[RBW] Re: Un-racer compact crankset question.

[lungimsam]

So sounds like its doable if I wanna play with it one day.
But costly, as I'll need new derailers and cranks, maybe bb and custom toothed 
rings. Maybe something to prepare as the wallet allows for future try out.

Compass cycles Rene Herse cranks would be cool because you can change the rings 
without having to remove the crank arm, if I remember right,  which would be 
great for an un-mechanic like myself.

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[RBW] Noodles to Albastache stem length?

['Hudson Doerge' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I just swapped drops for albastaches on my SO and I kept the same stem but 
moved it up a tad I think. Nice thing about a quill stem. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Noodles to Albastache stem length?

[cyclotourist]

D'oh!

Cheers,
David

"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal





On Thu, Aug 14, 2014 at 9:43 PM, Mike  wrote:

>
>
> On Thursday, August 14, 2014 7:12:02 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>> Mike, for me Albas were fine with either an extension 10mm more than the
>> one I used on drops drops.
>>
>
> David, you're talking about Albatross bars, not Albastache, right?
>
> --mike
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Noodles to Albastache stem length?

[Mike]

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 7:12:02 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Mike, for me Albas were fine with either an extension 10mm more than the 
> one I used on drops drops. 
>

David, you're talking about Albatross bars, not Albastache, right?

--mike 

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Re: [RBW] Recommend all silver triple FD for Bleriot build please.

[Jim Bronson]

Microshift stuff seems to be hard to find except for a few models.  No
telling whether any individual model will be available on the Internet or
not.

I was interested in the RD-R51M as it's a road rear derailer rated to
handle 34t cassettes, but I couldn't find anyone selling it.  The plain
jane Deore M-591 is available for less than $50 online so for me there
wasn't any reason to keep scrounging around for an obscure Microshift
derailer.

On Thursday, August 14, 2014, lungimsam  wrote:

>  Look! microshift makes a few 9 and 8 speed silver front derailers:
> http://www.microshift.com.tw/road_fd.html
>
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[RBW] Re: Rivendell has let me down.

[dougP]

You got me thinking about the dog.  Here's the answer:

[image: Click here for a larger version of the picture]

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 2:13:46 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:
>
> dougP, what's that black strap attached to the dog's neck?
>>
> I'd think it was a collar, but it is pulled up so tight around the head. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Flat bar Roadeo

[dougP]

Maybe this really a foodie forum with a bicycling bent?  I seem to recall 
lots of "ride reports" that include details of the food & beverage 
component of the ride.

dougP

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 5:29:00 PM UTC-7, justin...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Mmm. Braised Roadeo. 
>
> -Justin, Hungry in Oakland. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: New build: Soma GR, and a question

[Jim Bronson]

Ok sorry, I see what you mean now.  I'll pull the cables back when I get
home from vacation and swap the cable stops.  I'll stick to riding the
Rivendell for now.
On Aug 14, 2014 7:13 PM, "'jinxed' via RBW Owners Bunch" <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> On Thursday, August 14, 2014 7:43:25 PM UTC-6, Jim Bronson wrote:
>>
>> No, they are both above the mounting bolt.
>>
>>
> I think the confusion might be my "backwards" description. The actual
> adjuster barrel obviously has to face the front of the bike to accept the
> cable housing. But it is designed to be mounted hanging toward the bottom
> of the downtube. The picture of the Rivendell adjusters is correct, the
> barrels are below the bolt facing forwards. I should not have said they
> were "backwards"...simply put, they're on the wrong sides. The left and
> right are transposed which puts the adjusters towards the top tube instead
> of the ground. It really should have no affect on the shifting, and
> honestly makes the adjusters easier to reach from the saddle. I only
> mentioned it because you're trying to identify possible issues.
>
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[RBW] Recommend all silver triple FD for Bleriot build please.

[Lynne Fitz]

my Bleriot FD is a mid 90's Shimano Deore.  It moved over from the previous 
bike, is silver, and has never given me a bit of trouble, ever.

The custom Sweetpea (same crankset) has a Shimano Tiagra, which I do not like, 
although it is currently behaving.  There is the aforementioned IRD FD waiting 
to be installed, when I get around to it.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Looking for a 61 cm Atlantis

[cyclotourist]

Yep, I have one in blue!

Cheers,
David

"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal





On Thu, Aug 14, 2014 at 9:08 AM, Allingham II, Thomas J <
thomas.alling...@skadden.com> wrote:

>  That's a beautiful bike!
>
>
>
> *From:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:
> rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *rw1911
> *Sent:* Thursday, August 14, 2014 12:39 AM
> *To:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* [RBW] Re: Looking for a 61 cm Atlantis
>
>
>
> I have been toying with the idea of selling my 61cm All-Rounder, which I
> believe was an early version of what is now the Atlantis.  The geometry is
> very similar though they were hand built by Match in the earlier days of
> Rivendell (Match, Goodrich, Stark) and were painted by Joe Bell.  I believe
> they're fairly rare in 700c (61cm and up).  David (Cyclotourist) has one
> out in CA, but I'm not aware of any others.  Jim (Cyclofiend) has some info
> on them here: http://www.cyclofiend.com/rbw/gen1/
>
> Unfortunately, I'm all the way up in PA or I'd gladly let you take spin.
> Also no real feedback on heavy touring vs. unloaded as I have only used
> with a medium saddle bag.  Email me off list if you would like some more
> info.
>
> Best,
>
> Ron
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, August 7, 2014 4:17:05 PM UTC-4, Comotion001 wrote:
>
> I'm looking for a 61  cm Atlantis if anyone has one they want to depart
> with. After doing a lot of research on touring bikes, I have been very
> impressed with the feedback on the Atlantis as well as it's versatility.
>  Since I have never ridden one, I would like to find someone close to
> Charlotte NC that has an Atlantis or other Riv that I can actually look at
> and perhaps ride.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell has let me down.

[cyclotourist]

It's a GoPro.

Cheers,
David

"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal





On Thu, Aug 14, 2014 at 3:16 PM, dougP  wrote:

> No clue.  The picture is from the crazyguy website.
>
> dougP
>
>
> On Thursday, August 14, 2014 2:13:46 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:
>>
>> dougP, what's that black strap attached to the dog's neck?
>>>
>> I'd think it was a collar, but it is pulled up so tight around the head.
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: New build: Soma GR, and a question

[David Banzer]

"But it is designed to be mounted hanging toward the bottom of the
downtube."
Yup, that's what I meant by above/below, which also could be confusing,
because it's relative to a specific point.

In reality, I doubt it would be the source of your shifting woes. I have a
bike with Suntour Symmetrics shifters (braze-on mount on top of the dt)
that would have the same cable angle to bb guides, and it shifts fine.

David
Chicago


On Thu, Aug 14, 2014 at 9:13 PM, 'jinxed' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> On Thursday, August 14, 2014 7:43:25 PM UTC-6, Jim Bronson wrote:
>>
>> No, they are both above the mounting bolt.
>>
>>
> I think the confusion might be my "backwards" description. The actual
> adjuster barrel obviously has to face the front of the bike to accept the
> cable housing. But it is designed to be mounted hanging toward the bottom
> of the downtube. The picture of the Rivendell adjusters is correct, the
> barrels are below the bolt facing forwards. I should not have said they
> were "backwards"...simply put, they're on the wrong sides. The left and
> right are transposed which puts the adjusters towards the top tube instead
> of the ground. It really should have no affect on the shifting, and
> honestly makes the adjusters easier to reach from the saddle. I only
> mentioned it because you're trying to identify possible issues.
>
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[RBW] Re: New build: Soma GR, and a question

['jinxed' via RBW Owners Bunch]

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 7:43:25 PM UTC-6, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
> No, they are both above the mounting bolt.
>
>
I think the confusion might be my "backwards" description. The actual 
adjuster barrel obviously has to face the front of the bike to accept the 
cable housing. But it is designed to be mounted hanging toward the bottom 
of the downtube. The picture of the Rivendell adjusters is correct, the 
barrels are below the bolt facing forwards. I should not have said they 
were "backwards"...simply put, they're on the wrong sides. The left and 
right are transposed which puts the adjusters towards the top tube instead 
of the ground. It really should have no affect on the shifting, and 
honestly makes the adjusters easier to reach from the saddle. I only 
mentioned it because you're trying to identify possible issues.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Noodles to Albastache stem length?

[cyclotourist]

Mike, for me Albas were fine with either an extension 10mm more than the
one I used on drops drops. When they REALLY shined is when I got them up
significantly higher though.

Cheers,
David

"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal





On Thu, Aug 14, 2014 at 3:06 PM, Dave Johnston  wrote:

> The Albastache sweeps forward less and back more than the moustache. I
> would recommend the same stem you are using now and see how it feels and go
> from there.
>
> -Dave
>
> On Thursday, August 14, 2014 5:50:00 PM UTC-4, Mike wrote:
>>
>> I haven't been following this list too closely over the past year so
>> forgive me if this topic is redundant. I'm thinking of giving the
>> Albastache bars a try on my LHT. I have plenty of steerer tube so there's
>> no issue with getting the bars high enough. What I am curious about is stem
>> length. I know with the old mustache bars it was recommended to go about
>> 2cm shorter than you would with drop bars. What's the recommendation with
>> the Albastaches?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> mike
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Shipping, Knickers, and Newbaums. Some observation.

[cyclotourist]

Ha!

Cheers,
David

"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal





On Thu, Aug 14, 2014 at 1:13 PM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:

> On 08/14/2014 03:46 PM, Philip Williamson wrote:
>
>> Agreed on USPS - I love them. I especially love walking my dog there in
>> the middle of the night to do my post office errands.
>> The crazy pension funding stipulation seems designed expressly to
>> undermine the Post Office in order to privatize it. It's is a federal
>> branch, established in the Constitution, in order for us to have a
>> civilization. There's as much reason to expect it to "pay for itself" as
>> there is to expect the Army to pay for itself.
>>
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plunder
>
>
>
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[RBW] Re: Un-racer compact crankset question.

[Michael Hechmer]

Ditto. I run a 44/30 with an 11-28.  This allows me to run a modern 
(rd6700)  along with the Campy Triple FD.  The combination, in9 spd gives 
me a super shifting pattern, and easy shifting on my Ram.  I love it.
Michael

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 8:56:22 AM UTC-4, Bob E wrote:
>
> I'm using 44/30 chainrings and a 12-27 10-speed cassette on my 650B bike, 
> giving me a 96 gear-inch high and a 29 gear-inch low. I spend most of the 
> time in the 44 ring (cruising while in the middle of the cassette gets me 
> around 70 gear-inches), while the smaller ring is used for climbing. This 
> range works great for me.
>  
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~mike.sherman/shift.html?R0=30&R1=44&R2=999&C0=12&C1=13&C2=14&C3=15&C4=16&C5=17&C6=19&C7=21&C8=24&C9=27&C10=999&CAS=0&WI=13&CR=170&RT=1&ST=0&RPM=90&SRT=0&lRPM=80&hRMP=100&G=show&S=no&TITLE=&HL=1
>  
> Bob E.
> Garwood, NJ
>

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[RBW] Re: New build: Soma GR, and a question

[Jim Bronson]

No, they are both above the mounting bolt.

Heck, on my Paul Taylor that has head tube mounted cable stops, it would be
impossible to put them on below the stops.

On Thursday, August 14, 2014, David Banzer  wrote:

> As per the cable stops:
> The Riv has the barrel adjusters below the mounting bolt,
> The GR has them above.
> Yes?
>
> David
> Chicago
>
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[RBW] Re: FS: Brooks Swift saddle, Nitto Dynamic II Stems, Cinelli Stem, Velo Orange Hammered Fenders, Dura Ace 7400/Mavic Open 4CD wheelset

['williwoods' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Bump with new prices see below:

Contact me for a shipping quote.


$25 - Selle Marino Superleggero Touriste M saddle. Vintage saddle. Saddle 
is in great shape no tears or blemishes other than the silver script is 
worn off a little.the leather was partially re-glued underneath the saddle 
but was done very well and not noticeable once mounted.

$40 - Velo Orange Hammered 700cx37mm fenders. Includes all stock mounting 
hardware plus some additional parts. These were mounted once and then 
removed, test ridden only once around the block. The Fender Stays were not 
cut, a few of the bolts were cut down but they are easy to find at any 
hardware store for a under a $1. They are in excellent shape, not perfect 
since they were mounted but this is a great way to save $15 compared to new.

$25- Nitto Dynamic II Stem 110mm/90 degree. I have two of these both were 
mounted once and then removed. no scratches or blemishes would be visible 
once mounted as the stems were never inserted beyond the max line. 

$25 - Cinelli XE stem 120mm. This stem came from a 90's Litespeed Titanium 
bike. Stem is in great shape. Classic Cinelli quality.

$80 - Dura Ace 7400/Mavic Open 4CD 8speed sis wheelset. 32 hole hubs that 
spin butter smooth, includes original 7400 dura ace skewers. Rims have a 
fairly well worn brake track but still have life left on them. the wheels 
are pretty straight just not perfect, will work perfectly fine as is or get 
them trued up. Will not include 8 speed cassette shown. Priced as though it 
was hubs only.



>

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Re: [RBW] Re: New build: Soma GR, and a question

[David Banzer]

As per the cable stops:
The Riv has the barrel adjusters below the mounting bolt,
The GR has them above.
Yes?

David
Chicago

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[RBW] Re: Flat bar Roadeo

[justinaugust]

Mmm. Braised Roadeo. 

-Justin, Hungry in Oakland. 

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[RBW] Re: Posting photos ???

[Ron Mc]

yes, no rust anywhere and I'm sure the bike will outlive me.  

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 5:48:57 PM UTC-5, Ryan wrote:
>
> Agreedit's aging beautifully. My early 70's Peugeot PX-10 (V3.0) 
> bought in 1981 is still a favourite bike. Not as practical as yours; it's a 
> single-speed. Frame,paint (some scrapes and scratches),  seatpost and 
> Ideale 90 saddle is original. Other stuff is a Japanese/Italian mix of 
> parts - Nitto,MKS,Campy. To think that I almost sold it. I'm sure glad I 
> didn't. Keeping bikes inside does do a lot for their longevity, thoughI 
> bet your frame has little , if any rust,and I'm sure it still rides like a 
> million bucks. Paint looks like it's in decent shape,too
>  
> A lot of us own expensive bikes on this listbut when you consider the 
> durability and value equation, we're not so extravagant after all!
> On Tuesday, August 12, 2014 10:20:41 PM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:
>
>> Thanks Liesl, it's 38 y-o and on its 3rd rebuild.  The paint is original, 
>> but otherwise, only the headset and brakes calipers are original.  It's 
>> been of course kept inside, but there are a few marks on the paint where my 
>> daughter used to climb on it when I had it on a turbotrainer.  The photo 
>> was just to show all my bag options - well, except putting a small trunk on 
>> the front rack, which is normal  I love the rando bag for the winter, and 
>> also for picnics.  The small MUTl bag on the rear rack holds a 25-oz. Laken 
>> thermo, so I can carry 75 oz. water total.  On a 3800-calorie ride in the 
>> hill country last summer we sweated 100oz.  The 3rd bottle always comes in 
>> handy riding with friends who inevitably don't bring enough for 
>> themselves...my best riding buddy dehydrated on me at about mile 40 last 
>> month...we had to stop, tach him down, get him wet, and the last 5 miles 
>> were creeping slow.  I live in steep hills, and it's the only bike I own 
>> that is easy getting around my neighborhood.  I have it geared 22" to 104" 
>> in about 5" steps, making it very flexible.  
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, August 12, 2014 9:30:07 PM UTC-5, Liesl wrote:
>>>
>>> ( Ron that is just such a pretty bike...)
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: New build: Soma GR, and a question

[Evan Baird]

That FD prolly needs a wider chain line.

On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 9:56:53 PM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
> Well Grant would probably not approve of the amount of seat post showing, 
> but, it seems to work pretty good for me, and I am comfortable riding it. 
>  Maybe would like a tad more elevation to the stem, but in practice riding 
> it around I don't notice.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/gp/23646261@N03/8p64BN/
>
> The question I have is, is that FD going to work for me?  I am thinking 
> no, because the loop around the post halves the amount of cable pull 
> available to the front shifter.  I can't get it to move nearly as much as I 
> need.  The specs said top pull or bottom pull, but really, I think it would 
> be better with top pull.  Too bad.  I bought a used IRD Alpina the other 
> day, I'm going to use that on the Rivendell and try the FD on the Rivendell 
> on my Soma GR.
> -- 
> Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 
>

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[RBW] Re: Flat bar Roadeo

[Philip Williamson]

The fastest rider in my group (by a good margin) rides a flat-bar Trek road 
bike. He rides fairly far and fairly fast, setting Strava KOMs in Sonoma 
County, if that's a measure. I said, "Maybe you'd shave a few seconds with 
drop bars," and he said, "My back won't allow that." 

Philip
www.biketinker.com

On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 6:36:47 PM UTC-7, Will wrote:
>
> You know... this invites scope creep. A rodeo with bars like this is a 
> town bike. Nothing wrong with that. But it needs stay braise-ons to secure 
> racks for utility shopping. That moves into Homer terrritory. 
>
> It is a slippery slope. I say do the braise ons and let the chips fall 
> wherever they fall.
>
> Will   
>
> On Monday, August 11, 2014 2:12:08 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> I had never seen a flat bar roadeo.  There's one on the BLUG now.  
>>
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> That looks to me like the ultralight version of the Jitensha Studio Nitto 
>> bar, but I'm not completely sure.  That's a pretty snazzy looking ride! 
>>  Even though I'm still a 100% drop-bar guy, I like that build.  I 
>> especially like the color
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: new Brooks C-17

[Don Compton]

I road 35 miles on my new Brooks C17. I had to make a few adjustments, 
saddle tilt and raised the bars a little. I think I like it. It reminds me 
of my B-17s before they developed the excessive humps. I still need to move 
the saddle a little forward. I have some Rivets and they're comfortable, 
but I like the saddle to feel a little sturdier, not flex as much.

On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 8:35:18 PM UTC-7, Don Compton wrote:
>
> Tomorrow will be my first 40 mile on my new C-17. Wish me luck. I just 
> can't ride my B-17s anymore. The hump that develops after miles of breakin 
> causes me some problems and , after not riding a B-17 for 3 months, I tried 
> one more time. The same crotch problems came back. Hopefully the C-17 will 
> work out.
> I have shortish femurs and the saddles that I am using on my other bikes 
> will not work on my Roadeo ( even with a no setback seatpost).
>

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[RBW] Re: Posting photos ???

[Ryan]

Agreedit's aging beautifully. My early 70's Peugeot PX-10 (V3.0) bought 
in 1981 is still a favourite bike. Not as practical as yours; it's a 
single-speed. Frame,paint (some scrapes and scratches),  seatpost and 
Ideale 90 saddle is original. Other stuff is a Japanese/Italian mix of 
parts - Nitto,MKS,Campy. To think that I almost sold it. I'm sure glad I 
didn't. Keeping bikes inside does do a lot for their longevity, thoughI 
bet your frame has little , if any rust,and I'm sure it still rides like a 
million bucks. Paint looks like it's in decent shape,too
 
A lot of us own expensive bikes on this listbut when you consider the 
durability and value equation, we're not so extravagant after all!
On Tuesday, August 12, 2014 10:20:41 PM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:

> Thanks Liesl, it's 38 y-o and on its 3rd rebuild.  The paint is original, 
> but otherwise, only the headset and brakes calipers are original.  It's 
> been of course kept inside, but there are a few marks on the paint where my 
> daughter used to climb on it when I had it on a turbotrainer.  The photo 
> was just to show all my bag options - well, except putting a small trunk on 
> the front rack, which is normal  I love the rando bag for the winter, and 
> also for picnics.  The small MUTl bag on the rear rack holds a 25-oz. Laken 
> thermo, so I can carry 75 oz. water total.  On a 3800-calorie ride in the 
> hill country last summer we sweated 100oz.  The 3rd bottle always comes in 
> handy riding with friends who inevitably don't bring enough for 
> themselves...my best riding buddy dehydrated on me at about mile 40 last 
> month...we had to stop, tach him down, get him wet, and the last 5 miles 
> were creeping slow.  I live in steep hills, and it's the only bike I own 
> that is easy getting around my neighborhood.  I have it geared 22" to 104" 
> in about 5" steps, making it very flexible.  
>
>
> 
>
>
> On Tuesday, August 12, 2014 9:30:07 PM UTC-5, Liesl wrote:
>>
>> ( Ron that is just such a pretty bike...)
>
>

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[RBW] Phrases you will only see on the RBW Group...

[Bill Lindsay]

Liesl might have started a thread for posts and post fragments that you 
only see here.  I submit this fragment:

"they seem to ride lighter than the avoirdupois would suggest"


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[RBW] Re: Rivendell has let me down.

[dougP]

No clue.  The picture is from the crazyguy website.  

dougP

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 2:13:46 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:
>
> dougP, what's that black strap attached to the dog's neck?
>>
> I'd think it was a collar, but it is pulled up so tight around the head. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: fs: Rivendell Atlantis ~ 56cm - frame/fork/Chris King headset/bottom bracket

[Jim Bronson]

Congratulations!
On Aug 14, 2014 11:52 AM, "Eric"  wrote:

> SOLD!
>
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[RBW] Re: Noodles to Albastache stem length?

[Dave Johnston]

The Albastache sweeps forward less and back more than the moustache. I 
would recommend the same stem you are using now and see how it feels and go 
from there.

-Dave 

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 5:50:00 PM UTC-4, Mike wrote:
>
> I haven't been following this list too closely over the past year so 
> forgive me if this topic is redundant. I'm thinking of giving the 
> Albastache bars a try on my LHT. I have plenty of steerer tube so there's 
> no issue with getting the bars high enough. What I am curious about is stem 
> length. I know with the old mustache bars it was recommended to go about 
> 2cm shorter than you would with drop bars. What's the recommendation with 
> the Albastaches? 
>
> Thanks,
> mike
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Un-racer compact crankset question.

[Dan McNamara]

On one bike I am playing with 46/28 and the Riv-spec'd 8 speed IRD 12-34.
According to Sheldon that gives a range of 99.7 - 35.2 on the big ring. I
am treating the small ring as a bailout - which comes in handy in Marin for
the over 50 crowd. No issues on either ring across the cassette. Which is a
nice change from using using a triple up front. And shifting to the small
ring for a stop has been a good technique.

A couple of times I have thought that having 11 on the cassette would be
nice - usually when I am spun out and a racer-type blows past pedaling
strong. But it probably better to tuck at that point.

Cranks are Suntour XCD with TA rings.

Dan






On Thu, Aug 14, 2014 at 10:28 AM, Jayme Frye  wrote:

> I'm very fond of a Wide-Low arrangement and run a 40-26 chainring with a
> 12-27. I have also experimented with 13-28 and 11-25 and have found the
> 12-27 is a good fit for me (over 40 crowd), the terrain I ride (rolling
> gravel roads of the Midwest) and the people I ride with (non racers). I'm
> able to push the big ring 80% of the time even on the rollers and generally
> only need the bailout when I get deep into 100+ mile day or the grade
> and/or lack of traction require it.
> Cheers
> Jayme Frye
>
> On Thursday, August 14, 2014 12:06:27 AM UTC-5, lungimsam wrote:
>
>> Where are you supposed to cruise on your front rings and rear cassette if
>> you have a cc? In the big ring while in the middle of the cassette?
>>
>> If so, then according to the Sheldon calculator, based on my cruising
>> area of my XD2 triple/9-speed cassette setup's gear inches, I would need a
>> 30/42 compact crankset to cruise in the middle area of the big ring of a cc
>> and then use the 30 ring for me little gears. Staying in the big one would
>> minimize front shifting, too. I don't need more than 100 inches, so 42 x 11
>> would be fine as my big inches combo. I don't think I would spin out of it.
>>
>> Is this how I should do it? Just wundrin' if I ever want to give it a
>> try. I had a used bike once with a 34-50/ 12-28 (I think)  that didn't work
>> well because I had to live on the small ring, and still didn't have
>> anything small enough for the steep stuff.
>>
>> Where do you cruise in your cc setup?
>>
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[RBW] Noodles to Albastache stem length?

[Mike]

I haven't been following this list too closely over the past year so 
forgive me if this topic is redundant. I'm thinking of giving the 
Albastache bars a try on my LHT. I have plenty of steerer tube so there's 
no issue with getting the bars high enough. What I am curious about is stem 
length. I know with the old mustache bars it was recommended to go about 
2cm shorter than you would with drop bars. What's the recommendation with 
the Albastaches? 

Thanks,
mike

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[RBW] Re: New build: Soma GR, and a question

['jinxed' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I think your derailleur should work without issue, but if it's not shifting 
at all then there must be some issue with the set up. I did notice a couple 
things...

I see your downtube cable guides are mounted backwards/upside down. The 
little bullet adjusters hang down from the stops. They just need to switch 
sides. That shouldn't impede the cable though. It also seems like both your 
limit screws are pretty far out, so I dont think you have it locked into a 
short range of motion.

My first thought is to be sure the cable is not accidentally pinched in the 
bottom bracket guide. Some have a small plate and screw to hold them on and 
I've had my cables get crimped in there. Along those same lines, trace the 
entire cable to be sure it's free. To check, just unbolt the cable from the 
derailleur and while pulling it taut with one hand, move your shift lever 
with the other. Also not a bad idea to manually pivot the FD to be sure 
it's not bound up.

The other thing I noticed was how the cable was routed into the pinch bolt. 
It seems minor, but try running it down through the indent then wrap the 
cable end under the bolt towards the non drive side. This picture shows the 
indent pretty well: 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/23646261@N03/14725333997/in/set-72157646439942592/

Another thing I've done and driven myself crazy with, is not having the 
front shifter all the way down before I clamp the cable. When I get FD 
issues, I usually just unbolt the cable and start from scratch. Check my 
lever, check FD height/position, check inner limit screw, then clamp the 
cable, slowly shift up to big ring and set outer limit screw, then shift 
back and forth to be sure all's well.

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Re: [RBW] The Rivendell Bike Weight Thread

[Ryan]

The custom one is my favourite.Think I might have asked you a long time ago 
what colours yours is, and I think you told me yellow. My 2001 Riv Road is 
Harvest Gold. In certain light it looks like a dark yellow,other light more 
of a greeny mustardy colour like curry powder . One day I'll weigh it. One 
day I may even photograph it, except that it's worthy of the photographic 
talents of others on this list.
 
One thing that I've noticed about Rivs, though, is that they seem to ride 
lighter than the avoirdupois would suggest
On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 5:33:02 PM UTC-5, spru...@gmail.com wrote:

> A tale of two rivies, two large rivies. One is set up as a sport touring 
> bike for pleasure rides. The other is a work horse that I use for commuting.
>
> 1. 26 pounds. Custom frame, 65cm. Set up with XTR M900 drive train and 
> hubs. Paul braze-on Racer brakes. Nitto lugged stem and seat post. 48cm 
> Noodles. Schwalbe Marathon Supremes. Mostly as seen here:
> http://faculty.cord.edu/sprunger/bikes/riv1334/riv-fullb.jpg
>
> 2. 41 pounds. Bombadil with parallel top tubes, 60cm. Phil Wood hubs. 
> Suntour XC Pro drive train and brakes. Bosco bullmoose bars. Nitto lugged 
> post. Big Apples. Rear Nitto big rack. Front Platrack with basket. Steel 
> fenders. Double-leg kickstand. Mostly as seen here:
> http://faculty.cord.edu/sprunger/bikes/bombadil/bomb-513.jpg
>
> This has been an interesting thread. Thanks to everyone for getting out 
> the scales.
>
> David Sprunger
> Fargo, ND
>
>
>
> On Sun, Aug 3, 2014 at 3:04 PM, lungimsam  > wrote:
>
>> Since there has been curiosity about peoples' complete bikes' and/or 
>> frames' weights, I figured it would be fun to reveal how much our Rivbikes 
>> weigh.
>>  
>> Would be informative to know:
>> 1. Model
>> 2. Framesize
>> 3. Weight of complete build, or your frameset. 
>> (Including fenders/bottlecages/racks/lights/bells is ok since 
>> dismantle-ization would be unfair to expect of a complete build. But no 
>> bags/bottles on board, please).
>> 4. Build list, if you feel up to all that typing. Would be fun to see 
>> what everyone is hanging on their Rivs anyway. But that is a lot to ask and 
>> not expected.
>>  
>> I would start, but I have to go home and weight the bikes first.
>> So I will try to report back soon with my Sam and Bleriot weights.
>>  
>> And if you guys feel strongly about this being inappropriate for 
>> Riv-culture, please delete the thread, but don't run me outta the forum on 
>> a rail. This is all intended in good fun and info-purposes.
>>  
>>
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>

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Re: [RBW] Attn: Big mileage riders

[Mike]

 I didn't lose any fillings due to their lack of subtleness. Subtle tires 
are okay and certainly have their place but there's not a deal breaker for 
a good time randonneuring (pun intended). 

>
> --mike
>

Oops. Bad typo there. Replace subtleness and subtle with suppleness and 
supple respectively.  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Recommend all silver triple FD for Bleriot build please.

[Steve Palincsar]

On 08/14/2014 05:02 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:

...including some for "Trible" chainrings.  That's nice.


You mean these guys?



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHTs7zzharg

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell has let me down.

[lungimsam]

>
> dougP, what's that black strap attached to the dog's neck?
>
I'd think it was a collar, but it is pulled up so tight around the head. 

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell has let me down.

['Mojo' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Oh my do I love this thread. The beginning was painful bit the ending is 
insane. You all are good community.  Reason number 247 I love riding Rivendells.

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Re: [RBW] Attn: Big mileage riders

[Mike]

>
>
>
> I and other Randonneurs/Randonneuses ride big mileage on our Rivendells, 
> but I personally am an adherent of the Jan Heine school of thought when it 
> comes to tires and I don't think I would like to ride a Schwalbe Marathon.
>

I've used Paselas, JB greens & blues, T-serves, Marathon Supremes and 
standard Marathons for brevets. The worst of the bunch was probably the 
Jack Brown Blues. I used 700x32 standard Marathons on two 600ks, both of 
which included a lot of rain and a lot of riding on hwy shoulders. I just 
didn't want to be changing flats at 11pm at night in the rain. I used 
T-serves for a 1200k. They were fine too. I didn't lose any fillings due to 
their lack of subtleness. Subtle tires are okay and certainly have their 
place but there's not a deal breaker for a good time randonneuring (pun 
intended). 

--mike

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[RBW] Re: Recommend all silver triple FD for Bleriot build please.

[Bill Lindsay]

Ha!  We posted at the same time.  Maybe they meant "Tribal"

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 2:00:34 PM UTC-7, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro 
wrote:
>
> They even make some that are self-reproducing!  Obviously, "trible" is a 
> misspelling of "tribbel."
>
> On Thursday, August 14, 2014 4:55:45 PM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:
>>
>>  Look! microshift makes a few 9 and 8 speed silver front derailers:
>> http://www.microshift.com.tw/road_fd.html
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell has let me down.

[Ryan]

Well my Basil (Construction Pumpkin with a cat head ...I'm exagerrating a 
little) would seriously compromise my bikes' handling:) Anyway, she's a 
little beauty
On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 5:07:47 PM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> she actually did when she was a kitten - in fact, we took her everywhere, 
> but she developed motion sickness as she grew up, so we still travel some 
> with her, but no more big adventures.  
>
>
>
> 
>
> 
>   
>
>   
>
>
> 
>
> 
>  
> 
>
>
> 
>
> 
> she's an Abyssinian, in her 3rd year and barely 7lbs - really a beautiful 
> girl.  
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 4:16:01 PM UTC-5, Ryan wrote:
>>
>> Don't tell me your cat goes for rides with you! Does she/he?  Lovely cat
>> On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 8:07:31 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:
>>>
>>> I've always worried about my cat scratching-post-ing my tires, though we 
>>> seem to have an agreement
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 7:45:43 AM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 My dog ate my Hunqapillar! Grin.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

>>>

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[RBW] Re: Recommend all silver triple FD for Bleriot build please.

[Bill Lindsay]

...including some for "Trible" chainrings.  That's nice.

I gotta get me one of those green ones.  That's HOT

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 1:55:45 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:
>
>  Look! microshift makes a few 9 and 8 speed silver front derailers:
> http://www.microshift.com.tw/road_fd.html
>

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[RBW] Re: Recommend all silver triple FD for Bleriot build please.

[Andrew Marchant-Shapiro]

They even make some that are self-reproducing!  Obviously, "trible" is a 
misspelling of "tribbel."

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 4:55:45 PM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:
>
>  Look! microshift makes a few 9 and 8 speed silver front derailers:
> http://www.microshift.com.tw/road_fd.html
>

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[RBW] Re: Recommend all silver triple FD for Bleriot build please.

[lungimsam]

 Look! microshift makes a few 9 and 8 speed silver front derailers:
http://www.microshift.com.tw/road_fd.html

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Re: [RBW] Re: Flat bar Roadeo

[Joe Bunik]

;-) I got hooked on that as well, and even one better - collecting
handlebars while touring in Europe!!!

I think it was in Hungary (or the Netherlands???) where I first
stumbled into a bike-coop years ago, and noticed that the bucket o'
bars was just a bit juicier than what we have domestically. I recall
lugging around multiple pairs of townie bars for the rest of that
trip.

Years later, this would culminate in my "suspect" bags being
confiscated by French airport security at CDG. What a price to pay for
a set Belleri porteur bars!

=- Joe Bunik
who still hasn't learned his lesson in
Walnut Creek, CA


On 8/14/14, dougP  wrote:
> My wife & I toured in central Europe last fall for a month.  The only drop
> bars we saw were on racing bikes, ridden by people in full racing outfits,
> carrying nothing.  Flat bars with bar end extensions were most common,
> followed by trekking bars (usually on a touring bike with chubby tires &
> racks).  Our rentals had flat bars & were quite comfortable.  This got me
> started on my latest obsession:  collecting handlebars.  Everyone needs a
> hobby.
>
> dougP
>
> On Thursday, August 14, 2014 6:14:20 AM UTC-7, Matthew J wrote:
>>
>> > A rodeo with bars like this is a town bike.
>>
>> Maybe for some.  Certainly not for all.  While more common overseas than
>> in the U.S., there are many people more than happy doing their long
>> distance pleasure riding with flat bars.
>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Shipping, Knickers, and Newbaums. Some observation.

[Steve Palincsar]

On 08/14/2014 03:46 PM, Philip Williamson wrote:
Agreed on USPS - I love them. I especially love walking my dog there 
in the middle of the night to do my post office errands.
The crazy pension funding stipulation seems designed expressly to 
undermine the Post Office in order to privatize it. It's is a federal 
branch, established in the Constitution, in order for us to have a 
civilization. There's as much reason to expect it to "pay for itself" 
as there is to expect the Army to pay for itself.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plunder


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Re: [RBW] Re: Shipping, Knickers, and Newbaums. Some observation.

[Philip Williamson]

Agreed on USPS - I love them. I especially love walking my dog there in the 
middle of the night to do my post office errands. 
The crazy pension funding stipulation seems designed expressly to undermine 
the Post Office in order to privatize it. It's is a federal branch, 
established in the Constitution, in order for us to have a civilization. 
There's as much reason to expect it to "pay for itself" as there is to 
expect the Army to pay for itself. 

Philip
www.biketinker.com

On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 7:49:48 PM UTC-7, Peter M wrote:
>
> I also prefer USPS, the shipping is just a fast nowadays, you get tracking 
> and its cheaper. Oh, and they wouldn't need zero interest loans if they 
> weren't the only federal agency required to fully fund an employee's 
> pension when they are hired. Find me a company that can operate in the 
> black under that condition. 
>
>
> On Wed, Aug 13, 2014 at 9:16 PM, Matthew J  > wrote:
>
>> I use USPS when I sell parts.  I like them a lot.  Less expensive, fast, 
>> reliable, and their new website is real easy to use.
>>
>> Living in an urban multi-family building without a doorman, USPS is the 
>> only carrier that delivers when I am not there (they have special keys that 
>> open the common door and drop the box in front of my apartment door).  
>>
>> UPS means I have to arrange deliveries at work.  Maybe I am old fashioned 
>> but I always feel weird getting personal items at work.
>>
>> For a unique shipper like Riv, it is tolerable.  If the UPS only vendor 
>> has a real competitor that ships USPS I always go with the USPS.
>>
>>
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>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Un-racer compact crankset question.

[Ron Mc]

I think Patrick nailed it - good chainline is good for a lot of reasons - 
one of them is just peace and quiet.  

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 2:26:01 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I always set up my drivetrains so that the cruising cruising cogs are as 
> much as possible lined up with the cruising ring. Since I also like close 
> steps in the cruising range, I sometimes give up high and low gears to 
> achieve this, but that's fine with me. When my cruising gear was the outer 
> 46 of a 46/36/24 triple and the middle cog (20) of a 16-34 7, I moved the 
> crankset inward a bit and felt comfortable using the 46 with all 7 cogs. (I 
> later swapped the triple for a 38/24, putting the 38 in the middle position 
> and moving the bb back outward. Now a 13-27 9 speed.)
>
> This obsession with a straight chain directly contradicts what I think is, 
> in reality, a good rule of thumb: if your chain is the right length, and, 
> when you backpedal fast, your chain doesn't slip off the cog or ring, and 
> doesn't make odd noises, you are probably safe at least for moderate use.
>
> Patrick "consistency etc" Moore
>
> On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 10:06:27 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:
>
>> Where are you supposed to cruise on your front rings and rear cassette if 
>> you have a cc? In the big ring while in the middle of the cassette?
>>
>> If so, then according to the Sheldon calculator, based on my cruising 
>> area of my XD2 triple/9-speed cassette setup's gear inches, I would need a 
>> 30/42 compact crankset to cruise in the middle area of the big ring of a cc 
>> and then use the 30 ring for me little gears. Staying in the big one would 
>> minimize front shifting, too. I don't need more than 100 inches, so 42 x 11 
>> would be fine as my big inches combo. I don't think I would spin out of it.
>>
>> Is this how I should do it? Just wundrin' if I ever want to give it a 
>> try. I had a used bike once with a 34-50/ 12-28 (I think)  that didn't work 
>> well because I had to live on the small ring, and still didn't have 
>> anything small enough for the steep stuff.
>>
>> Where do you cruise in your cc setup?
>>
>  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Un-racer compact crankset question.

[Patrick Moore]

I always set up my drivetrains so that the cruising cruising cogs are as
much as possible lined up with the cruising ring. Since I also like close
steps in the cruising range, I sometimes give up high and low gears to
achieve this, but that's fine with me. When my cruising gear was the outer
46 of a 46/36/24 triple and the middle cog (20) of a 16-34 7, I moved the
crankset inward a bit and felt comfortable using the 46 with all 7 cogs. (I
later swapped the triple for a 38/24, putting the 38 in the middle position
and moving the bb back outward. Now a 13-27 9 speed.)

This obsession with a straight chain directly contradicts what I think is,
in reality, a good rule of thumb: if your chain is the right length, and,
when you backpedal fast, your chain doesn't slip off the cog or ring, and
doesn't make odd noises, you are probably safe at least for moderate use.

Patrick "consistency etc" Moore

On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 10:06:27 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:

> Where are you supposed to cruise on your front rings and rear cassette if
> you have a cc? In the big ring while in the middle of the cassette?
>
> If so, then according to the Sheldon calculator, based on my cruising area
> of my XD2 triple/9-speed cassette setup's gear inches, I would need a 30/42
> compact crankset to cruise in the middle area of the big ring of a cc and
> then use the 30 ring for me little gears. Staying in the big one would
> minimize front shifting, too. I don't need more than 100 inches, so 42 x 11
> would be fine as my big inches combo. I don't think I would spin out of it.
>
> Is this how I should do it? Just wundrin' if I ever want to give it a try.
> I had a used bike once with a 34-50/ 12-28 (I think)  that didn't work well
> because I had to live on the small ring, and still didn't have anything
> small enough for the steep stuff.
>
> Where do you cruise in your cc setup?
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Green Nelson Longflap, large, expandable saddle wedge

[Patrick Moore]

Forgot to say that the Topeak is as new.


On Thu, Aug 14, 2014 at 1:13 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> 1. Green Longflap, drawstring model, moderate signs of use, the dowel is a
> replacement; $85 shipped Priority CONUS. (Will ship elsewhere for actual
> shipping cost.)
>
> 2. Large Topeak saddle wedge, circumferential zipper unzips to expand to
> 1.25% or so of non-expanded size. When expanded easily accommodates small
> water bottle plus usual gear. $26 shipped Priority CONUS. (Elsewhere for
> actual shipping cost.)
>
> --
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> Patrick Moore
> Albuquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>
> *
>   * "Where you come from is gone, where you thought you were going to
> never was there, and where you are is no good unless you can get away from
> it. Where is there a place for you to be? No place.*
> * "Nothing outside you can give you any place," he said. "You needn't to
> look at the sky because it's not going to open up and show no place behind
> it. You needn't to search for any hole in the ground to look through into
> somewhere else. You can't go neither forwards nor backwards into your
> daddy's time nor your children's if you have them. In yourself right now is
> all the place you've got. If there was any Fall, look there, if there was
> any Redemption, look there, and if you expect any Judgment, look there,
> because they all three will have to be in your time and your body and where
> in your time and your body can they be?*
>  * "Where in your time and your body has Jesus redeemed you?" he cried.
> "Show me where because I don't see the place. If there was a place where
> Jesus had redeemed you that would be the place for you to be, but which of
> you can find it?” -- *Flannery O'Connor,* Wise Blood  *
>



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Albuquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten

*
  * "Where you come from is gone, where you thought you were going to never
was there, and where you are is no good unless you can get away from it.
Where is there a place for you to be? No place.*
* "Nothing outside you can give you any place," he said. "You needn't to
look at the sky because it's not going to open up and show no place behind
it. You needn't to search for any hole in the ground to look through into
somewhere else. You can't go neither forwards nor backwards into your
daddy's time nor your children's if you have them. In yourself right now is
all the place you've got. If there was any Fall, look there, if there was
any Redemption, look there, and if you expect any Judgment, look there,
because they all three will have to be in your time and your body and where
in your time and your body can they be?*
* "Where in your time and your body has Jesus redeemed you?" he cried.
"Show me where because I don't see the place. If there was a place where
Jesus had redeemed you that would be the place for you to be, but which of
you can find it?” -- *Flannery O'Connor,* Wise Blood  *

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RE: [RBW] Attn: Big mileage riders

[Allingham II, Thomas J]

Or, Bill,  you could sell all those superseded tires (the grass is always 
greener) to people who don’t share your compulsive search for the perfect tire. 
 ;-)  But I won’t be a buyer – I’m on the same quest.

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Bill Lindsay
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2014 1:48 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Attn: Big mileage riders

The rude paraphrase to that Jan Heine sentiment would be something like:

"Those tires may be miserable to ride on, but at least they last a really long 
time, so the misery is extended."

The far end of the "stout tire" spectrum is solid rubber tires.  Solid rubber 
tires may last for 30,000 miles or more, but nobody would want to ride them.  
The trade off between "stout-ness" and "supple-ness" is unique for every rider 
on every bike.  I love buying and swapping tires, so my biggest frustration is 
that they don't wear out fast enough.  My poor tire box is overflowing, and 
there are at least a half-dozen models I'm dying to try out.  It reverts me to 
the absurd situation of putting the tires I dislike the most on the bike I ride 
the most so I can wear them out and finally get rid of them.  Does that make me 
crazy?  Or stupid?  Please don't answer..:-/

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 10:29:34 AM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:
This thread might be more accurately titled with something along the lines of 
"for those who like to get big mileage out of their tires"

I and other Randonneurs/Randonneuses ride big mileage on our Rivendells, but I 
personally am an adherent of the Jan Heine school of thought when it comes to 
tires and I don't think I would like to ride a Schwalbe Marathon.

Now for my around town bike, those tires might be a good idea, but I have yet 
to wear out the Pasela TGs that I installed on it shortly after I acquired it.

On Wed, Aug 13, 2014 at 3:18 PM, dougP > wrote:
The Blug has some interesting photos of a Schwalbe Marathon that went 14,000 
miles.  There's no tread left on the center, so it pretty much earned its keep 
a while back, IMHO.  BUT, at the end of story, Rivendell says "Anybody who buys 
a Marathon Plus from us and rides it 14,000 miles gets a free replacement."  
Save those proofs-of-purchase!

I don't doubt the mileage.  I got 11,000 miles out of a Supreme on the front on 
my Atlantis.  It looked better than the tire in the photo when I changed it.  I 
don't try to squeeze the last mile out of my tires, especially the front.  Tire 
life is highly variable, depending on width, load such as rider weight & use, 
nice pavement vs off-road, etc.

So if you pile on the miles, now you know the best source for tires.

dougP
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RE: [RBW] Attn: Big mileage riders

[Allingham II, Thomas J]

The last sentence of Steve p's post leaves me on what I like to think of as 
"joke overload"...

-Original Message-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Steve Palincsar
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2014 2:54 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Attn: Big mileage riders

On 08/14/2014 01:48 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:
> The rude paraphrase to that Jan Heine sentiment would be something like:
>
> "Those tires may be miserable to ride on, but at least they last a 
> really long time, so the misery is extended."
>
> The far end of the "stout tire" spectrum is solid rubber tires.  Solid 
> rubber tires may last for 30,000 miles or more, but nobody would want 
> to ride them.  The trade off between "stout-ness" and "supple-ness" is 
> unique for every rider on every bike.  I love buying and swapping 
> tires, so my biggest frustration is that they don't wear out fast 
> enough.  My poor tire box is overflowing, and there are at least a 
> half-dozen models I'm dying to try out.  It reverts me to the absurd 
> situation of putting the tires I dislike the most on the bike I ride 
> the most so I can wear them out and finally get rid of them.  Does 
> that make me crazy?  Or stupid?  Please don't answer..:-/

I once made the mistake of buying a set of Specialized Nimbus Armadillo tires 
for my commuter.  I'd used the Nimbus for some years and found it quite 
satisfactory, but when they wore out the replacement model was an "Armadillo."  
I had no idea what that meant when I ordered the tires.  
In 2 weeks I removed those tires and throw them in the trash.   Your 
trash can awaits your pleasure...


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Re: [RBW] Attn: Big mileage riders

[Steve Palincsar]

On 08/14/2014 01:48 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:

The rude paraphrase to that Jan Heine sentiment would be something like:

"Those tires may be miserable to ride on, but at least they last a 
really long time, so the misery is extended."


The far end of the "stout tire" spectrum is solid rubber tires.  Solid 
rubber tires may last for 30,000 miles or more, but nobody would want 
to ride them.  The trade off between "stout-ness" and "supple-ness" is 
unique for every rider on every bike.  I love buying and swapping 
tires, so my biggest frustration is that they don't wear out fast 
enough.  My poor tire box is overflowing, and there are at least a 
half-dozen models I'm dying to try out.  It reverts me to the absurd 
situation of putting the tires I dislike the most on the bike I ride 
the most so I can wear them out and finally get rid of them.  Does 
that make me crazy?  Or stupid?  Please don't answer..:-/


I once made the mistake of buying a set of Specialized Nimbus Armadillo 
tires for my commuter.  I'd used the Nimbus for some years and found it 
quite satisfactory, but when they wore out the replacement model was an 
"Armadillo."  I had no idea what that meant when I ordered the tires.  
In 2 weeks I removed those tires and throw them in the trash.   Your 
trash can awaits your pleasure...



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[RBW] Re: fs: Rivendell Atlantis ~ 56cm - frame/fork/Chris King headset/bottom bracket

[Eric]

SOLD!

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[RBW] Ram sighting in College Park, MD today!!

[lungimsam]

Was at CPBikes today and saw a big sized blue Ram on the repair stand! Rivish 
build with beaus aged honey saddle. Was it yours?

This was my first time seeing a real Ram outside of pics.

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[RBW] Re: New build: Soma GR, and a question

[Bill Lindsay]

Measure your chainline.  You probably have a roadish chainline, which may 
explain why your mountain front der can't drop you to the granny.  That's 
problem #1

If you can't pull up to the big ring either, even with the limits all the 
way out, then that indicates your shifters don't pull enough cable for that 
front der.  That's problem #2

If those are your only two problems, then replacing the front der should 
solve them both.  A road triple front der should work with a roadish 
chainline.  A shorter lever arm where the cable attaches requires less 
cable pull to make it move.  



On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 9:56:53 PM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
> Well Grant would probably not approve of the amount of seat post showing, 
> but, it seems to work pretty good for me, and I am comfortable riding it. 
>  Maybe would like a tad more elevation to the stem, but in practice riding 
> it around I don't notice.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/gp/23646261@N03/8p64BN/
>
> The question I have is, is that FD going to work for me?  I am thinking 
> no, because the loop around the post halves the amount of cable pull 
> available to the front shifter.  I can't get it to move nearly as much as I 
> need.  The specs said top pull or bottom pull, but really, I think it would 
> be better with top pull.  Too bad.  I bought a used IRD Alpina the other 
> day, I'm going to use that on the Rivendell and try the FD on the Rivendell 
> on my Soma GR.
> -- 
> Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 
>

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Re: [RBW] Attn: Big mileage riders

[Bill Lindsay]

Totally.  I have uberstout Force Field Fatty Rumpkins on my "touring bike", 
and paper thin ubersupple Pari-Motos on the brevet bike, and lots of things 
in-between on the rest of the fleet.  

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 10:59:32 AM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
> I agree that tires are personal to each rider, I was just trying to point 
> out that not all people who ride a lot of miles like to ride tires like the 
> Marathon.
>
> In my case for my uses, the Pari-Motos are too fragile, the Compass tires 
> are about right, and the Marathons are too heavy.  But to each his or her 
> own.
>
> There's also varied use cases.  If I was going on a long tour say across 
> the US, I might consider a tire like the Marathon because the availability 
> of suitable replacement tires in non-mainstream sizes is not likely to be 
> very good.  Therefore I would want a tire that lasts as long as possible, 
> preferably for the entire trip.
> On Aug 14, 2014 10:48 AM, "Bill Lindsay" > 
> wrote:
>
>> The rude paraphrase to that Jan Heine sentiment would be something like:
>>
>> "Those tires may be miserable to ride on, but at least they last a really 
>> long time, so the misery is extended."
>>
>> The far end of the "stout tire" spectrum is solid rubber tires.  Solid 
>> rubber tires may last for 30,000 miles or more, but nobody would want to 
>> ride them.  The trade off between "stout-ness" and "supple-ness" is unique 
>> for every rider on every bike.  I love buying and swapping tires, so my 
>> biggest frustration is that they don't wear out fast enough.  My poor tire 
>> box is overflowing, and there are at least a half-dozen models I'm dying to 
>> try out.  It reverts me to the absurd situation of putting the tires I 
>> dislike the most on the bike I ride the most so I can wear them out and 
>> finally get rid of them.  Does that make me crazy?  Or stupid?  Please 
>> don't answer..:-/
>>
>> On Thursday, August 14, 2014 10:29:34 AM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:
>>>
>>> This thread might be more accurately titled with something along the 
>>> lines of "for those who like to get big mileage out of their tires"
>>>
>>> I and other Randonneurs/Randonneuses ride big mileage on our Rivendells, 
>>> but I personally am an adherent of the Jan Heine school of thought when it 
>>> comes to tires and I don't think I would like to ride a Schwalbe Marathon.
>>>
>>> Now for my around town bike, those tires might be a good idea, but I 
>>> have yet to wear out the Pasela TGs that I installed on it shortly after I 
>>> acquired it.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Aug 13, 2014 at 3:18 PM, dougP  wrote:
>>>
 The Blug has some interesting photos of a Schwalbe Marathon that went 
 14,000 miles.  There's no tread left on the center, so it pretty much 
 earned its keep a while back, IMHO.  BUT, at the end of story, Rivendell 
 says "Anybody who buys a Marathon Plus from us and rides it 14,000 miles 
 gets a free replacement."  Save those proofs-of-purchase!  

 I don't doubt the mileage.  I got 11,000 miles out of a Supreme on the 
 front on my Atlantis.  It looked better than the tire in the photo when I 
 changed it.  I don't try to squeeze the last mile out of my tires, 
 especially the front.  Tire life is highly variable, depending on width, 
 load such as rider weight & use, nice pavement vs off-road, etc.  

 So if you pile on the miles, now you know the best source for tires.  

 dougP

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>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Attn: Big mileage riders

[Jim Bronson]

I agree that tires are personal to each rider, I was just trying to point
out that not all people who ride a lot of miles like to ride tires like the
Marathon.

In my case for my uses, the Pari-Motos are too fragile, the Compass tires
are about right, and the Marathons are too heavy.  But to each his or her
own.

There's also varied use cases.  If I was going on a long tour say across
the US, I might consider a tire like the Marathon because the availability
of suitable replacement tires in non-mainstream sizes is not likely to be
very good.  Therefore I would want a tire that lasts as long as possible,
preferably for the entire trip.
On Aug 14, 2014 10:48 AM, "Bill Lindsay"  wrote:

> The rude paraphrase to that Jan Heine sentiment would be something like:
>
> "Those tires may be miserable to ride on, but at least they last a really
> long time, so the misery is extended."
>
> The far end of the "stout tire" spectrum is solid rubber tires.  Solid
> rubber tires may last for 30,000 miles or more, but nobody would want to
> ride them.  The trade off between "stout-ness" and "supple-ness" is unique
> for every rider on every bike.  I love buying and swapping tires, so my
> biggest frustration is that they don't wear out fast enough.  My poor tire
> box is overflowing, and there are at least a half-dozen models I'm dying to
> try out.  It reverts me to the absurd situation of putting the tires I
> dislike the most on the bike I ride the most so I can wear them out and
> finally get rid of them.  Does that make me crazy?  Or stupid?  Please
> don't answer..:-/
>
> On Thursday, August 14, 2014 10:29:34 AM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:
>>
>> This thread might be more accurately titled with something along the
>> lines of "for those who like to get big mileage out of their tires"
>>
>> I and other Randonneurs/Randonneuses ride big mileage on our Rivendells,
>> but I personally am an adherent of the Jan Heine school of thought when it
>> comes to tires and I don't think I would like to ride a Schwalbe Marathon.
>>
>> Now for my around town bike, those tires might be a good idea, but I have
>> yet to wear out the Pasela TGs that I installed on it shortly after I
>> acquired it.
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Aug 13, 2014 at 3:18 PM, dougP  wrote:
>>
>>> The Blug has some interesting photos of a Schwalbe Marathon that went
>>> 14,000 miles.  There's no tread left on the center, so it pretty much
>>> earned its keep a while back, IMHO.  BUT, at the end of story, Rivendell
>>> says "Anybody who buys a Marathon Plus from us and rides it 14,000 miles
>>> gets a free replacement."  Save those proofs-of-purchase!
>>>
>>> I don't doubt the mileage.  I got 11,000 miles out of a Supreme on the
>>> front on my Atlantis.  It looked better than the tire in the photo when I
>>> changed it.  I don't try to squeeze the last mile out of my tires,
>>> especially the front.  Tire life is highly variable, depending on width,
>>> load such as rider weight & use, nice pavement vs off-road, etc.
>>>
>>> So if you pile on the miles, now you know the best source for tires.
>>>
>>> dougP
>>>
>>> --
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>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!
>>
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[RBW] Re: [650B] Re: New build: Soma GR, and a question

[Jim Bronson]

Standover is roughly 33.75 with Loup Loup tires, measured just forward of
the bottom bracket.

Saddle height from BB spindle is roughly 34" measured along ST axis.  From
the floor about 43".

I added some photos to the album in the original post with the Soma side by
side with my Rivendell.  Clearly the Rivendell is more pleasing to the eye,
but the rider interface points are pretty similar.

I need a Tallux to get the Soma handlebars up to the exact height of the
Rivendell.  The Technomic is already at the minimum insertion point.  But I
think it's ok the way it is when i ride it, so that's not a change i am
planning on making.
On Aug 14, 2014 9:01 AM, "Kieran Joyes"  wrote:

> Hey Jim,
>
> What's the stand-over height on your bike? How about your saddle height?
>
> KJ
>
>
> On Thursday, August 14, 2014 12:56:50 AM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:
>>
>> Well Grant would probably not approve of the amount of seat post showing,
>> but, it seems to work pretty good for me, and I am comfortable riding it.
>>  Maybe would like a tad more elevation to the stem, but in practice riding
>> it around I don't notice.
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/gp/23646261@N03/8p64BN/
>>
>> The question I have is, is that FD going to work for me?  I am thinking
>> no, because the loop around the post halves the amount of cable pull
>> available to the front shifter.  I can't get it to move nearly as much as I
>> need.  The specs said top pull or bottom pull, but really, I think it would
>> be better with top pull.  Too bad.  I bought a used IRD Alpina the other
>> day, I'm going to use that on the Rivendell and try the FD on the Rivendell
>> on my Soma GR.
>> --
>> Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!
>>
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Re: [RBW] Attn: Big mileage riders

[Bill Lindsay]

The rude paraphrase to that Jan Heine sentiment would be something like:

"Those tires may be miserable to ride on, but at least they last a really 
long time, so the misery is extended."

The far end of the "stout tire" spectrum is solid rubber tires.  Solid 
rubber tires may last for 30,000 miles or more, but nobody would want to 
ride them.  The trade off between "stout-ness" and "supple-ness" is unique 
for every rider on every bike.  I love buying and swapping tires, so my 
biggest frustration is that they don't wear out fast enough.  My poor tire 
box is overflowing, and there are at least a half-dozen models I'm dying to 
try out.  It reverts me to the absurd situation of putting the tires I 
dislike the most on the bike I ride the most so I can wear them out and 
finally get rid of them.  Does that make me crazy?  Or stupid?  Please 
don't answer..:-/

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 10:29:34 AM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
> This thread might be more accurately titled with something along the lines 
> of "for those who like to get big mileage out of their tires"
>
> I and other Randonneurs/Randonneuses ride big mileage on our Rivendells, 
> but I personally am an adherent of the Jan Heine school of thought when it 
> comes to tires and I don't think I would like to ride a Schwalbe Marathon.
>
> Now for my around town bike, those tires might be a good idea, but I have 
> yet to wear out the Pasela TGs that I installed on it shortly after I 
> acquired it.
>
>
> On Wed, Aug 13, 2014 at 3:18 PM, dougP > 
> wrote:
>
>> The Blug has some interesting photos of a Schwalbe Marathon that went 
>> 14,000 miles.  There's no tread left on the center, so it pretty much 
>> earned its keep a while back, IMHO.  BUT, at the end of story, Rivendell 
>> says "Anybody who buys a Marathon Plus from us and rides it 14,000 miles 
>> gets a free replacement."  Save those proofs-of-purchase!  
>>
>> I don't doubt the mileage.  I got 11,000 miles out of a Supreme on the 
>> front on my Atlantis.  It looked better than the tire in the photo when I 
>> changed it.  I don't try to squeeze the last mile out of my tires, 
>> especially the front.  Tire life is highly variable, depending on width, 
>> load such as rider weight & use, nice pavement vs off-road, etc.  
>>
>> So if you pile on the miles, now you know the best source for tires.  
>>
>> dougP
>>
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com .
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>> .
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>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 
>

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[RBW] Re: FS/WTT: Nitto Technomic and Moustache

[Mike K.]

Moustache bars are spoken for.

Noodles and stem are still available.

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Re: [RBW] Attn: Big mileage riders

[Jim Bronson]

This thread might be more accurately titled with something along the lines
of "for those who like to get big mileage out of their tires"

I and other Randonneurs/Randonneuses ride big mileage on our Rivendells,
but I personally am an adherent of the Jan Heine school of thought when it
comes to tires and I don't think I would like to ride a Schwalbe Marathon.

Now for my around town bike, those tires might be a good idea, but I have
yet to wear out the Pasela TGs that I installed on it shortly after I
acquired it.


On Wed, Aug 13, 2014 at 3:18 PM, dougP  wrote:

> The Blug has some interesting photos of a Schwalbe Marathon that went
> 14,000 miles.  There's no tread left on the center, so it pretty much
> earned its keep a while back, IMHO.  BUT, at the end of story, Rivendell
> says "Anybody who buys a Marathon Plus from us and rides it 14,000 miles
> gets a free replacement."  Save those proofs-of-purchase!
>
> I don't doubt the mileage.  I got 11,000 miles out of a Supreme on the
> front on my Atlantis.  It looked better than the tire in the photo when I
> changed it.  I don't try to squeeze the last mile out of my tires,
> especially the front.  Tire life is highly variable, depending on width,
> load such as rider weight & use, nice pavement vs off-road, etc.
>
> So if you pile on the miles, now you know the best source for tires.
>
> dougP
>
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[RBW] Re: Un-racer compact crankset question.

[Jayme Frye]

I'm very fond of a Wide-Low arrangement and run a 40-26 chainring with a 
12-27. I have also experimented with 13-28 and 11-25 and have found the 
12-27 is a good fit for me (over 40 crowd), the terrain I ride (rolling 
gravel roads of the Midwest) and the people I ride with (non racers). I'm 
able to push the big ring 80% of the time even on the rollers and generally 
only need the bailout when I get deep into 100+ mile day or the grade 
and/or lack of traction require it. 
Cheers
Jayme Frye

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 12:06:27 AM UTC-5, lungimsam wrote:
>
> Where are you supposed to cruise on your front rings and rear cassette if 
> you have a cc? In the big ring while in the middle of the cassette?
>
> If so, then according to the Sheldon calculator, based on my cruising area 
> of my XD2 triple/9-speed cassette setup's gear inches, I would need a 30/42 
> compact crankset to cruise in the middle area of the big ring of a cc and 
> then use the 30 ring for me little gears. Staying in the big one would 
> minimize front shifting, too. I don't need more than 100 inches, so 42 x 11 
> would be fine as my big inches combo. I don't think I would spin out of it.
>
> Is this how I should do it? Just wundrin' if I ever want to give it a try. 
> I had a used bike once with a 34-50/ 12-28 (I think)  that didn't work well 
> because I had to live on the small ring, and still didn't have anything 
> small enough for the steep stuff.
>
> Where do you cruise in your cc setup?
>

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[RBW] Re: FS Freewheels Galore & some cassettes PDX

[Brian Campbell]

Any Ultra spaced 7 speed freewheels?
 
 

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell has let me down.

[dougP]

It can be done.  
http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/page/?o=Sh&page_id=74673&v=dL

[image: Click here for a larger version of the picture]

On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 9:14:01 AM UTC-7, hsmitham wrote:
>
> I don't know about sea water or Atlantis across her intestines but now she 
> wants to tour!
>
> ~Hugh
>
> On Tuesday, August 12, 2014 5:08:19 PM UTC-7, dougP wrote:
>>
>> "The dog ate my decals."  Next time she gets an X-ray, it'll say 
>> "Atlantis" on her intestines.  
>>
>> dougP
>>
>> On Tuesday, August 12, 2014 12:12:23 PM UTC-7, hsmitham wrote:
>>>
>>> Clayton,
>>>
>>> I was a bit surprised that you had this situation...as I read though the 
>>> thread I expected to see that Riv made it right as they did. It has been my 
>>> experience that Riv has the best customer service bar none. Customer 
>>> service like it used to be from most every retailer of the past. Case in 
>>> point when I was rehabbing my 03' Atlantis I ordered a new set of decals, 
>>> when they were delivered though our door slot the dog chewed them up! I 
>>> called Riv explained the situation and they immediately sent new ones 
>>> packaged differently so the Dachshund couldn't sink her teeth in .This was 
>>> clearly not Riv's fault but they took care of me. I figure even Riv has a 
>>> drop the ball moment but in  every case I've heard they make it right.
>>>
>>> They have made a life long customer of me.
>>>
>>> ~Hugh
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, August 12, 2014 11:13:37 AM UTC-7, Clayton wrote:

 *Brian from Riv has sent me new stickers free of charge. Thank you 
 Rivendell. You stick by your customers and make things right. *
 *I need to say, I love my Atlantis. Honestly, it is the best all around 
 bike I have ever owned. If you are on the fence about buying a Rivendell, 
 just buy one. You won't regret it. I never have. I will no longer bitch or 
 whine. Go on about your day.*

 On Monday, August 11, 2014 5:13:57 PM UTC-7, Clayton wrote:
>
> I ordered a set of Resurrectio stickers. They sent me the "not tough 
> ones" that go under the clear coat rather than the ones I ordered which 
> were the tough ones that go over the clear coat. As I was applying the 
> seat 
> tube sticker it shattered. I contacted Riv, and they said since I had 
> already applied it they couldn't send me new ones. The problem I have is 
> that you can't tell what the stickers are as they have paper on both 
> sides 
> of the stickers. It was their fault that they sent me the wrong ones and 
> they won't fix it. Crappy customer service. I am not happy. $18.00 
> dollars 
> for stickers to start with is a little ridiculous. I will make my own 
> head 
> badge and leave all references to Rivendell off my powder coated 
> Atlantis. 
> Can you see me pout?  " I'm gonna take my ball and go home. "
>


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[RBW] Re: Flat bar Roadeo

[dougP]

My wife & I toured in central Europe last fall for a month.  The only drop 
bars we saw were on racing bikes, ridden by people in full racing outfits, 
carrying nothing.  Flat bars with bar end extensions were most common, 
followed by trekking bars (usually on a touring bike with chubby tires & 
racks).  Our rentals had flat bars & were quite comfortable.  This got me 
started on my latest obsession:  collecting handlebars.  Everyone needs a 
hobby.

dougP

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 6:14:20 AM UTC-7, Matthew J wrote:
>
> > A rodeo with bars like this is a town bike. 
>
> Maybe for some.  Certainly not for all.  While more common overseas than 
> in the U.S., there are many people more than happy doing their long 
> distance pleasure riding with flat bars.  
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Attn: Big mileage riders

[dougP]

Leaving that Marathon Supreme on the front was out of character.  Normally 
when the rear wears out, I put a new tire on the front and move the old 
front to the rear.  Rough guess is that rears wear twice as fast as fronts, 
so normally the front is in better shape.  Rear flats, while a nuisance, 
are less likely to cause crashes than flat fronts.  My experience with 
Schwalbes & flats is similar to yours, i.e., once in a long while.  

I currently have the Soma C-lines on my Atlantis for general riding.  They 
are noticeably more cushy than even the Marathon Supreme, but I doubt the 
life will be anything close.  With about 1,500 miles on them, I recently 
got my first flat. A goathead thorn was the culprit.  I've picked numerous 
goatheads out of Marathons that have not flatted.  For a tour I would 
change to Marathons.  

dougP

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 6:51:28 AM UTC-7, MobileBill wrote:
>
> Seems like a good time to note that in 19,500 miles I have worn out three 
> Schwalbe Marathons (not three sets, three tires -- the fourth tire is still 
> in service). And it's not that the tires weren't still riding fine, I just 
> got a little nervous when the undertread started peaking through. If I kept 
> the front tires on the front, rather than rotating to back, they'd easily 
> run 12,000+. So I don't quite know how to figure the mileage, but I got my 
> money's worth. 
> I am tempted to try other lighter, more flexible, and more fashionable 
> tires on my Saluki, but ... I've had three flats in 19,500 miles on regular 
> ol marathons, and  I commute on nasty roads  ... and after three thousand 
> or so miles, my Marathons have lost a lot of weight and and gained perhaps 
> a bit of flexibility, so for the next 5,000 miles I like to pretend I have 
> a reasonable facsimile of a Compass tire ... 
>
> On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 5:18:25 PM UTC-5, dougP wrote:
>>
>> The Blug has some interesting photos of a Schwalbe Marathon that went 
>> 14,000 miles.  There's no tread left on the center, so it pretty much 
>> earned its keep a while back, IMHO.  BUT, at the end of story, Rivendell 
>> says "Anybody who buys a Marathon Plus from us and rides it 14,000 miles 
>> gets a free replacement."  Save those proofs-of-purchase!  
>>
>> I don't doubt the mileage.  I got 11,000 miles out of a Supreme on the 
>> front on my Atlantis.  It looked better than the tire in the photo when I 
>> changed it.  I don't try to squeeze the last mile out of my tires, 
>> especially the front.  Tire life is highly variable, depending on width, 
>> load such as rider weight & use, nice pavement vs off-road, etc.  
>>
>> So if you pile on the miles, now you know the best source for tires.  
>>
>> dougP
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Un-racer compact crankset question.

[Andrew Marchant-Shapiro]

Appropriate, then, that I'm using a Cyclotourist-style crank (Sugino PX) 
and TA Rings!

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 11:45:55 AM UTC-4, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> Trying now not to hijack, but what you're describing Andrew fits my 
> half-steps-plus-escape Cyclotouriste triple to a tee.  I can leave the rear 
> on 16T cog and my 46/42/26T chainrings gives me 76", 70" and 54".  Start 
> off on the tiny ring, and cruise rolling hills on the half steps.  
>
> On Thursday, August 14, 2014 9:12:16 AM UTC-5, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro 
> wrote:
>>
>> What Marc Irwin said.  
>>
>> I'm using 46/30 with 11/28 (8s) and I find I spend a lot of time now in 
>> the middle gears.  I tend to front shift at stop lights now:  I shift 
>> 46->30 in one of 2 or 3 middle gears, then shift 30->46 once I start to 
>> roll.  
>>
>> This is a relatively new system for me (I previously ran a 53/39) and 
>> it's taking a little work to get out of the mindset that I was previously 
>> in.  The 30/28 really is as low a climbing gear as I can imagine for the 
>> riding I do around here (Connecticut).  And while I never, never, NEVER 
>> thought that I would use an 11t cog, 46/11 is nice to have at times (e.g., 
>> on 9% grades).
>>
>> On Thursday, August 14, 2014 8:38:08 AM UTC-4, Marc Irwin wrote:
>>>
>>> I have a 46/30x36/12 setup.  I don't think about it.  I use whatever 
>>> feels comfortable wherever I might be?
>>>
>>> Marc
>>>
>>> On Thursday, August 14, 2014 1:06:27 AM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:

 Where are you supposed to cruise on your front rings and rear cassette 
 if you have a cc? In the big ring while in the middle of the cassette?

 If so, then according to the Sheldon calculator, based on my cruising 
 area of my XD2 triple/9-speed cassette setup's gear inches, I would need a 
 30/42 compact crankset to cruise in the middle area of the big ring of a 
 cc 
 and then use the 30 ring for me little gears. Staying in the big one would 
 minimize front shifting, too. I don't need more than 100 inches, so 42 x 
 11 
 would be fine as my big inches combo. I don't think I would spin out of it.

 Is this how I should do it? Just wundrin' if I ever want to give it a 
 try. I had a used bike once with a 34-50/ 12-28 (I think)  that didn't 
 work 
 well because I had to live on the small ring, and still didn't have 
 anything small enough for the steep stuff.

 Where do you cruise in your cc setup?

>>>

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[RBW] Re: Un-racer compact crankset question.

[dougP]

Don't neglect the influence of tire size.  Chubby 700c tires can be +/-28" 
in dia, and skinny 26" actually less than 26".  

You mention a 9 speed cassette with an 11 smallest cog.  If it's the 
popular 11-34, your choice of 30/42 chainrings is sound.  For general 
purpose riding unloaded, having a low gear less than 1:1 will get most of 
us up most hills.  A lower gear is useful for loaded touring or steep 
off-roading.  

What others have mentioned about 70"-75" gears being most used has also 
been my experience.  In the middle of my cassette are 55" to 75" gears, and 
those handle probably 90% of my riding on the outer ring.  

dougP

On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 10:06:27 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:
>
> Where are you supposed to cruise on your front rings and rear cassette if 
> you have a cc? In the big ring while in the middle of the cassette?
>
> If so, then according to the Sheldon calculator, based on my cruising area 
> of my XD2 triple/9-speed cassette setup's gear inches, I would need a 30/42 
> compact crankset to cruise in the middle area of the big ring of a cc and 
> then use the 30 ring for me little gears. Staying in the big one would 
> minimize front shifting, too. I don't need more than 100 inches, so 42 x 11 
> would be fine as my big inches combo. I don't think I would spin out of it.
>
> Is this how I should do it? Just wundrin' if I ever want to give it a try. 
> I had a used bike once with a 34-50/ 12-28 (I think)  that didn't work well 
> because I had to live on the small ring, and still didn't have anything 
> small enough for the steep stuff.
>
> Where do you cruise in your cc setup?
>

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RE: [RBW] Re: Looking for a 61 cm Atlantis

[Allingham II, Thomas J]

That’s a beautiful bike!

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of rw1911
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2014 12:39 AM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: Looking for a 61 cm Atlantis

I have been toying with the idea of selling my 61cm All-Rounder, which I 
believe was an early version of what is now the Atlantis.  The geometry is very 
similar though they were hand built by Match in the earlier days of Rivendell 
(Match, Goodrich, Stark) and were painted by Joe Bell.  I believe they're 
fairly rare in 700c (61cm and up).  David (Cyclotourist) has one out in CA, but 
I'm not aware of any others.  Jim (Cyclofiend) has some info on them here: 
http://www.cyclofiend.com/rbw/gen1/

Unfortunately, I'm all the way up in PA or I'd gladly let you take spin.  Also 
no real feedback on heavy touring vs. unloaded as I have only used with a 
medium saddle bag.  Email me off list if you would like some more info.

Best,

Ron




On Thursday, August 7, 2014 4:17:05 PM UTC-4, Comotion001 wrote:
I'm looking for a 61  cm Atlantis if anyone has one they want to depart with. 
After doing a lot of research on touring bikes, I have been very impressed with 
the feedback on the Atlantis as well as it's versatility.  Since I have never 
ridden one, I would like to find someone close to Charlotte NC that has an 
Atlantis or other Riv that I can actually look at and perhaps ride.
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[RBW] Re: New build: Soma GR, and a question

[Kieran Joyes]

Hey Jim,

What's the stand-over height on your bike? How about your saddle height?

KJ


On Thursday, August 14, 2014 12:56:50 AM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
> Well Grant would probably not approve of the amount of seat post showing, 
> but, it seems to work pretty good for me, and I am comfortable riding it. 
>  Maybe would like a tad more elevation to the stem, but in practice riding 
> it around I don't notice.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/gp/23646261@N03/8p64BN/
>
> The question I have is, is that FD going to work for me?  I am thinking 
> no, because the loop around the post halves the amount of cable pull 
> available to the front shifter.  I can't get it to move nearly as much as I 
> need.  The specs said top pull or bottom pull, but really, I think it would 
> be better with top pull.  Too bad.  I bought a used IRD Alpina the other 
> day, I'm going to use that on the Rivendell and try the FD on the Rivendell 
> on my Soma GR.
> -- 
> Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 
>

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[RBW] Re: Un-racer compact crankset question.

[Ron Mc]

Trying now not to hijack, but what you're describing Andrew fits my 
half-steps-plus-escape Cyclotouriste triple to a tee.  I can leave the rear 
on 16T cog and my 46/42/26T chainrings gives me 76", 70" and 54".  Start 
off on the tiny ring, and cruise rolling hills on the half steps.  

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 9:12:16 AM UTC-5, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro 
wrote:
>
> What Marc Irwin said.  
>
> I'm using 46/30 with 11/28 (8s) and I find I spend a lot of time now in 
> the middle gears.  I tend to front shift at stop lights now:  I shift 
> 46->30 in one of 2 or 3 middle gears, then shift 30->46 once I start to 
> roll.  
>
> This is a relatively new system for me (I previously ran a 53/39) and it's 
> taking a little work to get out of the mindset that I was previously in.  
> The 30/28 really is as low a climbing gear as I can imagine for the riding 
> I do around here (Connecticut).  And while I never, never, NEVER thought 
> that I would use an 11t cog, 46/11 is nice to have at times (e.g., on 9% 
> grades).
>
> On Thursday, August 14, 2014 8:38:08 AM UTC-4, Marc Irwin wrote:
>>
>> I have a 46/30x36/12 setup.  I don't think about it.  I use whatever 
>> feels comfortable wherever I might be?
>>
>> Marc
>>
>> On Thursday, August 14, 2014 1:06:27 AM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:
>>>
>>> Where are you supposed to cruise on your front rings and rear cassette 
>>> if you have a cc? In the big ring while in the middle of the cassette?
>>>
>>> If so, then according to the Sheldon calculator, based on my cruising 
>>> area of my XD2 triple/9-speed cassette setup's gear inches, I would need a 
>>> 30/42 compact crankset to cruise in the middle area of the big ring of a cc 
>>> and then use the 30 ring for me little gears. Staying in the big one would 
>>> minimize front shifting, too. I don't need more than 100 inches, so 42 x 11 
>>> would be fine as my big inches combo. I don't think I would spin out of it.
>>>
>>> Is this how I should do it? Just wundrin' if I ever want to give it a 
>>> try. I had a used bike once with a 34-50/ 12-28 (I think)  that didn't work 
>>> well because I had to live on the small ring, and still didn't have 
>>> anything small enough for the steep stuff.
>>>
>>> Where do you cruise in your cc setup?
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: New build: Soma GR, and a question

[Jim Bronson]

Can't shift into granny, can't shift into big ring.  The derailer does not
seem to move to the limits that i set with the screws.  I took the chain
off to double check the limit screws and the settings looked fine.
On Aug 14, 2014 4:33 AM, "John Stowe"  wrote:

> I have a Shimano FD built to the same design, and it seems to have
> identical lever arm lengths for the top- and bottom-pull configurations, so
> the amount of cable pull required *should* be the same. Can you be more
> specific about the trouble you're having? I took that one off my Sam
> Hillborne because it wasn't shifting well, especially into the small
> chainring - my new "road" derailleur that looks like the IRD works great,
> though. If your problem is similar, then hopefully the fix will be as well.
>
> -John
>
>
> On Thursday, August 14, 2014 12:56:53 AM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:
>>
>> Well Grant would probably not approve of the amount of seat post showing,
>> but, it seems to work pretty good for me, and I am comfortable riding it.
>>  Maybe would like a tad more elevation to the stem, but in practice riding
>> it around I don't notice.
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/gp/23646261@N03/8p64BN/
>>
>> The question I have is, is that FD going to work for me?  I am thinking
>> no, because the loop around the post halves the amount of cable pull
>> available to the front shifter.  I can't get it to move nearly as much as I
>> need.  The specs said top pull or bottom pull, but really, I think it would
>> be better with top pull.  Too bad.  I bought a used IRD Alpina the other
>> day, I'm going to use that on the Rivendell and try the FD on the Rivendell
>> on my Soma GR.
>> --
>> Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!
>>
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[RBW] Re: Shipping, Knickers, and Newbaums. Some observation.

[Kieran J]

The flipside to government involvement is reasonableness. 

Long ago, I swore off UPS and FedEx when bringing items into Canada from 
the US, in favour of USPS/Canada Post. UPS and FedEx each charge wild 
surcharges, on top of already wild shipping fees upfront, in the form of 
brokerage fees, handling fees, and gas surcharges. Sometimes, it's a $80 
item, with $40 shipping and $60 brokerage. That sucks. I still get stung 
the odd time when something is too large or there is no other option but 
one of the private carriers. USPS will sometimes charge duty, but that's 
it. It's never a surprise arbitrary fee.

In addition, I much prefer being able to pick up the item at the post 
office if I miss delivery. UPS will sometimes leave the package in the 
garage or by the door if you specify to do so, but you have to pay the fees 
up front, which involves taping a cheque to the door and hoping it doesn't 
blow away. Crazy!

Canada Post is a crown corporation, and is profitable revenue generator. 
I'm happy to support it.

KJ
Toronto, Canada


On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 5:07:03 PM UTC-4, jinxed wrote:
>
> I've received a couple items in the mail this week and wanted to give some 
> quick feedback.
>
> The recent thread on knickers and subsequent endorsements of the Swrve 
> offerings had me checking them out. I noticed they had some closeouts and 
> snagged a pair of the cotton regular fits in grey. They suggested to size 
> up one which I did. I am pleased to say they fit really well out of the 
> package, and hopefully will not distort too much in the wash. The fit is 
> what I would call trim, but comfortable. The cotton has a pre washed feel, 
> and a good deal of stretch which is great on the bike. Front pockets are 
> normal jeans style with the back being zippered and one small hip pocket 
> that's roughly cell phone sized. The legs fall just below my knees and the 
> opening is neither floppy nor tight. Belt loops are good, though just a bit 
> on the small side. A webbing type belt would work great, but a normal 
> leather one would not fit. Not a big concern as I prefer fabric belts on 
> the bike, which I will need for these. One of the loops is reflective which 
> is cool. Another little thing I noticed was the metal zipper pulls on the 
> back pockets add a little jingle to your rear. Plus. The only thing 
> negative I could note would be the short rise of the back. If I wear these 
> without a belt, or long shirt, there will be some asskrak sported.
>
> I also placed an order for some replacement Hilsen decals and tacked on 
> some Newbaums maroon bar tape. My decals are backordered for a couple 
> weeks, but had the bar tape sent out as I wanted it for a bike I planned to 
> ride over last weekend. Unfortunately the tape didnt arrive till Monday. 
> Regardless I just wanted chime in on the Newbaums, and specifically the 
> Maroon. DANG it's a nice color. I'm of the opinion it will class up any 
> ride and give that extra panache. I would also like to add an honorable 
> mention to the purple. Very regal indeed. I have typically been a black, 
> white, or natural cork kinda guy...things are getting colorful now.
>
> And lastly, shipping. I have been noticing a distinct shift upward in 
> pricing with our UPS shipments at work, but passed it off as we cut back on 
> our account. The problem was, with the increased cost came seemingly 
> increased shipping times. These two orders I received seemed really out of 
> whack. I opted for the direct UPS delivery for my Riv order, which came to 
> ten bucks for two rolls of tape in a small envelope. Took from last 
> Tuesday, till this past Monday. Then the Swrve order was eight bucks, large 
> envelope priority USPS, shipped Monday, arrived Wednesday. I dont ever 
> squabble shipping, as it's a genuine cost to the seller, and it's what I do 
> often at work and see the amounts. I have never really had any big issues 
> with any carrier, but wow, USPS sure is outdoing UPS for cost and delivery 
> times. I set up an account with USPS for the sole purpose of shipping the 
> ACW goods, and have been extremely happy with the results so far. Curious 
> if this is just an anomaly, or if you've noticed it too?
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Shipping, Knickers, and Newbaums. Some observation.

[Andrew Marchant-Shapiro]

Granted, most of us don't use snail mail much anymore.  But the nice thing 
about the USPS is that *nearly *everyone has a physical address, and 
sending stuff to them via the USPS is not expensive.  Imagine we abolishe 
or privatize the USPS.  Can you imagine what the per-letter rate to, oh, I 
don't know, let's say Hawaii, would become?  Or perhaps it would be paid by 
the recipient... 

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 11:14:21 AM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Which provides the power and authority but not a mandate. History provides 
> the precedent. That neither makes it right or wrong.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick 
>
> On Thursday, August 14, 2014 7:46:05 AM UTC-6, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>> Well, there is this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Postal_Clause 
>>
>>
>>
>> Cheers,
>> David
>>
>> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 14, 2014 at 6:28 AM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:
>>
>>> Two excellent reasons why government has no business being in business.
>>>
>>> With abandon,
>>> Patrick
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thursday, August 14, 2014 7:17:48 AM UTC-6, Matthew J wrote:

 > Oh, and they wouldn't need zero interest loans if they weren't the 
 only federal agency required to fully fund an employee's pension when they 
 are hired. Find me a company that can operate in the black 
 > under that condition.

 Plus Congress continues to require the USPS to deliver first class mail 
 6 days a week and door to door in sparsely populated rural areas at prices 
 often $10 to even $15 less than what FedEx and UPS charge to send a skinny 
 mailer to the same address. 

>>>  -- 
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>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Un-racer compact crankset question.

[Joe Bernard]

I always avoid big-big/small-small combos with all cranksets, but don't 
worry about any other variation on a double crank. It's the triples that 
serve up more severe chain angles if you, say, use the big ring with the 3 
biggest rear cogs. If you sight down the bike at the relationship of 
two-chainrings to a 9-speed cassette, you'll see that the cassette is much 
wider than the chainrings, so the severe cross-chain issue really isn't 
there with this setup.

Joe Bernard
Vallejo, CA.

On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 10:06:27 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:

> Where are you supposed to cruise on your front rings and rear cassette if 
> you have a cc? In the big ring while in the middle of the cassette?
>
> If so, then according to the Sheldon calculator, based on my cruising area 
> of my XD2 triple/9-speed cassette setup's gear inches, I would need a 30/42 
> compact crankset to cruise in the middle area of the big ring of a cc and 
> then use the 30 ring for me little gears. Staying in the big one would 
> minimize front shifting, too. I don't need more than 100 inches, so 42 x 11 
> would be fine as my big inches combo. I don't think I would spin out of it.
>
> Is this how I should do it? Just wundrin' if I ever want to give it a try. 
> I had a used bike once with a 34-50/ 12-28 (I think)  that didn't work well 
> because I had to live on the small ring, and still didn't have anything 
> small enough for the steep stuff.
>
> Where do you cruise in your cc setup?
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Shipping, Knickers, and Newbaums. Some observation.

[Deacon Patrick]

Which provides the power and authority but not a mandate. History provides 
the precedent. That neither makes it right or wrong.

With abandon,
Patrick 

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 7:46:05 AM UTC-6, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Well, there is this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Postal_Clause 
>
>
>
> Cheers,
> David
>
> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Aug 14, 2014 at 6:28 AM, Deacon Patrick  > wrote:
>
>> Two excellent reasons why government has no business being in business.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, August 14, 2014 7:17:48 AM UTC-6, Matthew J wrote:
>>>
>>> > Oh, and they wouldn't need zero interest loans if they weren't the 
>>> only federal agency required to fully fund an employee's pension when they 
>>> are hired. Find me a company that can operate in the black 
>>> > under that condition.
>>>
>>> Plus Congress continues to require the USPS to deliver first class mail 
>>> 6 days a week and door to door in sparsely populated rural areas at prices 
>>> often $10 to even $15 less than what FedEx and UPS charge to send a skinny 
>>> mailer to the same address. 
>>>
>>  -- 
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>> .
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>>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Shipping, Knickers, and Newbaums. Some observation.

[Matthew J]

Oh that pesky Constitution!

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 8:46:05 AM UTC-5, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Well, there is this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Postal_Clause 
>
>
>
> Cheers,
> David
>
> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Aug 14, 2014 at 6:28 AM, Deacon Patrick  > wrote:
>
>> Two excellent reasons why government has no business being in business.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, August 14, 2014 7:17:48 AM UTC-6, Matthew J wrote:
>>>
>>> > Oh, and they wouldn't need zero interest loans if they weren't the 
>>> only federal agency required to fully fund an employee's pension when they 
>>> are hired. Find me a company that can operate in the black 
>>> > under that condition.
>>>
>>> Plus Congress continues to require the USPS to deliver first class mail 
>>> 6 days a week and door to door in sparsely populated rural areas at prices 
>>> often $10 to even $15 less than what FedEx and UPS charge to send a skinny 
>>> mailer to the same address. 
>>>
>>  -- 
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>>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Wheelbase for a 56cm Atlantis?

['Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Interesting.  I thought the Atlantis chainstays had always been 44cm 
(current spec according to Riv website).  From 1995 to pretty much 2012, I 
rode bikes with 43cm chainstays and about a 1030mm wheelbase so that's what 
I'm used to.  I've got a couple of longer bikes now and they are smooth 
riding but I prefer the agility of the smaller wheelbase.  This excites me 
even more about finding a used Atlantis.  The LHT's 46cm chainstays are 
about the only thing that keeps me from just buying one of those.  



On Thursday, August 14, 2014 8:14:25 AM UTC-5, Jack wrote:
>
> My early model 56cm Atlantis wheelbase measures just shy of 103cm, but 
> that was measured after two big mugs of coffee so maybe I'm a little shaky 
> :-)  I've heard that the newer Atlantis has longer chainstays so that might 
> account for the difference from WETH's number. 
>
> My 2006 model 56cm LHT measures 106.5. 
>
>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Un-racer compact crankset question.

[Andrew Marchant-Shapiro]

What Marc Irwin said.  

I'm using 46/30 with 11/28 (8s) and I find I spend a lot of time now in the 
middle gears.  I tend to front shift at stop lights now:  I shift 46->30 in 
one of 2 or 3 middle gears, then shift 30->46 once I start to roll.  

This is a relatively new system for me (I previously ran a 53/39) and it's 
taking a little work to get out of the mindset that I was previously in.  
The 30/28 really is as low a climbing gear as I can imagine for the riding 
I do around here (Connecticut).  And while I never, never, NEVER thought 
that I would use an 11t cog, 46/11 is nice to have at times (e.g., on 9% 
grades).

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 8:38:08 AM UTC-4, Marc Irwin wrote:
>
> I have a 46/30x36/12 setup.  I don't think about it.  I use whatever feels 
> comfortable wherever I might be?
>
> Marc
>
> On Thursday, August 14, 2014 1:06:27 AM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:
>>
>> Where are you supposed to cruise on your front rings and rear cassette if 
>> you have a cc? In the big ring while in the middle of the cassette?
>>
>> If so, then according to the Sheldon calculator, based on my cruising 
>> area of my XD2 triple/9-speed cassette setup's gear inches, I would need a 
>> 30/42 compact crankset to cruise in the middle area of the big ring of a cc 
>> and then use the 30 ring for me little gears. Staying in the big one would 
>> minimize front shifting, too. I don't need more than 100 inches, so 42 x 11 
>> would be fine as my big inches combo. I don't think I would spin out of it.
>>
>> Is this how I should do it? Just wundrin' if I ever want to give it a 
>> try. I had a used bike once with a 34-50/ 12-28 (I think)  that didn't work 
>> well because I had to live on the small ring, and still didn't have 
>> anything small enough for the steep stuff.
>>
>> Where do you cruise in your cc setup?
>>
>

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[RBW] New build: Soma GR, and a question

[ted]

I'm a bit confused. Are you routing the fd cable along the top tube and then 
down the seat tube? That is the way a top pull fd is designed to work. Pictures 
look like you have standard down tube cable route for your fd.

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[RBW] Re: Attn: Big mileage riders

[MobileBill]

Seems like a good time to note that in 19,500 miles I have worn out three 
Schwalbe Marathons (not three sets, three tires -- the fourth tire is still 
in service). And it's not that the tires weren't still riding fine, I just 
got a little nervous when the undertread started peaking through. If I kept 
the front tires on the front, rather than rotating to back, they'd easily 
run 12,000+. So I don't quite know how to figure the mileage, but I got my 
money's worth. 
I am tempted to try other lighter, more flexible, and more fashionable 
tires on my Saluki, but ... I've had three flats in 19,500 miles on regular 
ol marathons, and  I commute on nasty roads  ... and after three thousand 
or so miles, my Marathons have lost a lot of weight and and gained perhaps 
a bit of flexibility, so for the next 5,000 miles I like to pretend I have 
a reasonable facsimile of a Compass tire ... 

On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 5:18:25 PM UTC-5, dougP wrote:
>
> The Blug has some interesting photos of a Schwalbe Marathon that went 
> 14,000 miles.  There's no tread left on the center, so it pretty much 
> earned its keep a while back, IMHO.  BUT, at the end of story, Rivendell 
> says "Anybody who buys a Marathon Plus from us and rides it 14,000 miles 
> gets a free replacement."  Save those proofs-of-purchase!  
>
> I don't doubt the mileage.  I got 11,000 miles out of a Supreme on the 
> front on my Atlantis.  It looked better than the tire in the photo when I 
> changed it.  I don't try to squeeze the last mile out of my tires, 
> especially the front.  Tire life is highly variable, depending on width, 
> load such as rider weight & use, nice pavement vs off-road, etc.  
>
> So if you pile on the miles, now you know the best source for tires.  
>
> dougP
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Shipping, Knickers, and Newbaums. Some observation.

[cyclotourist]

Well, there is this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Postal_Clause



Cheers,
David

"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal





On Thu, Aug 14, 2014 at 6:28 AM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> Two excellent reasons why government has no business being in business.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
>
> On Thursday, August 14, 2014 7:17:48 AM UTC-6, Matthew J wrote:
>>
>> > Oh, and they wouldn't need zero interest loans if they weren't the only
>> federal agency required to fully fund an employee's pension when they are
>> hired. Find me a company that can operate in the black
>> > under that condition.
>>
>> Plus Congress continues to require the USPS to deliver first class mail 6
>> days a week and door to door in sparsely populated rural areas at prices
>> often $10 to even $15 less than what FedEx and UPS charge to send a skinny
>> mailer to the same address.
>>
>  --
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[RBW] Re: Flat bar Roadeo

[Kieran J]

Absolutely. It's analogous to so many RBWers use Alba bars for off-roading. 
I think a lot of people would pigeonhole the Albas as for town bike or 
porteur. To each their own!

KJ

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 9:14:20 AM UTC-4, Matthew J wrote:
>
> > A rodeo with bars like this is a town bike. 
>
> Maybe for some.  Certainly not for all.  While more common overseas than 
> in the U.S., there are many people more than happy doing their long 
> distance pleasure riding with flat bars.  
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Shipping, Knickers, and Newbaums. Some observation.

[Deacon Patrick]

Two excellent reasons why government has no business being in business.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 7:17:48 AM UTC-6, Matthew J wrote:
>
> > Oh, and they wouldn't need zero interest loans if they weren't the only 
> federal agency required to fully fund an employee's pension when they are 
> hired. Find me a company that can operate in the black 
> > under that condition.
>
> Plus Congress continues to require the USPS to deliver first class mail 6 
> days a week and door to door in sparsely populated rural areas at prices 
> often $10 to even $15 less than what FedEx and UPS charge to send a skinny 
> mailer to the same address. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Shipping, Knickers, and Newbaums. Some observation.

[Matthew J]

> Oh, and they wouldn't need zero interest loans if they weren't the only 
federal agency required to fully fund an employee's pension when they are 
hired. Find me a company that can operate in the black 
> under that condition.

Plus Congress continues to require the USPS to deliver first class mail 6 
days a week and door to door in sparsely populated rural areas at prices 
often $10 to even $15 less than what FedEx and UPS charge to send a skinny 
mailer to the same address. 

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[RBW] Re: Wheelbase for a 56cm Atlantis?

['Jack' via RBW Owners Bunch]

My early model 56cm Atlantis wheelbase measures just shy of 103cm, but that 
was measured after two big mugs of coffee so maybe I'm a little shaky :-)  
I've heard that the newer Atlantis has longer chainstays so that might 
account for the difference from WETH's number. 

My 2006 model 56cm LHT measures 106.5. 


>

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[RBW] Re: Flat bar Roadeo

[Matthew J]

 > A rodeo with bars like this is a town bike. 

Maybe for some.  Certainly not for all.  While more common overseas than in 
the U.S., there are many people more than happy doing their long distance 
pleasure riding with flat bars.  


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[RBW] Re: Wheelbase for a 56cm Atlantis?

['Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Thanks!!   That sounds about right and is in the ballpark of what I am used 
to and what I was hoping for.  

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 7:57:41 AM UTC-5, WETH wrote:
>
> My 56 Atlantis has a wheelbase of 104cm according to my tape.  However, 
> this measurement was taken after only one cup of coffee.
>
> Erl
>

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[RBW] Wheelbase for a 56cm Atlantis?

[WETH]

My 56 Atlantis has a wheelbase of 104cm according to my tape.  However, this 
measurement was taken after only one cup of coffee.

Erl

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[RBW] Re: Un-racer compact crankset question.

[Bob E]

I'm using 44/30 chainrings and a 12-27 10-speed cassette on my 650B bike, 
giving me a 96 gear-inch high and a 29 gear-inch low. I spend most of the 
time in the 44 ring (cruising while in the middle of the cassette gets me 
around 70 gear-inches), while the smaller ring is used for climbing. This 
range works great for me.
 
http://home.earthlink.net/~mike.sherman/shift.html?R0=30&R1=44&R2=999&C0=12&C1=13&C2=14&C3=15&C4=16&C5=17&C6=19&C7=21&C8=24&C9=27&C10=999&CAS=0&WI=13&CR=170&RT=1&ST=0&RPM=90&SRT=0&lRPM=80&hRMP=100&G=show&S=no&TITLE=&HL=1
 
Bob E.
Garwood, NJ

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[RBW] Re: The Rivendell Bike Weight Thread

[Edwin W]

Finally got around to weighing my 60cm Sam.
36 pounds

Build
Sugino 26/40/bashguard crank
Sneaker pedals
Mark's front rack
Wald medium basket with bungee net and a spare irish strap
Longboard fenders
Brooks B17
Nitto seatpost
Nitto stem (pearl?) 11cm
Albas
CR18 rims with 36 spokes
Novatech cheapie dynamo upfront, iq fly light in front, topline brake plus 
in back
LX hub in back
8 speed cassette
2 king cages
Public spring loaded rack in back

*Major *weight savings from:
Orange paint - scientifically proven to be faster and lighter
Single top tube
No front derailer

Not too light, not too heavy, in my book,

Edwin

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[RBW] Wheelbase for a 56cm Atlantis?

['Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Would anyone with a 56cm Atlantis be willing to grab a tape measure and 
determine the overall wheelbase?  I've spent a very limited amount of time 
riding the old 1992 Rockhopper I'm working on as a project but I had so 
much fun on it that I'm committed to a long-term 26" high quality bike. 
 I'll likely go custom with R&E in Seattle or I'll keep my eyes peeled for 
a used Atlantis.  The wheelbase of the Rockhopper is about 1075 and a 56cm 
LHT is a bit more than that.  The 56cm Atlantis appears to be somewhat 
shorter in wheelbase (a good thing for my riding).

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[RBW] Re: Un-racer compact crankset question.

[Marc Irwin]

I have a 46/30x36/12 setup.  I don't think about it.  I use whatever feels 
comfortable wherever I might be?

Marc

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 1:06:27 AM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:
>
> Where are you supposed to cruise on your front rings and rear cassette if 
> you have a cc? In the big ring while in the middle of the cassette?
>
> If so, then according to the Sheldon calculator, based on my cruising area 
> of my XD2 triple/9-speed cassette setup's gear inches, I would need a 30/42 
> compact crankset to cruise in the middle area of the big ring of a cc and 
> then use the 30 ring for me little gears. Staying in the big one would 
> minimize front shifting, too. I don't need more than 100 inches, so 42 x 11 
> would be fine as my big inches combo. I don't think I would spin out of it.
>
> Is this how I should do it? Just wundrin' if I ever want to give it a try. 
> I had a used bike once with a 34-50/ 12-28 (I think)  that didn't work well 
> because I had to live on the small ring, and still didn't have anything 
> small enough for the steep stuff.
>
> Where do you cruise in your cc setup?
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Flat bar Roadeo

[Will]

Braze-ons is what I meant. VR software is contextual, usually it gets it 
right. I should proof-read before hitting the post button. 

I do like that Roadeo. Showed to my son. We're about to start a bike 
project. He's got an early 80s Trek 613 that's about to get a same-period 
Shimano 600 group, a new Brooks, and a light system upgrade. He's going to 
buy that tiny Lumotec IQ2. 

Since the frames are so similar (Roadeo/613) I thought to have him try 
those bars. He's says no. Wants to keep the drops. Oh well...

On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 9:07:26 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> On 08/13/2014 09:36 PM, Will wrote: 
> > You know... this invites scope creep. A rodeo with bars like this is a 
> > town bike. Nothing wrong with that. But it needs stay braise-ons to 
> > secure racks for utility shopping. That moves into Homer terrritory. 
> > 
> > It is a slippery slope. I say do the braise ons and let the chips fall 
> > wherever they fall. 
>
> Surely you mean braze-ons.  Brazing is a way of joining metal; braising 
> is a combination-cooking method that uses both moist and dry heats: 
> typically, the food is first seared at a high temperature, then finished 
> in a covered pot at a lower temperature while sitting in some (variable) 
> amount of liquid (which may also add flavor). 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: New build: Soma GR, and a question

[John Stowe]

I have a Shimano FD built to the same design, and it seems to have 
identical lever arm lengths for the top- and bottom-pull configurations, so 
the amount of cable pull required *should* be the same. Can you be more 
specific about the trouble you're having? I took that one off my Sam 
Hillborne because it wasn't shifting well, especially into the small 
chainring - my new "road" derailleur that looks like the IRD works great, 
though. If your problem is similar, then hopefully the fix will be as well.

-John


On Thursday, August 14, 2014 12:56:53 AM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
> Well Grant would probably not approve of the amount of seat post showing, 
> but, it seems to work pretty good for me, and I am comfortable riding it. 
>  Maybe would like a tad more elevation to the stem, but in practice riding 
> it around I don't notice.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/gp/23646261@N03/8p64BN/
>
> The question I have is, is that FD going to work for me?  I am thinking 
> no, because the loop around the post halves the amount of cable pull 
> available to the front shifter.  I can't get it to move nearly as much as I 
> need.  The specs said top pull or bottom pull, but really, I think it would 
> be better with top pull.  Too bad.  I bought a used IRD Alpina the other 
> day, I'm going to use that on the Rivendell and try the FD on the Rivendell 
> on my Soma GR.
> -- 
> Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 
>

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[RBW] Re: Un-racer compact crankset question.

[Ron Mc]

I would say the 42T chainring is for cruising, and the 30T chainring is for 
climbing and off-pavement riding.  My normal cruising is 70" or 75" gears, 
though I may start up as low as a 50-inch gear.  

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 12:06:27 AM UTC-5, lungimsam wrote:
>
> Where are you supposed to cruise on your front rings and rear cassette if 
> you have a cc? In the big ring while in the middle of the cassette?
>
> If so, then according to the Sheldon calculator, based on my cruising area 
> of my XD2 triple/9-speed cassette setup's gear inches, I would need a 30/42 
> compact crankset to cruise in the middle area of the big ring of a cc and 
> then use the 30 ring for me little gears. Staying in the big one would 
> minimize front shifting, too. I don't need more than 100 inches, so 42 x 11 
> would be fine as my big inches combo. I don't think I would spin out of it.
>
> Is this how I should do it? Just wundrin' if I ever want to give it a try. 
> I had a used bike once with a 34-50/ 12-28 (I think)  that didn't work well 
> because I had to live on the small ring, and still didn't have anything 
> small enough for the steep stuff.
>
> Where do you cruise in your cc setup?
>

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Re: [RBW] new Brooks C-17

[Ron Mc]

Hope it works out for you.  Haven you considered contacting Rivet?  Both 
Indy and Diablo are narrower than B/C-17, and Debra charges $25 for a demo 
loaner.  

On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 10:48:47 PM UTC-5, Don Compton wrote:
>
> Thanks for your reply. The C-17 seems a little narrower. I have only 
> ridden it around the block. Tomorrow I am going to ride a 40 mile ride out 
> off Ione,Ca. I think that if the saddle seems ok on that ride, I may be 
> good to go. I don't see any breakin in the saddle.
>
> On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 8:37:38 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>> Will be interesting to hear how this works out! Hopefully will meet all 
>> your needs. Have you ever tried Swift? They're flat-topped like a B17, but 
>> a touch narrower. If the C17 doesn't work out, check one out.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> David
>>
>> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Aug 13, 2014 at 8:35 PM, Don Compton  wrote:
>>
>>> Tomorrow will be my first 40 mile on my new C-17. Wish me luck. I just 
>>> can't ride my B-17s anymore. The hump that develops after miles of breakin 
>>> causes me some problems and , after not riding a B-17 for 3 months, I tried 
>>> one more time. The same crotch problems came back. Hopefully the C-17 will 
>>> work out.
>>> I have shortish femurs and the saddles that I am using on my other bikes 
>>> will not work on my Roadeo ( even with a no setback seatpost).
>>>
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>>
>>

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