[RBW] Re: My Non-Riv STP (Seattle to Portland) Pics

[rob markwardt]

Hi All,
  Had a great weekend of riding.  Weather was perfect...70 degrees,
clear skys, and mild tailwinds!  Felt great, no mechanical issues,
lots of fun.  I think I might have seen one orange Hillborne (it was a
pretty orange but I was passing and couldn't be certain) but that was
it as far as Rivendell were concerned.  I rode my 71 Paramount and I
was somewhat of a freak among the masses of modern bikes.  Of course
with ten thousand folks there was a bit of everything...unicycles,
skate boards, tandems, garage junkers, beach cruisers, etc., etc.
Great fun...here's a few pics.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77502424@N00/sets/72157627051138933/

Rob

On Jul 10, 12:31 am, Rob  wrote:
> Hey Frank,
>
> Cool to hear your ten-year-old is doing the ride this year! Impressive.
>
> I bailed on the STP this year. Not enough time to train--my longest ride so
> far this year has been the ~25 miles of the Riv Ride New Year's Day! Ah
> well. Next year!
>
> Have an awesome rest of the ride.
>
> Rob in Seattle

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Re: [RBW] shipping costs

[Eric Norris]

I've always had better luck taking my bikes directly to the UPS shipping 
facility (not the storefront locations) when I ship them.  The last time I 
shipped a bike it was a little over $40, but much less than $160.  The 
storefront locations usually want to charge two to three times the amount I pay 
at the shipping facility.

--Eric
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
www.wheelsnorth.org

On Jul 11, 2011, at 1:22 PM, CCX wrote:

> Hey Rivsters-
> 
> How are you all shipping bikes (conus)?  I just looked up prices on
> UPS and FedEX and they were both in the range of 160 bucks.  Geeze
> where have I been over the years, the last time I shipped a bike it
> cost 40.00 buck.
> 
> jc
> 
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[RBW] Largest tires in a Sam

[MTR]

I'm wondering if Panracer firecross 45c tires will fit in my 2tt
waterford sam hilborne?
Thanks guys

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[RBW] shipping costs

[CCX]

Hey Rivsters-

How are you all shipping bikes (conus)?  I just looked up prices on
UPS and FedEX and they were both in the range of 160 bucks.  Geeze
where have I been over the years, the last time I shipped a bike it
cost 40.00 buck.

jc

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Re: [RBW] Re: Cable Routing Problem w/ Riv's MicroShift FDer on AHH

[Rex Kerr]

Ding ding ding, we have a winner! :-)  #3 was exactly my problem.  I was
thinking of the little nub as being analogous to how the old pinch washers
used to have a little flap that went down next to the cable (hard to
describe).

As for #2... I've never understood why the spring were so darn strong on
front derailleurs.   It still requires more force than some of my older
derailleurs, even when set up correctly due to the very short action arm.

-Rex

 Too bad you didn't reply earlier yesterday. :-)

On Mon, Jul 11, 2011 at 8:32 AM, William  wrote:

> Two things, maybe three things come to mind on why a front derailer is
> really hard to operate.
>
> 1.  The lever arm from cable bolt to pivot is really short.  This helps
> determine how much lever travel imparts how much derailer travel.  These
> lever arms got shorter for brifters.   The shorter this lever arm is, the
> harder it is to actuate
> 2.  The spring itself is really strong.  The stronger the spring, the
> harder to shift up to the bigger ring.  A stronger spring doesn't get you a
> whole lot on the plus side
> 3.  You have the cable running two close to the anchor bolt, or under it?
> From the picture you did post it looks like the cable is kind of going
> straight up at the bolt.  Many derailers of this type have a nub on the
> female side of the anchor bolt assembly.  The intent is for the cable to
> route OVER that nub, not under.  On some older derailers being retrofitted
> with brifters, some mechanics found that running under the nub got you
> better actuation.  Under the nub makes that lever arm shorter and harder to
> actuate.  Over the nub makes that lever arm effectively longer, and easier
> to actuate.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Cable Routing Problem w/ Riv's MicroShift FDer on AHH

[Rex Kerr]

:-)  Too bad it didn't come with instructions and I had to find them with
some googlefu on a broken website that only worked when directly linking to
the PDF files.

The search that worked:   site:microshift.biz filetype:pdf front derailleur



On Mon, Jul 11, 2011 at 8:58 AM, Eric Norris  wrote:

> Reading the instructions? What an interesting idea. I will have to try that
> sometime.
>
> --Eric "Still Can't Remember How to Set the VCR" Norris
> Sent from the iPad 2
>
> On Jul 10, 2011, at 11:55 PM, Rex Kerr  wrote:
>
> Update2:  I'm stupid.
>
> Just had a moment of inspiration...  Looking at the tiny pictures in the
> tech documents on the MicroShift website I suddenly realized that the little
> tab next to the cable binder screw wasn't part of the retention mechanism as
> I initially thought, and that the cable should go over it, rather than
> between it and the bolt.  Sure enough, it's much easier to shift now!
>
> -Rex
> On Jul 10, 2011 3:07 PM, "Rex Kerr" < rexk...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> > Update: Lowered the fder, lower than I'd usually put it, but still
> clearing
> > the top ring, and it doesn't interfere anymore, but it's still darn hard
> to
> > operate. Any ideas why?
> > On Jul 10, 2011 2:30 PM, "Rex Kerr" < 
> rexk...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >> I was working on assembling my new AHH today and ran into a little
> problem
> >> with the front derailleur. I have installed dozens
> >> of front derailleurs before without a problem, even having to do strange
> >> things like pinch cable housing between a kickstand plate and the
> downtube
> >> to use direct pull derailleurs on bikes that weren't designed for them,
> > and
> >> never had this kind of problem.
> >>
> >> Here's a picture of the routing issue:
> >>
> >> http://imgur.com/arxLD
> >>
> >> The cable wants to rest right on the pivot's rivet. Sometimes it snaps
> >> behind the pivot and gets stuck. I've tried raising and lowering
> >> the derailleur, rotating it to change the alignment, monkeying with the
> >> limit screws, everything that would make it work poorly, and even if I
> can
> >> get it not to interfere (much -- the picture is the best I've gotten)
> >> the derailleur takes a significant amount of force to operate, far more
> > than
> >> any other that I've ever used.
> >>
> >> Has anybody else run into this problem? Does anybody else have this
> >> particular derailleur on their AHH that they'd be willing to photograph
> so
> >> that I can see how the cable runs?
> >>
> >> I'd call Riv for advice, but they're closed today, so I might end up
> > having
> >> to call them tomorrow.
> >>
> >> Thanks!
> >> -Rex
>
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[RBW] new AHH, new city: Seattle build advice

[Matthew Snyder]

Hi RBW folks,

I put down a deposit on a new AHH (63cm) and I'm looking for advice on
how to build it up.  I'm relocating to Seattle after years of living
in various places where the biggest hills are highway overpasses.  I'm
looking to build a commuter that can also handle weekend trips,
overnights, "light" touring, centuries... that sort of thing.  I see
there are a few Seattle-area people on this list so I'm hoping to
elicit some insider advice.

The AHH will not be my only bike.  I already have a Bilenky porteur
(650B) that I will use for grocery runs and heavy loads.  I have a
beater for locking up outside late at night.  I want the AHH to be
zippier, more suited to a faster pace and longer rides.  I have a set
of Acorn bags (large saddlebag and boxy rando bag) that I plan to use
as part of the build, and I'm hopeful that those bags will be enough
for daily use, perhaps augmented with a backpack on days when I need
extra capacity.  I'm also considering a rear rack with panniers.  I
have a set of orange Ortliebs which are great at keeping things dry
and for visibility, but lose points in the attractiveness category, I
think.

I have been using albatross-style bars almost exclusively for the past
five or six years.  But I'm thinking it makes sense to go with drops
on the AHH for the increased riding positions.

I'm 6'3", 175lbs, in case that matters.

Questions I have:
- What about the rain?  Obviously fenders are a must, but I'm
interested in other suggestions from people living in rainy climates.
Are there certain components you'd recommend or not recommend?  I'm
also very interested in tire suggestions -- my current favorite tires
are Hetres but it's been awhile since I've bought a quality 700c tire
and I'm not sure what people like for rainy, hilly areas.

- Hills.  I know this might sound silly, but I haven't had to think
much about gearing, living on flat ground.  I always have enough gears
and I can usually get by with just one if need be.  How do I know if I
want a compact double or a triple?

- Saddles: I've been riding mostly Brooks for years, and I carry a
rainproof saddle cover with me.  Should I consider some non-leather
alternatives, though?

Thanks.  This will be my first Riv!

--
Matthew Snyder
Ann Arbor, MI


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Re: [RBW] re: 2 top tubes - Y2TT plus (at the end of it) divisive cultural reference

[dweendaddy]

I think it is another way to distinguish Rivendells from other bikes. 
Kind of like lugs - somewhat functional, somewhat fashionable.
 
For a guy my size, I love the idea of an overbuilt bike.

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[RBW] Re: FS: 60 cm Saluki

[Eric]

Hey Steve, great photos!

Not interested in the bike (too big!) but curious about your front
rack.

I have this difficulty mounting my headlight securly from my Mark's
Rack...the Berthoud rack w/ light mount looks great. I might have to
throw down for one!

Just curious if you know the dimensions, I'd like to know if it'd fit
my small Sackville loafer bag.

Thanks & good luck w/ the sale!

- Eric Wolforth

On Jul 10, 1:42 pm, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> For sale: 60 cm Saluki (cantilever brake) frame, fork, Shimano headset
> and Gilles Berthoud rack with lamp mount.  $1000 plus shipping (actual
> cost).
>
> Frame has custom Fairway Green Metallic paint, and prior to painting the
> fork rack eyelets were relocated to the position appropriate for the
> Berthoud rack.  Also equipped with optional pewter head badge.
>
> Photos of the bike as originally built can be seen 
> here:http://freewebs.com/palincss and later photos of the Saluki can be seen
> here:http://www.flickr.com/photos/97916047@N00/sets/72157617915097787/show/
>
> This bike has never been crashed and is free of damage.  There are a few
> minor paint chips and scuffed spots, as shown 
> here:http://www.flickr.com/photos/97916047@N00/sets/72157627037859801/show/
> including the usual scoring under the bottom bracket caused by the shift
> cables, some scuffing on the outside of the right seat stay, some small
> chips along the back of the right chain stay, and chipped or rubbed
> areas on both chain stays directly behind the bridge.
>
> This bike was most recently equipped with 58mm fluted Honjo fenders
> (clearly illustrated in the slide show) for Hetre tires.  Fenders and
> mounting hardware are also available for an additional $50.

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[RBW] Re: Protovelo back to CdlVs

[Esteban]

I think that would have me too wide too low. I also just think "upside-
down" every time I see it.  I think what will work down the line
(maybe not for a tour) are some porteur bars on a 9cm stem.

On Jul 11, 9:46 pm, Seth Vidal  wrote:
> On Tue, Jul 12, 2011 at 12:30 AM, Esteban  wrote:
> > Got the Protovelo back to where I want it.  Honjos and CdlVs: cheap,
> > trusty, robust enough, supple enough for the commute come September.
> > I'm hoping to commute with only a front rack and bag, keeping things
> > generally unburdened.  Speaking of burdened, getting ready for a
> > tour... the long tt on this bike (61cm) necessitates swept-back bars.
> > We'll see how it does.  Any thoughts on touring with the Albatross
> > bars?
>
> >http://www.flickr.com/photos/25671211@N02/5928279121/in/photostream
>
> Any thoughts to flipping the albatross bars for the tour?
>
> -sv

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[RBW] Re: Freewheel hypothetical

[rob markwardt]

14-18-22-26-30 plus a half-step/granny up front...I'll take a dozen!

On Jul 11, 2:54 pm, William  wrote:
> Some of us still run freewheels on a subset of our bikes.  It's pretty much
> a unanimous opinion that today's production freewheels are not as good as
> they used to be.  I see a lot of message board requests to companies urging
> them to step up and fill the void.  In a perfect world, I wish the old
> cog-board 100% custom freewheel process could be resurrected, but I don't
> know if that is realistic.  
>
> My hypothetical question is:  If a manufacturer stepped up and offered
> exactly one model of multigear freewheel in exactly one size what would you
> want it to be?  Assume you can replace worn out cogs, but that in the first
> pass, there would be no cog options at all.  
>
> For me, it would be for my 126mm rear-ended steel road-ish bikes, to work
> with a compact double, so I'd want to buy a 7-speed 12-28.  If White
> Industries, for example, made this for <$200, but it was the quality of
> their Eno/Dos freewheels, I'd be interested.  
>
> What would you want to buy?

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Re: [RBW] Protovelo back to CdlVs

[Seth Vidal]

On Tue, Jul 12, 2011 at 12:30 AM, Esteban  wrote:
> Got the Protovelo back to where I want it.  Honjos and CdlVs: cheap,
> trusty, robust enough, supple enough for the commute come September.
> I'm hoping to commute with only a front rack and bag, keeping things
> generally unburdened.  Speaking of burdened, getting ready for a
> tour... the long tt on this bike (61cm) necessitates swept-back bars.
> We'll see how it does.  Any thoughts on touring with the Albatross
> bars?
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/25671211@N02/5928279121/in/photostream
>

Any thoughts to flipping the albatross bars for the tour?

-sv

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Re: [RBW] Protovelo back to CdlVs

[James Warren]

Beauty!


On Jul 11, 2011, at 9:30 PM, Esteban wrote:

> Got the Protovelo back to where I want it.  Honjos and CdlVs: cheap,
> trusty, robust enough, supple enough for the commute come September.
> I'm hoping to commute with only a front rack and bag, keeping things
> generally unburdened.  Speaking of burdened, getting ready for a
> tour... the long tt on this bike (61cm) necessitates swept-back bars.
> We'll see how it does.  Any thoughts on touring with the Albatross
> bars?
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/25671211@N02/5928279121/in/photostream
> 
> Esteban
> San Diego, Calif.
> 
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[RBW] Protovelo back to CdlVs

[Esteban]

Got the Protovelo back to where I want it.  Honjos and CdlVs: cheap,
trusty, robust enough, supple enough for the commute come September.
I'm hoping to commute with only a front rack and bag, keeping things
generally unburdened.  Speaking of burdened, getting ready for a
tour... the long tt on this bike (61cm) necessitates swept-back bars.
We'll see how it does.  Any thoughts on touring with the Albatross
bars?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/25671211@N02/5928279121/in/photostream

Esteban
San Diego, Calif.

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[RBW] Re: Freewheel hypothetical

[dougP]

I've fiddled with this question forever & keep coming back to
13-15-17-19-21-24-28 as the basis for all my gearing, regardless of
how many cogs.  When ordering my Atlantis & we got to the gearing
question, I told them the above was fine but since I was getting an
extra gear, gimme something bigger than the 28, the rest is fine.
Honestly, with a MTB triple in front, the above 7 speed covers 98% of
situations encountered, even when loaded touring.

dougP

On Jul 11, 7:00 pm, charlie  wrote:
> H, I have a NOS Regina six speed 13-23 on a bike I never rideI
> think I better save it for the future.
>
> On Jul 11, 5:39 pm, EricP  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Agreed that a nicer version of the Shimanopore would be good.  The 7sp
> > 13-28 works well on my Sam Hillborne.  But not sure I'd spend a lot of
> > money for one.  If the price got much over $100, would probably just
> > build a new wheel for the SH with a Deore rear cassette hub.  The
> > later SunTour design with a Shimano style removal would be nice.  Am
> > not a fan of the 2 or 4 prong SunTour removal tool (aka by me as the
> > self-stripper model).
>
> > Eric Platt
> > St. Paul, MN
>
> > On Jul 11, 7:06 pm, "Scott G."  wrote:
>
> > > I use Benelux derailers, they don't like 28s, so a 13-26 5 speed would be
> > > good.
> > > A 14-26 4 speed would be nice for the older bikes, 4 & 3 speed freewheels
> > > are
> > > very hard to find.
>
> > > A 5 speed 120oln Shimano style cassette hub would be cool, high flange,
> > > great for 'stand off scale' restorations.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Bicycle Lingering

[dougP]

In the spirit of lingering, on the ride mentioned by James Warren (35
miles in 5.5 hours)above, we were well along the way (mid-afternoon,
perhaps?) before discovering that the only instrumentation was Noel's
venerable Huret Multito (?) odometer.  Nary an electronic device
amongst us, ignoring the cameras.  Just some ancient French belt
driven analog device & a couple of sun dials along the route.

When lingering, accuracy AND precision may be sacrificed to indulge
relaxtion.

dougP

On Jul 10, 9:20 pm, James Warren  wrote:
>  
>
>
>
> Good timing with this post! We must have been channeling this article in the 
> 3-speed River and Sea ride today. (See previous postings.) We did 35 miles in 
> about 5.5 hours!
>
>
>
>  -Original Message-
> From: jimD
> Sent: Jul 10, 2011 8:56 PM
> To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> Subject: [RBW] Bicycle Lingering
> As a follow on to 
> micro-tours:http://blog.adventurecycling.org/2011/07/bicycle-lingering.html
>
>
>
> They don't linger much in that big bicycle race across France.
>
> I've never seen them stop for a croissant even.
>
>
>
> -JimD
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
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>
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Cable Routing Problem w/ Riv's MicroShift FDer on AHH

[Philip Williamson]

When I find myself reading the instructions, I know that the item is
either long gone, or completely obselete.
The other thing I do is throw away the instructions and/or box right
before I find out that the obsolete item I still have is now a prized
collectible...

 Philip

 Philip Williamson
www.biketinker.com


On Jul 11, 8:58 am, Eric Norris  wrote:
> Reading the instructions? What an interesting idea. I will have to try that 
> sometime.
>
> --Eric "Still Can't Remember How to Set the VCR" Norris
> Sent from the iPad 2
>
> On Jul 10, 2011, at 11:55 PM, Rex Kerr  wrote:
>
> > Update2:  I'm stupid.
>
> > Just had a moment of inspiration...  Looking at the tiny pictures in the 
> > tech documents on the MicroShift website I suddenly realized that the 
> > little tab next to the cable binder screw wasn't part of the retention 
> > mechanism as I initially thought, and that the cable should go over it, 
> > rather than between it and the bolt.  Sure enough, it's much easier to 
> > shift now!
>
> > -Rex
>
> > On Jul 10, 2011 3:07 PM, "Rex Kerr"  wrote:
> > > Update: Lowered the fder, lower than I'd usually put it, but still 
> > > clearing
> > > the top ring, and it doesn't interfere anymore, but it's still darn hard 
> > > to
> > > operate. Any ideas why?
> > > On Jul 10, 2011 2:30 PM, "Rex Kerr"  wrote:
> > >> I was working on assembling my new AHH today and ran into a little 
> > >> problem
> > >> with the front derailleur. I have installed dozens
> > >> of front derailleurs before without a problem, even having to do strange
> > >> things like pinch cable housing between a kickstand plate and the 
> > >> downtube
> > >> to use direct pull derailleurs on bikes that weren't designed for them,
> > > and
> > >> never had this kind of problem.
>
> > >> Here's a picture of the routing issue:
>
> > >>http://imgur.com/arxLD
>
> > >> The cable wants to rest right on the pivot's rivet. Sometimes it snaps
> > >> behind the pivot and gets stuck. I've tried raising and lowering
> > >> the derailleur, rotating it to change the alignment, monkeying with the
> > >> limit screws, everything that would make it work poorly, and even if I 
> > >> can
> > >> get it not to interfere (much -- the picture is the best I've gotten)
> > >> the derailleur takes a significant amount of force to operate, far more
> > > than
> > >> any other that I've ever used.
>
> > >> Has anybody else run into this problem? Does anybody else have this
> > >> particular derailleur on their AHH that they'd be willing to photograph 
> > >> so
> > >> that I can see how the cable runs?
>
> > >> I'd call Riv for advice, but they're closed today, so I might end up
> > > having
> > >> to call them tomorrow.
>
> > >> Thanks!
> > >> -Rex
> > --
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Re: [RBW] Re: Bicycle Lingering

[jimD]

Well, I do my lingering before the ride by drinking large amounts of coffee, 
then I ride to a destination
like 'half a tuna sandwich from Robert's Market', or (holly molly) more coffee 
at Peet's, then when I get 
home I linger some more. 

Perfect antidote for racy racer syndrome.

-JimE


After years of club type fitness rides this approach has a certain appeal and 
counters my tendency to 'train'.
On Jul 11, 2011, at 6:18 PM, Michael_S wrote:

> Same here... I try lingering, but I just love being on the bike and seeing 
> new things. My compromise is to slow down a little and ride at a pace I could 
> do all day.
> I also think it's harder on my body to start and stop. My wife calls it the 
> "energizer bunny syndrome".
> I do stop to stretch periodicly, and eat/drink. 
>  
> I guess I do my lingering after the ride.
>  
> ~mike
>  
> 
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[RBW] Re: Pittsburgh to Dc

[Kelly Sleeper]

They have walk on bike service along the Katy trail.  Problem is they say only 
2 bikes at a time.  Though I've been on the train with as many as 6 bikes that 
I saw it makes impossible to plan with them.

Kelly

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[RBW] Re: FS: 60 cm Saluki

[Dick Denning]

Steve: 

Sorry for my posting a few minutes ago.  I see your Saluki's been spoken 
for.  

Dick 

 

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[RBW] Re: Freewheel hypothetical

[charlie]

H, I have a NOS Regina six speed 13-23 on a bike I never rideI
think I better save it for the future.

On Jul 11, 5:39 pm, EricP  wrote:
> Agreed that a nicer version of the Shimanopore would be good.  The 7sp
> 13-28 works well on my Sam Hillborne.  But not sure I'd spend a lot of
> money for one.  If the price got much over $100, would probably just
> build a new wheel for the SH with a Deore rear cassette hub.  The
> later SunTour design with a Shimano style removal would be nice.  Am
> not a fan of the 2 or 4 prong SunTour removal tool (aka by me as the
> self-stripper model).
>
> Eric Platt
> St. Paul, MN
>
> On Jul 11, 7:06 pm, "Scott G."  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > I use Benelux derailers, they don't like 28s, so a 13-26 5 speed would be
> > good.
> > A 14-26 4 speed would be nice for the older bikes, 4 & 3 speed freewheels
> > are
> > very hard to find.
>
> > A 5 speed 120oln Shimano style cassette hub would be cool, high flange,
> > great for 'stand off scale' restorations.

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[RBW] Re: FS: 60 cm Saluki

[Dick Denning]

Steve: 

I'd like to buy your 60 Saluki. I have a 59 Bleriot, but I have always 
wanted a Saluki and yours looks like a great one.  
I especially like the front rack with the light attachment.  I like the 
green color as well.  
 
Let me know. 

Also, just curious as to why are you selling it? 
 
Thanks so much, 
 
Dick Denning, 
Celina, Ohio.   

 

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[RBW] Re: Bicycle Lingering

[Michael_S]

Same here... I try lingering, but I just love being on the bike and seeing 
new things. My compromise is to slow down a little and ride at a pace I 
could do all day.
I also think it's harder on my body to start and stop. My wife calls it the 
"energizer bunny syndrome".
I do stop to stretch periodicly, and eat/drink.  
 
I guess I do my lingering after the ride.
 
~mike
 

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[RBW] Re: Bicycle Lingering

[Mike]

Bicycle lingering is so hard for me. I love the idea of it and
frequently head out with the intention of lingering but then I just
sorta keep going and going. My wife is out of town for a few weeks and
so my intention is to do a couple of bike camping trips while she's
gone. I'm at work now and it's slow and I'm thinking about the ride
I'll be doing later this week. I was just telling myself I need to
slow down and give myself permission to just get out of town on day
one, pitch camp early and kick back and enjoy the new George RR Martin
book which will be delivered to my Kindle tomorrow morning. Day two
can be spent exploring some Forest Service roads and heading to the
next campsite and return home the following day. Depending on how I
loop it I could arrange it that the second night's campsite is only 50
miles or so from home. We'll see what happens.

yeah, bicycle lingering is a great idea but it's hard...

I'll add that Pondero seems quite skilled at bicycle lingering.

--mike



On Jul 10, 8:56 pm, jimD  wrote:
> As a follow on to micro-tours:
>
> http://blog.adventurecycling.org/2011/07/bicycle-lingering.html
>
> They don't linger much in that big bicycle race across France.
> I've never seen them stop for a croissant even.
>
> -JimD

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[RBW] Re: Freewheel hypothetical

[EricP]

Agreed that a nicer version of the Shimanopore would be good.  The 7sp
13-28 works well on my Sam Hillborne.  But not sure I'd spend a lot of
money for one.  If the price got much over $100, would probably just
build a new wheel for the SH with a Deore rear cassette hub.  The
later SunTour design with a Shimano style removal would be nice.  Am
not a fan of the 2 or 4 prong SunTour removal tool (aka by me as the
self-stripper model).

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On Jul 11, 7:06 pm, "Scott G."  wrote:
> I use Benelux derailers, they don't like 28s, so a 13-26 5 speed would be
> good.
> A 14-26 4 speed would be nice for the older bikes, 4 & 3 speed freewheels
> are
> very hard to find.
>
> A 5 speed 120oln Shimano style cassette hub would be cool, high flange,
> great for 'stand off scale' restorations.

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[RBW] Re: Freewheel hypothetical

[Mike]

I'm currently using an IRD 13--28 FW paired with VO 50.3 BCD cranks
with 46/30 rings. I seem to have every gear I need. I'd love to have
something more dependable than the IRD. I'd consider buying a White
Industries FW for $100 to $150.

--mike

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Re: [RBW] Freewheel hypothetical

[Scott G.]

I use Benelux derailers, they don't like 28s, so a 13-26 5 speed would be 
good.
A 14-26 4 speed would be nice for the older bikes, 4 & 3 speed freewheels 
are 
very hard to find.

A 5 speed 120oln Shimano style cassette hub would be cool, high flange,
great for 'stand off scale' restorations.

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Re: [RBW] Freewheel hypothetical

[Scott G.]

I use Benelux derailers, they don't like 28s, so a 13-26 5 speed would be 
good.
A 14-26 4 speed would be nice for the older bikes, 4 & 3 speed freewheels 
are 
very hard to find.

A 5 speed 120oln Shimano style cassette hub would be cool, high flange,
great for stand of scale restorations.

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Re: [RBW] Freewheel hypothetical

[Eric Norris]

I could even live with tighter spacing for the small cogs and wider spacing at 
the low end.

--Eric N
Sent from the iPad 2

On Jul 11, 2011, at 4:36 PM, William  wrote:

> So perfect for you would be:  13-15-17-19-21-24-28?  same as the 7-speed 
> shimanopore?  
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Re: [RBW] Freewheel hypothetical

[William]

So perfect for you would be:  13-15-17-19-21-24-28?  same as the 7-speed 
shimanopore?  

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[RBW] WTT: Brand V boxy bar bag

[ejg]

Hey all,
I have a newer style Brand V boxy bar bag that I'd like to trade for a 
"loafer" style bag for a front rack. I suppose it would need to be a "little 
loafer" size to fit on my VO randonneuring rack. The brand V back is pretty 
nice, but just doesn't really work for me and hasn't seen a ton of use. I'd 
be interested in Baggins or Sackville, but nothing tweed. 
Thanks
EJG (Jason)

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Re: [RBW] Freewheel hypothetical

[Eric Norris]

The freewheel-equipped bike I'll be taking to PBP this year has a Velo Orange 
compact double (48/34).  With a 13t cog, that generates a high end of just 97 
inches, but that's fine with me. I usually top out at 48x14, which is only 91 
inches.

--Eric N
Sent from the iPad 2

On Jul 11, 2011, at 3:03 PM, William  wrote:

> Eric, I think you still run 52/42 on your doubles, right?  I run a 48-34, so 
> my 48/12 is the same gear as your 52/13.  
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Re: [RBW] Freewheel hypothetical

[William]

Eric, I think you still run 52/42 on your doubles, right?  I run a 48-34, so 
my 48/12 is the same gear as your 52/13.  

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Re: [RBW] Freewheel hypothetical

[Eric Norris]

I have two freewheel-equipped bikes.  On both, a 7-speed freewheel would be 
perfect. I'd run the same range I have now-- 13-28 (or 29).  In my experience, 
I very seldom use the 13t cog (it's only for very fast downhills, when I'm 
usually coasting anyway), so a 12t would get used even less. Starting at 13t 
gives me one more choice in the range between high and low gears.

--Eric N
Sent from the iPad 2

On Jul 11, 2011, at 2:54 PM, William  wrote:

> Some of us still run freewheels on a subset of our bikes.  It's pretty much a 
> unanimous opinion that today's production freewheels are not as good as they 
> used to be.  I see a lot of message board requests to companies urging them 
> to step up and fill the void.  In a perfect world, I wish the old cog-board 
> 100% custom freewheel process could be resurrected, but I don't know if that 
> is realistic.  
> 
> My hypothetical question is:  If a manufacturer stepped up and offered 
> exactly one model of multigear freewheel in exactly one size what would you 
> want it to be?  Assume you can replace worn out cogs, but that in the first 
> pass, there would be no cog options at all.  
> 
> For me, it would be for my 126mm rear-ended steel road-ish bikes, to work 
> with a compact double, so I'd want to buy a 7-speed 12-28.  If White 
> Industries, for example, made this for <$200, but it was the quality of their 
> Eno/Dos freewheels, I'd be interested.  
> 
> What would you want to buy?
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[RBW] Freewheel hypothetical

[William]

Some of us still run freewheels on a subset of our bikes.  It's pretty much 
a unanimous opinion that today's production freewheels are not as good as 
they used to be.  I see a lot of message board requests to companies urging 
them to step up and fill the void.  In a perfect world, I wish the old 
cog-board 100% custom freewheel process could be resurrected, but I don't 
know if that is realistic.  

My hypothetical question is:  If a manufacturer stepped up and offered 
exactly one model of multigear freewheel in exactly one size what would you 
want it to be?  Assume you can replace worn out cogs, but that in the first 
pass, there would be no cog options at all.  

For me, it would be for my 126mm rear-ended steel road-ish bikes, to work 
with a compact double, so I'd want to buy a 7-speed 12-28.  If White 
Industries, for example, made this for <$200, but it was the quality of 
their Eno/Dos freewheels, I'd be interested.  

What would you want to buy?

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[RBW] Re: I'm pretty excited about my new dynamo wheelset

[William]

Yeah, I think you go 2.4W on the front to keep room for the 0.6W taillight.  
I decided that integrating the rear light into the dynamo system was/is 
unnecessary/redundant for me.  I can and during dark brevets do run dual 
battery powered blinkies on the seatstays, another tiny one on the seattube, 
and another tiny one on my helmet.  Add to that the safety triangle and my 
reflective clothing and I'm already lit up like a very very unfashionable 
Christmas tree.  The point of the dynamo was road illumination and maybe 
gadget charging.  Another wire running the length of the bike would get 
mangled the way I end up using it.  Maybe if I had a nice internal wiring 
custom, I'd go that route.  Someday.  

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[RBW] Wholly un-Rivendellian in spirit if not in content.

[PATRICK MOORE]

Content: Rivendell 58 cm, 559-wheeled fixed gear custom commuter, with
Berthoud stainless steel fenders, custom ss rear rack, VO front rack,
old and elegant beyond your puny conception canvas-'n'-leather Lafuma
rear panniers and front bag, SON 20R and Edeluxe, rear fender LED and
rack-mounted blinky, brass bell (with pissant plastic in'ards and
mount), PB frame pump, 2X Iris cages, extra, 18-t cog on flip side of
flop hub.

Spirit: 26 lb even per my new, non-calibrated, $10.49 spring hanging scale.

Cain't wait to weigh my Riv gofast!

Patrick "tongue firmly embedded in cheek" Moore who apparently has
more idle time on his hands than is good for his character.

-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW
patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.
(Rilke, Buddha in Glory)

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[RBW] Re: Pittsburgh to Dc

[Montclair BobbyB]

Kelly:

Great idea; I would love to join, but I'll be touring New England in
October.

BTW last summer (as part of its Performance Improvement Plan) Amtrak
had pledged to provide roll-on/roll-off bicycle service on the Capital
Limited train (between DC and Pittsburgh) by June 2011... I contacted
Amtrak customer service a few weeks ago and asked when they would
begin this service offering, and (not surprisingly) they indicated
they had no knowledge of such a service offering... I cited their PIP
document (which is available online), but the rep pleaded ignorance.

I hope this isn't just more cheap talk from Amtrak... Having this
train service would make traveling the Allegheny Passage and C&O
trails by bicycle much more attractive (by essentially eliminating the
need for a dedicated shuttle).

I'll let you know if I here an update on this.

BB

On Jul 10, 11:05 pm, Kelly Sleeper  wrote:
> Here we go again just reversing it this year and taking some more folks.
> We are going to ride it between sat oct first through sat oct 8th.
>
> This is a pickup ride so to speak, as in we are each responsible for 
> ourselves.
>
> Shuttle cost is down to 105 per rider..will go down more ad we add more 
> people.
>
> Let me know if you would like to join us...right now we have 1 Bombadil 1 
> Atlantis 3 LHTers..
>
> Kelly

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[RBW] Re: Bicycle Lingering

[dougP]

My touring buds & I decided that if our average speed drifts up to a
double digit figure, it's time to stop for coffee.

dougP

On Jul 11, 5:27 am, Pondero  wrote:
> Exactly.  Not all my rides are like this, but several are.  Instead of
> logging my "rides" by miles, I log hours.  If I ride 45 minutes out to
> a pleasant spot, linger for 30 minutes brewing and sipping coffee, and
> ride 45 minutes back, I log 2 hours.  On that day, I can't think of a
> better way to spend my time.  I log it with pride.  I buddy and I have
> a pretty good 3 hour sunrise watching expedition in our quiver.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Cable Routing Problem w/ Riv's MicroShift FDer on AHH

[Eric Norris]

Reading the instructions? What an interesting idea. I will have to try that 
sometime.

--Eric "Still Can't Remember How to Set the VCR" Norris
Sent from the iPad 2

On Jul 10, 2011, at 11:55 PM, Rex Kerr  wrote:

> Update2:  I'm stupid.
> 
> Just had a moment of inspiration...  Looking at the tiny pictures in the tech 
> documents on the MicroShift website I suddenly realized that the little tab 
> next to the cable binder screw wasn't part of the retention mechanism as I 
> initially thought, and that the cable should go over it, rather than between 
> it and the bolt.  Sure enough, it's much easier to shift now!
> 
> -Rex
> 
> On Jul 10, 2011 3:07 PM, "Rex Kerr"  wrote:
> > Update: Lowered the fder, lower than I'd usually put it, but still clearing
> > the top ring, and it doesn't interfere anymore, but it's still darn hard to
> > operate. Any ideas why?
> > On Jul 10, 2011 2:30 PM, "Rex Kerr"  wrote:
> >> I was working on assembling my new AHH today and ran into a little problem
> >> with the front derailleur. I have installed dozens
> >> of front derailleurs before without a problem, even having to do strange
> >> things like pinch cable housing between a kickstand plate and the downtube
> >> to use direct pull derailleurs on bikes that weren't designed for them,
> > and
> >> never had this kind of problem.
> >>
> >> Here's a picture of the routing issue:
> >>
> >> http://imgur.com/arxLD
> >>
> >> The cable wants to rest right on the pivot's rivet. Sometimes it snaps
> >> behind the pivot and gets stuck. I've tried raising and lowering
> >> the derailleur, rotating it to change the alignment, monkeying with the
> >> limit screws, everything that would make it work poorly, and even if I can
> >> get it not to interfere (much -- the picture is the best I've gotten)
> >> the derailleur takes a significant amount of force to operate, far more
> > than
> >> any other that I've ever used.
> >>
> >> Has anybody else run into this problem? Does anybody else have this
> >> particular derailleur on their AHH that they'd be willing to photograph so
> >> that I can see how the cable runs?
> >>
> >> I'd call Riv for advice, but they're closed today, so I might end up
> > having
> >> to call them tomorrow.
> >>
> >> Thanks!
> >> -Rex
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Re: [RBW] re: 2 top tubes - Y2TT plus (at the end of it) divisive cultural reference

[Joe Bernard]

I'm not a fan of the look (yet), but it's not an issue in my size, anyway.

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[RBW] Re: Cable Routing Problem w/ Riv's MicroShift FDer on AHH

[Rex Kerr]

Update2:  I'm stupid.

Just had a moment of inspiration...  Looking at the tiny pictures in the
tech documents on the MicroShift website I suddenly realized that the little
tab next to the cable binder screw wasn't part of the retention mechanism as
I initially thought, and that the cable should go over it, rather than
between it and the bolt.  Sure enough, it's much easier to shift now!

-Rex
On Jul 10, 2011 3:07 PM, "Rex Kerr"  wrote:
> Update: Lowered the fder, lower than I'd usually put it, but still
clearing
> the top ring, and it doesn't interfere anymore, but it's still darn hard
to
> operate. Any ideas why?
> On Jul 10, 2011 2:30 PM, "Rex Kerr"  wrote:
>> I was working on assembling my new AHH today and ran into a little
problem
>> with the front derailleur. I have installed dozens
>> of front derailleurs before without a problem, even having to do strange
>> things like pinch cable housing between a kickstand plate and the
downtube
>> to use direct pull derailleurs on bikes that weren't designed for them,
> and
>> never had this kind of problem.
>>
>> Here's a picture of the routing issue:
>>
>> http://imgur.com/arxLD
>>
>> The cable wants to rest right on the pivot's rivet. Sometimes it snaps
>> behind the pivot and gets stuck. I've tried raising and lowering
>> the derailleur, rotating it to change the alignment, monkeying with the
>> limit screws, everything that would make it work poorly, and even if I
can
>> get it not to interfere (much -- the picture is the best I've gotten)
>> the derailleur takes a significant amount of force to operate, far more
> than
>> any other that I've ever used.
>>
>> Has anybody else run into this problem? Does anybody else have this
>> particular derailleur on their AHH that they'd be willing to photograph
so
>> that I can see how the cable runs?
>>
>> I'd call Riv for advice, but they're closed today, so I might end up
> having
>> to call them tomorrow.
>>
>> Thanks!
>> -Rex

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[RBW] Re: Cable Routing Problem w/ Riv's MicroShift FDer on AHH

[William]

Two things, maybe three things come to mind on why a front derailer is 
really hard to operate.  

1.  The lever arm from cable bolt to pivot is really short.  This helps 
determine how much lever travel imparts how much derailer travel.  These 
lever arms got shorter for brifters.   The shorter this lever arm is, the 
harder it is to actuate
2.  The spring itself is really strong.  The stronger the spring, the harder 
to shift up to the bigger ring.  A stronger spring doesn't get you a whole 
lot on the plus side
3.  You have the cable running two close to the anchor bolt, or under it?  
>From the picture you did post it looks like the cable is kind of going 
straight up at the bolt.  Many derailers of this type have a nub on the 
female side of the anchor bolt assembly.  The intent is for the cable to 
route OVER that nub, not under.  On some older derailers being retrofitted 
with brifters, some mechanics found that running under the nub got you 
better actuation.  Under the nub makes that lever arm shorter and harder to 
actuate.  Over the nub makes that lever arm effectively longer, and easier 
to actuate.  

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Re: [RBW] WTB: 59cm Bleriot

[John Blish]

Hi Jimmy,

Thanks for your response.

I am the third owner of this Protovelo frame.  A guy in Ft. Collins and then
a guy in DesMoines and then me.

I had always assumed it was Maxway (I have a Kogswell and a Surly) but I
have never had confirmation of that.

It is definitely a 59.

Headset has no brand name on it.

I had intended to sell the Protovelo as soon as I can get the fenders
finished and take some photos.  That seems to be taking a long time, partly
because it is so hot in my workshop area (garage) and partly because I am
also focusing now on selling a 59 Rivendell Romulus and a 59 Novara Strada.

This bike has:

a Nitto dirt drop stem (effectively raises the bars)

Nitto Randonneur bars

Shimano 105 brifters, triple crank, 9-speed cassette, derailleurs and Flite
Deck SC6500 computer (includes calculated cadence which needs no separate
cadence pickup)

Deore hubs

Velocity synergy rims (32 hole front and 36 hole rear)

and Silver caliper brakes.

The fenders are Giles Berthoud stainless made for 659B tire circumference.

The tires are new Panaracer Col de la Vie 650B x 38.

I expect to include the honey Brooks B17 Special and the MKS touring
pedals.  It comes with everything you need to be ready to ride even
including the 2 Bontrager bottle cages shown in the pictures.

Because I have no use for the other parts I am reluctant to sell the frame /
fork until I have tried to sell the whole bike.  I could get some money for
the Brooks and the bars and the tires, etc. but much easier for me to try to
sell the whole bike, which is also the way I bought it.

$1150 as is.

You can have it for slightly less if you pick it up since I would not have
to pack it.  Let's say $1100.  You can have it at that price if I drop it
off at a shop and have them pack it.  I am willing to drive a bit to deliver
it, especially if the drive involves heading toward Chicago from
Minneapolis.

I expect to ask more than that when I put it up for sale generally after I
spend time cleaning it further and photographing it.

If you need more pictures or have any questions, please let me know.  Thanks


John



On Mon, Jul 11, 2011 at 8:50 AM, jimmy johnsen  wrote:

> John.
>
> Thanks for the reply. Could you tell me more about the Protovelo? Who made
> it. Was it Maxway in Taiwan? Is it definetly a 59cm Bleriot size,geometry
> etc.? What would you want for the frame and fork and headset,brakes. It's to
> bad I have the rest of the parts cause that is a nice build. Is that a Chris
> King headset?
>
> Thanks Jimmy
>
>  --
> *From:* John Blish 
> *To:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> *Sent:* Mon, July 11, 2011 8:34:09 AM
> *Subject:* Re: [RBW] WTB: 59cm Bleriot
>
> Hi Hobie,
>
> I intend to sell my 59 Bleriot Protovelo as a complete bike.
>
> See  it at:
>
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/jblish/59BleriotProtovelo?authkey=Gv1sRgCIbyyJq1qbTspQE#
>
> Fenders have not been completely installed.
>
> I would like to try to sell the whole thing before I would sell frame /
> fork but if your price is right I could do it your way.
>
> John
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 11, 2011 at 5:24 AM, hobie  wrote:
>
>> Hello members.
>>
>>  I'm curently in the market for a 59cm Bleriot frame,fork. If anyone has
>> been thinking about selling theirs please contact me.
>>
>> Enjoy the summer riding.
>>
>> Hobie
>>
>> --
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>>
>
>
>
> --
> John Blish
> Minneapolis MN USA
>
>
>
> --
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-- 
John Blish
Minneapolis MN USA

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Re: [RBW] WTB: 59cm Bleriot

[jimmy johnsen]

John.

Thanks for the reply. Could you tell me more about the Protovelo? Who made it. 
Was it Maxway in Taiwan? Is it definetly a 59cm Bleriot size,geometry 
etc.? What 
would you want for the frame and fork and headset,brakes. It's to bad I have 
the 
rest of the parts cause that is a nice build. Is that a Chris King headset?

Thanks Jimmy





From: John Blish 
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Mon, July 11, 2011 8:34:09 AM
Subject: Re: [RBW] WTB: 59cm Bleriot

Hi Hobie,

I intend to sell my 59 Bleriot Protovelo as a complete bike.

See  it at:

https://picasaweb.google.com/jblish/59BleriotProtovelo?authkey=Gv1sRgCIbyyJq1qbTspQE#


Fenders have not been completely installed. 

I would like to try to sell the whole thing before I would sell frame / fork 
but 
if your price is right I could do it your way.

John

  


On Mon, Jul 11, 2011 at 5:24 AM, hobie  wrote:

Hello members.
>
> I'm curently in the market for a 59cm Bleriot frame,fork. If anyone has been 
>thinking about selling theirs please contact me.
>
>Enjoy the summer riding.
>
>Hobie-- 
>You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
>Owners Bunch" group.
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>


-- 
John Blish
Minneapolis MN USA



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Re: [RBW] WTB: 59cm Bleriot

[John Blish]

Hi Hobie,

I intend to sell my 59 Bleriot Protovelo as a complete bike.

See  it at:

https://picasaweb.google.com/jblish/59BleriotProtovelo?authkey=Gv1sRgCIbyyJq1qbTspQE#

Fenders have not been completely installed.

I would like to try to sell the whole thing before I would sell frame / fork
but if your price is right I could do it your way.

John



On Mon, Jul 11, 2011 at 5:24 AM, hobie  wrote:

> Hello members.
>
>  I'm curently in the market for a 59cm Bleriot frame,fork. If anyone has
> been thinking about selling theirs please contact me.
>
> Enjoy the summer riding.
>
> Hobie
>
> --
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-- 
John Blish
Minneapolis MN USA

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[RBW] Re: Bicycle Lingering

[Pondero]

Exactly.  Not all my rides are like this, but several are.  Instead of
logging my "rides" by miles, I log hours.  If I ride 45 minutes out to
a pleasant spot, linger for 30 minutes brewing and sipping coffee, and
ride 45 minutes back, I log 2 hours.  On that day, I can't think of a
better way to spend my time.  I log it with pride.  I buddy and I have
a pretty good 3 hour sunrise watching expedition in our quiver.

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[RBW] WTB: 59cm Bleriot

[hobie]

Hello members.
 
 I'm curently in the market for a 59cm Bleriot frame,fork. If anyone has 
been thinking about selling theirs please contact me.
 
Enjoy the summer riding.
 
Hobie

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[RBW] Re: Cable Routing Problem w/ Riv's MicroShift FDer on AHH

[Michael Glaser]

Rex,

I don't have that issue on my Hilsen, but on another bike (with a SRAM front 
derailleur) the FD cable touches the pivot -- same as yours.  I slipped a 
short length of plastic tubing over the cable so that it would "roll" over 
the derailleur pivot without too much interference.  That works surprisingly 
well, and I don't have any running problems.

Michael Glaser

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