Flash Meter experiment

2012-05-31 Thread Larry Colen
I did some art nudes with a friend last night using my studio flash gear.  As 
an experiment, I pulled out the flash meter and when I'd get my lighting dialed 
in, I'd take a picture of the flash meter and a grey card.  
As far as I can tell, the way it works is to fire the strobe.  the f/stop that 
it reads on the meter is the correct aperture for ASA 50 film.  Point the arrow 
on the dial at that aperture, then look at what aperture lines up with the ISO, 
and that's the supposed correct exposure.

I will say that it never completely blew the exposure, but it was pretty 
consistently different from the exposure that I ended up using, about a stop or 
so under.  In other words plenty of safe headroom for something really bright 
in the picture, but not maximizing the SNR on low key digital photos.  Shooting 
at ISO 80 on the K-5, I think that I could feel confident that if I used the 
flash meter, and didn't check the histogram, I would almost never blow a shot.

I am coming to the conclusion that it is a valuable tool to know how to use, 
that there are situations that it can prove invaluable, but likewise, the 
histogram is also a valuable tool, and I'd be foolish to rely on the flash 
meter and ignore the histogram, if the histogram were available.

For those that would like to check for themselves, fluidr shows the exif data, 
so you can see the flash meter reading, and my actual exposure data.
http://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157629987116526/

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Re: Flash Meter experiment

2012-05-31 Thread P. J. Alling

On 5/31/2012 3:31 PM, Larry Colen wrote:

I did some art nudes with a friend last night using my studio flash gear.  As 
an experiment, I pulled out the flash meter and when I'd get my lighting dialed 
in, I'd take a picture of the flash meter and a grey card.
As far as I can tell, the way it works is to fire the strobe.  the f/stop that 
it reads on the meter is the correct aperture for ASA 50 film.  Point the arrow 
on the dial at that aperture, then look at what aperture lines up with the ISO, 
and that's the supposed correct exposure.

I will say that it never completely blew the exposure, but it was pretty 
consistently different from the exposure that I ended up using, about a stop or 
so under.  In other words plenty of safe headroom for something really bright 
in the picture, but not maximizing the SNR on low key digital photos.  Shooting 
at ISO 80 on the K-5, I think that I could feel confident that if I used the 
flash meter, and didn't check the histogram, I would almost never blow a shot.

I am coming to the conclusion that it is a valuable tool to know how to use, 
that there are situations that it can prove invaluable, but likewise, the 
histogram is also a valuable tool, and I'd be foolish to rely on the flash 
meter and ignore the histogram, if the histogram were available.

For those that would like to check for themselves, fluidr shows the exif data, 
so you can see the flash meter reading, and my actual exposure data.
http://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157629987116526/


Those are about the geekiest nudes I've ever seen...



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Re: Flash Meter experiment

2012-05-31 Thread Larry Colen

On May 31, 2012, at 1:44 PM, P. J. Alling wrote:

 On 5/31/2012 3:31 PM, Larry Colen wrote:
 
 For those that would like to check for themselves, fluidr shows the exif 
 data, so you can see the flash meter reading, and my actual exposure data.
 http://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157629987116526/
 
 Those are about the geekiest nudes I've ever seen...

You should see the server room bondage series someone did a few years back.

 

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Re: Flash Meter experiment

2012-05-31 Thread luiz felipe
Larry, I'd rather use my meters in the incident light mode - assuming 
they had the option. That's probably the the only difference.


I used the Gossen Pro F for a very looong time, and used to bracket 
since local E-6 development had issues. With C41 I hardly used the 
Gossen, but in studio with the Ds and the Xti I had *always* some 
adjustment. If memory serves, the Xti wanted more than half stop more 
light, and the Ds would be ok with a little less than one stop more 
light. So your results do not look odd, even if I don't use grey cards.


Making adjustment according to the image mood and tonal range of the 
subject is sound procedure IMHO - always done that way, limited to the 
kind of film in use. I do want my whites with less detail and more light 
by default - again some adjustment required from the meter reading. I do 
enjoy building the pic if possible.


will check the pics later, underage sidekick is near. :-)

lf



Message: 16
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 12:31:12 -0700
From: Larry Colen l...@red4est.com
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
Subject: Flash Meter experiment
Message-ID: 7b7215ab-1ab1-4739-a138-d35ca8180...@red4est.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I did some art nudes with a friend last night using my studio flash
gear.  As an experiment, I pulled out the flash meter and when I'd 
get

my lighting dialed in, I'd take a picture of the flash meter and a
grey card.
As far as I can tell, the way it works is to fire the strobe.  the
f/stop that it reads on the meter is the correct aperture for ASA 50
film.  Point the arrow on the dial at that aperture, then look at 
what

aperture lines up with the ISO, and that's the supposed correct
exposure.

I will say that it never completely blew the exposure, but it was
pretty consistently different from the exposure that I ended up 
using,

about a stop or so under.  In other words plenty of safe headroom for
something really bright in the picture, but not maximizing the SNR on
low key digital photos.  Shooting at ISO 80 on the K-5, I think that 
I

could feel confident that if I used the flash meter, and didn't check
the histogram, I would almost never blow a shot.

I am coming to the conclusion that it is a valuable tool to know how
to use, that there are situations that it can prove invaluable, but
likewise, the histogram is also a valuable tool, and I'd be foolish 
to

rely on the flash meter and ignore the histogram, if the histogram
were available.

For those that would like to check for themselves, fluidr shows the
exif data, so you can see the flash meter reading, and my actual
exposure data.
http://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157629987116526/

--
Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est

--
luiz felipe
luiz.felipe at luizfelipe.fot.br

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Re: Flash Meter experiment

2012-05-31 Thread Bruce Walker
According to this article, you've got it about right. But there's no
point to using the gray card there, just hold the meter near the part
of the image that will be the brightest (or most sensitive to
overexposure, like facial skin), with the dome pointing back at the
camera lens (one general method) and fire your strobe(s). The meter is
supposed to flip up and stick at the required f-stop. You can
translate to different f-stops using the scale on the dial.

http://photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/009RaY

Another way to use it is to measure the light from each individual
strobe. To do that you'll need to make a tiny snoot from black paper
that fits the white dome. (Think of it as a reverse flash.) Holding
the meter near your subject, point the snoot at each light and fire it
(or them all) to measure its contribution.


On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 3:31 PM, Larry Colen l...@red4est.com wrote:

 I did some art nudes with a friend last night using my studio flash gear.
  As an experiment, I pulled out the flash meter and when I'd get my lighting
 dialed in, I'd take a picture of the flash meter and a grey card.
 As far as I can tell, the way it works is to fire the strobe.  the f/stop
 that it reads on the meter is the correct aperture for ASA 50 film.  Point
 the arrow on the dial at that aperture, then look at what aperture lines up
 with the ISO, and that's the supposed correct exposure.

 I will say that it never completely blew the exposure, but it was pretty
 consistently different from the exposure that I ended up using, about a stop
 or so under.  In other words plenty of safe headroom for something really
 bright in the picture, but not maximizing the SNR on low key digital photos.
  Shooting at ISO 80 on the K-5, I think that I could feel confident that if
 I used the flash meter, and didn't check the histogram, I would almost never
 blow a shot.

 I am coming to the conclusion that it is a valuable tool to know how to
 use, that there are situations that it can prove invaluable, but likewise,
 the histogram is also a valuable tool, and I'd be foolish to rely on the
 flash meter and ignore the histogram, if the histogram were available.

 For those that would like to check for themselves, fluidr shows the exif
 data, so you can see the flash meter reading, and my actual exposure data.
 http://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157629987116526/

 --
 Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est





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Re: Flash Meter experiment

2012-05-31 Thread John Francis
Larry wrote:

 I did some art nudes with a friend last night using my studio flash
 gear.  As an experiment, I pulled out the flash meter and when I'd get
 my lighting dialed in, I'd take a picture of the flash meter and a grey card.

I know that you've got an FA77Ltd - why are you shooting at 50mm?
I'd expect the longer focal length to be better suited to this work,
and presumably you've got enough space to step a bit further away.


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Re: Flash Meter experiment

2012-05-31 Thread Larry Colen


Begin forwarded message:

 From: luiz felipe luiz.fel...@techmit.com.br
 Date: May 31, 2012 4:09:36 PM PDT
 To: pdml@pdml.net
 Subject: Re: Flash Meter experiment
 Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 
 
 
 will check the pics later, underage sidekick is near. :-)

These pictures are just of the flash meter and a grey card.
 
 

 From: Bruce Walker bruce.wal...@gmail.com
 Date: May 31, 2012 4:31:57 PM PDT
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 Subject: Re: Flash Meter experiment
 Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 
 According to this article, you've got it about right. But there's no
 point to using the gray card there, just hold the meter near the part
 of the image that will be the brightest (or most sensitive to


Heh!  I was using the grey card in those photos as a color reference for 
lightroom.
Shooting two birds in one frame, as it were.


 overexposure, like facial skin), with the dome pointing back at the
 camera lens (one general method) and fire your strobe(s). The meter is
 supposed to flip up and stick at the required f-stop. You can
 translate to different f-stops using the scale on the dial.
 
 http://photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/009RaY
 
 Another way to use it is to measure the light from each individual
 strobe. To do that you'll need to make a tiny snoot from black paper
 that fits the white dome. (Think of it as a reverse flash.) Holding
 the meter near your subject, point the snoot at each light and fire it
 (or them all) to measure its contribution.
 
 

 From: John Francis jo...@panix.com
 Date: May 31, 2012 5:02:19 PM PDT
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 Subject: Re: Flash Meter experiment
 Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 
 Larry wrote:
 
 I did some art nudes with a friend last night using my studio flash
 gear.  As an experiment, I pulled out the flash meter and when I'd get
 my lighting dialed in, I'd take a picture of the flash meter and a grey card.
 
 I know that you've got an FA77Ltd - why are you shooting at 50mm?
 I'd expect the longer focal length to be better suited to this work,
 and presumably you've got enough space to step a bit further away.

They were shot in my living room, and to get the lights where I wanted, I 
didn't have any more room.  Unfortunately, my living room is long, but narrow.  

It was chilly enough she didn't want to do nude photos outdoors last night.  

 

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Re: Flash Meter experiment

2012-05-31 Thread Paul Stenquist
A flash meter is best used in incident mode. When shooting a model, position it 
in an area where you want a normal, correct exposure (as opposed to a highlight 
or shadow), point it at the camera lens and fire your strobes. The f-stop 
displayed on the meter should be your exposure. To see how much light falloff 
or overexposure you have in other areas, you can reposition the meter and fire 
again. But your shooting stop should be there reading you get in the spot where 
you need a correct exposure. 

Paul
On May 31, 2012, at 3:31 PM, Larry Colen wrote:

 I did some art nudes with a friend last night using my studio flash gear.  As 
 an experiment, I pulled out the flash meter and when I'd get my lighting 
 dialed in, I'd take a picture of the flash meter and a grey card.  
 As far as I can tell, the way it works is to fire the strobe.  the f/stop 
 that it reads on the meter is the correct aperture for ASA 50 film.  Point 
 the arrow on the dial at that aperture, then look at what aperture lines up 
 with the ISO, and that's the supposed correct exposure.
 
 I will say that it never completely blew the exposure, but it was pretty 
 consistently different from the exposure that I ended up using, about a stop 
 or so under.  In other words plenty of safe headroom for something really 
 bright in the picture, but not maximizing the SNR on low key digital photos.  
 Shooting at ISO 80 on the K-5, I think that I could feel confident that if I 
 used the flash meter, and didn't check the histogram, I would almost never 
 blow a shot.
 
 I am coming to the conclusion that it is a valuable tool to know how to use, 
 that there are situations that it can prove invaluable, but likewise, the 
 histogram is also a valuable tool, and I'd be foolish to rely on the flash 
 meter and ignore the histogram, if the histogram were available.
 
 For those that would like to check for themselves, fluidr shows the exif 
 data, so you can see the flash meter reading, and my actual exposure data.
 http://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157629987116526/
 
 --
 Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Need a (flash)meter] Mamiya C330 TLR arrived

2010-12-31 Thread Thibouille
Thank you John.

2010/12/31 John Sessoms jsessoms...@nc.rr.com:
 http://www.weinproducts.com/Camera-Produdcts.html

 From: Thibouille

 2010/12/30 Darren Addy pixelsmi...@gmail.com:

  You might look into Wein flashmeters for studiouse. They are plentiful
  and cheap and easy to use. For on the run, you really don't need a
  flashmeter for a single flash setup. I used to use the venerable
  Vivitar 283 and 285s. Dial in your ASA/ISO and you have a range of
  power settings that allow you to shoot anything under a given range at
  a given aperture. If you are bouncing the light you will need to
  compensate for the light loss, of course.

 Never heard of those. Couldn't find any on Ebay either.
 Can one find those in Europe ?

 Yep, outside isn't much of a problem, indeed.

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--
Photo: K-7, Sigma 28/1.8 macro, FA50/1.4, DA40Ltd, K30/2.8, DA16-45,
DA50-135, DA50-200, 360FGZ ...
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Re: [Need a (flash)meter] Mamiya C330 TLR arrived

2010-12-30 Thread Thibouille
Thanks John, I'll see if I can find price of one of those used.

2010/12/29 John Sessoms jsessoms...@nc.rr.com:
 From: Thibouille

 My TLR finally arrived, after it waited quite a bit in its box waiting
 for snow to go away so the truck could actually deliver it (that was
 so hard to wait...).
 Although the camera needs a cleaning (expected) and a new focus screen
 would be good as well, the urgent need is for a meter.
 Of course I can use the K7 but that's not exactly that easy. If I can
 avoid the bulk, I'll do it.

 I have Studio flashes but have no Flashmeter which means trial 
 errors is a little annoying: a flashmeter would be a good thing.
 But wouldn't using a modern flashmeter (and a C330 TLR) outside not
 getting too much attention on me/the camera ?
 A Sekonic 308/358 is fine at home but outside?

 Maybe a second hand meter from Eekbay would be of any value (if those
 still deliver any consistent results)?
 Heard a lot of good from Minolta flashmeters (III,IV and V) as well.

 Really, a simple old CdS meter might be good enough for using outside
 with the C330? Or would a modern Sekonic/Gossen meter really add much
 more?


 I have found the Sekonic L-408 Multimaster meter to be an excellent all
 around meter.

 It does ambient, flash (cord  cordless), and reflected light metering using
 a 5 deg spot viewfinder. It's water resistant.

 The lumisphere retracts for contrast measurement, and it has multi-flash
 capability for measuring cumulative flash exposure.

 Powered by a single 1.5v AA battery.

 Plus they don't usually cost as much as some meters with less capability.

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DA50-135, DA50-200, 360FGZ ...
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Re: [Need a (flash)meter] Mamiya C330 TLR arrived

2010-12-30 Thread Thibouille
2010/12/29 Eric Weir eew...@bellsouth.net:

 On Dec 28, 2010, at 9:55 AM, Paul Sorenson wrote:

 I used a Gossen LunaSix when I had my studio and the major brands are always 
 a good bet.  That said, I currently use Shepherd/Polaris. It will do 
 ambient/flash/multiple flash with both reflected and incident reading.  It's 
 accurate and is easier on the wallet.

 http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=shepherdN=0InitialSearch=yes

 I've been gearing up for something more rudimentary and cheaper than most of 
 what's been recommended here. I'd been thinking about a used Sekonic L-398, 
 then found I could get decent prices on new ones. Then a couple days ago I 
 came across the L-208, a simpler meter at half the price.

 I checked out reviews by buyers at BH and Adorama, and found that even 
 several pros thought highly of it. Construction is apparently not as solid as 
 some would like, but others found it plenty robust. With my $50 store credit 
 at Adorama from my rebate experience I could get it for about $50 with free 
 shipping. I figure if it breaks, or it's not what I hoped it would be, or I 
 lose it, I'm not out that much.

 I want a meter mainly to help me learn about exposure -- so maybe someday I 
 can learn to get along without a meter, as i understand some do. So, barring 
 any strong advice to the contrary, I'll probably place the order tomorrow.

 --
 Eric Weir
 Decatur, GA  USA

I thought about simple meters as well partly because of price, partly
because an old style meter is more classy near a C330 than a modern
one ;)
The thing is, I need a flashmeter anyway.

But thanks, it makes me think more which can't be bad.

-- 
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Photo: K-7, Sigma 28/1.8 macro, FA50/1.4, DA40Ltd, K30/2.8, DA16-45,
DA50-135, DA50-200, 360FGZ ...
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Re: [Need a (flash)meter] Mamiya C330 TLR arrived

2010-12-30 Thread Eric Weir

On Dec 30, 2010, at 6:13 AM, Thibouille wrote:

 I thought about simple meters as well partly because of price, partly
 because an old style meter is more classy near a C330 than a modern
 one ;)
 The thing is, I need a flashmeter anyway.
 
 But thanks, it makes me think more which can't be bad.

Your welcome, Thibouille. I'm back on the fence about the 398 vs. the 208. With 
my store credit the latter would be dirt cheap. And if I don't like it when I 
get it I guess I can return it.

Don't think too much. 

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Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: [Need a (flash)meter] Mamiya C330 TLR arrived

2010-12-30 Thread Darren Addy
You might look into Wein flashmeters for studiouse. They are plentiful
and cheap and easy to use. For on the run, you really don't need a
flashmeter for a single flash setup. I used to use the venerable
Vivitar 283 and 285s. Dial in your ASA/ISO and you have a range of
power settings that allow you to shoot anything under a given range at
a given aperture. If you are bouncing the light you will need to
compensate for the light loss, of course.

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Re: [Need a (flash)meter] Mamiya C330 TLR arrived

2010-12-30 Thread Thibouille
2010/12/30 Darren Addy pixelsmi...@gmail.com:
 You might look into Wein flashmeters for studiouse. They are plentiful
 and cheap and easy to use. For on the run, you really don't need a
 flashmeter for a single flash setup. I used to use the venerable
 Vivitar 283 and 285s. Dial in your ASA/ISO and you have a range of
 power settings that allow you to shoot anything under a given range at
 a given aperture. If you are bouncing the light you will need to
 compensate for the light loss, of course.

Never heard of those. Couldn't find any on Ebay either.
Can one find those in Europe ?

Yep, outside isn't much of a problem, indeed.
-- 
Thibault Massart aka Thibouille/Thibs
--
Photo: K-7, Sigma 28/1.8 macro, FA50/1.4, DA40Ltd, K30/2.8, DA16-45,
DA50-135, DA50-200, 360FGZ ...
Laptop: Macbook 13 Unibody SnowLeo/Win7
Programing: Delphi 2009

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Re: [Need a (flash)meter] Mamiya C330 TLR arrived

2010-12-30 Thread John Sessoms

http://www.weinproducts.com/Camera-Produdcts.html

From: Thibouille


2010/12/30 Darren Addy pixelsmi...@gmail.com:

 You might look into Wein flashmeters for studiouse. They are plentiful
 and cheap and easy to use. For on the run, you really don't need a
 flashmeter for a single flash setup. I used to use the venerable
 Vivitar 283 and 285s. Dial in your ASA/ISO and you have a range of
 power settings that allow you to shoot anything under a given range at
 a given aperture. If you are bouncing the light you will need to
 compensate for the light loss, of course.

Never heard of those. Couldn't find any on Ebay either.
Can one find those in Europe ?

Yep, outside isn't much of a problem, indeed.


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Re: [Need a (flash)meter] Mamiya C330 TLR arrived

2010-12-29 Thread David J Brooks
On Tue, Dec 28, 2010 at 12:29 AM, Thibouille pentaxl...@gmail.com wrote:

 Heard a lot of good from Minolta flashmeters (III,IV and V) as well.


I bought a used Minolta IV in 2001 and still use it. I think it works
well, has cable or no cable settings for flash and uses 1 AA battery.

Dave


 Really, a simple old CdS meter might be good enough for using outside
 with the C330? Or would a modern Sekonic/Gossen meter really add much
 more?

 Thanks
 --
 Thibault Massart aka Thibouille/Thibs
 --
 Photo: K-7, Sigma 28/1.8 macro, FA50/1.4, DA40Ltd, K30/2.8, DA16-45,
 DA50-135, DA50-200, 360FGZ ...
 Laptop: Macbook 13 Unibody SnowLeo/Win7
 Programing: Delphi 2009

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Documenting Life in Rural Ontario.
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Re: [Need a (flash)meter] Mamiya C330 TLR arrived

2010-12-29 Thread Eric Weir

On Dec 28, 2010, at 9:55 AM, Paul Sorenson wrote:

 I used a Gossen LunaSix when I had my studio and the major brands are always 
 a good bet.  That said, I currently use Shepherd/Polaris. It will do 
 ambient/flash/multiple flash with both reflected and incident reading.  It's 
 accurate and is easier on the wallet.
 
 http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=shepherdN=0InitialSearch=yes

I've been gearing up for something more rudimentary and cheaper than most of 
what's been recommended here. I'd been thinking about a used Sekonic L-398, 
then found I could get decent prices on new ones. Then a couple days ago I came 
across the L-208, a simpler meter at half the price. 

I checked out reviews by buyers at BH and Adorama, and found that even several 
pros thought highly of it. Construction is apparently not as solid as some 
would like, but others found it plenty robust. With my $50 store credit at 
Adorama from my rebate experience I could get it for about $50 with free 
shipping. I figure if it breaks, or it's not what I hoped it would be, or I 
lose it, I'm not out that much. 

I want a meter mainly to help me learn about exposure -- so maybe someday I can 
learn to get along without a meter, as i understand some do. So, barring any 
strong advice to the contrary, I'll probably place the order tomorrow.

--
Eric Weir
Decatur, GA  USA
eew...@bellsouth.net





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Re: [Need a (flash)meter] Mamiya C330 TLR arrived

2010-12-28 Thread Paul Sorenson
I used a Gossen LunaSix when I had my studio and the major brands are 
always a good bet.  That said, I currently use Shepherd/Polaris.  It 
will do ambient/flash/multiple flash with both reflected and incident 
reading.  It's accurate and is easier on the wallet.


http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=shepherdN=0InitialSearch=yes

http://tinyurl.com/2blve8w*


-p

*On 12/27/2010 11:29 PM, Thibouille wrote:

My TLR finally arrived, after it waited quite a bit in its box waiting
for snow to go away so the truck could actually deliver it (that was
so hard to wait...).
Although the camera needs a cleaning (expected) and a new focus screen
would be good as well, the urgent need is for a meter.
Of course I can use the K7 but that's not exactly that easy. If I can
avoid the bulk, I'll do it.

I have Studio flashes but have no Flashmeter which means trial
errors is a little annoying: a flashmeter would be a good thing.
But wouldn't using a modern flashmeter (and a C330 TLR) outside not
getting too much attention on me/the camera ?
A Sekonic 308/358 is fine at home but outside?

Maybe a second hand meter from Eekbay would be of any value (if those
still deliver any consistent results)?
Heard a lot of good from Minolta flashmeters (III,IV and V) as well.

Really, a simple old CdS meter might be good enough for using outside
with the C330? Or would a modern Sekonic/Gossen meter really add much
more?

Thanks



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Re: [Need a (flash)meter] Mamiya C330 TLR arrived

2010-12-28 Thread Thibouille
Didn't know about those. Thank you Paul.

2010/12/28 Paul Sorenson allarou...@earthlink.net:
 I used a Gossen LunaSix when I had my studio and the major brands are always
 a good bet.  That said, I currently use Shepherd/Polaris.  It will do
 ambient/flash/multiple flash with both reflected and incident reading.  It's
 accurate and is easier on the wallet.

 http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=shepherdN=0InitialSearch=yes

 http://tinyurl.com/2blve8w*


 -p

 *On 12/27/2010 11:29 PM, Thibouille wrote:

 My TLR finally arrived, after it waited quite a bit in its box waiting
 for snow to go away so the truck could actually deliver it (that was
 so hard to wait...).
 Although the camera needs a cleaning (expected) and a new focus screen
 would be good as well, the urgent need is for a meter.
 Of course I can use the K7 but that's not exactly that easy. If I can
 avoid the bulk, I'll do it.

 I have Studio flashes but have no Flashmeter which means trial
 errors is a little annoying: a flashmeter would be a good thing.
 But wouldn't using a modern flashmeter (and a C330 TLR) outside not
 getting too much attention on me/the camera ?
 A Sekonic 308/358 is fine at home but outside?

 Maybe a second hand meter from Eekbay would be of any value (if those
 still deliver any consistent results)?
 Heard a lot of good from Minolta flashmeters (III,IV and V) as well.

 Really, a simple old CdS meter might be good enough for using outside
 with the C330? Or would a modern Sekonic/Gossen meter really add much
 more?

 Thanks


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-- 
Thibault Massart aka Thibouille/Thibs
--
Photo: K-7, Sigma 28/1.8 macro, FA50/1.4, DA40Ltd, K30/2.8, DA16-45,
DA50-135, DA50-200, 360FGZ ...
Laptop: Macbook 13 Unibody SnowLeo/Win7
Programing: Delphi 2009

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RE: [Need a (flash)meter] Mamiya C330 TLR arrived

2010-12-28 Thread John Sessoms

From: Thibouille


My TLR finally arrived, after it waited quite a bit in its box waiting
for snow to go away so the truck could actually deliver it (that was
so hard to wait...).
Although the camera needs a cleaning (expected) and a new focus screen
would be good as well, the urgent need is for a meter.
Of course I can use the K7 but that's not exactly that easy. If I can
avoid the bulk, I'll do it.

I have Studio flashes but have no Flashmeter which means trial 
errors is a little annoying: a flashmeter would be a good thing.
But wouldn't using a modern flashmeter (and a C330 TLR) outside not
getting too much attention on me/the camera ?
A Sekonic 308/358 is fine at home but outside?

Maybe a second hand meter from Eekbay would be of any value (if those
still deliver any consistent results)?
Heard a lot of good from Minolta flashmeters (III,IV and V) as well.

Really, a simple old CdS meter might be good enough for using outside
with the C330? Or would a modern Sekonic/Gossen meter really add much
more?



I have found the Sekonic L-408 Multimaster meter to be an excellent all 
around meter.


It does ambient, flash (cord  cordless), and reflected light metering 
using a 5 deg spot viewfinder. It's water resistant.


The lumisphere retracts for contrast measurement, and it has multi-flash 
capability for measuring cumulative flash exposure.


Powered by a single 1.5v AA battery.

Plus they don't usually cost as much as some meters with less capability.

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[Need a (flash)meter] Mamiya C330 TLR arrived

2010-12-27 Thread Thibouille
My TLR finally arrived, after it waited quite a bit in its box waiting
for snow to go away so the truck could actually deliver it (that was
so hard to wait...).
Although the camera needs a cleaning (expected) and a new focus screen
would be good as well, the urgent need is for a meter.
Of course I can use the K7 but that's not exactly that easy. If I can
avoid the bulk, I'll do it.

I have Studio flashes but have no Flashmeter which means trial 
errors is a little annoying: a flashmeter would be a good thing.
But wouldn't using a modern flashmeter (and a C330 TLR) outside not
getting too much attention on me/the camera ?
A Sekonic 308/358 is fine at home but outside?

Maybe a second hand meter from Eekbay would be of any value (if those
still deliver any consistent results)?
Heard a lot of good from Minolta flashmeters (III,IV and V) as well.

Really, a simple old CdS meter might be good enough for using outside
with the C330? Or would a modern Sekonic/Gossen meter really add much
more?

Thanks
-- 
Thibault Massart aka Thibouille/Thibs
--
Photo: K-7, Sigma 28/1.8 macro, FA50/1.4, DA40Ltd, K30/2.8, DA16-45,
DA50-135, DA50-200, 360FGZ ...
Laptop: Macbook 13 Unibody SnowLeo/Win7
Programing: Delphi 2009

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Re: [Need a (flash)meter] Mamiya C330 TLR arrived

2010-12-27 Thread Larry Colen

On Dec 27, 2010, at 9:29 PM, Thibouille wrote:
 
 
 Really, a simple old CdS meter might be good enough for using outside
 with the C330? Or would a modern Sekonic/Gossen meter really add much
 more?

Why not just use your Pentax DSLR as a flash meter?  Dial the exposure in on 
the pentax, then set the aperture on the meter based on what chimping and 
reading the histograms tells you.


--
Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est





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RE: [Need a (flash)meter] Mamiya C330 TLR arrived

2010-12-27 Thread John Coyle
Thibault, I have a Gossen Lunasix 3 which I use with my Rolleicord: if you
find one, you should check that the adaptor for use with mercury batteries
has been installed otherwise you will not get accurate readings.  It's very
easy to use, and gives both incident light( if the incident light cone is in
place) or direct readings.  You really don't necessarily need a modern one -
any older one that is undamaged should give you good readings.

HTH


John Coyle
Brisbane, Australia




-Original Message-
From: pdml-boun...@pdml.net [mailto:pdml-boun...@pdml.net] On Behalf Of
Thibouille
Sent: Tuesday, 28 December 2010 3:29 PM
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List
Subject: [Need a (flash)meter] Mamiya C330 TLR arrived

My TLR finally arrived, after it waited quite a bit in its box waiting for
snow to go away so the truck could actually deliver it (that was so hard to
wait...).
Although the camera needs a cleaning (expected) and a new focus screen would
be good as well, the urgent need is for a meter.
Of course I can use the K7 but that's not exactly that easy. If I can avoid
the bulk, I'll do it.

I have Studio flashes but have no Flashmeter which means trial  errors is a
little annoying: a flashmeter would be a good thing.
But wouldn't using a modern flashmeter (and a C330 TLR) outside not getting
too much attention on me/the camera ?
A Sekonic 308/358 is fine at home but outside?

Maybe a second hand meter from Eekbay would be of any value (if those still
deliver any consistent results)?
Heard a lot of good from Minolta flashmeters (III,IV and V) as well.

Really, a simple old CdS meter might be good enough for using outside with
the C330? Or would a modern Sekonic/Gossen meter really add much more?

Thanks
--
Thibault Massart aka Thibouille/Thibs
--
Photo: K-7, Sigma 28/1.8 macro, FA50/1.4, DA40Ltd, K30/2.8, DA16-45,
DA50-135, DA50-200, 360FGZ ...
Laptop: Macbook 13 Unibody SnowLeo/Win7
Programing: Delphi 2009

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FS: Pentax Program Plus, M-50/2, M-135/3.5, flash meter REDUCED AGAIN!!

2010-09-03 Thread Nick Wright
Hi all, it's me again.

Pentax Program Plus, M 50mm f/2, M 135 f/3.5, Novatron flash meter.
Everything is in great shape. Haven't used the flash meter in about 10
years, but has been stored without battery should still be fine.

$50 for the whole kit and kaboodle. $10 shipping to the US.

Drop me a line.

~Nick

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FS: Pentax Program Plus, M-50/2, M-135/3.5, flash meter REDUCED

2010-08-20 Thread Nick Wright
For sale:

Pentax Program Plus SLR. $15.

Pentax M-50mm f/2. $10.

Pentax M-135mm f/3.5 $30.

Novatron FM02 flash meter. $15.

Camera and lenses are in good working and cosmetic shape. Flash meter
worked fine, but I haven't used it in about 10 years. Pictures
available upon request.

Paypal only.

I'd take $60 for the whole lot including USPS shipping to the lower
48. International shipping would be extra.

~Nick Wright

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Re: FS: Program Plus, 50mm, 135mm, flash meter, domke bag

2010-07-31 Thread Nick Wright
Really, really want to sell this stuff.

Anyone interested in taking it all for $80 plus shipping?

On Fri, Jul 30, 2010 at 8:23 AM, Nick Wright nickwright1...@gmail.com wrote:
 I've got for sale a:

 Pentax Program Plus SLR. $25.

 Pentax M-50mm f/2. $20.

 Pentax M-135mm f/3.5 $40.

 Novatron FM02 flash meter. $20.

 Domke F-803 satchel-style camera bag. Navy, well-used but still in
 good shape. $25.

 Make me an offer!!

 Camera and lenses are in good working and cosmetic shape. Flash meter
 worked fine, but I haven't used it in about 10 years. Selling because
 there are now no local film developing labs (even WalMart took out
 their film lab last month). I'm just too lazy to do it myself, and not
 interested in shipping my films in the mail.

 Really want to sell the stuff. Make me an offer. Just tired of if
 taking up my very limited space.

 Shipping extra Paypal only. US only.


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FS: Program Plus, 50mm, 135mm, flash meter, domke bag

2010-07-30 Thread Nick Wright
I've got for sale a:

Pentax Program Plus SLR. $25.

Pentax M-50mm f/2. $20.

Pentax M-135mm f/3.5 $40.

Novatron FM02 flash meter. $20.

Domke F-803 satchel-style camera bag. Navy, well-used but still in
good shape. $25.

Make me an offer!!

Camera and lenses are in good working and cosmetic shape. Flash meter
worked fine, but I haven't used it in about 10 years. Selling because
there are now no local film developing labs (even WalMart took out
their film lab last month). I'm just too lazy to do it myself, and not
interested in shipping my films in the mail.

Really want to sell the stuff. Make me an offer. Just tired of if
taking up my very limited space.

Shipping extra Paypal only. US only.

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Re: Flash meter recommedations

2006-02-12 Thread David Mann

On Feb 12, 2006, at 12:17 PM, Mark Roberts wrote:


Sekonic L-358
I believe spot metering attachments are available as accessories.


The accessory is the L-358VF I think.  I have one here but it's been  
ages since I actually used it.


- Dave




Re: Flash meter recommedations - OUTCOME

2006-02-12 Thread Kevin Waterson
This one time, at band camp, David Savage [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


  $400-500
 
  Kevin
 
 If I thought I'd use it enough I'd get the Sekonic L558.

So taking this to mind, I launched myself at eBay and came up the winner on this
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=7587998373

Thanks to all for suggestions,

Kind regards
Kevin

-- 
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. 
Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.



Re: Flash meter recommedations - OUTCOME

2006-02-12 Thread David Savage
You should be happy with it.

Dave

On 2/12/06, Kevin Waterson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 This one time, at band camp, David Savage [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

   $400-500
  
   Kevin
 
  If I thought I'd use it enough I'd get the Sekonic L558.

 So taking this to mind, I launched myself at eBay and came up the winner on 
 this
 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=7587998373

 Thanks to all for suggestions,

 Kind regards
 Kevin

 --
 Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch.
 Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.





Re: Flash meter recommedations - OUTCOME

2006-02-12 Thread Bob Shell

Good choice, Kevin.  You'll love it.

Bob

On Feb 12, 2006, at 6:16 AM, Kevin Waterson wrote:


This one time, at band camp, David Savage [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



$400-500

Kevin


If I thought I'd use it enough I'd get the Sekonic L558.


So taking this to mind, I launched myself at eBay and came up the  
winner on this

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=7587998373

Thanks to all for suggestions,

Kind regards
Kevin

--
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch.
Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.





Flash meter recommedations

2006-02-11 Thread Kevin Waterson
I am looking for a flash meter to do two things.
1) normal flash metering.
2) I need a spot attachment to read the reflective reading from the backdrop
   when the flash is fired.

Any and all suggestions welcomed
Kind regards
Kevin

-- 
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. 
Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.



Re: Flash meter recommedations

2006-02-11 Thread Mark Roberts
Kevin Waterson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I am looking for a flash meter to do two things.
1) normal flash metering.
2) I need a spot attachment to read the reflective reading from the backdrop
   when the flash is fired.

Sekonic L-358 
I believe spot metering attachments are available as accessories.
 
 
-- 
Mark Roberts
Photography and writing
www.robertstech.com



Re: Flash meter recommedations

2006-02-11 Thread Bob Shell


On Feb 11, 2006, at 5:39 PM, Kevin Waterson wrote:


I am looking for a flash meter to do two things.
1) normal flash metering.
2) I need a spot attachment to read the reflective reading from the  
backdrop

   when the flash is fired.

Any and all suggestions welcomed



Budget?

Bob



Re: Flash meter recommedations

2006-02-11 Thread William Robb


- Original Message - 
From: Kevin Waterson

Subject: Flash meter recommedations



I am looking for a flash meter to do two things.
1) normal flash metering.
2) I need a spot attachment to read the reflective reading from the 
backdrop

  when the flash is fired.

Any and all suggestions welcomed


If you use a DSLR, use it.
The histogram thingies work.

William Robb 





Re: Flash meter recommedations

2006-02-11 Thread Bob Shell


On Feb 11, 2006, at 6:35 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Sekonic L308B-II
About $100 used.
Flash  ambient metering.
Standard battery.
Small, lightweight.



No spot feature.  I think he said he needed that.

I use and recommend the L-558 .  That's why I asked him his budget.

Bob



Re: Flash meter recommedations

2006-02-11 Thread Kevin Waterson
This one time, at band camp, Bob Shell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Budget?
 
 Bob

$400-500

Kevin
-- 
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. 
Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.



Re: Flash meter recommedations

2006-02-11 Thread Kevin Waterson
This one time, at band camp, William Robb [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 If you use a DSLR, use it.
 The histogram thingies work.

Using 6x7

Kind regards
Kevin

-- 
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. 
Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.



Re: Flash meter recommedations

2006-02-11 Thread David Savage
On 2/12/06, Kevin Waterson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 This one time, at band camp, Bob Shell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  Budget?
 
  Bob

 $400-500

 Kevin

If I thought I'd use it enough I'd get the Sekonic L558.

Dave



Re: Flash meter recommedations

2006-02-11 Thread William Robb


- Original Message - 
From: Kevin Waterson

Subject: Re: Flash meter recommedations



This one time, at band camp, William Robb [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


If you use a DSLR, use it.
The histogram thingies work.


Using 6x7


I remember film.
I use a Minolta IIIF in the studio.
It ain't fancy, but it doesn't have to be.

William Robb 





RE: flash meter opinions

2005-08-07 Thread Jens Bladt
I use an old Gossen Lunasix F. It's quite accurate.
A used on e woild probably cost less than 100 USD.
Why do you want 5 degrees?


Jens Bladt
Arkitekt MAA
http://hjem.get2net.dk/bladt


-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: Godfrey DiGiorgi [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sendt: 3. august 2005 16:09
Til: PDML
Emne: Re: flash meter opinions


On Aug 3, 2005, at 6:59 AM, Kevin Waterson wrote:
 I was looking at buying a new flash meter
 needs to read flash incident reading and
 flash reflective readings. About 5 degrees.
 Any suggestions or horror stories greatfully recieved


The meter I like most is the Sekonic L358. Nice big incident dome,  
spot metering attachments for 1, 5 or 10 degrees.

Godfrey




Re: flash meter opinions

2005-08-07 Thread Kevin Waterson
This one time, at band camp, Jens Bladt [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I use an old Gossen Lunasix F. It's quite accurate.
 A used on e woild probably cost less than 100 USD.
 Why do you want 5 degrees?

I wish to measure the fall off of reflected light across background
when a flash is used. eg: if I measure the incident reading at
8.0 I then wish to know what the reflected light is. This will
change of course depending on the color of background material.

Kind regards
Kevin


-- 
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. 
Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.



flash meter opinions

2005-08-03 Thread Kevin Waterson
I was looking at buying a new flash meter
needs to read flash incident reading and
flash reflective readings. About 5 degrees.
Any suggestions or horror stories greatfully recieved

Kind regards
Kevin

-- 
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. 
Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.



Re: flash meter opinions

2005-08-03 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi

On Aug 3, 2005, at 6:59 AM, Kevin Waterson wrote:

I was looking at buying a new flash meter
needs to read flash incident reading and
flash reflective readings. About 5 degrees.
Any suggestions or horror stories greatfully recieved



The meter I like most is the Sekonic L358. Nice big incident dome,  
spot metering attachments for 1, 5 or 10 degrees.


Godfrey



Re: Minolta Flash Meter III instructions

2004-03-22 Thread Bill Owens
If it's the Auto Meter III F, I was able to download a manual from the
Minolta website.

Bill

- Original Message - 
From: Christian [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 12:33 PM
Subject: OT: Minolta Flash Meter III instructions


 Anyone have an instruction book for this meter?  I just bought one off
KEH.
 It works great, but I want to make sure I am using it correctly and to its
 full potential.  I'm hoping someone could photocopy or scan it and send it
 to me.

 TIA

 Christian






Re: OT: Minolta Flash Meter III instructions

2004-03-22 Thread Bill Owens
Christian,

Try this link

http://www.minoltausa.com/eprise/main/MinoltaUSA/MUSAContent/CPG/CPG_SupportCenter/ManualResults

Bill
- Original Message - 
From: Christian [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 2:16 PM
Subject: Re: OT: Minolta Flash Meter III instructions


 While I appreciate your answers, the first thing I did was search google
and
 Minolta's website (before asking the list).  Unfortunately, Minolta does
not
 support its old products the way Pentax does.  The Flash Meter III was not
 available for download from Minolta.

 Sure, I can buy a photocopy, but I was trying to be cheap and hope that
 someone on this great list would have it available, much as I have made
 various manuals available for my fellow list-members when Pentax did not
 have them.  To be honest, except for postage, I am not willing to for it.

 Thanks again.

 Christian

 - Original Message - 
 From: Michel Carrère-Gée [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 12:48 PM
 Subject: Re: OT: Minolta Flash Meter III instructions


  Christian a écrit :
 
  Anyone have an instruction book for this meter?  I just bought one off
 KEH.
  It works great, but I want to make sure I am using it correctly and to
 its
  full potential.  I'm hoping someone could photocopy or scan it and send
 it
  to me.
  
  
  Google say me:
  http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=001apM
 

http://www.minoltausa.com/eprise/main/MinoltaUSA/MUSAContent/CPG/CPG_SupportCenter/ManualResults
 






Re: Minolta Flash Meter III instructions

2004-03-22 Thread Christian
It is not the auto meter III F.  It is the Flash Meter III. The controls and
functions are very different between the two.

Thanks!

Christian

- Original Message - 
From: Bill Owens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: Minolta Flash Meter III instructions


 If it's the Auto Meter III F, I was able to download a manual from the
 Minolta website.

 Bill

 - Original Message - 
 From: Christian [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 12:33 PM
 Subject: OT: Minolta Flash Meter III instructions


  Anyone have an instruction book for this meter?  I just bought one off
 KEH.
  It works great, but I want to make sure I am using it correctly and to
its
  full potential.  I'm hoping someone could photocopy or scan it and send
it
  to me.
 
  TIA
 
  Christian
 
 





Re: OT: Minolta Flash Meter III instructions

2004-03-22 Thread Christian
The link would be great if I had anything but the Flash Meter III! :-(

Christian

- Original Message - 
From: Bill Owens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 4:34 PM
Subject: Re: OT: Minolta Flash Meter III instructions


 Christian,

 Try this link


http://www.minoltausa.com/eprise/main/MinoltaUSA/MUSAContent/CPG/CPG_SupportCenter/ManualResults

 Bill
 - Original Message - 
 From: Christian [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 2:16 PM
 Subject: Re: OT: Minolta Flash Meter III instructions


  While I appreciate your answers, the first thing I did was search google
 and
  Minolta's website (before asking the list).  Unfortunately, Minolta does
 not
  support its old products the way Pentax does.  The Flash Meter III was
not
  available for download from Minolta.
 
  Sure, I can buy a photocopy, but I was trying to be cheap and hope that
  someone on this great list would have it available, much as I have made
  various manuals available for my fellow list-members when Pentax did not
  have them.  To be honest, except for postage, I am not willing to for
it.
 
  Thanks again.
 
  Christian
 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Michel Carrère-Gée [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 12:48 PM
  Subject: Re: OT: Minolta Flash Meter III instructions
 
 
   Christian a écrit :
  
   Anyone have an instruction book for this meter?  I just bought one
off
  KEH.
   It works great, but I want to make sure I am using it correctly and
to
  its
   full potential.  I'm hoping someone could photocopy or scan it and
send
  it
   to me.
   
   
   Google say me:
   http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=001apM
  
 

http://www.minoltausa.com/eprise/main/MinoltaUSA/MUSAContent/CPG/CPG_SupportCenter/ManualResults
  
 
 





Flash meter

2002-07-12 Thread Stephen Hoffman

I'm new to the subject of studio flash.  I have two strobes rated at 220
watt seconds each but they didn't really come with instructions for a novice
such as myself.  They mentioned a guide number of 165 and said for example
that if the subject is 10 feet away then divide 165 by 10 to arrive at an f
stop of 16.5.  Simple enough.  But I have two strobes.  Surely that affects
things.  I have shot several rolls of film that have not produced any
consistent results.  Several questions:
I assume I will need to buy a flash meter.  Looking at these I see that you
fire a test flash at the meter and it gives you an appropriate f stop which
is great but what would be the shutter speed?  The sync speed on my Pentax
645NII is 1/60 but how does the flash meter know that?  And what if I used a
different shutter speed?
Any suggestions on a simple yet inexpensive flash meter?  I see some of them
cost more than many cameras!
I have a Pentax 645NII.  I need a hot shoe adaptor to connect to the
strobes.  Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Stephen
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Re: Flash meter

2002-07-12 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Stephen Hoffman
Subject: Flash meter


 I assume I will need to buy a flash meter.  Looking at these I
see that you
 fire a test flash at the meter and it gives you an appropriate
f stop which
 is great but what would be the shutter speed?  The sync speed
on my Pentax
 645NII is 1/60 but how does the flash meter know that?

The flash meter doesn't care what the shutter speed is. All it
meters is the flash output. Some of them can be set up to meter
ambient in addition to the flash, but that is something that you
don't really need to think about in the studio.

And what if I used a
 different shutter speed?

Go over your sync speed and you will get the typical flach sync
failure. Go to far under and you may start to see the modeling
lights.
Just shoot at sync and all will be well.

 Any suggestions on a simple yet inexpensive flash meter?  I
see some of them
 cost more than many cameras!

I use an old Minolta IIIF which is very nice, and may be
available used for cheap, as they have been around for a while.
I operate on the KISS system, so I would get the simplest meter
I could get. I find many of them to complicated for what is a
very simple measurement.

 I have a Pentax 645NII.  I need a hot shoe adaptor to connect
to the
 strobes.  Any suggestions?

They don't put a PC socket on that camera? I thought it was
supposed to be a PRO camera.
HAMA makes a hot shoe to PC socket adaptor that is quite cheap.

 Thanks in advance for any help.

Yer welcome
William Robb
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Re: Flash meter

2002-07-12 Thread ERNReed

In a message dated 7/12/2002 4:38:55 PM Central Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 I have a Pentax 645NII.  I need a hot shoe adaptor to connect to the
 strobes.  Any suggestions?
 

Why not just plug them into the X-sync socket on the side of the camera 
instead of getting a hot shoe adapter?

ERNR
My photographs hang on the virtual walls at http://members.aol.com/ernreed
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RE: Flash meter

2002-07-12 Thread Stephen Hoffman

Dopey me, I guess I didn't think of that!  Thanks to you and William Robb
for pointing that out.  Hey, I never said I knew what I was doing.

Stephen

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2002 3:46 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Flash meter

In a message dated 7/12/2002 4:38:55 PM Central Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 I have a Pentax 645NII.  I need a hot shoe adaptor to connect to the
 strobes.  Any suggestions?


Why not just plug them into the X-sync socket on the side of the camera
instead of getting a hot shoe adapter?

ERNR
My photographs hang on the virtual walls at http://members.aol.com/ernreed
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Re: flash meter test

2002-06-07 Thread Anthony Farr

The maximum power isn't as important in this circumstance as is the
minimum power setting.  A 640ws or more flash, if it gave 1/16 or smaller
minimum output, would IMO be OK.  You would never regret the highest power
and would always find an occasion when even more would be useful.  To
illustrate my point, when I was a wage slave I used a 6000ws pack driving a
single 2m x 1m softbox, plus a 3200ws pack with 2 flash-heads, plus up to 4
additional 800ws monobloc heads.  Even with all that power on tap there were
many occasions when multi-flashing was required to get f22 or f32 at ISO64.

OTOH my personal Multiblitz kit was made especially for portraiture and has
three monobloc heads at 180 ws each which is plenty for an f8 single or
double portrait at ISO100.  But as general purpose units they are not so
good because they only offer two power settings, full and half.  My kit is
stretched to photograph a group of 10 to 20, and even then I'm either
putting two heads together to act as one light source, or reverting to the
polished dish reflector at the main-light position, which is harder than I
like for people photos.

So my advice is to get the most powerful unit you can afford that also gives
you a small minimum power setting.  Perhaps you should investigate a
pack/head combo around 800ws to 1200ws.  If money was tight you could get
started with a single flash-head but you would then have the option of
getting additional heads for less money than additional monobloc heads would
cost, up to the limit of the power pack which is usually 3 or 4 heads.

To stay on-topic, all my 35mm shots lit by the Multiblitz's were taken with
Pentaxes, and when I moonlighted at work I would use my own cameras,
Pentaxes of course.

Regards,
Anthony Farr


- Original Message -
From: Brendan [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 just to see how I may be able to light my basement and
 I was so
 surprised. withthe Af500 and achiever on slave, the
 330 on camera then
 manually fired, the result at 400 iso was F22!!
 white walls
 reflect ALOT. I guess a 640ws flash is way too much
 power to start
 with, and I'm better off with a 320 ws unit, but still
 the price
 difference doesn't seem to be worth it.
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Re: flash meter test

2002-06-07 Thread Brendan

true, but it was a test, with 100 speed it would be
around f8 . I
would still want the higher powered unit since I will
be doing some
location work.

--- Pat White [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 In a studio setting, with all the light you need,
 why use 400-speed film?  100-speed will give you
 better color, finer grain, and more f-stop
 flexibility.  Only use high-speed film when you have
 to, or if you like the look.
 
 Pat White
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flash meter test

2002-06-05 Thread Brendan

just to see how I may be able to light my basement and
I was so
surprised. withthe Af500 and achiever on slave, the
330 on camera then
manually fired, the result at 400 iso was F22!!
white walls
reflect ALOT. I guess a 640ws flash is way too much
power to start
with, and I'm better off with a 320 ws unit, but still
the price
difference doesn't seem to be worth it.

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Using flash meter with TTL flash was Halogen again

2002-03-09 Thread Brendan

The Halogen lights seem fine for BW work even with
it's yellowish
cast. It has dawned on me that I have more than enough
light with an
AF500FTZ, AF330FTZ and achiever flash. I only have an
older minolta
auto meter III which does not have flash metering but
how would one
use a flash meter with TTL? Won't the TTL adjust flash
out put maing
the meter reading inaccurate? I know that with the
AF500 set to slave
and the Achiever set to auto flash with a slave eye I
can calculate
the exposure but how will it affect the AF330 on
camera in TTL? I have
a large 42 5 in one reflector to bounce with and I
have the stofen
omni bounce for the AF500 ( which is rather soft both
bounced and
direct ). I experimented and manually calculated the
settings withthe
other 2 flashes yes with the AF330 on camera I don't
get the good
exposure indication ( 1/60  F8 ) but it still exposes
correctly
since I calculated the output of the other 2 flashes.
I'm very tempted
to get another AF500, an umbrella and a flash meter to
have a portable
lighting setup ( or an alien bee and very long
extension cord ). The
recharge time with the AF500 and nimh batteries is
about 3 sec at 1/2
power for 120 flashes so that doesn't seem to be an
issue.


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Re: Flash meter

2001-12-04 Thread MZ3_fella _

Minolta Flash Meter IV - look for one second hand. Definitely hard to beat.

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Flash meter

2001-12-03 Thread Andy Vu

Dear list,
I need your recommendation about flash meter, which one
should I buy not too expensive? My set right now is pz1p and AF500-FTZ
Regards,
Andy
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Re: Flash meter

2001-12-03 Thread Brendan

Minolta flash meter IV, I'm getting one just after
Xmas, sells for about $300 CAD, or $190 usd 

--- Andy Vu [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Dear list,
 I need your recommendation about flash
 meter, which one
 should I buy not too expensive? My set right now is
 pz1p and AF500-FTZ
 Regards,
 Andy
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Re: Flash meter

2001-12-03 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Monday, December 3, 2001, at 05:53  PM, Andy Vu wrote:

 Dear list,
 I need your recommendation about flash meter, which one
 should I buy not too expensive?

Are you looking for new or used?  I'm a huge fan of the Sekonic L-308b, 
a nice, small, well-laid-out meter.  I've also been impressed by the 
Gossen Sixtomat Flash -- I don't like its handling as much as I like the 
Sekonic, but the Sixtomat will do multiple-pop flash exposure and also 
exposure range.  Both are semi-useful (the multiple-pop exposure is easy 
to do in your head if your meter doesn't offer it, and exposure range 
simply requires you to remember things and use subtraction, but both are 
nice to not have to think about).

Both of these guys are rather spendy new.  The Sekonic was $279 CDN last 
time I checked, and the Gossen is $329.  The Sekonic L-308b seems fairly 
common on the Toronto used market, don't know about the Gossen.

-Aaron
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Re: Flash meter

2001-12-03 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

I will second Aaron's opinion on the Sekonic L208b. Mine has been stone
reliable since I bought it used several years ago. Also it seems to be the
most pocketable ambiant/flash meter around. Don't think that doesn't matter,
a meter in your pocket is far more useful than one in the car a half mile
away.

Ciao,
--graywolf



- Original Message -
From: Aaron Reynolds [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 03, 2001 7:07 PM
Subject: Re: Flash meter


 On Monday, December 3, 2001, at 05:53  PM, Andy Vu wrote:

  Dear list,
  I need your recommendation about flash meter, which one
  should I buy not too expensive?

 Are you looking for new or used?  I'm a huge fan of the Sekonic L-308b,
 a nice, small, well-laid-out meter.  I've also been impressed by the
 Gossen Sixtomat Flash -- I don't like its handling as much as I like the
 Sekonic, but the Sixtomat will do multiple-pop flash exposure and also
 exposure range.  Both are semi-useful (the multiple-pop exposure is easy
 to do in your head if your meter doesn't offer it, and exposure range
 simply requires you to remember things and use subtraction, but both are
 nice to not have to think about).

 Both of these guys are rather spendy new.  The Sekonic was $279 CDN last
 time I checked, and the Gossen is $329.  The Sekonic L-308b seems fairly
 common on the Toronto used market, don't know about the Gossen.

 -Aaron
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