Re: SMC-A*85mm 1.4 on eBay

2002-07-01 Thread Cotty

I read the auction description over and over again, and nowhere did I
see mention of the fact that you had the damned thing in a swimming
pool, and damned near electrocuted you and everyone else in the pool
with your flash.

Hmm, my memory is getting hazy, verry hzzy, it could well have 
been a Tokina 28-70 ???  vbg

Cot

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Re: OT: Fuji Provia 100F vs Velvia ? Comments ?

2002-07-01 Thread Flavio Minelli

David A. Mann wrote:
 
 ...
 
 I am also quite fond of Provia 400F.  From the couple of rolls I tried
 out once, It has a nice palette.
 ...

I find the price of this film simply outrageous. Here in Italy is about
10 Euro/USD (eh,eh) and 100F 105 Euros a 30' reel while the roll is
around 6-6,50.
If you consider the Sensia is currently sold in 3-pack for 10 Euro (3.33
apiece) the Pro solutions make sense only if you really need them.

Last lines: I have to say the first reel of 100F I shot really impressed
me. Good colors and not as saturated as the Sensia's one so it's good
even for people. Very fine grain (and I had some 20x30 made from a few
of my shots).

HTH, Flavio
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Re: Camera support choices and comments

2002-07-01 Thread Flavio Minelli

To Rob 1 (Brigham): 
I don't plan to discard the 190. 
Of course not estending the center post is mandatory if you want to get
the best results but, replying to Rob 2 (Studdert), the problem of using
the plastic base is the inability to slightly adjust the camera height.
When I have time I'll inspect the center post and decide if I can saw it
to a more useful lenght.

Bye, Flavio
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Re: Manfrotto 055Cl vs Pro

2002-07-01 Thread Flavio Minelli

David A. Mann wrote:
 
 ...
 
 Are they adjustable like the older lock mechanism?  My older 055 legs
 just require the right size socket (3/8? I forget).  In fact it came
 with a worthless plastic tool for this purpose that broke the first
 time I tried to use it.
 ...

Yes, they should be adjustable and the tripod came with a metal tool,
probably they were inundated by broken plastic ones. One of the things
that makes Manfrotto a successful company is their attention to these
things, they do mistakes but they promptly correct them and always try
to improve their products while keeping the price low.

In my case I couldn't find this head anywhere in Rome so I called
directly the factory where they offered to ship one immediately to the
distributor and from there to the shop in Roma which finally geve it to
me. A really good service, although the distributor wasn't very pleased
with my direct interaction with the factory.

Flavio
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Re: OT: Fuji Provia 100F vs Velvia ? Comments ?

2002-07-01 Thread Bob Rapp

There is one feature about 100F that may not be too well known. It's
exposure range is 1/4000 - 128 seconds WITHOUT any exposure compensation.
The feature of some tungsten film in a daylight emulsion - truly fantastic.

In addition, it is lower contrast with a wider latitude which makes it
perfect for scanning.

Bob
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Re: Re: OT: Fuji Provia 100F vs Velvia ? Comments ?

2002-07-01 Thread David Brooks

I have only shot the sample roll of 400f that 
Aaron gave us earlier this year but i liked 
what i saw.
Price is a bit of a factor though.Something 
like $18.00 Can in these parts.
At least proccess is only $6.00
Dave
 Begin Original Message 

From: David A. Mann [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 14:55:29 +1200
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: OT: Fuji Provia 100F vs Velvia ? 
Comments ?


I am also quite fond of Provia 400F.  From the 
couple of rolls I tried 
out once, It has a nice palette.

Cheers,


- Dave

http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/ (out of date)
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 End Original Message 




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Re: Canon FS4000 film scanner

2002-07-01 Thread Kevin Waterson

On Sun, 30 Jun 2002 22:06:06 -0400
Doug Franklin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
 Scanning at 4000 dpi with 48-bit color, the output images are about
 135MB if you don't crop down to just the frame boundaries, and about
 125MB if you do. Scanning an entire six-frame negative strip at 500 dpi
 and 42-bit color, with FARE enabled, takes less than five minutes.

I dont see the point. What windows image applications can handle 42 bit
color?

Kind regards
Kevin Waterson

Byron Bay, Australia
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July PUG IR

2002-07-01 Thread David Brooks

Had a hance to quickly look at this months 
pug.Again some very nice submissions.
I notice a few IR entries this month,all look 
very neat,but seem to have less pixelation than 
my scan.
May i enquire how ya all are setting up the 
scan??
I did it from the print,and played with the 
settings in Epson Twain 5 in manual mode.
I tried various dpi's and saving at various 
pixel widths but i feel my submission is a lot 
granier than say Tim's etc.
Any set up tips for a scanner newbie??

Dave


Pentax User
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Re: Canon FS4000 film scanner

2002-07-01 Thread Herb Chong

Message text written by INTERNET:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
I dont see the point. What windows image applications can handle 42 bit
color?

Kind regards
Kevin Waterson


Photoshop. that's the only one that matters for most people. the scanner
driver will convert to 48-bit color.

Herb
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Re: tokina 28-70 2.8 on eBay UK

2002-07-01 Thread Cotty

If I didn't already have that lens I'd buy it.

- --- Cotty [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 This one's for UK eBayers only, and *I'm sure* UK
 eBayers won't mind me 
 mentioning it...
 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1363562179

I just bought an EOS version of the Pro II ;-)

Depending on any forthcoming announcements from Pentax in the coming days 
or weeks, I may have some more Pentax gear for sale, more humbly priced 
of course...

Cotty

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Re: PDML Members Photos *UPDATE*

2002-07-01 Thread Timothy Sherburne

Seek on the web and ye shall find...

A good resource: http://www.robotstxt.org/
And the rather dry RFC: http://www.robotstxt.org/wc/norobots-rfc.html

t

On 7/1/02 10:08 AM, Steve Desjardins wrote:

 I'm not familiar with this robots.txt thing.  What does it do and what
 kind of protection does it provide?
 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 07/01/02 12:39AM 
 - Original Message -
 From: Paul Jones [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2002 6:52 PM
 Subject: PDML Members Photos *UPDATE*
 
 
 
 So now if any one has a problem with me using their image off
 Denis's site
 then let me know. They will only be used for this page of pdml
 members. I will
 only be using the images from Denis's site of people who are
 still current
 members of the pdml.
 
 
 Put a robots.txt file on the thing to protect the directory from
 image harvesters
 
 William Robb
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RE: Carry-on inspection of film -- and an unfortunate incident

2002-07-01 Thread Michael Nosal

At 12:58 PM 7/1/02 -0400, you wrote:
Mike Nosal wrote:
  My photo lab has a sign up warning customers that they've experienced
  problems with APS film being fogged by X-ray security machines, but not
  other film types. I'll ask them for more info next time I'm there.

  Could it have something to do with the magnetic layer on APS films?

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the information.  Is this a pro lab or a mini-lab?

Hmmm, more like a prosumer lab - they are way better than most mini-labs, 
but they really aren't a pro lab either.

That's an
interesting thought about the magnetic stripe.  Have you had a chance to see
any examples of fogged APS film, and if so, does it appear that fogging is
worse along the part of the emulsion closest to the stripe?

I just saw the sign up the last time I was there, but I didn't have a 
chance to talk to them about it. I'll see what they say.

--Mike
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Re: Advantage of small f/number!

2002-07-01 Thread Ayash Kanto Mukherjee

Hallo Bill!

The front element of a 50 mm f/1.4 lens has bigger diameter than a 50 mm 
f/4 lens. (Am I correct?) Therefore the preliminary amount of light energy 
reaching an imaginary plane or film behind the lens per unit time per unit 
area is more than a 50 mm f/4 lens as it has a smaller front element. 
When it is stopped down to f/4, the amount 
of light reaching the film plane is more than 50 mm f/4 lens. 
The above explanation depends only on one point that the front element of 
a 50 mm f/1.4 lens has bigger diameter than 50 mm f/4 lens, if it is at 
all correct.

However, you are absolutely right that f/4 is still f/4 or in other words, 
the diameter of the aperture at f/4 is identical in both the cases and 
therefore, the light has to pass through the holes of identical diameters 
but what I mean to say is that the intensity of light in 50 mm f/1.4 lens 
is more than a 50 mm f/4 lens. 

Please correct me, if I am wrong anywhere.

Many thanks for your comments. 

With best regards,
Ayash Kanto.


On Mon, 1 Jul 2002, Bill D. Casselberry wrote:

 Ayash Kanto Mukherjee wrote:
  
  I have some doubts regarding lenses with small f-numbers. Suppose you have
  two lenses, one is 50 mm f/4 and the other is 50 mm f/1.4. If, I stop
  down the second lens to f/4, which one will give faster shutter speed for
  correct exposure? I feel that second lens has more light gathering power
  therefore it will give high shutter speed. Am I correct? 
 
   No - they'd be the same since f4 is f4 no matter the lens, etc.
   It is possible that one may have some indistinguishable difference
   due to light transmission efficieny, but it is doubtful that it
   would be significant enough to register except using extremely
   small latitude emulsions. I suspect no auto exposure camera system
   would be sensitive enough to detect this and change the shutter speed.
 
 
   Bill
 
 -
 Bill D. Casselberry ; Photography on the Oregon Coast
 
 http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: Re: July PUG IR

2002-07-01 Thread David Brooks

Hi Timothy.
I also used the 4x6 print,Epson manual mode so 
i could do the dpi etc adjusting.
I started out with high dpi and when i adjusted 
in PS6 to 600x400 it would make the print size 
about 1x1.5 which i thought would come out to 
small on the PUG.I played with the source and 
destionation sizes and found 100dpi worked best 
to resize to 600x400 and keep a reasonable 
screen size.

Dave
 Begin Original Message 

From: Timothy Sherburne [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 07:32:30 -0700
To: Pentax Discussion List pentax-
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: July PUG IR 


Hi David...

Yes, there are just a few IR pix in there this 
month!

What's your original neg/print like? This scan 
was done with a 4x6 print on
a Umax Astra 2100 (cheapo consumer scanner) at 
600 dpi, 24 bits/pixel. I
actually use these settings for all my 
scanning, then use photoshop to
adjust size and depth as the purpose needs.

The sky was mostly cloudy the day I shot this 
picture, which leads me to
believe the quantity of grain may have been 
affected. Some of the frames are
quite grainy and some are perfectly smooth. I 
finished the roll in about two
hours. The grainiest images seem to be those 
that were reflecting a lot of
direct sunlight.

In this case, the bridge and plants were in 
shade and the sun was mostly
hidden behind clouds.

t

On 7/1/02 3:50 AM, David Brooks wrote:

 Had a hance to quickly look at this months
 pug.Again some very nice submissions.
 I notice a few IR entries this month,all look
 very neat,but seem to have less pixelation 
than
 my scan.
 May i enquire how ya all are setting up the
 scan??
 I did it from the print,and played with the
 settings in Epson Twain 5 in manual mode.
 I tried various dpi's and saving at various
 pixel widths but i feel my submission is a lot
 granier than say Tim's etc.
 Any set up tips for a scanner newbie??
 
 Dave
 
 
 Pentax User
 Stouffville Ontario Canada
 http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj/
 http://brooks1952.tripod.com/myhorses
 Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: 
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Re: Advantage of small f/number!

2002-07-01 Thread Ayash Kanto Mukherjee

Hallo Yves!

Just a few minutes ago, I replied to Bill. 

You are absolutely right in your point. I know that quite well. The 
f-number is defined as the ratio of focal length to the diameter of the 
aperture (Am I correct?). But I am talking about the preliminary intensity 
of light reaching the film plane because of the wider diameter of the 
front element in the case of 50 mm f/1.4.

Your reply is of course comprehensible.

Many thanks for your reply.

With best regards,
Ayash



On Mon, 1 Jul 2002, Yves Caudano wrote:

 At 20:56 1/7/02 +0530, you wrote:
 
 I have some doubts regarding lenses with small f-numbers. Suppose you have 
 two lenses, one is 50 mm f/4 and the other is 50 mm f/1.4. If, I stop 
 down the second lens to f/4, which one will give faster shutter speed for 
 correct exposure?
 
  The correct exposure will be obtained with the same shutter speed for 
 both lenses. Actually, that same shutter speed should even give the 
 correct exposure for any lens [*]. This is because f-stops are defined so 
 that this property holds.
 
  As a result, for identical f-stops, the actual diameter of the 
 diaphragm will depend on the focal length and the lens design.
 
 To go back to your comparison between the two 50 mm lenses, I expect the optical 
quality of the F1.4 lens to be better at f4 than the F4 lens, though (since you are 
not pushing your lens to its limits, especially regarding vignetting).
 
 [*] assuming infinity focus and (as mentioned earlier by Bill Casselberry) 
negligible transmission losses.
 
 Hope this helps (and is comprehensible),
 
 Yves
 
 
 -
 Dr. Yves Caudano
 Laboratoire LASMOS
 Département de Physique
 Facultés Universitaires Notre-Dame de la Paix
 61 Rue de Bruxelles
 B-5000 Namur
 Belgium
 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 tel : + 32 (0)81 72 5487
 fax :   4707
 
 URL : http://www.scf.fundp.ac.be/~ycaudano/
 
 Lasmos laboratory URL : 
 http://www.fundp.ac.be/sciences/physique/lasmos/
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Re: Re: July PUG IR

2002-07-01 Thread David Brooks

Thanks Wendy.I really like your March Road shot.
The main problem i was having was when i 
resized from a large dpi scan,300 or 600 dpi, 
in PS6(to the pug size of 600x400 and 75 k)the 
picture size was reduced to less than an inch 
by abit bigger than an inch.
Am i missing something with the size of file vs 
the constrants in image resize???

Dave


Pentax User
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Re: PDML Members Photos *UPDATE*

2002-07-01 Thread Steve Desjardins

Thanks.   I guess I just don't keep up with these things.

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 07/01/02 01:20PM 
Seek on the web and ye shall find...

A good resource: http://www.robotstxt.org/
And the rather dry RFC:
http://www.robotstxt.org/wc/norobots-rfc.html

t

On 7/1/02 10:08 AM, Steve Desjardins wrote:

 I'm not familiar with this robots.txt thing.  What does it do and
what
 kind of protection does it provide?
 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 07/01/02 12:39AM 
 - Original Message -
 From: Paul Jones [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2002 6:52 PM
 Subject: PDML Members Photos *UPDATE*
 
 
 
 So now if any one has a problem with me using their image off
 Denis's site
 then let me know. They will only be used for this page of pdml
 members. I will
 only be using the images from Denis's site of people who are
 still current
 members of the pdml.
 
 
 Put a robots.txt file on the thing to protect the directory from
 image harvesters
 
 William Robb
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Re: Delivery!

2002-07-01 Thread Camdir

In a message dated 01/07/02 18:34:38 GMT Daylight Time, Frank writes:

 You little tease!!  g
 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  A little box arrived from Japan today.
 
  I will explain later 

Well, now is later  I've had time to code it all up, sort into orders  
stock etc.

A couple of 31mm Black, a couple of 77 Black, a couple of those really rather 
nice Magnifier Fb s, a pile of LX straps, finally some more Body Finder Caps, 
more bright screens all types, LX leather soft cases, a spare? hood for the 
85 1.4A*, some sync cords A  B, oh, and some OM  Nikon stuff you wouldn't 
be interested in.

Toodle pip!

Peter
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July PUG Fave

2002-07-01 Thread frank theriault

I'll try to comment on other favourites later, but I'll take time now to
comment on my absolute favourite for the month, which is:

Angels in America by Richard Seaman

I love the way you panned with the left-to-right plane, keeping that
sharp, while the other jet is a bit blurry, giving the impression of
speed.  You seem to have caught this at the ~perfect~ moment - just as
the nose of each touches the wing-tip of the other - and it makes for
beautiful symmmetry.  All in all,  the composition, the timing and the
sharpness simply make this the best of this month for me.  Thanks for
sharing it with us.

Close second goes to:

After the Fall by E.N.R. Reed

A beautifully poignant moment showing the bond between a father and his
son.  I do kind of wish the father's face were a bit brighter, but of
the two, I prefer seeing the expression on the son's face.  I think
Dad's feeling toward son may be just as well expressed by his body
language in any event.  All in all, a lovely, tender moment.  Thanks.

Hopefully, I'll comment on my other faves in a week or two.  As always,
a terrific gallery, so I'll need to take my time, to make sure I get it
right!

regards,
frank

--
The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The
pessimist fears it is true. -J. Robert
Oppenheimer
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Re: Re: July PUG IR

2002-07-01 Thread Jan van Wijk

Hi David,

On Mon, 1 Jul 2002 13:37:47 -0400, David Brooks wrote:

Thanks Wendy.I really like your March Road shot.
The main problem i was having was when i 
resized from a large dpi scan,300 or 600 dpi, 
in PS6(to the pug size of 600x400 and 75 k)the 
picture size was reduced to less than an inch 
by abit bigger than an inch.
Am i missing something with the size of file vs 
the constrants in image resize???

Yes you are missing something important :-)

You could have changed that resized image (600x400 pixels) to
the right display size by adjusting the DPI from 300 to something
like 75 in photoshop. That way photoshop will show you a size that
is valid for most monitors.  Do NOT resample doing this, or you will 
change the number of pixels again!

The size indicated by your imaging program is just an indication
and is valid for the (also specified) number of pixels/inch

The 300 DPI is used by the scanner and is put in the outputfile so
a printer can print it out in the original size. 300 DPI is fine for printer.

So if you have 600x400 pixels and 200 pixels/inch (sometimes called PPI or DPI)
the size printed would be 3x2 inches. Programs like photoshop can size
the image on the screen to match the printing size.

Viewing the image in 1:1 scaling however, will use the monitor/graphic card
resolution which is usually something like 72 or 75 pixels/inch.

You can change the printing size for an image in photoshop without
changing the number of pixels. All it needs to do is change the
number of pixels/inch. This value is saved with the image so other
programs can use the same value again when printing ...

A 600x400 pixels image is just that 600 times 400 pixels,
that is what defines the resolution of the image when displayed
or printed without any further interpolation.

On a computer-monitor, the total screen is usually 800x600 or 1024x768 pixels,
so an image like 600x400 will easily fit on that.

In general, displaying on a computer monitor will NOT change the image 
resolution by donig a resize or interpolation.

So for submission to the PUG it does not really matter, as long as you have
600x400 pixels (or something close to that) you are fine.

Regards, JvW
--
Jan van Wijk;   http://www.dfsee.com/gallery
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Re: Fuji Provia 100F vs Velvia ? Comments ?

2002-07-01 Thread Pål Jensen

Bob wrote:

There is one feature about 100F that may not be too well known. It's
exposure range is 1/4000 - 128 seconds WITHOUT any exposure compensation.
The feature of some tungsten film in a daylight emulsion - truly fantastic.


REPLY:
Well, I don't think it's particularly fantastic considering the fact that the Kodak 
E-emulsions have done the same for years. I still prefer Kodak film for low light 
shooting. 

Pål
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Re: Fuji Provia 100F vs Velvia ? Comments ?

2002-07-01 Thread Pål Jensen

Dave wrote:

What's the color like compared to Velvia which is ISO 50 ?
It seems that people are either Velvia lovers or Velvia haters - I don't
mind the film but if the colors on the Provia 100 are a little more subtle,
it may be the film for me when it comes to chromes.


REPLY:
Provia F may be more subtle but I for one find the color palette of Provia F to be 
weird. Velvia is saturated but I find Velvia colors accurate whereas the Provia F 
colors are unpleasant. Particularly it's rendering of blue; blue skies are rendered 
with a steelish, grey-blue hue of which I've never seen in real life. Sunny winter 
scenes with Provia F is horrible stuff. 
Provia is also very fine grained but is no sharper than other 100ISO slide films - 
some even say its less sharp. 
Allegedly, Fuji have changed the color response of Provia F after I used it so maybe 
some of the color problems are sorted out. Anyway, I never use it cause it is 
prohibitely expensive costing twice as much as comparable filmst. 

Pål
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RE: A* 600mm f5.6

2002-07-01 Thread Pål Jensen

William wrote:

Shooting in the morning sun the past two days revealed no difficulty focusing a f5.6 
or f8 (with a Kenko 1.5X TC), and I do plan on getting the Pentax 
1.4X-L TC for the superior compatability, but I wonder about a 2X TC, going to F11.  
Will I need a searchlight to focus in cloudy weather?  Your experiences?



REPLY:
My advice is to forget using a 2X converter with a 600mm lens. One thing is that no 
lens will give good result with a 2X converter (in spite of what some people claim, no 
good 2X converter has ever been made - you get visible image degradation with all 2X 
converter + lens combinations known to man), another issue is that a 1200mm lens is 
virtually impossible to support. In  addition, you need to stop down at least two 
stops to get even half decent results from a 2X converter something that gives you a 
shooting aperture of F:22. You are going to be constantly plagued by vibration 
problems and can only shoot still life. 
The Pentax 2X-L converter doesn't really work with the 600/4 if you are even the 
slightest quality concious, at least you need two tripods,  so I doubt it will work 
any better with the 600/5.6. 
The 1.4X-L converter should work great though. 
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Re: July PUG Fave

2002-07-01 Thread ERNReed

In a message dated 7/1/2002 1:07:02 PM Central Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 Close second goes to:
 
 After the Fall by E.N.R. Reed
 
 A beautifully poignant moment showing the bond between a father and his
 son.  I do kind of wish the father's face were a bit brighter, but of
 the two, I prefer seeing the expression on the son's face.  I think
 Dad's feeling toward son may be just as well expressed by his body
 language in any event.  All in all, a lovely, tender moment.  Thanks.
 

Thanks for your compliments -- I liked it too. Will see what I can do about 
bringing up the face.
I'm hoping that they like the photo enough to forgive me for photographing 
them instead of rushing to the rescue ...

ERNR
My photographs hang on the virtual walls at http://members.aol.com/ernreed
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Re: Advantage of small f/number!

2002-07-01 Thread Yves Caudano

At 23:11 1/7/02 +0530, you wrote:

Hi again!

You probably sent this mail before receiving my previous answer: I hope this will 
clarify it anyway.

The front element of a 50 mm f/1.4 lens has bigger diameter than a 50 mm 
f/4 lens. (Am I correct?)

Yes

 Therefore the preliminary amount of light energy 
reaching an imaginary plane or film behind the lens per unit time per unit 
area is more than a 50 mm f/4 lens as it has a smaller front element.

If the diaphragm is wide open, yes. No, if both lenses are set to the same f-stop.

 
When it is stopped down to f/4, the amount 
of light reaching the film plane is more than 50 mm f/4 lens.

No, because you will close down the diaphragm of the F1.4 lens so that the same amount 
of ligth will arrive on the film than with the F4 lens with its diaphragm wide open. 
The additional, outer rays, allowed by the larger front elements of the F1.4 lens are 
blocked by the diaphragm, so that, eventually, the same amount of light reaches the 
film. 

The above explanation depends only on one point that the front element of 
a 50 mm f/1.4 lens has bigger diameter than 50 mm f/4 lens, if it is at 
all correct.

It depends also on the size of the diaphragm.

However, you are absolutely right that f/4 is still f/4 or in other words, 
the diameter of the aperture at f/4 is identical in both the cases and

As a said in my previous mail, the diameter of the aperture at f4 may vary between 
lenses (especially of different focal length). However, the amount of light reaching 
the film at f4 is identical from lens to lens (by definition of f-stops, and this is 
why they are useful!).

therefore, the light has to pass through the holes of identical diameters 
but what I mean to say is that the intensity of light in 50 mm f/1.4 lens 
is more than a 50 mm f/4 lens.

I am writing the following quickly, so take it with a pinch of salt: if the F1.4 has 
the same design than the f4 lens and just has larger front elements, I indeed would 
guess that the diaphragm opening of the F1.4 lens at F4 should be the same than the 
size of the diaphragm of the F4 lens wide open. In other words, I expect that, in that 
*particular* case, the diaphragm of both lens would have the same diameter when the 
same amount of light reaches the film. I may be wrong though.

However, this would be definitely true for a very simple lens consisting of a single 
element: in that case, the amount of light reaching the film depends only on the 
diaphragm size and not on the (larger) lens diameter, since the diaphragm blocks all 
the outer rays and lets only the rays coming from the lens center in. Closing the 
diaphragm behind a large lens is then equivalent to take a lens with a smaller 
diameter.

Many thanks for your comments. 

You are welcome.

Yves


-
Dr. Yves Caudano
Laboratoire LASMOS
Département de Physique
Facultés Universitaires Notre-Dame de la Paix
61 Rue de Bruxelles
B-5000 Namur
Belgium

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

tel : + 32 (0)81 72 5487
fax :   4707

URL : http://www.scf.fundp.ac.be/~ycaudano/

Lasmos laboratory URL : 
http://www.fundp.ac.be/sciences/physique/lasmos/
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unsubscribing for some time

2002-07-01 Thread Laura Cavaliere

Hi!
I'm on holiday and so i'll go to the seaside for some time!

ciao

Laura
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RE: July PUG Fave

2002-07-01 Thread tom

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of frank theriault
 
 
 I'll try to comment on other favourites later, but I'll 
 take time now to
 comment on my absolute favourite for the month, which is:
 
 Angels in America by Richard Seaman

Yeah, that's a great shot. My fave is 

Inside PDML Central by  Bill Owens

I swear, it makes me feel like I was there!

tv
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Re: PDML Members Photos *UPDATE*

2002-07-01 Thread James Adams

http://www.robotstxt.org/wc/robots.html
is the redirected link
James
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Re: unsubscribing for some time

2002-07-01 Thread Jeff

Oh, the seaside. You make it sound very romantic.
When I go on my holidays, it's to the lakefront. No appeal to it.

Jeff

- Original Message - 
From: Laura Cavaliere [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 2:50 PM
Subject: unsubscribing for some time


 Hi!
 I'm on holiday and so i'll go to the seaside for some time!
 
 ciao
 
 Laura
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Pentax lull

2002-07-01 Thread James Adams

I had planned to go for a weeks camping to Vernon, BC with my family today,
but I'm down with bronchial pneumonia.

It might be fun, no fighting kids, just peace and quiet. Won't get out much
with my camera, but I still hope to get some BW  photos done to submit to
the August PUG.

I am thinking of playing around with some still life studies at home, and
see what transpires. Any suggest?
James
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Re: Advantage of small f/number!

2002-07-01 Thread Ayash Kanto Mukherjee

Hi Yves!

Your explanation is absolutely clear to me. So, it is the diaphragm which 
blocks of the extra amount of light collected by lenses with bigger front 
element. 

Yeah! I liked the pinch of salt.
I am very much thankful to you and Bill.

Now, I am in a position to arrive at the second stage of the drama. I was 
watching world cup football on TV and there I saw that all the 
photographers are equipped with small f-number lenses, seemed to be 300 mm 
f/2.8 kind. They must be shooting at shutter speed of 1/125 th of second 
in order to stop the action. Now the light in an artificially illuminated 
stadium is too low. The solution to the problem is to use a fast film and 
a steady tripod since the focal length is too large to hand hold the 
set-up. I shall like to know what aperture do they use with what film 
speed? Do they use those big lenses to take an advantage of f/2.8 or do 
they always shoot at wide open apertures? (I don't think so as the 
photographs appear quite sharp with good depth of field (3 m) in the sports 
magazine) I can put the question in another manner. Suppose I have a 300 
mm f/5.6 lens. What film speed should I use in order to stop the action as 
well as attaining good depth of focus (say, 4 m) in an artificially 
illuminated stadium?

I apologize for this kind of complicated question. I am just inquisitive, 
that's all. 

Many thanks for explanation. It cleared a lot of doubts.

With best regards,
Ayash.

On Mon, 1 Jul 2002, Yves Caudano wrote:

 At 23:11 1/7/02 +0530, you wrote:
 
 Hi again!
 
 You probably sent this mail before receiving my previous answer: I hope this will 
clarify it anyway.
 
 The front element of a 50 mm f/1.4 lens has bigger diameter than a 50 mm 
 f/4 lens. (Am I correct?)
 
 Yes
 
  Therefore the preliminary amount of light energy 
 reaching an imaginary plane or film behind the lens per unit time per unit 
 area is more than a 50 mm f/4 lens as it has a smaller front element.
 
 If the diaphragm is wide open, yes. No, if both lenses are set to the same f-stop.
 
  
 When it is stopped down to f/4, the amount 
 of light reaching the film plane is more than 50 mm f/4 lens.
 
 No, because you will close down the diaphragm of the F1.4 lens so that the same 
amount of ligth will arrive on the film than with the F4 lens with its diaphragm wide 
open. The additional, outer rays, allowed by the larger front elements of the F1.4 
lens are blocked by the diaphragm, so that, eventually, the same amount of light 
reaches the film. 
 
 The above explanation depends only on one point that the front element of 
 a 50 mm f/1.4 lens has bigger diameter than 50 mm f/4 lens, if it is at 
 all correct.
 
 It depends also on the size of the diaphragm.
 
 However, you are absolutely right that f/4 is still f/4 or in other words, 
 the diameter of the aperture at f/4 is identical in both the cases and
 
 As a said in my previous mail, the diameter of the aperture at f4 may vary between 
lenses (especially of different focal length). However, the amount of light reaching 
the film at f4 is identical from lens to lens (by definition of f-stops, and this is 
why they are useful!).
 
 therefore, the light has to pass through the holes of identical diameters 
 but what I mean to say is that the intensity of light in 50 mm f/1.4 lens 
 is more than a 50 mm f/4 lens.
 
 I am writing the following quickly, so take it with a pinch of salt: if the F1.4 has 
the same design than the f4 lens and just has larger front elements, I indeed would 
guess that the diaphragm opening of the F1.4 lens at F4 should be the same than the 
size of the diaphragm of the F4 lens wide open. In other words, I expect that, in 
that *particular* case, the diaphragm of both lens would have the same diameter when 
the same amount of light reaches the film. I may be wrong though.
 
 However, this would be definitely true for a very simple lens consisting of a single 
element: in that case, the amount of light reaching the film depends only on the 
diaphragm size and not on the (larger) lens diameter, since the diaphragm blocks all 
the outer rays and lets only the rays coming from the lens center in. Closing the 
diaphragm behind a large lens is then equivalent to take a lens with a smaller 
diameter.
 
 Many thanks for your comments. 
 
 You are welcome.
 
 Yves
 
 
 -
 Dr. Yves Caudano
 Laboratoire LASMOS
 Département de Physique
 Facultés Universitaires Notre-Dame de la Paix
 61 Rue de Bruxelles
 B-5000 Namur
 Belgium
 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 tel : + 32 (0)81 72 5487
 fax :   4707
 
 URL : http://www.scf.fundp.ac.be/~ycaudano/
 
 Lasmos laboratory URL : 
 http://www.fundp.ac.be/sciences/physique/lasmos/
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This message is from the Pentax-Discuss 

JOHN TITTERINGTON

2002-07-01 Thread Alex

Does anyone have a personal, and, hopefully, recent experience with John
(please limit it to fixing cameras :=)?

Regards,
Alex
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Re: Advantage of small f/number!

2002-07-01 Thread Bill D. Casselberry

Ayash Kanto Mukherjee wrote:
 
 You are absolutely right in your point. I know that quite well. The
 f-number is defined as the ratio of focal length to the diameter of the
 aperture (Am I correct?). 

Yep - so the light-gathering of the bigger front element will
get funneled down to the same as the f4 when stopped down to f4

 But I am talking about the preliminary intensity of light reaching 
 the film plane because of the wider diameter of the front element 
 in the case of 50 mm f/1.4.

The intensity of the source doesn't enter into things. Unless
it differs between the time you use the f1.4 and the time you
use the f4, an autometering system will give the same shutter
speed at any given f-stop. Things do look brighter in the
viewfinder w/ the f1.4, but when stopped down this disappears. 

Bill

-
Bill D. Casselberry ; Photography on the Oregon Coast

http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: July PUG IR

2002-07-01 Thread Bill D. Casselberry

David Brooks wrote:

 Am i missing something with the size of file vs
 the constrants in image resize???

drop the dpi down to 100 (any more is wasted the web)
when you resize to 400x600. This will spread things out
so the image doesn't shrink.

Bill

-
Bill D. Casselberry ; Photography on the Oregon Coast

http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: Canon FS4000 film scanner

2002-07-01 Thread Frits J. Wüthrich

Go to: 
http://www.outertech.com/news.php?news=23PHPSESSID=93ff98990fdc63e637e6e639146f26b5
Download and install the cachemanager, it will resolve the 512MB 
limitation for WindowsME and the like, will likely improve the 
stability of your system, and increase the speed of many tasks, like 
scanning.
If you want, you can register the program for $10


On Monday 01 July 2002 07:09, David A. Mann wrote:
 Doug Franklin wrote:
  Make sure you've got at least 256MB of RAM in your system or you're
  going to do a lot of waiting.  I'm maxed out at 512MB and it helps
  when you've got more than one image in memory, like batch scanning.
   1GB is not too much if you want to batch scan all six frames in
  the negative carrier at once at full resolution.

 Not a problem.  I have 512... I'd have 1Gb by now if it wasn't for
 Win ME.  I don't plan on doing batch scanning.

  That allows you to scan an entire roll of APS film at once.  I hate
  to think how much memory that takes at full resolution.

 Who cares ;)  I do wish it could scan true panoramas (mine are
 24x68mm). The HP S20 is the only 35mm scanner I know of that can do
 this.  But thats a minor point as my Arcus 1200 can handle those, if
 my calibration slide ever turns up.

  Scanning a frame at 4000 dpi, 42-bit color, with FARE (IR
  scratch/dust removal) enabled, will take around ten to fifteen
  minutes per frame.

 That's quite a long time but for the price I have to expect to make
 some tradeoffs.  I saw one review posted a couple of samples images
 with FARE on and off and it looks quite good.  Unless you use the
 strong setting there appears to be very little, if any, image
 degradation.

 Rather than using FARE I will start by just cleaning the slide and
 rubber- stamping dust out.  If thats too much of a chore I'll put the
 FARE on :)

  The
  vast majority of this time seems to be the actual scanning.  It
  doesn't look like changing from USB to SCSI would help much, as a
  fraction of the total time.  It seems like it might knock off
  fifteen to thirty seconds, but that seems to be about it.

 I had to buy a SCSI card for the Arcus 1200 so I'll buy another cable
 and hook it onto that.  The Canon scanner only supports USB1.1 which
 isn't exactly blazingly fast for this kind of application.  USB2.0 is
 a lot faster.

  FARE works very well, but big scratches or hairs or things will
  cause it to fail.  The bummer is that the driver doesn't detect the
  failure until after the entire scan is done, then it throws away
  the image due to the failure.  Cleaning the negative and rescanning
  almost always works.

 I keep a blower-brush at the computer desk and _always_ clean my
 slides prior to scanning.  A five-second brush saves several minutes
 of retouching...

  These operational problems are not enough to keep me from using the
  scanner, though the memory leaks can get me pretty frustrated
  sometimes.

 Yeah it does sound a little annoying, but bad software is a lot
 easier to fix than bad hardware :)  Have you tried it with Vuescan?

  The biggest problem I'm having is what appears to be grain
  aliasing. It only happens at 4000 dpi, and I'm afraid the only real
  way to fix it is to go up or down in resolution.

 I've heard that grain aliasing occurs with all 4000dpi scanners
 anyway. Do you know what slide films would be like in that case?  The
 films I use most are Kodak E100SW and Fuji Provia 100F (and a few
 rolls of Velvia).

  I'm still trying to figure out a really good way to even it out
  after scanning.

 The Arcus 1200 driver has an amazingly good descreening function, but
 that's designed to get rid of regular line-screens from halftoned
 material.

 Thanks for the comments, Doug.  Do you have any specific comments on
 the scanner's dynamic range?

 Cheers,


 - Dave

 http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/ (out of date)
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-- 
Frits J. Wüthrich
(Sent with Kmail)
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Re: Canon FS4000 film scanner

2002-07-01 Thread Frits J. Wüthrich

On Monday 01 July 2002 03:06, Doug Franklin wrote:
 Make sure you've got at least 256MB of RAM in your system or you're
 going to do a lot of waiting.  I'm maxed out at 512MB and it helps
 when you've got more than one image in memory, like batch scanning. 
 1GB is not too much if you want to batch scan all six frames in the
 negative carrier at once at full resolution.

Well, with Vuescan, available from http://www.hamrick.com you can do 
batch scanning without using Photoshop or another program, Vuescan will 
do the scan and save it on your hard disk, so you can do the PhotoShop 
magic in a later phase. You can instruct it to release the memory after 
the scan. This means that you use less memory and you don't use the 
manufacturers driver.

-- 
Frits J. Wüthrich
(Sent with Kmail)
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Re: Canon FS4000 film scanner

2002-07-01 Thread Frits J. Wüthrich

On Monday 01 July 2002 14:25, Doug Franklin wrote:
 I haven't used the strong setting on FARE, but I've been very happy
 with the results of the normal setting.  I just wish Vuescan could
 deal with the scratch removal.

I thought Vuescan does support this, but then again I don't have this 
scanner. 
-- 
Frits J. Wüthrich
(Sent with Kmail)
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Re: Carry-on inspection of film -- and an unfortunate incident

2002-07-01 Thread Bill Owens

 My photo lab has a sign up warning customers that they've experienced
 problems with APS film being fogged by X-ray security machines, but not
 other film types. I'll ask them for more info next time I'm there.

 Could it have something to do with the magnetic layer on APS films?

Not likely.  Could it be because APS uses a plastic cassette instead of
metal, like 35mm?  If so, 120 film should also be fogged

Bill  KG4LOV
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: Carry-on inspection of film -- and an unfortunate incident

2002-07-01 Thread Mark Erickson

I have flown in and out of SFO numerous times with unexposed and exposed 
film, including after the 9/11.  The last time was in March, and I carried a 
bunch of Kodak Portra 400NC.  I had no fogging problems at all.  I'm pretty 
sure that as recently as March the SFO security gates were still using their 
same old equipment to screen carry-on baggage. 

Is there any possibility that he checked the film? 

Also, I think that APS cartridges are plastic while 35mm canisters are 
generally metal. 

Finally, the magnetic information on APS film can include instructions 
intended for the minilab machinery.  Maybe some data field got corrupted and 
made the machine do odd things with the film? 

 --Mark 
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RE: JOHN TITTERINGTON

2002-07-01 Thread J. C. O'Connell

hes being doing my spotmatics for years with
great results.
jco

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Alex
 Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 4:28 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: JOHN TITTERINGTON 
 
 
 Does anyone have a personal, and, hopefully, recent experience with John
 (please limit it to fixing cameras :=)?
 
 Regards,
 Alex
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July PUG

2002-07-01 Thread Daniel J. Matyola

I just finished viewing the entries in the July PUG.  What a truely great
collection of photographs!

The PUG is usually excellent, but I think this month is well above average,
with many great shots.  Quite a humbling experience!

My favorite is Angels in America, by Richard Seaman.  I have attended
many airshows, and taken many shots of the Blue Angels and other groups, so
I really appreciate what a an excellent piece of work this is.  It really
captures not only the particular moment in time, but also the essential
spirit of the Blue Angels' performance.

I also liked the following photos very much, each of which is similar to
shots I have attempted often and each of which really grabs the critical
moment:

Andre Langevin, Bang On
Antti-Pekka Virjonen, Comet Ikeya Zhang
Kathleen Leickly, Tree Swallows
Thibault Grouas, A Colorful Garden

Finally, I also liked Woman on Top, by Ollen Malles very much.  What a
clever and effective still life!

Dan
--
Daniel J. Matyola  mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Stanley, Powers  Matyola  mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Suite203, 1170 US Highway 22 East  http://danmatyola.com
Bridgewater, NJ 08807  (908)725-3322  fax: (908)707-0399
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Re: A* 600mm f5.6

2002-07-01 Thread Fred

 My advice is to forget using a 2X converter with a 600mm lens.

Well, yes and no, Paal...

 One thing is that no lens will give good result with a 2X
 converter (in spite of what some people claim, no good 2X
 converter has ever been made - you get visible image degradation
 with all 2X converter [snip]

Yes, all 2X TC's (and, to a lesser degree, all 1.4X and 1.5X TC's)
cause some image degradation.  However, sometimes the degradation is
small enough, and the use important enough, that such use is
justified.  In addition, the A 2X-L is a better optical match for
the 600/5.6 than are the typical garden-variety 2X TC's with almost
any lens.

 another issue is that a 1200mm lens is virtually impossible to
 support.

Difficult, yes - impossible, no.

 In addition, you need to stop down at least two stops to get
 even half decent results from a 2X converter something that
 gives you a shooting aperture of F:22.

Again, this is true for maximum image quality.  However, sometimes
the use of a TC with a wide open lens is justified.

 You are going to be constantly plagued by vibration problems and
 can only shoot still life.

Or, you would constantly have to be concerned with, and would
constantly have to compensate for, vibration problems.

Are you still showing the effects of your frustration with trying to
use the 600/4 on a zodiac?  g

 The Pentax 2X-L converter doesn't really work with the 600/4 if
 you are even the slightest quality concious, at least you need
 two tripods, so I doubt it will work any better with the
 600/5.6.

Well, the 600/4 is somewhat longer and ~over~ twice as heavy, so its
tripod requirements are a lot more substantial.  While both lenses
have the same FL, the ~much~ lighter 600/5.6 will tax a tripod's
stability significantly less.

Related to this is the fact that I can do a reasonably good job of
hand-holding the 600/5.6 under bright light conditions, but I doubt
that I could ever support the 600/4 without a year's worth of weight
training at the local gym - g.

 The 1.4X-L converter should work great though.

I do agree with that point.

Fred
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Re: Carry-on inspection of film -- and an unfortunate incident

2002-07-01 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Bill Owens
Subject: Re: Carry-on inspection of film -- and an unfortunate
incident


  My photo lab has a sign up warning customers that they've
experienced
  problems with APS film being fogged by X-ray security
machines, but not
  other film types. I'll ask them for more info next time I'm
there.
 
  Could it have something to do with the magnetic layer on APS
films?

 Not likely.  Could it be because APS uses a plastic cassette
instead of
 metal, like 35mm?  If so, 120 film should also be fogged

This is the likely culprit. The steel film can is pretty X-Ray
opaque, with damage coming in via the felt lips and the plastic
spool. APS canisters are X-Ray transparent. They are barely
visible light tight at best anyway.
I would be very hesitant to trust the word of a security goon
about the potential damage from any radiation exuding inspection
device. They are not trained professionals, they are merely
parroting the baboonery from their bureaucrat bosses, who
generally take the best case scenario from the manufacturer of
the equipment and call it the worst case scenario.

Unfortunately with the present level of paranoia, the traveling
photographer is best advised to buy his film and processing at
the destination, whenever possible, no matter how it impacts the
economies of the photographer and his home processing lab.

There has never been a guarantee that inspection equipment will
not damage film, the damage is cumulative, and is most likely to
happen to film that has already been exposed.

William Robb
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New images on web

2002-07-01 Thread David S.

I bought a slide scanner about 2 weeks ago and have just updated my web
site with some newly scanned images.  The new images are under the
Birds gallery.  The other gallery pages still have the old images and
will be updated in the near future.

--
David S.
Nature and wildlife photography http://www.sheppardphotos.com
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Mini update on PDML UK 2002 web site

2002-07-01 Thread Cotty

Getting a bit closer now - a week on Saturday!

If you're anywhere near Cambridge, England, on Saturday July 13th, come 
along to the Flying Legends Airshow at Duxford. Details below.

I've put a little update on the web site, nothing much. Hope to have a 
big update within a week.

http://www.macads.co.uk/pdml/

Cheers,

Cotty

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Re[2]: Advantage of small f/number!

2002-07-01 Thread Bob Walkden

Hi,

 Suppose I have a 300
 mm f/5.6 lens. What film speed should I use in order to stop the action as 
 well as attaining good depth of focus (say, 4 m) in an artificially 
 illuminated stadium?

If your subject is 2m in height then to fill the frame using a 300mm
lens you must be 17m away. To achieve a depth of field of about 4m your
aperture must be at f/16. On a bright day you can do this with ISO 400
film at 1/500 second.

According to Michael Freeman in his book Light all stadiums that have
TV coverage use multi-vapour lamps, because these produce a colour quality
close to normal daylight. He suggests that for ISO 400 film at 1/60 or 1/125
you will need an aperture of f/2.8.

So to achieve a depth of field of 4m your film needs to be rated at
12,800.

However, most of the photographers are probably using digital cameras,
so these calculations may not apply. For example, a nominal 300mm lens
is effectively longer than that, and the f-stop ratio is changed, so
there may be more depth-of-field than I've indicated. These numbers
are for 35mm.

---

 Bob  

mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: Spotmatic SP1000 top removal

2002-07-01 Thread Rob Studdert

On 1 Jul 2002 at 9:49, Peifer, William [OCDUS] wrote:

 These funny screws are used on lots of different Pentax cameras, and I've
 found an easy way to remove them I thought I'd share with anyone interested. I
 take a paperclip, then bend it so that both ends are straight, parallel, and
 spaced the same distance apart as the two holes in the top of the silver screw. 
 I then insert the ends of the bent paperclip into the holes in the screw,
 pushing in as far as the wire ends will go.  I then grasp these two ends of the
 paperclip wires firmly in the jaws of a pair of needle-nose pliers, at a point
 as close as possible to the head of the screw.  I can then rotate the screw
 without bending the wire ends of the paperclip.  Works OK for me -- hopefully it
 may work for others as well.

Hi Bill,

I use the paper clip method too, cut the clip with flush wire cutters then 
file the ends smooth, OK for the cap on the advance lever. However in the case 
of the screw in the middle of the shutter speed dial the holes are so small 
that if you could find a paper clip of the correct diameter the material would 
readily deform hence the use of drills. If you use a vice grip in conjunction 
with drills of paper clips then you can ensure that the assembly will stay 
rigid and correctly spaced.

Cheers,

Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: Carry-on inspection of film -- and an unfortunate incident

2002-07-01 Thread Timothy Sherburne

That does bring up an interesting point about the 120/220, though: Nothing
to shield it. What have people's experiences been with that getting scanned
at airports?

t


On 7/1/02 3:08 PM, William Robb wrote:

 - Original Message -
 From: Bill Owens
 Subject: Re: Carry-on inspection of film -- and an unfortunate
 incident
 
 
 My photo lab has a sign up warning customers that they've
 experienced
 problems with APS film being fogged by X-ray security
 machines, but not
 other film types. I'll ask them for more info next time I'm
 there.
 
 Could it have something to do with the magnetic layer on APS
 films?
 
 Not likely.  Could it be because APS uses a plastic cassette
 instead of
 metal, like 35mm?  If so, 120 film should also be fogged
 
 This is the likely culprit. The steel film can is pretty X-Ray
 opaque, with damage coming in via the felt lips and the plastic
 spool. APS canisters are X-Ray transparent. They are barely
 visible light tight at best anyway.
 I would be very hesitant to trust the word of a security goon
 about the potential damage from any radiation exuding inspection
 device. They are not trained professionals, they are merely
 parroting the baboonery from their bureaucrat bosses, who
 generally take the best case scenario from the manufacturer of
 the equipment and call it the worst case scenario.
 
 Unfortunately with the present level of paranoia, the traveling
 photographer is best advised to buy his film and processing at
 the destination, whenever possible, no matter how it impacts the
 economies of the photographer and his home processing lab.
 
 There has never been a guarantee that inspection equipment will
 not damage film, the damage is cumulative, and is most likely to
 happen to film that has already been exposed.
 
 William Robb
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Re: Canon FS4000 film scanner

2002-07-01 Thread Doug Franklin

On Mon, 1 Jul 2002 21:44:00 +0100, Frits J. Wthrich wrote:

 Go to: 
 http://www.outertech.com/news.php?news=23PHPSESSID=93ff98990fdc63e637e6e639146f26b5

On my machine, Cache Manager made _everything_ worse.  Every program I
use would randomly crash with out of memory errors.  It really blew
Faddish mind.  I gave up after two days of forgetting hell. :-)

TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
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Fwd: Re: Canon FS4000 film scanner

2002-07-01 Thread Doug Franklin

On Mon, 1 Jul 2002 21:44:00 +0100, Frits J. Wthrich wrote:

 Go to: 
 http://www.outertech.com/news.php?news=23PHPSESSID=93ff98990fdc63e637e6e639146f26b5

On my machine, Cache Manager made _everything_ worse.  Every program I
use would randomly crash with out of memory errors.  It really blew
Faddish mind.  I gave up after two days of forgetting hell. :-)
^^^

That's supposed to be Photoshop's ... something went terribly wrong
during the spell check. :-)


TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
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Re: Canon FS4000 film scanner

2002-07-01 Thread Doug Franklin

On Mon, 1 Jul 2002 22:24:50 +0100, Frits J. Wthrich wrote:

 I thought Vuescan does support [FARE], but then again I don't have this 
 scanner. 

It claims to, and it will let you select scratch removal from the
menus, and it even does the IR pass of the image ... then it craps up
the image ... that's the origin of the sepia toning on my machine, I
think.  I haven't tried it without FARE because that's a big part of
why I bought this scanner.

TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
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RE: JOHN TITTERINGTON

2002-07-01 Thread smcforme

 Could I please have his contact info ? 
 
 
  J. C. O'Connell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: hes being doing my spotmatics for years 
with
great results.
jco

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Alex
 Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 4:28 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: JOHN TITTERINGTON 
 
 
 Does anyone have a personal, and, hopefully, recent experience with John
 (please limit it to fixing cameras :=)?
 
 Regards,
 Alex
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RE: Carry-on inspection of film -- and an unfortunate incident

2002-07-01 Thread Rob Studdert

On 1 Jul 2002 at 12:58, Peifer, William [OCDUS] wrote:

 Mike Nosal wrote:
  My photo lab has a sign up warning customers that they've experienced 
  problems with APS film being fogged by X-ray security machines, but not 
  other film types. I'll ask them for more info next time I'm there.
 
  Could it have something to do with the magnetic layer on APS films?

From what I understand APS film is manufactured with a magnetic coating over 
it's entire photosensitive surface it is also a different base material than 
used for 120 or 135 films polyethylene naphthalate (PEN). Whether the backing 
affects the films x-ray susceptibility I don't know however the fact that they 
have a plastic near x-ray transparent shell may. I can't vouch for the 
susceptibility of 120 films to carry-on x-ray exposure as I have managed to 
avoid their exposure by having them processed before flying.

When I shot APS in my travels I managed to carry it on my person through the 
metal detectors without a problem so I didn't have to subject it to x-ray 
inspection. I would guess that had I done so the damage would have been visible 
considering the number of times my other gear was x-rayed.

Cheers,

Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: Canon FS4000 film scanner

2002-07-01 Thread Doug Franklin

On Mon, 1 Jul 2002 21:50:59 +0100, Frits J. Wthrich wrote:

 Well, with Vuescan, available from http://www.hamrick.com you can do 
 batch scanning without using Photoshop or another program, 

But VueScan won't do FARE (IR Scratch Removal).  Plus, I couldn't get
anything that looked good ... every VueScan scan I did came out sepia
toned.

TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
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RE: JOHN TITTERINGTON

2002-07-01 Thread Alex

Sure. It is, out of places, there:
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/cameras/pentax_repair_shops.html

Alex

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of smcforme
Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 6:11 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: JOHN TITTERINGTON


 Could I please have his contact info ?


  J. C. O'Connell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: hes being doing my spotmatics
for years with
great results.
jco

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Alex
 Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 4:28 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: JOHN TITTERINGTON


 Does anyone have a personal, and, hopefully, recent experience with John
 (please limit it to fixing cameras :=)?

 Regards,
 Alex
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Re: Any optical engineers w/zone VI spot meters know this?

2002-07-01 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Sid Barras [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2002 9:13 AM
Subject: Any optical engineers w/zone VI spot meters know this?

Hi Sid;
Sorry to take so long to respond. I aimed my Zone VI modified
Pentax Digital Spotmeter, and chose a neutral gray area (the
street in front of my house). I metered it with no filter, and
with a #87 IR cut filter. I got a 7 stop drop with my meter.
Is is possible you are getting light leakage around your filter?
Also, it is entirely possible that you don't have a modified
meter.
Does your meter have the Modified by ZoneVI Studios plaque
cemented to it or does it just have the zone sticker on the
dial?

William Robb


 Hi all,

 I've been attempting to establish an accurate exposure index
for Kodak
 HIE by using my Zone VI spot meter with an 89b  opaque filter
in front
 of the lens. I establish a zone 'V'ish location in the scene
to be
 photographed, like a patch of green grass, and I take a spot
reading
 with and without the 89b filter.

 Strangely enough, the readings only drop about one stop when I
read the
 same scene with the filter. This violates all my known
(allbeit limited)
 sensibilities about what should happen.

 If this filter is blocking everything below around 720nmm, and
this
 filter is altered for zone system use by limiting everything
above and
 below (approxmately) visual range, the reading I get should
fall
 tremendously.

 Obviously the meter does not trap every range above and below
visual
 light; so what is happening here? Is it an important
consideration? My
 goal is not to understand quantum physics, simply have a more
accurate
 way of establishing exposure for a film that defies, or seems
to defie,
 indexing.
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RE: FS: Kiron 105/2.8 PK 1:1 macro lens, $149

2002-07-01 Thread tom

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Fred
 
 
  or see if I can get by with nothing at all between 55 and 135mm
  (to simplify my life)
 
 No, Paul, that just won't work.
 
 Forget about it.
 
 Don't even think about it.
 
 Fred

He *said* don't think about it.

tv
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Re: Which Manual Zoom?

2002-07-01 Thread Alan Chan

I would recommend MX or ME Super with SMC PENTAX-A 35-105/3.5. The 
viewfinder of Super A/Program is relatively dim and small.

regards,
Alan Chan

My friend who is new to photography has decided to go manual focus for now.
She wears glasses and doesn't like the viewfinders of the ZX-50, ZX-30,
ZX-L, and ZX5n. Her budget doesn't permit her to go with an MZ-S or pro 
body
in another brand for autofocus so she is going to buy a SuperProgram. She
will get an A 50 f2.0 with it.
She really wants a zoom so I am trying to recommend a good all rounder. I
think something in the 28-80, 35-80, or 28/35-105 might be best?

What are opinions on the following possibilities?

A 28-80 f3.5/4.5
A 28--135 f4.0
A 35-105 f3.5
A 35-70 f4.0
K 45-125 f4.0

What is the best? What to avoid, etc? Other suggestions??

Thanks for any input.


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RE: FS: Kiron 105/2.8 PK 1:1 macro lens, $149

2002-07-01 Thread J. C. O'Connell

85mm is the perfect bridge between 50 and 135.
YOU MUST buy a 85mm lens...
jco

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of tom
 Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 11:02 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: RE: FS: Kiron 105/2.8 PK 1:1 macro lens, $149
 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Fred
  
  
   or see if I can get by with nothing at all between 55 and 135mm
   (to simplify my life)
  
  No, Paul, that just won't work.
  
  Forget about it.
  
  Don't even think about it.
  
  Fred
 
 He *said* don't think about it.
 
 tv
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FA: PZ-1 on ebay

2002-07-01 Thread wayne master of jelly

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1363495334
anyone interested its going for about $220 US
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Re: FA: PZ-1 on ebay

2002-07-01 Thread Alan Chan

But the picture looks more like PZ-10.

regards,
Alan Chan


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LowePro Dryzone 200

2002-07-01 Thread Timothy Sherburne

Hello all...

I'm semi-seriously shopping around for a photo backpack; the recent thread
on this topic was very informative. I had narrowed it down to a Micro
Trekker 200 or an Orion, but during my research, I noticed LowePro has a new
pack coming out that appears to be waterproof: the Dryzone 200.

http://www.lowepro.com

For my purposes, this would be perfect. Right now, I use a wet/dry bag
around a camera bag while canoeing. While it keeps my gear dry, It's not
ideal for accessing my gear. Pelican cases are another option, but I think
I'd look ridiculous with one strapped to my back!

Apparently, the Dryzone bag hasn't hit the street yet. But I'm curious to
see if anyone seen it or handled it at a trade show or dealer demo. What
about prices and construction?

TIA,

Tim
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Re: Which Manual Zoom?

2002-07-01 Thread Bob Rapp

- Original Message -
From: Robert Woerner [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 My friend who is new to photography has decided to go manual focus for
now.
 She wears glasses and doesn't like the viewfinders of the ZX-50, ZX-30,
 ZX-L, and ZX5n. Her budget doesn't permit her to go with an MZ-S or pro
body
 in another brand for autofocus so she is going to buy a SuperProgram. She
 will get an A 50 f2.0 with it.
 She really wants a zoom so I am trying to recommend a good all rounder. I
 think something in the 28-80, 35-80, or 28/35-105 might be best?

 What are opinions on the following possibilities?

 A 28-80 f3.5/4.5
 A 28--135 f4.0
 A 35-105 f3.5
 A 35-70 f4.0
 K 45-125 f4.0

 What is the best? What to avoid, etc? Other suggestions??

 Thanks for any input.

 Robert
 -
The 2 best in order of preference are the 35-105 and the 45-125. All, I
believe, are 2 touch except the 45-125 which is easier to use but is the
longest or the lot.

Bob
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RE: PZ-1 on ebay

2002-07-01 Thread Nicolas Colarusso, CGA

Looks like a PZ-20 to me, but I can be wrong...

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of wayne master of
jelly
Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 11:27 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: FA: PZ-1 on ebay


http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1363495334
anyone interested its going for about $220 US
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Re: FA: PZ-1 on ebay

2002-07-01 Thread ERNReed

In a message dated 7/1/2002 10:27:37 PM Central Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 anyone interested its going for about $220 US
 
and Alan Chan commented, But the picture looks more like PZ-10.

The description sounds more like a PZ-1p -- fewer Pentax functions and the 
built-in flash provides exposure compensation and autobracketing.



ERNR
My photographs hang on the virtual walls at http://members.aol.com/ernreed
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Re: FS: Kiron 105/2.8 PK 1:1 macro lens, $149

2002-07-01 Thread Bob Rapp

- Original Message - 
From: J. C. O'Connell [EMAIL PROTECTED]



 85mm is the perfect bridge between 50 and 135.
 YOU MUST buy a 85mm lens...
 jco
 
And then. a 105 K and perhaps a 120 K. The bridge will get stronger.

Bob
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65mm Lens Missing in Action

2002-07-01 Thread J. C. O'Connell

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Bob Rapp
 Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 11:41 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: FS: Kiron 105/2.8 PK 1:1 macro lens, $149
 
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: J. C. O'Connell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 
 
  85mm is the perfect bridge between 50 and 135.
  YOU MUST buy a 85mm lens...
  jco
  
 And then. a 105 K and perhaps a 120 K. The bridge will get stronger.
 
 Bob

But the missing link is between the 50 and the 85mm, there is
no 65mm lens! :(
JCO
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Re: Which Manual Zoom?

2002-07-01 Thread Ayash Kanto Mukherjee

Hi!
I think that 28-135 mm f/4 is the best option because of the range focal 
length one gets and also the maximum aperture do not change when the lens 
is zoomed in. This is great advantage. Why? Because, this 
lens can be used with automatic flash units because one can set the 
aperture precisely in any focal length. Please notice that the maximum 
aperture changes in the case of A28-80mm f/3.5-4.5 and therefore flash 
photography becomes difficult since you never know the aperture when the 
lens focal length is set between 28 and 80 mm.

Hope it helps.

- Ayash.


On Mon, 1 Jul 2002, Robert Woerner wrote:

 What are opinions on the following possibilities?
 
 A 28-80 f3.5/4.5
 A 28--135 f4.0
 A 35-105 f3.5
 A 35-70 f4.0
 K 45-125 f4.0
 
 What is the best? What to avoid, etc? Other suggestions??
 
 Thanks for any input.
 
 Robert
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Re: FS: Kiron 105/2.8 PK 1:1 macro lens, $149

2002-07-01 Thread Fred

 On Behalf Of Fred

  or see if I can get by with nothing at all between 55 and 135mm
  (to simplify my life)
 
 No, Paul, that just won't work.
 
 Forget about it.
 
 Don't even think about it.
 
 Fred

 He *said* don't think about it.

???  (~I~ said Don't even think about it, Tom - I'm not sure what
you mean.)

Fred
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Re: FS: Kiron 105/2.8 PK 1:1 macro lens, $149

2002-07-01 Thread Fred

 85mm is the perfect bridge between 50 and 135. YOU MUST buy a 85mm
 lens...

Absolutely.  And, you never can have too many 85mm lenses...

...even if you also have a few 100-ish macro lenses...  ;-)

Fred
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Re: Advantage of small f/number!

2002-07-01 Thread Ayash Kanto Mukherjee

Hi!

I understand your point quite well now. I liked the term funneled down 
that you used in your explanation. 

Many thanks, Bill.

With best regards,
Ayash.


On Mon, 1 Jul 2002, Bill D. Casselberry wrote:

 Ayash Kanto Mukherjee wrote:
  
  You are absolutely right in your point. I know that quite well. The
  f-number is defined as the ratio of focal length to the diameter of the
  aperture (Am I correct?). 
 
   Yep - so the light-gathering of the bigger front element will
   get funneled down to the same as the f4 when stopped down to f4
 
  But I am talking about the preliminary intensity of light reaching 
  the film plane because of the wider diameter of the front element 
  in the case of 50 mm f/1.4.
 
   The intensity of the source doesn't enter into things. Unless
   it differs between the time you use the f1.4 and the time you
   use the f4, an autometering system will give the same shutter
   speed at any given f-stop. Things do look brighter in the
   viewfinder w/ the f1.4, but when stopped down this disappears. 
 
   Bill
 
 -
 Bill D. Casselberry ; Photography on the Oregon Coast
 
 http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: FS: Kiron 105/2.8

2002-07-01 Thread Bill D. Casselberry

   or see if I can get by with nothing at all between
   55 and 135mm (to simplify my life)
 
the best fill-in between a 50mm and a 135mm is a 6x7 with
the 135mm macro, the 150mm f2.8 and the 200mm f4

!8^DBill

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http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb
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RE: FS: Kiron 105/2.8 PK 1:1 macro lens, $149

2002-07-01 Thread Mishka

right, the one Cotty is selling -- although i am nost sure one can get
a mortgage for this 
vbg

mishka

 From: J. C. O'Connell 
 Subject: RE: FS: Kiron 105/2.8 PK 1:1 macro lens, $149 
 Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 19:49:10 -0700 
 
 
 
 85mm is the perfect bridge between 50 and 135.
 YOU MUST buy a 85mm lens...
 jco
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RE: FS: Kiron 105/2.8 PK 1:1 macro lens, $149

2002-07-01 Thread Mishka

I have a PKA Vivitar version of this lens -- it is fantastic and is
worth every penny. If anyone is looking for 1:1 a macro lens -- this is
the one. The only downside is the wrong direction of focusing (don't
know about Kiron though).

No, I don't expect comissions on this sale :)

Mishka
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Re[2]: Advantage of small f/number!

2002-07-01 Thread Ayash Kanto Mukherjee

Hi!

It is quite an informative email. I never knew the details of the lighting 
in a stadium until I recieved your mail. 

On Mon, 1 Jul 2002, Bob Walkden wrote:

 Hi,
 
 According to Michael Freeman in his book Light all stadiums that have
 TV coverage use multi-vapour lamps, because these produce a colour quality
 close to normal daylight. He suggests that for ISO 400 film at 1/60 or 1/125
 you will need an aperture of f/2.8.

So, it means that 400 ISO film is not enough. One has to use atleast 1600 
ISO film provided that the lens in use is 300 mm f/5.6.

 
 So to achieve a depth of field of 4m your film needs to be rated at
 12,800.

I am shattered. 
 
 However, most of the photographers are probably using digital cameras,
 so these calculations may not apply. For example, a nominal 300mm lens
 is effectively longer than that, and the f-stop ratio is changed, so
 there may be more depth-of-field than I've indicated. These numbers
 are for 35mm.

Aah! those DIGI-guys are always at an advantage but I don't want to go 
DIGI. 

Many thanks for your comment. 

With best regards,
Ayash.
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Re: 65mm Lens Missing in Action

2002-07-01 Thread Bill D. Casselberry

JCO wrote:
 
 But the missing link is between the 50 and the 85mm,
 there is no 65mm lens! :(
 
Again - that's where the 6x7 and the 135mm macro fit in

!8^D Bill

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http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb
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Re: Advantage of small f/number!

2002-07-01 Thread Ayash Kanto Mukherjee

Hi Joe!

So, you mean that professional photographer are shooting all the time at 
f/2.8 and hence they possess those lenses becuase they really need that 
aperture 
only.

Yes, you are right that a monopod will make the life much easier under 
such situation. 

Many thanks for your helpful comments.

With best regards,
Ayash.

On Mon, 1 Jul 2002, Joseph Tainter wrote:
 
 In regard to shooting a teletphoto lens in a stadium. I would recommend
 investing in a monopod to steady your shots. With a monopod you can gain
 1 or 2 EV over hand-held. For example, a 300 mm. lens should be shot at
 1/350. With the monopod, you might go to 1/180 or even 1/90. If the
 professional photographer with an f2.8 lens shoots 1/350 at f2.8, you
 could shoot 1/90 at f5.6 and save a great deal of money (that is, by
 buying an f5.6 lens rather than one that opens to f2.8).
 
 Joe
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OT:Gossen Multi-Beam spot attachment

2002-07-01 Thread smcforme

I have a Gossen Luna Pro SBC and am thinking about finding a Multibeam spot meter 
attachment for it. Has anyone used one of these? Does it work well enough that you 
could recommend buying one over buying a separate spotmeter for travel use? Obviously 
size and weight are a consideration. 

Since the SBC is large enough as it is, maybe you could recommend a combination meter 
that does spot, reflectance and ambient in one, that is as reliable and battery 
thrifty as the SBC, yet smaller. Oh yeah and it has to do low light as well as the SBC 
and not cost muchThat's not asking for too much is it? g

So back to reality; what do you think of the Multibeam?
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Re: Advantage of small f/number!

2002-07-01 Thread Ayash Kanto Mukherjee

Hi Giafranco!

I visited the websites that you have mentioned and can understand the 
position from where you took the shot. I was suspecting from the beginning 
that it should be some sort of hilltop because the skycrappers in your 
photograph look small but I never knew that there is castle with rich 
history. 

A great view as if you are on the top of the world and can see rest of the 
world. I can feel the sensation when somebody goes at such a place. 

As far as the 50 mm lens problem is concerned, I have understood well 
now. So, I won't feel much sorry, if I don't have a small f-number lens. 
Or should I feel sorry? Am I missing something?

Thank you so much for such a nice and informative reply.

With best regards,
Ayash.

On Mon, 1 Jul 2002, Gianfranco Irlanda wrote:

 Hi Ayash,
 
 I took the picture from one of the windows of Castel Sant'Elmo,
 which is one of the four castles of Naples, the only one built
 on the hill. Built during the 16th Century on the site of a
 former, smaller, castle, Castel Sant'Elmo became a prison in the
 18th Century until the 1952.
 It is now a museum and there is kept the photographic archive of
 the Cultural Superintendence of Naples.
 You can see many pictures of the castle at:
 
 http://progetti.webscuola.it/progetti2000/790/CastelSantElmo.html
 
 Too bad the page is in Italian only, but you can clearly see the
 vault windows I took the picture from.
 There's a nice but small picture at:
 
 http://www.medcruise.com/napo/f01_napo.html
 
 The castle is the higher building on the background. The view I
 took is from the right side (facing NE).
 
  I have some doubts regarding lenses with small f-numbers.
 Suppose you have 
  two lenses, one is 50 mm f/4 and the other is 50 mm f/1.4. If,
 I stop 
  down the second lens to f/4, which one will give faster
 shutter speed for 
  correct exposure?
 
 The speed will be the same, if you don't change anything: if you
 compare f/4 of both lenses you'll see that the area enclosed
 into the diaphragm of the stopped down f/1.4 lens is the same of
 the aperture of the f/4 lens wide open.
 
 Ciao,
 
 Gianfranco
 
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 http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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Re: 65mm Lens Missing in Action

2002-07-01 Thread Bob Rapp

- Original Message - 
From: J. C. O'Connell [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 But the missing link is between the 50 and the 85mm, there is
 no 65mm lens! :(
 JCO

55 f1.8 or someone else's 58?

Bob
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Re: OT:Gossen Multi-Beam spot attachment

2002-07-01 Thread Bob Rapp

- Original Message -
From: smcforme [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 So back to reality; what do you think of the Multibeam?
 New! SBC Yahoo! Dial - 1st Month Free  unlimited access
 -

I HAD to have a spot attachment for my old Luna Pro... Just had to! Then my
first spotmeter soon followed after. I was cleaning house and came across it
last year and found that the mirror had lost it's silvering at the edges -
it had been used once! At the end of the day, it was an expensive attachment
that I had to have and it provided no useful help at all.

Bob
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Re: 65mm Lens Missing in Action

2002-07-01 Thread William Robb

  But the missing link is between the 50 and the 85mm, there
is
  no 65mm lens! :(


Doesn't Nikon make a 65mm macro?
I have a 65mm Angulon...

William Robb
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Re: FS: Kiron 105/2.8 PK 1:1 macro lens, $149

2002-07-01 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Fred
Subject: Re: FS: Kiron 105/2.8 PK 1:1 macro lens, $149



 Absolutely.  And, you never can have too many 85mm lenses...

But more than one 77mm is overkill.

William Robb
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Re: LowePro Dryzone 200

2002-07-01 Thread Rob Studdert

On 1 Jul 2002 at 20:37, Timothy Sherburne wrote:
 
 For my purposes, this would be perfect. Right now, I use a wet/dry bag
 around a camera bag while canoeing. While it keeps my gear dry, It's not
 ideal for accessing my gear. Pelican cases are another option, but I think
 I'd look ridiculous with one strapped to my back!

Hi Tim,

I have the Photo Trekker and a heap of Underwater Kinetics and Pelican case to 
house my gear, the hard cases aren't real good to trek with however they'll 
take a gargantuan spill in a canoe :-)

Lowepro do have a hard case that fits into a back pack (Omni Trekker) but its 
huge and heavy. I fit a pair of LX with 3 short lenses and a long lens (100 
macro), folding finder plus my Mamiya 7 with two lenses, finder and Gossen 
meter apart from film and other goodies (I have a pic if you'd like to see how 
they squash in). The DryZone 200 looks to be only a bit smaller than the 
PhotoTrekker.
 
 Apparently, the Dryzone bag hasn't hit the street yet. But I'm curious to
 see if anyone seen it or handled it at a trade show or dealer demo. What
 about prices and construction?

For my money the Lowepro gear is worth the cash, the back pack seem to fit 
pretty well and they're tough, I've ended up on my butt a few times and scraped 
it pretty badly and it's come through well. Also I always clean my gear after a 
grubby excursion and the first thing is a good swamping under the hose, if the 
zips are down up I can give it a drenching before it's wet inside and mine 
isn't even an AW, so I'd expect that they'd perform as advertised.

Cheers,

Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: 65mm Lens Missing in Action

2002-07-01 Thread Rob Studdert

On 1 Jul 2002 at 23:27, William Robb wrote:

 Doesn't Nikon make a 65mm macro?
 I have a 65mm Angulon...

I had a CZ 65mm macro, nice bit of gear went to 1:1 without tubes :-)

Also soon to have a 65mm for my Mamiya (blasphemer I know :-)

Cheers,

Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: OT:Gossen Multi-Beam spot attachment

2002-07-01 Thread smcforme

  Bob Rapp [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

At the end of the day, it was an expensive attachment
that I had to have and it provided no useful help at all.

Bummer...

What specifically made you dislike it so much that you bought a  proper spotmeter 
instead?

Marcus
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Re: LowePro Dryzone 200

2002-07-01 Thread Antti-Pekka Virjonen

At 20:37 1.7.2002 -0700, Tim wrote:
I'm semi-seriously shopping around for a photo backpack; the recent thread
on this topic was very informative. I had narrowed it down to a Micro
Trekker 200 or an Orion, but during my research, I noticed LowePro has a new
pack coming out that appears to be waterproof: the Dryzone 200.

Thanks for the info. I have been looking for a new backpack for quite some time
with no real success and now Lowe seems to have made the perfect pack especially
for watersports/sailing :-) It just makes me wonder if they will extend the 
DryZone series to slightly bigger bags as well ... On the other hand, the
200 seems to be quite a perfect size for a portable photo kit with the interior
size slightly larger than the Nature Trekker AW.

Antti-Pekka

---
* Antti-Pekka Virjonen * Fiskarsinkatu 7 D   * GSM: +358 500 789 753 *
* Computec Oy Turku* FIN-20750 Turku Finland * Fax: +358 10 264 0777 *
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