[RBW] Back problems--finally figured it out
As some of you may remember, I recently built up a Saluki with your generous help in selecting components. I have an on-and-off bad back, and thought it would be a great idea to raise the handlebars substantially above the level of the seat. Didn't solve the problem, so I ended up lowering the bars to seat level. Magically, my back pain disappeared. The lesson for me is that high bars aren't a magic solution to back problems. I think in my case, the bars when raised were just at the right height to put a lot of stress on my back. In any case, if you're suffering like I was, give it a shot. You never know. Raised bars: http://www.flickr.com/photos/36397...@n06/3357251749/ Current fit: http://www.flickr.com/photos/36397...@n06/3513513651/ John Ferguson New York, NY --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] FS: 58 cm red canti-Saluki frame/fork/headset $1,150
I'm doing this with more a twinge of regret. I've decided to build up a 26 country bike that I plan to subject to some abuse. The 'luki is too pretty to do that. Plus, my one bike in, one bike out rule must remain steadfast. I bought it secondhand about a month ago from John F. (he of the many beautiful bikes); it was new and unbuilt. I've put less than 200 miles on it. In virtually perfect condition. Selling for a hair under what I paid. I likely have some other parts if you need them. Here's a link to my local CL post of a few moments ago; email me for more and better pictures: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/1168324168.html If you've got questions, I've got answers. Thanks! Ryan --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Zyglo analysis useful?
Dye penetrant inspection will reveal discontinuities which are open to the surface. You spray with a purple dye then use a special cleaner to remove it. Ths is followed by a white developer. Any cracks will show up as thin purple lines against the white. Spray cans are available online at testing materials supply houses. Engine heads are often tested with a wet dip method and UV lighting. YOu can consult an automotive repairer for leads there. Older cranks, made of steel, can also be tested using magnetic particle inspection. Here, an electro-magnetic yoke is placed on the material and powered and colored iron filings are sprayed out between the poles of the yoke. If there is a discontinuty, the sides of if become magnetic poles and the iron particles adhere and reveal it. This method can reveal flaws which are slightly sub surface (1/8) and not open to teh surface, as well as those which open to the surface. It does not work on Aluminum. You can have the parts X-rayed. Industrial testing agencies can do this for you. They usually charge by the picture. Xrays of your old crank will probably cost as much as buying a new crank, but for notable cranks which are historically important, it is a possible way to go. Have fun! From: mitchelr mitch...@onid.orst.edu To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com Has anyone every used the Zyglo dye analysis process for parts such as a crank and if so was it worthwhile? --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Bleriot build--bottom bracket and front derailer
I use a Miche Pista BB, which is adjustable for chainline. Probably the 110. For the front derailleur, we usually use an older series 9s Tiagra (4500). On May 13, 12:19 am, cm chrispmur...@hotmail.com wrote: I am in the process of getting all the bits together to build my Bleriot. I have a Campy Mirage 50/34 compact crankset that I am planning on using. Has anyone out there used this or a similiar crankset? Or, does any one know what size bottom bracket would work and/or what front derailer would be best. I am planing on using a 9 speed 12-34 cassette in the rear with an 9 speed LX rear derailer and Silver bar-end shifters. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks! Cheers! cm --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Back problems--finally figured it out
I am just realizing the exact same thing, so glad you posted about this. After a few years of riding road and track bikes where the handlebars were generally lower than the saddle, I decided to build my brevet bike for comfort: extra tall Technomic stem with Noodles. I figured this would eliminate the neck pain I would sometimes experience towards the end of longer rides and centuries. I completed a 50 mile with the new set up (about a month ago) and experienced quite a bit of back pain from that ride. I figured I was just out of shape. I did a brevet the following weekend and DNF'd after 40 miles. I was exhausted and my back was killing me (and the weather was absolutely dreadful on top of everything else). Since then, I've lowered the bars about two inches, just about even with the saddle height now and as of this morning's commute, my back pain is almost completely gone. I think I've found a height that will help eliminate neck pain as well. I really like how the Technomic offers so much range to dial in the correct handlebar height. And I love the Noodles. On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 1:44 AM, Dustin Sharp dsh...@runbox.com wrote: I’d say that as an added bonus, the bike looks a lot better (to my eye at least) with the current fit. But I’m with you: for me, slightly lower bars let me stretch out the lower back and take some of the pressure off it. Dustin “Rules of thumb are great, but nothing beats experimentation” Sharp San Diego, CA On Tue, May 12, 2009 at 10:13 PM, John Ferguson rfj1...@yahoo.com wrote: As some of you may remember, I recently built up a Saluki with your generous help in selecting components. I have an on-and-off bad back, and thought it would be a great idea to raise the handlebars substantially above the level of the seat. Didn't solve the problem, so I ended up lowering the bars to seat level. Magically, my back pain disappeared. The lesson for me is that high bars aren't a magic solution to back problems. I think in my case, the bars when raised were just at the right height to put a lot of stress on my back. In any case, if you're suffering like I was, give it a shot. You never know. Raised bars: http://www.flickr.com/photos/36397...@n06/3357251749/ Current fit: http://www.flickr.com/photos/36397...@n06/3513513651/ John Ferguson New York, NY --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Bleriot build--bottom bracket and front derailer
this website would suggest 111 mm bb. remember, supposedly the bb needs to be campy square taper, not shimano or Japanese standard. http://www.ebikestop.com/campagnolo_mirage_compact_crankset_1725mm-84763.php On May 12, 10:19 pm, cm chrispmur...@hotmail.com wrote: I am in the process of getting all the bits together to build my Bleriot. I have a Campy Mirage 50/34 compact crankset that I am planning on using. Has anyone out there used this or a similiar crankset? Or, does any one know what size bottom bracket would work and/or what front derailer would be best. I am planing on using a 9 speed 12-34 cassette in the rear with an 9 speed LX rear derailer and Silver bar-end shifters. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks! Cheers! cm --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Back problems--finally figured it out
John, that is a gorgeous bike, but I'm prejudice. I have an ebisu with the same color fenders. I concur with your back analysis. I have found that my back often feels better if I ride on the drops for 5-10 minutes. Enjoy. Michael On May 13, 1:13 am, John Ferguson rfj1...@yahoo.com wrote: As some of you may remember, I recently built up a Saluki with your generous help in selecting components. I have an on-and-off bad back, and thought it would be a great idea to raise the handlebars substantially above the level of the seat. Didn't solve the problem, so I ended up lowering the bars to seat level. Magically, my back pain disappeared. The lesson for me is that high bars aren't a magic solution to back problems. I think in my case, the bars when raised were just at the right height to put a lot of stress on my back. In any case, if you're suffering like I was, give it a shot. You never know. Raised bars:http://www.flickr.com/photos/36397...@n06/3357251749/ Current fit:http://www.flickr.com/photos/36397...@n06/3513513651/ John Ferguson New York, NY --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Bleriot build--bottom bracket and front derailer
As Sheldon brown noted, you can use a Campy crankset on a Shimano BB, but it will not draw in as far. You have to experiment to see if you get the right chainline distance. The slope is 2 deg on both, but the Shimano starts out wider. You can eliminate the guesswork by using the same brand for both, taper wise. I have both a Veloce double and a triple running on a tange and a V-O (Shimano taper) BB respectively, with no issues operationally. I decided the Q on the triple was wider than I like, so have a Campy BB coming and will swap it. From: eflayer2 eflay...@comcast.net . remember, supposedly the bb needs to be campy square taper, not shimano or Japanese standard. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Photos of the new Rivendell Quickbeam
While it has taken us a little while to get around to it, we finally published some photos of the new silver Quickbeam: http://www.renaissancebicycles.com/gallery/ As I wrote about previously, this is my much anticipated personal bike ... and I am very very satisfied. I think the silver color is fabulous ... it definitely gives the bike a real retro appearance. You may also notice that the bike is lacking the seattube decal ... which is the way it arrived. Fine by me. Obviously, I went for the subtle / classic look with the black Brooks B17 narrow saddle, black Cinelli cork tape, practical dual-duty Shimano pedals, and a black Bike Burrito. Soon to come is the complementary Shimano 16t freewheel, a pair of classic VO bottle cages, and the new silver Planet Bike Superflash. I've ridden it about 30+ miles so far, so it still needs a little fine- tuning and a few adjustments. Of course, the ride is wonderful; very good at low speeds, confident in high-speed turns, smooth over the rough stuff, and just a real comfortable riding position. Let me know if you have any questions about the parts, build, or details of the Quickbeam ... I'll be happy to share. Bryan @ Renaissance Bicycles --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Zyglo analysis useful?
I'm no metallurgist, but I would think that a thorough cleaning and a once/twice/thrice over with the hairy eyeball would be enough to detect any cracks on a crank, given how little real estate there is to cover. Focus especially on areas that might be possible stress risers- crank/spider interface, taper, pedal eye, and any machining on the arm. On May 13, 4:17 am, mitchelr mitch...@onid.orst.edu wrote: Hope this is not too far off topic. I have an old Sugino Impel crankset I want to bring back into use specifically because of its 94/58 five arm configuration (and the daunting cost of alternatives such as the TA Carmina). Ebay supplied an old Sugino set. But is it any good? My LBS folks looked it over and offered assurances but I'm still uncertain. Has anyone every used the Zyglo dye analysis process for parts such as a crank and if so was it worthwhile? I'm presuming automotive engine rebuilders will have the dyes and UV lighting but are there other sources? Many thanks for the good advice on this odd project. Rich Mitchell, Corvallis Oregon --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Photos of the new Rivendell Quickbeam
Very nice bike! Who is your photographer? -Original Message- From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Bryan @ Renaissance Bicycles Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 8:48 AM To: RBW Owners Bunch Subject: [RBW] Photos of the new Rivendell Quickbeam While it has taken us a little while to get around to it, we finally published some photos of the new silver Quickbeam: http://www.renaissancebicycles.com/gallery/ As I wrote about previously, this is my much anticipated personal bike ... and I am very very satisfied. I think the silver color is fabulous ... it definitely gives the bike a real retro appearance. You may also notice that the bike is lacking the seattube decal ... which is the way it arrived. Fine by me. Obviously, I went for the subtle / classic look with the black Brooks B17 narrow saddle, black Cinelli cork tape, practical dual-duty Shimano pedals, and a black Bike Burrito. Soon to come is the complementary Shimano 16t freewheel, a pair of classic VO bottle cages, and the new silver Planet Bike Superflash. I've ridden it about 30+ miles so far, so it still needs a little fine- tuning and a few adjustments. Of course, the ride is wonderful; very good at low speeds, confident in high-speed turns, smooth over the rough stuff, and just a real comfortable riding position. Let me know if you have any questions about the parts, build, or details of the Quickbeam ... I'll be happy to share. Bryan @ Renaissance Bicycles --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Zyglo analysis useful?
In my days as an aeronautical quality engineer, I used a dye check method for finding cracks in metal. A red dye was painted on, then cleaned off. Then a white powdery developer was sprayed on. It pulled the red dye out of any cracks (even minute ones not visible to the eye) and made them very evident. This took no special lighting. I'm betting that the dye and developer is available fairly cheaply. Rob On May 13, 2009, at 9:43 AM, Jeremy Till wrote: I'm no metallurgist, but I would think that a thorough cleaning and a once/twice/thrice over with the hairy eyeball would be enough to detect any cracks on a crank, given how little real estate there is to cover. Focus especially on areas that might be possible stress risers- crank/spider interface, taper, pedal eye, and any machining on the arm. On May 13, 4:17 am, mitchelr mitch...@onid.orst.edu wrote: Hope this is not too far off topic. I have an old Sugino Impel crankset I want to bring back into use specifically because of its 94/58 five arm configuration (and the daunting cost of alternatives such as the TA Carmina). Ebay supplied an old Sugino set. But is it any good? My LBS folks looked it over and offered assurances but I'm still uncertain. Has anyone every used the Zyglo dye analysis process for parts such as a crank and if so was it worthwhile? I'm presuming automotive engine rebuilders will have the dyes and UV lighting but are there other sources? Many thanks for the good advice on this odd project. Rich Mitchell, Corvallis Oregon --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Photos of the new Rivendell Quickbeam
Great pics Bryan! That makes (at least) 2 QB's in western NC. What a great bike. I've been doing a lot of dirt road and Blue Ridge Parkway riding so far. Put a fixed cog on the flip side and have been riding that mostly (except, of course, on the long decent from Craggy Gardens ;^) I'd love to ride sometime. Maybe I'll see you at the Wheel Ride for Food during the Mountain Sports Festival (http://www.mowabc.org/events/wheel-ride-for-food/). And I'd still like to drop by the shop sometime. With all the rain we've been having, my new ultimate mud flap has really come in handy! http://tinyurl.com/odw2nz) -Jay Asheville, NC On May 13, 11:48 am, Bryan @ Renaissance Bicycles renaissancebicyc...@gmail.com wrote: While it has taken us a little while to get around to it, we finally published some photos of the new silver Quickbeam: http://www.renaissancebicycles.com/gallery/ As I wrote about previously, this is my much anticipated personal bike ... and I am very very satisfied. I think the silver color is fabulous ... it definitely gives the bike a real retro appearance. You may also notice that the bike is lacking the seattube decal ... which is the way it arrived. Fine by me. Obviously, I went for the subtle / classic look with the black Brooks B17 narrow saddle, black Cinelli cork tape, practical dual-duty Shimano pedals, and a black Bike Burrito. Soon to come is the complementary Shimano 16t freewheel, a pair of classic VO bottle cages, and the new silver Planet Bike Superflash. I've ridden it about 30+ miles so far, so it still needs a little fine- tuning and a few adjustments. Of course, the ride is wonderful; very good at low speeds, confident in high-speed turns, smooth over the rough stuff, and just a real comfortable riding position. Let me know if you have any questions about the parts, build, or details of the Quickbeam ... I'll be happy to share. Bryan @ Renaissance Bicycles --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Back problems--finally figured it out
I will suggest you read this blog entry by Dave Moulton http://davesbikeblog.squarespace.com/blog/2007/8/17/position-is-all-about-comfort-and-efficiency.html My guess is by lowering your bar, you back is flat. Bottom line, if it does not hurt and give you the performance level you want, it is good. Ron On May 12, 10:03 pm, John R Ferguson jfergu...@medicalwriter.net wrote: As some of you may remember, I recently built up a Saluki with your generous help in selecting components. I have an on-and-off bad back, and thought it would be a great idea to raise the handlebars substantially above the level of the seat. Didn't solve the problem, so I ended up lowering the bars to seat level. Magically, my back pain disappeared. The lesson for me is that high bars aren't a magic solution to back problems. I think in my case, the bars when raised were just at the right height to put a lot of stress on my back. In any case, if you're suffering like I was, give it a shot. You never know. Raised bars:http://www.flickr.com/photos/36397...@n06/3357251749/ Current fit:http://www.flickr.com/photos/36397...@n06/3513513651/ John Ferguson New York, NY --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Back problems--finally figured it out
Just proves once again that one-size-fits-all (or one-philosophy-fits- all, as in raise 'd bars!) does not work for everyone. --Eric campyonly...@me.com www.campyonly.com www.wheelsnorth.org On May 13, 2009, at 12:09 PM, RonLau wrote: I will suggest you read this blog entry by Dave Moulton http://davesbikeblog.squarespace.com/blog/2007/8/17/position-is-all-about-comfort-and-efficiency.html My guess is by lowering your bar, you back is flat. Bottom line, if it does not hurt and give you the performance level you want, it is good. Ron On May 12, 10:03 pm, John R Ferguson jfergu...@medicalwriter.net wrote: As some of you may remember, I recently built up a Saluki with your generous help in selecting components. I have an on-and-off bad back, and thought it would be a great idea to raise the handlebars substantially above the level of the seat. Didn't solve the problem, so I ended up lowering the bars to seat level. Magically, my back pain disappeared. The lesson for me is that high bars aren't a magic solution to back problems. I think in my case, the bars when raised were just at the right height to put a lot of stress on my back. In any case, if you're suffering like I was, give it a shot. You never know. Raised bars:http://www.flickr.com/photos/36397...@n06/3357251749/ Current fit:http://www.flickr.com/photos/36397...@n06/3513513651/ John Ferguson New York, NY --Eric campyonly...@me.com www.campyonly.com www.wheelsnorth.org --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Back problems--finally figured it out
On Tue, May 12, 2009 at 11:13 PM, John Ferguson rfj1...@yahoo.com wrote: As some of you may remember, I recently built up a Saluki with your generous help in selecting components. I have an on-and-off bad back, and thought it would be a great idea to raise the handlebars substantially above the level of the seat. Didn't solve the problem, so I ended up lowering the bars to seat level. Magically, my back pain disappeared. The lesson for me is that high bars aren't a magic solution to back problems. I think in my case, the bars when raised were just at the right height to put a lot of stress on my back. In any case, if you're suffering like I was, give it a shot. You never know. FWIW, my lowish (by Riv standards, anyway: 2 below saddle) bar position actually seems to help my back. I know that I get sore back only when I don't ride, or when (recently) I spend too much time hunched over my workbench. But the odd thing is that, on the few occasions I've had significant back pain, the roughly 45 degree hoods position was one of the few positions and situations where my back didn't hurt. This was true some 15 years ago when I had a weird flu that left my muscles stiff and sore for a year afterward; and much more recently when I hurt my back by unpreparedly stepping into a depression when walking in the wood: in both cases, it hurt to stand up and walk, but as long as I was on the hoods or in the drops, I was comfortable. (Getting off the bike was painful.) Now, caveat: When I ride more than, say, 35 miles, of which, say, 15 or more are in the drops, then my neck gets sore; so my low bar position is good only for my short distance riding. But for up to my usual 35 miles or less riding, it is supremely comfortable. -- Patrick Moore Albuquerque, NM Professional Resumes. Contact resumespecialt...@gmail.com --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: NOS Shimano 600 brake levers (free)
Chris: I don't *need* them, but they would be good backup for my m-barr'd grocery bike, which now sports some originally very nice but now rather battered 600 non-aeros. By all means give them to a more needy person, but if after a week or so they are still hangning around forlornly, I'm interested. Thanks. On Tue, May 12, 2009 at 11:50 PM, cm chrispmur...@hotmail.com wrote: I have a pair of Shimano 600 EX brake levers up for grabs if anyone wants'em. They are non-aero and I do not have hoods. A few very light scratches from years of sitting. I was hoping to use them on my Bleriot but it wasnt meant to be. Anyway, If you are interested let me know. Cheers! cm -- Patrick Moore Albuquerque, NM Professional Resumes. Contact resumespecialt...@gmail.com --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Zyglo analysis useful?
Just ride and smile, my friend. On May 13, 6:17 am, mitchelr mitch...@onid.orst.edu wrote: Hope this is not too far off topic. I have an old Sugino Impel crankset I want to bring back into use specifically because of its 94/58 five arm configuration (and the daunting cost of alternatives such as the TA Carmina). Ebay supplied an old Sugino set. But is it any good? My LBS folks looked it over and offered assurances but I'm still uncertain. Has anyone every used the Zyglo dye analysis process for parts such as a crank and if so was it worthwhile? I'm presuming automotive engine rebuilders will have the dyes and UV lighting but are there other sources? Many thanks for the good advice on this odd project. Rich Mitchell, Corvallis Oregon --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] toptube length on saluki?
to grant, why is the toptube on a 58cm saluki .5cm longer than a 60cm ram? don c. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: toptube length on saluki?
Don, I'm not Grant, but I can hazard a couple of guesses. The longer TT provides more room for fat tires and fenders on the Saluki, with less toe overlap. The intended owner for the sportier Ram would probably be more likely to tolerate a bit of overlap than the presumably more touring-oriented Saluki owner. The shallower head angle of the Saluki actually brings the stem back a bit towards the rider. That reduces the reach to the bars making the TT act a bit shorter than it measures. The taller the stem, the more that effect will be seen. The hypothetical Ram owner is likely to have a more sporting bent and keep the bars a tad lower, which moves the bars further forward and lengthens the reach. So, the 'luki gets a longer TT. Sound reasonable? Bill On May 13, 7:19 pm, dpco dcompton1...@sbcglobal.net wrote: to grant, why is the toptube on a 58cm saluki .5cm longer than a 60cm ram? don c. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Zyglo analysis useful?
We use the Magnaflux Spotcheck dye penetrant system at work. It's easy to use, and will highlight cracks the reach the surface. No UV needed. A set of the three spray cans needed will run you under $40 (plus shippping) from Grainger or McMaster-Carr. Bill On May 13, 4:17 am, mitchelr mitch...@onid.orst.edu wrote: Hope this is not too far off topic. I have an old Sugino Impel crankset I want to bring back into use specifically because of its 94/58 five arm configuration (and the daunting cost of alternatives such as the TA Carmina). Ebay supplied an old Sugino set. But is it any good? My LBS folks looked it over and offered assurances but I'm still uncertain. Has anyone every used the Zyglo dye analysis process for parts such as a crank and if so was it worthwhile? I'm presuming automotive engine rebuilders will have the dyes and UV lighting but are there other sources? Many thanks for the good advice on this odd project. Rich Mitchell, Corvallis Oregon --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Back problems--finally figured it out
Boy, Moulton's experience hit home with me. I went from a 10 CM stem and Noodle bar (110 mm reach?) on my Riv Road, to an 8 cm stem with a Ritchie Biomax bar (80 mm reach) set 3 cm lower, and was more comfortable. My back angle didn't change much, but my hands are now not so far in front of my shoulders and it's less strain to hold up my torso. Amazing what turning 50 does to your body! Bill On May 13, 12:09 pm, RonLau ron...@ronlau.com wrote: I will suggest you read this blog entry by Dave Moulton http://davesbikeblog.squarespace.com/blog/2007/8/17/position-is-all-a... My guess is by lowering your bar, you back is flat. Bottom line, if it does not hurt and give you the performance level you want, it is good. Ron On May 12, 10:03 pm, John R Ferguson jfergu...@medicalwriter.net wrote: As some of you may remember, I recently built up a Saluki with your generous help in selecting components. I have an on-and-off bad back, and thought it would be a great idea to raise the handlebars substantially above the level of the seat. Didn't solve the problem, so I ended up lowering the bars to seat level. Magically, my back pain disappeared. The lesson for me is that high bars aren't a magic solution to back problems. I think in my case, the bars when raised were just at the right height to put a lot of stress on my back. In any case, if you're suffering like I was, give it a shot. You never know. Raised bars:http://www.flickr.com/photos/36397...@n06/3357251749/ Current fit:http://www.flickr.com/photos/36397...@n06/3513513651/ John Ferguson New York, NY --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: toptube length on saluki?
the only thing is that the toptube is measured along its top horizontal line. thats after the shallow headtube is taken into consideration. and, because of the necessary increase in fork rake, there will be more toe clip space. it just seems to me that the saluki is a long bike relative to the riv traditional geo. don c. --- On Wed, 5/13/09, Bill M. bmenn...@comcast.net wrote: From: Bill M. bmenn...@comcast.net Subject: [RBW] Re: toptube length on saluki? To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com Date: Wednesday, May 13, 2009, 7:47 PM Don, I'm not Grant, but I can hazard a couple of guesses. The longer TT provides more room for fat tires and fenders on the Saluki, with less toe overlap. The intended owner for the sportier Ram would probably be more likely to tolerate a bit of overlap than the presumably more touring-oriented Saluki owner. The shallower head angle of the Saluki actually brings the stem back a bit towards the rider. That reduces the reach to the bars making the TT act a bit shorter than it measures. The taller the stem, the more that effect will be seen. The hypothetical Ram owner is likely to have a more sporting bent and keep the bars a tad lower, which moves the bars further forward and lengthens the reach. So, the 'luki gets a longer TT. Sound reasonable? Bill On May 13, 7:19 pm, dpco dcompton1...@sbcglobal.net wrote: to grant, why is the toptube on a 58cm saluki .5cm longer than a 60cm ram? don c. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] FS: 58cm QB, green and oh so fantastic
So I'm sure I'll regret this in a few weeks, but cash money talks... I haven't owned this long. As you'll see in the photos the crank, brakes and rack are still attached. http://tinyurl.com/pmgprt Selling the frame only, or frame plus rack, or frame plus brakes and rack, or frames plus brakes as follows: frame (bb, headset): $825 frame + brakes (tektro CR720): $860 frame + rack (Nitto mini front): $900 frame + brakes + rack: $935 Buyer to pay shipping. So this is fair, and since I don't check email that often, I'm going to give it to the first person who contacts me via email and comes through with payment. I'll do Paypal even though I lose money on the fees. Payment must be made within 48 hours or I'll move on down the list. Just trying to give everyone a shot. BTW money talks and all's fair in love and bikes. Cheers, Colin Cummings Amarillo, TX --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Ruffy Tuffy tire problems
I've consistently had problems with Ruffy Tuffies over the years. Yet another pair is starting to separate along the tread: http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/3529285691/ That said (and seen), I store my bikes in a hot shed. It's exposed to the southern sun and gets HOT in there (There is no electricty, so there isn't ozone from a motor in there). Also, these aren't brand new tires, but are several years old. Most I bought used. Buut, I have three sets of Paselas, one set of Col de la Vies, and one set of generic 650A tires in the same shed along w/ the kid's BMX bikes. NO PROBLEMS with any of those tires, and they are significantly older (one set of Paselas is probably close to 10 years). Has anyone else had this problem? The cracking/separation is very consistent, right along the line separating the different squares on the surface pattern. Sidewalls are fine. Low miles on 'em, you can still see the cross-file tread in the squares. Note: this isn't bagging on Rivendell/Grant/Panaracer/Lance Armstrong, just simply starting a discussion about what I've noticed. Am I doing something wrong in storing them, and if so, why isn't it a problem w/ other tires? This hasn't stopped me from buying Ruffy Tuffies, but I'm sure not getting my $$$ out of them. -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Crazy ebay had for an AHH
WTF? *http://tinyurl.com/puu8jw* -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Ruffy Tuffy tire problems
Yup. Same thing happened to my Ruffy Tuffies. I sent photos to RBW and they said it was fairly common with RTs, but nothing to worry about unless it looked like the casing was splitting as well. I retired them soon thereafter, simply for peace of mind, even though they appeared to have tons of tread left. I switched to the Roll-y Pol-y and like them much better. And so far neither they nor the Jack Brown greens have split like the RTs did. Maybe it has to do with the thicker tread on the RTs compared to the thinner tread on the RP and JB green. If you haven't yet tried the RPs you ought to. In my experience they ride way better than the RTs -- they don't have that thuddy feel that the RTs do. Aaron On May 13, 8:51 pm, David Estes cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote: I've consistently had problems with Ruffy Tuffies over the years. Yet another pair is starting to separate along the tread: http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/3529285691/ That said (and seen), I store my bikes in a hot shed. It's exposed to the southern sun and gets HOT in there (There is no electricty, so there isn't ozone from a motor in there). Also, these aren't brand new tires, but are several years old. Most I bought used. Buut, I have three sets of Paselas, one set of Col de la Vies, and one set of generic 650A tires in the same shed along w/ the kid's BMX bikes. NO PROBLEMS with any of those tires, and they are significantly older (one set of Paselas is probably close to 10 years). Has anyone else had this problem? The cracking/separation is very consistent, right along the line separating the different squares on the surface pattern. Sidewalls are fine. Low miles on 'em, you can still see the cross-file tread in the squares. Note: this isn't bagging on Rivendell/Grant/Panaracer/Lance Armstrong, just simply starting a discussion about what I've noticed. Am I doing something wrong in storing them, and if so, why isn't it a problem w/ other tires? This hasn't stopped me from buying Ruffy Tuffies, but I'm sure not getting my $$$ out of them. -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Ruffy Tuffy tire problems
I don't recall reading about this w/ anyone else, so nice to see it's not just me (and my hot shed). Interesting that the JBs and RPs don't do this... I wonder about the Maxy Fasty are like. I really want to put some JBs on there, but clearance is REALLY tight for that under the rear brake arch. Tempted to try out some Grand Bois tires, but Gino's scared me away from them!!! ;-) I'll keep em' going for a while longer, but yeah, it's pretty nervous to see a crack in your tire! On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 9:08 PM, Aaron Thomas aaron.a.tho...@gmail.comwrote: Yup. Same thing happened to my Ruffy Tuffies. I sent photos to RBW and they said it was fairly common with RTs, but nothing to worry about unless it looked like the casing was splitting as well. I retired them soon thereafter, simply for peace of mind, even though they appeared to have tons of tread left. I switched to the Roll-y Pol-y and like them much better. And so far neither they nor the Jack Brown greens have split like the RTs did. Maybe it has to do with the thicker tread on the RTs compared to the thinner tread on the RP and JB green. If you haven't yet tried the RPs you ought to. In my experience they ride way better than the RTs -- they don't have that thuddy feel that the RTs do. Aaron On May 13, 8:51 pm, David Estes cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote: I've consistently had problems with Ruffy Tuffies over the years. Yet another pair is starting to separate along the tread: http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/3529285691/ That said (and seen), I store my bikes in a hot shed. It's exposed to the southern sun and gets HOT in there (There is no electricty, so there isn't ozone from a motor in there). Also, these aren't brand new tires, but are several years old. Most I bought used. Buut, I have three sets of Paselas, one set of Col de la Vies, and one set of generic 650A tires in the same shed along w/ the kid's BMX bikes. NO PROBLEMS with any of those tires, and they are significantly older (one set of Paselas is probably close to 10 years). Has anyone else had this problem? The cracking/separation is very consistent, right along the line separating the different squares on the surface pattern. Sidewalls are fine. Low miles on 'em, you can still see the cross-file tread in the squares. Note: this isn't bagging on Rivendell/Grant/Panaracer/Lance Armstrong, just simply starting a discussion about what I've noticed. Am I doing something wrong in storing them, and if so, why isn't it a problem w/ other tires? This hasn't stopped me from buying Ruffy Tuffies, but I'm sure not getting my $$$ out of them. -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Ruffy Tuffy tire problems
Gino scared me away from the GB also. Instead, I gave the Challenge Parigi-Roubaix a try and liked them a lot. They have slightly more volume than the RT and RP, and so far have been puncture free. They ride a lot like the RP (i.e. no RT thud), although I've found their grip to be a little unsure in damp turns. No crashes yet, however. The one thing I don't particularly care for in the Parigi-Roubaix is the herringbone tread. It makes a lot of noise, and I suspect the herringbone pattern might account for some of the slippage I've felt in turns. If they came in a simple slick they'd be so much better! A On May 13, 9:14 pm, David Estes cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote: I don't recall reading about this w/ anyone else, so nice to see it's not just me (and my hot shed). Interesting that the JBs and RPs don't do this... I wonder about the Maxy Fasty are like. I really want to put some JBs on there, but clearance is REALLY tight for that under the rear brake arch. Tempted to try out some Grand Bois tires, but Gino's scared me away from them!!! ;-) I'll keep em' going for a while longer, but yeah, it's pretty nervous to see a crack in your tire! On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 9:08 PM, Aaron Thomas aaron.a.tho...@gmail.comwrote: Yup. Same thing happened to my Ruffy Tuffies. I sent photos to RBW and they said it was fairly common with RTs, but nothing to worry about unless it looked like the casing was splitting as well. I retired them soon thereafter, simply for peace of mind, even though they appeared to have tons of tread left. I switched to the Roll-y Pol-y and like them much better. And so far neither they nor the Jack Brown greens have split like the RTs did. Maybe it has to do with the thicker tread on the RTs compared to the thinner tread on the RP and JB green. If you haven't yet tried the RPs you ought to. In my experience they ride way better than the RTs -- they don't have that thuddy feel that the RTs do. Aaron On May 13, 8:51 pm, David Estes cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote: I've consistently had problems with Ruffy Tuffies over the years. Yet another pair is starting to separate along the tread: http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/3529285691/ That said (and seen), I store my bikes in a hot shed. It's exposed to the southern sun and gets HOT in there (There is no electricty, so there isn't ozone from a motor in there). Also, these aren't brand new tires, but are several years old. Most I bought used. Buut, I have three sets of Paselas, one set of Col de la Vies, and one set of generic 650A tires in the same shed along w/ the kid's BMX bikes. NO PROBLEMS with any of those tires, and they are significantly older (one set of Paselas is probably close to 10 years). Has anyone else had this problem? The cracking/separation is very consistent, right along the line separating the different squares on the surface pattern. Sidewalls are fine. Low miles on 'em, you can still see the cross-file tread in the squares. Note: this isn't bagging on Rivendell/Grant/Panaracer/Lance Armstrong, just simply starting a discussion about what I've noticed. Am I doing something wrong in storing them, and if so, why isn't it a problem w/ other tires? This hasn't stopped me from buying Ruffy Tuffies, but I'm sure not getting my $$$ out of them. -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Ruffy Tuffy tire problems
I have never tried taking them off-road. The casing seems very durable. But the tread did get a couple of cuts after not many miles of pavement riding, and that might be a cause for concern. They could probably handle some dirt paths, but probably no Rough Riders type stuff. On May 13, 10:02 pm, David Estes cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote: Interesting... do you think the Challenge can hold up to trail use? On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 9:24 PM, Aaron Thomas aaron.a.tho...@gmail.comwrote: Gino scared me away from the GB also. Instead, I gave the Challenge Parigi-Roubaix a try and liked them a lot. They have slightly more volume than the RT and RP, and so far have been puncture free. They ride a lot like the RP (i.e. no RT thud), although I've found their grip to be a little unsure in damp turns. No crashes yet, however. The one thing I don't particularly care for in the Parigi-Roubaix is the herringbone tread. It makes a lot of noise, and I suspect the herringbone pattern might account for some of the slippage I've felt in turns. If they came in a simple slick they'd be so much better! A On May 13, 9:14 pm, David Estes cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote: I don't recall reading about this w/ anyone else, so nice to see it's not just me (and my hot shed). Interesting that the JBs and RPs don't do this... I wonder about the Maxy Fasty are like. I really want to put some JBs on there, but clearance is REALLY tight for that under the rear brake arch. Tempted to try out some Grand Bois tires, but Gino's scared me away from them!!! ;-) I'll keep em' going for a while longer, but yeah, it's pretty nervous to see a crack in your tire! On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 9:08 PM, Aaron Thomas aaron.a.tho...@gmail.com wrote: Yup. Same thing happened to my Ruffy Tuffies. I sent photos to RBW and they said it was fairly common with RTs, but nothing to worry about unless it looked like the casing was splitting as well. I retired them soon thereafter, simply for peace of mind, even though they appeared to have tons of tread left. I switched to the Roll-y Pol-y and like them much better. And so far neither they nor the Jack Brown greens have split like the RTs did. Maybe it has to do with the thicker tread on the RTs compared to the thinner tread on the RP and JB green. If you haven't yet tried the RPs you ought to. In my experience they ride way better than the RTs -- they don't have that thuddy feel that the RTs do. Aaron On May 13, 8:51 pm, David Estes cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote: I've consistently had problems with Ruffy Tuffies over the years. Yet another pair is starting to separate along the tread: http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/3529285691/ That said (and seen), I store my bikes in a hot shed. It's exposed to the southern sun and gets HOT in there (There is no electricty, so there isn't ozone from a motor in there). Also, these aren't brand new tires, but are several years old. Most I bought used. Buut, I have three sets of Paselas, one set of Col de la Vies, and one set of generic 650A tires in the same shed along w/ the kid's BMX bikes. NO PROBLEMS with any of those tires, and they are significantly older (one set of Paselas is probably close to 10 years). Has anyone else had this problem? The cracking/separation is very consistent, right along the line separating the different squares on the surface pattern. Sidewalls are fine. Low miles on 'em, you can still see the cross-file tread in the squares. Note: this isn't bagging on Rivendell/Grant/Panaracer/Lance Armstrong, just simply starting a discussion about what I've noticed. Am I doing something wrong in storing them, and if so, why isn't it a problem w/ other tires? This hasn't stopped me from buying Ruffy Tuffies, but I'm sure not getting my $$$ out of them. -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
