have a captive audience you can still in the long run cost
> your client a customer because you thought all that stuff was neat. And if
> your client thinks that it is neat and your can't dissuade him? I guess that
> depends on your personal outlook on life and making a living.

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/darkroom-rentals/index.html
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Re: To Darkroom or Not To Darkroom.... - question

2002-03-19 Thread Brendan

Aaron can give you the tank, reels, chemicals and easy
to follow instructions on the developing. To print
contacts you'll need 4 trays, a few more chemicals and
a plate of thick glass which he can also provide. For
a dark room I used my bathroom, and 4 garbage bags,
the thick black industrial ones. I cut a card board
box to fit the window perfectly and stapled 2 bags
over it with some over lap all around the frame. The
other 2 bags are duct tapped together and fit over the
door frame, I just tape it at the top and roll it up
when not in use. I checked with a small piece of paper
and I left it out of the bag for 15 min with only the
safe light on and negs on top. I then developed it and
it was blank, ie the room is safe. My bath room is 3m
x2m to. I am using 2 folding tables for the trays so
everything folds up and packs away. You won't even
know I have a darkroom in there ( untill you see the
garbage bags folder over the door ).  

 w--- "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> After reading some responses in the ISO thread, I've
> been toying with the idea of developing my own film
> at home.
> 
> Of course the issue here is, I don't have a darkroom
> to do it in.  I've got a full bathroom and a half
> bath, both with fans, but the space is limited (full
> bath - 2m x 3m  half bath - 3m x 1.5m).  
> 
> The big question is - Can I do it ?  I know I need a
> dark bag, canisters, timer, rolls, etc. (I used to
> develop my own back in high school, but that was
> some 20 years ago)  but is it feasible without
> having the "darkroom" ?
> 
> Any help is greatly appreciated.
> 
> Cheers,
> Dave
> 
>

> mail2web - Check your email from the web at
> http://mail2web.com/ .
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Re: To Darkroom or Not To Darkroom.... - question

2002-03-19 Thread Christian Skofteland

This winter I just started developing my own film.  I DO NOT make prints 
however so a "darkroom" is not neccessary.  I process the B&W film at night 
in one of two half bathrooms in my home (no changing bag required).  Once the 
film is on the spool and in the tank there is no need to work in the dark.

Also, see Shel's website for a darkroom in limited space.  I think what he 
has done is incredible and gives me great ideas for when I do start making 
prints.

Christian

On Tuesday 19 March 2002 15:43, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> After reading some responses in the ISO thread, I've been toying with the
> idea of developing my own film at home.
>
> Of course the issue here is, I don't have a darkroom to do it in.  I've got
> a full bathroom and a half bath, both with fans, but the space is limited
> (full bath - 2m x 3m  half bath - 3m x 1.5m).
>
> The big question is - Can I do it ?  I know I need a dark bag, canisters,
> timer, rolls, etc. (I used to develop my own back in high school, but that
> was some 20 years ago)  but is it feasible without having the "darkroom" ?
>
> Any help is greatly appreciated.
>
> Cheers,
> Dave
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OT: For Mark Erickson

2002-03-19 Thread Lindamood, Mark

Mark: I did receive your first mail.   Your server might be eating my
replies.  Mark
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eyepiece blind (HAMA)

2002-03-19 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

A few days ago I received from B&H a HAMA eyepiece blind (about $18, special order). 
It's a clever device that mounts on your hot shoe and flips down to cover your 
eyepiece during timed autoexposures or autoexposed tripod shots where light entering 
the eyepiece can fool your exposure meter. A photo of it can be found on the B&H site.

It's clever, well-designed, and easy to use on my Super Program. Too bad I had to 
remove the Super Program's rubber Kalt eyecup and shoe-mounted level to use the HAMA 
blind. I'll have to see if I get enough use out of the HAMA to justfify removing these 
accessories.

[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Re: More KX ?s, please help

2002-03-19 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Steve,

I can't vouch for other K bodies. But I can tell you that the KX's focusability is 
enhanced by using the 2X flip-up Pentax multiplier. It's regularly available on EBay 
and elsewhere for $30 to $40. Unfortunately, you can't use it with an eyecup.

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Zooms, parfocal vs. varifocal (was: [none])

2002-03-19 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

This is called a varifocal lens, as opposed to a parfocal. A varifocal require that 
you refocus when you change focal length. It can be a pain to use, but it allows 
greater flexibility in optical design. The Vivitar Series 1 28-105 was such a lens.

Brian Walsh wrote: 
A zoom? Nah--I hope it's a multi-focal length lens akin to the excellent 
Leitz Tri-Elmar (28-35-50) or the new Voightlander ultra-wide/35 in the 
Leica M mount.

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To Darkroom or Not To Darkroom.... - question

2002-03-19 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

After reading some responses in the ISO thread, I've been toying with the idea of 
developing my own film at home.

Of course the issue here is, I don't have a darkroom to do it in.  I've got a full 
bathroom and a half bath, both with fans, but the space is limited (full bath - 2m x 
3m  half bath - 3m x 1.5m).  

The big question is - Can I do it ?  I know I need a dark bag, canisters, timer, 
rolls, etc. (I used to develop my own back in high school, but that was some 20 years 
ago)  but is it feasible without having the "darkroom" ?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Dave


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M 120/2.8

2002-03-19 Thread Bob Walkden

Hi,

there's one of these fairly rare lenses for sale in Kingsley
Photographic in London. I think the price is £145.00. I haven't
checked the lens or inspected it at all - just saw it today in the
shop window. You can get in touch with them via their website if
you're interested: http://www.kingsleyphoto.co.uk/

Cheers,

Bob
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Re: Snorkelling Camera

2002-03-19 Thread Chris Brogden

On Tue, 19 Mar 2002, Allen Murray wrote:

> Chris,
>
> Do you own an A-1? If so how are the above water pictures?
>
> Thanks for the info.

Nope, I don't own the A-1, though I'm considering buying either it or the
WP-1.  I like it because it seems very well-built, has a reasonably large
viewfinder, and its f3.5 lens is fast enough for most of the times I'd use
it.  Olypmus Stylus Epics are great cameras if maximizing quality and
minimizing size are the crucial factors, but for times when maximizing
durability and having a camera you can use in any weather are important,
I'd take the A-1.

chris
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Re: Pentax at the Photo Expo? How about a new lens mount....

2002-03-19 Thread Brendan

Isn't the Crippled KAF on the MZ-30/50/60 almost all
electronic? Look at it's backward compatability
limitations.



--- Pål Audun Jensen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Patrick wrote:
> 
> 
> >Perhaps I don't get it, but what's the big deal
> with an all-electronic lens
> >mount?  What's wrong with an electro-mechanical
> one?  I can see an advantage
> >for macro work, where an electronic mount allows
> full lens automation even
> >when reversed or on the end of a bellows, but how
> many people are into that
> >kind of photography?
> 
> 
> 
> The main advantage of an all-electronic lens mount
> is that it is cheaper to 
> manufacture. The K-mount can be transformed into an
> all-electronic mount if 
> Pentax want to while maintaining backward
> compatibility.  On of the great 
> aspects of the current "half-electronic" lens mount
> is that you can use old 
> and new lenses on old and new bodies. Many Pentax
> users are taking 
> advantage of this. In the future you can use digital
> along with the older 
> equipment. This is a strong plus which I believe
> Pentax will take advantage of.
> 
> 
> Pål
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Re: Disabling databack on ZX-5n

2002-03-19 Thread Brendan

Scroll the menu untill it displays just --- then it's
off no date imprinting.

--- "Peifer, William [OCDUS]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> Dave ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) wrote:
> How does one disable the 'Databack' function on the
> ZX-5n?
> 
> Hi Dave,
> 
> ...and welcome to the list!  One way to disable the
> databack (assuming it's
> just like the databack on my MZ-50) is to simply
> open the camera back and
> remove the disk-shaped CR2025 lithium battery from
> the inside of the "door".
> Another way is to repeatedly press the DATE button
> on the back of the camera
> (no need to open the back for this).  Cycle through
> the various date-imprint
> modes until the LCD display shows a series of
> dashes; that is, "-- -- --".
> When these dashes are displayed, the date-imprint
> function is disabled, and
> no data will be imprinted on your negatives.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Bill Peifer
> Rochester, NY
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> go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions.
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Re: Film ISO Speed Choices?

2002-03-19 Thread Bob Walkden

Hi,

people's choice of film doesn't mean much unless you know what
subjects they're shooting and why they choose their film for it.

My preferred subjects are reportage / travel / street photography.

Over the last couple of years I've been shooting mainly black & white
while here in the UK, and mainly using Agfa Scala. This is a very
versatile black & white slide film. I don't home-process it, but it's
only processed at one lab in the UK and their quality/production
controls seem pretty good. Since it's a slide film it means I can see
a 1st generation image and don't have to rely on my imagination/subjective
judgement to read a negative or a contact sheet. I do occasionally use
Tri-X, but again I don't process my own and I've never really been happy
with the way other people print contact sheets and proof prints (to say
nothing of the cost).

Outside this country I tend to shoot Kodachrome 64 and 200, for some
of the same reasons that I shoot Scala. I also like the fact that
Kodachrome has less tendency to fade than E6 slide films, and that it
has a reasonably neutral colour balance, with good skin tones on all
skin colours that I've shot. K200 can be pushed to ISO 500. On a
recent trip to India I shot slightly more K200 than K64, which was
a bit surprising.

My choice for colour prints is Supra 100 and 400. Again, I like the
relatively neutral colours. It's more versatile than Kodachrome
because of the greater exposure latitude and because it has lower
contrast. On a simple film-only comparison I actually prefer it to
Kodachrome, but its overall cost is much higher than Kodachrome for
me. This is because the price of Kodachrome in the UK includes processing.
With other films the processing is extra. This puts the price/roll up quite
significantly and at 60-70 rolls at a time this makes a difference.

Slide films also have an advantage over print films in the digital
workflow. Again, because you can see the first generation image as a
positive you always know exactly what you've got as a sound basis for
comparison with scans and prints. What's more, you don't have to make
proof sheets or contact sheets, which can be a major time-saving with
a lot of film to process.

As to film speed, you'll see that I shoot 64, 100, 200 and 400. I treat
64 and 100 as being more or less the same. The lower speeds are pretty
good for sunnier climates, but at the start and end of the day, or in
shade, it can be a problem even with fast lenses (f/1.4). 400 is
generally pretty good in the UK most of the year because it's so dark
here, but it can seriously limit the range of shutter speed/aperture
combinations available to you on some older cameras. For instance, the
Leica Ms have a top speed of 1/1,000 and many of their lenses have a
minimum aperture of f/16. This means that on a sunny-16 day you've
only got 2 settings to play with.

---

 Bob  

mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Tuesday, March 19, 2002, 12:27:47 PM, you wrote:

> Hi Folks,

> I'm new to the list, and a relative neophyte to photography - just upgraded 
> from my ten year-old K1000 to a ZX-5n, and am looking to expand my 
> photographic knowledge. 

> I've traditionally used GC 135-36 ISO 400 color print film (Kodak MAX) for 
> its "versatility" (as the box proclaims it "works for all conditions";) or 
> the TMAX 100 B&W, and am curious about what film/ISO choices (both color and 
> B&W) people use 'as a habit' - allowing for exceptions/special circumstances 
> (which I am also interested in reading about!...).

> Namaste,
> Dave
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RE: Film ISO Speed Choices?

2002-03-19 Thread Paris, Leonard

Perhaps because it's not their film. ;-)

Len
---

-Original Message-
From: Cameron Hood [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 1:33 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Film ISO Speed Choices?


I would like a repeat of 'the Provia talk'. Why shoot at 320 and 100 instead
of the rated speeds, and, more importantly, why would Kodak lie?


C.
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Re: Black limited lens coating - does it wear?

2002-03-19 Thread Pål Audun Jensen

BTW  The chrome Limited are anodized by a silver, metallic substance 
whereas the black looked like just painted to me; they didn't have any 
metallic shine. I really don't know if the blacks are less durable but they 
at least didn't look as durable as the chrome Limiteds. Again, I really 
don't know this - it's pure speculation.
On the other hand, I guess the black Limited will show attractive brassing 
with heavy use since the outer body of the Limited lenses are made of 
brass. :-)

Pål
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Re: 67 300mm f/4 vs A* 300/4 and SMCP 135/2.5

2002-03-19 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Oliver Raymond
Subject: Re: 67 300mm f/4 vs A* 300/4 and SMCP 135/2.5


> Aaron - I nearly spasmed when I read this!
>
> I have IDENTICAL instructions. 17 days to go, and I can't see
any way around
> it.. I can't even get away with a Leica (borrowed)... :) I
might just appear
> with a Sinar P2, just to wind her up... on second thoughts,
maybe not!

I was best man at a wedding a few years back. I had one of those
little Olympus things (Stylus?) in my pocket for the ceremony. I
got some great shots too.
>
> Ps- UPS SUCK! Waiting for my Second Day delivery (from KEH) of
the new 67
> 90-180 F5.6 SMC ... it's meant to be here now!!

Remember a few months ago, I had a bad experience with UPS? Well
to make up for it, they rerouted a very nice parcel to me. Now I
like UPS again.
Thanks Oliver.
Nice lens.
William Robb
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Re: Snorkelling Camera

2002-03-19 Thread Allen Murray

Chris,

Do you own an A-1? If so how are the above water pictures?

Thanks for the info.

Allen

- Original Message -
From: "Chris Brogden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2002 10:05 PM
Subject: Re: Snorkelling Camera


> On Mon, 18 Mar 2002, Allen Murray wrote:
>
> > Looking at doing some snorkelling again in June in Bermuda. Last time
> > I took a disposable underwater camera. Does Pentax make an underwater
> > camera? Looking for something inexpensive. Like the Canon Sure Shot
> > A-1.
> >
> > Any other suggestions?
>
> Not really, unless you need to go deeper than 16 feet or so.  I like the
> A-1.  Pentax doesn't make a camera that can be used underwater, though
> there are underwater housings that you can use with your Super Program.
> There are some other underwater ones that go deeper that you can get, like
> the Sealifes, or you could rent one while you're there.
>
> chris
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Re: Black limited lens coating - does it wear?

2002-03-19 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Pål Audun Jensen
Subject: Re: Black limited lens coating - does it wear?


>The chrome finish, though, is incredibly durable and making
> scratches on a chrome Limited lens really take an effort.

Please Pål, tell us you haven't actually tried this!
William Robb
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RE: OT: What Do You See?

2002-03-19 Thread Paris, Leonard

That was AOL version 6.0 - Netscape 6.0 has no such problem.

Len
---

-Original Message-
From: T Rittenhouse [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 12:59 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: OT: What Do You See?


I seem to recall that NS 6.0 did not have the option to send e-mail in plain
text. Plain text is the standard for e-mail. Of course, many people think
you should not worry about tire boring old standards.

Ciao,
Graywolf
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RE: pentax-discuss-digest V1 #2357 (Turning off the date function on ZX-5n)

2002-03-19 Thread Paris, Leonard

The easiest way is to open the back, next time you change film, and remove
the battery that is in the back itself. Another way is to push the mode(?)
button until it displays a line of dashes.

Len
---


Hi Shel/Listers,

Good (core) advice - and thanks to everyone who responded to my question. 
When (in a 'former' life;) I sold specialty audio (the 'low' end of the 
'high' - not 'Hind' - end), I stressed the almost alchemical nature of 
blending separate components to achieve a "Gestalt' result, where the
(sonic) 
result of the pieces exceeded the (discrete) sum of the system 'parts'...I 
understand the same philosophy holds true in photography (and elsewhere).

I have not, as yet, learned how to develop B&W film - however, I look
forward 
to doing so, hopefully soon after my graduate work is complete (in six 
weeks)...

A 'mundane' question if I may, for those who might know - how does one 
disable the 'Databack' function on the ZX-5n? I can find nothing in the 
manual about doing so - and can anyone recommend a good 'Guide' text for
this 
camera (apart from the 'manual' resource)?

Thanks again,
Dave
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Re: OT: What Do You See?

2002-03-19 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Graywolf amplifies some very good points, but says:
> What many web designer forget, is that what they are trying to do is get

Many web designers do forget ... but when this came up on another
mailing list a while back, one with several web designers and
web developers involved, the point was made that sometimes the
web designer does know better, tries to convince the client not
to make things difficult for part of the audience, and gets shouted
down anyhow when the client says, "but I want it to look this way
and I'm paying for it".

The claim from several people at that time (a couple years ago, IIRC)
was that this happens often enough to be a major source of frustration 
among web designers.

Of course, when the site owner and the designer are the same person,
it becomes a lot easier to assign blame.  


Note that Graywolf isn't the only one to automatically blame the
web designers, just the one whose message I happened to be looking
at when I thought of it.  I myself make this same error fairly
often.

-- Glenn
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Re: OT: What Do You See?

2002-03-19 Thread William Robb

- Original Message - 
From: Shel Belinkoff 
Subject: Re: OT: What Do You See?


> http://www.mit.edu/transweb.html

Thanks Shel. I will see how it does on the next Barker.
Bill
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Disabling databack on ZX-5n

2002-03-19 Thread Peifer, William [OCDUS]

Dave ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) wrote:
How does one disable the 'Databack' function on the ZX-5n?

Hi Dave,

...and welcome to the list!  One way to disable the databack (assuming it's
just like the databack on my MZ-50) is to simply open the camera back and
remove the disk-shaped CR2025 lithium battery from the inside of the "door".
Another way is to repeatedly press the DATE button on the back of the camera
(no need to open the back for this).  Cycle through the various date-imprint
modes until the LCD display shows a series of dashes; that is, "-- -- --".
When these dashes are displayed, the date-imprint function is disabled, and
no data will be imprinted on your negatives.

Hope this helps.

Bill Peifer
Rochester, NY
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Re: Pentax at the Photo Expo? How about a new lens mount....

2002-03-19 Thread Pål Audun Jensen

Patrick wrote:


>Perhaps I don't get it, but what's the big deal with an all-electronic lens
>mount?  What's wrong with an electro-mechanical one?  I can see an advantage
>for macro work, where an electronic mount allows full lens automation even
>when reversed or on the end of a bellows, but how many people are into that
>kind of photography?



The main advantage of an all-electronic lens mount is that it is cheaper to 
manufacture. The K-mount can be transformed into an all-electronic mount if 
Pentax want to while maintaining backward compatibility.  On of the great 
aspects of the current "half-electronic" lens mount is that you can use old 
and new lenses on old and new bodies. Many Pentax users are taking 
advantage of this. In the future you can use digital along with the older 
equipment. This is a strong plus which I believe Pentax will take advantage of.


Pål
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[no subject]

2002-03-19 Thread Pål Audun Jensen

Brian wrote:


>When Pål suggested that the next Limited lens would "simplify things" for
>those who are wrestling with choosing between multiple lens options


To clarify: It was not meant in a general sense. It was as a reply to the 
certain lens selection the original poster wanted to keep.

Pål
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Re: 67 300mm f/4 vs A* 300/4 and SMCP 135/2.5

2002-03-19 Thread Oliver Raymond

Aaron - I nearly spasmed when I read this!

I have IDENTICAL instructions. 17 days to go, and I can't see any way around
it.. I can't even get away with a Leica (borrowed)... :) I might just appear
with a Sinar P2, just to wind her up... on second thoughts, maybe not!

Ps- UPS SUCK! Waiting for my Second Day delivery (from KEH) of the new 67
90-180 F5.6 SMC ... it's meant to be here now!!

Oliver
- Original Message -
From: "Aaron Reynolds" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 7:58 AM
Subject: Re: 67 300mm f/4 vs A* 300/4 and SMCP 135/2.5


> On Tuesday, March 19, 2002, at 01:14  AM, David A. Mann wrote:
>
> >  Have both!  You need that lens to photograph the guests, right? ;)
>
> I was informed early in the wedding planning process that I was
> absolutely not to bring any cameras to the ceremony.
>
> It's like she can read my mind or something.
>
> -Aaron
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Re: OT: What Do You See?

2002-03-19 Thread T Rittenhouse

Once again, your final point is telling, Bill.

What many web designer forget, is that what they are trying to do is get
people to look at their web sites. The people you want to look at your web
site are not other web designers who are going to say that is neat, but real
people who are looking for the information you have, or the product you are
selling. If they can not find that quickly and easily they will go someplace
else if they can. Sometimes you have a captive audience like some one
looking for a driver for a device your client used to sell and that is the
only place they can find it. But, even then, if they have a hassle, they
will remember and when it comes time to upgrade that device, think, "I don't
want another X brand, it was a real hassle getting a diver for the last
one".

So, even when you have a captive audience you can still in the long run cost
your client a customer because you thought all that stuff was neat. And if
your client thinks that it is neat and your can't dissuade him? I guess that
depends on your personal outlook on life and making a living.

Ciao,
Graywolf
http://pages.prodigy.net/graywolfphoto



- Original Message -
From: William Robb <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: OT: What Do You See?


> - Original Message -
> From: dave o'brien
> Subject: Re: OT: What Do You See?
>
>
>
> > Should I only provide pictures on my website as .gifs because
> Netscape 1.x
> > doesn't support anything .jpgs?
>
> If you are writing an image gallery, and you know that a
> significant proportion of your viewers are using Netscape1.x,
> then you damned well should be using gif images, at least as a
> mirror to the jpgs.
> I think that as web page writers we need to be aware that our
> viewership may be several generations behind in their level of
> available technology. I tend to be slow to embrace anything that
> is supposed to be new and better until it is middle aged and
> proven.
> In our example with CSS, there are significant problems with
> implementation, no matter what browser you choose.
> The browsrs you quote may well work with the standards of the
> moment, but the standards themselves keep getting changed.
> Now, are we going to force our viewers, who may be on slow
> internet connections with older hardware to download a bunch of
> new software and keep trying to make our pages work?
> There are too many intercompatability issues with computers. The
> newest software might cure the common cold, but it might not run
> on the OS in use.
> Do you really think that a person will bother to try? I suspect
> they will just go elsewhere for their web based information.
> William Robb
> -
> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
> go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
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Re: More KX ?s, please help

2002-03-19 Thread Steven Gilson

I plan on dropping both the MX and K1000se.  I really don't need more than 2 bodies.  
I want to keep my SP to use my A series lenses and TTL flash, and I want one manual 
backup with as many features as possible.  The KX has a true mirror lock-up which the 
MX lacks, and I like the fell of the larger body and spacing around the controls on 
the top panel better.  But I am still wondering how the screen brightness of the KX 
compares to the K1000se.  Any comments?


Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping!
http://www.shopping.altavista.com
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Re: Black limited lens coating - does it wear?

2002-03-19 Thread Pål Audun Jensen

Rob wrote:


>Is there any disadvantage to the black limited lenses?
>
>I have the chance to buy one at a good price, but dont know whether I
>should be buying silver or black.  I dont care about the look being
>consistent with the body, the silver looks fine to me, but I dont want
>one which will show chips or whatever in the black coating.  Does the
>coating wear at all?


I have actually handled a 77 Limited in black, and in my opinion it didn't 
look as luxurious as the chrome ones. In fact, I resembles most of all an 
A-series lens. The black ones look great on pictures but appeared more 
ordinary in real life. I really don't know if black is as durable as the 
chrome finish. The chrome finish, though, is incredibly durable and making 
scratches on a chrome Limited lens really take an effort.
In the old days, chrome camera bodies were more resistant to wear than 
black ones. Perhaps the same is the case for the Limited lenses?

Pål

l
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Re: pentax-discuss-digest V1 #2357

2002-03-19 Thread gfen

On Tue, 19 Mar 2002 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> A 'mundane' question if I may, for those who might know - how does one
> disable the 'Databack' function on the ZX-5n? I can find nothing in the
> manual about doing so - and can anyone recommend a good 'Guide' text for this
> camera (apart from the 'manual' resource)?

Should be in the manual.. basically, there's the three little buttons..
one of them you can push and it'll cycle through the formats. One of the
formats is just a series of dashes. That one will NOT print anything to
the film.

-- 
http://www.infotainment.org
 "The destructive character is cheerful."  - Walter Benjamin
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Re: Film ISO Speed Choices?

2002-03-19 Thread Cameron Hood

I would like a repeat of 'the Provia talk'. Why shoot at 320 and 100 instead
of the rated speeds, and, more importantly, why would Kodak lie?


C.
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Re: OT: What Do You See?

2002-03-19 Thread Shel Belinkoff

http://www.mit.edu/transweb.html

William Robb wrote:

> Could you send me those URL's?

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/darkroom-rentals/index.html
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Re: OT: What Do You See?

2002-03-19 Thread T Rittenhouse

I seem to recall that NS 6.0 did not have the option to send e-mail in plain
text. Plain text is the standard for e-mail. Of course, many people think
you should not worry about tire boring old standards.

Ciao,
Graywolf
http://pages.prodigy.net/graywolfphoto



- Original Message -
From: William Robb <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 9:38 AM
Subject: Re: OT: What Do You See?


> - Original Message -
> From: dave o'brien
> Subject: Re: OT: What Do You See?
>
>
>
> > I really don't see a point in keeping some old and broken
> software around
> > when there are more recent versions of that same software
> available which
> > are functional.
>
> What about keeping old software versions around that are not
> broken because you don't want to put up with crappy new software
> that is broken out of the box? I find it ludicrous that anyone
> would try to pass off that recent versions of software are
> better than older versions, when often the exact opposite is
> well documented.
> William Robb
> -
> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
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Re: OT: What Do You See?

2002-03-19 Thread T Rittenhouse

Good for you Aaron.

There is an old saying of good mechanics, "If it ain't broken, don't fix
it".

Ciao,
Graywolf
http://pages.prodigy.net/graywolfphoto



- Original Message -
From: Aaron Reynolds <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2002 8:53 PM
Subject: Re: OT: What Do You See?


> On Sunday, March 17, 2002, at 05:31  PM, Mark Roberts wrote:
>
> > Market research has also shown that people are getting more and more
> > *reluctant*
> > to upgrade web browsers at all. Computers are not a hobby to many
> > people these
> > days: they're just a tool and most people want to fsck around with them
> > as
> > little as possible.
>
> Someone asked me today why I was still running Photoshop 5.5 under MacOS
> 9.2.  Well, for what I am doing I saw no major advantage to PS6, didn't
> want to spend the extra money and didn't want to mess up what was a
> tested and quite stable system.  Hell, it took a major disaster for me
> to upgrade from OS 8.6 to 9.2, though I had been running 9.2 on my
> laptop to see how it was and how it worked with the rest of the stuff
> we'd be using.  It was fine, but I didn't install it until the HD with
> the system on it needed to be reformatted.
>
> -Aaron
> -
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Re: pentax-discuss-digest V1 #2357

2002-03-19 Thread VTerv

In a message dated 3/19/02 10:53:15 AM Eastern Standard Time, VTerv writes:


> 
> >> I'm primarily a B&W shooter, and prefer Agfa APX 100 and Tri-X, which I
>> shoot the most.  However, I've run a few rolls of Ilford's HP5+ and
>> liked it, too, so there will soon be more of it in the freezer.  I'm
>> also quite partial to slower speed films, and have a stock of Agfa's APX
>> 25, Efke 25, and, just recently, got hold of Fuji's Neopan F, which is
>> rated at 32 ISO.
>> 
>> I like slower films because there's more opportunity to use wider
>> apertures or slower shutter speeds, allow for more exposure options,
>> and, as an additional benefit, since many people use faster films these
>> days, like 400 ISO, my photos often have a somewhat different look to
>> them.
>> 
>> As a photographer, one can only benefit by being familiar with a variety
>> of emulsions and their characteristics.  Color is just starting to enter
>> my repertoire, and thus far I've used Kodak Supra, Fuji Reala for print
>> films, and a few different slide films.  Bruce dayton sent me a few
>> rolls of Konica Impresa, which I've just started to use, and I'm anxious
>> to see the results.
>> 
>> Also, while the comments of other users are worthwhile, nothing beats
>> using a film yourself.  There are too many variables in equipment,
>> shooting styles, lighting, subject matter, and processing to take
>> anything anyone says about a film as anything more than a
>> generalization.  For exactly the reason one person prefers a particular
>> film, another may find it not to their liking.  
>> 
>> If you want to shoot color, there's a chart on my web site that
>> describes the characteristics of just about all commonly available color
>> films, which might be a good place to start when choosing an emulsion. 
>> Just click on the Color Film Comparison in the Film and Developing
>> section. 
>> 
>> As for B&W, perhaps even more than color, there are an infinite number
>> of choices, because one can choose between many developers and
>> developing techniques which yield a broad range of results.  Again,
>> experimentation is in order, and processing your own B&W can give you
>> control and results that are hard, if not impossible, to obtain by
>> sending the film to a lab.  Do you process and print your own B&W?
>> 
>> 
> 

Hi Shel/Listers,

Good (core) advice - and thanks to everyone who responded to my question. 
When (in a 'former' life;) I sold specialty audio (the 'low' end of the 
'high' - not 'Hind' - end), I stressed the almost alchemical nature of 
blending separate components to achieve a "Gestalt' result, where the (sonic) 
result of the pieces exceeded the (discrete) sum of the system 'parts'...I 
understand the same philosophy holds true in photography (and elsewhere).

I have not, as yet, learned how to develop B&W film - however, I look forward 
to doing so, hopefully soon after my graduate work is complete (in six 
weeks)...

A 'mundane' question if I may, for those who might know - how does one 
disable the 'Databack' function on the ZX-5n? I can find nothing in the 
manual about doing so - and can anyone recommend a good 'Guide' text for this 
camera (apart from the 'manual' resource)?

Thanks again,
Dave
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FTZ330 vs Af280T Flash for SP and MZ5

2002-03-19 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

For power and flexiblity per dollar for your Super Program (and mine), I can't speak 
highly enough of the Ritz Photo Quantary 35-85mm zoom bounce flash with a modular 
(interchangeable) dedicated base. It's actually a rebadged respecced version of one of 
the well-known affordable third-party flashes, whose name escapes me. (The brand whose 
distributor also distributes Slik) Ritz and Penn Camera sell several modular dedicated 
models, including Pentax MF and AF versions. I'm speaking of the most powerful, rated 
at something like 126 ft. It costs around $100 plus $15 module, as I recall; I bought 
mine three years ago.

You can use ISOs uo to 1000. If you know what you're doing (which I don't), you can 
use the flash manually.

The head tilts and swivels. You can select or deselct a small direct-fire fill flash 
(with the full-head only, not by itself), and you can switch bases when you swith 
cameras. I'm hoping mine will fit my pending Ricoh XR-P (which is TTL-capable), but if 
it doesn't, a $15 base module will make it so. If I accidentally snap off the base, 
I'm back in business for $15.

My only gripe, besides the huge size and hefty weight, is that the zoom head requires 
a snap-in diffuser (easy to lose) to go as wide as 28mm. 

By the way, DC-area PDMLers, Penn Camera in Tyson's Corner VA has a used Pentax 
AF400T, I believe, for $150.

[EMAIL PROTECTED]


mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .
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Re: Limited Lens Pool

2002-03-19 Thread Brendan

121mm Macro and 'll ante up with a roll of Micks E200 

__ 
File your taxes online! http://taxes.yahoo.ca
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Re: OT: What Do You See?

2002-03-19 Thread Shel Belinkoff

I have to agree with Bill, here.  He makes a lot of sense.  If the idea
is to share information, then web sites must be designed to deal with
the lowest common denominator of users, new technology notwithstanding. 
Every book I've read on web site design - admittedly I've read only a
few - makes this same point.  If you know that your viewers are able to
use all the newest bells and whistles, and those bells and whistles add
something to the content, then by all means, use 'em.

But in the wide open spaces of the untamed internet, we have people
trying to access information from all parts of the world, using a wide
variety of equipment, and with varying skills when it comes to using the
computer.  It's helpful to them to produce web sites and pages that can
be accessed and read easily, without need for upgrading programs - and
sometimes machines - and all that entails.

We should be making it easy for everyone to access the information we
have to share.

William Robb wrote:
> 
> - Original Message -
> From: dave o'brien
> Subject: Re: OT: What Do You See?
> 
> > Should I only provide pictures on my website as .gifs because
> Netscape 1.x
> > doesn't support anything .jpgs?
> 
> If you are writing an image gallery, and you know that a
> significant proportion of your viewers are using Netscape1.x,
> then you damned well should be using gif images, at least as a
> mirror to the jpgs.
> I think that as web page writers we need to be aware that our
> viewership may be several generations behind in their level of
> available technology. I tend to be slow to embrace anything that
> is supposed to be new and better until it is middle aged and
> proven.
> In our example with CSS, there are significant problems with
> implementation, no matter what browser you choose.
> The browsrs you quote may well work with the standards of the
> moment, but the standards themselves keep getting changed.
> Now, are we going to force our viewers, who may be on slow
> internet connections with older hardware to download a bunch of
> new software and keep trying to make our pages work?
> There are too many intercompatability issues with computers. The
> newest software might cure the common cold, but it might not run
> on the OS in use.
> Do you really think that a person will bother to try? I suspect
> they will just go elsewhere for their web based information.

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/darkroom-rentals/index.html
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RE: FTZ330 vs Af280T Flash for SP and MZ5

2002-03-19 Thread Paris, Leonard

You can use the AF500FTZ with the ZX-5n and all functions are supported.
There's no reason to use the AF280T on the ZX-5n unless you just prefer it
for some reason.

Len
--- 

-Original Message-
From: William Johnson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 10:38 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: FTZ330 vs Af280T Flash for SP and MZ5


Hi,

The newer FTZ flashes will fire on a Super Program, but all you will get
is manual guide number flash.  No auto aperture, ttl, etc.

I have an AF280T to use on my Super Programs and ZX-5n just for that
reason.  It works great.

William in Utah.
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Re: OT: What Do You See?

2002-03-19 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: dave o'brien
Subject: Re: OT: What Do You See?



> Should I only provide pictures on my website as .gifs because
Netscape 1.x
> doesn't support anything .jpgs?

If you are writing an image gallery, and you know that a
significant proportion of your viewers are using Netscape1.x,
then you damned well should be using gif images, at least as a
mirror to the jpgs.
I think that as web page writers we need to be aware that our
viewership may be several generations behind in their level of
available technology. I tend to be slow to embrace anything that
is supposed to be new and better until it is middle aged and
proven.
In our example with CSS, there are significant problems with
implementation, no matter what browser you choose.
The browsrs you quote may well work with the standards of the
moment, but the standards themselves keep getting changed.
Now, are we going to force our viewers, who may be on slow
internet connections with older hardware to download a bunch of
new software and keep trying to make our pages work?
There are too many intercompatability issues with computers. The
newest software might cure the common cold, but it might not run
on the OS in use.
Do you really think that a person will bother to try? I suspect
they will just go elsewhere for their web based information.
William Robb
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Re: FTZ330 vs Af280T Flash for SP and MZ5

2002-03-19 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Christopher Lillja
Subject: FTZ330 vs Af280T Flash for SP and MZ5


> I'm looking for a TTL flash to use with my Super Program and
my MZ5.
>
> Boz's KMP seems to be saying that the FTZ flashes won't work
at all with my Super Program? Is this true? Or will I simply
loose the digital functions?

The FTZ flashes use digital information transfer, which is not
compatable with your older camera. Therefore, you will lose all
flash automation.
>
> Would an AF280T be a better choice to work with both cameras?

The MZ5 is backwards compatable with analog flash units such as
the AF280T. If you want to use a flash on both cameras, it would
be a good choice.
William Robb
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Black limited lens coating - does it wear?

2002-03-19 Thread Rob Brigham

oops, forgot the subject line before...

Is there any disadvantage to the black limited lenses?

I have the chance to buy one at a good price, but dont know whether I
should be buying silver or black.  I dont care about the look being
consistent with the body, the silver looks fine to me, but I dont want
one which will show chips or whatever in the black coating.  Does the
coating wear at all?
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Re[2]: Favorite Body Survey Results UPDATE 23

2002-03-19 Thread Bruce Dayton

Brother Aaron,

I have mailed to Albano several times and mentioned on the list
several times to have my vote changed.  But, as of yet, it has not.

ALBANO, IF YOU READ THIS - PLEASE CHANGE MY VOTE FROM MZ-S TO
P67II!


Brother Bruce



Monday, March 18, 2002, 6:31:35 PM, you wrote:

AR> On Monday, March 18, 2002, at 12:46  PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
AR> wrote:

>> Medium Format:
>> - 645 (1)
>> - 6x7 (7)
>> - 67 (1)
>> - 67II (1)

AR> Brothers, we do not appear to be gaining any ground, despite the 
AR> swelling of our ranks of late.

AR> -Brother Aaron
AR> -
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