[RBW] Peter Brunn wants to chat

2011-07-01 Thread Peter Brunn
---

Peter Brunn wants to stay in better touch using some of Google's coolest new
products.

If you already have Gmail or Google Talk, visit:
http://mail.google.com/mail/b-4e34ad5dd7-d94d87d062-7CXjeR27DRwlJoh1wZUd1LZ35vE
You'll need to click this link to be able to chat with Peter Brunn.

To get Gmail - a free email account from Google with over 2,800 megabytes of
storage - and chat with Peter Brunn, visit:
http://mail.google.com/mail/a-4e34ad5dd7-d94d87d062-7CXjeR27DRwlJoh1wZUd1LZ35vE

Gmail offers:
- Instant messaging right inside Gmail
- Powerful spam protection
- Built-in search for finding your messages and a helpful way of organizing
  emails into conversations
- No pop-up ads or untargeted banners - just text ads and related information
  that are relevant to the content of your messages

All this, and its yours for free. But wait, there's more! By opening a Gmail
account, you also get access to Google Talk, Google's instant messaging
service:

http://www.google.com/talk/

Google Talk offers:
- Web-based chat that you can use anywhere, without a download
- A contact list that's synchronized with your Gmail account
- Free, high quality PC-to-PC voice calls when you download the Google Talk
  client

We're working hard to add new features and make improvements, so we might also
ask for your comments and suggestions periodically. We appreciate your help in
making our products even better!

Thanks,
The Google Team

To learn more about Gmail and Google Talk, visit:
http://mail.google.com/mail/help/about.html
http://www.google.com/talk/about.html

(If clicking the URLs in this message does not work, copy and paste them into
the address bar of your browser).

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[RBW] Re: Peter Brunn wants to chat

2011-07-01 Thread dan gee
This is exactly why I disable every 'feature' Google tries to compel
me to use... check some innocuous box, and next thing you know, it's
spamming the world on your behalf!


On Jul 1, 3:38 am, Peter Brunn bpete...@gmail.com wrote:
 ---

 Peter Brunn wants to stay in better touch using some of Google's coolest new
 products.

 If you already have Gmail or Google Talk, 
 visit:http://mail.google.com/mail/b-4e34ad5dd7-d94d87d062-7CXjeR27DRwlJoh1w...
 You'll need to click this link to be able to chat with Peter Brunn.

 To get Gmail - a free email account from Google with over 2,800 megabytes of
 storage - and chat with Peter Brunn, 
 visit:http://mail.google.com/mail/a-4e34ad5dd7-d94d87d062-7CXjeR27DRwlJoh1w...

 Gmail offers:
 - Instant messaging right inside Gmail
 - Powerful spam protection
 - Built-in search for finding your messages and a helpful way of organizing
   emails into conversations
 - No pop-up ads or untargeted banners - just text ads and related information
   that are relevant to the content of your messages

 All this, and its yours for free. But wait, there's more! By opening a Gmail
 account, you also get access to Google Talk, Google's instant messaging
 service:

 http://www.google.com/talk/

 Google Talk offers:
 - Web-based chat that you can use anywhere, without a download
 - A contact list that's synchronized with your Gmail account
 - Free, high quality PC-to-PC voice calls when you download the Google Talk
   client

 We're working hard to add new features and make improvements, so we might also
 ask for your comments and suggestions periodically. We appreciate your help in
 making our products even better!

 Thanks,
 The Google Team

 To learn more about Gmail and Google Talk, 
 visit:http://mail.google.com/mail/help/about.htmlhttp://www.google.com/talk/about.html

 (If clicking the URLs in this message does not work, copy and paste them into
 the address bar of your browser).

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[RBW] protecting raw metal cranks

2011-07-01 Thread Jeffrey
I just removed the black anodization and rust from the cranks on my old 
Bridgestone MB6 winter/beater/townie bike.  They not stainless steel and are 
a bit pitted. 

Will they rust right up in my maritime climate?

What should I do to keep it from rusting? 

Cover them in oil? 

What kind of oil?

Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: fs: Rivendell 650b wheels + extra tires/tubes GRAN BOIS

2011-07-01 Thread Eric
Thanks to Ray these are headed to SF!



On Jun 27, 10:21 pm, Ray Shine r.sh...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
 Would you also throw in four visiting team dugout tickets to Giants visit 
 this week?

 
 From: Eric ericwolfo...@gmail.com
 To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Monday, June 27, 2011 12:34 PM
 Subject: [RBW] fs: Rivendell 650b wheels + extra tires/tubes GRAN BOIS

 Rivendell/Rich built 650b wheelset comprised of Shimano LX hubs/
 Velocity Synergy rims (32h hubs). Comes with 3.5 sets of tires. You
 have the Gran Bois Cypress on the wheels right now. Plus you'll get a
 set of Panaracer Col De Vie, a set of Fatty Rumpkins and ONE Maxy
 Fasty tire. All tires are gently used. You will also get FOUR new 650b
 tubes on top of the two in the wheels right now. Skewers included. No
 cassette included. $350 for everything or I'm able to sell just the
 tires or just the wheelset, let me know! Shipping is always a
 possibility!

 CL ad:http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/bik/2455147373.html

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[RBW] How to treat large dings that have rusted?

2011-07-01 Thread Jeffrey
I have several large abrasions through the paint that have rusted. what do 
you do to treat them? If I just paint/fingernail polish them will that stop 
the rust underneath, or do I need to remove the rust first? If so, how?

Thanks,
Jeff

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Re: [RBW] protecting raw metal cranks

2011-07-01 Thread CycloFiend
on 7/1/11 7:12 AM, Jeffrey at unclecowb...@gmail.com wrote:

I just removed the black anodization and rust from the cranks on my old
Bridgestone MB6 winter/beater/townie bike.  They not stainless steel and are
a bit pitted. 

Will they rust right up in my maritime climate?

What should I do to keep it from rusting?

Cover them in oil? 

What kind of oil?

Thanks!

These general maintenence questions for non-Riv items are probably better
suited for iBob or the BL group.

But, if your cranks were steel, they were probably enameled rather than
anodized.  If they were anodized, they were probably aluminim and wouldn't
show rust the same way as with ferrous steel. Aluminum maintains a layer of
topical oxidation, which, as we remember from Zen and the Art of Motorcycle
Maintenance (the BMW handlebar shim episode...) prevents further oxidation.

Of course, if you are in a true marine environment, then you know that
aluminum will continue to oxidize (get furry) and stainless means what
it states (i.e. not stain-free).

Enamel will protect the steel.  As will powder coating.  If it's raw steel
(test with a magnet if you are unsure), it will corrode.  An oil layer might
delay that, but anything short of packing grease will allow salt intrustion.

hope that helps,

- J

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes

Gallery updates now appear here - http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com

The bike between her legs was like some hyper-evolved alien tail she'd
somehow extruded, as though over patient centuries; a sweet and intricate
bone-machine, grown Lexan-armored tires, near-frictionless bearings, and gas
filled shocks.

William Gibson - Virtual Light


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Re: [RBW] How to treat large dings that have rusted?

2011-07-01 Thread CycloFiend
on 7/1/11 7:15 AM, Jeffrey at unclecowb...@gmail.com wrote:

I have several large abrasions through the paint that have rusted. what do
you do to treat them? If I just paint/fingernail polish them will that stop
the rust underneath, or do I need to remove the rust first? If so, how?

Clean the rust with fine steel wool, then enamel.

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes

Gallery updates now appear here - http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com

Then I sat up, wiped the water out of my eyes, and looked at my bike, and
just like that I knew it was dead

-- Robert McCammon, Boy's Life

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[RBW] Touch Up Paint Suggestion

2011-07-01 Thread rlc5925
Looking for suggestions for touch up paint in the (white/cream) lug
area. Thanks

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Re: [RBW] Re: fs: Rivendell 650b wheels + extra tires/tubes GRAN BOIS

2011-07-01 Thread Ray Shine
You're welcome. Who is the shipper, and id there a tracking number?





From: Eric ericwolfo...@gmail.com
To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2011 9:22 PM
Subject: [RBW] Re: fs: Rivendell 650b wheels + extra tires/tubes GRAN BOIS

Thanks to Ray these are headed to SF!



On Jun 27, 10:21 pm, Ray Shine r.sh...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
 Would you also throw in four visiting team dugout tickets to Giants visit 
 this week?

 
 From: Eric ericwolfo...@gmail.com
 To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Monday, June 27, 2011 12:34 PM
 Subject: [RBW] fs: Rivendell 650b wheels + extra tires/tubes GRAN BOIS

 Rivendell/Rich built 650b wheelset comprised of Shimano LX hubs/
 Velocity Synergy rims (32h hubs). Comes with 3.5 sets of tires. You
 have the Gran Bois Cypress on the wheels right now. Plus you'll get a
 set of Panaracer Col De Vie, a set of Fatty Rumpkins and ONE Maxy
 Fasty tire. All tires are gently used. You will also get FOUR new 650b
 tubes on top of the two in the wheels right now. Skewers included. No
 cassette included. $350 for everything or I'm able to sell just the
 tires or just the wheelset, let me know! Shipping is always a
 possibility!

 CL ad:http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/bik/2455147373.html

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Google format

2011-07-01 Thread Michael Glaser
Is it just me, or is this new format a whole lot less useful?

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Google format

2011-07-01 Thread Aaron Thomas
I dunno. I think it might be just you, because I love it.

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[RBW] Re: Touch Up Paint Suggestion

2011-07-01 Thread Jim Cloud
I suggest that you check out the paints from your local hobby shop.
There are often a huge number of paints that are made for various
types of models (cars, military aircraft, etc.) that would allow you
to find something suitable.  If you're looking for an exact match, you
might need to do some judicious paint mixing (adding some white, for
example).

Jim Cloud
Tucson, AZ

On Jul 1, 8:12 am, rlc5925 rlc5...@gmail.com wrote:
 Looking for suggestions for touch up paint in the (white/cream) lug
 area. Thanks

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[RBW] Re: wow

2011-07-01 Thread Ryan
I have to admit I like those simple ones. I think I'd really like it in 
maroon . If I didn't already have 2 rivendells one of which is green and my  
resurrected Peugeot PX10 as a single-speed I'd be tempted:)

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Google format

2011-07-01 Thread Michael Glaser
That's encouraging actually.  Maybe I'm being too much of a retrogrouch when 
it comes to technology.  With bikes, it's okay =)

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Re: [RBW] Re: wow

2011-07-01 Thread James Warren

You know what would be awesome: a derailleurless Rivendell frame just like the 
Simpleone but with 135 rear spacing and some cable stops that make it ready to 
handle this in 11:

http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/0/alfine.html#


or one of these:

http://www.fallbrooktech.com/Docs/GearInch_32011.pdf



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[RBW] Re: I caved...totally, epically caved...

2011-07-01 Thread William
Report so far.  I ended up getting a grip of stuff.  A brevet jersey, bib 
shorts, armwarmers, kneewarmers, and their skincare bundle.  The jersey 
looked great, but it was too small.  I bought a Medium in everything.  I'm 
5'10 175lbs.  The shorts and kneewarmers fit well, but the jersey and 
armwarmers were too small.  I've returned them and will exercise the Rapha 
customer service. They had provided a return label, and the online 
instructions were really easy to follow.  We'll see how that goes.

No feedback on the skincare stuff, except that I like how it smells.

The bib shorts are really nice.  I've always had several pair of regular 
shorts.  Bibs are just a lot nicer around the waist.  Those of us with a 
muffintop boiler appreciate it.  I dread to think what it'll cost me to 
totally convert, but for now I have two sets of bib shorts (the others are 
Pearl).  Bib knickers are definitely on my want list.  The shorts are made 
in Italy for the sweatshop handwringers out there.  A nice bonus was they 
came with a tiny tub of Rapha chamois cream.  The pad appears to be very 
high tech according to the attached literature, but dude is it thick.  I've 
always hated people who call padded cycling shorts 'diapers'.  It's actually 
a major pet peeve of mine.  That said, this pad is really thick, 
like...um...well... it's thick.  I'm sure I'll grow accustomed to it, but it 
is different than anything I've used (mainly Descente and Pearl).  I'll have 
to do a 200k or 300k with these to see if it makes a difference.  On the 35 
mile commute to the office, they were great, but overkill on the padding 
side.  Maybe I should put an unpadded 150g saddle on :)  

The kneewarmers worked great, and have a nice reflective accent that I 
appreciated.  

That's it for now.  

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[RBW] Re: The bike collection (or hoard?)

2011-07-01 Thread Ryan
93 X0-1
early 70's Peugeot PX-10 now set up as a single-speed 
1996 Riv all-rounder
2001 Curt-built Riv Road

I love them all but this season I've been riding my Peugeot a lot. There's a 
nostalgia factor, the Peugeot was my first really good bike that I bought 
when I was 20. I had 2 stolen and the single-speed is my third that I
was lucky enough to find in a local bike store in 1982. I rode  centuries, 
toured and commuted on it ,but semi-retired it in 88 when an incorrectly 
threaded headset installed by another store(won't name names) munged the 
fork. I got a NOS black tange fork on it, set it up with moustache bars and 
a Nitto stem, put a nice old pair of 36-hole campy hubbed clinchers w 700X35 
Paselas and I couldn't be happier. The goal was to set up a nice rider; it 
is not a restoration. Original paint with lots of war wounds but no rust and 
that  fine steel ride..probably why I fell in love with Grant Petersen's 
bikes and I have 3 of them

Can't see myself selling any of these any time soon...they're special bikes.

Cheers from Canada

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[RBW] Re: The bike collection (or hoard?)

2011-07-01 Thread Scotty
'89 Schwinn Voyageur That I basically got for free. I paid 80 for it and the 
guy gave me a matching lady bike that I trued the wheels and sold for 80. 
:-) Great Bike. I meant to make it a single speed but it rides and shifts so 
nice as it is that I am holding off on that idea.
 
05 Surly LHT. It is my current main ride and has been serving me very well, 
even though the frame is a bit small for me. It is a 54cm with 26wheels. I 
have it set up that it fits me but to do it again I would have bought a 56.
 
Very old, 50s Ross cruiser that will be a little project when I get around 
to it.
 
Brand spankin new A Homer Hilsen that I dont even have yet. I ordered it in 
March and it should be arriving any old time now. 
 
On my wish list is a Surly Pugsley, which would be very impractical for my 
needs but I want one anyway, and a steel frame 29er mountain bike.

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Re: [RBW] Re: The bike collection (or hoard?)

2011-07-01 Thread Bruce Herbitter
Nice herd Ryan!  After saying I needed to thin mine down, I couldn't say no
when a friend asked if I could take a 1987 Panasonic Team America in
excellent shape off his hands... So, do I leave it as is, or 650B it?  h

On Fri, Jul 1, 2011 at 2:08 PM, Ryan ryter...@mts.net wrote:

 93 X0-1
 early 70's Peugeot PX-10 now set up as a single-speed
 1996 Riv all-rounder
 2001 Curt-built Riv Road



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Re: [RBW] Re: New Google format

2011-07-01 Thread Ediblestarfish
It's just a matter of getting used to the new format.  For what it's worth, on 
my phone, it's now properly scaled to fit, unlike the old version.

Immensely helpful when I travel (especially on bike ;) and do the majority of 
my web browsing on a 5 display. 

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Re: [RBW] protecting raw metal cranks

2011-07-01 Thread Jeffrey
Jim, Thanks for the reply, and I will post these kinds of questions to iBob 
in the future. Seems I have ferrous steel cranks, and now that I've cleaned 
and scraped them, I'm in for some unstoppable rust. Doh! File under live 
and learn. Trying to make this old bike look better is a real learning 
experience. I'm prolly trying to make a purse out of a sow's ear. Thanks

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[RBW] Cross levers on 46cm Noodle bars?

2011-07-01 Thread Jay
I bought Forrest's Sam Hillborne and am having it built for commuting
in a mix of interurban roads and city traffic and the occasional tour.
Coming from a sordid MTB past, I currently commute on an old steel
mountain bike with slicks. I ordered the Nitto Noodle bars on faith,
never having actually used drop bars before.
I'm wondering if it wouldn't be a good idea to go with cross style
interrupter levers either in addition to or instead of the drop bar
brake levers for better control in traffic.
Or is it just a matter of getting used to the drop bar levers?

Thanks,
Jay

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Re: [RBW] protecting raw metal cranks

2011-07-01 Thread CycloFiend
on 7/1/11 9:40 AM, Jeffrey at unclecowb...@gmail.com wrote:

Jim, Thanks for the reply, and I will post these kinds of questions to iBob
in the future. Seems I have ferrous steel cranks, and now that I've cleaned
and scraped them, I'm in for some unstoppable rust. Doh! File under live
and learn. Trying to make this old bike look better is a real learning
experience. I'm prolly trying to make a purse out of a sow's ear. Thanks

One thing you might do is call around to local powder coaters and ask if
they might have a color run you could throw them into. You'd want to prep
the metal and mask the threads yourself, but it could be pretty inexpensive.
But, honestly, unless they were some early steel Campy or Bullseye cranks,
it's probably not too cost-effective.

You could use a spray enamel to prevent more rust.   Again - pre-prep and
primer is helpful. I've found auto detailers or parts stores are pretty
helpful at recommending specific paints.

- J
-- 
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[RBW] WTB: SlickerSack

2011-07-01 Thread Adam Kimball
Hi all,

I'm wondering if anyone out there has a used SlickerSack (the large
case that fits on a plat-rack) that they aren't using and want to
sell.  If so, write me.

Thanks,
Adam

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[RBW] Re: Cross levers on 46cm Noodle bars?

2011-07-01 Thread Minh

Personally I would learn to get use to it. But if you need the
security go for it. The 46 bars have a lot of space. And get the
interruptors with split lamps. Then you can take them off laterbwith
minimal fuss.

I had no issue adjusting to drops. The noodle also feels funny at
first but hang in the wide bars ate great.

On Jul 1, 11:55 am, Jay robin...@gmail.com wrote:
 I bought Forrest's Sam Hillborne and am having it built for commuting
 in a mix of interurban roads and city traffic and the occasional tour.
 Coming from a sordid MTB past, I currently commute on an old steel
 mountain bike with slicks. I ordered the Nitto Noodle bars on faith,
 never having actually used drop bars before.
 I'm wondering if it wouldn't be a good idea to go with cross style
 interrupter levers either in addition to or instead of the drop bar
 brake levers for better control in traffic.
 Or is it just a matter of getting used to the drop bar levers?

 Thanks,
 Jay

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Re: [RBW] Cross levers on 46cm Noodle bars?

2011-07-01 Thread Bruce Baker
I have found that on the Sam because of the frame geometry I use the
interrupter levers more than the
brakes.  In fact I'm starting to rebuild my stable and am test riding a
Specialized Tricross.  I kept looking for the interrupter levers that
weren't there.
If I buy it that is one change I would definitely make
Bruce

On Fri, Jul 1, 2011 at 11:55 AM, Jay robin...@gmail.com wrote:

 I bought Forrest's Sam Hillborne and am having it built for commuting
 in a mix of interurban roads and city traffic and the occasional tour.
 Coming from a sordid MTB past, I currently commute on an old steel
 mountain bike with slicks. I ordered the Nitto Noodle bars on faith,
 never having actually used drop bars before.
 I'm wondering if it wouldn't be a good idea to go with cross style
 interrupter levers either in addition to or instead of the drop bar
 brake levers for better control in traffic.
 Or is it just a matter of getting used to the drop bar levers?

 Thanks,
 Jay

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Re: [RBW] Cross levers on 46cm Noodle bars?

2011-07-01 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Not instead; possibly in addition to. But if you have your bars and
drop levers set up properly the question of needing another pair of
levers on the bar's flats doesn't even really arise for pavement
riding; they are useful sometimes for very rough or steep terrain
where you want to get way back on the saddle and thus cannot easily
reach the drop levers; but that apart, there's really no need --
again, if you set drop levers up right. You will probably be using the
hoods position more than any other, in any event, where the brake
levers are right to hand.

I installed them once on a mountain bike with drops and found them
only marginally useful; I debated adding them to my last three off
road bikes, all three also with drops, but decided against it: I
always have the bars high enough that I can reach road levers even
when pushed far off the rear of the saddle.

There is a reason why they are called cross levers: they were
developed for use as described above.


On Fri, Jul 1, 2011 at 9:55 AM, Jay robin...@gmail.com wrote:
 I bought Forrest's Sam Hillborne and am having it built for commuting
 in a mix of interurban roads and city traffic and the occasional tour.
 Coming from a sordid MTB past, I currently commute on an old steel
 mountain bike with slicks. I ordered the Nitto Noodle bars on faith,
 never having actually used drop bars before.
 I'm wondering if it wouldn't be a good idea to go with cross style
 interrupter levers either in addition to or instead of the drop bar
 brake levers for better control in traffic.
 Or is it just a matter of getting used to the drop bar levers?

 Thanks,
 Jay

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Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW
patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.
(Rilke, Buddha in Glory)

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Re: [RBW] Re: Cross levers on 46cm Noodle bars?

2011-07-01 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Fri, 2011-07-01 at 14:13 -0700, E.B. wrote:
 
 Adding interrupter levers gives you immediate access to the brakes
 while riding on the tops. This riding position puts you more
 upright, which in turn improves your sightline while commuting in
 traffic. I have interrupters on 46cm Noodles. Some might say they
 clutter the bar, add weight or complicate using a h-bar bag. I
 somewhat agree, but I still like mine. By the way, mine are Salsa
 Halter Top levers: beautifully made, comfortable in the hand,
 excellent braking modulation, and they match my Noodled Riv perfectly.
 While I haven't used the Paul Component cross lever, the others I've
 tried (Tektro/CC) were dismal in comparison. The Salsas are a bit
 pricey, however.

I have 46cm Noodles with Tektro interrupter levers on my Alex Moulton
AM.  Photos here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/97916047@N00/sets/72157624929495699/show/

I also have a couple of bikes with Paul cross levers, which I like a
lot.  I wouldn't call the Tektros dismal at all.  They feel different
than the Paul levers, but they work just fine.  And they're very cost
effective.

Incidentally, the two bikes (soon to be 3) with the Paul interrupter
levers both have handlebar bags.  I like the levers vertical under the
handlebar, and in that position there's plenty of room behind the bag
for the lever.  Photos here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/97916047@N00/sets/72157606169015639/show/
and
http://www.flickr.com/photos/97916047@N00/sets/72157603355855778/show/
Both those bikes have 44 cm Nitto 176 Dream bars.

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Re: [RBW] Cross levers on 46cm Noodle bars?

2011-07-01 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Fri, 2011-07-01 at 15:30 -0600, PATRICK MOORE wrote:
 Not instead; possibly in addition to. But if you have your bars and
 drop levers set up properly the question of needing another pair of
 levers on the bar's flats doesn't even really arise for pavement
 riding; they are useful sometimes for very rough or steep terrain
 where you want to get way back on the saddle and thus cannot easily
 reach the drop levers; but that apart, there's really no need --
 again, if you set drop levers up right. You will probably be using the
 hoods position more than any other, in any event, where the brake
 levers are right to hand.

If you like riding on the bar tops, as I do, you'll find the interrupter
levers very handy.  


 I installed them once on a mountain bike with drops and found them
 only marginally useful; I debated adding them to my last three off
 road bikes, all three also with drops, but decided against it: I
 always have the bars high enough that I can reach road levers even
 when pushed far off the rear of the saddle.

This is a personal preference thing.  I first started using them on a
commuter bike, where they most decidedly are really handy for riding in
traffic; but I decided I liked them well enough I put them on several
other bikes as well.  I have a set of Paul levers on the shelf waiting
for the new MAP Randonneur Project to arrive, and when that's built I'll
have four bikes with interrupter levers, three with Pauls.





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[RBW] Just a Review of my Bombadil

2011-07-01 Thread Kelly Sleeper
So I lied.  I can't review anything.  Besides a picture is worth a thousand 
words.. and not only will you not have to read my dribble I won't have to 
type it. 
 
This set is my favorite memories with my Bomba.. :)
 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tksleeper/sets/72157626967187631/
 
Now show me yours.
 
Kelly

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Re: [RBW] Cross levers on 46cm Noodle bars?

2011-07-01 Thread Michael_S
Not to rile any feathers, but as Patrick said if your bars/top tube are the 
 right length for you then they become an un-necessary bike addition. I feel 
that drop bar bikes should be set up so you can ride on the hoods most of 
the time. The wider stance is better for braking,steering and turning. 
 
Buying stock geometry bikes make this a tougher thing to do especially if 
you  have a shorter torso length. Most of the Rivendell bikes have longer 
tope tubes so to get the right seat tube frame size sometimes riders end up 
with 6 or 7 cm stems. When the top tube/stem  is too long riders find a more 
comfortable postion on the top of the bars and the cross leves become a 
band-aid to an ill fitting frame. With a custom you can design the bike to 
fit perfect.
I would say if you want cross levers you should stick with a flat or upright 
handlebar. 
 
~mike
 
 
 

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Re: [RBW] Cross levers on 46cm Noodle bars?

2011-07-01 Thread Horace
I have the interrupter levers on three road bikes, two of them on Nitto
Noodles. I recommend them unconditionally. I probably use them less than 10
percent of the time, but they are simply great to have. There are almost no
drawbacks, except that they may interfere with a handlebar bag.

Horace.

On Fri, Jul 1, 2011 at 8:55 AM, Jay robin...@gmail.com wrote:

 I bought Forrest's Sam Hillborne and am having it built for commuting
 in a mix of interurban roads and city traffic and the occasional tour.
 Coming from a sordid MTB past, I currently commute on an old steel
 mountain bike with slicks. I ordered the Nitto Noodle bars on faith,
 never having actually used drop bars before.
 I'm wondering if it wouldn't be a good idea to go with cross style
 interrupter levers either in addition to or instead of the drop bar
 brake levers for better control in traffic.
 Or is it just a matter of getting used to the drop bar levers?

 Thanks,
 Jay

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[RBW] Re: I caved...totally, epically caved...

2011-07-01 Thread Michael_S
thanks for the report Bill. I'll probably get a Rapha jersey one of these 
days and I was thinking the XL for myself ( 5'11 190).  Thats what I wear 
in Ibex and Woolistic.
The thick pads on shorts bug me as well. I find the Garneau pad is nice as 
well, these days though,  I'm  hiding mine under baggies. 
 
~mike

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[RBW] Re: Cross levers on 46cm Noodle bars?

2011-07-01 Thread William
+1 on the opinion that interrupters are a nice to have complement to drop 
bar levers, but not a substitute for them.  I only have them on one bike, my 
56cm Hillborne with 46cm Noodles :)  on my other bikes, I don't run them 
because they'd get in the way of my handlebar bag.  Because of that, I've 
gotten accustomed to not using them as much.  I don't find myself reaching 
for them.  For sure my Hillborne is the easiest of my bikes to ride while 
drinking coffee, with brakes on the tops.  

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Re: [RBW] Cross levers on 46cm Noodle bars?

2011-07-01 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Fri, 2011-07-01 at 15:57 -0700, Michael_S wrote:
 Not to rile any feathers, but as Patrick said if your bars/top tube
 are the  right length for you then they become an un-necessary bike
 addition. I feel that drop bar bikes should be set up so you can ride
 on the hoods most of the time. The wider stance is better for
 braking,steering and turning.

It's all a matter of personal preference.  There are no god-given rules
about this, and as always YMMV.  My bars are set up so I can ride on the
hoods, on the bar tops, or on the bar ends, and I use all those
positions.  I happen to like having brake levers available at my finger
tips when using the bar tops, and find them no inconvenience.  And let
me assure you, my bars, stem and top tube are the right length.
 
 Buying stock geometry bikes make this a tougher thing to do especially
 if you  have a shorter torso length. Most of the Rivendell bikes have
 longer tope tubes so to get the right seat tube frame size sometimes
 riders end up with 6 or 7 cm stems. When the top tube/stem  is too
 long riders find a more comfortable postion on the top of the bars and
 the cross leves become a band-aid to an ill fitting frame. 

If you believe this is some kind of universal truth, applicable to
everyone who likes these levers, you are dead wrong.

 With a custom you can design the bike to fit perfect.
 I would say if you want cross levers you should stick with a flat or
 upright handlebar. 

And to that, I would say Bull Hockey.




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Re: [RBW] Re: Cross levers on 46cm Noodle bars?

2011-07-01 Thread cyclotourist
I've found I really love interrupters.  They're one of the few actual bike
component improvements in the last decade that really do something useful.
Simple, cheap, lightweight, unobtrusive (mostly).  Great upgrade IMHO.

On Fri, Jul 1, 2011 at 4:23 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 +1 on the opinion that interrupters are a nice to have complement to drop
 bar levers, but not a substitute for them.  I only have them on one bike, my
 56cm Hillborne with 46cm Noodles :)  on my other bikes, I don't run them
 because they'd get in the way of my handlebar bag.  Because of that, I've
 gotten accustomed to not using them as much.  I don't find myself reaching
 for them.  For sure my Hillborne is the easiest of my bikes to ride while
 drinking coffee, with brakes on the tops.

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Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

*...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would
probably benefit more from
improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS

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[RBW] Re: Touch Up Paint Suggestion

2011-07-01 Thread steven
I try to find paint that does not match. I like the scarred look.

On Jul 1, 11:12 am, rlc5925 rlc5...@gmail.com wrote:
 Looking for suggestions for touch up paint in the (white/cream) lug
 area. Thanks

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[RBW] Re: Touch Up Paint Suggestion

2011-07-01 Thread rw1911
I like to use clear paint or nail polish as it provides protection
from corrosion and saves me from the embarrassment of a poor color
match.


On Jul 1, 8:41 pm, steven steven.blond...@gmail.com wrote:
 I try to find paint that does not match. I like the scarred look.

 On Jul 1, 11:12 am, rlc5925 rlc5...@gmail.com wrote:







  Looking for suggestions for touch up paint in the (white/cream) lug
  area. Thanks

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[RBW] Re: wow

2011-07-01 Thread charlie
Yea I get the whole IGH thing but I haven't found the four speed/ soon
to be five ratios limiting. My normal road gear is 66 my headwind
hill climber is a 51 and I will be getting a 22 tooth freewheel for
the flip side giving me a 44.  Any steeper than that and I just get
off and hike a little. I coast downhill and let let my legs rest for
climbing. I climb faster now but my overall times are the same. I just
put out effort in intervals nowwhich is better for me I think. The
whole derailleurless bicycle is kind of weird in a way but I don't
miss not having more or wider gearing. I do appreciate my geared
bicycle when I ride it.however the Simple One is just different
and I see no need to change it.

On Jul 1, 12:02 pm, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote:
 You know what would be awesome: a derailleurless Rivendell frame just like 
 the Simpleone but with 135 rear spacing and some cable stops that make it 
 ready to handle this in 11:

 http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/produ...

 or one of these:

 http://www.fallbrooktech.com/Docs/GearInch_32011.pdf

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[RBW] Are Nitto 185s strong enough for moderate off road use?

2011-07-01 Thread PATRICK MOORE
I may replace the rather too wide and too deep and too long 46 cm
Nitto Noodles on the Fargo with either  Nitto 185s or Salsa Bell Laps.
Will the 185s be strong enough for fast, choppy surfaces? I don't do
dropoffs or anything like that.

I've given up on bars much higher than my saddle, even for the Fargo:
now the Noodles are only about an inch above the saddle instead of 3
above; and I am finding the Noodles a bit wide and long. I'm not sure
that 185s, with their short ramps, are the answer, but OTOH, the long
Cane Creek hoods will make up for some of that. I've decided to bite
the bullet and swap out the 185s on the two Rivs for Grand Bois copies
of Maes Parallels for longer reach and shallower drop -- 115 versus
90, 125 versus 140 -- and to get the statutory horizontal ends while
not sacrificing flat ramps.

I may have a couple of pairs of 185s (one 42 cm and one 44, or
possible 2 X 42) and a 46 cm Noodle for sale -- let me know if y'all
are interested. Also a cherry original model Turbo, used but little
used.

-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW
patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.
(Rilke, Buddha in Glory)

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[RBW] Stem sizing for Albatross and Moustache bars

2011-07-01 Thread rw1911
I currently have Noodles with a 110 Nitto stem which ideally should be
a 100 or maybe even a 90 (tops are great, hoods are just a bit far)

Anyway, I've been thinking about trying either the Albatross or
Moutstache bars.  Can you share your experience in regards to stem
length for these bars relative to what you use for a drop bar like the
Noddle?

I'm thinking I would use a slightly longer stem for the Albatross and
a slightly shorter for the Moustache?

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[RBW] Cross levers on 46cm Noodle bars?

2011-07-01 Thread Peter Pesce
Another vote here in favor. I had them on Noodles on my Sam and really liked 
them. Mine were Tektros and were great IMHO. I find that on dirt or gravel I 
hate riding on the hoods and prefer the flats, the the cross levers are 
perfect. Maybe too many years of mountain biking. I also  use a VO Rackaleut 
to get round bar bag issues.  Though you need to stick to small handlebar bags. 

I've been testing out rando bars recently, a 45(?)cm Nitto at present, and the 
cross levers don't work well with them at all. 

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[RBW] Re: Cross levers on 46cm Noodle bars?

2011-07-01 Thread Leslie
Back when I was a kid riding a 10-speed (before mountain bikes had 
supplanted them as the 'standard' bicycle), they had these funky brakes that 
not only had the levers for the drops, but from out of the inside of the 
hoods was an L-lever, so that you could brake from the flats.   Wasn't the 
greatest functioning thing, but, I used them a lot.  You didn't ride the 
hoods, it was either in the drops or up top.Then I changed over to a 
mountain bike, and hadn't rode a road bike for ages.   

When I first started riding a road bike again, I was a bit caught off guard 
w/ people riding the hoods.   And not having brakes on the flats.   But when 
I found cross-levers, it added back in the old L lever, but in a much more 
functional effective way.

I'm not as flexible as I used to be.   I used to drop into the drops all the 
time, even just zipping around the neighborhood.  Now, on a road ride, I've 
gotten used to the hoods, and will drop to the drops if riding into the 
wind, but otherwise am usually on the hoods, or back on the flats.  When I'm 
not on a road, but on a combination walking/biking trail, needing to 
negotiate around pedestrians or on a mixed surface, I am usually up on the 
flats instead.   Interrupter levers are a very welcome addition in those 
circumstances.

If I was building a strict road bike (like a Roadeo), for club-riding only, 
I might forego them.  Or, if I had a handlebar bag, I can see them getting 
in the way, but as I don't, that's not an issue. I'm not a weight-weenie, 
but, that's about the biggest downside for me to having them (and isn't 
really a problem at all);  if you were spending money to move from an 
Ultegra to a Dura Ace setup to drop a few ounces, then you might not want to 
add them (but, you'd probably not be on a Rivendell then?).   But, we're 
riding Rivendells, hopefully we have a like of practicality.   They offer an 
additional hand-position, that is especially nice on Noodles (I use 48cm 
bars, FWIW).  I find that my most common relaxed cruising position is back 
at the corner of the bars, where I can slip over onto the interrupter levers 
quickly.   

IMHO, FWIW

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[RBW] Re: How to treat large dings that have rusted?

2011-07-01 Thread R Gonet
Jim, can you elaborate on what you mean by enamel?  Thanks.

On Jul 1, 11:23 am, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
 on 7/1/11 7:15 AM, Jeffrey at unclecowb...@gmail.com wrote:

 I have several large abrasions through the paint that have rusted. what do
 you do to treat them? If I just paint/fingernail polish them will that stop
 the rust underneath, or do I need to remove the rust first? If so, how?

 Clean the rust with fine steel wool, then enamel.

 --
 Jim Edgar
 cyclofi...@earthlink.net

 Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
 Current Classics - Cross Bikes
 Singlespeed - Working Bikes

 Gallery updates now appear here -http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com

 Then I sat up, wiped the water out of my eyes, and looked at my bike, and
 just like that I knew it was dead

 -- Robert McCammon, Boy's Life

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[RBW] Re: Cross levers on 46cm Noodle bars?

2011-07-01 Thread R Gonet
I have interrupters on all of my three bikes and I use them 3/4 of the
time because I use the hoods most of the time.  I also use handlebar
bags on all my bikes and the levers aren't really in the way.  I would
go so far as to say that having only the standard levers in the drops
would be awkward and perhaps unsafe for me.

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Re: [RBW] Re: How to treat large dings that have rusted?

2011-07-01 Thread Bill Gibson (III)
I am not Jim, but hobby shops and the fingernail polish section of
drugstores, etc. have many colors, some of which may match. Don't try to
touch up all in one go. Layers, light sanding. Be happy with beausage. We
live in Rivendell, remember. Use a pencil eraser to apply pressure to a
little wad of steel wool and keep the abrasion to a tiny area. Twirl the
abrasive. After touch up, you can even get and apply clear fingernail
polish. Fear not. But leave no rust under paint.

On Fri, Jul 1, 2011 at 8:45 PM, R Gonet richard.go...@earthlink.net wrote:

 Jim, can you elaborate on what you mean by enamel?  Thanks.

 On Jul 1, 11:23 am, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
  on 7/1/11 7:15 AM, Jeffrey at unclecowb...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  I have several large abrasions through the paint that have rusted. what
 do
  you do to treat them? If I just paint/fingernail polish them will that
 stop
  the rust underneath, or do I need to remove the rust first? If so, how?
 
  Clean the rust with fine steel wool, then enamel.
 
  --
  Jim Edgar
  cyclofi...@earthlink.net
 
  Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
  Current Classics - Cross Bikes
  Singlespeed - Working Bikes
 
  Gallery updates now appear here -http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com
 
  Then I sat up, wiped the water out of my eyes, and looked at my bike,
 and
  just like that I knew it was dead
 
  -- Robert McCammon, Boy's Life

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-- 
Bill Gibson
Tempe, Arizona, USA

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[RBW] Re: Stem sizing for Albatross and Moustache bars

2011-07-01 Thread Bill M.
If I needed a 90 cm stem with a Noodle, I would not be able to get a
short enough stem for comfort with a Moustache bar.  With an M there
are no tops, so it's like being on the hoods full time only lower
because the M bars have a little drop to them.  A 60 might work.  My
most successful application of M's was on a bike that was otherwise
too small for me.

With Albatrosses I'd want a 120, maybe longer.

Other opinions are sure to vary.

Bill

On Jul 1, 7:39 pm, rw1911 rw1...@gmail.com wrote:
 I currently have Noodles with a 110 Nitto stem which ideally should be
 a 100 or maybe even a 90 (tops are great, hoods are just a bit far)

 Anyway, I've been thinking about trying either the Albatross or
 Moutstache bars.  Can you share your experience in regards to stem
 length for these bars relative to what you use for a drop bar like the
 Noddle?

 I'm thinking I would use a slightly longer stem for the Albatross and
 a slightly shorter for the Moustache?

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Re: [RBW] Re: I caved...totally, epically caved...

2011-07-01 Thread Ryan Watson
William,
FYI 
I'm exactly your height and weight and wear XL in Rapha Jerseys, L in the 
shorts and baselayers. 
I could wear L jerseys if not for my freakishly wide shoulders. 
The skincare stuff does smell nice, but contains tea tree oil which gives me a 
nasty rash. Glad I read the fine print before slathering it on my chamois!

Ryan






On Jul 1, 2011, at 13:04, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 Report so far.  I ended up getting a grip of stuff.  A brevet jersey, bib 
 shorts, armwarmers, kneewarmers, and their skincare bundle.  The jersey 
 looked great, but it was too small.  I bought a Medium in everything.  I'm 
 5'10 175lbs.  The shorts and kneewarmers fit well, but the jersey and 
 armwarmers were too small.  I've returned them and will exercise the Rapha 
 customer service. They had provided a return label, and the online 
 instructions were really easy to follow.  We'll see how that goes.
 
 No feedback on the skincare stuff, except that I like how it smells.
 
 The bib shorts are really nice.  I've always had several pair of regular 
 shorts.  Bibs are just a lot nicer around the waist.  Those of us with a 
 muffintop boiler appreciate it.  I dread to think what it'll cost me to 
 totally convert, but for now I have two sets of bib shorts (the others are 
 Pearl).  Bib knickers are definitely on my want list.  The shorts are made in 
 Italy for the sweatshop handwringers out there.  A nice bonus was they came 
 with a tiny tub of Rapha chamois cream.  The pad appears to be very high tech 
 according to the attached literature, but dude is it thick.  I've always 
 hated people who call padded cycling shorts 'diapers'.  It's actually a major 
 pet peeve of mine.  That said, this pad is really thick, like...um...well... 
 it's thick.  I'm sure I'll grow accustomed to it, but it is different than 
 anything I've used (mainly Descente and Pearl).  I'll have to do a 200k or 
 300k with these to see if it makes a difference.  On the 35 mile commute to 
 the office, they were great, but overkill on the padding side.  Maybe I 
 should put an unpadded 150g saddle on :)  
 
 The kneewarmers worked great, and have a nice reflective accent that I 
 appreciated.  
 
 That's it for now.  
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[RBW] Re: Stem sizing for Albatross and Moustache bars

2011-07-01 Thread charlie
I have used a 12cm for Albatross bars and a 9cm with a 105 degree rise
for noodles on the same bike with a 58cm top tube. I have mustache
bars with a 10cm dirtdrop but on a bike with a 57 cm top tube. My
Simple One has a 9cm seven shaped nitto stem all the way up to the
mark with  Nitto Rando bars and a 58cm top tube. I purposely mounted
my albatross bars upside down making the grips level with the saddle
but it still put me too upright and the front end felt squirrely so I
went back to noodles. If my memory is correct a 3-4 cm longer is good
for Albatross bars and maybe a 2-3 cm shorter for mustache's.
although you want them way taller so the curve is above saddle height
and the normal grip at least level with the saddle.

On Jul 1, 7:39 pm, rw1911 rw1...@gmail.com wrote:
 I currently have Noodles with a 110 Nitto stem which ideally should be
 a 100 or maybe even a 90 (tops are great, hoods are just a bit far)

 Anyway, I've been thinking about trying either the Albatross or
 Moutstache bars.  Can you share your experience in regards to stem
 length for these bars relative to what you use for a drop bar like the
 Noddle?

 I'm thinking I would use a slightly longer stem for the Albatross and
 a slightly shorter for the Moustache?

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