Re: [RBW] Nitto Campee Front rack installation?

[Mike Schiller]

Hugh... the rack is sitting in storage, When I get the new Bantam and build 
it I'll mount it on the Matthews.

I sold the Butler a year ago.  It was a little small for me and would only 
fit a 33mm tire.

~mike


On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 7:40:19 PM UTC-8, hsmitham wrote:
>
> Thanks Chris & Mike. I saw the short stays but wanted to see how they 
> attached. Too bad there isn't an attachment @ the crown. Chris I have mid 
> fork braze on's just wanted to see an example before pulling the trigger.
>
> Mike, you still have the Butler? And if not which bike has the Campee rack 
> now?
>
> ~Hugh
>
> “Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep 
> moving.” ― Albert Einstein
>
> http://velocipedemusings.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 5:52 PM, Christopher Chen 
> 
> > wrote:
>
>> no mid-fork brazeons?
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/99743766@N00/9406235046/
>>
>> 700C homer but you get the idea
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 4:58 PM, hsmitham 
>> > wrote:
>>
>>> Hello Folks,
>>>
>>> Has anyone mounted a campee front rack with canti brakes? Unlike the 
>>> Nitto small front rack the campee does'nt appear to have any attachment 
>>> point to the fork crown...has anyone (Tom Allingham ) mounted this rack on 
>>> an Atlantis or bike with canti's? . Pictures would be helpful. Your 
>>> thoughts are appreciated
>>> ~Hugh
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> "I want the kind of six pack you can't drink." -- Micah 
>>
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[RBW] PSA - Ram on SFCL

[Tonester]

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/4320705601.html

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[RBW] Re: First Grand Bois Flat :-(

[Adam Hansen]

I flatted 3 times in my first two rides on the Hetres and then 600 mi of 
trouble free riding. I do live in the goathead capitol of the 
world-northern AZ. 98% of all my flats are from thorns, the other 2% are 
from bits of steel belted car tires.

Adam
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: What do Rivendell Riders use for tandems?

[charlie.fowler]

My sister and I ride a 1976 Motobecane tandem we got a few years ago.  
Has bar end shifters, a TA triple and a frozen captain's seat post. Lucky seat 
height is right. 

It's pretty Granted out. Shellaced bar tape and twine, a Hobo bag hanging on 
stoker bar and a little joe bag flipped backwards on front bar and a burrito 
wrap behind the stoker.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/lgiobrtn7n7moqu/IMG_1258.JPG

 Charlie fowler, who rides a 57cm romulus
Hamilton ohio

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Re: [RBW] Re: First Grand Bois Flat :-(

[Toshi Takeuchi]

Yeah, I'm full of hot air and do plenty of "letting out" :).

Toshi


On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 6:52 PM, Jim Bronson  wrote:
> I'm not sure my wife would agree that "when in doubt we should let air out"
> but anyway...
>
> On Feb 5, 2014 11:26 AM, "blueride2"  wrote:
>>
>> No flats in maybe 500 miles on the Hetres. I did have a flat yesterday on
>> the GB Cypres tires. I have about 1100 miles on the Cypres and have had 2-3
>> flats. It was no fun changing a flat in 35 degree weather, but this is the
>> price we pay.
>>
>> I have a bad habit of overinflating my tires which increases the
>> likelihood of a flat. "When in doubt, let air out!"
>>
>> Richard
>>
>> On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 10:45:30 PM UTC-5, Mike Schiller wrote:
>>>
>>> I'm almost reluctant to say, bad karma and all no flats in about 1200
>>> miles on mine including some pretty rough dirt.
>>>
>>> ~mike
>>> Carlsbad Ca.
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Yes, another winter For Sale post: Carradice, Carradice-esque, Exustar touring shoes, Ibex wool bike shorts, frame pump.

[Shawn Granton]

UPDATE: The two cheaper saddlebags plus pump have been claimed. That leaves 
the Carradice, bike shorts, and shoes. I'll knock $10 off the total if you 
get two items, $15 if you get all three that remain.
-Shawn

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Re: [RBW] Nitto Campee Front rack installation?

[Hugh Smitham]

Tom thanks for the info and pictures.

Tim that blog was really helpful I had mid fork braze on's added to my
Atlantis actually straight through inserts...so I'll pick up a rack and
either need the extra struts or the double posts. First I'll see what comes
with the rack?

This is where I was planning on picking up the campee rack,

http://www.alexscycle.com/campee-1/camping-carrier/nitto-front-camping-carrier-for-randonneur.html?currency=USD

Thanks for the help.

~Hugh

"Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep
moving." -- Albert Einstein

http://velocipedemusings.blogspot.com/




On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 7:40 PM, Hugh Smitham  wrote:

> Thanks Chris & Mike. I saw the short stays but wanted to see how they
> attached. Too bad there isn't an attachment @ the crown. Chris I have mid
> fork braze on's just wanted to see an example before pulling the trigger.
>
> Mike, you still have the Butler? And if not which bike has the Campee rack
> now?
>
> ~Hugh
>
> "Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep
> moving." -- Albert Einstein
>
> http://velocipedemusings.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 5:52 PM, Christopher Chen  wrote:
>
>> no mid-fork brazeons?
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/99743766@N00/9406235046/
>>
>> 700C homer but you get the idea
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 4:58 PM, hsmitham  wrote:
>>
>>> Hello Folks,
>>>
>>> Has anyone mounted a campee front rack with canti brakes? Unlike the
>>> Nitto small front rack the campee does'nt appear to have any attachment
>>> point to the fork crown...has anyone (Tom Allingham ) mounted this rack on
>>> an Atlantis or bike with canti's? . Pictures would be helpful. Your
>>> thoughts are appreciated
>>> ~Hugh
>>>
>>> --
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>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> "I want the kind of six pack you can't drink." -- Micah
>>
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>
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Re: [RBW] Nitto Campee Front rack installation?

[Hugh Smitham]

Thanks Chris & Mike. I saw the short stays but wanted to see how they
attached. Too bad there isn't an attachment @ the crown. Chris I have mid
fork braze on's just wanted to see an example before pulling the trigger.

Mike, you still have the Butler? And if not which bike has the Campee rack
now?

~Hugh

"Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep
moving." -- Albert Einstein

http://velocipedemusings.blogspot.com/




On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 5:52 PM, Christopher Chen  wrote:

> no mid-fork brazeons?
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/99743766@N00/9406235046/
>
> 700C homer but you get the idea
>
>
> On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 4:58 PM, hsmitham  wrote:
>
>> Hello Folks,
>>
>> Has anyone mounted a campee front rack with canti brakes? Unlike the
>> Nitto small front rack the campee does'nt appear to have any attachment
>> point to the fork crown...has anyone (Tom Allingham ) mounted this rack on
>> an Atlantis or bike with canti's? . Pictures would be helpful. Your
>> thoughts are appreciated
>> ~Hugh
>>
>> --
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>>
>
>
>
> --
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>
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[RBW] Re: Down tube friction shfiters and 9-cog cassettes

[Reid]

Thanks for all the input everyone. What a great group. I'm gonna go with 
the DT friction shifters.
 
Jim -- I'll be using some old fashioned, very simple, friction-only, "never 
heard of indexing" shifters that I already have, not the Riv Silver 
shifters. Your info is good to know for any future projects. Thanks!
 
Reid
 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Wheelbuilding advice: spoke gauge? symmetrical rim?

[cyclotourist]

Oh, I get it. Yeah, my Shimano hubs were listed by model # are straight
forward :-)

Cheers,
David

"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal





On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 7:02 PM, Tim Gavin wrote:

> The http://leonard.io/edd/  database lists many, many Phil hubs with no
> way to tell which one is right without measuring.  Defeats the purpose, at
> least in the specific example of Phil hubs.
>
>
> On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 8:47 PM, cyclotourist wrote:
>
>> I used the http://leonard.io/edd/ calc and it was spot on. I thought the
>> database was fine YMMV. I was re-using spokes from an Open Pro to an A23
>> and the minimal difference in length was fine.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> David
>>
>> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 6:24 PM, IanA  wrote:
>>
>>> Most spokes come in even sizes, but generally if the exact length isn't
>>> available 1mm shorter give or take is the way to go.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 2:38:43 PM UTC-7, Tim Gavin wrote:
>>>
 Mike-  That calculator returns the same spoke lengths -- using the
 dimensions given by the database from my first calculator.  The second
 calculator (leonard.io) has a big clunky database that makes it really
 hard to find the correct model hub.

 Obviously, I'll measure my hubs exactly and use those numbers before I
 buy spokes.

 How much wiggle room is there in spoke length?  Can I use a 272mm spoke
 if it calls for 271mm?  Can I use a 272mm spoke if it calls for 273mm?

 Thanks,
 Tim


 On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 3:17 PM, mikel...@juno.com wrote:

> try this calculator and see if you get similiar values. typically the
> rear spokes are about 2mm apart and the front spokes are 1mm longer than
> the nondrive side rear spokes
>
> http://leonard.io/edd/
> 
> Do THIS before eating carbs (every time)
> 1 EASY tip to increase fat-burning, lower blood sugar & decrease fat
> storage
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/52f2aa91a66712a912abfst01duc
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Wheelbuilding advice: spoke gauge? symmetrical rim?

[Tim Gavin]

The http://leonard.io/edd/  database lists many, many Phil hubs with no way
to tell which one is right without measuring.  Defeats the purpose, at
least in the specific example of Phil hubs.


On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 8:47 PM, cyclotourist  wrote:

> I used the http://leonard.io/edd/ calc and it was spot on. I thought the
> database was fine YMMV. I was re-using spokes from an Open Pro to an A23
> and the minimal difference in length was fine.
>
> Cheers,
> David
>
> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 6:24 PM, IanA  wrote:
>
>> Most spokes come in even sizes, but generally if the exact length isn't
>> available 1mm shorter give or take is the way to go.
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 2:38:43 PM UTC-7, Tim Gavin wrote:
>>
>>> Mike-  That calculator returns the same spoke lengths -- using the
>>> dimensions given by the database from my first calculator.  The second
>>> calculator (leonard.io) has a big clunky database that makes it really
>>> hard to find the correct model hub.
>>>
>>> Obviously, I'll measure my hubs exactly and use those numbers before I
>>> buy spokes.
>>>
>>> How much wiggle room is there in spoke length?  Can I use a 272mm spoke
>>> if it calls for 271mm?  Can I use a 272mm spoke if it calls for 273mm?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Tim
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 3:17 PM, mikel...@juno.com wrote:
>>>
 try this calculator and see if you get similiar values. typically the
 rear spokes are about 2mm apart and the front spokes are 1mm longer than
 the nondrive side rear spokes

 http://leonard.io/edd/
 
 Do THIS before eating carbs (every time)
 1 EASY tip to increase fat-burning, lower blood sugar & decrease fat
 storage
 http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/52f2aa91a66712a912abfst01duc

 --
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>>>
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Re: [RBW] Down tube friction shfiters and 9-cog cassettes

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

Hi Jim,

Although the Silver shifter is half-ratchety and half-friction, there is 
something one can do to mitigate the "in between" situation you've 
described - overshift on the ratchet side and then pull back on the 
friction side. Remember that every time one shifts on the friction side, 
the "home position" of the shifter changes as the ratchet/toothed wheel is 
dragged along for the shift. This means that Silver shifters are not like 
index shifters with predefined positions for each indent.



On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 2:55:45 AM UTC-8, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
Cyclery wrote:
>
> I'd stick with 7/8 sp cassettes. Here's why. Riv's Silver shifter isn't a 
> true friction shifter, but a ratchet. That means the shifter has a finite 
> number of stops rather than an infinite number of positions in true 
> friction. If you try to shift to a position between the ratchet clicks, the 
> shifter will be pulled by the derailleur spring to the next click rather 
> than staying between clicks where you put it! So if you shift to where the 
> derailleur moves the chain to the perfect position over the desired cog... 
> As soon as you take your hand off the shifter, the shifter relaxes into the 
> next ratchet click, and the perfect alignment is gone. We've found that 
> these shifters "work" with 9sp cassettes but that there are always a few 
> noisy gears where the ratchet clicks don't allow the derailleur to line up 
> perfectly with the cogs (made worse because 9sp cassettes have ramps for 
> easy shifting at the slightest hint on a movement of the chain). I believe 
> most people who detect this noise simply "trim" the shift until they chain 
> is riding on a different cog that more closely aligns with one of the 
> clicks. In practice, your 9 sp cassette has only 6 or 7 gears that will be 
> tolerably non-noisy. You could ride for years and not notice this, of 
> course, constantly attributing the noise to simply needing to trim the 
> shift, always landing on a cog adjacent to the cog that you really want to 
> be in. But in the repair stand, it's obvious when you try to shift through 
> the range one gear at a time.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Nitto Campee Front rack installation?

[Mike Schiller]

my Campee rack came with those special struts.  On my new camping bike I 
had mid fork braze on's added to be able to use a simple strut.  

~mike


>

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Re: [RBW] Re: First Grand Bois Flat :-(

[Jim Bronson]

I'm not sure my wife would agree that "when in doubt we should let air out"
but anyway...
On Feb 5, 2014 11:26 AM, "blueride2"  wrote:

> No flats in maybe 500 miles on the Hetres. I did have a flat yesterday on
> the GB Cypres tires. I have about 1100 miles on the Cypres and have had 2-3
> flats. It was no fun changing a flat in 35 degree weather, but this is the
> price we pay.
>
> I have a bad habit of overinflating my tires which increases the
> likelihood of a flat. "When in doubt, let air out!"
>
> Richard
>
> On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 10:45:30 PM UTC-5, Mike Schiller wrote:
>
>> I'm almost reluctant to say, bad karma and all no flats in about 1200
>> miles on mine including some pretty rough dirt.
>>
>> ~mike
>> Carlsbad Ca.
>>
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Wheelbuilding advice: spoke gauge? symmetrical rim?

[cyclotourist]

I used the http://leonard.io/edd/ calc and it was spot on. I thought the
database was fine YMMV. I was re-using spokes from an Open Pro to an A23
and the minimal difference in length was fine.

Cheers,
David

"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal





On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 6:24 PM, IanA  wrote:

> Most spokes come in even sizes, but generally if the exact length isn't
> available 1mm shorter give or take is the way to go.
>
>
> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 2:38:43 PM UTC-7, Tim Gavin wrote:
>
>> Mike-  That calculator returns the same spoke lengths -- using the
>> dimensions given by the database from my first calculator.  The second
>> calculator (leonard.io) has a big clunky database that makes it really
>> hard to find the correct model hub.
>>
>> Obviously, I'll measure my hubs exactly and use those numbers before I
>> buy spokes.
>>
>> How much wiggle room is there in spoke length?  Can I use a 272mm spoke
>> if it calls for 271mm?  Can I use a 272mm spoke if it calls for 273mm?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Tim
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 3:17 PM, mikel...@juno.com wrote:
>>
>>> try this calculator and see if you get similiar values. typically the
>>> rear spokes are about 2mm apart and the front spokes are 1mm longer than
>>> the nondrive side rear spokes
>>>
>>> http://leonard.io/edd/
>>> 
>>> Do THIS before eating carbs (every time)
>>> 1 EASY tip to increase fat-burning, lower blood sugar & decrease fat
>>> storage
>>> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/52f2aa91a66712a912abfst01duc
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Nitto Campee Front rack installation?

[Tim Gavin]

This gentleman has pictures at the bottom of this
post.
There's a right-angled strut that goes to the double-threaded bolts Mike
pointed out.  The struts are sold at Ben's
Cycle;
I wonder if the folks at Rivendell could special order a set for you?






On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 8:01 PM, Mike Schiller wrote:

> Hugh,  I have that rack. Here is a photo with it attached to my 1983 Claud
> Butler tourer
>  
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/37347002@N05/4810459579/in/set-721576241242117
> 43
>
> You have to use the double threaded bolts that Nitto sells
>  
> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/rh2.htm
>
> ~mike
>
>
> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 4:58:51 PM UTC-8, hsmitham wrote:
>>
>> Hello Folks,
>>
>> Has anyone mounted a campee front rack with canti brakes? Unlike the
>> Nitto small front rack the campee does'nt appear to have any attachment
>> point to the fork crown...has anyone (Tom Allingham ) mounted this rack on
>> an Atlantis or bike with canti's? . Pictures would be helpful. Your
>> thoughts are appreciated
>> ~Hugh
>>
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RE: [RBW] Nitto Campee Front rack installation?

[Allingham II, Thomas J]

Hugh:

I think there are at least two front racks that Nitto designates “Campée” that 
don’t attach to the fork crown – one has the removable lowriders and mounts to 
the canti bolts, and the other is supposed to mount to mid-fork brazeons.  I 
have the former on my Stumpjumper, here with Paul cantis, which require the 
Paul bolts for rack mounting:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/9785981285/sizes/o/in/set-72157635815847045/
I used to have the latter on my Atlantis, but the Paul Neo-Retros on that bike 
made it impossible to use the brazeons – I had to use P-clamps.  Pic here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815789426/in/set-72157624427413755  
I took it off, partly for that reason (although I really like that rack).

Tom

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of hsmitham
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2014 7:59 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Nitto Campee Front rack installation?

Hello Folks,

Has anyone mounted a campee front rack with canti brakes? Unlike the Nitto 
small front rack the campee does'nt appear to have any attachment point to the 
fork crown...has anyone (Tom Allingham ) mounted this rack on an Atlantis or 
bike with canti's? . Pictures would be helpful. Your thoughts are appreciated
~Hugh
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Re: [RBW] Re: Wheelbuilding advice: spoke gauge? symmetrical rim?

[IanA]

Most spokes come in even sizes, but generally if the exact length isn't 
available 1mm shorter give or take is the way to go.  

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 2:38:43 PM UTC-7, Tim Gavin wrote:
>
> Mike-  That calculator returns the same spoke lengths -- using the 
> dimensions given by the database from my first calculator.  The second 
> calculator (leonard.io) has a big clunky database that makes it really 
> hard to find the correct model hub.  
>
> Obviously, I'll measure my hubs exactly and use those numbers before I buy 
> spokes.
>
> How much wiggle room is there in spoke length?  Can I use a 272mm spoke if 
> it calls for 271mm?  Can I use a 272mm spoke if it calls for 273mm?
>
> Thanks,
> Tim
>
>
> On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 3:17 PM, mikel...@juno.com  <
> mikel...@juno.com > wrote:
>
>> try this calculator and see if you get similiar values. typically the 
>> rear spokes are about 2mm apart and the front spokes are 1mm longer than 
>> the nondrive side rear spokes
>>
>> http://leonard.io/edd/
>> 
>> Do THIS before eating carbs (every time)
>> 1 EASY tip to increase fat-burning, lower blood sugar & decrease fat 
>> storage
>> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/52f2aa91a66712a912abfst01duc
>>
>> --
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com .
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>> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com
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Re: [RBW] Re: Wheelbuilding advice: spoke gauge? symmetrical rim?

[IanA]

The UBI calculator is good to 
use http://www.bikeschool.com/tools/spoke-length-calculator. It requires 
one to enter the data from the manufacturer's specs or by measuring 
oneself.  http://www.velocityusa.com/product/rims/synergy-oc-584 shows ERD 
as 565 both the regular and OC versions.  For the Phil hubs, you might need 
to measure or perhaps you have the relevant info. on hand.

It might be a good idea to double check in case ProWheel Builder have some 
incorrect data (not saying they have - looks like a great resource, but 
measure twice etc.).

Ian A/Canada

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 1:57:45 PM UTC-7, Tim Gavin wrote:
>
> Thanks for the advice, gang.  You've convinced me to get an off-center 
> asymmetrical rim for the rear. 
> I'm still going to use my Phil FW hub because I have it; I don't have a 
> spare high-end cassette hub lying around.  
> I'm going with DT Swiss Champion 2.0/1.8/2.0 butted spokes, 36 per wheel.
>
> Spoke length:  This 
> calculatorreturned a 
> value of 272.2 non-drive side, 271.8 drive side (rear wheel). 
>  272mm spokes should be good for both sides, right?
>
> The calculator returned a value of 272.6 for the front wheel.  Can I use 
> the same 272mm spokes?  Or do I need to go longer, to the 274mm?
>
> Thanks,
> Tim
>
>
> On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 7:45 AM, Leslie  >wrote:
>
>> AASHTA:
>> From http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html :
>>
>> *Double-butted spokes do more than save weight. The thick ends make them 
>> as strong in the highly-stressed areas as straight-gauge spokes of the same 
>> thickness, but the thinner middle sections make the spokes effectively more 
>> elastic, allowing them to stretch (temporarily) more than thicker spokes.*
>>
>> *As a result, when the wheel is subjected to sharp localized stresses, 
>> the most heavily-stressed spokes can elongate enough to shift some of the 
>> stress to adjoining spokes. This is particularly desirable when the 
>> limiting factor is how much stress the rim can withstand without cracking 
>> around the spoke holes.*
>>
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[RBW] Re: another new Nitto rear rack?

[Mike]

Good eye! They all look smart. Nixing the tombstone makes sense given so 
many of them will wind up supporting saddlebags. Also gives folks more 
options when mounting baskets.

--mike

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 2:33:21 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Three Cheviut shots on the BLUG.  First is a Medium (55).  Second is a 
> Large (60).  Both the Medium and Large have a rear rack that looks a lot 
> like an R-14, but there is no tombstone.  It's just a flat platform.  That 
> might be better for some saddlebag support configurations.  It might be 
> worse if you want to run a trunksack.  Interesting.  
>

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[RBW] Re: Nitto Campee Front rack installation?

[Mike Schiller]

Hugh,  I have that rack. Here is a photo with it attached to my 1983 Claud 
Butler tourer 
 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37347002@N05/4810459579/in/set-721576241242117
43

You have to use the double threaded bolts that Nitto sells 
 
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/rh2.htm

~mike


On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 4:58:51 PM UTC-8, hsmitham wrote:
>
> Hello Folks,
>
> Has anyone mounted a campee front rack with canti brakes? Unlike the Nitto 
> small front rack the campee does'nt appear to have any attachment point to 
> the fork crown...has anyone (Tom Allingham ) mounted this rack on an 
> Atlantis or bike with canti's? . Pictures would be helpful. Your thoughts 
> are appreciated
> ~Hugh
>

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Re: [RBW] Nitto Campee Front rack installation?

[Christopher Chen]

no mid-fork brazeons?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/99743766@N00/9406235046/

700C homer but you get the idea


On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 4:58 PM, hsmitham  wrote:

> Hello Folks,
>
> Has anyone mounted a campee front rack with canti brakes? Unlike the Nitto
> small front rack the campee does'nt appear to have any attachment point to
> the fork crown...has anyone (Tom Allingham ) mounted this rack on an
> Atlantis or bike with canti's? . Pictures would be helpful. Your thoughts
> are appreciated
> ~Hugh
>
> --
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[RBW] Re: another new Nitto rear rack?

[dougP]

The third photo looks like the new rack with the second set of lower 
pannier bars.  All 3 look pretty clean without the tombstone.  The rear 
brake on the Cheviut is out of the way so no interference problems with 
racks & luggage.  

dougP

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 2:33:21 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Three Cheviut shots on the BLUG.  First is a Medium (55).  Second is a 
> Large (60).  Both the Medium and Large have a rear rack that looks a lot 
> like an R-14, but there is no tombstone.  It's just a flat platform.  That 
> might be better for some saddlebag support configurations.  It might be 
> worse if you want to run a trunksack.  Interesting.  
>

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[RBW] Re: Paint matching

[dougP]

Michael:

This topic comes up once in a while.  I've had good luck at the hobby 
store.  Huge color selection, small bottles and not expensive.  Somewhere 
on cyclofiend's website I think there is some info on paint color matches.  

dougP

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 2:40:04 PM UTC-8, Tom Virgil wrote:
>
> Michael,
>
> I try to get more than one nail polish bottle with hues on either side of 
> what is to be matched.  Mixing them and applying to a test piece off the 
> bike can help get close.  A blow dryer can speed up getting to the final 
> result.  I have found an air brush shoots nail polish pretty well (got the 
> idea from watching the goings on in a nail salon where they use stencils 
> and air brushes for different effects).
>
> Tom
>
> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 2:19:14 PM UTC-8, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>>
>> I have a pretty much new-to-me early Saluki (00011) in a beautiful shade 
>> of grey.  It has fewer than the usual paint chips on the bb shell and chain 
>> stay but I am wanting to touch them up.  I found an imron paint chart on 
>> the Joe Bell web site, made my best guess on the color and went to Bond 
>> Auto which, supposedly, cross matched it and sold me a small can for $12. 
>>  Unfortunately there grey turned out to be an off white!  RBW does not keep 
>> records and advises finding a good nail polish match.  Seems like a stretch 
>> to me.  Has anyone out there found a good way to match paint?
>>
>> BTW, all new bikes should come with touch up paint and a color #.
>>
>> Michael
>>
>

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[RBW] Nitto Campee Front rack installation?

[hsmitham]

Hello Folks,

Has anyone mounted a campee front rack with canti brakes? Unlike the Nitto 
small front rack the campee does'nt appear to have any attachment point to 
the fork crown...has anyone (Tom Allingham ) mounted this rack on an 
Atlantis or bike with canti's? . Pictures would be helpful. Your thoughts 
are appreciated
~Hugh

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Re: [RBW] another new Nitto rear rack?

[Christopher Chen]

I appreciate the looks of the R-14 rack, and I like the idea of the
tombstone, but ever since upping to the big back rack I really can't look
back. I'm super guilty of loading that sucker up with melons and other
heavy things.

cc


On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 4:52 PM, dougP  wrote:

> A removable tombstone would not be difficult.  A couple of short stumps
> that are part of the rack rails to mount to.  A hoop that slips over the
> stumps, and either a set screw or thumb screw to tighten the hoop onto the
> stumps.
>
> dougP
>
>
> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 4:31:06 PM UTC-8, James Warren wrote:
>
>>
>> I hate it when the tombstone gets in the way of the big saddlebag.
>>
>> Wouldn't it be neat if the rack could have a tombstone that's removable,
>> because it is nice to have the tombstone to help stabilize the big loafer.
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Bill Lindsay
>> Sent: Feb 5, 2014 2:33 PM
>> To: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com
>> Subject: [RBW] another new Nitto rear rack?
>>
>> Three Cheviut shots on the BLUG.  First is a Medium (55).  Second is a
>> Large (60).  Both the Medium and Large have a rear rack that looks a lot
>> like an R-14, but there is no tombstone.  It's just a flat platform.  That
>> might be better for some saddlebag support configurations.  It might be
>> worse if you want to run a trunksack.  Interesting.
>>
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Re: [RBW] another new Nitto rear rack?

[dougP]

A removable tombstone would not be difficult.  A couple of short stumps 
that are part of the rack rails to mount to.  A hoop that slips over the 
stumps, and either a set screw or thumb screw to tighten the hoop onto the 
stumps.  

dougP

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 4:31:06 PM UTC-8, James Warren wrote:
>
>
> I hate it when the tombstone gets in the way of the big saddlebag.
>
> Wouldn't it be neat if the rack could have a tombstone that's removable, 
> because it is nice to have the tombstone to help stabilize the big loafer.
>
>
> -Original Message- 
> From: Bill Lindsay 
> Sent: Feb 5, 2014 2:33 PM 
> To: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com  
> Subject: [RBW] another new Nitto rear rack? 
>
> Three Cheviut shots on the BLUG.  First is a Medium (55).  Second is a 
> Large (60).  Both the Medium and Large have a rear rack that looks a lot 
> like an R-14, but there is no tombstone.  It's just a flat platform.  That 
> might be better for some saddlebag support configurations.  It might be 
> worse if you want to run a trunksack.  Interesting.  
>
> -- 
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Re: [RBW] Down tube friction shfiters and 9-cog cassettes

[sameness]

Shimano XT RD-751 
GS
. 

Shifts up to 32T in back with a 46x36x24 up front.

Jeff Hagedorn
San Diego, CA USA

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 4:07:18 PM UTC-8, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> Which "mid range" derailler do you use with an 11-32?  I'm not aware of 
> anything I would call mid range that will work with a 32 and a triple crank.
>
> Michael
>

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[RBW] Re: Don't care for suspension?

[Ron Mc]

nice Grand Prix on this blog post, though it's been fixed  
http://g-tedproductions.blogspot.com/2012/05/box-o-goodness-part-iv.html

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 6:35:01 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> My vertigo gets worse just looking at this. Ugh.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 2:24:01 PM UTC-7, Tom Virgil wrote:
>>
>>
>> 
>>  Were it not for the problem of braking, I would take the outer rim off 
>> and put baby shoes on the springs.
>>
>> Tom
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Don't care for suspension?

[Deacon Patrick]

My vertigo gets worse just looking at this. Ugh.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 2:24:01 PM UTC-7, Tom Virgil wrote:
>
>
> 
>  Were it not for the problem of braking, I would take the outer rim off 
> and put baby shoes on the springs.
>
> Tom
>

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[RBW] Re: Don't care for suspension?

[Ron Mc]

I bet that's heavy
and my old Grand Prix is a lot prettier




On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 4:11:52 PM UTC-6, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> I'd respond to this but I'm dumbfounded and speachless!
>
> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 4:24:01 PM UTC-5, Tom Virgil wrote:
>>
>>
>> 
>>  Were it not for the problem of braking, I would take the outer rim off 
>> and put baby shoes on the springs.
>>
>> Tom
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] another new Nitto rear rack?

[James Warren]

I hate it when the tombstone gets in the way of the big saddlebag.Wouldn't it be neat if the rack could have a tombstone that's removable, because it is nice to have the tombstone to help stabilize the big loafer.-Original Message-
From: Bill Lindsay 
Sent: Feb 5, 2014 2:33 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] another new Nitto rear rack?

Three Cheviut shots on the BLUG.  First is a Medium (55).  Second is a Large (60).  Both the Medium and Large have a rear rack that looks a lot like an R-14, but there is no tombstone.  It's just a flat platform.  That might be better for some saddlebag support configurations.  It might be worse if you want to run a trunksack.  Interesting.  



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Re: [RBW] Re: What do Rivendell Riders use for tandems?

[Bill Lindsay]

yeah, I probably could have done that.  Now, if I do what I should now, 
I'll just pony up for a new Ritchey double breakaway and run it 650B.  

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 3:36:00 PM UTC-8, ttoshi wrote:
>
> Hey Bill, You can also use crank shorteners to ride with the kids on 
> the tandem. My short-legged 9 yr old son uses crank shorteners now. 
> My daughter can't use them yet. 
>
> I have a Santana 26" cro-moly tandem. Wonderful bike with thousands of 
> miles with the kids. (I also have a 700c triplet bike that I use with 
> both kids.)  I haven't ridden as much on the tandem/triplet because my 
> kids like to ride on their own bike now... 
>
> Toshi 
>

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Re: [RBW] Down tube friction shfiters and 9-cog cassettes

[Michael Hechmer]

Which "mid range" derailler do you use with an 11-32?  I'm not aware of 
anything I would call mid range that will work with a 32 and a triple crank.

Michael

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 11:32:27 AM UTC-5, sameness wrote:
>
> This has been somewhat of my experience as well, though mostly on hills. 
> I've been too lazy to try out the 8sp cassette I've had sitting around 
> for... a very long time, so I've just gotten used to shifting early or 
> going an extra click and trimming.
>
> Data points: SunTour ratchet bar-cons, Shimano (HG?) 9sp 11-32, Shimano XT 
> medium cage RD.
>
> Jeff Hagedorn
> San Diego, CA USA
>
> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 3:01:54 AM UTC-8, justin...@gmail.comwrote:
>>
>> I've never been able to get friction to work reliably on 9sp in the 
>> situations I need. Heading into hills, starting out, anywhere where the 
>> torque amps up I would get the dreaded ghost shift and CH CHUNK! I would 
>> stick with 8sp, personally. 
>>
>> -J
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: What do Rivendell Riders use for tandems?

[Toshi Takeuchi]

Hey Bill, You can also use crank shorteners to ride with the kids on
the tandem. My short-legged 9 yr old son uses crank shorteners now.
My daughter can't use them yet.

I have a Santana 26" cro-moly tandem. Wonderful bike with thousands of
miles with the kids. (I also have a 700c triplet bike that I use with
both kids.)  I haven't ridden as much on the tandem/triplet because my
kids like to ride on their own bike now...

Toshi

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[RBW] Re: Paint matching

[Tom Virgil]

Michael,

I try to get more than one nail polish bottle with hues on either side of 
what is to be matched.  Mixing them and applying to a test piece off the 
bike can help get close.  A blow dryer can speed up getting to the final 
result.  I have found an air brush shoots nail polish pretty well (got the 
idea from watching the goings on in a nail salon where they use stencils 
and air brushes for different effects).

Tom

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 2:19:14 PM UTC-8, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> I have a pretty much new-to-me early Saluki (00011) in a beautiful shade 
> of grey.  It has fewer than the usual paint chips on the bb shell and chain 
> stay but I am wanting to touch them up.  I found an imron paint chart on 
> the Joe Bell web site, made my best guess on the color and went to Bond 
> Auto which, supposedly, cross matched it and sold me a small can for $12. 
>  Unfortunately there grey turned out to be an off white!  RBW does not keep 
> records and advises finding a good nail polish match.  Seems like a stretch 
> to me.  Has anyone out there found a good way to match paint?
>
> BTW, all new bikes should come with touch up paint and a color #.
>
> Michael
>

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[RBW] another new Nitto rear rack?

[Bill Lindsay]

Three Cheviut shots on the BLUG.  First is a Medium (55).  Second is a 
Large (60).  Both the Medium and Large have a rear rack that looks a lot 
like an R-14, but there is no tombstone.  It's just a flat platform.  That 
might be better for some saddlebag support configurations.  It might be 
worse if you want to run a trunksack.  Interesting.  

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[RBW] Paint matching

[Michael Hechmer]

I have a pretty much new-to-me early Saluki (00011) in a beautiful shade of 
grey.  It has fewer than the usual paint chips on the bb shell and chain 
stay but I am wanting to touch them up.  I found an imron paint chart on 
the Joe Bell web site, made my best guess on the color and went to Bond 
Auto which, supposedly, cross matched it and sold me a small can for $12. 
 Unfortunately there grey turned out to be an off white!  RBW does not keep 
records and advises finding a good nail polish match.  Seems like a stretch 
to me.  Has anyone out there found a good way to match paint?

BTW, all new bikes should come with touch up paint and a color #.

Michael

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Re: [RBW] Re: "Science" is working against me

[Curtis McKenzie]

Oh Tom!  My relative mass would be rather cumbersome.  Maybe some body
butter or the like would help.


On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 2:12 PM, Tom Virgil  wrote:

>
> 
> Curtis,
>
> That is a massive assertion.
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 1:46:43 PM UTC-8, Curtis wrote:
>>
>> I use a beard and travel at 0.99C.
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 1:36 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:
>>
>>> The beard helps me with that same issue.
>>>
>>> With abandon,
>>> Patrick
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 2:30:19 PM UTC-7, Anton Tutter wrote:

 I look more attractive when I'm riding faster because it's harder to
 see all my facial defects.

 Anton

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>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: "Science" is working against me

[Deacon Patrick]

Be sure to turn on your headlamp!

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 2:46:43 PM UTC-7, Curtis wrote:
>
> I use a beard and travel at 0.99C.
>
>
> On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 1:36 PM, Deacon Patrick 
> > wrote:
>
>> The beard helps me with that same issue.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 2:30:19 PM UTC-7, Anton Tutter wrote:
>>>
>>> I look more attractive when I'm riding faster because it's harder to see 
>>> all my facial defects.
>>>
>>> Anton
>>>
>>>  -- 
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>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: "Science" is working against me

[Tom Virgil]

Curtis,

That is a massive assertion.

Tom



On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 1:46:43 PM UTC-8, Curtis wrote:
>
> I use a beard and travel at 0.99C.
>
>
> On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 1:36 PM, Deacon Patrick 
> > wrote:
>
>> The beard helps me with that same issue.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 2:30:19 PM UTC-7, Anton Tutter wrote:
>>>
>>> I look more attractive when I'm riding faster because it's harder to see 
>>> all my facial defects.
>>>
>>> Anton
>>>
>>>  -- 
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>
>

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[RBW] Re: Don't care for suspension?

[Michael Hechmer]

I'd respond to this but I'm dumbfounded and speachless!

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 4:24:01 PM UTC-5, Tom Virgil wrote:
>
>
> 
>  Were it not for the problem of braking, I would take the outer rim off 
> and put baby shoes on the springs.
>
> Tom
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Wheelbuilding advice: spoke gauge? symmetrical rim?

[mikel66...@juno.com]

yes, you can use spokes if its off by a mm or 2. 

i try to keep a differential of 2mm between rear spokes rounding down for the 
right side as to pull the rim over for dish

How to Sleep Like a Rock
Obey this one natural trick to fall asleep and stay asleep all night.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/52f2b1f47e82331f46087st04duc

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Re: [RBW] Re: "Science" is working against me

[Curtis McKenzie]

I use a beard and travel at 0.99C.


On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 1:36 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> The beard helps me with that same issue.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
>
> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 2:30:19 PM UTC-7, Anton Tutter wrote:
>>
>> I look more attractive when I'm riding faster because it's harder to see
>> all my facial defects.
>>
>> Anton
>>
>>  --
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Re: [RBW] Re: Wheelbuilding advice: spoke gauge? symmetrical rim?

[Tim Gavin]

Mike-  That calculator returns the same spoke lengths -- using the
dimensions given by the database from my first calculator.  The second
calculator (leonard.io) has a big clunky database that makes it really hard
to find the correct model hub.

Obviously, I'll measure my hubs exactly and use those numbers before I buy
spokes.

How much wiggle room is there in spoke length?  Can I use a 272mm spoke if
it calls for 271mm?  Can I use a 272mm spoke if it calls for 273mm?

Thanks,
Tim


On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 3:17 PM, mikel66...@juno.com wrote:

> try this calculator and see if you get similiar values. typically the rear
> spokes are about 2mm apart and the front spokes are 1mm longer than the
> nondrive side rear spokes
>
> http://leonard.io/edd/
> 
> Do THIS before eating carbs (every time)
> 1 EASY tip to increase fat-burning, lower blood sugar & decrease fat
> storage
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/52f2aa91a66712a912abfst01duc
>
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[RBW] Re: "Science" is working against me

[Deacon Patrick]

The beard helps me with that same issue.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 2:30:19 PM UTC-7, Anton Tutter wrote:
>
> I look more attractive when I'm riding faster because it's harder to see 
> all my facial defects.
>
> Anton
>
>

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[RBW] Re: "Science" is working against me

[Anton Tutter]

I look more attractive when I'm riding faster because it's harder to see 
all my facial defects.

Anton

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[RBW] Don't care for suspension?

[Tom Virgil]

 Were it not for the problem of braking, I would take the outer rim off and 
put baby shoes on the springs.

Tom

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Re: [RBW] Re: Wheelbuilding advice: spoke gauge? symmetrical rim?

[mikel66...@juno.com]

try this calculator and see if you get similiar values. typically the rear 
spokes are about 2mm apart and the front spokes are 1mm longer than the 
nondrive side rear spokes

http://leonard.io/edd/

Do THIS before eating carbs (every time)
1 EASY tip to increase fat-burning, lower blood sugar & decrease fat storage
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/52f2aa91a66712a912abfst01duc

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Re: [RBW] Re: Wheelbuilding advice: spoke gauge? symmetrical rim?

[mikel66...@juno.com]

one of the advantages of a shorter right side spoke is that it pulls the rim 
over after lacing and before tension is applied to help facilitate proper dish

since you are going FW and most likely using a 5,6,7 speed this isnt as much an 
issue as 8,9 speeds hubs which have wide freehubs



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Six solid dividend stocks to give your portfolio an income boost.
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[RBW] Yes, another winter For Sale post: Carradice, Carradice-esque, Exustar touring shoes, Ibex wool bike shorts, frame pump.

[Shawn Granton]

Hello! Yep, another one of those for sale posts. I promise you that I will 
post something about riding a bike soon. But for now, it’s a bit of an 
early spring cleaning sale here, and time to purge some stuff.

*All prices include USPS shipping in the United States.* Outside of US, 
contact me for a shipping quote. Feel free to ask me more questions or 
claim an item. *Please email me off list.*

Payment can be made via paypal to urbanadventurelea...@gmail.com

Go here to see photos of all items listed.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/urbanadventureleaguepdx/sets/72157640435796474/

*Carradice Pendle saddlebag.* 30cm wide x 18cm high x 15cm deep, made of 
cotton duck. Full info on this model here: 
http://www.carradice.co.uk/index.php?page_id=product&under=range&product_id=41
I've had this bag for six years, and it looks to be made in the 2000s. 
Shows obvious signs of wear and fading, but everything works and is 
structurally sound. There's small holes on the corner of the flap on the 
small pockets. Haven't had issues with water getting into the bag, but it 
wouldn't hurt to reproof/rewax the bag at some point. *$60*

*Ibex Duo wool/blend bike shorts,* black, size XL. Classic looking wool 
bike shorts. Wore them maybe a half-dozen times, tops. Apparently Ibex 
doesn’t make these anymore, but full info can be found here: 
http://www.rei.com/product/832127/ibex-duo-bike-shorts-mens
*$60*

*Exustar Touring Shoes*, size 10.5 US/44 EUR. Classic looking black leather 
bike shoes, with the ability to work with clipless pedals, if that’s your 
thing. Wore them once and realize they are just too narrow for my wide 
feet. *$40* 

*Topeak Road Master Blaster Frame Pump.* Size Large, 530mm. Your 
traditional-style frame pump. The rubber is a bit chewed up near the head 
of the pump, otherwise functional. *$10*

*Origin 8 Classique Saddlebag.* Measures 14"x8"x6". Very much looks like a 
Carradice Nelson saddlebag, and pretty much the same size as a Nelson 
(non-longflap), but made with lesser quality components/materials. The 
rings on the top flap (where one could put straps through for a rain cape 
or the like) are plastic. 80/20 synthetic blend (poly/nylon). Thinner 
leather than a Carradice. Made in China. Basically, get this bag if you 
want the look and function of a classic Carradice bag, but don’t want to 
pay the price. *$15*

*Funky saddlebag.* I know absolutely nothing about who made this bag, as I 
picked it up secondhand. I’m guessing it was someone’s homebrew attempt at 
making a Carradice-like saddlebag. Appears to be waxed canvas, but thinner 
than what you’d find on a Carradice. Leather straps thinner, too. Wooden 
dowel is not attached to bag. Left side outside pocket flap sewn on 
backwards. Light brown in color. Measures 11“x9“x7“. *$10*

yours,
Shawn

*
http://urbanadventureleague.wordpress.com/
http://groups.google.com/group/urban-adventure-league-portland
http://societyofthreespeeds.wordpress.com/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/urbanadventureleaguepdx/ 
http://bikesspottedpdx.tumblr.com/
Un-electronic mail goes here: P O Box 14185, Portland OR 97293-0185

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[RBW] Re: "Science" is working against me

[IanA]

Being attractive is over-rated.  I know from experience.

Ian A/Canada.
(If only it were true!).

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 12:31:49 PM UTC-7, Tom Virgil wrote:
>
> At several levels , 
> being an 80% of the time "Just Ride" kind of person.  Guess I will just 
> continue to wear sunglasses and be excluded from considerations.
>
> (I am not taking this seriously.  It just made me laugh at myself).
>
> Tom
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Wheelbuilding advice: spoke gauge? symmetrical rim?

[Tim Gavin]

Thanks for the advice, gang.  You've convinced me to get an off-center
asymmetrical rim for the rear.
I'm still going to use my Phil FW hub because I have it; I don't have a
spare high-end cassette hub lying around.
I'm going with DT Swiss Champion 2.0/1.8/2.0 butted spokes, 36 per wheel.

Spoke length:  This
calculatorreturned
a value of 272.2 non-drive side, 271.8 drive side (rear wheel).
 272mm spokes should be good for both sides, right?

The calculator returned a value of 272.6 for the front wheel.  Can I use
the same 272mm spokes?  Or do I need to go longer, to the 274mm?

Thanks,
Tim


On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 7:45 AM, Leslie  wrote:

> AASHTA:
> From http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html :
>
> *Double-butted spokes do more than save weight. The thick ends make them
> as strong in the highly-stressed areas as straight-gauge spokes of the same
> thickness, but the thinner middle sections make the spokes effectively more
> elastic, allowing them to stretch (temporarily) more than thicker spokes.*
>
> *As a result, when the wheel is subjected to sharp localized stresses, the
> most heavily-stressed spokes can elongate enough to shift some of the
> stress to adjoining spokes. This is particularly desirable when the
> limiting factor is how much stress the rim can withstand without cracking
> around the spoke holes.*
>
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[RBW] Re: "Science" is working against me

[Liesl]

I think I was not included as one of the women surveyed in the study that 
found that women have a sophisticated radar for athletic performance, 
rating those with greater sporting skill as more attractive.  I have no 
sophisticated radar.

RCW

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[RBW] Re: "Science" is working against me

[sameness]

No doubt I look much better when passing by at a steady clip. 

It's only when I stop that you're struck with the grim visage of poor 
genetics and even poorer lifestyle choices.

Jeff Hagedorn
San Diego, CA USA

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[RBW] Re: "Science" is working against me

[Deacon Patrick]

Must RACE to improve looks! I wonder how much faster I'd have to go to 
actually reach "attractive"? No doubt I'd have to set speed records for 
human AND motor powered locomotion. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 12:31:49 PM UTC-7, Tom Virgil wrote:
>
> At several levels , 
> being an 80% of the time "Just Ride" kind of person.  Guess I will just 
> continue to wear sunglasses and be excluded from considerations.
>
> (I am not taking this seriously.  It just made me laugh at myself).
>
> Tom
>

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[RBW] "Science" is working against me

[Tom Virgil]

At several levels , 
being an 80% of the time "Just Ride" kind of person.  Guess I will just 
continue to wear sunglasses and be excluded from considerations.

(I am not taking this seriously.  It just made me laugh at myself).

Tom

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[RBW] FS: Rivendell Summer Gloves in XXXL

[Chris in Redding, Ca.]

Gloves are sold. Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: First Grand Bois Flat :-(

[Rod Holland]

Grand Bois Cypres Extra Leger (32mm), 1000 miles of mixed-terrain riding, 1 
puncture flat (small wire). Also, one sidewall nick that I didn't notice 
but my LBS caught while servicing the bike; that's patched, and the tire 
still seems serviceable. When the snows came, I switch to Continental Top 
Contact Winter IIs, which have solved all my problems of excessive 
suppleness. ;-)

rod

On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 12:53:11 PM UTC-5, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Well, so much for one of my fantasies (about the very low incidence of 
> flats with Grand Bois Hetres and other high-volume, low-pressure tires). 
> Got my first flat last night while I was out for a short ride in the dark. 
> Close enough to home that I hoofed it the rest of the way and fixed the 
> flat inside the house.
>
> This was my first flat after about 500-600 miles of riding, which I guess 
> isn’t *that* bad. Guess my hopes were raised by Jan Heine’s blog post:
>
> The Grand Bois “Hetre” 650B x 42 mm tires are amazingly flat-proof for 
> most riders. I have had two flats in three years of urban riding on them. 
> It’s probably a combination of the width – less pressure means that the 
> tire can roll over debris without it cutting into the rubber – and perhaps 
> the tread profile.
>
> If you’re running GB Hetres, what is your experience with flats?
>
> --Eric Norris
> Email: campyo...@me.com 
> Web: www.campyonly.com
> Blog: http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
> Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
> Flickr: www.flickr.com/photos/campyonlyguy 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Filson Oil Cloth Parka (L) $200, like new

[Bruce Herbitter]

Did someone say Medium?

The vertically challenged among us perk up our ears


On 2/5/2014 10:18 AM, Leslie wrote:
Unfortunately, the size was off in the wrong direction;  if it was an 
XL, I'd have been excited...   a medium just isn't gonna fit me :(




On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 10:33:32 PM UTC-5, Kevin Mulcahy wrote:



I will entertain any reasonable offer. If you'd like the jacket,
please contact me off list with a price that you'd be happy with
and let work something out.

Thanks again,
Kevin

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[RBW] Re: First Grand Bois Flat :-(

[blueride2]

No flats in maybe 500 miles on the Hetres. I did have a flat yesterday on 
the GB Cypres tires. I have about 1100 miles on the Cypres and have had 2-3 
flats. It was no fun changing a flat in 35 degree weather, but this is the 
price we pay.

I have a bad habit of overinflating my tires which increases the likelihood 
of a flat. "When in doubt, let air out!"

Richard

On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 10:45:30 PM UTC-5, Mike Schiller wrote:

> I'm almost reluctant to say, bad karma and all no flats in about 1200 
> miles on mine including some pretty rough dirt.
>
> ~mike
> Carlsbad Ca.
>
>
>>

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[RBW] Re: First Grand Bois Flat :-(

[Anton Tutter]

The discrepancy is not too odd... a lot of what determines "optimal" 
pressure for a given tire and weight combo is also frame geometry and 
compliance.  I find with my Shogun I need to keep the front tire at least 5 
psi higher, sometimes 10 psi, than on my Rawland for each bike to give me a 
comparable road feel and steering response.

Anton


On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 12:17:36 PM UTC-5, Mike Schiller wrote:
>
> hmmm... I weigh about 195 lbs and run my Hetres about the same pressures.  
>
> ~mike
>
> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 7:16:52 AM UTC-8, Anton Tutter wrote:
>>
>> I think there are a lot of factors that contribute to flat frequency, but 
>> I think at the top of the list are total axle weight and tire pressure.  
>> I'm only 160 lb and keep my Hetres between 30 psi (for gravel) and 45 psi 
>> (for smooth pavement), and I think this might explain why I've only had one 
>> flat so far.
>>
>> Anton
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: First Grand Bois Flat :-(

[Mike Schiller]

hmmm... I weigh about 195 lbs and run my Hetres about the same pressures.  

~mike

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 7:16:52 AM UTC-8, Anton Tutter wrote:
>
> I think there are a lot of factors that contribute to flat frequency, but 
> I think at the top of the list are total axle weight and tire pressure.  
> I'm only 160 lb and keep my Hetres between 30 psi (for gravel) and 45 psi 
> (for smooth pavement), and I think this might explain why I've only had one 
> flat so far.
>
> Anton
>
>

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[RBW] FS: Rivendell Summer Gloves in XXXL

[Chris in Redding, Ca.]

Hey All,
I was gifted a pair of these in XXXL. (so 3 X's). They will never fit my 
peculiarly small hands, so.how about $17 delivered to CONUS?

All the best,
Chris
Redding, Ca.

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[RBW] Re: Bosco interrupted?

[John Philip]

The adjusters on the interrupters were helpful but with these inverse 
levers the feel was just too mushy and weak regardless of whatever I tried 
with the various brake variables.  I think René reported on this list that 
he had better luck with Paul inverse levers with this setup. 
On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 11:19:00 AM UTC-5, BSWP wrote:
>
> Thanks, those are wildly helpful images, and especially showing the 
> shortened Boscos. I've never run the inverse levers, but can imagine the 
> adjustment is different - all up at the brakes, though the interrupters 
> must have given some adjustment, too, with their barrels, no?
>
> - Andrew
>
> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 2:25:42 AM UTC-8, John Philip wrote:
>>
>> I tried it for a while on my Atlantis.  
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/cnyriv/7609435504/   It worked fine 
>> although the  inverse lever/canti combo I used was difficult to adjust and 
>> was very mushy.  I've since changed to Albastache on this bike.  I never 
>> much liked the stem shifters in this setup. The interrupters worked fine.
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Phil Track Low-Flange Polished Silver / Mavic Open Pro Silver 32H w/ IRD CNC 16T Freewheel

[Curtis Schmitt]

I should have mentioned this in my previous post -- if by chance you have a
Schmidt dynohub wheel or wheelset w/ or w/out lights that you'd like to
trade (plus cash on either side, depending on the deal) please let me know!
I'd prefer all silver and 28H or 32H.


On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 11:31 AM, Curtis Schmitt wrote:

> Wheelset only has about 250 miles on it. Looking for $500 + s/h. Want to
> buy a Schmidt dynohub wheelset, so these beauties gots to go.
>
> http://instagram.com/p/dSKxBzvgo5/
>
> Curtis
>
>
>

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[RBW] FS: Phil Track Low-Flange Polished Silver / Mavic Open Pro Silver 32H w/ IRD CNC 16T Freewheel

[Curtis Schmitt]

Wheelset only has about 250 miles on it. Looking for $500 + s/h. Want to
buy a Schmidt dynohub wheelset, so these beauties gots to go.

http://instagram.com/p/dSKxBzvgo5/

Curtis

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Re: [RBW] Down tube friction shfiters and 9-cog cassettes

[sameness]

This has been somewhat of my experience as well, though mostly on hills. 
I've been too lazy to try out the 8sp cassette I've had sitting around 
for... a very long time, so I've just gotten used to shifting early or 
going an extra click and trimming.

Data points: SunTour ratchet bar-cons, Shimano (HG?) 9sp 11-32, Shimano XT 
medium cage RD.

Jeff Hagedorn
San Diego, CA USA

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 3:01:54 AM UTC-8, justin...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> I've never been able to get friction to work reliably on 9sp in the 
> situations I need. Heading into hills, starting out, anywhere where the 
> torque amps up I would get the dreaded ghost shift and CH CHUNK! I would 
> stick with 8sp, personally. 
>
> -J
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: First Grand Bois Flat :-(

[Jim Bronson]

Yeah I agree.  I weigh 270ish and it's really hard on tires.  My tires
would probably last a lot longer if I weighed 160.  But I'm 6´7 and I
haven't weighed 160 since 8th grade or so.
On Feb 5, 2014 9:16 AM, "Anton Tutter"  wrote:

> I think there are a lot of factors that contribute to flat frequency, but
> I think at the top of the list are total axle weight and tire pressure.
> I'm only 160 lb and keep my Hetres between 30 psi (for gravel) and 45 psi
> (for smooth pavement), and I think this might explain why I've only had one
> flat so far.
>
> Anton
>
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[RBW] Re: FS: Filson Oil Cloth Parka (L) $200, like new

[Leslie]

Unfortunately, the size was off in the wrong direction;  if it was an XL, 
I'd have been excited...   a medium just isn't gonna fit me :( 



On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 10:33:32 PM UTC-5, Kevin Mulcahy wrote:
>
>
>
> I will entertain any reasonable offer. If you'd like the jacket, please 
> contact me off list with a price that you'd be happy with and let work 
> something out. 
>
> Thanks again,
> Kevin
>

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[RBW] Re: Bosco interrupted?

[BSWP]

Thanks, those are wildly helpful images, and especially showing the 
shortened Boscos. I've never run the inverse levers, but can imagine the 
adjustment is different - all up at the brakes, though the interrupters 
must have given some adjustment, too, with their barrels, no?

- Andrew

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 2:25:42 AM UTC-8, John Philip wrote:
>
> I tried it for a while on my Atlantis.  
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/cnyriv/7609435504/   It worked fine although 
> the  inverse lever/canti combo I used was difficult to adjust and was very 
> mushy.  I've since changed to Albastache on this bike.  I never much liked 
> the stem shifters in this setup. The interrupters worked fine.
>
>

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[RBW] Down tube friction shfiters and 9-cog cassettes

[Philip Williamson]

I think it can work with practice. The derailleur made a bigger difference for 
me than the shifters, but I've only used bar-ends, and never Silvers.

I've shifted 9sp friction with an XTR derailleur and Suntour barcons 
(ratcheting) for years on my mountain bike. It seems to work fine, but I tend 
to shift early and rarely. I rode it in the rain on rocky uphill single track 
on Sunday and it worked great (which means "totally unremarkably"). I did 
re-count the cogs, because I had thought 9sp was too fiddly to shift friction 
in the past. I guess I got the hang of it.

I had a hard time friction-shifting a 9sp cassette with Shimano bar end 
shifters and a Suntour Cyclone derailleur, and went to a 12-32 7sp cassette. 
When I changed to a Shimano 105 (medium cage?) derailleur, I noticed the spring 
was much much stronger, and shifting was much easier, both in lever feel and 
shift accuracy. Last weekend I installed the matching front derailleur, to go 
from a single ring to a triple, and changed the 7sp to a 12-25 9sp, because the 
105's upper pulley rubbed the 32t cog. I find the friction shifting now totally 
manageable with 9sp, and the jumps between gears is much more pleasant while 
riding with my roadie friends yesterday. Also, the closer gears mean a less 
jarring mis-shift, which happened maybe twice in ten miles.

Philip
www.biketinker.com
.

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Re: [RBW] Down tube friction shfiters and 9-cog cassettes

[Eric Norris]

No problems at all shifting my 9-speed Riv Road with friction downtube levers. 
With a little practice, it works almost as easily as index shifting.

--Eric N
www.CampyOnly.com
CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy

> On Feb 4, 2014, at 9:33 PM, Reid  wrote:
> 
> I'm thinking of getting a Riv AHH (would be my second Riv). My long time ride 
> has simple down tube friction shifters with a 6-cog freewheel. Down tube 
> friction shifters just appeal to me, so I'm trying to figure out if that is a 
> reasonable thing to do with more cogs.
>  
> Some people have posted that friction shifting with 9 cogs in the back is too 
> fiddly to be practical. I can understand that in general, but would like some 
> feedback from people who have a lot of experience with friction shifting and 
> have tried it with 9 cogs. Does anyone think that works if one has enough 
> experience with friction shifting?
>  
> The other option is the IRD/Riv 8 cog, which seems to have a decent spread of 
> cog sizes. Would the 8 cog be noticeably easier/better than 9 cogs with 
> friction shifting?
>  
> Any feedback is much appreciated.
>  
> Reid
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Re: [RBW] Down tube friction shfiters and 9-cog cassettes

[Joe Hogg]

  
  
On 02/05/2014 02:55 AM, Jim Thill -
  Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:


  I'd stick with 7/8 sp cassettes. Here's why. Riv's Silver shifter isn't a true friction shifter, but a ratchet. That means the shifter has a finite number of stops rather than an infinite number of positions in true friction. If you try to shift to a position between the ratchet clicks, the shifter will be pulled by the derailleur spring to the next click rather than staying between clicks where you put it! So if you shift to where the derailleur moves the chain to the perfect position over the desired cog... As soon as you take your hand off the shifter, the shifter relaxes into the next ratchet click, and the perfect alignment is gone. We've found that these shifters "work" with 9sp cassettes but that there are always a few noisy gears where the ratchet clicks don't allow the derailleur to line up perfectly with the cogs (made worse because 9sp cassettes have ramps for easy shifting at the slightest hint on a movement of the chain). I believe most people who detec
t this noise simply "trim" the shift until they chain is riding on a different cog that more closely aligns with one of the clicks. In practice, your 9 sp cassette has only 6 or 7 gears that will be tolerably non-noisy. You could ride for years and not notice this, of course, constantly attributing the noise to simply needing to trim the shift, always landing on a cog adjacent to the cog that you really want to be in. But in the repair stand, it's obvious when you try to shift through the range one gear at a time.



Thanks Jim. I had this experience using silver shifters, bar-end,
with a 9-speed cassette. Moving to an speed cassette solved the
"between" cog noise. Using Shimano 8-speed shifters also work great.

Joe Hogg
LA, CA
  




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Re: [RBW] Re: Winter Bikepacking tips?

[ascpgh]

Hope it's controllable within expectations, what a great plan.

That makes me recall the effect of early rides on the tandem where its 
rigidity transmitted the minutia of movement by my dear (wife) stoker, 
making me feel very much as if I was soon to fall over.  No vertigo 
problems for me other than the perceived strong and immediate likelihood of 
falling soon! 

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh



On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 4:47:16 AM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> With rope, yes. That's why I went with a pulk, which has poles between the 
> sled and me. But that remains a question as to how it effects my vertigo.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>

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[RBW] Re: First Grand Bois Flat :-(

[Anton Tutter]

I think there are a lot of factors that contribute to flat frequency, but I 
think at the top of the list are total axle weight and tire pressure.  I'm 
only 160 lb and keep my Hetres between 30 psi (for gravel) and 45 psi (for 
smooth pavement), and I think this might explain why I've only had one flat 
so far.

Anton

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[RBW] Re: First Grand Bois Flat :-(

[Anton Tutter]

[knocks on wood]

Bike 1: My Shogun used mostly for brevet-type rides, regular hetres, over 
1000 miles, more than half on gravel.  One flat.  It was from a thorn it 
picked up after I walked the bike through a thorny bush, my bad.

Bike 2: Wife's errand bike, regular Hetres, and she rides it exclusively in 
the city, with debris-strewn shoulders. Probably has over 500 miles and no 
flats yet.

Bike 3: My Rawland with Extra-legere Hetres, about 500 miles, more than 
half on gravel.  No flats but I badly nicked sidewall (still rideable with 
a boot and superglue but maybe not as reliable now).

Overall I'd say that's a pretty good track record.

Anton

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[RBW] Re: FS: Filson Oil Cloth Parka (L) $200, like new

[Kieran J]

Or perhaps the OP always measures his height laying down?
 
KJ
 

On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 10:33:32 PM UTC-5, Kevin Mulcahy wrote:

>
>
> I will entertain any reasonable offer. If you'd like the jacket, please 
> contact me off list with a price that you'd be happy with and let work 
> something out. 
>
> Thanks again,
> Kevin
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Down tube friction shfiters and 9-cog cassettes

[Tim Gavin]

I'm shifting a 9 speed 11-34 cassette with Silver shifters and the
Microshift RD.  Works great, no problems.  My Riv shifts where and when I
want it to.

However, I'm going back to a 7 speed 14-34 freewheel when I build my new
wheels, simply because I have a Phil FW hub sitting unused.

Tim


On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 7:40 AM, Ron Mc  wrote:

> I'm shifting 8 on friction DT and 7 on friction barcons.  My daughter's go
> fast has Shimano (Miche custom) 9-speed rear with Ultegra road RD and
> Microshift 9-speed barcon.  It is the best shifter I've ever seen.  My next
> bike is going to be a Microshift drivetrain.
>
>
> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 7:32:16 AM UTC-6, Pondero wrote:
>>
>> Hi Reid, I haven't tried the 9-speed, but am using Silver downtube
>> shifters with an 8-speed cassette.  I find it delightful.  I am not a
>> highly-skilled shifter, but get the shift right with no need to fine-tune
>> most of the time.  Sometimes fine-tuning is needed, but it doesn't bother
>> me.  Because some have suggested that downtube shifters on large frames
>> might be quite a reach, I'll point out that I ride a 56cm frame.
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Wheelbuilding advice: spoke gauge? symmetrical rim?

[Leslie]

AASHTA:
>From http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html :

*Double-butted spokes do more than save weight. The thick ends make them as 
strong in the highly-stressed areas as straight-gauge spokes of the same 
thickness, but the thinner middle sections make the spokes effectively more 
elastic, allowing them to stretch (temporarily) more than thicker spokes.*

*As a result, when the wheel is subjected to sharp localized stresses, the 
most heavily-stressed spokes can elongate enough to shift some of the 
stress to adjoining spokes. This is particularly desirable when the 
limiting factor is how much stress the rim can withstand without cracking 
around the spoke holes.*

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[RBW] Re: Down tube friction shfiters and 9-cog cassettes

[Ron Mc]

I'm shifting 8 on friction DT and 7 on friction barcons.  My daughter's go 
fast has Shimano (Miche custom) 9-speed rear with Ultegra road RD and 
Microshift 9-speed barcon.  It is the best shifter I've ever seen.  My next 
bike is going to be a Microshift drivetrain.  

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 7:32:16 AM UTC-6, Pondero wrote:
>
> Hi Reid, I haven't tried the 9-speed, but am using Silver downtube 
> shifters with an 8-speed cassette.  I find it delightful.  I am not a 
> highly-skilled shifter, but get the shift right with no need to fine-tune 
> most of the time.  Sometimes fine-tuning is needed, but it doesn't bother 
> me.  Because some have suggested that downtube shifters on large frames 
> might be quite a reach, I'll point out that I ride a 56cm frame.
>

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[RBW] Re: Down tube friction shfiters and 9-cog cassettes

[Pondero]

Hi Reid, I haven't tried the 9-speed, but am using Silver downtube shifters 
with an 8-speed cassette.  I find it delightful.  I am not a highly-skilled 
shifter, but get the shift right with no need to fine-tune most of the 
time.  Sometimes fine-tuning is needed, but it doesn't bother me.  Because 
some have suggested that downtube shifters on large frames might be quite a 
reach, I'll point out that I ride a 56cm frame.

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[RBW] Re: Down tube friction shfiters and 9-cog cassettes

[Takashi]

I use Gran Compe downtube friction (ratchet) shifters with Shimano XT 
10-speed cog.
So far I have not noticed any problems with them.
It's my only bike with friction shifters, so I don't know whether it's good 
or bad compared to fewer speed cogs.

Takashi


2014年2月5日水曜日 14時33分49秒 UTC+9 Reid:
>
> I'm thinking of getting a Riv AHH (would be my second Riv). My long time 
> ride has simple down tube friction shifters with a 6-cog freewheel. Down 
> tube friction shifters just appeal to me, so I'm trying to figure out if 
> that is a reasonable thing to do with more cogs.
>  
> Some people have posted that friction shifting with 9 cogs in the back is 
> too fiddly to be practical. I can understand that in general, but would 
> like some feedback from people who have a lot of experience with friction 
> shifting and have tried it with 9 cogs. Does anyone think that works if one 
> has enough experience with friction shifting?
>  
> The other option is the IRD/Riv 8 cog, which seems to have a decent spread 
> of cog sizes. Would the 8 cog be noticeably easier/better than 9 cogs with 
> friction shifting?
>  
> Any feedback is much appreciated.
>  
> Reid
>

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[RBW] Re: Down tube friction shfiters and 9-cog cassettes

[Michael Hechmer]

I have used both BE & DT silver shifters with 9 spd cassettes for very many 
years with very few problems.  My Ram, set up with an HG 11-28 cassette and 
the new Ultegra RD is the best shifting bike I have ever owned, and that 
includes two bikes with Ultegra SIS.  When I have had problems it has 
always come back to two issues.  First, it does seem to require a good 
cassette and a good chain.  I had a lot of problems with a low end SRAM set 
up.  Now I use HG cassettes and Conex chains exclusively (LBS price for the 
latter is far below RBW).  The second issue is cage length.  A shorter cage 
works perfectly, mid range cages work well enough but very long cages like 
the XT and longest campys can cause some jumping.  On my tandem I have gone 
from an 11-32 cassette, xt derailler and BE indexed to an 11-28, Ultegra 
derailler and BE friction.  The shifting actually improved.

I don't like the hesitation between shifts that comes with indexing, and, 
because I live in a place with a lot of rolling countryside I like to be 
able to jump across many cogs at once.  DT friction excels at that.  When I 
do miss a shift I begin by assuming its me, not the set up, and I'm usually 
right about that.

Michael

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 12:33:49 AM UTC-5, Reid wrote:
>
> I'm thinking of getting a Riv AHH (would be my second Riv). My long time 
> ride has simple down tube friction shifters with a 6-cog freewheel. Down 
> tube friction shifters just appeal to me, so I'm trying to figure out if 
> that is a reasonable thing to do with more cogs.
>  
> Some people have posted that friction shifting with 9 cogs in the back is 
> too fiddly to be practical. I can understand that in general, but would 
> like some feedback from people who have a lot of experience with friction 
> shifting and have tried it with 9 cogs. Does anyone think that works if one 
> has enough experience with friction shifting?
>  
> The other option is the IRD/Riv 8 cog, which seems to have a decent spread 
> of cog sizes. Would the 8 cog be noticeably easier/better than 9 cogs with 
> friction shifting?
>  
> Any feedback is much appreciated.
>  
> Reid
>

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Re: [RBW] Down tube friction shfiters and 9-cog cassettes

[justinaugust]

I've never been able to get friction to work reliably on 9sp in the situations 
I need. Heading into hills, starting out, anywhere where the torque amps up I 
would get the dreaded ghost shift and CH CHUNK! I would stick with 8sp, 
personally. 

-J

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Re: [RBW] Down tube friction shfiters and 9-cog cassettes

[Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery]

I'd stick with 7/8 sp cassettes. Here's why. Riv's Silver shifter isn't a true 
friction shifter, but a ratchet. That means the shifter has a finite number of 
stops rather than an infinite number of positions in true friction. If you try 
to shift to a position between the ratchet clicks, the shifter will be pulled 
by the derailleur spring to the next click rather than staying between clicks 
where you put it! So if you shift to where the derailleur moves the chain to 
the perfect position over the desired cog... As soon as you take your hand off 
the shifter, the shifter relaxes into the next ratchet click, and the perfect 
alignment is gone. We've found that these shifters "work" with 9sp cassettes 
but that there are always a few noisy gears where the ratchet clicks don't 
allow the derailleur to line up perfectly with the cogs (made worse because 9sp 
cassettes have ramps for easy shifting at the slightest hint on a movement of 
the chain). I believe most people who detect this noise simply "trim" the shift 
until they chain is riding on a different cog that more closely aligns with one 
of the clicks. In practice, your 9 sp cassette has only 6 or 7 gears that will 
be tolerably non-noisy. You could ride for years and not notice this, of 
course, constantly attributing the noise to simply needing to trim the shift, 
always landing on a cog adjacent to the cog that you really want to be in. But 
in the repair stand, it's obvious when you try to shift through the range one 
gear at a time.

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[RBW] Re: Bosco interrupted?

[John Philip]

I tried it for a while on my Atlantis. 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cnyriv/7609435504/   It worked fine although 
the  inverse lever/canti combo I used was difficult to adjust and was very 
mushy.  I've since changed to Albastache on this bike.  I never much liked 
the stem shifters in this setup. The interrupters worked fine.

On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 9:50:25 PM UTC-5, BSWP wrote:
>
> Just wondering and pondering on the wonderful ponderosa of possibilities, 
> and so I'll ask - has anyone put reverse-action brake levers on Bosco bars, 
> and also run the cables along the bars, under tape, to a pair of 
> interruptors at the stem? Seems like that setup could provide a dreamy 
> surface for hand positions with brakes at both ends, and nothing inbetween 
> to catch your hands as they move forth and back.
>
> - Andrew, Berkeley
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Winter Bikepacking tips?

[Deacon Patrick]

With rope, yes. That's why I went with a pulk, which has poles between the sled 
and me. But that remains a question as to how it effects my vertigo.

With abandon,
Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Down tube friction shfiters and 9-cog cassettes

[Bruce Herbitter]

I've shifted 9s friction for the past 15,000 miles on  a Ram and a 
Saluki. Bar ends, but don't see that  DT,would be different. No issues.


On 2/4/2014 11:33 PM, Reid wrote:
I'm thinking of getting a Riv AHH (would be my second Riv). My long 
time ride has simple down tube friction shifters with a 6-cog 
freewheel. Down tube friction shifters just appeal to me, so I'm 
trying to figure out if that is a reasonable thing to do with more cogs.
Some people have posted that friction shifting with 9 cogs in the back 
is too fiddly to be practical. I can understand that in general, but 
would like some feedback from people who have a lot of experience with 
friction shifting and have tried it with 9 cogs. Does anyone think 
that works if one has enough experience with friction shifting?
The other option is the IRD/Riv 8 cog, which seems to have a decent 
spread of cog sizes. Would the 8 cog be noticeably easier/better than 
9 cogs with friction shifting?

Any feedback is much appreciated.
Reid
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