Re: Developing Tri-X 400
Hey, cut it out!!! we have had long (squid filled) discussions about meters and metering. We are treading where the coals are hot and there is no escaping. Like religion, these are very personal areas and to each their own!!! Bob - Original Message - From: gabriel bovino [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2002 6:45 PM Subject: Re: Developing Tri-X 400 Hey... that could be a future pentax discussion post: What's Your Favorite Developing Recipe? So that way, someone can create their very own developing cookbook and break out of their old habits and try something new. Gabe - Original Message - From: J. C. O'Connell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 9:55 PM Subject: RE: Developing Tri-X 400 I haven't had much success with Tmax 100. With Tmax 400, I generally expose it at ISO 200, then develop it in D76 1:1 for 11 minutes at 68 deg. F. I agitate 15 times for 5 seconds each time. I use stop bath, but I precede it with a water rinse. I like constant agitation (even though I never saw it recommended anywhere) because its easier and more consistant. ( I use a print drum roller) Just set it on roller and forget it. I use stop bath directly after developer because I want film to stop developing immediately (especially when development time is so short). Using water rinse seems like it wouldnt be as fast or consistant. I use the drum roller for fixer agaitation too but i've got it set for 3 seconds on out of every 30 seconds. I really fix long for TMAX films, like 15 minutes. JCO - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Developing Tri-X 400
Well I want to thank everyone for their advice!!! Because I was so eager to try developing my own negs after about 10 years... I went out a bought what was only available at the local camera shop. T-MAX Developer Kodafix Solution Kodak Stop Bath Kodak PhotoFlo I developed the film and everything looks great... except where the film buckled a little and it did not develop correctly. - Original Message - From: Frantisek Vlcek [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Paul Jones [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 4:07 PM Subject: Re: Developing Tri-X 400 PJ After some discussion with Shel, he reccomended TriX to me and i've been PJ using it for most of my b/w since then, i do use Neopan 1600 when i need PJ some xtra speed (which is a really good film for its speed). You have TX and use Neopan 1600 to get to 1600 ISO?!? What a blasphemy! Both TX and HP5+ are no problem pushing to 1600, no problem at all, even in D76 (although Microphen is best for it IMO). IMHO better to use it than a Neopan, not that it's bad, but because with TX or HP5+ you can cover 400-1600 (3200 sometimes) with one film _you know_. [...] PJ I develop mine in Xtol, I have also developed it in Rodinal (only twice) and PJ ID-11 a number of times. But with Xtol i seem to get a nice combination of PJ sharpeness, fine grain and nice tones. I think it was slighty sharper in PJ Rodinal, but not by much. But the grain was a problem for me. Try Rodinal with medium format film. I have a personal love for Rodinal, so I like it even in small format, but then, I also like contrasty, super-grainy photographs :) (if the content is good of courseg). Snowfield Willie wrote that grain looks are very important for the look of photograph. I have several very good films where I simply don't like the grain looks in the resulting photo. And grain looks are, in small enlargements, a lot influenced by paper too, and of course enlarger light source, and paper grade - hard grades show the grain a lot more. Good light, Frantisek - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Developing Tri-X 400
gabriel bovino wrote: Well I want to thank everyone for their advice!!! Because I was so eager to try developing my own negs after about 10 years... I went out a bought what was only available at the local camera shop. T-MAX Developer Kodafix Solution Kodak Stop Bath Kodak PhotoFlo I developed the film and everything looks great... except where the film buckled a little and it did not develop correctly Congratulations! That's a big first step. And everything you used is completely adequate, and perhaps quite good. T-Max is a relatively hot developer, but it yields very nice results in most situations. I haven't tried it with Tri=X, but I suspect it will do just fine. Work with these chemicals for a while, then try something like D-76 1:1 and compare the results. Do some reading. See what other people are doing, and experiment. It's a lot of fun. And eventually you'll find something that's just right for you. Paul - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Developing Tri-X 400
-Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Paul Stenquist Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 4:37 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Developing Tri-X 400 gabriel bovino wrote: Well I want to thank everyone for their advice!!! Because I was so eager to try developing my own negs after about 10 years... I went out a bought what was only available at the local camera shop. T-MAX Developer Kodafix Solution Kodak Stop Bath Kodak PhotoFlo I developed the film and everything looks great... except where the film buckled a little and it did not develop correctly Congratulations! That's a big first step. And everything you used is completely adequate, and perhaps quite good. T-Max is a relatively hot developer, but it yields very nice results in most situations. I haven't tried it with Tri=X, but I suspect it will do just fine. Work with these chemicals for a while, then try something like D-76 1:1 and compare the results. Do some reading. See what other people are doing, and experiment. It's a lot of fun. And eventually you'll find something that's just right for you. Paul I think it's better to experiment with film speed and development time keeping film, developer, developer temp, developer dilution, agitation all constant. That way you can really get best results. The best way to find film speed with a given development process is to bracket +/- 2 stops from nominal speed in 1/2 stop increments and then choose best looking negative and use that speed from then on. Once that is established, then change one varible such as developer and fine tune again if not satified with first results. It's not Tri-X but here's one setup that works fantastic for me: Film : Tmax 100 ISO: 80 Deveolper : Tmax liquid Deveolper dilution : 1:9 ( 1 shot use ) Diluted Developer Amount : 400ml Per roll (36) Developer Temp. : 24 deg. C Agitation : constant with roller Development Time : 6.5 minutes Use stop bath : Yes Good Luck, JCO - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Developing Tri-X 400
J. C. O'Connell wrote: I think it's better to experiment with film speed and development time keeping film, developer, developer temp, developer dilution, agitation all constant. That way you can really get best results. T I agree. It's best to perfect one developer before moving on. It's not Tri-X but here's one setup that works fantastic for me: Film : Tmax 100 ISO: 80 Deveolper : Tmax liquid Deveolper dilution : 1:9 ( 1 shot use ) Diluted Developer Amount : 400ml Per roll (36) Developer Temp. : 24 deg. C Agitation : constant with roller Development Time : 6.5 minutes Use stop bath : Yes I'm going to try your Tmax 100 recipe. While I've had great success with Tmax 400. I haven't had much success with Tmax 100. With Tmax 400, I generally expose it at ISO 200, then develop it in D76 1:1 for 11 minutes at 68 deg. F. I agitate 15 times for 5 seconds each time. I use stop bath, but I precede it with a water rinse. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Developing Tri-X 400
I haven't had much success with Tmax 100. With Tmax 400, I generally expose it at ISO 200, then develop it in D76 1:1 for 11 minutes at 68 deg. F. I agitate 15 times for 5 seconds each time. I use stop bath, but I precede it with a water rinse. I like constant agitation (even though I never saw it recommended anywhere) because its easier and more consistant. ( I use a print drum roller) Just set it on roller and forget it. I use stop bath directly after developer because I want film to stop developing immediately (especially when development time is so short). Using water rinse seems like it wouldnt be as fast or consistant. I use the drum roller for fixer agaitation too but i've got it set for 3 seconds on out of every 30 seconds. I really fix long for TMAX films, like 15 minutes. JCO - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Developing Tri-X 400
PJ After some discussion with Shel, he reccomended TriX to me and i've been PJ using it for most of my b/w since then, i do use Neopan 1600 when i need PJ some xtra speed (which is a really good film for its speed). You have TX and use Neopan 1600 to get to 1600 ISO?!? What a blasphemy! Both TX and HP5+ are no problem pushing to 1600, no problem at all, even in D76 (although Microphen is best for it IMO). IMHO better to use it than a Neopan, not that it's bad, but because with TX or HP5+ you can cover 400-1600 (3200 sometimes) with one film _you know_. [...] PJ I develop mine in Xtol, I have also developed it in Rodinal (only twice) and PJ ID-11 a number of times. But with Xtol i seem to get a nice combination of PJ sharpeness, fine grain and nice tones. I think it was slighty sharper in PJ Rodinal, but not by much. But the grain was a problem for me. Try Rodinal with medium format film. I have a personal love for Rodinal, so I like it even in small format, but then, I also like contrasty, super-grainy photographs :) (if the content is good of courseg). Snowfield Willie wrote that grain looks are very important for the look of photograph. I have several very good films where I simply don't like the grain looks in the resulting photo. And grain looks are, in small enlargements, a lot influenced by paper too, and of course enlarger light source, and paper grade - hard grades show the grain a lot more. Good light, Frantisek - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Developing Tri-X 400
I'm still in the learning process with BW (developing in a daylight tank and printing with Vuescan, PS 6.0, and Epson 1270). Over the weekend I tried Mike Johnston's suggestion and shot Tri-X at 200 and processed in D-76 1:1 for 8 minutes. I was pleased with the results. Bill, KG4LOV [EMAIL PROTECTED] - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Developing Tri-X 400
Hi, After some discussion with Shel, he reccomended TriX to me and i've been using it for most of my b/w since then, i do use Neopan 1600 when i need some xtra speed (which is a really good film for its speed). I really like TriX and I like the grain :) Although i havent tried that many other 400 b/w films, the other film i have used is Neopan 400 and a little HP4. I develop mine in Xtol, I have also developed it in Rodinal (only twice) and ID-11 a number of times. But with Xtol i seem to get a nice combination of sharpeness, fine grain and nice tones. I think it was slighty sharper in Rodinal, but not by much. But the grain was a problem for me. Regards, Paul Jones - Original Message - From: J. C. O'Connell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 5:06 PM Subject: RE: Developing Tri-X 400 Why are people so enamored with Tri-X? I use Tmax 100 developed with Tmax developer and the results are outstanding. Tri-X is so grainy I dont understand why anyone would want to use it anymore. Just a quick comment on Tmax 400, it's way too fussy and I have never been able to get good results with it. Maybe thats why Tri-X still survives? JCO - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Developing Tri-X 400
- Original Message - From: Paul Jones Subject: Re: Developing Tri-X 400 I really like TriX and I like the grain :) A very important thing, since grain is an intrinsic component of the final image. So many things have to be ~right~ for a picture to work. We dwell on having the correct lens, and the ideal exposure, and the proper development, and the best paper. So may times, it seems, all we seem to think about with the film is how fine is the grain?. Much more important a question, methinks, is What does the grain look like?. It doesn't matter how fine grained a film is, if you shoot 35mm film and make enlargements 8x10 or bigger, grain is part of the final image. For myself, the grain had damn well better look nice, or the image is a failure. Tri-X has very nice grain. William Robb - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Developing Tri-X 400
Hi, Stop in at a good camera store and get yourself a copy of the Kodak Darkroom Dataguide. It will list recommended developers and other chemicals needed to process that Tri-X . It also provides good instructions. You'll see the book includes developmeent times for the various films. If I were you, I'd try Kodak HC-110 Developer (easy to mix), stop bath, and a rapid fixer. When you're purchasing chemicals, you should also ask for a bottle of hypo eliminator (Orbit is the most popular brand),. If you're water is less than pristine, get some distilled water for your last rinse. If you use tap water, buy some Photo Flo solution to add to the last rinse. Once you've had some experience, try different developers. Kodak D-76 mixed 11 with water works very well for Kodak, as do a number of products from other manufacturers. But the best way to start is to go with the Kodak book and the Kodak chemicals for your first attempt. It's a much more comfortable learning curve when you have that much help. Paul gabriel bovino wrote: Hello everyone, I just found out that my sister still has all of her BW developing equipment and enlarger sitting in my parents closet at home. Since I live in an apartment (with my girlfriend), I want to start slowly and try processing some rolls of Tri-X 400 in our bathroom. Miracously, my girlfriend agreed... or maybe she doesn't know what she's agreed to yet. Anyways, I wanted to know what chemicals I will need to purchase to develop these rolls. It's been about 10 years since highschool that I've had a chance to develop my own BW negatives. I found the procedure for developing film at http://www.photogs.com/bwworld/bwfilmdev.html but want to know if there are specific brands or chemicals that I should be using to shorten my learning curve. Maybe down the road I can convince her to turn our pantry into a blackroom... or not. :) Thanks!!! Gabe - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Developing Tri-X 400
Hi Paul ... Allow me to present another side of your suggestions, although they are good ones. First, I'd recommend against HC-110 and stick with D-76 or ID-11 as the first developers, since they are, essentially, the benchmark by which other developers are measured. From there I'd experiment with other choices. The Kodak Darkroom Dataguide is a good book - I use it myself - but, of course, it's very Kodak-centric. So, I'd suggest supplementing it with The Film Developing Cookbook, which has both a broader and a deeper range. I'd also suggest using distilled water for mixing the developer and in which to develop the film. Your suggestion of distilled water for the final rinse is a good one, too. Kodak's Photo-Flo is no longer used here. Edwal makes what many seem to feel is a better, more economical product, Edwal LFN. Comments on the subject of wetting agents and rinsing and drying techniques can be found here: http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=000pE8 I'm posting this not so much for you, but for Gabe, the original poster, as the discussion there touches on a few aspects of technique. Us old-timers have our routines pretty well set. Paul Stenquist wrote: Hi, Stop in at a good camera store and get yourself a copy of the Kodak Darkroom Dataguide. It will list recommended developers and other chemicals needed to process that Tri-X . It also provides good instructions. You'll see the book includes developmeent times for the various films. If I were you, I'd try Kodak HC-110 Developer (easy to mix), stop bath, and a rapid fixer. When you're purchasing chemicals, you should also ask for a bottle of hypo eliminator (Orbit is the most popular brand),. If you're water is less than pristine, get some distilled water for your last rinse. If you use tap water, buy some Photo Flo solution to add to the last rinse. Once you've had some experience, try different developers. Kodak D-76 mixed 11 with water works very well for Kodak, as do a number of products from other manufacturers. But the best way to start is to go with the Kodak book and the Kodak chemicals for your first attempt. It's a much more comfortable learning curve when you have that much help. -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Developing Tri-X 400
NYIP has a series on BW processing on their web site. There are ten installments and, for someone getting started, or just wanting to refresh his or her information, it's a good place to check out. http://www.nyip.com/tips/topic_black_white.html http://www.nyip.com/tips/topic_black_white_02.html http://www.nyip.com/tips/topic_black_white_03.html http://www.nyip.com/tips/topic_black_white_04.html http://www.nyip.com/tips/topic_black_white_05.html http://www.nyip.com/tips/topic_black_white_06.html http://www.nyip.com/tips/topic_black_white_07.html http://www.nyip.com/tips/topic_black_white_08.html http://www.nyip.com/tips/topic_black_white_09.html Have fun! -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Developing Tri-X 400
Why are people so enamored with Tri-X? I use Tmax 100 developed with Tmax developer and the results are outstanding. Tri-X is so grainy I dont understand why anyone would want to use it anymore. Just a quick comment on Tmax 400, it's way too fussy and I have never been able to get good results with it. Maybe thats why Tri-X still survives? JCO - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
