Re: OT: Matting & Framing
Unless it is a special presentation piece or something like that, I mat and frame all my own prints. Back when I was trying to do the art fairs etc, I quickly relized that there was just no way you could pay someone to mat and frame your work and still sell it at a competitive price. But then, I was doing large quantities of matted prints. I more or less quit doing galleries and shows a few years ago, but almost everything that I did in those venues I framed myself - again, the economics drives the decision. It took a class and some practice but it is not hard to cut simple rectangular mats. I use a mid sized Logan mat cutter and it works fine for up to 30 inch mats. It can handle up to 48 inch mats but you have to remove some of the guides (and be very careful.) If you are going to do quantity do it yourself - but give yourself ample time to learn how to do it. Like plan on a few dozen practice mat cuts that will go in the waste bin.Get some cheap mat board and start cutting. After that, you should be able to get more keepers than tossers, and after a few hundred mat cuts the tossers should be few. It's like riding a bike - once you know how to do it, you won't forget. So in the long run it is a worthwhile skill for anyone interested in exhibiting prints. I frame with simple black or silver metal or pre-cut wood frames. Back in the day I bought mat board from documounts.com and frames in bulk from lightimpressions.com, but I have no idea what current vendors are out there. At my present rate of consumption I have years worth of mats and frames on hand, and I just run to Hobby Lobby when I need something I don't have. The frames from Light Impressions were of much much better quality than what I get form Hobby Lobby these days, but cost more. FWIY. But if I really like a print for my own use I still go to a local frame shop. MCC On 6/25/2012 8:29 PM, Ed Keeney wrote: Now that the latest PDML book has been published (and it looks great; mine was ordered today), I have a question for the masses. In 2010 my print was hung in the DANK haus gallery with many of the other entries. I still have that print hanging on my wall here at home. Last year, I had my entry printed, mounted and framed by MPIX. They did a really nice job. This year I was thinking of handling the matting and framing myself. Nothing fancy or out of the ordinary, but possibly working with my local Blicks to get it together. I am thinking of going 16x20 for the print with a 2" border for the mat. This would make the frame 20x24. I have a ton of questions. But I think I can work out most of them with the team at Blicks. For those who do their own matting and framing, is it worth the effort? I'm thinking if this works out well, I might print, frame and hang more shots. Is there a simple step-by-step process you follow? To start with, my local Craigslist has 2 Logan mat cutters listed for around $50 so the initial investment shouldn't be too much. I'll need the print, the mat and then the frame itself (this is probably the largest expense). Overall, I'm expecting it to be less than the cost of getting it printed and framed somewhere else. What do you think? Thanks! Ed http://picasaweb.google.com/ewkphoto http://www.flickr.com/photos/edkeeney/ -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: OT: Matting & Framing
on 2012-06-28 24:01 Joseph McAllister wrote What ever happened to Dry Mount Presses? my dad used a large Seal press for years; i think it is still in his darkroom one mounting technique he used was to mount a trimmed print directly to a larger square of heavy mat board (not sure whether he used a dry mount press or something else), then he placed glass directly on top and neatly sealed the edges with white tape (not sure the type) so that only about 3mm of tape wraps to the front i dislike the idea of pressing the glass directly onto the print and i'd be much more cautious with inkjet prints, but several fiber prints he mounted this way in the 60s are still fine; the tape must not be archival because it has yellowed slightly, and it has become brittle enough that we have to be careful — linen tape would probably have prevented this — but the presentation is still excellent -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: OT: Matting & Framing
From: Joseph McAllister What ever happened to Dry Mount Presses? 15 years ago they were still too expensive for me to buy a used 20-24" model. Did they stop making the wax on both side paper they used? Did everyone throw away their tacking irons with the teflon coating? I know from experience that they are not permanent, though I still have the prints from my final exam show in 1970. Last time I looked at them, and many of the other prints I mounted in the late 60s and early 70s, few were starting to curl at the edges 40 years later. Anyone still use one? I still *have* one (20x24). I bought it second hand in 2005. And I have the mounting tissue in the refrigerator along with a bunch of film & photo paper that I will probably never get to use. It's been over a year since I last used it. I had it set up in my apartment while I was at school, but my house is so full of clutter I don't have a place to set it up here. One problem with dry mounting is you have to be very careful & use an *expensive* special Teflon coated release paper when dry mounting inkjet prints. While it's not cheaper for me to take prints to a frame shop to be mounted, frequently it's a lot more convenient than doing it myself. I enjoy cutting my own mats. I compromise by having the frame shop mount the prints and finish matting and framing them myself. Right now my problem is making a photograph I feel is worth framing. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: OT: Matting & Framing
On Thu, Jun 28, 2012 at 2:01 AM, Joseph McAllister wrote: > What ever happened to Dry Mount Presses? A lot of digital people here in Columbus still use them for mounting. Flat is better looking than loose. They don't sell for what they used to, but they still sell. I have an 11x14 unit that I use on occasion. Sincerely, Collin Brendemuehl "He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose" -- Jim Elliott -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: OT: Matting & Framing
On Thu, Jun 28, 2012 at 2:01 AM, Joseph McAllister wrote: > What ever happened to Dry Mount Presses? I always found them to be most essential for FB papers, which warped and curled severely. I never used dry mounting for RC papers... I used photo corners instead. I suspect the decline of the dry mount press is tied to the decline of FB wet-chemistry papers. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: OT: Matting & Framing
What ever happened to Dry Mount Presses? 15 years ago they were still too expensive for me to buy a used 20-24" model. Did they stop making the wax on both side paper they used? Did everyone throw away their tacking irons with the teflon coating? I know from experience that they are not permanent, though I still have the prints from my final exam show in 1970. Last time I looked at them, and many of the other prints I mounted in the late 60s and early 70s, few were starting to curl at the edges 40 years later. Anyone still use one? On Jun 27, 2012, at 00:30 , David Mann wrote: > On Jun 27, 2012, at 5:08 AM, Igor Roshchin wrote: > >> Just in case it would useful, some ideas on mounting prints on the board: >> For mounting canvas prints (especially those that didn't have much >> empty margin around the print), I've used foam (aka foam-core?) board >> with self-adhesive surface. I bought it rather inexpensively (within $10 >> for about 20"x30" piece) at a local art-supply store. They are rather >> expensive via mail (and usually, you have to buy a pack of 10) > > I used to frame my own pictures but gave up in the end because it was fiddly > and some materials were hard to find - especially the mouldings where I had > to deal with warped "seconds" unless I wanted to buy about a mile of a single > style. > > I'd have just about killed for foam board with a self-adhesive surface as > long as it gave you plenty of working time before it set. But I've never > even heard of the stuff until now. I just used standard foam core. > > I started out using photo-mounting "dots" sold by stationery stores but they > didn't hold the print flat so you could see the waviness under certain > lighting conditions. I'm too fussy to put up with that. > > I then tried acid-free glue but you could see where the lines of glue were > and it started to set very quickly so any attempt to spread it resulted in a > messy disaster. > > Eventually I found a product called Rollataq which has a hand-held roller > where the handle is filled with glue. My local art supplies shop was able to > order one for me. > > http://www.daige.com/rollataq.htm > > It's designed to spread the glue uniformly over the whole surface and you > have a few minutes to get everything positioned before it starts to set. It > worked very well and I had plenty of time to position the print. > > Once the print was in place I'd add the mat, run a soft roller over the print > to deal with any air bubbles, then put the mat cutout over the photo to > protect it. Then I'd put a sheet of MDF (particle board) over the top to > keep everything flat while the glue sets. > > I don't know what the motorised version costs but it would definitely be > better. The only trouble with this stuff is that you need to use it fairly > regularly. If it dries out in the roller you have an epic cleanup job. > > BTW with the Rollataq device I always applied the glue to the foam board. If > you glue right to the edge of the photo and the photo slips... you'll get > glue on the front as some will have got onto the working surface. I should > have experimented with leaving a margin. > > I might leave my glass cutting and dust busting adventures for another day :) > > Cheers, > Dave > > > -- > PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List > PDML@pdml.net > http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net > to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow > the directions. It's not that life is too short, it's that you're dead for so long.. — Anon Joseph McAllister pentax...@mac.com -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: OT: Matting & Framing
On Jun 27, 2012, at 5:08 AM, Igor Roshchin wrote: > Just in case it would useful, some ideas on mounting prints on the board: > For mounting canvas prints (especially those that didn't have much > empty margin around the print), I've used foam (aka foam-core?) board > with self-adhesive surface. I bought it rather inexpensively (within $10 > for about 20"x30" piece) at a local art-supply store. They are rather > expensive via mail (and usually, you have to buy a pack of 10) I used to frame my own pictures but gave up in the end because it was fiddly and some materials were hard to find - especially the mouldings where I had to deal with warped "seconds" unless I wanted to buy about a mile of a single style. I'd have just about killed for foam board with a self-adhesive surface as long as it gave you plenty of working time before it set. But I've never even heard of the stuff until now. I just used standard foam core. I started out using photo-mounting "dots" sold by stationery stores but they didn't hold the print flat so you could see the waviness under certain lighting conditions. I'm too fussy to put up with that. I then tried acid-free glue but you could see where the lines of glue were and it started to set very quickly so any attempt to spread it resulted in a messy disaster. Eventually I found a product called Rollataq which has a hand-held roller where the handle is filled with glue. My local art supplies shop was able to order one for me. http://www.daige.com/rollataq.htm It's designed to spread the glue uniformly over the whole surface and you have a few minutes to get everything positioned before it starts to set. It worked very well and I had plenty of time to position the print. Once the print was in place I'd add the mat, run a soft roller over the print to deal with any air bubbles, then put the mat cutout over the photo to protect it. Then I'd put a sheet of MDF (particle board) over the top to keep everything flat while the glue sets. I don't know what the motorised version costs but it would definitely be better. The only trouble with this stuff is that you need to use it fairly regularly. If it dries out in the roller you have an epic cleanup job. BTW with the Rollataq device I always applied the glue to the foam board. If you glue right to the edge of the photo and the photo slips... you'll get glue on the front as some will have got onto the working surface. I should have experimented with leaving a margin. I might leave my glass cutting and dust busting adventures for another day :) Cheers, Dave -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: OT: Matting & Framing
Just in case it would useful, some ideas on mounting prints on the board: For mounting canvas prints (especially those that didn't have much empty margin around the print), I've used foam (aka foam-core?) board with self-adhesive surface. I bought it rather inexpensively (within $10 for about 20"x30" piece) at a local art-supply store. They are rather expensive via mail (and usually, you have to buy a pack of 10) The one I used was by Hunt (now Elmers): http://www.elmers.com/product/detail/950049 Other brands that I see available are Crescent: http://www.dickblick.com/products/crescent-perfect-mount-self-adhesive-mounting-board/ and Bainbridge: http://www.artsupply.com/foamcore/self_adhesive.htm . As for the glues, - several years ago, I asked at a large framing store in Russia about what they used as an adhesive to mount canvas on a board (they did a good job on a few orders - those seem to be lasting so far). They told me that they found that they had very good and consistent results with the glue called "Moment". They observed no typical problems. I haven't seen that glue sold anywhere outside of the former Soviet Union republics and other Eastern European countries. It is a universal glue used to bond wood, metal, rigid PVC, leather, rubber, felt, glass, ceramics, etc. http://7kilometr.com/eng/article/clay-universal-moment-of-glues-wood-metal This page (albeit in Polish) shows nice diagrams that indicate properties of this glue: http://www.pattex.pl/content/view/294/342/ This glue is manufactured by the German company Henkel. It is marketed (mostly in Europe) as "Pattex": http://www.mscomposit.com/ruzne/lepidla/pattex-power-glue-transparent.html http://www.pattex.com/index.html If somebody knows how this glue (or its analogues) is sold in the US, I'd appreciate that information. Igor -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: OT: Matting & Framing
On Mon, Jun 25, 2012 at 8:29 PM, Ed Keeney wrote: > This year I was thinking of handling the matting and framing myself. > Nothing fancy or out of the ordinary, but possibly working with my > local Blicks to get it together. I am thinking of going 16x20 for the > print with a 2" border for the mat. This would make the frame 20x24. I was thinking about the same lines as Bruce wrote: I might consider a slightly wider mat (border). Especially if you are doing custom-sized mat/frame. On another hand, I was going to suggest that if you are going with "standard" sizes, you can find reasonably priced precut mats at art-supplies stores such as Aaron Brothers (which I like better than Michaels), or your local equivalent store. If you can find one that looks adequate, it would be much cheaper than a custom ordered one, and just a bit more expensive than what you can do yourself (minus all the trouble). What is nice with the precut mats is that you can take your photo to the store, and try to see how it looks with that matt (I sometimes take just a small 4x6 or 5x7 print before I even printed the large one). Also, - sometimes I get the dual mats (two colors) - this is harder to imagine, but easy to see with the precut ones. I also found some good and relatively inexpensive frames at Aaron Brothers. On some rare occasion, I find inexpensive premade frames at TJ Maxx and Marshalls. My biggest problem with the premade frames is that very few exist in 8"x12" size. For that size range, most of them are 8"x10" or 8.5"x11". BTW, yet another source of relatively inexpensive frames (albeit more odd sizes) - is Ikea (if you have one in the vicinity). For Ann: a decade ago, when I lived in Manhattan, I was doing all the printing at Adorama (18th street). A.I. Friedman store was next door. It was (or just seemed to me?) very expensive, but had very nich choice of supplies, including premade mats and frames. I still have one photo in the frame that I bought there. HTH, Igor -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
RE: OT: Matting & Framing
From: Ed Keeney Now that the latest PDML book has been published (and it looks great; mine was ordered today), I have a question for the masses. In 2010 my print was hung in the DANK haus gallery with many of the other entries. I still have that print hanging on my wall here at home. Last year, I had my entry printed, mounted and framed by MPIX. They did a really nice job. This year I was thinking of handling the matting and framing myself. Nothing fancy or out of the ordinary, but possibly working with my local Blicks to get it together. I am thinking of going 16x20 for the print with a 2" border for the mat. This would make the frame 20x24. I have a ton of questions. But I think I can work out most of them with the team at Blicks. For those who do their own matting and framing, is it worth the effort? I'm thinking if this works out well, I might print, frame and hang more shots. Is there a simple step-by-step process you follow? To start with, my local Craigslist has 2 Logan mat cutters listed for around $50 so the initial investment shouldn't be too much. I'll need the print, the mat and then the frame itself (this is probably the largest expense). Overall, I'm expecting it to be less than the cost of getting it printed and framed somewhere else. What do you think? If you're going to do your own mounting, matting & framing, I suggest you download a free software program called Matworks. http://www.gt-photography.com/matworks.html Pre-cut mats might be another possible alternative. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: OT: Matting & Framing
Quoting Paul Ewins : Brian: http://www.matcutting.com.au/ Thanks, Paul. I'll get them to give me a quote. Cheers Brian ++ Brian Walters Western Sydney Australia http://lyons-ryan.org/southernlight/ On 26/06/2012, at 12:30 PM, Brian Walters wrote: I buy my mats and backing boards pre-cut in small batches from an on-line seller. It is cheaper and gives better results than trying to cut my own mats. Do you have a link to that seller? -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: OT: Matting & Framing
Brian: http://www.matcutting.com.au/ On 26/06/2012, at 12:30 PM, Brian Walters wrote: >> I buy my mats and backing boards pre-cut in small batches from an on-line >> seller. It is cheaper and gives better results than trying to cut my own >> mats. > > > > Do you have a link to that seller? > > > > Cheers > > Brian > -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: OT: Matting & Framing
If you really want to do it, it's another thing that will take you away from photography - like sitting at the computer processing your images - which I enjoy BTW. If you're gonna do it it would be best to do a bunch at one time. Me, I've done it both ways and much prefer having it done @ the local framer. You could always do the matte yourself and buy the frames from online sources to save som bucks. YMMV -Original Message- >From: Ed Keeney >Subject: OT: Matting & Framing > >Now that the latest PDML book has been published (and it looks great; >mine was ordered today), I have a question for the masses. > >In 2010 my print was hung in the DANK haus gallery with many of the >other entries. I still have that print hanging on my wall here at >home. Last year, I had my entry printed, mounted and framed by MPIX. >They did a really nice job. > >This year I was thinking of handling the matting and framing myself. >Nothing fancy or out of the ordinary, but possibly working with my >local Blicks to get it together. I am thinking of going 16x20 for the >print with a 2" border for the mat. This would make the frame 20x24. > >I have a ton of questions. But I think I can work out most of them >with the team at Blicks. > >For those who do their own matting and framing, is it worth the >effort? I'm thinking if this works out well, I might print, frame and >hang more shots. Is there a simple step-by-step process you follow? > >To start with, my local Craigslist has 2 Logan mat cutters listed for >around $50 so the initial investment shouldn't be too much. I'll need >the print, the mat and then the frame itself (this is probably the >largest expense). Overall, I'm expecting it to be less than the cost >of getting it printed and framed somewhere else. > >What do you think? > >Thanks! >Ed >http://picasaweb.google.com/ewkphoto >http://www.flickr.com/photos/edkeeney/ -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: OT: Matting & Framing
Quoting Paul Ewins : On 26/06/2012, at 10:29 AM, Ed Keeney wrote: Is there a simple step-by-step process you follow? I am studying photography part-time at a local college and here is their preferred method: 1. Lay the mat on top of the backing board (foam core or an uncut sheet of mat board) in the same orientation as it would be when completed. 2. Now flip the mat upwards onto its back, as if you were changing months on a calendar. 3. Butt the mat and the backing board together along the top edge and then run a length of tape all the way along the top of the seam to join them. 4. Now flip the mat back again so that it is in the same state as in 1 - your tape join should now be inside. 5. Place your print inside and gently move it around until it is correctly located in the window of the mat. 6. Put something soft (so it doesn't scratch) but heavy on the print to prevent it moving. 7. Flip the mat back, as in step 2. 8a. If your print has a border: run a piece of tape along the top edge of the print to secure it to the backing board. You are done. 8b. if your print has no border: run a piece of tape along the back of the top edge of the print, then flip the mat back and press down on it to stick the tape to the back of the mat. Then carefully turn the whole assembly over so that the backing board is on tip and open it up again. Carefully push along the tape to properly secure it to the back of the mat. Close it up again, you are done. The idea of securing the print by a single piece of tape is so that any expansion or contraction of the mount or print doesn't cause buckling since the print is free to move. Making all the joins along the top edges allows the print to hang and thus have the best chance of remaining flat. I don't know what I did wrong but the 'free hanging' technique just didn't work for me. Maybe the backing board and print expanded or contracted at different rates but, whatever the reason, small undulations developed in the print which made the framed photo look unattractive unless viewed directly from the front. I've gone back to gluing the print to the backing using acid free spray adhesive. I'm in the process of framing and mounting another set of prints so I might try the free hanging method again. Note that: All materials should be acid free The best tape to use is "framer's tape" I buy my mats and backing boards pre-cut in small batches from an on-line seller. It is cheaper and gives better results than trying to cut my own mats. Do you have a link to that seller? Cheers Brian ++ Brian Walters Western Sydney Australia http://lyons-ryan.org/southernlight/ If the print is to be handled (e.g. judging) then I usually stick the mat down as follows: 1. Flip back the mat as in step 2 & 7 above. 2. Run a strip of clear packaging tape along both sides of the mat and the backing board from the middle to the bottom so that when you close it back up the strips on the back of the mat will be in contact with the strips on the front of the backing board. 3. Attach a piece of double sided tape on the packing tape on each side of the backing board. If you have a large mount then use two pieces per side. 4. Close it up again and press on the edges so that the double sided tape adheres to the packing tape on the back of the mat. 5. You are done. The point of the packing tape is that you can separate the mount again at a later date without ruining it because the packing tape adheres much more strongly to the mat and backing board than the double sided tape adheres to the packing tape. Just run a metal ruler or slim blade in between the mat and the backing board and the double sided tape should just peel away from the packaging tape. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: OT: Matting & Framing
On 6/25/2012 21:22, Paul Stenquist wrote: It all quite simple, except -- and this is a big except -- the matting. An inexpensive mat cutter generally yields inexpensive looking mats, with sloppy corners and imprecise edges. Even the good mat cutters require a fair amount of practice. I would suggest doing all the framing and printing work yourself, but have a pro cut the mat. Ed - I was about to write the same thing to you as Paul - thought I'd read what others said first :-) Get the front mat cut - and get the glass cut by a pro as well.. the reason for that is they will keep it absolutely clean for you. I just framed stuff for friends of mine for a small fee - the frame was 28 x 22 (it was an odd sized watercolor) I got the cut glass, the framing material (Neissen bainbridge gold metal) the museum board cut to spec for about $80 - and I'm in NYC. :-) My friends paid for the materials,of course, and I took $30 from them for my work. Less expensive frames or getting them on sale - getting framed and glassed work from thrift stores and just getting your own mat cut can um cut down on expenses and save fingers. If the mat cutter messes up, he will do it over for you. Ann On the other hand, if you're willing to invest a lot of time and a fair amount of money in the effort, it might be a skill you would like to learn, but in my opinion, it's not easy. Others with fewer thumbs and steadier hands may disagree. Paul On Jun 25, 2012, at 8:29 PM, Ed Keeney wrote: Now that the latest PDML book has been published (and it looks great; mine was ordered today), I have a question for the masses. In 2010 my print was hung in the DANK haus gallery with many of the other entries. I still have that print hanging on my wall here at home. Last year, I had my entry printed, mounted and framed by MPIX. They did a really nice job. This year I was thinking of handling the matting and framing myself. Nothing fancy or out of the ordinary, but possibly working with my local Blicks to get it together. I am thinking of going 16x20 for the print with a 2" border for the mat. This would make the frame 20x24. I have a ton of questions. But I think I can work out most of them with the team at Blicks. For those who do their own matting and framing, is it worth the effort? I'm thinking if this works out well, I might print, frame and hang more shots. Is there a simple step-by-step process you follow? To start with, my local Craigslist has 2 Logan mat cutters listed for around $50 so the initial investment shouldn't be too much. I'll need the print, the mat and then the frame itself (this is probably the largest expense). Overall, I'm expecting it to be less than the cost of getting it printed and framed somewhere else. What do you think? Thanks! Ed http://picasaweb.google.com/ewkphoto http://www.flickr.com/photos/edkeeney/ -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: OT: Matting & Framing
I have one of the large Logan mat cutters. It works well for me and $50 for one is a very good price. Grab it if it is still available. The one thing you will need to do is use pins to mark your cutting start/stop positions. And get a piece of cardboard to experiment on to get your technique down. It's not hard, but there is a little knack to getting the corners perfect. (At least to those of us who lack good eye-hand coordination.) Collin -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: OT: Matting & Framing
On 26/06/2012, at 10:29 AM, Ed Keeney wrote: > Is there a simple step-by-step process you follow? I am studying photography part-time at a local college and here is their preferred method: 1. Lay the mat on top of the backing board (foam core or an uncut sheet of mat board) in the same orientation as it would be when completed. 2. Now flip the mat upwards onto its back, as if you were changing months on a calendar. 3. Butt the mat and the backing board together along the top edge and then run a length of tape all the way along the top of the seam to join them. 4. Now flip the mat back again so that it is in the same state as in 1 - your tape join should now be inside. 5. Place your print inside and gently move it around until it is correctly located in the window of the mat. 6. Put something soft (so it doesn't scratch) but heavy on the print to prevent it moving. 7. Flip the mat back, as in step 2. 8a. If your print has a border: run a piece of tape along the top edge of the print to secure it to the backing board. You are done. 8b. if your print has no border: run a piece of tape along the back of the top edge of the print, then flip the mat back and press down on it to stick the tape to the back of the mat. Then carefully turn the whole assembly over so that the backing board is on tip and open it up again. Carefully push along the tape to properly secure it to the back of the mat. Close it up again, you are done. The idea of securing the print by a single piece of tape is so that any expansion or contraction of the mount or print doesn't cause buckling since the print is free to move. Making all the joins along the top edges allows the print to hang and thus have the best chance of remaining flat. Note that: All materials should be acid free The best tape to use is "framer's tape" I buy my mats and backing boards pre-cut in small batches from an on-line seller. It is cheaper and gives better results than trying to cut my own mats. If the print is to be handled (e.g. judging) then I usually stick the mat down as follows: 1. Flip back the mat as in step 2 & 7 above. 2. Run a strip of clear packaging tape along both sides of the mat and the backing board from the middle to the bottom so that when you close it back up the strips on the back of the mat will be in contact with the strips on the front of the backing board. 3. Attach a piece of double sided tape on the packing tape on each side of the backing board. If you have a large mount then use two pieces per side. 4. Close it up again and press on the edges so that the double sided tape adheres to the packing tape on the back of the mat. 5. You are done. The point of the packing tape is that you can separate the mount again at a later date without ruining it because the packing tape adheres much more strongly to the mat and backing board than the double sided tape adheres to the packing tape. Just run a metal ruler or slim blade in between the mat and the backing board and the double sided tape should just peel away from the packaging tape. regards, Paul -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: OT: Matting & Framing
On Mon, Jun 25, 2012 at 8:29 PM, Ed Keeney wrote: > > Now that the latest PDML book has been published (and it looks great; > mine was ordered today), I have a question for the masses. > > In 2010 my print was hung in the DANK haus gallery with many of the > other entries. I still have that print hanging on my wall here at > home. Last year, I had my entry printed, mounted and framed by MPIX. > They did a really nice job. > > This year I was thinking of handling the matting and framing myself. > Nothing fancy or out of the ordinary, but possibly working with my > local Blicks to get it together. I am thinking of going 16x20 for the > print with a 2" border for the mat. This would make the frame 20x24. I'd go for 2.5" to 3.5" mat border for a print that large. I've been printing a lot of 13"x19.5" images and mounting them in the Ikea Ribba 19.75"x27.5" frame. The mat's border is about 3.25" on 3 sides and 4-something inches at the bottom. You shouldn't crowd the print into a too-small frame with a too-narrow mat. It doesn't look good. Wander around an art gallery with a small tape-rule and check them out to see what they do. > I have a ton of questions. But I think I can work out most of them > with the team at Blicks. > > For those who do their own matting and framing, is it worth the > effort? I'm thinking if this works out well, I might print, frame and > hang more shots. Is there a simple step-by-step process you follow? > > To start with, my local Craigslist has 2 Logan mat cutters listed for > around $50 so the initial investment shouldn't be too much. I'll need > the print, the mat and then the frame itself (this is probably the > largest expense). Overall, I'm expecting it to be less than the cost > of getting it printed and framed somewhere else. > > What do you think? > > Thanks! > Ed > http://picasaweb.google.com/ewkphoto > http://www.flickr.com/photos/edkeeney/ I think it's worth it as long as you have a good source of cheap frames, sheet mat board and time. And you are really picky about how your finished mounted prints look. And you are planning to do a number of them over time. I bought a board-mounted Logan mat cutter some years back that takes a 40" mat board. 32"x40" is a standard size sheet and you need to be able to cut these down to size. It was about $150 or so new. It comes with an instructional DVD and you can also see the videos on Youtube. And Paul: I'm a total klutz but I still manage to cut good mats. I figure it's all worth it because raw board is about $7 a sheet, from which I get two mats, but professionally cut mats at that size are like $30 each. Plus I like the more unusual black-core mat boards that yield a nice black line around the print. I have to special-order those mat boards. Done right it gives the impression of a double mat. -- -bmw -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: OT: Matting & Framing
It all quite simple, except -- and this is a big except -- the matting. An inexpensive mat cutter generally yields inexpensive looking mats, with sloppy corners and imprecise edges. Even the good mat cutters require a fair amount of practice. I would suggest doing all the framing and printing work yourself, but have a pro cut the mat. On the other hand, if you're willing to invest a lot of time and a fair amount of money in the effort, it might be a skill you would like to learn, but in my opinion, it's not easy. Others with fewer thumbs and steadier hands may disagree. Paul On Jun 25, 2012, at 8:29 PM, Ed Keeney wrote: > Now that the latest PDML book has been published (and it looks great; > mine was ordered today), I have a question for the masses. > > In 2010 my print was hung in the DANK haus gallery with many of the > other entries. I still have that print hanging on my wall here at > home. Last year, I had my entry printed, mounted and framed by MPIX. > They did a really nice job. > > This year I was thinking of handling the matting and framing myself. > Nothing fancy or out of the ordinary, but possibly working with my > local Blicks to get it together. I am thinking of going 16x20 for the > print with a 2" border for the mat. This would make the frame 20x24. > > I have a ton of questions. But I think I can work out most of them > with the team at Blicks. > > For those who do their own matting and framing, is it worth the > effort? I'm thinking if this works out well, I might print, frame and > hang more shots. Is there a simple step-by-step process you follow? > > To start with, my local Craigslist has 2 Logan mat cutters listed for > around $50 so the initial investment shouldn't be too much. I'll need > the print, the mat and then the frame itself (this is probably the > largest expense). Overall, I'm expecting it to be less than the cost > of getting it printed and framed somewhere else. > > What do you think? > > Thanks! > Ed > http://picasaweb.google.com/ewkphoto > http://www.flickr.com/photos/edkeeney/ > > -- > PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List > PDML@pdml.net > http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net > to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow > the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
OT: Matting & Framing
Now that the latest PDML book has been published (and it looks great; mine was ordered today), I have a question for the masses. In 2010 my print was hung in the DANK haus gallery with many of the other entries. I still have that print hanging on my wall here at home. Last year, I had my entry printed, mounted and framed by MPIX. They did a really nice job. This year I was thinking of handling the matting and framing myself. Nothing fancy or out of the ordinary, but possibly working with my local Blicks to get it together. I am thinking of going 16x20 for the print with a 2" border for the mat. This would make the frame 20x24. I have a ton of questions. But I think I can work out most of them with the team at Blicks. For those who do their own matting and framing, is it worth the effort? I'm thinking if this works out well, I might print, frame and hang more shots. Is there a simple step-by-step process you follow? To start with, my local Craigslist has 2 Logan mat cutters listed for around $50 so the initial investment shouldn't be too much. I'll need the print, the mat and then the frame itself (this is probably the largest expense). Overall, I'm expecting it to be less than the cost of getting it printed and framed somewhere else. What do you think? Thanks! Ed http://picasaweb.google.com/ewkphoto http://www.flickr.com/photos/edkeeney/ -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
