Re: [pinhole-discussion] polaroid pinhole question
Aeryck Anechiarico wrote: I have a Polaroid Land Camera that I took off the lense housing and replaced it with a board to size fitted with a pinhole in the middle. It is one of the older Memory Maker versoins of the land camera. The first few pictures I took with it were fine using the newer Fuji FP-100c film, but when I was using it yesterday, every picture I attempted came out brown and the negative side was black. I am curious, as I have not really worked with polaroid type pinhole very much, nor polaroid in itself that much, either, whether or not the film is messed up or if I am just not exposing for the correct amount of time? This is daylight film at ISO 100 and color. Any suggestions would be apprectiated. Eric Hi Eric I tried also the Fuji FP-100c, but the images I got had heavy magenta cast, I used the Polaroid Pinhole Kit and in the bright sunlight the the exposure was something from 5-10 secs. As I thought the colors would be even more off using longer exposures, I never tried to take photos with it in cloudy weather, maybe my results would have been alike of yours. Now I'm using Fuji FP100-B B/W film, but the reciprocity failure is different than that of Polapan Pro and on a cloudy day, exposure times are significantly less than with Polapan Pro. best -matti
[pinhole-discussion] polaroid problems resolved
hi and thanks to all for your information. John's and Nick's idea was the easiest to do. I drilled a hole in a piece of plywood, taped the camera onto it and now it is much better. The bluish cast was corrected with a yellow filter. The most yellow I found was from Ilford multigrade #00 filter, but this gave really nice color photo. Now if I only could locate a dealer here selling suitable film! thanks again -matti
Re: [pinhole-discussion] my first photo
thanks. Yes, I used Gimp curves to change contrast. One thing is my scanner isn't really a hi-end one and that causes even more problems to contrast and tonality. As my win98 is mainly for my kids to play (though I have Corel PhotoPaint) I use only Linux and Gimp, win98 crashes almost every time I try to scan. I placed a #0 filter behind my camera and took photos. They're still drying, but looks like they are really much better with tonality than without the filter. Filter kit I have is Ilford Multigrade. The tests I made showed that in a clear sunshine without filter 30 sec. was enough but using filter 2 mins. had to be exposed. Any reason for this long exposure? The guide in the filter box says that when enlargening using #0 filter has no effect in exposure time. My camera is 4x5 from an article of Popular Woodwork, searching the web gave this link, but I printed the article so I don't have the url anymore. Focal length is 120 mm. Jeff Dilcher wrote: Good job! What kind of camera are you using, and what kind of focal length? I have always shot film, but would like to experiment with paper. What did you mean by Gimp curves? changing contrast? I have found that this is almost always necessary with my pinhole film scans, and even my digital camera pics. Gimp is a great free photo editor, primarily used in Linux. I wonder if anyone else on the list uses it?
[pinhole-discussion] going to use film
thanks all for your information. Building a developing tube seems quite easy and cheap compared to ready tubes. I've taken 6x6 film pinhole photos with my modified Holga and the tonal range is much better than the paper negatives. But now as it looks like I may be able to develop sheet film after getting developing tubes, I'm sure going to use it. After doing some inquiries there's at least one shop here in Tampere that sells Kodak T-max sheet film, so I don't have to order the film from who knows where. The price is though multiple compared to paper negatives. thanks -matti mjkos...@koti.soon.fi
[pinhole-discussion] paper negative tricks
hi I finally got my wooden 4x5 camera lightproof and taken few test shots using paper negatives. Results are fine, but some recent talk here (esp. diluting developer) made me search for methods for better tonality. Flashing (ie. pre-exposure) was one I've already tried, but these tests showed a little increase in details. Diluting the developer is next thing I'm going to try, but still there are other methods, using multigrade filter for example. Problem with paper negative seems to be the total lack of details in the sky, getting the sky with some clouds make the print look more real. Does anybody of you know some web-pages to look for more information? Google search finds tons of pages not necessarily related with the subject. As I scan the paper negatives, there's also the possibilty to use computer to improve the prints, but if the scan shows no details, I'm not going to add some nice clouds from other pictures :-) thanks -matti mjkos...@koti.soon.fi
[pinhole-discussion] paper negatives?
Hi all I have an opportunity to do some woodwork next two mondays and of course I decided to build a camera. But. Time is running short and I couldn't find a filmholder off-the-shelf here in my home town. Another issue is that I have never developed sheet films and using photographic paper is easy to develop in the darkroom because you can have safelight. Some time ago there was a discussion using filmholders and photographic paper, but if I recall correctly, the paper is too thick to be used in the holder. Now I'm asking for assistance how to use photographic paper so that more than one picture can be taken without going to change the paper in the darkroom. One idea came to me looking at joycam's film. Could the papers be stacked (maybe a opaque sheet between the papers, and after exposing one, draw it with some method to a safe place (I'm thinking of letting the paper just fall from the rear to the bottom of the camera.) If there's this opaque sheet between the papers, the paper, facing down and covered with the black sheet, this should prevent it from exposing when taking new pictures. How to do this in practice is open, but it might be possible. Any ideas are more than welcome. I have 120 pinhole camera already, so I'd really would like to build a larger format camera. Any _fast_ help appreciated :-) Thanks -matti mjkos...@koti.soon.fi
