Re: MI6 use Pentax

2002-01-22 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Not AH. HA.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message - 
From: Brendan [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 11:53 PM
Subject: Re: MI6 use Pentax


 AH he's confused the British regulars for the Canadian
 Army, well the
 local and Provincial regiments were in aqua green tail
 coats and
 single bandoler, except Quebec, they were in a bright
 Blue not to be
 mistaken for the dark blue of the US Blue coats.
 
 
 
  --- Tom Rittenhouse [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  No, no, Mounties wear bright red frock coats. Army
  wears bright red tail
  coats with crossed white bandolers. Look I have seen
  them in the movies, so
  you can't tell me otherwise.
  
  Ciao,
  graywolf
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
  
  
  - Original Message -
  From: Aaron Reynolds [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 1:43 PM
  Subject: Re: MI6 use Pentax
  
  
   On Sunday, January 20, 2002, at 09:51  PM, Tom
  Rittenhouse wrote:
  
Heck, and I thought you blokes wore bright red
  tail coats.
  
   Tom, Tom, Tom...those are Mounties!  The Royal
  Canadian Mounted Police
   would probably not appreciate being confused with
  the Canadian Armed
   Forces, much like your FBI would not appreciate
  being confused with the
   Marines.
  
   Do the FBI have horses?
  
   -Aaron
  
   trying to picture the Mounties' musical ride with
  black sedans and men
   in black shades
   -
  
 
 __ 
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Re: A renown architecter

2002-01-21 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Probably they just need a dictionary. But then maybe it is a very fame
singing group.

I guess we all have our pet peeves about misused words. Mine is campus. I
hear people talking about Corporate Campuses, Industrial Campuses, etc. I
guess my house is a Residential Campus...

Folks say it doesn't make any difference, but if we don't agree on the
meaning of the words, how can we hope to communicate?

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Mike Johnston [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 1:51 PM
Subject: A renown architecter


  The one that I hate the most, the one that really makes me grind my
  teeth is architect. Not the noun, the verb. To architect something is
what
  a systems architect is hired for. So he/she goes off and starts
architecting
  the new system, and when it is finished they do a review to makes sure
it
  was well architected. Honest, I have heard all of these bastardised
versions
  of the word used in just those ways.
  Architecting seems to be a higher level process than designing, so they
are
  somehow not the same thing.
  It probably started because Designers design things and Analysts analyse
  things so therefore Architects must architect things.



 God, Paul, sympathy from me! I loathe that one too. Have you noticed that
 the noun and adjective forms of the word renown have recently begun to
be
 considered interchangeable? A very renown singing group, etc.

 Illiterate, ugly, and ignorant. Talk about teeth on edge.

 --Mike
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Re: A renown architecter

2002-01-21 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

These are being reposted from various hosts around the world. Anyone knows
why let me (and Doug Brewer) know.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Tom Rittenhouse [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: A renown architecter


 Probably they just need a dictionary. But then maybe it is a very fame
 singing group.

 I guess we all have our pet peeves about misused words. Mine is campus.
I
 hear people talking about Corporate Campuses, Industrial Campuses, etc. I
 guess my house is a Residential Campus...

 Folks say it doesn't make any difference, but if we don't agree on the
 meaning of the words, how can we hope to communicate?

 Ciao,
 graywolf
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]



 - Original Message -
 From: Mike Johnston [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 1:51 PM
 Subject: A renown architecter


   The one that I hate the most, the one that really makes me grind my
   teeth is architect. Not the noun, the verb. To architect something
is
 what
   a systems architect is hired for. So he/she goes off and starts
 architecting
   the new system, and when it is finished they do a review to makes sure
 it
   was well architected. Honest, I have heard all of these bastardised
 versions
   of the word used in just those ways.
   Architecting seems to be a higher level process than designing, so
they
 are
   somehow not the same thing.
   It probably started because Designers design things and Analysts
analyse
   things so therefore Architects must architect things.
 
 
 
  God, Paul, sympathy from me! I loathe that one too. Have you noticed
that
  the noun and adjective forms of the word renown have recently begun to
 be
  considered interchangeable? A very renown singing group, etc.
 
  Illiterate, ugly, and ignorant. Talk about teeth on edge.
 
  --Mike
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Re: I still want the A* 135/1.8

2002-01-21 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Anything the government says you have to buy excepted.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Mike Johnston [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 1:08 PM
Subject: Re: I still want the A* 135/1.8


  The value of any item is whatever two reasonably knowledgeable persons
are
  willing to exchange it for.


 Car insurance excepted.


 --Mike

 The life of an intellectual should be a permanent reproach to the idea
that
 knowledge is handed down to us from authority.

 * * *
 Find out about Mike Johnston's unique photography newsletter, The 37th
 Frame, at http://www.37thframe.com.
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Re: I still want the A* 135/1.8

2002-01-21 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Money is merely a counter representing real value that can be traded. It
does not matter what the counter is until the parties issuing them become
untrustworthy then you have Agentina.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Bob Blakely [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 1:12 PM
Subject: Re: I still want the A* 135/1.8


 From: Robert Soames Wetmore [EMAIL PROTECTED]


  The value of any item is whatever two reasonably knowledgeable persons
are
  willing to exchange it for. In general this is governed by the supply
and
  demand. Usability or quality of an item is irrelevant except in that
it
  may generate more demand. There are few other ultra fast 135's
available
  and fewer still in K-mount, and only one made by Pentax.  [Bob
Blakely]
 
  This is one very narrow definition of value conditioned specifically by
an
  unquestioning allegiance to capitalism.

 No. Not based on capitalism. Based on liberty and irrelevant to any
economic system. It is
 based solely on the owner's liberty to evaluate the economic worth of his
own property for
 himself and of the liberty of the other party to evaluate the item's worth
to him. Your
 judgment that the definition is narrow is unfounded.

 Further, the definition is not narrow. It is extremely wide in what it
covers. Except for
 the intrinsic value of some raw materials as they are in the ground, every
dollar
 represents labor directly, and ultimately includes, in the long run not
just the hours,
 but the value of that labor to the society of the laborer. If a society is
in dire need of
 an item (i.e. a lack of a necessity), then the labor of those who produce
the item is
 high. If a society has a glut of some item and they are sitting on shelves
everywhere, the
 labor of those who continue to produce such items will have little value
to society.

  There are many other definitions,
  such as the Marxist definition which takes into account the amount of
labor
  that went into making the item.

 Yes. A position where the liberty of both the owner and the buyer is
thwarted and an item
 of poorer quality may demand a higher price from the buyer who needs it
than another item
 of better quality produced by less labor through better manufacturing
efficiency. This is
 a system where someone (the buyer, the seller or their society) always
gets cheated.

  There are many better definitions of value
  as well which take into account more than just the crude dollar quantity
of
  exchange at a given moment and locale.

 The original post was discussing crude dollar quantity of exchange . I
stuck to the
 topic. Also, you toss out judgments such as crude as though your use of
the adjective
 makes it so, thereby cheapening the hours of hard work by many. Dollars
are nothing more
 than stand ins representing the labor of folks and making it possible
for a carpenter in
 Milwaukee to build an addition to someone's Milwaukee home in trade for a
car made by
 someone in Detroit. Dollars are a stand-in for peoples work. Nothing more,
nothing less. A
 laborer's hard work and sweat (or stress, or whatever) is not crude.
Describing it as
 such might seem... offensive.

 Economics is not about dollars (or euros, or yen, or pesos). Economics is
about the trade
 of goods and services among people. Dollars are simply an abstract
representation of this
 trade among people.

 Regards,
 Bob...
 
 Let us contemplate our forefathers, and posterity,
 and resolve to maintain the rights bequeathed to us
 from the former, for the sake of the latter.
 The necessity of the times, more than ever, calls
 for our utmost circumspection, deliberation, fortitude,
 and perseverance. Let us remember that 'if we
 suffer tamely a lawless attack upon our liberty,
 we encourage it, and involve others in our doom.'
 It is a very serious consideration that millions yet
 unborn may be the miserable sharers of the event.
 - Samuel Adams, 1771
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Re: MI6 use Pentax

2002-01-21 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

No, no, Mounties wear bright red frock coats. Army wears bright red tail
coats with crossed white bandolers. Look I have seen them in the movies, so
you can't tell me otherwise.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Aaron Reynolds [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: MI6 use Pentax


 On Sunday, January 20, 2002, at 09:51  PM, Tom Rittenhouse wrote:

  Heck, and I thought you blokes wore bright red tail coats.

 Tom, Tom, Tom...those are Mounties!  The Royal Canadian Mounted Police
 would probably not appreciate being confused with the Canadian Armed
 Forces, much like your FBI would not appreciate being confused with the
 Marines.

 Do the FBI have horses?

 -Aaron

 trying to picture the Mounties' musical ride with black sedans and men
 in black shades
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Re: MI6 use Pentax

2002-01-20 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Heck, and I thought you blokes wore bright red tail coats. I hear the
Canadian army adopted percussion rifles a couple of years ago. :)

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: frank theriault [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2002 9:28 AM
Subject: Re: MI6 use Pentax


 Well, actually, the Canadian army went into Afghanistan without desert
 camo, becuase we don't have any!  All's we got is green stuff.  Not many
 deserts in Canada, I guess.  Loads of forests, though.

 Not that that's an excuse.  We like to think of ourselves as peacekeepers,
 so we should be ready to go anywhere in the world for that purpose.  I
 suppose that any defense funds that the military can squeeze out of the
 government should really go towards stopping our helicopters from
 plummeting from the sky (as they have a propensity to do, since they're
 about as old as I am!).

 Sigh

 -frank

 Peter Alling wrote:

  At 01:35 PM 1/20/2002 +0100, you wrote:
  Sunday, January 20, 2002, 8:50:19 AM, Brendan wrote:
  B Bet my 28mm vivitar Bond uses Auto 110's , the cia
  B would get what
  B ever cost the most. If you had to work for any spy
  B agency just make
  B sure it's not Canada's. Their so good at intellegence
  B gathering they
  B had our troops go to the desert Afganistan in Jungle
  B cammo, now
  B thats military intelegence for you.
  
  That's VERY shrewd! Nobody would expect troops to go to desert in
  jungle camouflage , so the enemy would just think he's having
  hallucinations.
 
  Actually it's that non-warrior ethos the Canadians have.  I remember
  seeing an interview of some Brigadier General with the Canadian defense
  force who spoke wistfully of how some countries actually
  believe that their Armies should be able to actually fight a war and
  possibly win it.
 
  Good light,
  Frantisek Vlcek
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 --
 The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The
pessimist
 fears it is true. -J. Robert
 Oppenheimer
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Re: MI6 use Pentax

2002-01-20 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Why do I doubt that? I think it is about as likely as that Rolleiflex tape
recorder James Bond used in one of the early movies. Or the industrial laser
in the Rolex watch in a later movie.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2002 10:48 AM
Subject: Re: MI6 use Pentax


 The CIA used a Pentax screw mount at one time, code name Stinger.  You
 can see it here: http://digilander.iol.it/aohc/oddse1.htm

 Simon King wrote:

  Now this raises some interesting questions.
 
  1. How many PDML members are actually deep cover MI6 operatives?
  2. What model Pentax would James Bond use?
  3. What brand does the CIA use?
 --
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: Please Check This Out

2002-01-20 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Yep!

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message - 
From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Pentax List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2002 4:12 PM
Subject: Please Check This Out


 Hi Gang ...
 
 I'd like to know what sort of typeface you see in this logo:
 
 http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/pow/street-gallery-logo.html
 
 Hopefully the font will look like it was typed on an old, manual
 typewriter.
 
 Thanks for any help. 
 -- 
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: The Acoustic Photographer's Guild

2002-01-19 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Get out dictionary. See metaphor.

Literal minded comes to mind, so does anal-retentive. I think Mark changing
it from instrument was stupid, catering to the ignorant always is.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Oliver Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 2:45 PM
Subject: Re: The Acoustic Photographer's Guild


My only concern is
1) how many members of PDML are on their membership list
2) how anyone could match a acoustic, camera and a musical instrument (ok,
apart from shutter .wav files)

a·cous·tic (-kstk)
adj. also a·cous·ti·cal (-st-kl)
  1.. Of or relating to sound, the sense of hearing, or the science of
sound.
  2..
1.. Designed to carry sound or to aid in hearing.
2.. Designed to absorb or control sound: acoustic tile.
  3.. Music.
1.. Of or being an instrument that does not produce or enhance sound
electronically: an acoustic guitar; an acoustic bass.
2.. Being a performance that features such instruments: opened the show
with an acoustic set.
n. Music
  An acoustic instrument.
3) how curmugeonly i have become in my old age to not realise this is
perfect troll material ;)

4) I have a sinar P2 - can I join??... secret hand shake

:)

Oliver

- Original Message -
From: William Robb [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 8:01 PM
Subject: Re: The Acoustic Photographer's Guild


 - Original Message -
 From: Tom Rittenhouse
 Subject: Re: The Acoustic Photographer's Guild


  Ah ha! A secret society. Why haven't I been invited in? Is it
 just because I
  don't know the handshake, or is it a broader issue, maybe
 prejudice? Perhaps
  you don't like curmudgeons?

 No curmudgeons? They didn't mention that when I signed on.

 William Robb
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[demime 0.98e removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
schwa.gif]

[demime 0.98e removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
oomacr.gif]

[demime 0.98e removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
prime.gif]

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Re: MF or MF: was: Anyone shoot MF exclusively?

2002-01-19 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Actually it means Massey-Furguson. MF is painted right on their tractors. On
the other hand it means something that starts with moth and and ends with
ker. But, then you are welcome to use it however you wish.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Anthony Farr [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 8:52 AM
Subject: Re: MF or MF: was: Anyone shoot MF exclusively?


 True enough, but don't hold your breath waiting for the wide world of
 photography to follow your lead.  I for one will not contradict the
 established
 usage.

 BTY I'm not deaf.

 Regards,
 Anthony Farr

 - Original Message -
 From: Fred [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 (snip)
 
  THE MEMBERS OF THE PDML HAVE ~EVERY~ RIGHT (I.E., IT IS ~ENTIRELY~
  WITHIN THEIR PREROGATIVE) TO DECIDE SOMETHING FOR THEMSELVES,
  ~REGARDLESS~ WHAT SOME LONG ESTABLISHED TRADITION MIGHT BE
  ELSEWHERE !!!
 
  (And the fact that we could probably never all get together and
  agree to any one thing is not relevant to the truth of the previous
  paragraph.)
 
  Fred
  -
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Re: Is SMC 55/2 K the best Pentax standard lens? (and 28mm ?)

2002-01-18 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

No, no that is not it. The camera under discussion (SP500, IIRC) came out as
a cheaper version of the more expensive camera. The only actual difference
was the shutter speed dial, and of course the model name. 1/1000 second
focal plane shutters have been around since at least the 1930s.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: David A. Mann [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 12:51 AM
Subject: Re: Is SMC 55/2 K the best Pentax standard lens? (and 28mm ?)


 Frantisek Vlcek wrote:

  TR As I understand it the 1/1000 speed
  TR worked, it just wasn't marked. Now that is weird marketing!
 
  Weird? Even Intel uses such practices :) Otherwise there wouldn't be
  so much overclocking at one stage in computer evolution.

  I would suggest that the 1/1000 may have worked but might not have been
 consistently accurate enough for Pentax's standards.  When they improved
 their fabrication/manufacturing processes they could achieve the 1/1000 a
bit
 more comfortably so added the label.  I am assuming that all of the
cameras
 manufactured after a certain date had the 1/1000 speed marked.

  Just a thought,


 - Dave

 David A. Mann, B.E. (Elec)

 Why is it that if an adult behaves like a child they lock him up,
  while children are allowed to run free on the streets? -- Garfield
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Re: Is SMC 55/2 K the best Pentax standard lens? (and 28mm ?)

2002-01-18 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Focal plane shutters depend on two things for their higher speeds. 1. The
maximum speed of the curtain. That is also the highest flash sync speed. 2.
The width of the slit. At speeds above the highest sync speed the second
curtain is released before the first is fully open, as the delay is reduced
the effective shutter speed goes up.

So, with a focal plane shutter the highest speed should be every bit as
accurate as the highest sync speed.

The inaccurateness of higher speeds is from leaf shutter mythology. I say
mythology because there is a variation of efficiency that has to be taken
into consideration when measuring the highest speeds. Many people who
checked their shutters didn't realize that and concluded that the speed was
not as high as marked. In fact except for lost of tension on very old
shutters every leaf shutter that I have tested was pretty accurate at the
highest speed when the compensation for efficiency was factored in.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Frantisek Vlcek [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: David A. Mann [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 4:22 AM
Subject: Re: Is SMC 55/2 K the best Pentax standard lens? (and 28mm ?)



 I heard that most manual shutters can't get precise enough in the
 super high speeds. That Nikon FM2's shutter isn't much precise in the
 1/4000, really like 1/3000 or so. Makes sense. That's why electronic
 shutters are for.
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Re: The Acoustic Photographer's Guild

2002-01-18 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Ah ha! A secret society. Why haven't I been invited in? Is it just because I
don't know the handshake, or is it a broader issue, maybe prejudice? Perhaps
you don't like curmudgeons?

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Mark Roberts [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 7:01 AM
Subject: The Acoustic Photographer's Guild


 Imagine my surprise at scanning through rec.photo.equipment.35mm today and
 finding a contentious thread concerning the Acoustic Photographer's Guild!
 (http://www.robertstech.com/apg.htm)
 On Google, see

http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=enthreadm=20020118123754.17264.2089%
40mb-bg.aol.comprev=/groups%3Fnum%3D25%26hl%3Den%26group%3Drec.photo.equipm
ent.35mm%26start%3D25%26group%3Drec.photo.equipment.35mm

 Several people seem to have taken the analogy between acoustic mucical
 instruments and manual cameras and extended it to the point where it
breaks down
 (as do all analogies when you keep extending them). The result is even
sillier
 than the arguments that take place here on the PDML about MLU, autofocus
and
 digital photography!

 Anyway, to appease the slavering mob (OK, just two or three anal retentive
 twits) I've removed all references to musical instruments and substituted
lawn
 mowers. That'll teach 'em!

 --
 Mark Roberts
 www.robertstech.com
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Re: Insanity test

2002-01-18 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

So what, it's just another Ford.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message - 
From: Gianfranco Irlanda [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: frank theriault [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 9:02 PM
Subject: Re: Insanity test


 frank theriault [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Nah, I didn't really mean that.  I was talking about the sound
 of their F1
  engines more than anything else.
  
  Actually, one of my favourite Ferraris is the Dino from the
 early 70's, and it
  only had a V8.
 
 ARRGH!
 I cannot leave you alone for a couple of hours!!!
 
 The DINO had a V6!
 
 Gianfranco
 (quite sensitive about Ferrari...)
 
 
 
 
 =
 Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
 http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
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Re: Re[2]: Digital Storage

2002-01-17 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Yah, I bought some house branded CD-Rs from CompUSA. They self erased after
a few days. What junk.

I think sleeves are far safer than jewel cases for storing CDs.  I have had
them break in half when removing them on several occasions. I keep music CDs
in jewel cases in a rack where I can see the titles on the spines, but I
would never keep an archive CD in a jewel case.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Bruce Dayton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 1:49 AM
Subject: Re[2]: Digital Storage


 Shel,

 Don't know the brand.  I think I got them at CompUSA.  Buyer beware. I
 mostly brought this up because it is something that one would not
 normally think about in considering long term storage problems.


 Bruce Dayton



 Wednesday, January 16, 2002, 10:21:08 PM, you wrote:

 SB Sorry to hear about your problem and the frustration it caused you.
What
 SB brand of cases did you use?

 SB Bruce Dayton wrote:

  A few days ago, I needed to find an image so I pulled out a few of the
  CD's and put one in the drive - couldn't read it.  I looked at it and
  found that it was cracked.  I started to examine several of them and
  found that they all were exhibiting the same problem.  Turns out that
  the jewel cases I had used had very stiff spindles to hold the cds and
  it was causing them to crack and radiate cracks from the center
  outward.
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Re: The Graduate

2002-01-17 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

An old trick we used in the dark ages of photography, was to drop glass
marbles into the bottles to take up the air space. Use some of the solution,
drop in more marbles. Of course marbles are probably a thing of the past, I
don't think I have seen kids playing with them in a long while.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 1:30 AM
Subject: Re: The Graduate


 Hi Paul ...

 I don't like those accordion bottles as I'm concerned that continual
 flexing may make them pervious to air and that they may, at some
 point, actually split from frequent flexing.  I'd like to go to smaller,
 dark glass bottles, of a size appropriate to making up one or two
 batches of working solution.
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Re: Well, duh

2002-01-17 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Women spend an hour deciding what to wear this morning, and you wonder why
the think it takes time to pick out what they are going to wear for two
weeks? Besides, it is not figuring out what photo equipment to take (all of
it) that is hard, it is deciding what can be left home that takes time.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Mike Johnston [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 2:27 AM
Subject: Well, duh


  My girlfriend pointed out that i spent more time packing camera gear
than
  clothes :)


 Well, of _course_. Why in the world would anyone think _that's_ odd?

 --Mike
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Re: I'm all about enablement, baby

2002-01-17 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

NO, NO, NO, NO, NO, My way is the right way. Youse is all wrong if you dose
it any other way.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Mike Johnston [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 1:24 PM
Subject: I'm all about enablement, baby


  Subject: Of course, anything Mike says is by definition right


 I should reply more seriously:

 I strongly believe that there are no rules with any of this stuff. One PJ
 says four lenses is the max, and Elliot Erwitt takes along everything he
 owns! Well, point disproved, eh? Because Erwitt is certainly one of the
 greatest.

 I really think that if one person uses only one lens and refuses to touch
 anything manufactured after 1978 and has to develop his prints in goat
 urine, well, that's cool, and if another person buys everything the day
it's
 introduced and picks his lenses based on what he's wearing that day and
 shoots only in the morning, WHATEVER! There just is no right and
 wrong...except if it's what works and doesn't work for each of us. It's a
 HOBBY, and we're having FUN,* and that means whatever we choose to
 concentrate on is okay. People used to call me at the magazine and
apologize
 for this or that technical interest, as if it were somehow shameful to
 collect old box cameras or make spreadsheets on d.o.f. for each focal
length
 or experiment with developer additives. Why apologize? If it's fun and you
 think it's useful, do it up. I really think anything goes with this stuff.

 I even think that some of the widely accepted truths are bull, too. For
 instance, does a good lens make for better pictures? Not in my book. Is
 what matters the finished work? Don't bet on it--I know plenty of REALLY
 GOOD photographers who've never gotten any recognition or remuneration.
And
 so what if somebody sucks as a photographer but enjoys shooting, or
learning
 about some aspect of photography, or collecting something or other? Why
does
 the fact that their pictures suck make the hobby any less enjoyable? It
may,
 but it may not, and, if it doesn't, then I say screw it and enjoy
yourself.

 It's one of the nice things about this list that people are generally so
 tolerant. JCO is crazy about Spotties and Aaron's got the 67 bug, and I
had
 that little psychotic episode where I felt it was up to me to justify
 digital, and there are even a few people who don't even shoot with
Pentaxes,
 and everybody seems to take all that in stride. Which is ENTIRELY the
right
 attitude about photography as far as I'm concerned.

 So am I always right? Just for me. I've got my mojo worked out and yeah, I
 believe in what I do and I'm enthusiastic about it, and I'll tell anybody
 who wants to listen. But if I hate cat pictures, so what? Does that mean
 somebody else can't exclusively concentrate on cat pictures as a life's
 work, and refuse to look at any photograph that doesn't have a cat in it?
Of
 course not. That person is just doing THEIR thing. I'm doing mine. We're
all
 cool.

 Now I'll stop before I start sounding any more like a retread hippie. g

 --Mike

 * You might say that some people are professionals and it's all business
for
 them. Well, I say that's bull too--they're doing this because they love it
 too; they're just being more serious and sensible about the hobby, is all.
 I've never met a photographer who didn't dig photography.
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Re: Modern RC Papers

2002-01-17 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Humph! I think you guys are comparing apples and oranges. I doubt there
would be much difference given the same emulsion on both bases.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Mike Johnston [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 1:49 PM
Subject: Re: Modern RC Papers


  Most of the time when I'm printing fibre, it's Ilford's graded Galerie
  stuff.  I've found that I can produce a print with the same apparent
  contrast as one I've made on RC, but with significantly more detail in
  the richest, deepest blacks and some more detail in the brightest
  highlights.  My prints on Agfa's Multicontrast Classic fibre have
  displayed similar, but not as extreme, results.


 There's a similar (subtle but visible) difference between printing with VC
 and graded fiber papers. You can just pull a bit more shadow detail out of
 graded papers, generally.

 --Mike
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Re: Travelling and Photography

2002-01-17 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

I especially like yellow text on white, it saves me time as I won't even
attempt to read it.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Paris, Leonard [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 1:57 PM
Subject: RE: Travelling and Photography


 Yeah black background with blue text really sucks, doesn't it?  Of course,
 it could be worse.  Black background with purple text, or blue background
 with purple text, or green background with purple or blue text.  We get to
 see all of the hard to read combinations on the web.  It makes you wonder
if
 folks with websites ever surf the web themselves.  Surely they do the
 designs with some other colors or they'd go blind putting their websites
up.

 Len
 ---

 -Original Message-
 From: Doug Brewer [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
 Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 10:41 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: Travelling and Photography


 I don't understand why people write a decent opinion piece and then insist
 on making it impossible to read.

 Doug
 back to work
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Re: BW and filters and C41 BW film

2002-01-17 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Why not? If you use a yellow filter do you not reduce the blue light that
hits the film? And does red not reduce the blue and green? The filters may,
and I said may, have a slightly reduced effect due to the greater
sensimetric range of the chromogentic film, but why would you expect the
filters to work differently.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 7:55 PM
Subject: Re: BW and filters and C41 BW film


 Hi ...

 I just read an article somewhere, within the last couple of days, that
 said regular BW contrast filters don't behave the same way with
 chromogenic film as they do with regular BW negative.  I'm not saying
 they don't have an effect, but that the effect is different.  I don't
 recall where i read it, so I can't provide a citation.

 gfen wrote:

 
  Second of all, do yellow and orange
  filters have teh same contrast
  enhancing effects on C41 BW as they
  do on traditional silver halide BW?

 --
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: Magnification

2002-01-17 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

50mm is normal because it is what came on the camera, and specifically
because that was what Barnnack (sp?) used on the original Leica.

The reason a lens of about the diagonal of the film is usually chosen as the
normal lens is simply because that is the most cost effective focal length
to use. IMNSHO, all the other quasi-technical reasons are simply BS.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Frantisek Vlcek [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mike Johnston [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 5:27 PM
Subject: Re: Magnification


 Thursday, January 17, 2002, 5:16:37 AM, Mike wrote:
  I was sitting in my spare bedroom the
  other nite, camera and FA 28-70 1:4 lens (that my coworkers got me for
  Christmas!) just kind of zooming in and out, when I noticed that my
field
  of view in my free eye matched that of the lens at about 65mm.  It's
pretty
  close to normal, but not too close.


 MJ Chris,
 MJ That depends entirely on finder magnification. It doesn't really have
 MJ anything to do with the field of view you find most comfortable.

 To elaborate: finder magnification of newer bodies is about 0.75x so
 0.75x65mm=49mm, pretty close to normal 50mm. With older bodies,
 which had higher magnification, around 0.85x-0.9x was the norm I think in
 the good old days, notice that Exakta's normal prime lens (first cine
 SLR I think) was 58mm, to allow easy viewing with both eyes open. That
 would mean Exakta had 0.85x magnification. The abundant 55mm (Pentax
 too) is meant for the K series with 0.9x magnification.

 Now somebody can elaborate on why 50mm is considered normal ;-)

 (I think there are two reasons - 1) technical: eyes have 20 diopter
 vision normally, that means the little lens we have, when at ease, has
 20 D=50mm focal length; 2) experimental: we see most easily about the
 same FOV as 43-50mm lenses do on 24x36 frame /very roughly/. Of
 course, I could easily be wrong.)

 Good light,
Frantisek Vlcek
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Re: OT Kiev 60

2002-01-17 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Darkslide, I think you are confusing the Kiev 60 (a Pratisix copy) with the
Kiev 88 (a Hassleblad copy). The information that I have heard, and I
emphasize it is heresay only, is that do to the simpler design the 60 is
somewhat more likely to work properly out of the box than the 88.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: William Robb [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 5:42 PM
Subject: Re: OT Kiev 60


 - Original Message -
 From: Collin Brendemuehl [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Aaron Reynolds [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Gianfranco Irlanda
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Cc: PDML [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 12:15 PM
 Subject: Re: OT Kiev 60


  It looked like it might be an inexpensive step (back) into
 medium format for me.  Prices are really, really cheap for these
 babies.  A complete starter outfit for about $150!
 
  But -- are they reliable, decent optically, etc.

 There is a company that has a tag line that goes something like
 Did you lose at Russian Roulette?.
 They fix Kiev cameras.
 Umm, I had a customer when I was at the pro lab that used one.
 His films had a lot of problems, including, but not limited to;
 overlapping frames, light fogging (the cure for that was to not
 pull the dark slide out completely) and erratic exposures.
 He didn't keep it long.

 William Robb
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Re: OT: What kind of Hand Held Meter do you use?

2002-01-16 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

The both came at the same time, Paul. The 230 had an analog dial that when
you took a reading automatically adjusted itself to the proper settings. A
glance gave you all your f-stop/shutter-speed settings. The digital was
supposed to be more accurate. You hardly ever see the 230 anymore. And, yes,
I guess it was XL.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Paul Stenquist [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 6:08 AM
Subject: Re: OT: What kind of Hand Held Meter do you use?


 Yep, mine is the 240 XL, (not LX). The must have given up on the motor and
 gone to the digital display for the 240. It is a great meter, and it still
 functions perfectly.
 Paul

 Tom Rittenhouse wrote:

  I had the one with the motor driven analog dial (Vivitar 230LX?). It was
  really neat until your used it outside in the winter. When cold the
motor
  pulled too much current for the IC. After the third replacement IC,
first
  two were under warenty, I gave up on it. I still think it was the
neatest
  meter I have ever seen. Too bad they didn't engineer it properly.
 
  Ciao,
  graywolf
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  - Original Message -
  From: Paul Stenquist [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 9:39 PM
  Subject: Re: OT: What kind of Hand Held Meter do you use?
 
   As I mentioned the other day, I have a near twenty year old Vivitar
   240XL. It's a multimeter: flash, averaging and incident. It has a
digital
   readout and provides an EV number in tenths. You have to use a
   conventional, circular slide rule type scale to determine exposure at
a
   given film speed. It can do cumulative flash exposure. And is capable
of
   both incident and averaging flash metering. I also have a Pentax
   Spotmeter V. I am quite fond of both.
   Paul
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Re: A renown architecter

2002-01-16 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Probably they just need a dictionary. But then maybe it is a very fame
singing group.

I guess we all have our pet peeves about misused words. Mine is campus. I
hear people talking about Corporate Campuses, Industrial Campuses, etc. I
guess my house is a Residential Campus...

Folks say it doesn't make any difference, but if we don't agree on the
meaning of the words, how can we hope to communicate?

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Mike Johnston [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 1:51 PM
Subject: A renown architecter


  The one that I hate the most, the one that really makes me grind my
  teeth is architect. Not the noun, the verb. To architect something is
what
  a systems architect is hired for. So he/she goes off and starts
architecting
  the new system, and when it is finished they do a review to makes sure
it
  was well architected. Honest, I have heard all of these bastardised
versions
  of the word used in just those ways.
  Architecting seems to be a higher level process than designing, so they
are
  somehow not the same thing.
  It probably started because Designers design things and Analysts analyse
  things so therefore Architects must architect things.



 God, Paul, sympathy from me! I loathe that one too. Have you noticed that
 the noun and adjective forms of the word renown have recently begun to
be
 considered interchangeable? A very renown singing group, etc.

 Illiterate, ugly, and ignorant. Talk about teeth on edge.

 --Mike
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Re: Best

2002-01-16 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

And there you have it a renown sic expert has said it, so it must be
definitively true. :)

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Mike Johnston [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 1:52 PM
Subject: Best


  I guess on that note Robb, I would like to ask the question:
  Has anyone
  learned which 50mm is best? 1.2, 1.4, 1.7???


 The 1.4. Yep, no question about it, the 1.4 is best.

 --Mike
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Re: C-mount adapter?

2002-01-16 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

I don't thing a 'C' mount lens would cover 35mm. Even if the optics would
the mount would be too small.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: William Kane [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Pentax Discuss [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 8:01 PM
Subject: C-mount adapter?


 Hey gang,

Well, I've recently been playing around with CCD cameras that take a
 c-mount . . . I was wondering if there was such a monster as a
 PK--C-Mount adapter to mount a c-mount lens on a pentax camera?  I
 don't think I've ever seen one, but that doesn't mean much . . .

 Illinois Bill
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Re: Frisky? Moi?

2002-01-16 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Ah, love, the ultimate anti-depressant.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Mike Johnston [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 7:19 PM
Subject: Frisky? Moi?


  Hey, Mike -- what's gotten into YOU? You've been mighty frisky the last
  couple of days, so I have one question: What are you smoking, and didya
  bring enough for the whole class??? :)


 Treena,
 Don't smoke, don't drink, don't do drugs unless they're prescribed.

 I have a crush on a woman I met recently, though, so I suppose the old
 libido is shifting its lazy out-of-shape arse into gear a little bit. That
 could explain it.

 Also, I've been writing the new issue of the newsletter and, literally,
 amusing myself. s

 --Mike
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Re: Glad I got the Yashica TLR's

2002-01-16 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

The older Rolleiflexes did not have that feature. Now who knows which model
first had it?


Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Raimo Korhonen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 12:14 PM
Subject: Vs: Glad I got the Yashica TLR's


Sorry to be nit-picking, but it they did not copy Rolleiflex completely.
Only Rolleiflex had automatic first frame positioning. Actually I do not
know if any MF cameras have this feature evn now.
All the best!
Raimo
Personal photography homepage at
http://personal.inet.fi/private/raimo.korhonen

-Alkuperäinen viesti-
Lähettäjä: Frantisek Vlcek [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Vastaanottaja: Bill Owens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Päivä: 16. tammikuuta 2002 0:10
Aihe: Re: Glad I got the Yashica TLR's


Tuesday, January 15, 2002, 7:35:41 PM, Bill wrote:
BO Boy am I glad I got these yesterday!  Had some minor outpatient surgery
this
BO morning and my left arm is in a splint that prevents me from using my
35's,
BO but I can use the waist level finders on the TLR's.  I think I'll be
able to
BO load the daylight tank and at least process BW.  Hopefully I can try
out
BO the 635 today and compare it to the 124G.  Plans are to use one camera
for
BO color and the other for BW.  Looking forward to trying E100VS too.
The
BO 124G will accept 220, whereas the 635 is 120 only.

Hi Bill,
   I hope it isn't anything serious!

On Yashicas, even if they are just a copy of Rolleiflex (and they
don't even hide it! The design is completely copied Rolleiflex), they
are very nice cameras. My Y-D works greatly with colour slides, and
the shutter is nearly just as smooth as on an old Rolleiflex (but because
the rollei has uncoated lens, I don't use it that much now), and
that's a highest praise any shutter can get (apart from using hat
shutter)...

 Really try a 100VS or Velvia with it, the big size slide will blow
 your head off :)

BTW, the finder brightness can be often vastly improved by cleaning
the mirror and the focusing screen. The removal of finder assembly is
easy and without any focus issues, at least on my Y-D. The mirror is
often full of dust and deposit and can be CAREFULLY cleaned using a
technique I developed by trial and error - get handful of (clean)
cotton swabs on stick (for cleaning ears), get HOT water handy
(distilled!). Wet the swab with the water
thoroughly, and _lightly_ touch the mirror (lightly!), so a droplet
forms around the swab. apply NO PRESSURE at all! Then, swipe a part of
the mirror, guiding the droplet of water with the swab. Near edge of
mirror dry the droplet quickly using a dry cotton swab. Re-wet and use
clean swab as necessary. Why hot water? It makes for much stronger
together bonding droplets than cold water. Stronger bonding droplets?
You don't want any of the water to be left on the mirror, so you need
to move the droplet as a whole (its surface tension keeps it
together), and for some reason, this works much better with hot, about
60 degree Celsius water (I didn't try higher). And of course
distilled!

Experiment on something less valuable if you like, but it's pretty
simple. I even cleaned a much dusty mirror of my K2DMD that way,
although I couldn't clean enough the foam deterioration deposits, the
accumulated dust which didn't go even when I blowed it off disappeared
using this method. My Yashica D's finder brightened by at least a
stop, that much dust was there!

Good light,
   Frantisek Vlcek
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Re: How many lenses do you WANT to own?

2002-01-16 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

At one time my base kit was an MX w the 35/2 and the 85/2. If I was to
replace it I think would get the 100/2.8 instead of the 85. At the moment I
have a 24/2, a 50/1.4 and an 80-200/2.8 as a base kit, more versatile but
somewhat more of a hassle to carry about.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Mike Johnston [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 1:38 PM
Subject: How many lenses do you WANT to own?


 And here's another question for you--how many lenses do you WANT to own?

 I'll answer, at the risk of offending Dan S. with more of my verbosity
g:
 two. What I want is to own nothing more than I use, and to carry
everything
 I own. I'm very aware of the ideal kit for me: a 40mm f/2 and an 85mm f/2.
I
 got used to the 40mm focal length using the CLE and the old Olympus
 pancake (not really a pancake) 40mm, and for me it's perfect--wide
enough
 but not too wide.

 More generically, any moderate-speed, moderate-wide-angle normal lens
paired
 with a moderate tele for portraits.

 When I'm feeling ascetic--as if two lenses is decadent g--I substitute
one
 50mm for both of them. That's what I've been mostly doing in recent years.

 --Mike
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Re: Duchess? Where'd she come from?

2002-01-15 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Didn't you use to write for Harper's Weekly? No, wait, that was Thorne
Smith.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Mike Johnston [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 1:47 AM
Subject: Duchess? Where'd she come from?


  Harumm. My tripod follies test of a couple of years ago clearly
  demonstrated the benefits of MLU in the 1/4 to 1/30 second range
  with a medium telephoto (400mm). The Nikon may have a smooth
  reflex mirror, the Super Program dances like a jitterbug.


 400mm?

 As in four hundred?

 Hmm. To me, a 105mm is a medium telephoto. An ultra-long telephoto is a
 180mm.

 I had a 180mm once, but I couldn't get far enough away from anything to
take
 a picture with it. Even the moon is too close...

 My usual telephoto is an 85mm. I'm less fanatical than my friend Oren,
 though. His telephoto lens is a 50mm.

 I'm afraid I get a little strident when I talk about tripods and mirror
 lock-up and the like. I get a little hard to take. I confess it. I'm
working
 on moderating my bigotry, I really am--I do realize that there are people
 who do very good and interesting work with 35mm cameras on tripods, using
 MLU, etc. It's work I could not do myself. I'm afraid though I'm of the
old
 life on the fly / handheld / natural light / wide angle / quick and
dirty
 / screw it and shoot / black-and-white school.

 You know how sometimes we have a tendency to dismiss what we personally do
 not care about (or perhaps, that we do not understand very well)? It's the
 basis of all bigotry, of course.

 Well, despite years of trying to be catholic (small c) in my tastes in
 photography...that is, to respect ALL sorts of different approaches and
 interests...this very thing is antithetical, I believe, to whatever
 motivates us to love art. We love and value what speaks to us, what has
 meaning for us. And the corollary...we do tend to dismiss contrary aims
and
 efforts, however laudable and harmless they might be. It's something to be
 on guard against

 So, try though I might to moderate my bigoted tendencies, I do tend to
have
 a knee-jerk reaction to, well, say, oh, I don't know, let's just pick an
 example out of a hat, CAT pictures. Prdy flowers. Calendar / postcard
/
 Hallmark Card type shots. Generic pretty colors. Fastidious namby-pamby
 pinko twee tripod crap with every last little line per millimeter showing,
 fine-grain films with no meat or muscle, handbuilt Jerry cameras that cost
 their weight in gold, this or that twinkie magic-potion developer and
French
 froo-froo photo paper and just the right pinch of pyro in the archival
 toner...oh, lock up the mirror, you might get a bit of mirror
vibration,
 Nigel, dear, and then what would the freakin' DUCHESS think? The Duchess
 don't like blurry pichers! An' don't fer heaven's sake get a scratch on
the
 commemorative, you'll knock a thousand off its collector value in the
 freakin' ORIENT, and THAT wouldn't DO, now would it, ya girdle-wearing,
 wine-sippin' sissified tripod-babied mirror-lockin'-up GIT

 Er



 *cough*
  *cough*

 *Ahem*.

 Excuse me.

 Got a bit carried away.

 I'll just make an effort to compose myself here, if you wouldn't mind
 looking the other way just for a second
  [running fingers through hair]
   [straightening tie]
 [wiping foam off mouth]

 So, anyway, as I was saying, I am making a concerted effort to moderate my
 natural tastes and predilictions, and conceive a deep and abiding respect
 for those who do not use photography as I do, and who have need of other
 techniques than mine, and hence, other features, say, on their cameras


 (Okay, okay. I'll keep working on it.)

 g

 --Mike
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Re: How many 35mm lenses do you own?

2002-01-15 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

But then several have more lenses than most dealers have instock.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Paul Jones [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 5:33 PM
Subject: Re: How many 35mm lenses do you own?


 I am actualy quite surprised that some members didnt have more lenses than
 they listed.


 - Original Message -
 From: Len Paris [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 8:24 AM
 Subject: Re: How many 35mm lenses do you own?


  In that case, I guess Shel's is the longest.  So far.
 
  Len
  ---
 
 
 
   Welcome to Phallic Photo.
  
   Regards,
   Bob...
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Re: Diopter HELP

2002-01-14 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Talk to your optomitrist. Have him tell you correction what you need to
focus at one meter. That should be pretty close, as the existing optical
system in the viewfinder usually puts the screen at a virtual one meter.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Mike Johnston [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 10:11 AM
Subject: Re: Diopter HELP


 Peter writes:

  Hello! These little buggers are still available new. At a cost of 6
pounds
  each - to order. The correction lens is fixed into a slide-on plastic
frame.
  Just be sure to order the right strength!


 Peter,
 Do you know if the native viewfinders for Pentaxes have diopter correction
 or not? (Most Nikons for instance ship with -1 diopter viewfinders). And
do
 you know if the labeled degree of correction is what you're _adding_ to
the
 viewfinder or what the final value is? I don't know a thing about how this
 works--I just know that I now need about -2 correction to help me see
 better.

 I miss having 20/15 vision  :-(

 --Mike
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Re: Old Slides

2002-01-14 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Probably 126, unless he had an old Robot 24 camera. The Robot always was
pretty rare, so 126 is most likley.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Mick Maguire [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 10:28 AM
Subject: Old Slides


 Hello all,
   I am in the process of converting my late father's slide library into
 prints, partly because the slides are starting to deteriorate (fading and
 color shift) and partly because nobody in my family has a slide projector
 anymore and this library contains all pictures of the family between 1960
 and about 1985.

 Whilst copying the slides I came across some of a strange shape, they look
 like 35mm slides i.e. the slide mount is the same size as a 3mm slide. the
 difference is that the opening in the middle of the mount is square (I
would
 guess about 24mm or thereabouts). On dismantling a mount the negative
itself
 is square and seems to lack the usual sprocket holes (only 1 being evident
 instead of the usual row). The film is Kodak, but that's all I know. Maybe
 this is a simple question, but I'd like to know what format this film is
and
 what sort of camera might have been used, just for interest... I don't
know
 of any other format camera used by my father other than 35mm, but these
sure
 look like slides he has taken. I would date these particular slides as
being
 around 1970.

 Regards,
 /\/\ick...
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Re: Old Slides

2002-01-14 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

- Original Message -
From: Mark Roberts [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 1:49 PM
Subject: RE: Old Slides

 I had no idea anyone ever offered any kind of quality cameras for 126; all
 I ever saw were thos Instamatics. That's why I was surprised that there
 was slide film in 126 format: I couldn't imaging an Instamatic getting the
 exposure close enough to make it worth while.

Kodak Retina 126 SLR
Zeiss Contacts 126 SLR
to name a couple of reletively decent 126 cameras.
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Re: Shel asks about 24mm f2

2002-01-14 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

The have been conflicting reports on the Vivitar 24/2. Mine is excellent.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message - 
From: Sas Gabor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 11:15 AM
Subject: Re: Shel asks about 24mm f2


 Hi,
 
 And what about the Vivitar 2/24?
 My first impressions: well built, average size (55mm filter), 
 and maybe some special construction; I've never seen a 
 fixed focal length lens with rotating front before...
 
 
 Gabor
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Re: Where no light has gone before

2002-01-14 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Well, I understand that Pentax does/did make an endoscopic camera.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message - 
From: Brendan [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: Where no light has gone before


 Bob lets not give anyone the wrong idea, you never
 know some one might actually do it perish the thought.
 
 --- Bob Blakely [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Damn! I thought from the title that someone actually
  got a flash and camera up their butt
  for the next PUG! What a let down.
  
  Regards,
  Bob...
 
 __ 
 Web-hosting solutions for home and business! http://website.yahoo.ca
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Re: Where no light has gone before

2002-01-14 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

That don't look like what I was thinking of, Fred. Check out he site Rob
Studdert mentioned:

http://www.pentax-endoscopy.com/



Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Fred [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 9:38 PM
Subject: Re: Where no light has gone before


  Well, I understand that Pentax does/did make an endoscopic camera.

 Yes indeed, the MF-1 (sort of looks like an ME with an extra hump on
 the pentaprism) -

 http://www.cetussoft.com/pentax/mf11.jpg
 http://www.cetussoft.com/pentax/mf12.jpg
 http://www.cetussoft.com/pentax/mf13.jpg

  Damn! I thought from the title that someone actually got a flash
  and camera up their butt for the next PUG! What a let down.

 Well, as for that potential PUG photo, it might not be the top photo
 for the month, but it definitely would be right up there.  ;-)

 Fred
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Re: Metering

2002-01-12 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Now tell me how I determine the brightest part of the scene to want detail
in. Assume I am new at this.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: William Robb [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2002 1:48 AM
Subject: Re: Metering


 HAR!!. I will tell you in  2 short sentences how to meter with a
 spotmeter: Meter the brightest part of the scene that you want
 detail. Overexpose 3 stops from that reading (1.5 stops with
 slide film).
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Re: Metering

2002-01-12 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

You know what I think? I think that using a incident meter is too easy. I
think a bunch of the people here like to do things the hard way just to
prove they can. I do know how to use a spotmeter. I do know the zone system.
I don't own a spotmeter though I do occasionally take close up reflected
light readings which is the poor mans way of spotmetering..

I  use an incident meter when I want consistent exposure. In some ways it is
sad that slide shows have gone by the wayside A good slide show had to have
consistent exposures or it was jarringly obvious every time you changed a
slide. That is what made me go to incident readings. That is why motion
picture people use incident meters. With an incident meter I can produce,
90% of the time, contact sheets full of negatives that are as consistent as
studio shots, and can do it almost without thinking.

Spotmeters are very useful tools, but using them for general photography is
sort of like using a micrometer to measure yardage.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2002 2:28 AM
Subject: Re: Metering


 And I'd wager that in less than five minutes I could teach anyone on
 this list how to use a spotmeter to get consistently excellent
 exposures.  It's really very simple, although there are many options in
 the way one chooses to use a spot meter.  Perhaps it's the number of
 these options that confuses you.  One option, and perhaps the simplest,
 is to measure the brightest part of the scene and open up three stops.
 Bada-Bing! a great exposure, simply and without fuss.  Or, for most
 scenes, just point the meter at a middle grey tone (rock, grass, your
 jeans - whatever), and there you have it, another great exposure.

 The beauty of the spot meter is that not only can it be simple to use,
 and used quickly, but that it can be used to solve difficult exposure
 problems as well, in both a clearly understood and very precise
 fashion.  And, once you understand a bit about light and film latitude,
 you can meter from almost any element in the scene, not just the
 brightest or middle grey.  And the thing that's nice, is that the spot
 meter can help you learn about light and latitude as well.  The
 experience and skill just continues to build, each contributing to the
 growth and enhancement of the other, and will ultimately reach a point
 where, in many situations, using a meter will no longer be necessary.



 Tom Rittenhouse wrote:
 
  Doh?
 
  I would like to make a little wager.
 
  I would wager that 90% of the members on this list would get
consistently
  better exposures with an incident meter after five minutes instruction
than
  they would get with a spot meter after taking a weekend course. A spot
meter
  is a valuable tool, if you are doing precision photometrics, for general
  photography it is a pain in the ass.
 
  The TTL meter in most SLR are great for telephoto and macro work, but
once
  again I say that for general photography 90% of the people on this list
  would get far more consistent exposures with an incident meter after
that
  five minutes of instruction.

 --
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: Metering

2002-01-12 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Hummm I hope that didn't come out the way you meant to say it.

To take an incident reading you usually want to hold the meter between the
subject and the camera with the dome pointed toward the camera (needs to be
in the same light as the subject). That will give you your base exposure. .
The direction of the light doesn't make any difference. Closing down or
opening up a stop or two will compensate for unusually light or dark
subjects, if that is what you want to do

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: J. C. O'Connell [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 The problem is there are MANY shades of grey and picking the correct
 one by eye is not always easy especially if the scenes in color.
 Indidence metering is much simpler, just point the incidence dome
 in the direction of the light falling on the subject. When backlighting
 occurs you measure the light falling on the side of the subject being
 photgraphed.
 JCO
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Re: Metering

2002-01-12 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Middle gray is easy. Middle red always gives me a hard time. Middle green is
not bad, but middle blue is almost as hard as middle red. :) Guess I need to
get a point  shoot camera. Anybody want to buy a Speed Graphic?

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2002 3:55 AM
Subject: Re: Metering


 Like I said ...If, as a photographer, you can't recognize a middle grey
 tone, you
 should be using a PS and sign up for a photography class.

 And you're right - I should have said subject and not scene.

 J. C. O'Connell wrote:

  You stated: measure the brightest part of the scene and open up three
  stops.
  not me. This method is flawed. As far as backlighting goes this method
  made no mention of metering on the subject. You stated just meter the
  brightest
  part of the scene and open up 3 stops. Nothing to do with the subject at
  all.

  The problem is there are MANY shades of grey and picking the correct
  one by eye is not always easy especially if the scenes in color.
  Indidence metering is much simpler, just point the incidence dome
  in the direction of the light falling on the subject. When backlighting
  occurs you measure the light falling on the side of the subject being
  photgraphed.
  JCO
 

  =
   J. C. O'Connell wrote:
   
 One option, and perhaps the simplest,
 is to measure the brightest part of the scene and open up three
stops.
 Bada-Bing! a great exposure, simply and without fuss.
   
Thats not always going to work. What happens if the sun is in
the pic, or if the subject is back lit? Your going to end up
with underexposures.
   
  Or, for most
 scenes, just point the meter at a middle grey tone (rock, grass,
your
 jeans - whatever), and there you have it, another great exposure.
   
This is the real problem with spot meters , its not easy to
decide by eye what is middle gray, especially in a color ful scene.
   
  

 --
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: OT:A new web site

2002-01-12 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Very nice, Paul.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message - 
From: Paul Stenquist [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Pentax Discuss [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2002 10:07 PM
Subject: OT:A new web site


 I've put up a new web site. Comments are welcome and appreciated.
 Paul
 http://www.portfolios.com/PaulStenquist
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Re: Mint MX on Ebay, low BIN

2002-01-11 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

You have to understand ebay ratings. Mint means it just came out of the box,
the junk box in the basement that is.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: wendy beard [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 12:25 AM
Subject: Re: Mint MX on Ebay, low BIN


 On 1/9/02 1:14 PM, Rob [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
   Mint MX on Ebay, low BIN
  
  
   http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1320123125
   -

 Good grief, I wonder what I could get for my even-mintier-than-that one.
 Especially as mint seems to mean missing the winder cover and that little
 black thing on the shutter lock.
 Although having said that, $179 is cheaper than the going rate for an MX
in
 the used camera stores, if you can find one.

 Wendy

 ---
 Wendy Beard
 Ottawa, Canada
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 home page http://www.beard-redfern.com
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Re: Re[6]: getting LX - worth it? (repairs,...)

2002-01-11 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Actually, I would think it is because as a US magazine Pop Photo reports
what Pentax USA sells. Pentax USA has not sold the LX for a long time though
it continued to be available in other markets.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: William Robb [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 1:12 PM
Subject: Re: Re[6]: getting LX - worth it? (repairs,...)


 - Original Message -
 From: Bruce Dayton Subject: Re[6]: getting LX - worth it?

  On a side note - I found it odd that each year, Pop
 Photograhpy does a
  camera roundup where they list the main models of each maker.
 The LX
  has not been shown for a very long time, even though it could
 still be
  purchased new, when the Olympus OM-3,4 and Contax RTSII have
 always
  been featured.  One wonders if there is a reason for that.
 
 That would be because for the most part, Pop Phot has their
 heads up their asses.
 Herp Keppler being the notable exception.
 William Robb
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Re: Metering

2002-01-11 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Doh?

I would like to make a little wager.

I would wager that 90% of the members on this list would get consistently
better exposures with an incident meter after five minutes instruction than
they would get with a spot meter after taking a weekend course. A spot meter
is a valuable tool, if you are doing precision photometrics, for general
photography it is a pain in the ass.

The TTL meter in most SLR are great for telephoto and macro work, but once
again I say that for general photography 90% of the people on this list
would get far more consistent exposures with an incident meter after that
five minutes of instruction.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2002 12:30 AM
Subject: Re: Metering


 Thank you, David,  for putting that so succinctly and clearly.  I've
 been arguing that point here for quite a while.  You've said it better
 than I ever did.

 J. C. O'Connell wrote:

   Only an INCIDENCE hand held meter which
   measures light FALLING on the subject will
   give a correct reading. Incident metering
   techniques are far more accurate than
   reflectance techniques which all in camera
   meters use.

 And David Mann correctly countered:

  The incident meter will give you the correct overall
  midtone reading but you will still need to alter your
  exposure to keep detail where you want it.  Film has
  a limited tonal range so if you shoot your inicident
  meter reading you might find that the white car is
  totally washed out, and the black car is just a big dark
  blob.  Your film contrast will determine the outcome,
  and even if you know the film characteristics there is
  no way of knowing how it will be rendered as you
  don't know how much light each subject is reflecting,
  relative to your 18%-grey reading.

 [a little snip here]

   By using my spot meter I get a full tonal scale of what's in
  my picture, then adjust my midtone (ie exposure settings) to
  achieve the results I'm looking for based on the capabilities of
  the film.

 [another snip]

   No matter what kind of meter you're using you still need
  to apply a little brain-power to get good results every time.
  You need to know how your meter works, and what its limitations
  are.  Knowing your film tends to help as well, and so does a good
  feel for what you like (or what your client likes).  Some
  people like to keep shadow detail at the expense of highlights,
  others like their shadows black... and so on.

 --
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: MF or MF: was: Anyone shoot MF exclusively?

2002-01-11 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Did I say GENERALLY AVAILABLE? FWIW, the is/wa a company called Film For
Classics that respooled film in all kinds of obsolete formats for a price.
They might even have a webpage.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: MF or MF: was: Anyone shoot MF exclusively?


 I poked around a little more, and BH has a couple of pages listing
 1110, 127, 620, and 828 film.

 Tom Rittenhouse wrote:
 
  Why not just say 120? Yes there used to be all kinds of roll film out
there
  but I think the only one in general use any more is 120. You can still
find
  220 and 70mm but they have essentially the same formats as 120. Now, I
  always liked 116, anyone tried to buy a roll of that lately?

 --
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: Scanner help

2002-01-08 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

2.3x Bill, not 4x.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Bill Owens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 12:13 PM
Subject: Scanner help


 Now that I've taken the plunge (albeit cheaply) in MF, I'm interested in a
 scanner with a transparency adapter that will scan 120 film.  Any
 suggestions?  Also, wouldn't 1200 dpi in MF be about the equivalent of
4800
 dpi in 35mm, or am I having a senior moment?

 Bill, KG4LOV
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Re: What did we shoot this weekend?

2002-01-08 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Interestingly enough, depression is not neccessarily purely a mental
problem. Mine was caused by a physical problem (attrial fibrilation) once
that got taken care of the depression mostly went away. Have you friend get
a thorough phyical if he (or she) has not done so.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 2:44 PM
Subject: Re: What did we shoot this weekend?


 Hi ...

 No need to apologize, but it's gratefully accepted.  It's easy to
 misconstrue intent when we communicate in this manner, and considering
 that I often kid around on this list, it's even easier to understand
 your response.  Just be glad I'm not Mafud vbg.

 It's a tough subject to tackle because there are so few things of
 outward appearance that can tell the story.  A messy, darkened house,
 lethargy (how does one photograph lethargy?), inattention to certain
 details of one's life, and so forth.  Anyway, it'll interesting to see
 what the first roll of film shows, and what it might indicate for future
 photographs.

 Cotty wrote:
 
  Yes ... but I'm actually doing this.  My post was not a joke.  There is
  a person in my life who is suffering from terrible depression, and I
  want to document it.
 
  Apologies, Shel. It's too easy to be frivolous with the damned keyboard.
 
  It sounds like an excellent photographic subject.

 --
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: Scanning Terminology Questions

2002-01-06 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

I'm sorry, I did not realize english was not your primary language. In the
future you might want to remember that falsehood means the same thing as
lie.

You say I IMPLIED. I implied nothing, I made a simple statement that 8 bits
= 256 (decimal) steps.

You do not seem to understand the concept of limits (might want to take an
elementary calculus course).

In graphics white, and black, are limits. All the scales measure from white
to black. There are no values beyond them. Density is measured on a
logarithmic scale of Zero to 4.0. There are 10,000 (linear) values between
the two. There are, and by definition can not be, any values less than Zero,
nor more than 4.0. The reason white is Zero is simply because these values
were measured from the separation negative with a transmission densiometer,
opaque (zero transmission) was defined as Zero, and the clear film base as
4.0. Saying you have a density grater than 4.0 is the same as saying you
have a Black that is blacker than Black. Not only is that in error, it is
nonsense. That never did hinder ad copy writer's in the past and won't in
the future.

Similarly your bit depth (a misnomer if there ever was one) is measured from
white to black. You do not get a longer range, just smaller steps between
those limits, when you increase the number of bits.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: J. C. O'Connell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2002 2:28 AM
Subject: RE: Scanning Terminology Questions


  Subject: Re: Scanning Terminology Questions
 
 
  You know what? Even if I was mistaken, you would still be an ass
  for calling
  me a liar. However, I am not mistaken, you just can not read.

 I never said you were lying, I said you were wrong. Big difference,
 why would anyone lie about such a thing???

 
  256 tints of Red x 256 tints of Blue x 256 tints of Green give
  16.7M tints
  of color. I used the term tints instead of shades because that is a more
  accurate color concept.

 I can read. You didnt write it correctly.
 You said,
 Quote :
Bit depth is how many tints of color are available. With 8 bits per
color you are limited to 256 tints. More is better.

 You first state bit depth determines how many tints of COLOR are
 availible, which is true but then you go on to say with 8 bits you
 only get 256 tints IMPLYING tints of COLOR again which is false.
 You should have finished by saying with 8 bits per color you are limited
to
 256 tints PER coler which you didnt. Or if you had first stated
 that bit depth is how many tints PER color istead of tints OF
 color then the implication in the second sentence would have been
 different and correct.

 
  Dmax is not exactly the same as Dynamic range, it ignores the
  min-white and
  just tells you what the max-black that can be recorded is.

 Youre probably right about the Dmax analogy term I used but
 you said:

Density range is how much of a scale for pure white to pure
  black can be
recorded on an scale of 0=white to 4=black. Dynamic range is the
difference
between the two numbers.

 The dynamic range of a scanner is not some simple scale from 1 to 4.
 It is as I stated the ratio of the highest recordable intensity
 to the lowest recordable intensity and the scale is exponential like I
 stated. The scale is from zero to infinity. Real world scanners
 wouldnt scan at zero and its impossible to achive numbers higher
 then 3-4 nowadays. That's doesnt mean some future scanner couldnt
 have a dynamic range spec. of 4.5 for example. The way you describe
 it with 0=white and 4 = black doesnt make any sense at all. You
 can say you just simplified it if you like but I dont agree
 with that asessment at all.

 JCO


 
  Furthermore, Shel asked that this all be explained in simple
  terms ignoring
  the technical details. I tried to do that. I may not have succeeded, but
  you, besides only being half informed, did not even try.
 
  Ciao,
  graywolf
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 
 
  - Original Message -
  From: J. C. O'Connell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 8:29 PM
  Subject: RE: Scanning Terminology Questions
 
 
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Tom Rittenhouse
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 7:40 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Scanning Terminology Questions
   
   
Bit depth is how many tints of color are available. With 8 bits per
  color
you are limited to 256 tints. More is better.
  
   This is the second person to make this false statement so it
   needs correction REAL FAST. With 8 bits per color you do not
   have 256 colors, you have 256 CUBED colors which is 16.7
   MILLION colors, quite a difference.
  
  
   
Density range is how much of a scale for pure white to pure
  black can

Re: Didya miss me?

2002-01-05 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Eh. Nice to hear from you again. Kind of wondered what happened to our
favorite Kiwi.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Jody [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Discuss Pentax [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 8:13 AM
Subject: Didya miss me?


 Hello everyone,

 Gianfranco somehow found my home email and contacted
 me.  I had been thinking of getting back to you guys
 for a while.  He just gave me the impetus.  So I have
 just cleaned my slate, and re subscribed.  Now I'm
 ready to  start again for the new year.  I'll try to
 keep up this year, at least I have no distractions in
 the way of flatmates.  My time is now my own, when I'm
 not working, studying, eating, sleeping.

 Just heard the news about Jeepgirl.  Never mind, Tom,
 consolation is only a plane ticket to New Zealand away
 ;)
 Has anyone managed to find out where hubby suddenly
 appeared from?

 I loe having a car.  Just got my first car in
 October, after 20-something years of Shanks's pony and
 Shanks's horse (bike). Just gotta watch that weight
 creeping on.

 Had a strange problem with my LX today.  Put a new
 film in, wound it a little, closed the back, suddenly
 it wouldn't wind on.  Tried again a few times.
 Finally discovered if I took off the lens cap, then
 waited for a click, I could wind on.  About 10 frames
 in, though, it seemed to fix itself.  To quote Steve
 Irwin Truly extraordinary.  Also the mirror foam has
 started getting tacky (I won't allow myself to say
 st**ky) and coming off on the mirror.

 Catch ya later,
 Jody.
 Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
 http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
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Re: Either myself or MX not so wonderful

2002-01-05 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

I load the same way, but I suggest winding until both sprockets are engaged
before closing the back. The film is far less likely to slp off if you do
that.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Cotty [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Pentax List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 1:46 PM
Subject: Re: Either myself or MX not so wonderful


 I'm sure I've checked the rewind knob at the beginning but don't recall
 doing it later. Is it possible for film to slip from take-up spool during
 shooting? How deep should I push the leader between the pins? Or maybe is
it
 the camera fault? I did some tests with an old film today and it seems to
 work OK.

 Hi Maciej,

 It's easily done.

 Everyone loads film in their own way. You either start with the cassette
 in the recess on the left and then load the take-up spool, or start with
 loading the take-up spool, then slot the cassette in.

 I do it like this:

 I slot about 2 or 3 cm of film into the needles on the take-up spool,
 then drag the cassette over to the feed chamber, locating the
 perforations onto the roller as I go. Next, I wind on one frame with the
 back still open. This way I can see that the film is advancing properly.
 Only then do I close the back and tighten the rewind knob slightly - then
 one can see it go round during film advance (another confidence boost).
 The reason I do it this way? I can load the film with just one hand, my
 left, if necessary.

 Hope this helps.

 Cheers,

 Cotty

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Re: how to light a room?

2002-01-05 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Ceiling bounced flash? The problem is I don't know a simple way to light an
interior like that especially when the floor is the main subject. I would
use several big strobes, but that is probably not an option for you. For
dramatic effect you could put high wattage bulbs in all the fixtures, but
the floor would still be rather dark.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Dan Scott [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 12:52 PM
Subject: how to light a room?


 I took some photos to show off our new floors, but the lighting pretty
much
 sucks.

 http://homepage.mac.com/dkscott/PhotoAlbum2.html

 I used an AF-500FTZ mounted on my ZX-5n, bouncing the light off the
ceiling.

 I can take the flash off the camera, but I'm not a flash person, so I'm
not
 sure what else to do. Anyone have any suggestions on using the combo I
 have, ZX-5n's on camera flash and the AF-500FTZ, to re-do these shots a
 little less amateurishly?

 Thanks,
 Dan Scott
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Re: Loading Film in LX [was: Didya miss me?]

2002-01-05 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Now, there is my arguement abainst automatic cameras in a nutshell.

If your camera is manual only you can not forget to turn it back to auto.
And, you know you rather than the camera have to set the exposure. Setting a
compensation dial is more of a hassle than just clicking open or closesd a
stop or so, and you don't forget to put it back to normal because the next
shot you are going to change the exposure anyway. If the lighting is steady
you can take a general reading and just shoot away until the light changes,
the camera will not change the exposure because the is something dark or
something light in the frame, so you get more consistant exposures.

Same wiht AF, if you have to focus you do it, if you leave it to the camera
it may be shut off or it may focus on the wrong thing. Also, zone focus is
far, far faster than AF for those crithcal shots.

The thing that I have found is that when I use an auto camera, I become
dependent on it and forget to compensate for its limitations. That is in my
experience a very real human limitation.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Fred [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 10:06 AM
Subject: Loading Film in LX [was: Didya miss me?]


  Hi, set the LX to 1/2000`s when putting in film. VERY IMPORTANT:
  remember to set it back to what you want after you`re done.

 I would add just a little suggestion of my own to your suggestion,
 Steve:

 I tend to keep my LX's in the Auto shutter dial position (for
 aperture-preferred autoexposure mode) for most (probably 90%) of my
 shooting, and only switch to manual as a deliberate action for a
 particular shooting situation.  One disadvantage of the Auto
 position is that one can't load film with the shutter dial set to
 Auto, since (if light is being blocked from entering the body) the
 LX will just hold the shutter open indefinitely (or so it would
 seem).

 Now, for me, the problem is that, if I use 1/2000 for loading film,
 I potentially can (easily) forget to put the shutter dial back on
 Auto (and indeed, in a few senior moments, I have literally done
 just that, ruining some exposures for a few frames until I noticed
 my blatant stupidity). Your VERY IMPORTANT warning, Steve is very
 a good one to make.

 I now (and it's even become automatic with me, having done this for
 a while) set the shutter speed to 1/60, 1/30, or 1/15 (not critical)
 for loading film.  The advantage of this is that the shutter sound
 at slower speeds is distinctive, and, if I forget to put the shutter
 dial back on Auto, my error of omission is audibly obvious with my
 very first mistaken exposure.  (The disadvantage of doing this is
 that it is a little more of a nuisance to rotate the shutter dial
 all the way to some slow speed and back, compared to using 1/2000,
 which is only one click away from Auto.)

 By the way, the necessity of not leaving the shutter dial at 1/2000
 (instead of resetting to Auto) is evident whether one is using flash
 or not.  For natural light, 1/2000 is usually not going to be a
 suitable speed just by luck, although this depends on the film
 speed, aperture, and lighting, of course.  Then, the problem with
 using flash at 1/2000 is that (unlike when properly set to Auto or
 X) there is no flash sync set, so one doesn't even have a prayer of
 getting a lucky exposure.  (And, unfortunately, I can speak from
 experience on both of these situations - g.)

 The Super Program and Super A, with their automatic loading speed of
 1/1000, are more idiot-proof for nincompoops like me - g.

 Fred
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Re: Scanning Terminology Questions

2002-01-05 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Bit depth is how many tints of color are available. With 8 bits per color
you are limited to 256 tints. More is better.

Density range is how much of a scale for pure white to pure black can be
recorded on an scale of 0=white to 4=black. Dynamic range is the difference
between the two numbers. You could compare it to the contrast grade of your
B$W paper.

The thing to be aware of is advertising people lie, or at least hedge the
truth a bit which is why two scanners that seem to have the same specs can
have different performance.
Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 5:21 PM
Subject: Re: Scanning Terminology Questions


 Thanks for everyone trying to explain this to me.  I do not understand
 any of the responses.  Could someone please explain this to me like I
 was a child, and perhaps avoid jargon, acronyms, and the like.  I'm
 really ignorant about this and I'd like to buy a scanner this year.  But
 I'm afraid that, if I don't understand even the most rudimentary
 information, I'll end up with the wrong scanner.  Describing bit depth
 as color depth, for example, doesn't help me.  I'm having the same
 problem with this as I have with understanding electricity, and all the
 analogies people give me about garden hoses and water pressure don't
 seem to make sense.

 What is bit depth and, perhaps even more important, what's important
 about it?


 Jostein wrote:

  I think the bit depth means how big a binary number the scanner use
  to describe a colour or shades of gray. So bigger numbers mean more
  colours.

 Fritz wrote:

  Bit depth, is color depth I assume. 24 bits, that is 8 bits per color
  channel, is what you need, but before you start to tweak the exposure
and
  color and curves etc, it is better to have more then that, so your end
  result looks better. After that you can go back to 24 bits. A scanner
might
  do 30 bits or 36 or so, but if it's more then 24 Windows will use 48 bit
as
  the next step. So it doubles your file sizes.

 Steve wrote:

  Bit depth is the number of bits used to describe the color of a pixel...
So
  4-bit gives you 16 possible colors for the pixel, 8-bit is 256 color,
etc...

 Doug wrote:

  Be aware that some people will name the same color depth differently.
  For example, True Color generally refers to representation with
  twenty-four total bits of color information, eight bits each for red,
  green, and blue.  Some people call True Color 24-bit color and others
  call it 8-bit color.

 --
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: Scanning Terminology Questions

2002-01-05 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

You know what? Even if I was mistaken, you would still be an ass for calling
me a liar. However, I am not mistaken, you just can not read.

256 tints of Red x 256 tints of Blue x 256 tints of Green give  16.7M tints
of color. I used the term tints instead of shades because that is a more
accurate color concept.

Dmax is not exactly the same as Dynamic range, it ignores the min-white and
just tells you what the max-black that can be recorded is.

Furthermore, Shel asked that this all be explained in simple terms ignoring
the technical details. I tried to do that. I may not have succeeded, but
you, besides only being half informed, did not even try.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: J. C. O'Connell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 8:29 PM
Subject: RE: Scanning Terminology Questions


  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Tom Rittenhouse
  Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 7:40 PM
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: Re: Scanning Terminology Questions
 
 
  Bit depth is how many tints of color are available. With 8 bits per
color
  you are limited to 256 tints. More is better.

 This is the second person to make this false statement so it
 needs correction REAL FAST. With 8 bits per color you do not
 have 256 colors, you have 256 CUBED colors which is 16.7
 MILLION colors, quite a difference.


 
  Density range is how much of a scale for pure white to pure black can be
  recorded on an scale of 0=white to 4=black. Dynamic range is the
  difference
  between the two numbers. You could compare it to the contrast
  grade of your
  B$W paper.
 
 
 Another falsehood. Density range (Dmax) is the ratio between the
 lightest recorded intenity and the darkest recorded intensity.
 The number is the exponent using base 10. Thus if Dmax is 1,
 the range is 10:1 , if Dmax is 2, the range is 100:1, and
 if the Dmax is 3, the range is 1000:1, and so on. The higher
 the dmax the better on a scanner as it will be able to capure
 a much wider range of shades accurately.

 JCO
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Re: Can you believe this?

2002-01-03 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Yes, I can, Bill. If you think that is high, price the Hasslebald 70mm bulk
loader.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Bill Owens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 10:00 AM
Subject: Can you believe this?


 http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1315937391

 Bill, KG4LOV
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: Digital printing questions

2002-01-03 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

I think the line that says, Continuous tone not dithering indicates you
can not compare it to an inkjet. Dithering is just another way of saying
halftoning.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Rob Studdert [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 7:58 AM
Subject: Re: Digital printing questions


 On 3 Jan 2002 at 6:27, Paul Stenquist wrote:

  Hi Bill,
  The file size does not have to be a divisor of the printer output
  rating. It doesn't matter a hoot. Your printer is of the same general
  type as mine, and your output should be optimum if your picture file is
  in the neighborhood of 550ppi.

 Did you check the link that Gerald provided?

 http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRINT/P400/P400A.HTM

 Granted it's not specifically related to the Epson drivers but I would
guess
 that it still has relevance.

 Cheers,
 Rob Studdert
 HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
 Tel +61-2-9554-4110
 UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: inported film?

2002-01-03 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Actually, Tom, sometimes it is made in the US, shipped overseas, then
shipped back. All that extra shipping is what makes it so cheap. You, of
course, realize that if you take pictures that have english text in them
with film intended for, say, the french market all the text will come out in
french.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: tom [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 6:56 PM
Subject: Re: inported film?


 C or B Waters wrote:
 
  After the where do you buy film? poll, I'm looking at the BH site at
  different films.  Is there any reason not to go for the imported film.
Same
  film?  It's less expensive.
  What gives?

 It's made in a foreign factory and shipped to the US. This makes some
 people uptight - the concern is that shipping conditions might not be
 optimal, or the film might be a bit older than otherwise.

 A few months ago I bought some Gold 100 from B+H...it was made in
 Turkey. Looked fine to me, but I will admit I only use US-made Portra
 for weddings.

 tv
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Re: Digital printing questions

2002-01-03 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Well, actually, I have never heard that it is all that importand to use a
devisor of the printer dpi, what is reported to maintain the best image
quality is resampling on a devisor. Like if you scanned at 2400 dpi and you
need to reduce the size of the image resample at 1200, 800, or 600, etc.
That is supposed to maintain edge sharpness, etc. the best. On the other
hand resampling at odd vailues is supposed to reduce artifacts, etc. Etc:-)

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Paul Stenquist [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 8:51 PM
Subject: Re: Digital printing questions


 I don't use a divisor, and I've never encountered a moire pattern. I have
 tried using a divisor, but I eventually learned that it accomplished
 nothing. I've made close to a thousand hi-res prints. I'm sure you've made
 more Aaron, but have you worked extensively without a divisor? In order to
 achieve the divisor at a given print size, you have to resample the image.
 That is perhaps the most damaging thing one can do. The printer resolution
 numbers don't correspond in any way to the ppi counts of digital files.
 Congratulations on the 75/2.8 purchase. I anxiously await your
 appraisal. I picked up a late model 105/2.4 off ebay to add to my 150/2.8.
 I think the 55/4 is my next buy, but I'd also like the 75. KEH doesn't
 have it yet, or at least they don't list it on their website. Do you want
 to whisper how much you paid for it? :-)
 Paul
 Aaron Reynolds wrote:

  The reason one uses a divisor of the printer's resolution is to avoid
  moire patterns in finely detailed objects.  Nothing like having a plaid
  shirt with a different pattern running through it...
 
  -Aaron
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Re: The Wonderful MX

2002-01-03 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

The MX is my second most favorite camera in the world. Too bad I don't have
one. Sigh!

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Juan J. Buhler [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Pentax List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 5:01 PM
Subject: Re: The Wonderful MX


 Good, that's more like the PDML!

 Some of you might remember a post I made months ago, after some MX
 bashing happened here (Bizarro PDML or something like that was the
 subject.)  After that, Shel and I got together one day, and my MX
 changed the impression he had of them, given by some poorly advancing
 body he once had owned.

 The rest is history :-)

 BTW, my second MX, which I got lately, doesn't feel quite as nice
 when winding. Nothing I cannot live with, anyway.

 j


 On Thu, 3 Jan 2002, Shel Belinkoff wrote:

  A few weeks ago I bought a very nice MX from Daphne and have used it a
  few times.  Man, do I like that camera.  It's especially nice when
  wearing a wide angle lens, like the K28/3.5, or the K35/3.5.  It's a
  small enough combination to fit easily into the Domke F-803 satchel, or
  into a large pocket in a jacket or vest.  And not needing batteries is a
  real plus. If you haven't been MX enabled, it's something you might
  think about.
  --
  Shel Belinkoff
  mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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  go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
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 --
 --
-
  Juan J. Buhler | Sr. FX Animator @ PDI | Photos at http://www.jbuhler.com
 --
-
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Re: 43mm Limited on Ebay...

2002-01-01 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Why should you appologise? Actually, I like to think that we at least have a
chance to get it cheaper off of ebay than if we gave you an honest price for
it grin. No matter what one does, someone is going to not like it.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Bob Poe [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 9:35 AM
Subject: Re: 43mm Limited on Ebay...


 As the seller of this lens, I assure you that there
 was no communicationbetween gabriel and myself...etc,
 etc...
 I have been away from the list for a couple of weeks,
 so when I got back and read the posts concerning the
 availability of future ebay auction items prior to
 their being listed, I felt compelled to apologize for
 not posting them here first.  However, the time
 constraints involving my holiday travels away from the
 computer, and the necessity for scheduling the items
 listing on ebay so that I could tend-the-ebay-garden
 didn't leave me any room to offer them to this list
 first, as I have done in the past, if you will
 remember the 105K lens back in Oct.
 So, again I apologize for not being more thoughtful
 and fully recognize the error of my ways, and hereby
 humbly swear on my LX that it will never happen again.
 Happy New Year!
 Bob
 --- gabriel bovino [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:
  Sorry people...
 
  I wasn't trying to sell my own lens here or help out
  a friend...  it was
  just an FYI in case someone was looking for a 43
  limited and could not find
  it through the search engine on EBay since I search
  using Pentax FA
  tuples.
 
  Happy 2002
 
  Gabe
 
  - Original Message -
  From: gabriel bovino
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 11:30 PM
  Subject: 43mm Limited on Ebay...
 
 
  
 
 http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1315747702
  
   Gabe
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 =
 What boots up must come down.
 Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
 http://greetings.yahoo.com
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HAPPY

2002-01-01 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

NEW YEAR

Ciao,
graywolf
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Re: Questions for Beseler 23CII Users

2002-01-01 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

If you think about it for a moment, Shel, it is obvious that the diameter of
the circle of illumination needs to be equal to the diagonal of the
negative. Going back to HS geometry, the sum of the square of the two sides
is equal to the square of the hypotenuse.  I could have used trig, but the
battery's dead in my scientific calculator and I couldn't find my side rule.
Come to think of it I haven't seen that slide rule since the sixties grin.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 11:16 AM
Subject: Re: Questions for Beseler 23CII Users


 Hi Tom,

 How did you arrive at this conclusion?  What's the math behind it?
 Might be worthwhile to know.

 Tom Rittenhouse wrote:
 
  My calculator says a 9x9 negative requires a 12.8cm diameter coverage. I
  don't believe a their comdenser head 23C can cover that. A 6x9 image
requirs
  10.8, so to cover 9x9 the light source needs to be almost an inch bigger
  than to cover 6x9.

 --
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: Questions for Beseler 23CII Users

2002-01-01 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

We'll have to talk about speed graphics sometime, Paul. We seem to be the
only ones who still use them. Do you use yours as a press camera, or as a
view camera?

The reason the old Beselers sell for more than the old Omegas is because the
accessories are interchangeable with the new ones. The Omegas have changed
design details several times. Not a major problem if you get the accessories
with the enlarger, but if you get them separately you need to make sure you
have the right ones for your particular model Omega.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Paul Stenquist [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 12:45 PM
Subject: Re: Questions for Beseler 23CII Users


 Thanks Tom. I think my next enlarger should be capable of 4x5, since I
 occasionally shoot with my old Speed Graphic, and I want a cold light
head.
 I've been spoiled ever since I put a Zone VI cold light head on my
 little Omega
 B-22. Rich. Nice. I like it.
 I might just go with another Omega.  If I'm going to
 change the head, I suppose it doesn't much matter what brand of enlarger I
 use, as long as the column is adequately stiff. And the prices on the
 Besselers are somewhat steep. The Omega B-22 column is superb for a small
 enlarger with a single column. I don't know how rigid the larger Omega
 models are. In any case, my enlarger table is anchored in concrete.
Nothing
 moves, so I don't believe I have to worry much about how well it handles
vibration.
 Paul

 Tom Rittenhouse wrote:

  No, for 4x5 you need the 45M series, or the 45V series. Interestingly
there
  is an 8x10 cold light head available for the 45 Beselers. There also
used to
  be a CB7 model which did 5x7. BTW, all of these can be used with
negatives
  as small as Minox (8mm x 11mm).
 
  Ciao,
  graywolf
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  - Original Message -
  From: Paul Stenquist [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 9:43 AM
  Subject: Re: Questions for Beseler 23CII Users
 
   Hi Shel,
   I can't answer your question, but I have a question of my own: Will
the
   23CII do 4x5? I assume it will do 6x7. I've seen a couple on ebay, but
the
   sellers don't specify.
   Paul
  
   Shel Belinkoff wrote:
  
I just picked up a fine Beseler 23CII condenser enlarger to
complement
the dichro head model that I have.  There's an adjustment on it that
allows the condenser to be moved up and down relative to the
negative,
and it's marked for different formats - 8/16/35mms and 110; 2*x2*,
etc.
Essentially it's self explanatory, but I do have a question: if a
longer
lens, such as an 80mm is used instead of a normal 50mm lens for 35mm
work, should the condenser be moved to the 2*x2* position?
   
There's a drawer above the condenser that looks like it's for VC
filters, or for heat absorbing glass.  Is that correct, or is there
another purpose for that drawer?
   
Man, it's a neat machine!
--
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: Winners (PDML 2001 Printer Challenge)

2002-01-01 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

In awarding the prizes aesthetics were considered. They were not for rating
the printers. So, because they won it does not mean other printers did not
print every bit as well, or even better.

No, there were no dye subs. There was only one HP, and the one Xerox, the
rest were Epsons and Canons. Why don't you send an example from each of your
printers so I can add them to the ratings (see 2002 Printer Challenge post)?

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Gerald Cermak [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 2:56 PM
Subject: RE: Winners (PDML 2001 Printer Challenge)


 Can we have a list of losing printers so we can know what the winners'
 competition was like?

 Were there any dye sub printers in the mix?

 My wife's Epson 1270 does a great job for inkjet (much better than my
 Canon BJC-5100), but even she agrees my (our) P-400's output is truly
 amazing compared to the 1270.

 Gerald


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Tom Rittenhouse
 Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 11:27 PM
 To: Pentax Discussion Malling List
 Subject: Winners (PDML 2001 Printer Challenge)


 Here are the winners of  the PDML 2001 Printer Challenge.

 For those who have not been following this Challenge, it all started
 when I
 told someone on the list  I had never seen an inkjet print that I though
 matched a photographic print. He said I had not seen one of his. I
 replied,
 send me one. He didn't, but Aaron said everybody should send me one. And
 I
 said if they do I will post a list of printer ratings based on those
 prints.
 To prime the pump, I said I would confer upon the senders best three
 prints,
 based on my opinion, the title of PDML 2001 Master Digital Printer. I
 mentioned this to the area Pentax Rep and he offered to donate some
 Pentax
 memorabilia as prizes.

 So there are basically two phases to this challenge.

 One, a compilation of printer ratings based upon prints sent to me by
 list
 members. The rating for a given printer is based upon the best print I
 have
 received that was printed on that particular model printer. I will give
 the
 current ratings in another post. This list of rating is an ongoing thing
 and
 I will post them monthly.

 Two, this contest, based upon my purely subjective rating of the prints
 I
 have received. The winner's have been selected from those who had sent
 me
 prints postmarked on or before December 15, 2001, and were made from the
 submitter's original photos. Names of the prints have been assigned by
 me
 for my convenience. Prizes will be mailed about the end of the week.

 These three winners may add the sig line 2001 PDML Master Digital
 Printer
 to their PDML posts. You won it, flaunt it.

 So here are the WINNERS!  (Drum roll please, maestro).


 
 -
 Third Prize (Winner of the Pentax PMA Lapel Pin featuring the MZ-S).
 Kathy Leickly --Autumn Trees

 Xerox Tektronix Phaser 850. No details

 Because I like it! Kathy sent three identical photos, one done on an HP
 Deskjet 722C, two done on the Xerox (one on plain paper, one on glossy
 photo
 paper). My selection for third place is the one done on the glossy photo
 paper with the Xerox. The Phaser printers are what Tektronics used to
 call
 solid state laser printers that use a block of toner instead of powder.
 Kathy says he blocks are wax like. The resulting print has a kind of oil
 painting like look to it. Strangely the print on plain paper is shinier


 
 -
 Second Prize (winner of the Leather Pentax Keycase).
 Paul Stenquist --Maple Leaf

 Epson Photo 1200,  printed from a 4800dpi scan using an Agfa Duoscan
 2500 T
 from a transparency taken with a Pentax LX and a Vivitar Series 1 90/2.5
 Macro.

 Paul's print is on Ilford Inkjet Matte Fine Art Paper. The maple leaf
 seems
 to glow. This paper hides printer defects, but give an almost painting
 like
 print. Certainly the print is worthy of hanging on the wall.


 
 --
 Grand Prize (winner of the Pentax Swiss Army Knife).
 Mike Nosal  --Column

 Epson 1270,  printed at 480dpi, from a scan made on an Imacon Flextight
 scanner. Taken with his Pentax ZX-7, and a F 80-200 lens.

 Mikes print of the details of a column is an example of a print that
 will
 show every defect of the printer. Large areas of monotone show any sign
 of
 banning or unevenness. The column is about 90% white which will clearly
 show
 up any halftoning. It shows very little of any of those problems. What
 it
 does show is that it is worthwhile to use a higher res image than is
 usually
 claimed to be optimum. Mikes superb print shows that today's inkjet
 printer
 can do very high quality work.

 Ciao,
 graywolf
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 -
 This message is from the Pentax

2002 Printer Challenge (RATINGS)

2002-01-01 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

If your printer is not on this list, or you think you can do better, please
send me a print so I can add it to the ratings (address at end of post).

Even prints from your older printer are useful.. I, for one, would like to
know if better quality is possible from my existing printer than I am
getting. I would bet that others of you would like to know that also.

Please use the word challenge in your posts on this subject so it will be
sorted into the appropriate folder where I won't miss it.

Maybe we can come up with prizes for 2002 (our friendly Pentax Rep has
indicated and interest in seeing this challenge continue), maybe not; but
many of you have indicated that you think these ratings are useful. Without
your participation there can be no ratings. If we do have prizes same rules
will apply: has to be your original photo, and has to be printed by you to
be considered for a prize. All prints received will be used in rating
printers. Please do not send photo prints, because I don't want to have to
return them.


PRINTER RATINGS: (only the highest rating for a given printer is listed,
based on the assumption that you want to know what the hardware is capable
of ) :

Canon BJC-620.C-  (A poor thing, but my own)
Canon S800F
Epson PhotoD
Epson Photo EXE+
Epson Photo 1270F
Epson Photo 1200F
Epson C-80E
Xerox Tectonics Phaser 850E
HP 722CE
Fuji Frontiera. (A ringer submitted by Pentax Rep. Not rated)


Some observations:

It should be noted that as far as I know, the Epson 800, 870, 890 all use
the same technology as the 1200 series so should have similar performance.

From looking at the prints I have been sent, I can say that high-res
down-sampled images make better prints than lower res images not re-sampled.

Six color printers are far and away better photo printers than 4 color
printers.

Paper makes a very significant difference in the final appearance of the
print.

Meaning of ratings:
A. Awful (Why did they bother to send this.)
B. Better. (Comparable to a newspaper color photo. Common digital printer
faults like banding clearly visible)
C. Cool (A very nice print, but not photographic in appearance. Some banding
visible. Comparable to a magazine photo.)
D. Delightful (Nearly photographic quality. Visible halftoning. Slight
banding Comparable to a glossy magazine photo.)
E. Excellent (Equal to a mini-lab print. No visible banding. No
halftoning visible to the naked eye.)
F. Fantastic (Equal to a excellent machine print. No halftoning
visible with a 4x loupe.)
G. Gorgeous (Equal to a custom print)
H. Heartwarming. (Equal to a Salon Print)
I. Ilfordchrome. (Equal to a custom cibachrome print).

In the interest of accuracy, based upon being shown some custom cibachromes
by a fine art photographer, I have modified the descriptions for the ratings
of F and above. The submitter's have shown me I set my sights too low to
start.

Ciao,
graywolf







Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


PDML Challenge
c/o Tom Rittenhouse
4018 Hiddenbrook Dr.
Charlotte, NC 28205
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Re: Questions for Beseler 23CII Users

2002-01-01 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

'Cept that don't work with a Beseler condenser head. The Beseler moves the
negative stage up and down the cone of light until it just covers the
negative area. The enlarger works pretty well if you have the neg higher up
than optimum but you lose some light intensity, if the neg is to lower it
won't have enough coverage.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: William Robb [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 2:21 PM
Subject: Re: Questions for Beseler 23CII Users


 - Original Message -
 From: Shel Belinkoff
 Subject: Re: Questions for Beseler 23CII Users


  OK, I understand the math ... but what is the diffuser?  How
 do I
  measure it?  Where do I find it?

 On a colour head, the diffuser is the white plastic or opal
 glass that sits just above the negative carrier. Condensor
 heads, by definition don't have diffuser discs, but you can
 measure the diameter of the bottom condensor to get an
 approximation of the coverage the light source is capable of.
 William Robb
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Re: Web Page Development

2002-01-01 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Actually basic HTML is not hard to learn. You don't get all those wonderful
features that you get with a web page design program tough. You know, the
ones that make the page almost impossible to read g

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: aimcompute [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Pentax Discuss [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 6:02 PM
Subject: Web Page Development


 Hi Gang,

 I know there's been some discussion quite recently about HTML editors and
 web page development tools,  but I've been paying little attention.  I've
 been using FrontPage 2000 and am ABSOLUTELY FED UP with it.

 Among other things, when using shared borders and saving a file, it is
very
 easy to lose contents that have been present for days.

 Can someone give me the recommendations for editors.  Are there any free
 ones out there that have a good amount of power?

 Since I'm a developer, I have no real desire to now code my own HTML as
 well.

 Thanks,

 Tom C.
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Re: Questions for Beseler 23CII Users

2001-12-31 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

I think Bill meant 6x9. The 23C series are 2-1/4 x 3-1/4 enlargers.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: Questions for Beseler 23CII Users


 Hi Paul ...

 Bill Robb mentioned that the 23CII (and other 23C enlargers) will work
 with negs up to 9x9.  However, Beseler does not make a negative carrier
 for that size, and I don't believe there's a film format in that size,
 either.  Anyway, it should be able to do 9x9 given a format and a
 negative carrier.

 Here's where you can find some more information about what's available
 for the 23C-series:

 http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/darkroom/beseler-c2.pdf

 Paul Stenquist wrote:

  I can't answer your question, but I have a question of my own: Will the
  23CII do 4x5? I assume it will do 6x7. I've seen a couple on ebay, but
the
  sellers don't specify.

 --
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: Questions for Beseler 23CII Users

2001-12-31 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

No, for 4x5 you need the 45M series, or the 45V series. Interestingly there
is an 8x10 cold light head available for the 45 Beselers. There also used to
be a CB7 model which did 5x7. BTW, all of these can be used with negatives
as small as Minox (8mm x 11mm).

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Paul Stenquist [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 9:43 AM
Subject: Re: Questions for Beseler 23CII Users


 Hi Shel,
 I can't answer your question, but I have a question of my own: Will the
 23CII do 4x5? I assume it will do 6x7. I've seen a couple on ebay, but the
 sellers don't specify.
 Paul

 Shel Belinkoff wrote:

  I just picked up a fine Beseler 23CII condenser enlarger to complement
  the dichro head model that I have.  There's an adjustment on it that
  allows the condenser to be moved up and down relative to the negative,
  and it's marked for different formats - 8/16/35mms and 110; 2*x2*, etc.
  Essentially it's self explanatory, but I do have a question: if a longer
  lens, such as an 80mm is used instead of a normal 50mm lens for 35mm
  work, should the condenser be moved to the 2*x2* position?
 
  There's a drawer above the condenser that looks like it's for VC
  filters, or for heat absorbing glass.  Is that correct, or is there
  another purpose for that drawer?
 
  Man, it's a neat machine!
  --
  Shel Belinkoff
  mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: realy ot

2001-12-31 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Depends on what you are trying to do. Any of the spread sheets will generate
such a chart from data. If you are primarily wanting to make charts for
display Power Point does a nice job though there are others that will work
as well. If you have MS Office you already have Excel and Power Point.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: HARRY BAUGHMAN [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: pentax [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 6:42 PM
Subject: realy ot


 since every one on the list has a computer i would like to ask a question.
 what is a good program to create a column and line type chart?
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Re: Winners (PDML 2001 Printer Challenge)

2001-12-31 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

I left that out? Canon Photo Pro Glossy.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Steve Larson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 7:21 AM
Subject: Re: Winners (PDML 2001 Printer Challenge)


 Tom, nice work on the Challenge. What kind of paper did the
 grand prize winner Mike Nosal use? Congratulations to the
 winners!
 Steve Larson
 Redondo Beach, California
 - Original Message -
 From: Tom Rittenhouse [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Pentax Discussion Malling List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 11:26 PM
 Subject: Winners (PDML 2001 Printer Challenge)


  Here are the winners of  the PDML 2001 Printer Challenge.
 
  For those who have not been following this Challenge, it all started
when
 I
  told someone on the list  I had never seen an inkjet print that I though
  matched a photographic print. He said I had not seen one of his. I
 replied,
  send me one. He didn't, but Aaron said everybody should send me one. And
I
  said if they do I will post a list of printer ratings based on those
 prints.
  To prime the pump, I said I would confer upon the senders best three
 prints,
  based on my opinion, the title of PDML 2001 Master Digital Printer. I
  mentioned this to the area Pentax Rep and he offered to donate some
Pentax
  memorabilia as prizes.
 
  So there are basically two phases to this challenge.
 
  One, a compilation of printer ratings based upon prints sent to me by
list
  members. The rating for a given printer is based upon the best print I
 have
  received that was printed on that particular model printer. I will give
 the
  current ratings in another post. This list of rating is an ongoing thing
 and
  I will post them monthly.
 
  Two, this contest, based upon my purely subjective rating of the prints
I
  have received. The winner's have been selected from those who had sent
me
  prints postmarked on or before December 15, 2001, and were made from the
  submitter's original photos. Names of the prints have been assigned by
me
  for my convenience. Prizes will be mailed about the end of the week.
 
  These three winners may add the sig line 2001 PDML Master Digital
 Printer
  to their PDML posts. You won it, flaunt it.
 
  So here are the WINNERS!  (Drum roll please, maestro).
 
 

 -
  Third Prize (Winner of the Pentax PMA Lapel Pin featuring the MZ-S).
  Kathy Leickly --Autumn Trees
 
  Xerox Tektronix Phaser 850. No details
 
  Because I like it! Kathy sent three identical photos, one done on an HP
  Deskjet 722C, two done on the Xerox (one on plain paper, one on glossy
 photo
  paper). My selection for third place is the one done on the glossy photo
  paper with the Xerox. The Phaser printers are what Tektronics used to
call
  solid state laser printers that use a block of toner instead of powder.
  Kathy says he blocks are wax like. The resulting print has a kind of oil
  painting like look to it. Strangely the print on plain paper is shinier
 
 

 -
  Second Prize (winner of the Leather Pentax Keycase).
  Paul Stenquist --Maple Leaf
 
  Epson Photo 1200,  printed from a 4800dpi scan using an Agfa Duoscan
2500
 T
  from a transparency taken with a Pentax LX and a Vivitar Series 1 90/2.5
  Macro.
 
  Paul's print is on Ilford Inkjet Matte Fine Art Paper. The maple leaf
 seems
  to glow. This paper hides printer defects, but give an almost painting
 like
  print. Certainly the print is worthy of hanging on the wall.
 
 

 --
  Grand Prize (winner of the Pentax Swiss Army Knife).
  Mike Nosal  --Column
 
  Epson 1270,  printed at 480dpi, from a scan made on an Imacon Flextight
  scanner. Taken with his Pentax ZX-7, and a F 80-200 lens.
 
  Mikes print of the details of a column is an example of a print that
will
  show every defect of the printer. Large areas of monotone show any sign
of
  banning or unevenness. The column is about 90% white which will clearly
 show
  up any halftoning. It shows very little of any of those problems. What
it
  does show is that it is worthwhile to use a higher res image than is
 usually
  claimed to be optimum. Mikes superb print shows that today's inkjet
 printer
  can do very high quality work.
 
  Ciao,
  graywolf
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  -
  This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
  go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
  visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
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Re: Winners (PDML 2001 Printer Challenge)

2001-12-31 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Naw, Dave, the Canon is fine. In fact, except for the Mike's Grand Prize
winner which was the best overall quality as well,  I selected the prints
that were most strking to me, ones I would like to hang on MY wall.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: David Brooks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 8:45 AM
Subject: Re: Winners (PDML 2001 Printer Challenge)


 As a participant in the Challange,let me say
 congradulations to the 3 winners.My S800 was holding
 its own until those damn Epsons showed up(just kidding)
 Good to see what options are out there should i decide to
 switch printers.
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Re: More on cleaning slides/negatives

2001-12-30 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

I would bet it is pretty dry in your house. That causes a lot of static on
the slide that holds the dust in place like a magnet. My experience is that
when the humidity is 60% or so the dust pretty much blows off with
compressed air. Short of humidifying the house you might try one of those
anti-static gizmos, there used to be several on the market.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Christian Skofteland [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 4:15 PM
Subject: More on cleaning slides/negatives


 Ok, I know we've covered this in the past but I'm going to ask again (and
 pay attention to the answers this time!):

 How the #$!%*(^*%$ do you get all the dust off your slides or negatives
 before you scan them?

 I've been trying to catch up on scanning slides with my new/used HP
 PhotoSmart scanner.   I've been using compressed air and anti-static wipes
 on both the slides and the scanner itself but I'm still frustrated with
all
 the crap that shows up on the final scan.

 Any help is greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance.

 Christian Skofteland
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Winners (PDML 2001 Printer Challenge)

2001-12-30 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Here are the winners of  the PDML 2001 Printer Challenge.

For those who have not been following this Challenge, it all started when I
told someone on the list  I had never seen an inkjet print that I though
matched a photographic print. He said I had not seen one of his. I replied,
send me one. He didn't, but Aaron said everybody should send me one. And I
said if they do I will post a list of printer ratings based on those prints.
To prime the pump, I said I would confer upon the senders best three prints,
based on my opinion, the title of PDML 2001 Master Digital Printer. I
mentioned this to the area Pentax Rep and he offered to donate some Pentax
memorabilia as prizes.

So there are basically two phases to this challenge.

One, a compilation of printer ratings based upon prints sent to me by list
members. The rating for a given printer is based upon the best print I have
received that was printed on that particular model printer. I will give the
current ratings in another post. This list of rating is an ongoing thing and
I will post them monthly.

Two, this contest, based upon my purely subjective rating of the prints I
have received. The winner's have been selected from those who had sent me
prints postmarked on or before December 15, 2001, and were made from the
submitter's original photos. Names of the prints have been assigned by me
for my convenience. Prizes will be mailed about the end of the week.

These three winners may add the sig line 2001 PDML Master Digital Printer
to their PDML posts. You won it, flaunt it.

So here are the WINNERS!  (Drum roll please, maestro).


-
Third Prize (Winner of the Pentax PMA Lapel Pin featuring the MZ-S).
Kathy Leickly --Autumn Trees

Xerox Tektronix Phaser 850. No details

Because I like it! Kathy sent three identical photos, one done on an HP
Deskjet 722C, two done on the Xerox (one on plain paper, one on glossy photo
paper). My selection for third place is the one done on the glossy photo
paper with the Xerox. The Phaser printers are what Tektronics used to call
solid state laser printers that use a block of toner instead of powder.
Kathy says he blocks are wax like. The resulting print has a kind of oil
painting like look to it. Strangely the print on plain paper is shinier


-
Second Prize (winner of the Leather Pentax Keycase).
Paul Stenquist --Maple Leaf

Epson Photo 1200,  printed from a 4800dpi scan using an Agfa Duoscan 2500 T
from a transparency taken with a Pentax LX and a Vivitar Series 1 90/2.5
Macro.

Paul's print is on Ilford Inkjet Matte Fine Art Paper. The maple leaf seems
to glow. This paper hides printer defects, but give an almost painting like
print. Certainly the print is worthy of hanging on the wall.


--
Grand Prize (winner of the Pentax Swiss Army Knife).
Mike Nosal  --Column

Epson 1270,  printed at 480dpi, from a scan made on an Imacon Flextight
scanner. Taken with his Pentax ZX-7, and a F 80-200 lens.

Mikes print of the details of a column is an example of a print that will
show every defect of the printer. Large areas of monotone show any sign of
banning or unevenness. The column is about 90% white which will clearly show
up any halftoning. It shows very little of any of those problems. What it
does show is that it is worthwhile to use a higher res image than is usually
claimed to be optimum. Mikes superb print shows that today's inkjet printer
can do very high quality work.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: OT Work in progress

2001-12-29 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Not bad at all. You're observations are pretty much correct. You can
consider digital as a direct positive type of media. There is a reason the
people who specialize in this sort of thing (jewelry) use light tents and
matte spray.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Rob Studdert [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2001 10:29 PM
Subject: OT Work in progress


 Hi Team,

 I just though I might share some of my work in progress. I have been
 experimenting with shooting macro and close-ups of specular objects (gold
 jewellery etc.) and I have come to appreciate what an art this is. I am
now
 experimenting with multiple reflectors and other lighting elements and I
can
 only say I have a lot to learn.

 I am shooting this project digitally (still waiting Pentax) and have found
the
 limits of the equipment. From my recent experience I would suggest that
 shooting digital has a similar feel to slide film in that once the
highlights
 are blown out its all over.

 As it is a digital medium there is no headroom (unlike the negative films
that
 I am used to). So when I set the exposure to provide detail in the
reflections
 I lose my shadow detail, it seems that I have to soften up my lights to
reduce
 the overall contrast. Comments welcome.

 Some examples:

 http://www.home.aone.net.au/audiobias/PC291972m.JPG (141kB)

 http://www.home.aone.net.au/audiobias/PC291979e.JPG (76kB including grubby
 fingerprints)

 Pentax content: the background in the these images is the burgundy
coloured
 velvet Pentax LX bag :-)

 Cheers,Rob Studdert
 HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
 Tel +61-2-9554-4110
 UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: 928 questions

2001-12-29 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

A reliable sorce close to Pentax ;-) provides the following information:

The 928 allows you, in this setting to employ a hyper focal distance focus.
It automatically focuses at 9 feet.  With the lens automatically zoomed to
the 28mm position, you effectively have sharpness from a couple of feet from
the camera to infinity.  I don't know if the aperture selected is a little
smaller as well, but it might be.

The small flower icon indicates 'macro' mode.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

 - Original Message -
 From: MZ3_fella _ [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2001 7:11 AM
 Subject: Re: 928 questions


  - When I press the upper right (focus mode) button three times, the zoom
  goes to 28mm and an icon appers on the LCD which looks like a hand
holding
  the camera. What is this mode for?
 
  It's called the 'Easy-Pic' mode and is meant to be used by someone who
is
  totally unfamiliar with the camera. It effectively makes the 928 a
  wide-angle point-and-shoot camera.
 
  - When I press the upper left (red-eye) button long, the exp.
compensation
  comes up. There is also a small flower icon blinking on the LCD these
  times. What is it for, and how to use it?
 
  I don't remember exactly - if the exp. compensation indicator comes up
 then
  it should be increasing the exposure by 1.5EV for backlight
compensation.
  Usually, the 'flower' icon shows that the camera is ion macro/close-up
 mode.
  It could be that you are setting the close-up mode and the camera is
then
  selecting to use exposure compensation.
 
  - Is there any way to lock the shutter in open position in B mode?
  No
 
 
 
 
  _
  Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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Re: Cosmicar

2001-12-29 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Pentax is using the Cosmicar brand name for their CCTV lenses. They come I
think in C mount. A rather specialized line. I don't know if they at one
time used the name on consumer lenses or not, but certainly not currently.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



 - Original Message -
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2001 7:31 PM
 Subject: Re: Cosmicar


  In a message dated 12/29/2001 7:10:19 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
 
   Just idly surfing e-bay, when I came across a listing for a 80-200
zoom
 of
   the make Cosmicar
   The seller say that this is a Pentax made lens.
   Is this true? If so are there other brand names that Pentax market(ed)
   under?
  
   Wendy
  
 
  I used Keyword to go to the Cosmicar lens page. It is titled
 Cosmcar/Pentax
  and the implication is that they are Pentax manufactured and Cosmicar
 badged.
  Seems like Cosmicar would be a name better applied to an automobile.
 Toyota
  could drop the Prius name and call it a Cosmicar.
 
  Regards,
  Ed M.
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Re: Jumping ship (Was Digital SLR )

2001-12-28 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Funny thing, I feel they should be pushing the the 6MP full frame out the
door for people who need and can afford a camera like that. There are many
who do, mostly full time pros to whom it is just another minor business
expense. And, while they are doing that they should be working fevorishly to
get a D-30 class sibling on the market. But, I have this silly idea that
having the best there is on the market will drive up sales of lower end
products.

But then, Pentax's idea of a lost leader is to leave the 1000 mark off the
shutter speed dial, or mark a f1.7 lens as and f2.0 and to sell them much
cheaper than thay do the regular models, so I would guess they are going to
take the $7K MZ-D 6MPFF, and software criple it to to 3MPHF and sell it for
$3K.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Cotty [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Pentax List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2001 12:27 PM
Subject: Re: Jumping ship (Was Digital SLR )


 Christian,

 You'll be the first to know if I decide to sell any of my kit!

 Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't 'sell my soul' and I certainly won't be
 expecting to pay a gazillion dollars. I am ready to pre-order if the MX-D
 comes in at D30 money. Maybe a bit beyond, Fuji S1 territory. Beyond
 that, I'm more cautious.

 This is assuming that it's a full-frame image sensor. What if it's 2/3rds
 size? And for more money? Depends on the spec, really. Like someone said,
 it's the cost in switching glass, and of possibly lowering standards in
 that glass...

 I think that in wanting to go fully digital one has to make assumptions
 and choices - not always based on practicalities! I mean, if I wanted a
 cost-effective method of 'going digital' then why don't I just buy an
 all-in-one high-spec digi camera like the Olympus E-XX etc? It would work
 fine as a standalone unit, and I could still shoot film on Pentax.

 My trouble is that I'm too used to 35mm film SLR form-factor. I like the
 shape of the bodies, with grips, and nice big lenses to hold - it all
 works exceedingly well, and I don't want to change that. Having access to
 a large range of glass is essential, in my opinion. Having things at the
 size I've become accustomed to is very important. I find these tiny digi
 cams so small that my big fingers just get all muddled up on them. Forget
 gloves! I like these things with great big knobs and levers on them in
 arranged in a fool-proof manner (ha!), and most 'professional' (ahem)
 gear accommodates this desire. I had an RB67 once upon a time ;-)

 Cost is always important. Anyone self-employed sees the cost of a thing
 as tax-deductable, and how long it takes to pay for itself. I'm not, so
 can't, and it won't. So from my point of view, an MZ-D would be a
 'luxury' item - totally unnecessary! But then again, that's half my
 belongings...

 At the moment in my house there are (mental tally) seven Macintosh
 computers, several in various states of disrepair, three in current use,
 one less than a year old. I don't *need* all those...they just somehow
 got 'acquired' through individual circumstance and...well, desire. (To be
 fair, all except three are being built up to be sold.)

 I used to build and race a 4X4 and until you've messed about with cars
 like that - the cost of a MZ-D pales into insignificance! My S.O.
 breathed a heavy sigh of relief when that eventually went (after nearly a
 decade!) and getting back into stills photography was most welcomed by
 her.

 So, it would be with a heavy heart that I would lose some Pentax gear,
 but I'm firmly decided in shooting digitally within a year. I also firmly
 hope that the MZ-D makes an appearance before then. It really would be
 the icing on the cake. They surely must be ready to rock with such a
 model? I can't believe they're not. They caught themselves just in time
 before releasing that 6MP full-frame beauty that would have been too
 expensive for people like me. Instead, they're hard onto pushing out a
 Pentax D30 *just* for people like me! Go baby go!

 I dream in digital, yessir.

 Cotty

 ___
 Personal email traffic to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 MacAds traffic to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Check out the UK Macintosh ads
 http://www.macads.co.uk
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Re: Med Format Quandry

2001-12-28 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

With that list of cameras I think you have not refined your needs to the
point where you can make a decision.  For instance, you either need a SLR,
or you don't. You either need interchangeable lenses, or you don't. You
either need light weight or you don't.

If you had asked opinions between a Bronica SQ, a Rollei 6001, and the Blad,
I would take your question seriously. But, you, Shel,  are too knowledgeable
for this kind of nonsense, so what is your game here?

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Pentax List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2001 8:56 PM
Subject: Med Format Quandry


Within the next six months to a year I'd like to begin using a medium
format camera for a long-term project that's been in the back of my mind
for a while.  I've somewhat narrowed the choices down to the following
cameras:

Hasselblad 501
Mamiya 7 or 7II
Rolleiflex TLR
Pentax 67 and variants
and maybe a Fuji 6x9

Here's my thinking, your thoughts and suggestions are welcome and
encouraged.

I like the 2¼ format for both its shape and because I don't have to
rotate the camera for horizontal or vertical framing.  I like looking
down into the viewfinder as much as using the camera like a 35mm camera.

The 'blad interests me because it's a very complete system with a lot of
forward and backward compatibility, the lenses are excellent, the camera
seems to be durable and well-built, and it's not too big and
cumbersome.  The downside is that it's expensive and can sometimes be a
bit finicky, but the all manual bodies are pretty simple things.

The Mamiya is of interest because it offers a nice sized negative in a
relatively small and lightweight package.  I like the viewfinder, but am
limited, it seems, by one viewing position - eye level.

The Rolleiflex fascinates me because it's a classic 2¼ box, unassuming
and simple, well-built, and reasonably easy to carry around.  The down
side is that it doesn't offer interchangeable lenses, and the lens
options are limited.  The viewfinder is less than stellar, but that can
be modified.

The Pentax 67 seems interesting, although it seems huge in comparison to
the 'blad, and noisy as well.  Admittedly, my experience with it is
limited only to handling a couple in a camera shop.  The price/value
relationship seems to be good, and there are certainly enough lens
choices.  Does the beast have a viewfinder option that I can look down
into, or does the camera have to be placed to the eye for all shots?
Needing a battery to operate the mirror seems strange, and I don't think
I like the idea on the face of it, but perhaps I can be convinced to
embrace the concept.  Since this is the pentax list, and there are a few
67 users here, what are the weak points of the system, problems I should
look out for?  And what are the differences between the early and late
models?

There's an early (late seventies) Fuji 6x9 that offers a few
interchangeable lenses which intrigues me mostly for its negative size,
and while I like the square format I also like that nice, perfect
rectangle offered by a 6x9.  Downside is that it's only an eye-level
camera, lenses are few, and it's old, making parts and repairs somewhat
difficult.

I think that my choice will probably come down to the 'blad, one of
which I almost bought earlier this year, or the Pentax 67.  So, what've
y'all got to say?
--
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: Yellow be GONE!

2001-12-28 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

If you are shooting color negative, try taking your film to a lab that knows
what they are doing. Writing incandescent light on the envelop will make
them like you better because they won't have to reprint them.

If you are shooting slides, or can't find a lab that knows what they are
doing, you can try an 80A filter. The slides will still be slightly
yellowish, but will probably match what you remember the scene looking like.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: C or B Waters [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2001 10:08 PM
Subject: Yellow be GONE!


 Please forgive this novice question:
 Sometimes I wish to take available light pictures in my house.  The living
 room walls are Yellow and we have regular light bulbs.  Mostly this gives
me
 a pronounced Yellow tint to the color prints.
 What can I do to negate this problem?

 Cory Waters
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Re: Yellow be GONE!

2001-12-28 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

I believe odd numbered filters are yellowish, 81 series, 85 series. And,
even number filters, 80 series are bluish.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2001 10:20 PM
Subject: Re: Yellow be GONE!


 Shoot BW ... or use a color correction filters.  I'm not much of a
 color shooter, but try a blue filter - an 81B or C and see what the
 results are.

 C or B Waters wrote:
 
  Please forgive this novice question:
  Sometimes I wish to take available light pictures in my house.  The
living
  room walls are Yellow and we have regular light bulbs.  Mostly this
gives me
  a pronounced Yellow tint to the color prints.
  What can I do to negate this problem?

 --
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Spiffs

2001-12-27 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Spiffs: cash, toys, discounts, tee-shirts, bonuses, whatever. Probably
derived from spiffy things.  It is similar to but not the same as perks
(perquisites). Perks go with the job, spiffs are extras.

Most of the distributors give something out. Some retailer don't allow their
employees to accept them, but I have found that in those cases they want
their sales people to push what has the highest profit. . An interesting
thing about someplaces like Home Depot who I worked for is they don't allow
employees to accept spiffs, but demanded that the vendors give them (Home
Depot) the equivalent as discounts.

The ultimate spiff is free gear like Nikon USA use to, and Canon USA still
does, give to PJ and other media people. You think all those big white
lenses are owned by the guys shooting that football game? No they just
stopped by the Canon trailer and borrowed them. Sometimes, I have heard,
they are not asked to return them. Some of the big customers, like
newspapers, etc. Canon sends repair people around to once or twice a year to
go through all their equipment to fix or replace anything broken.

Ansel Adams used a Hassleblad outfit in his later years. You think he paid
for it?

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Cotty [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 spiffs

 I take it that a 'spiff' is some sort of perk? It's not in my sland
 repertoire unfortunately...
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Re: Spiffs

2001-12-27 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

That's cheating ;-).  If dye subs, which were far better than inkjets to
start, have improved as much as inkjets the prints must be spectacular.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Cotty [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Pentax List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2001 6:19 PM
Subject: Re: Spiffs


 Cotty

 (who will sneak in a Dye Sub print to next year's Print Challenge!)
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Re: DPI vs. PPI

2001-12-26 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

To the best of my knowledge, 10K dpi will resolve the grain of normal film.
Someone on the list said his 400 dpi would do that, but I think there is a
difference between showing the grain and fully resolving it.

I do know that the best print I have received from the PDML Printer
Challenge was scaned on a very high resolution scanner, so apparently the
higher the scan resolution the better the final image.

If 6mp does the job, why do the advertising pros use backs that produce
100mb+ images? A 6mp back produces an 18mb image. I think that it is
advertising speak for we think you are stupid enough to believe this.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Kent Gittings [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2001 11:45 AM
Subject: RE: DPI vs. PPI


 Sorry but color CCD digicams use exactly the same technology as scanners
in
 most cases. The only interpolation they do is if they are capable of
 producing a result that has higher res than the number of actual pixels in
 the CCD grid. Which is exactly how a 1200x2400 pixel/dot scanner can come
up
 with an interpolated scan that is 9600x9600. By the way in the latest
 product news from Fuji they say that generally (without specifying the
film)
 a 35mm snapshot has about 6 MP of info that can be mined out of it with
even
 the best scanners. This is when comparing it to their 6900 digicam that
has
 a 6 MP interpolation mode. I know at some point a higher and higher dpi
film
 scanner will get no more real data out of a negative/slide but just
 interpolation of the areas between the grain. However I was under the
 impression the amount of data on a 35mm frame was higher. So either they
are
 fudging so as to place themselves correctly in the digicam world or they
are
 correct and maybe downplaying the actual data content of their own film to
 move towards a digital world.
 Kent Gittings

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Doug Franklin
 Sent: Friday, December 21, 2001 10:24 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: DPI vs. PPI


 On Fri, 21 Dec 2001 18:50:24 -0700, aimcompute wrote:

  I have noticed that scanner mfr.'s use the term interchangeably.  For
  instance Minolta lists their scanner resolutions in dpi.

 I've always thought of it as pixels each have all of the color
 vectors (R, G, and B, or C, M, Y, and K, or whatever), whiles dots
 have only one color vector.  Sort of like the difference in color
 scanner sensors and digicam sensors.  The color scanner samples all of
 the colors at each pixel while the digicam (generally) only samples one
 color at each pixel, then interpolates the other colors.  Printers
 generally get described in dots while scanners and monitors in
 pixels.

 YMMV

 TTYL, DougF
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 the system manager.

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Re: DPI vs. PPI

2001-12-26 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

And, why pay for a 10Kdpi drum scan?

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: aimcompute [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2001 12:09 PM
Subject: Re: DPI vs. PPI


 That's interesting, but let me ask this.  I'll do it rhethorical fashion.

 When I scan a 35mm slide with my 2438ppi scanner, what part of the 20+
 megabyte file would I choose as being inconsequential to the image?

 And now with the 4000ppi scanners it seems there is even more data to be
 found in a 35mm frame.

 Tom C.

 Kent Kittings wrote:

 snip

  By the way in the latest
  product news from Fuji they say that generally (without specifying the
 film)
  a 35mm snapshot has about 6 MP of info that can be mined out of it with
 even
  the best scanners. This is when comparing it to their 6900 digicam that
 has
  a 6 MP interpolation mode. I know at some point a higher and higher dpi
 film
  scanner will get no more real data out of a negative/slide but just
  interpolation of the areas between the grain. However I was under the
  impression the amount of data on a 35mm frame was higher. So either they
 are
  fudging so as to place themselves correctly in the digicam world or they
 are
  correct and maybe downplaying the actual data content of their own film
to
  move towards a digital world.
  Kent Gittings
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Re: DPI vs. PPI

2001-12-26 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

While we are talking about advertising speak, please explain how a scanner
can get a density range of 4.2 on a scale of 0 to 4?

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Kent Gittings [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2001 2:13 PM
Subject: RE: DPI vs. PPI


 True but if raw pixel count is only getting the equivalent of
interpolation
 between the film grains you may not be getting anything real. If the image
 blown up is a little fuzzy around the edges of things then more pixels
will
 not cure the problem. Only a sharper image with more pixels can help.
 Finding that line to crossover from film to digital is the key. If you
were
 using Kodak Techpan 2415 then more info than 6 MP could be gotten out of
the
 resulting negative. But maybe with 800ASA Superia X-tra the results would
 provide the same information in the shot. Would be interesting if some
 magazine was willing to test this out. Say using a Nikon D-1x vs. an F-5
or
 a Canon D-1 vs. an EOS-1v. Then try successively faster films scanned on
 something like a Minolta Scan Pro (4800 DPI, 48 color, 4.2 dynamic range)
to
 maximize the film info and find out at what point the film results were
hard
 to tell from the digicam. Sort of like comparing good lenses.
 But then again maybe with their agendas the film/camera makers don't want
 that to happen less  they have people moving towards one result
effectively
 harming the other suddenly.
 Kent Gittings

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of aimcompute
 Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2001 1:28 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: DPI vs. PPI


 I agree with your suspicion.

 My Minolta, in raw pixels gets about 8mb from a 35mm frame.  With the
 4000dpi scanners, a raw pixel count of about 20mb is realized.

 It does seem there is more than 6 megapixels of information in a 35mm film
 frame.

 It's the standards issue again...  and what size the final output will
be.
 For most people 6 mega-pixels may be good enough, but good enough and
as
 good may be two different things, depending on the user's intentions.

 Tom C.


 - Original Message -
 From: Kent Gittings [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2001 11:06 AM
 Subject: RE: DPI vs. PPI


  I don't know either. If I thought that there was really only about 6 MP
of
  real info in a 35mm frame I might make the switch to digital sooner than
I
  expect to. But I'm not sure they are not fudging their opinions down so
as
  to sell large amounts of their higher end digital cameras.
  Kent Gittings
 
  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of aimcompute
  Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2001 12:10 PM
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: Re: DPI vs. PPI
 
 
  That's interesting, but let me ask this.  I'll do it rhethorical
fashion.
 
  When I scan a 35mm slide with my 2438ppi scanner, what part of the 20+
  megabyte file would I choose as being inconsequential to the image?
 
  And now with the 4000ppi scanners it seems there is even more data to be
  found in a 35mm frame.
 
  Tom C.
 
  Kent Kittings wrote:
 
  snip
 
   By the way in the latest
   product news from Fuji they say that generally (without specifying the
  film)
   a 35mm snapshot has about 6 MP of info that can be mined out of it
with
  even
   the best scanners. This is when comparing it to their 6900 digicam
that
  has
   a 6 MP interpolation mode. I know at some point a higher and higher
dpi
  film
   scanner will get no more real data out of a negative/slide but just
   interpolation of the areas between the grain. However I was under the
   impression the amount of data on a 35mm frame was higher. So either
they
  are
   fudging so as to place themselves correctly in the digicam world or
they
  are
   correct and maybe downplaying the actual data content of their own
film
 to
   move towards a digital world.
   Kent Gittings
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  go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
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 This message is from the 

Re: Dispelling the Myth of Santa's Reindeer

2001-12-24 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

That is a canard. All eight of my raindeer are alive and well. However,
these days I do prefer to drive the Dodge Viper. It doesn't fly very well
but it is fast, especially after being modified to run on Pixie dust. Oh, by
the way, I will not be delivering to California this year as Pixie dust is
not an approved fuel there and does not meet their emissions laws. Funny, no
one out there ever complained about raindeer poop.

SANTA  CLAWS.




- Original Message -
From: Paul Stenquist [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2001 10:06 AM
Subject: Re: Dispelling the Myth of Santa's Reindeer


 It's about time someone tried to set the record straight. According to
 no less than an authority than the New York Times the reindeer situation
 is apalling. From this morning's Op-Ed page:
 Time has not been kind to Santa's stables. None of the original group
 of reindeer remain. Comet ws the first to withdraw,in 1962, citing
 creative differences with several of the other reindeer. Two years
 later, Blitzen left to pursui other projects. dancer was eaten by a
 wolf in 1987. Cupid, the last of the original reindeer, is mired in
 litigation with Santa over a work-related antler injury and has not
 participated in the Christmas Eve trip since 1994. These days the sleigh
 is pulled by only four reindeer, who are rehired annually through a temp
 agency in Nome, Alaska.

 Shel Belinkoff wrote:

  http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/humor/reindeer-myth.html
  --
  Shel Belinkoff
  mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: metering landscapes (spot / incident)

2001-12-24 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Well now, if I was across the valley from what I was photographing and it
was in direct sunlight I would hold my incident meter in direct sunlight
between my camera and the scene with the meter pointed at the camera. If it
was in shadow I would hold the meter in shadow and follow the exact same
procedure as above. But, you say, what if the scene is in direct sun and
there is a cloud or something preventing me from getting a direct sun
reading, I need a spot meter for that don't I? Nope, just close down a
couple of stops from the meter reading and shoot away. The thing is, with a
little experience, you have a good idea of the adjustment needed in just
about any situation. The incident meter gives you the baseline exposure and
experience gives you the proper adjustment.

The standard way to use an incident meter, for the benefit of the original
poster, is to use the dome, hold the meter at the subject, point it at the
camera, and take your reading. The disk is used for light balancing readings
which are usually only used with artificial lighting though they can
sometimes be useful in other situations. The incident meter used with the
dome, as mentioned above, gives you the equivalent of a gray card reading
without the fuss and bother. Experience tells you how to compensate for
different tones, etc.

In fact, unless you are doing custom processing of your film to rigorous
standards, ala zone system, the incident meter will give you just as
accurate an exposure as a spot meter. Better, if you are not extremely
skilled with that spot meter.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To me it's not a given, as it seems that with landscapes there's often
 something in the distance that's part of the scene.  And with landscapes
 there are times when parts of a scene are in deep shadow or in bright
 light.  Perhaps I am pickier than most, but I want to know exactly what
 the range of light is in a scene so that I, not an averaging meter, can
 choose where the highlights and shadows will fall.
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Re: metering landscapes (spot / incident)

2001-12-24 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Well, Paul, the exact same sun was shining on that mountain as was shining
on you. Is that not correct? And an incident meter would have given you the
correct reading for the sunlight shining on you. Is that not correct? Yes,
in such a situation, the only type of reflected light meter that would work
well is a narrow spot meter. But, I submit, you could have gotten just as
accurate a reading from an incident meter without 1/10th the hassle.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Paul Stenquist [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2001 8:37 PM
Subject: Re: metering landscapes (spot / incident)


 Shel Belinkoff wrote:

 
 
  How would you use an incident meter to photograph a scene when you're a
  great distance from the area you want to capture, say a distant mountain
  range across a wide valley?  In a situation like that, IMO, only a spot
  meter or a TTL meter can be truly dependable.

 I wouldn't use the incident meter in that situation. And if I used the TTL
 meter, I'd want to supplement it with a spot meter reading. I recall when
I
 shot the sunrise on the Minaret Range from Mammoth Mountain, which was at
least
 some twenty miles away, I used the spot to find the value in various parts
of
 the range. There was way too much black sky above the mountains and too
much
 dark valley below them to trust the LX's meter. However, I used the spot
meter
 reading to determine my exposure compensation number, in respect to the LX
 meter reading, then let the LX's OTF metering finsish the job. The
discrepancy
 wasn't as great as I thought it might be. A half stop at most. But a half
stop
 can make a difference, even with negative film.
But the incident meter is a fast and dirty way to handle normal
situations.
 I've used it with great success.
 Paul
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Re: metering landscapes (spot / incident)

2001-12-24 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Dome, pointed at the camera from the subject. No compensation is normally
needed in such a situation as hte meter is reading the light rather than the
snow.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Frantisek Vlcek [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2001 4:52 PM
Subject: metering landscapes (spot / incident)


 Hi,


 short: how about metering a snowy landscape using incident meter
 (L398) ?

 long:
I will be going to a short trip to country (runningski) day after
tomorrow, and of course I
will take camera(s) with me :) I was thinking about leaving my
spotmeter at home (I take Yashica D, meterless, and a rangefinder.
Both normal FOV of 42mm lens,BTW - somewhat challenging for
landscapes IMHO) - it's a Pentax Spotmeter V (latest
model) and although it's great and never failed me (it's built like
a tank too, I had a look inside, I needed to resolder broken
battery wires), it's bigger and heavier than the rangefinder, and
doesn't fit into any of my StreetField belt lens cases (I carry
the Yashica  film  hood in one LC3, the rangefinder in a small Tamrac
case).

Weather is gonna be overcast probably, so what about just using
incident meter?

1) should I use the dome diffuser? Or the flat diffuser?
2) how should I point the meter? parallel with ground? Half point
between sun and camera (as in studio) ?
3) Anything else?

 Thanks for help.


 Good light,
  Frantisek Vlcek


























4
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Re: will BW film developer work for paper?

2001-12-24 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Never heard of anybody that tried it, but I can make some educated guesses
based on doing the opposite (developing film in Dekol)

Paper developer is high energy that is why it only takes one or two minutes
to develop a print. The proper time for Tri-X in Dekol is 2 minutes, so I
would guess it would take 15-20 minutes to develop a sheet of paper in film
developer. An 8x10 sheet of paper has about the same emulsion area as a 36
exposure roll of 35mm film, so I would guess you could only develop 2 or
three prints before the developer was exhausted. The prints would probable
come out fine grained and low contrast, because Tri-X in Dekol is very
grainy and contrasty.

So, I would guess that it would probably be a waste of time as far as
getting good prints is concerned, but might be an interesting experiment.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: William Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: pdml [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2001 6:03 PM
Subject: OT: will BW film developer work for paper?


 Hi,

 It looks like I'll have a few hours to spend in the darkroom on
 Christmas night, but alas, I have no paper developer, and the closest
 store is an hour from my home, and probably closed.  I have a few
 varieties of film developer.  So anyone ever try to develop paper in
 film developer?  Will the results be any good?  If it makes a
 difference, I can choose between Rodinal, Ilfosol S and Acufine.
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Re: An Xmas discussion about hobbies and putting them in perspective.

2001-12-23 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Ah, but, you see.  He thinks you take pictures. Tell him you collect
cameras. He will understand. Mind you he will still think you are dippy (who
the hell wants to collect cameras, or Barbie dolls, for that matter), but he
will understand. He's a collector himself.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Malcolm Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2001 11:26 AM
Subject: OT: An Xmas discussion about hobbies and putting them in
perspective.


 This is an off topic post so feel free to delete now.

 I am fortunate that I have known/know some real characters in life, one of
 which I met today whilst doing the Christmas shopping. I hadn't seen him
for
 a while, and chat made its way around to what was acquired for Xmas, and I
 mentioned my new LX.

 Well, he got on his soapbox (in a most amusing manner) ridiculing my need
 for another camera, stating that perhaps I was taking photography to
 extremes.

 I shook his hand, wished his family a happy Christmas, winked at his wife
 (NO, not an LX or MX wink) and shook my head at her.

 My friend collects vintage commercial vehicles!!

 No more off topic posts for a while, but I hope you enjoyed the double
 standards of the above. Plus remember, you may have your other half not
keen
 on photography, but at least you can say it could be way. worse.

 Malcolm
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Re: Out with a TLR

2001-12-23 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Try a Speed Graphic (for an attention getter, they are too big to ware
around your neck).

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: frank theriault [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2001 12:13 PM
Subject: OT: Out with a TLR


 Hi, all,

 Answering Malcolm's so-called OT thread a few moments ago reminded me
 about a recent occurance.

 I recall that (I think it was) two or three months ago, someone
 mentioned that walking around with a honkin' big brick of a TLR around
 your neck is bound to get you noticed, and that some will invariably
 think you a pro, since not many tlr's are seen in public these days
 (if they ever were).

 Well, now that I've had a chance to walk around with my Yashica Mat for
 a weekend (last weekend actually - my first roll of prints will be ready
 tomorrow - yippee!), all I can say is, Wow, do you ever get noticed!
 I had so many strangers ask me about/comment on the camera!  And some of
 them were cute young ladies too!  (not that I got any phone numbers, but
 at my age, just gettin' them to talk to ya is an accomplishment)  I was
 quite surprised by all the attention!

 I heartily recommend it (I bet that 645's or 6x7's work just as well or
 better) for anyone who's social life is lagging a bit.

 regards,
 frank

 --
 The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The
 pessimist fears it is true. -J. Robert
 Oppenheimer
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Re: OT: An Xmas discussion about hobbies and putting them in perspective.

2001-12-23 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

No, I think not.

There collectors and there are investors. The investor don't give a diddlely
about what they invest in all they are interested in is making money. A
collector loves what he acquires, he fondles it, shows it to anyone who will
look, and unless it is so valuable it would be stupid, sometimes even then,
he uses it.

A strange thing about investors in collectibles is that they never seem to
realize they are buying retail and selling wholesale. Go figure

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: frank theriault [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2001 1:58 PM
Subject: Re: OT: An Xmas discussion about hobbies and putting them in
perspective.


 Hi, Tom,

 You are, of course, correct.  If I have more than one camera, then I guess
I'm a
 collector.  That is an entirely valid use of the term.

 When I think or say collector, I think of that type of person who
purchases
 something for a purpose which (at least partially) is other than that for
which
 the device is designed for.  Something intended to be put in a closet or
garage,
 usually so it can appreciate in value - or at least not depreciate through
 ordinary usage.

 Of course, the extreme is someone who buys, let's say, a collector's
edition
 Leica (or whatever - I just mention Leica because they make so damned many
 collector's editions), never takes it out of the box, lest it's value be
 compromised by allowing it to see air or sunlight!  This, imho, is an
 abomination, and he will never get into Photography Heaven that way.

 So yeah, I guess that I collect 50's to 70's usable Japanese cameras that
were
 made in the millions, and are still available very inexpensively.  I also
try
 for cameras that will take a pretty good photo (given an opportunity by a
good
 photographer).

 Of course, I just got a Voigtlander Vito for $2 the other day on eBay (no,
I
 didn't forget any zeros - $2), so now I think I'll have to drop the
Japanese
 from my collection description.

 I guess there are collectors, and there are COLLECTORS.   :-)

 regards,
 frank

 Tom Rittenhouse wrote:

  But you are a collector. To take photos you only need one camera. The
fact
  you have several proves you are a collector. Malcom's friend probably
drives
  those trucks too, now and then.
 
  Frankly, I don't know why so many photographers refuse to accept they
are
  collectors, maybe not serious ones, or they would have a collection that
had
  a theme (all the screw mount Pentax bodies, for instance), the we are
  collectors. My camera collection has pretty much been serial, a few at a
  time, over the years, but still I am a camera collector. Some times I am
a
  photographer too. :-)

 --
 The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The
pessimist
 fears it is true. -J. Robert
 Oppenheimer
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Re: Out with a TLR

2001-12-23 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

But not a Mamiya Universal, they tiptoe around you craning their necks to
look, but are very careful not to disturb your obviously important work. It
always bemused me. It seems like to the public that thing is the epitome of
the big black professional camera.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: JeffW. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2001 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: Out with a TLR


 on 12/23/01 12:27 PM, Tom Rittenhouse at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  Try a Speed Graphic (for an attention getter, they are too big to ware
  around your neck).
 
  Ciao,
  graywolf
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 Or a tripod mounted Kiev. Even more so when they disacover it isn't a
Hassy.

 JeffW.
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Re: Bought an S800, Printing tips and PS question?

2001-12-21 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

You be sending a 2400ppi 1x1.5 inch image to the printer. You need to change
to a 400ppi 6x9 inch image before printing. That is you want to keep the
file size the same but the image size larger. That is usually called
resizing. If you change the file size it is usually called resampling. Best
quality on that S800 would be from a 450 to 600 ppi image going by what I
have seen on the PDML Printer Challenge.

Ciao,
graywolf



- Original Message -
From: Paul Jones [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2001 6:46 AM
Subject: Bought an S800, Printing tips and PS question?


 Hi,

 I just bought a Canon S800 and made my first print. I'm pretty impressed
so
 far.

 Any tips on getting good prints? i noticed it was a little pixely in the
 finely detailed sections.

 Also I am printing out of photoshop 6 and when i go into print options if
i
 select the scale to be
 100% then the image appears tiny on the page, i have to choose to scale to
 fit media which in turn makes the image scale about  2000%. The image was
 scanned in at 2400dpi, so if anything shouldn't i be down sizing the
image?

 Thanks,
 Paul
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Re: Which Printer to Buy?

2001-12-21 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Yes to the best of my knowledge, the S800 has six separate tanks. The other
S series use 4 tanks, as did Canon BJC-6xx series. The Epson 2000P has six
separate tanks. The HPs replace the three color cartridge with an optional
six color cartridge, I think black is separate, also the print-heads are
built into the cartridges. The Epson Photo printers use a 6 color cartridge,
black and 5 colors.

As far as I know the only one of these that is designed specifically as a
photo printer is the Canon S800. It is supposed to be rather slow printing
text.

I have not seen recent prints made on ah HP with the six-color cartridge
installed. If anyone has one, please send it to the PDML Pinter Challenge.

Ciao,
graywolf



- Original Message -
From: Kent Gittings [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2001 8:45 AM
Subject: RE: Which Printer to Buy?


 They may have 6 colors but only the BJC-8200 and S-800 have six tanks that
 can actively use them at one time. Most or all of the rest usually require
 either a separate 4 color photo cartridge (older Canons and HPs for sure
and
 probably the rest also) or the replacement of 2 or 3 of the 4 tank models
 with photo ink cartridges.
 Kent Gittings

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Tom Rittenhouse
 Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 2:47 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: Which Printer to Buy?


 I think all the PHOTO printers have six colors, either standard or as an
 option.

 Ciao,
 graywolf



 - Original Message -
 From: Kent Gittings [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 9:10 AM
 Subject: RE: Which Printer to Buy?


  S800 has 6 ink tanks instead of 4 so it can have the regular and 2 photo
 ink
  cartridges in and in use at the same time. It should increase the range
of
  reproducible colors. It has the same ink tank arrangement as the
  discontinued BJC-8200 which I think at least one user on this list has.
  Kent Gittings
 
  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Paul Jones
  Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 5:28 AM
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: Which Printer to Buy?
 
 
  Hi,
 
  Have the results come in from the PDML printer showdown? maybe i just
 missed
  them.
 
  I'm proably going to buy an Inkjet this weekend. The ones i'm looking at
 are
  a Canon S600, Canon S800 and Epson 980. Is there other I should be
looking
  at? Has any one got any opinions on these?
 
  As yet i'm unable to see any real difference between the S600 and S800
  except for speed.
 
  The 980 is an A4 version of the 1270 or 1280 isnt it?
 
  I dont need a printer that prints more than A4 size as my scanner wont
 scan
  at a high enough res to go that big.
 
  Any comments appreciated.
 
  Have the results come in from the PDML printer showdown? maybe i just
 missed
  them.
 
  Thanks,
  Paul Jones
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