Re: [RBW] Re: Great ride and failure to help

2015-04-30 Thread Joe Bernard
I always take tools and a pump with me when I drive it. And sometimes a folding 
bike ;)

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[RBW] 51cm Sam Hillborne build: advice?

2015-04-30 Thread islaysteve
Congratulations on your new bike, Zach!  Just one suggestion, the Sackville 
Saddlesack XS is perfect for everyday riding, it holds what you need, as it 
says on the Riv website.  And now there's a choice of colors again. It may seem 
a bit pricey but it looks great on the bike.  Cheers,
Steve

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[RBW] Re: Broken Crank (Quickbeam)

2015-04-30 Thread Ron Mc
can't see your photos without a yahoo account.  I think we're dealing with 
the biggest limitation of a square taper crank.  The torque is going to 
gradually relax, and stresses become really high on the inside corner - the 
one that's loaded when you step on the crank.  I had the same thing happen 
on a used TA5 - broke when I was taking off from a stoplight.  

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/700c/aP1207649.jpg 
 
  
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/700c/aP1207650.jpg



 

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[RBW] Re: What do Ricendell riders use for cycling shoes (not clipless).

2015-04-30 Thread Ron Mc
my daughter likes her airy Keens (I'm not sure of the model), which also 
have good toe protection and good arch support 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/estes/bike/aleoncreektrailhead.jpg


On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 8:22:11 AM UTC-5, Nancy Seibel wrote:

 I use Salomon women's XR mission running/trail shoes.

 On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 8:39:17 PM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:

 What do you all use? 
 Looking for something so I don't feel my rat raps through the soles. 
 Been using sneakers but feet getting a little sore on longer rides.



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Re: [RBW] Broken Crank (Quickbeam)

2015-04-30 Thread Jason Hartman
Not to be pedantic, but that looks like the Lambert copy of the TA crank.
They were designed for their proprietary spindle that was taperless. If you
were using it on another bottom bracket, it's not surprising that it broke.
A lot of people get the two cranks confused because they look so similar.

Jay Hartman

On Thursday, April 30, 2015, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:

 can't see your photos without a yahoo account.  I think we're dealing with
 the biggest limitation of a square taper crank.  The torque is going to
 gradually relax, and stresses become really high on the inside corner - the
 one that's loaded when you step on the crank.  I had the same thing happen
 on a used TA5 - broke when I was taking off from a stoplight.


 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/700c/aP1207649.jpg

 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/700c/aP1207650.jpg



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[RBW] Schwalbe Marathon Almotion Riders

2015-04-30 Thread Deacon Patrick
Do you ride them? In what conditions? How do you like them? Schwalbe describes 
them as on par for trail and snow with the Smart Sam (I presume because they 
are supple, because they have no knobbies), but are listed as highest in the 
fast rolling category. I’m considering switching to them on my Hunqapillar as a 
better do everything tire.

With abandon,
Patrick

www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
www.OurHolyConception.org

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[RBW] Re: Brief Apology to the Forum

2015-04-30 Thread Ron Mc
have done the same thing before.  The same scroll-down that lets you reply 
privately to author also lets you back up and delete your post

On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 10:44:18 PM UTC-5, hsmitham wrote:

 Jim, 

 If you keep this up the cyber cops will be knocking at your door! And we 
 know how they can get  

 ~Hugh honest is wasn't me officer Smitham

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[RBW] Re: Compass Barlow Pass Tires

2015-04-30 Thread Ron Mc
I think dead is a perfect description of Marathons, but they are tough and 
they are fast.  My best riding buddy wants exactly that on all his bikes 
and runs his pressures high.  
I'm curious if anybody has tried Barlows on Mavic Open Pro rims.  I've 
figured out from experience that the Challange bead is made for skinny 
rims, and don't bite as well on wider rims like my Synergies.  I've also 
figured out skinny rims are tougher in the long-run, but not trying to 
debate that.  

On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 1:11:18 AM UTC-5, Mike Shaljian wrote:

 I think you need to be more skeptical of the notion that the Marathons 
 are, in fact, significantly more flat-resistant than the Barlows. The 
 higher volume and lower pressure characteristics of the Barlow make it, in 
 my estimation, a very flat resistant tire. I have put probably 3500 miles 
 on Barlows in the past year or so, entirely while living in college towns 
 with lots of broken glass. Like, actually, fairly large bits are all around 
 and ground glass is everywhere where I've been riding. I have not had one 
 flat in that time and I wouldn't say I ride particularly cautiously. I just 
 run the Barlows at 38 in the rear and 34 up front, and I'm 190 lbs. 

 I agree with Patrick, running them at low pressure is almost unsettlingly 
 more comfortable and zippier, in my experience. Marathons always felt so 
 very dead to me, on both a Quickbeam and Sam Hillborne. 

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[RBW] Re: Compass Barlow Pass Tires

2015-04-30 Thread Ron Mc
I think the best argument about optimum low pressure is texture-following. 
 Chatter and vibration from high tire pressure feel like riding with your 
hair on fire, but as Jan and others have demonstrated, you get the worst 
rolling resistance when your tire is not conforming to the road surface 
texture.  

On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 7:57:08 AM UTC-5, David Banzer wrote:

 I agree with others. Try them at different pressures before giving up on 
 them. IME, larger volume tires are more sensitive to pressure/feel 
 relationship. That's a good thing as you can adjust them as needed for what 
 road surface you're on. Typically I feel faster on gravel with a lower 
 pressure, slightly higher pressure for paved roads. 
 My experience is limited to similar 650b tires and 35mm Paselas, not 
 specifically Barlow Pass tires (though they are on my short list once 
 Paselas and Resist Nomads wear out).
 David
 Chicago



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[RBW] Re: What do Ricendell riders use for cycling shoes (not clipless).

2015-04-30 Thread Nancy Seibel
I use Salomon women's XR mission running/trail shoes.

On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 8:39:17 PM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:

 What do you all use? 
 Looking for something so I don't feel my rat raps through the soles. 
 Been using sneakers but feet getting a little sore on longer rides.

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[RBW] Re: Broken Crank (Quickbeam)

2015-04-30 Thread Deacon Patrick
I'm glad you're OK, Bob! That was very good timing of it to break given 
some of the alternatives. I can't see your photos on Flickr as they are 
private.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: What do Ricendell riders use for cycling shoes (not clipless).

2015-04-30 Thread Ron Mc
I'm betting they're Taiwan-made frames

On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 12:13:18 AM UTC-5, Tim wrote:

 Hey, by the way, where do you find your Ricendell bikes? :)

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[RBW] Re: Compass Barlow Pass Tires

2015-04-30 Thread David Banzer
I agree with others. Try them at different pressures before giving up on 
them. IME, larger volume tires are more sensitive to pressure/feel 
relationship. That's a good thing as you can adjust them as needed for what 
road surface you're on. Typically I feel faster on gravel with a lower 
pressure, slightly higher pressure for paved roads. 
My experience is limited to similar 650b tires and 35mm Paselas, not 
specifically Barlow Pass tires (though they are on my short list once 
Paselas and Resist Nomads wear out).
David
Chicago

On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 1:11:18 AM UTC-5, Mike Shaljian wrote:

 I think you need to be more skeptical of the notion that the Marathons 
 are, in fact, significantly more flat-resistant than the Barlows. The 
 higher volume and lower pressure characteristics of the Barlow make it, in 
 my estimation, a very flat resistant tire. I have put probably 3500 miles 
 on Barlows in the past year or so, entirely while living in college towns 
 with lots of broken glass. Like, actually, fairly large bits are all around 
 and ground glass is everywhere where I've been riding. I have not had one 
 flat in that time and I wouldn't say I ride particularly cautiously. I just 
 run the Barlows at 38 in the rear and 34 up front, and I'm 190 lbs. 

 I agree with Patrick, running them at low pressure is almost unsettlingly 
 more comfortable and zippier, in my experience. Marathons always felt so 
 very dead to me, on both a Quickbeam and Sam Hillborne. 

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[RBW] Re: 51cm Sam Hillborne build: advice?

2015-04-30 Thread Will
Throw a Tubus rack on the back. They are set up for BM topline lights. If 
you go Dynamo, get a wired version, otherwise the Cygo Streak front and 
battery Topline back are good alternatives. Riv sells both. 

Get a rolltop pannier for the back rack. Ortlieb and Arkel have excellent 
rapid attach/detach bags. Major cargo capability is serious luxury. It's 
worth a few $$$. Saddle bags are not as convenient, particularly if you 
park the bike for errand/grocery shopping purposes. You can't leave a $200 
bag on the bike. 

No changes to the build kit. It's solid. Get a B17 special. Get the sneaker 
peddles. Yes, they are cheap, I have them on 3 bikes. Like them a lot. 

If you go dynamo, get a set of Pitlocks. Having the wheels (and seat post) 
secured is real peace of mind.   

Get the biggest fenders the bike will fit. 

Oh... one more thing... if you're mostly commuting and local riding, 
consider albastaches. Just saying...

Will




Will



On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 7:08:50 PM UTC-5, Zach Duval wrote:

 Greetings Riv-owning folks,

 Today my new Sam Hillborne frameset arrived, and I'm beyond stoked to 
 start building 'er up. I opted for only the frameset because I work for a 
 local bike shop and am able to get some pretty sweet deals on components. 
 However, I'm new to the shop and this will be my first build from scratch, 
 so I'm open to advice.

 I'd like the Sam set up with mid-weight touring in mind, with some 
 flexibility to maintain a comfortable and reasonably speedy unloaded ride, 
 and will definitely be going drop-bar style with Noodles.

 My question for you folks is what are some key upgrades I might consider 
 over the standard build kit suggested on Riv's website? What have you 
 learned from outfitting your own Rivs?

 Lay on the Riv wisdom.

 Thanks!






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[RBW] Re: Broken Crank (Quickbeam)

2015-04-30 Thread WETH
Bob,
I am glad it was not a more catastrophic experience for you.
All the best,
Erl

On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 11:52:15 PM UTC-4, Statrixbob wrote:

 First let me say...no injuries, no accident, didn't even fall over. Having 
 said that, it was a bit unexpected and I'm terribly grateful it didn't 
 happen this weekend when I rode the 2015 JBK Haleiwa Metric Century on my 
 Quickbeam (and had a great time as documented in another email and at: 
 http://www.statrix.com/2015/04/2015_jbk_ride_report/)

 Anyway, I left work today, hopped on my bike and was going to run a few 
 errands and maybe put in an extra mile or two (and I do mean just a mile or 
 two - but still fun, eh?)

 I was at a light and when stood and pushed off when the light turned green 
 my foot sort of kept going to the ground. Luckily I didn't fall and 
 stopped, though it probably looked clumsy. I couldn't figure out how I'd 
 missed the pedal. 

 I hadn't. My Sugino XD2-QB double 40/32 175mm and come undone. 

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/mgps-bob/sets/72157652254822642/

 I didn't take an image in place. I got the hell off the road. :-)

 I bought the bike in December 2009 and have ridden the heck out of it. 
 I've also mostly been a lot heavier than I am today (also documented in 
 other emails around here). I've gone from 275 to 197, mostly since November 
 2014. If you do the math, the crank mostly got me at my heaviest.

 If you look at the break it seems pretty clear it'd been a while coming. 
 There are definite differences from one side of the break to the other. As 
 I said, I'm really just grateful that it didn't happen on the century this 
 weekend, or in heaving traffic (could have too). It was pretty much a 
 non-event.

 For those who wonder, I have a Hunq that'll be ridden a bit more now. If 
 I'm annoyed with anything it's that I just, and I mean just, ordered some 
 new cork grips from Riv and now will have to order a new crank - twice the 
 shipping charge. If I'd have waited a day or two on the cork grips it could 
 all be one box. Sigh. Luxury problem.

 Anyway I ride the bike almost exclusively in 42x16 mode and figure I'll 
 get new chainrings and a new single speed cassette - all contingent on 
 taking the chain off and actually seeing what things look like - I might be 
 okay.

 As for the Hunq I just had a new dynohub wheel made for it and when I got 
 home instead of playing around the with disassembly the QB I put on the new 
 Eyc light, Top Line rear light, and wired it all up. Tomorrow I have a late 
 ride 'date' and until now only the QB had that much light going for it. :-)

 Aloha, 

 Bob

 -- 
 Robert Harrison
 Honolulu, HI
 rfhar...@gmail.com javascript:
 statrix.com
 Wu Name: Tha Eurythmic King of Nowhere
  

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[RBW] Re: 51cm Sam Hillborne build: advice?

2015-04-30 Thread WETH
Congratulations on the new bike.  Looking forward to seeing photos of the 
final build.
There have been some good suggestions.  My two cents:
1. Compass tires
2. Sneaker pedals
3. Interrupter levers (I like them on my noodles when I am riding in urban 
areas)
4. Cork bar tape; I prefer it to the cotton.
Enjoy the build process,
Erl

On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 8:08:50 PM UTC-4, Zach Duval wrote:

 Greetings Riv-owning folks,

 Today my new Sam Hillborne frameset arrived, and I'm beyond stoked to 
 start building 'er up. I opted for only the frameset because I work for a 
 local bike shop and am able to get some pretty sweet deals on components. 
 However, I'm new to the shop and this will be my first build from scratch, 
 so I'm open to advice.

 I'd like the Sam set up with mid-weight touring in mind, with some 
 flexibility to maintain a comfortable and reasonably speedy unloaded ride, 
 and will definitely be going drop-bar style with Noodles.

 My question for you folks is what are some key upgrades I might consider 
 over the standard build kit suggested on Riv's website? What have you 
 learned from outfitting your own Rivs?

 Lay on the Riv wisdom.

 Thanks!






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[RBW] (Sold) Bruce Gordon Rear Rack $95 (shipped to continental US)

2015-04-30 Thread boomer
Remove post 

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[RBW] Re: Broken Crank (Quickbeam)

2015-04-30 Thread Ron Mc
that's a really strange place to break.  It cracked gradually from the 
inside.  Was there any kind of stamped marking at the crack origin on the 
inside edge?  

On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 9:56:15 AM UTC-5, Statrixbob wrote:

 Oops, I just made the photos public. 

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/mgps-bob/sets/72157652254822642/

 Mea culpa and aloha!

 Bob
 On Apr 29, 2015 5:51 PM, Robert F. Harrison rfhar...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote:

 First let me say...no injuries, no accident, didn't even fall over. 
 Having said that, it was a bit unexpected and I'm terribly grateful it 
 didn't happen this weekend when I rode the 2015 JBK Haleiwa Metric Century 
 on my Quickbeam (and had a great time as documented in another email and 
 at: http://www.statrix.com/2015/04/2015_jbk_ride_report/)

 Anyway, I left work today, hopped on my bike and was going to run a few 
 errands and maybe put in an extra mile or two (and I do mean just a mile or 
 two - but still fun, eh?)

 I was at a light and when stood and pushed off when the light turned 
 green my foot sort of kept going to the ground. Luckily I didn't fall and 
 stopped, though it probably looked clumsy. I couldn't figure out how I'd 
 missed the pedal. 

 I hadn't. My Sugino XD2-QB double 40/32 175mm and come undone. 

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/mgps-bob/sets/72157652254822642/

 I didn't take an image in place. I got the hell off the road. :-)

 I bought the bike in December 2009 and have ridden the heck out of it. 
 I've also mostly been a lot heavier than I am today (also documented in 
 other emails around here). I've gone from 275 to 197, mostly since November 
 2014. If you do the math, the crank mostly got me at my heaviest.

 If you look at the break it seems pretty clear it'd been a while coming. 
 There are definite differences from one side of the break to the other. As 
 I said, I'm really just grateful that it didn't happen on the century this 
 weekend, or in heaving traffic (could have too). It was pretty much a 
 non-event.

 For those who wonder, I have a Hunq that'll be ridden a bit more now. If 
 I'm annoyed with anything it's that I just, and I mean just, ordered some 
 new cork grips from Riv and now will have to order a new crank - twice the 
 shipping charge. If I'd have waited a day or two on the cork grips it could 
 all be one box. Sigh. Luxury problem.

 Anyway I ride the bike almost exclusively in 42x16 mode and figure I'll 
 get new chainrings and a new single speed cassette - all contingent on 
 taking the chain off and actually seeing what things look like - I might be 
 okay.

 As for the Hunq I just had a new dynohub wheel made for it and when I got 
 home instead of playing around the with disassembly the QB I put on the new 
 Eyc light, Top Line rear light, and wired it all up. Tomorrow I have a late 
 ride 'date' and until now only the QB had that much light going for it. :-)

 Aloha, 

 Bob

 -- 
 Robert Harrison
 Honolulu, HI
 rfhar...@gmail.com javascript:
 statrix.com
 Wu Name: Tha Eurythmic King of Nowhere
  


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[RBW] FS: Spring Cleaning - Round 1. Parts Bags.

2015-04-30 Thread David Banzer
With the anticipation of a tiny new member of the household in the upcoming 
months, I've been kindly asked to clear out unnecessary bike bits and bags 
that have been piling up...

So, Round 1 of Spring Cleaning!
Same sort of deal that I've done in the past - items are listed on my 
webstore: treetop.bigcartel.com
Shipping is a flat $6 per order, shipped USPS Priority Mail so items will 
arrive quickly.
I also have other bags there that aren't in the following list, and Willow 
chainrings (which will go up in price by a few bucks this weekend).
Please go through the links for photos and info.
Contact me offlist if you can if you have any questions.
Payment can be through Paypal or a credit/debit card (without needing to 
use Paypal).
Local pickup is fine, just order through the store and I'll refund the 
shipping charge.

Thanks,
David
Chicago

Velo Orange Rando Rack - *$50* - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/velo-orange-rando-rack

Suntour Thumb Shifter - Power Shifter (left) 6-speed Index/Friction (right 
- *$15* - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/suntour-thumb-shifters-friction-index

Dia Compe XCE Cantilever Brakeset (front  rear) - *$10* - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/dia-compe-xce-cantilever-brakeset

Dia Compe XCE Brake Levers (2 sets available) - *$10* - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/dia-compe-xce-brake-levers

Nitto Technomic Deluxe Stem - 11cm, 26.0mm - *$35* - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/nitto-technomic-deluxe-stem-26-0mm-11cm

Tektro R538 Brakeset (47-57mm reach) - *$30* - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/tektro-r538-brakeset-silver-47-57mm

Bar Bag/Wedge Set - 2 bags, deluxe-y, leather liners - *$80* - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/front-bar-bag-saddle-wedge-combo-black-w-leather-liner

Porteur Rando Bag - prototype bag - *$75* - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/porteur-rando-bag

Boxy Front Bag/Saddlebag - new design for me, 12x8x8, fits on a front rack 
or saddlebag support/saddle - *$100* - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/boxy-front-bag-saddlebag

Small Saddlebag Test Bag - prototype of a new design - *$30* - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/small-saddlebag-prototype-test-bag

BM IQ Cyo PREMIUM Senso Plus Dynamo Light - new - *$83* - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/b-m-iq-cyo-premium-dynamo-light

Medium Saddle Wedge - YELLOW (1 available) OR RED (5 available) - *$25* - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/medium-saddle-wedge-waxed-canvas

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[RBW] Re: Broken Crank (Quickbeam)

2015-04-30 Thread Ron Mc
the worst part is there is really no sensible way to ride after that - 
luckily when mine happened, we were on our way downtown to the Frankenbike 
meet.  Walked the bike 20 blocks and bought a $5 crank arm to get home.  

On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 8:24:03 AM UTC-5, WETH wrote:

 Bob,
 I am glad it was not a more catastrophic experience for you.
 All the best,
 Erl

 On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 11:52:15 PM UTC-4, Statrixbob wrote:

 First let me say...no injuries, no accident, didn't even fall over. 
 Having said that, it was a bit unexpected and I'm terribly grateful it 
 didn't happen this weekend when I rode the 2015 JBK Haleiwa Metric Century 
 on my Quickbeam (and had a great time as documented in another email and 
 at: http://www.statrix.com/2015/04/2015_jbk_ride_report/)

 Anyway, I left work today, hopped on my bike and was going to run a few 
 errands and maybe put in an extra mile or two (and I do mean just a mile or 
 two - but still fun, eh?)

 I was at a light and when stood and pushed off when the light turned 
 green my foot sort of kept going to the ground. Luckily I didn't fall and 
 stopped, though it probably looked clumsy. I couldn't figure out how I'd 
 missed the pedal. 

 I hadn't. My Sugino XD2-QB double 40/32 175mm and come undone. 

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/mgps-bob/sets/72157652254822642/

 I didn't take an image in place. I got the hell off the road. :-)

 I bought the bike in December 2009 and have ridden the heck out of it. 
 I've also mostly been a lot heavier than I am today (also documented in 
 other emails around here). I've gone from 275 to 197, mostly since November 
 2014. If you do the math, the crank mostly got me at my heaviest.

 If you look at the break it seems pretty clear it'd been a while coming. 
 There are definite differences from one side of the break to the other. As 
 I said, I'm really just grateful that it didn't happen on the century this 
 weekend, or in heaving traffic (could have too). It was pretty much a 
 non-event.

 For those who wonder, I have a Hunq that'll be ridden a bit more now. If 
 I'm annoyed with anything it's that I just, and I mean just, ordered some 
 new cork grips from Riv and now will have to order a new crank - twice the 
 shipping charge. If I'd have waited a day or two on the cork grips it could 
 all be one box. Sigh. Luxury problem.

 Anyway I ride the bike almost exclusively in 42x16 mode and figure I'll 
 get new chainrings and a new single speed cassette - all contingent on 
 taking the chain off and actually seeing what things look like - I might be 
 okay.

 As for the Hunq I just had a new dynohub wheel made for it and when I got 
 home instead of playing around the with disassembly the QB I put on the new 
 Eyc light, Top Line rear light, and wired it all up. Tomorrow I have a late 
 ride 'date' and until now only the QB had that much light going for it. :-)

 Aloha, 

 Bob

 -- 
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 Honolulu, HI
 rfhar...@gmail.com
 statrix.com
 Wu Name: Tha Eurythmic King of Nowhere
  


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[RBW] Re: 51cm Sam Hillborne build: advice?

2015-04-30 Thread Surlyprof
+1 on the B17 Special.  The thicker leather and hammered rivets are a nice 
upgrade from the standard B17.  It also looks great on the blue or 
orange Sams (if that is what yours is).  I also like both the Thin Gripster 
and Grip Kings pedals.  I would get the spike package for the Grip Kings. 
 Mine has an LX rear derailleur which shifts beautifully.  I was always an 
XT guy but I can't justify the upgrade when the LX is shifting so 
smoothly.  I love Paul brakes for a more modern look and great stopping 
power.  However, the Tektro and Diacomps Riv sells are a little more 
classic looking.  Most importantly, get good wheels and hubs.  Rich 
Lesnik's wheels are really nice.  I have 36h Mavic A719 which are really 
sturdy but a little on the heavy side.  They are my go to wheels for 
commuting and camping.  With Schwalbe tires I have little fear of a flat.  
My light wheels are 32h Synergies with Barlow Pass extralights.  Feels 
radically lighter and more responsive.  I'm starting to feel more 
comfortable about loading them more and may start trying them out for more 
loaded riding.  Everything people have been saying about Synergies and 
Barlow Pass tires is making me want to push the weight on them a bit more 
in exchange for the smoother, faster ride.  The tires the group have been 
suggesting are fantastic.  I've become a big fan of Compass (extralights, 
particularly) thanks to feedback from the group.

Have a great time building it up.
John



On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 5:08:50 PM UTC-7, Zach Duval wrote:

 Greetings Riv-owning folks,

 Today my new Sam Hillborne frameset arrived, and I'm beyond stoked to 
 start building 'er up. I opted for only the frameset because I work for a 
 local bike shop and am able to get some pretty sweet deals on components. 
 However, I'm new to the shop and this will be my first build from scratch, 
 so I'm open to advice.

 I'd like the Sam set up with mid-weight touring in mind, with some 
 flexibility to maintain a comfortable and reasonably speedy unloaded ride, 
 and will definitely be going drop-bar style with Noodles.

 My question for you folks is what are some key upgrades I might consider 
 over the standard build kit suggested on Riv's website? What have you 
 learned from outfitting your own Rivs?

 Lay on the Riv wisdom.

 Thanks!






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Re: [RBW] Re: Compass Barlow Pass Tires

2015-04-30 Thread EGNolan


 I haven't tried the Barlows  I haven't had Marathons for a while because 
 fo their stiff nature. I recently went from Panaracer Pasela 35's to the 
 new 38's  it has been a HUGE difference in feel. Even going from their 
 regular tire to the PT (extra flat protection) the tire is a vast 
 improvement. I've got a coupla months on these tires with no flats yet. 
 They aren't quite as dreamy as the Big Apples on my Yuba, but defineitly a 
 tire worth consideration if you're trying to split the difference between 
 supple  flat protection. For reference I'm around 150  ride them at 40-45 
 psi, but have let them get down to the 30's without any problems.

 
Best,
Eric
Indpls 

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[RBW] Re: 51cm Sam Hillborne build: advice?

2015-04-30 Thread Zach Duval


 Well, shucks. I wasn't very patient (the frame just looked so naked, which 
 is nice, but I wanted to take her places) so I put in my order yesterday 
 for most everything I didn't have on hand (my day off work coincided with 
 my post's moderation period).


Anyhow, I went with mostly standard fare with some tweaks here and there, 
including a few compromises based on what was available with a discount 
from the shop.

Cockpit: 44cm Nitto noodles, Shimano Tiagra levers, Nitto Technomic stem, 
and I'll be ordering V.O.'s comfy cotton tape (I really dig the feel of 
shellacked cotton) in red or orange

Drivetrain: Sugino X600, 46/36/26 (hoping I like this gearing) with an XT 
front and Deore back, and an XT 9-speed cassette in back (11-34)

Wheelset: front Shimano dyno hub laced to 36h V.O. Diagonale rim, rear V.O. 
touring hub laced to same rim as front (the V.O. stuff here might be 
somewhat of a gamble, but at just over cost I'll give it a shot)

Other: Tektro R559 brakes, still deciding between MKS touring pedals or the 
Thin Gripsters 

And my Brooks B17 Special was planted on immediately after I received the 
frame. Those two are in it for the long haul together...

 

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Re: [RBW] Re: 51cm Sam Hillborne build: advice?

2015-04-30 Thread Tim Gavin
I'm a huge fan of the Tektro TRP RRL brake levers.  They have excellent
feel and ergonomics.  I have the black/black ones on my KOM and the gum
ones on my Riv (both on Nitto B135 bars).

King Iris cages are the best, hands down.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Compass Barlow Pass Tires

2015-04-30 Thread Tim Gavin
On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 1:11 AM, Mike Shaljian mikeshalj...@gmail.com
wrote:

 I think you need to be more skeptical of the notion that the Marathons
 are, in fact, significantly more flat-resistant than the Barlows. The
 higher volume and lower pressure characteristics of the Barlow make it, in
 my estimation, a very flat resistant tire.


Mike, I envy your luck vs. flats with the Barlow Pass tires.  Commuting on
city streets in Cedar Rapids tore the hell out of my GB Lierres.  I finally
took them off after 1500 miles and many flats, mostly from glass shard
punctures.  I had three separate X holes through the tread.

But, the ride of supple tires is so magical that I keep trying.  I put new
Pari-Motos on my Riv, and flatted the rear within the first 50 miles.  :(
 I'm going to try them tubeless (on tubeless-ready PL23 rims) to deal with
the punctures.

Tim

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Re: [RBW] Broken Crank (Quickbeam)

2015-04-30 Thread Ron Mc
Jay, it's only Lambert foils from Cyclomondo.  It was an Anglophile splash, 
disavowing the French connection.  

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/700c/aPA110001.jpg


On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 8:34:30 AM UTC-5, jay hartman wrote:

 Not to be pedantic, but that looks like the Lambert copy of the TA crank. 
 They were designed for their proprietary spindle that was taperless. If you 
 were using it on another bottom bracket, it's not surprising that it broke. 
 A lot of people get the two cranks confused because they look so similar. 

 Jay Hartman


  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Babyshoe Pass or Loup Loup Pass for my Sam

2015-04-30 Thread ted
I have p45 longboards over the Soma GRs on my AHH. That works fine for me, 
particularly with a center pull front brake that let me get the fender a 
touch higher, though all things considered I think I would prefer a touch 
more room side to side. So I agree that you can run those fenders over 
40+mm tires on these bikes.

One reason for choosing the 42s is that it is the only way to know for sure 
how much you personally like the tires so many folks are raving about. If 
you are curious I think trying them is the only way find out how big a 
difference it will seem like to you. Until you do, you may always wonder if 
you shouldn't be riding fatter tires.

On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 9:11:20 PM UTC-7, DS wrote:

 Ted - Great advice, those are all points that were making me lean towards 
 38s originally. Plus I didn't think of the brake thing (they are calipers). 
 I go back on forth on fenders all the time, I hardly ever ride in the rain, 
 and it hardly ever rains out here, but even then I previously had fenders 
 with the fatty rumpkins and it was fine, mostly. I think it'll be a 
 decision b/w the 38 and 42's. Thanks for the offer on the Cypres, I do have 
 some on my 700c road bike and love them (which is maybe another reason I 
 kind of want to go wide as possible, to differntiate more b/w the other 
 road bike).

 On Wed, Apr 29, 2015 at 7:20 PM, ted ted@comcast.net javascript: 
 wrote:

 DS,
 I have used 32 mm GB Cypres and ~41 mm Soma GR tires on my 650B AHH.
 I will disent from the likely majority opinion and suggest you go with 
 the 38 mm tires.
 I found the 32 mm tires to be excellent for all the roads around me, and 
 I also rode them on local trails and fire roads with no problems. So I am 
 inclined to think 32 mm is wide enough. That said they did look a bit lost 
 in all that clearance, whereas the larger tires fill up the space nicely, 
 and there is no significant down side to going a bit wider.
 I suggest the 38s over the 42s because they will pass the brakes inflated 
 more easily than the 42s (assuming your Sam doesn't have cantilever 
 brakes). Also if you want fenders come next fall, clearance and coverage 
 will be easier with the 38s. When I changed from 32 to 40+ tires I noticed 
 differences but they were modest enough that I doubt I would notice much 
 difference between 38 and 42. I suspect that 38 is the goldilocks size for 
 bikes like ours, particularly for virtually all paved road use.

 If you are in the SF Bay area and we can work out the transfer, you can 
 try out my Cypres tires if you like. One has a small casing cut that should 
 probably be booted but otherwise they are fine.


 On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 9:11:45 AM UTC-7, DS wrote:

 I need the collective wisdom and varied opinions of this group to help 
 me decide, or further confuse me, on the 38mm or 42mm Compass tire for my 
 lightweight wheelset build for my 650b Sam. My other wheelset has Soma 
 Cazaderos. Should I go as wide as I can fit wit the 42mm Babyshoes (are 
 there wider that can fit the sam)? Or stay a little narrower with the 38M 
 Loup Loups? Or even more narrower with they 32m Cypres? This will be used 
 97% of the time on decent to well paved roads.

 Also, if anyone has a lightly used set of any of these for sale let me 
 know ;)

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[RBW] Re: 51cm Sam Hillborne build: advice?

2015-04-30 Thread Zach Duval


 Well, shucks. I wasn't very patient (the frame just looked so naked, which 
 is nice, but I wanted to take her places) so I put in my order yesterday 
 for most everything I didn't have on hand (my day off work coincided with 
 my post's moderation period).


Anyhow, I went with mostly standard fare with some tweaks here and there, 
including a few compromises based on what was available with a discount 
from the shop.

Cockpit: 44cm Nitto noodles, Shimano Tiagra levers, Nitto Technomic stem, 
and I'll be ordering V.O.'s comfy cotton tape (I really dig the feel of 
shellacked cotton) in red or orange

Drivetrain: Sugino X600, 46/36/26 (hoping I like this gearing) with an XT 
front and Deore back, and an XT 9-speed cassette in back (11-34), with 
Duran-Ace bar ends (I want to try indexed bar end shifting, at least once)

Wheelset: front Shimano dyno hub laced to 36h V.O. Diagonale rim, rear V.O. 
touring hub laced to same rim as front (the V.O. stuff here might be 
somewhat of a gamble, but at just over cost I'll give it a shot)

Other: Tektro R559 brakes, still deciding between MKS touring pedals or the 
Thin Gripsters 

And my Brooks B17 Special was planted on immediately after I received the 
frame. Those two are in it for the long haul together...

On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 6:08:50 PM UTC-6, Zach Duval wrote:

 Greetings Riv-owning folks,

 Today my new Sam Hillborne frameset arrived, and I'm beyond stoked to 
 start building 'er up. I opted for only the frameset because I work for a 
 local bike shop and am able to get some pretty sweet deals on components. 
 However, I'm new to the shop and this will be my first build from scratch, 
 so I'm open to advice.

 I'd like the Sam set up with mid-weight touring in mind, with some 
 flexibility to maintain a comfortable and reasonably speedy unloaded ride, 
 and will definitely be going drop-bar style with Noodles.

 My question for you folks is what are some key upgrades I might consider 
 over the standard build kit suggested on Riv's website? What have you 
 learned from outfitting your own Rivs?

 Lay on the Riv wisdom.

 Thanks!






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[RBW] Re: WTB 700c tourish wheels

2015-04-30 Thread drew
thanks for the heads up tim,
that seems like a deal worth looking into






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[RBW] Seriously?

2015-04-30 Thread clyde canter
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rivendell-Water-Bottle-Made-By-Specialized-Large-Green-Vintage-Road-Bicycle-mtb-/281455313119?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item41880b40df

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[RBW] Re: Seriously?

2015-04-30 Thread Ron Mc
careful, he'll take you to task.  He came after me when I cited specific 
examples that I new what he paid and relisted it for 5 times the price.  
I actually have bought one item from him, a Campy Chorus DT friction 
shifter to match the other side I bought in auction.  It was in one of his 
sales and it was realistically priced for my need.  
But when he called me out, he basically called me cheap for only having 
bought one item from him and being such a bad customer.  
He also has friends on almost all the bike board and especially CR, who 
defend him as a purveyor of the hard to find.  
But compared to being his good customer, I take being a bad customer as 
compliment to my intellect.  

On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 12:37:43 PM UTC-5, ccanter wrote:


 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rivendell-Water-Bottle-Made-By-Specialized-Large-Green-Vintage-Road-Bicycle-mtb-/281455313119?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item41880b40df




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[RBW] Re: What do Ricendell riders use for cycling shoes (not clipless).

2015-04-30 Thread Irving (boyzonthehoods.com)
I got a pair of Chrome Mirko's 
http://www.chromeindustries.com/us/en/footwear/forged-rubber-mirko-black-gum 
earlier 
this year as an alternative to Adidas Samba's. They are pretty comfortable, 
but the sole durability and grip seems to be lacking, especially for an $85 
shoe. It's got nice reflective bits on the rear of the shoe but I think I 
may be back to the tried and true Samba's after these bite the dust.

On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 5:39:17 PM UTC-7, Lungimsam wrote:

 What do you all use? 
 Looking for something so I don't feel my rat raps through the soles. 
 Been using sneakers but feet getting a little sore on longer rides.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Broken Crank (Quickbeam)

2015-04-30 Thread Ron Mc
BUT

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/Viner/cbe78ecd-0dea-4b21-90a4-d6a6cf894ff8.jpg

Was the crack coincident with a stamped marking in the crank arm?  


On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 11:10:10 AM UTC-5, Statrixbob wrote:


 On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 5:23 AM, Minh mgian...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote:

 well count yourself lucky that it happened at a pretty innocuous time, 
 imagine if this had happened while bombing down a hill!!  and now consider 
 replacement options


 As far as replacement options go I haven't had time to really take a look 
 at everything yet. I really only ride in 40x16 so the only wear is likely 
 to be there so I may be able to just replace the crankset and have it as 
 is...or I can start getting creative.

 What are other folks running on their Quickbeam/Simpleones?

 Aloha


 -- 
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 Honolulu, HI
 rfhar...@gmail.com javascript:
 statrix.com
 Wu Name: Tha Eurythmic King of Nowhere
  

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Re: [RBW] Seriously?

2015-04-30 Thread David Hallerman
Oh yeh, that eBay seller (pb*bikes) has some nice stuff -- but ALWAYS 
has absurdly high asking prices. In this case, for a used water bottle, 
he sounds off this planet.


Don't know how he makes a go of it, but I'm guessing starts absurdly 
high to encourage some people to buy at simply high prices.


Dave, who personally would never buy a used water bottle from anyone 
even at a low price

+++
Hudson Valley, NY

On 4/30/15 1:37 PM, clyde canter wrote:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rivendell-Water-Bottle-Made-By-Specialized-Large-Green-Vintage-Road-Bicycle-mtb-/281455313119?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item41880b40df


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Re: [RBW] Re: Compass Barlow Pass Tires

2015-04-30 Thread 'Tim' via RBW Owners Bunch
On the subject of pressure: I tried Grand Bois Extra Leger 700x32 before I 
tried Compass. I think the max pressure (printed on the tire) was 90psi. I'm 
not sure, it may have been 100 or 110. At any rate, Jan's instructions with 
those tires were to use higher pressure because of the extremely supple 
sidewalls. I'm not sure why that was the case, and I remember being surprised 
to read that because the lower pressures were a big selling point. 
(Incidentally, those instructions are absent from the Compass tires.) I had 
been riding Jack Browns at around 80psi. I think I ran the GB at 90. I had flat 
issues from the get go. This was on CT spring thaw roads. They also didn't feel 
faster. I was also 50 lbs heavier than I am now, but that's what I weighed on 
the JBs too. So I gave up and went back to JBs. I love the Compass tires now, 
though. In all honesty, however, back before I discovered Riv, I rode 23mm 
tires at 100-110psi and had far, far fewer flats than since I've gone to fatter 
tires. I hate for that to be the case but that's my experience. I won't ever go 
back because I love the tires I ride now. Incidentally, I met a guy on an 
Atlantis on a brevet a few weeks ago. He said he'd had the bike for 7 years and 
never had a flat tire!!! He rode Schwalbes. 

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[RBW] Re: Babyshoe Pass or Loup Loup Pass for my Sam

2015-04-30 Thread Surlyprof
The 38mm Barlow Pass has plenty of clearance with the P50 fenders I'm 
using.  I have sometimes wondered if I should have bought the 32mm Stampede 
Pass tires since they are my go-fastish road tires but the doubts go away 
when I'm riding the BP Extralights.  Smooth and fast enough for my needs.  
Not sure if I would have been confident enough to do SP extralights for 
fear of flats on the smaller, higher pressure tires.  If I'd gotten SPs I 
probably would have bought the heavier regulars to compensate.  Based on 
Jan's research, that seemed like a wash.

John

On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 9:11:45 AM UTC-7, DS wrote:

 I need the collective wisdom and varied opinions of this group to help me 
 decide, or further confuse me, on the 38mm or 42mm Compass tire for my 
 lightweight wheelset build for my 650b Sam. My other wheelset has Soma 
 Cazaderos. Should I go as wide as I can fit wit the 42mm Babyshoes (are 
 there wider that can fit the sam)? Or stay a little narrower with the 38M 
 Loup Loups? Or even more narrower with they 32m Cypres? This will be used 
 97% of the time on decent to well paved roads.

 Also, if anyone has a lightly used set of any of these for sale let me 
 know ;)


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Re: [RBW] Re: Broken Crank (Quickbeam)

2015-04-30 Thread Minh
I'm constantly struggling between treating myself or using something good 
enough.  so i'm using the same model crank that you just broke!  

if you want to treat yourself i recently put on a White Industries crank 
that looks awesome.  
second hand i'm a big fan of the older suntour superbe pro cranks, but 
after your luck maybe a second hand crank is a bad idea



On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 12:10:10 PM UTC-4, Statrixbob wrote:


 On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 5:23 AM, Minh mgian...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote:

 well count yourself lucky that it happened at a pretty innocuous time, 
 imagine if this had happened while bombing down a hill!!  and now consider 
 replacement options


 As far as replacement options go I haven't had time to really take a look 
 at everything yet. I really only ride in 40x16 so the only wear is likely 
 to be there so I may be able to just replace the crankset and have it as 
 is...or I can start getting creative.

 What are other folks running on their Quickbeam/Simpleones?

 Aloha


 -- 
 Robert Harrison
 Honolulu, HI
 rfhar...@gmail.com javascript:
 statrix.com
 Wu Name: Tha Eurythmic King of Nowhere
  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Broken Crank (Quickbeam)

2015-04-30 Thread Robert F. Harrison
I don't have access to the bike (rode my Hunq to work) so I can't take a
look till tonight. I do not remember it being near a stamping, but I also
don't remember what I had for lunch yesterday. :-)

I'll check tonight.

Bob

On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 6:41 AM, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:

 BUT


 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/Viner/cbe78ecd-0dea-4b21-90a4-d6a6cf894ff8.jpg

 Was the crack coincident with a stamped marking in the crank arm?


 On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 11:10:10 AM UTC-5, Statrixbob wrote:


 On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 5:23 AM, Minh mgian...@gmail.com wrote:

 well count yourself lucky that it happened at a pretty innocuous time,
 imagine if this had happened while bombing down a hill!!  and now consider
 replacement options


 As far as replacement options go I haven't had time to really take a look
 at everything yet. I really only ride in 40x16 so the only wear is likely
 to be there so I may be able to just replace the crankset and have it as
 is...or I can start getting creative.

 What are other folks running on their Quickbeam/Simpleones?

 Aloha


 --
 Robert Harrison
 Honolulu, HI
 rfhar...@gmail.com
 statrix.com
 Wu Name: Tha Eurythmic King of Nowhere

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rfharri...@gmail.com
statrix.com
Wu Name: Tha Eurythmic King of Nowhere

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[RBW] Re: Seattle RBWers: Help Buying A CL Bike

2015-04-30 Thread Ryan Fleming
Spec sure sounds awfully nice 
On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 2:54:00 PM UTC-5, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 I came across a what appears to be a great bike at a good price for my 
 son: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/4995383848.html 
 Only problem is that it's in Seattle, and I'm not. 
 Suggestions and/or assistance in procuring it sought. Good shops to work 
 with, someone to eyeball the bike, anything like that. 
 Lots of ways this could go sideways, but I'm excited enough to pursue it.


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[RBW] Re: WTB Nano 2.1 v. Smart Sam 2.1

2015-04-30 Thread Evan Baird
I know i'm being picky, because I really like the 26x2.55 Weirwolf LT, but 
if they may a 26x3 Nano I'd be all over that for my dirt dropper.

On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 1:06:33 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 As an all around tire with an even split of paved, dirt, and trail — 
 anyone ridden both? I have ridden the Smart Sams for over a year now and 
 they are great on all by the pavement where they lag. Hoping the Nano is an 
 improvement without too much loss on the trails. Even if you’ve just ridden 
 the Nano’s I’d love your input. Thanks!

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*
  


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[RBW] Re: What do Ricendell riders use for cycling shoes (not clipless).

2015-04-30 Thread Mark Reimer
Blundstones! Helps that they are waterproof for those 'adventurous' 
rides... I ride them on MKS Lambda pedals with spikes. If I'm expecting 
some serious climbs, I add 'power straps'.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cxVwl92uhjw/VUKb5I7oXGI/Kiw/THwMg37QV4I/s1600/IMG_1958.JPG


On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 2:44:52 PM UTC-5, Braxton Colagross wrote:

 Lunas are pretty much all I wear. Year round and on the bikes. I tell the 
 roadies they're light and make me faster. (From a Hunqapillar.) 

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[RBW] Re: Seriously?

2015-04-30 Thread Philip Williamson
If you had wanted me to be a better customer, you should have been a 
better vendor.

Just my riff on an Anne Lamott quote: If people wanted you to write warmly 
about them, they should have behaved better.
Philip
www.biketinker.com 

On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 10:52:05 AM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:

 careful, he'll take you to task.  He came after me when I cited specific 
 examples that I new what he paid and relisted it for 5 times the price.  
 I actually have bought one item from him, a Campy Chorus DT friction 
 shifter to match the other side I bought in auction.  It was in one of his 
 sales and it was realistically priced for my need.  
 But when he called me out, he basically called me cheap for only having 
 bought one item from him and being such a bad customer.  
 He also has friends on almost all the bike board and especially CR, who 
 defend him as a purveyor of the hard to find.  
 But compared to being his good customer, I take being a bad customer as 
 compliment to my intellect.  

 On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 12:37:43 PM UTC-5, ccanter wrote:


 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rivendell-Water-Bottle-Made-By-Specialized-Large-Green-Vintage-Road-Bicycle-mtb-/281455313119?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item41880b40df




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[RBW] Re: WTB Nano 2.1 v. Smart Sam 2.1

2015-04-30 Thread Mark Reimer
Deacon, I had the Nano 2.1's on my Atlantis for close to a year and thought 
they were the greatest all rounder tire out there...UNTIL I put the 
Schwalbe Thunder Burt's on, which absolutely kill the Nano's IMO. I'm 
running the 2.25 tires (which actually are very close to the same width as 
the Nano's, maybe a few mm wider). They roll much faster on pavement, are 
lighter, have a chunkier side knob for when I hit the trails, and are 
tubeless compatible if that's your thing. I really, really like them. The 
only reason I will ever ride anything else for now is if I am planning a 
long distance pavement ride, where I'd opt for a smooth tire and fenders. 
Other than that, the Thunder Burts are perfect.

On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 3:25:26 PM UTC-5, Evan Baird wrote:

 I know i'm being picky, because I really like the 26x2.55 Weirwolf LT, 
 but if they may a 26x3 Nano I'd be all over that for my dirt dropper.

 On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 1:06:33 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 As an all around tire with an even split of paved, dirt, and trail — 
 anyone ridden both? I have ridden the Smart Sams for over a year now and 
 they are great on all by the pavement where they lag. Hoping the Nano is an 
 improvement without too much loss on the trails. Even if you’ve just ridden 
 the Nano’s I’d love your input. Thanks!

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*
  


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Re: [RBW] Broken Crank (Quickbeam)

2015-04-30 Thread Jason Hartman
In that case, my apologies.
Nice bit of camouflage too.

Jay

On Thursday, April 30, 2015, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:

 Jay, it's only Lambert foils from Cyclomondo.  It was an Anglophile
 splash, disavowing the French connection.


 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/700c/aPA110001.jpg


 On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 8:34:30 AM UTC-5, jay hartman wrote:

 Not to be pedantic, but that looks like the Lambert copy of the TA crank.
 They were designed for their proprietary spindle that was taperless. If you
 were using it on another bottom bracket, it's not surprising that it broke.
 A lot of people get the two cranks confused because they look so similar.

 Jay Hartman


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[RBW] Re: Schwalbe Marathon Almotion Riders

2015-04-30 Thread Deacon Patrick
I've ordered the WTB Nano 29 x 2.1 Racing tires as my next round of tire 
for the Hunqapillar -- we shall see!

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 7:37:24 AM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Do you ride them? In what conditions? How do you like them? Schwalbe 
 describes them as on par for trail and snow with the Smart Sam (I presume 
 because they are supple, because they have no knobbies), but are listed as 
 highest in the fast rolling category. I’m considering switching to them on 
 my Hunqapillar as a better do everything tire.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*
  


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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv Custom mixte - (or any Riv mixte) anyone ride Moustaches or Noodles on theirs?

2015-04-30 Thread Ryan Fleming
Well...mixed surface, anyway. Thinking of 650B, but actually I think the 
Glorii and Wilburies are mostly built around that wheel size. I'm intrigued 
by the compass tires...I do want at least a 38mm...and the bars..I'll 
probably go with the Albas (or if that's too hard to get used to, I have an 
extra NIP set of Moustaches.)
 
Have to re-measure PBH and send my height (and weight) in. Should have 
almost a year to think about what else I want...but I think I'm gonna float 
the boat out
On Saturday, April 25, 2015 at 2:03:31 PM UTC-5, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Congratulations... however it comes out, I bet it will be great! Are 
 you going to be using it for MTB-mixte action? That would be awesome, 
 especially with the M-bars. 

 I'm surprised there is that much variation based on bar choice. Seems 
 like you can get pretty much any bar comfortable on a Riv with a stem 
 change. But I'm only an armchair quarterback on bike designs! 


 On Fri, Apr 24, 2015 at 1:47 PM, Ryan Fleming 
 ryanmallo...@gmail.com javascript: wrote: 
  Butmy bar preference would be for Moustache/Alba or I think I'd like 
  those Noodle bars. I really like the idea of owning a step-through 
  frame...but for bar configurations I really do like to be leaned over 
  slightly 
  
  Now since this is a custom, and Grant says that choice of bars may 
 influence 
  frame design variables (which basis my preliminary questions for Mark A. 
 is 
  very like the Glorious/Wilbury) , I just wondered if anyone else has 
 used 
  set them up with Noodles or Moustache bars.How do you like them? 
 Pictures, 
  too, would be nice if you can show me them. Of course, I know that after 
  buying 2 rivendells, I can safely and happily put mysef in Grant's hands 
 and 
  know that I'll be getting yet another superb bike, and the frame 
  questionnaire does ask a lot of specific questions. But I'm interested 
 in 
  the group's wisdom, too 
  
   Actually, I've been riding moustaches for 25 years now and I have them 
 on 
  my A/R, 93 X0-1 ...of course...and I also have them on my PX-10 
  single-speeder. 
  
  Ryan 
  (getting excited about another Riv in Winnipegdoes it ever stop?) 
  
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 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal 


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[RBW] Re: Broken Crank (Quickbeam)

2015-04-30 Thread Ryan Fleming
Yikes! That's disconcerting! I'm certainly glad you weren't hurt!
On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 9:56:15 AM UTC-5, Statrixbob wrote:

 Oops, I just made the photos public. 

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/mgps-bob/sets/72157652254822642/

 Mea culpa and aloha!

 Bob
 On Apr 29, 2015 5:51 PM, Robert F. Harrison rfhar...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote:

 First let me say...no injuries, no accident, didn't even fall over. 
 Having said that, it was a bit unexpected and I'm terribly grateful it 
 didn't happen this weekend when I rode the 2015 JBK Haleiwa Metric Century 
 on my Quickbeam (and had a great time as documented in another email and 
 at: http://www.statrix.com/2015/04/2015_jbk_ride_report/)

 Anyway, I left work today, hopped on my bike and was going to run a few 
 errands and maybe put in an extra mile or two (and I do mean just a mile or 
 two - but still fun, eh?)

 I was at a light and when stood and pushed off when the light turned 
 green my foot sort of kept going to the ground. Luckily I didn't fall and 
 stopped, though it probably looked clumsy. I couldn't figure out how I'd 
 missed the pedal. 

 I hadn't. My Sugino XD2-QB double 40/32 175mm and come undone. 

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/mgps-bob/sets/72157652254822642/

 I didn't take an image in place. I got the hell off the road. :-)

 I bought the bike in December 2009 and have ridden the heck out of it. 
 I've also mostly been a lot heavier than I am today (also documented in 
 other emails around here). I've gone from 275 to 197, mostly since November 
 2014. If you do the math, the crank mostly got me at my heaviest.

 If you look at the break it seems pretty clear it'd been a while coming. 
 There are definite differences from one side of the break to the other. As 
 I said, I'm really just grateful that it didn't happen on the century this 
 weekend, or in heaving traffic (could have too). It was pretty much a 
 non-event.

 For those who wonder, I have a Hunq that'll be ridden a bit more now. If 
 I'm annoyed with anything it's that I just, and I mean just, ordered some 
 new cork grips from Riv and now will have to order a new crank - twice the 
 shipping charge. If I'd have waited a day or two on the cork grips it could 
 all be one box. Sigh. Luxury problem.

 Anyway I ride the bike almost exclusively in 42x16 mode and figure I'll 
 get new chainrings and a new single speed cassette - all contingent on 
 taking the chain off and actually seeing what things look like - I might be 
 okay.

 As for the Hunq I just had a new dynohub wheel made for it and when I got 
 home instead of playing around the with disassembly the QB I put on the new 
 Eyc light, Top Line rear light, and wired it all up. Tomorrow I have a late 
 ride 'date' and until now only the QB had that much light going for it. :-)

 Aloha, 

 Bob

 -- 
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 Honolulu, HI
 rfhar...@gmail.com javascript:
 statrix.com
 Wu Name: Tha Eurythmic King of Nowhere
  


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[RBW] What do Ricendell riders use for cycling shoes (not clipless).

2015-04-30 Thread Braxton Colagross
Lunas are pretty much all I wear. Year round and on the bikes. I tell the 
roadies they're light and make me faster. (From a Hunqapillar.) 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hillborne + Rock N' Roads + (woody) Fenders

2015-04-30 Thread Jeff Lesperance
On Tue, Apr 28, 2015 at 3:45 PM, Chris Chen cc...@nougat.org wrote:

 Looks awesome!

 I'm always afraid of interrupted fenders because I want to keep junk out
 of the headset, but man, that's really pretty!


Thanks. I felt the same, but know that I want to give these tires a go on
some terrain that needs 'em, so the choice was no fenders or split fenders.
I didn't have a chance to give them a good test yet, save for a short
stretch on my commute where a paved path I normally traverse detoured onto
a stretch of tire sucking deep and loosely packed mulch - for some, a trap,
for me, a pleasant surprise.

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[RBW] Re: Brooks Saddle Repair - Broken Tension Shackle

2015-04-30 Thread Ryan Fleming
I've had  a rail breaknot sure if it was the Campy one-bolt seatpost or 
what...but luckily not when I was riding it.
 
Anyway Wallingford Bicyle parts in New Orleans used to offer Brooks sadlle 
repair and Bill Laine who did them is still the owner...so maybe you could 
email him.
 
Also there's this place in Pennsylvania
 
http://transportcycle.com/pages/brooks-saddles and you can email for a 
quote before you commit. Given that the costs of Brooks saddles have risen, 
and this must be a $300 + saddle new, I can well understand why you'd want 
to repair it.
 
Good luck!
On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 6:48:49 PM UTC-5, SeanMac wrote:

 As I was heading out the door for my bike ride yesterday afternoon I 
 realized that there was a problem with my much loved Brooks Swift 
 (titanium) saddle.  I put my hand on the top of the saddle and noticed an 
 unusual amount of flex.  Upon closer inspection, it was obvious that 
 something was wrong.  It turns out that part of the tension shackle, the 
 part that connects the nose of the saddle to the saddle frame, had broken.  
 Bummer.  

 The saddle has at least 12,000 miles, and the leather is in great shape, 
 so I want to have this problem fixed.  A new tension shackle can be 
 obtained very inexpensively (only $3.50 for the chromed steel version).  
 However, as I have never carried out this repair, I am looking for some 
 guidance / encouragement / advice.  A quick internet search turned up a few 
 good tidbits, but I'm hoping for some help here from the experts.  Is this 
 a relatively easy repair that a mechanic with limited skills can complete 
 or would I be much better off shipping the saddle to a qualified repair 
 expert?

 If this is not a home mechanic job, I would appreciate advice on where to 
 have it fixed - ideally in the USA.

 Thanks,
 Sean


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[RBW] Seattle RBWers: Help Buying A CL Bike

2015-04-30 Thread cyclotour...@gmail.com
I came across a what appears to be a great bike at a good price for my son: 
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/4995383848.html 
Only problem is that it's in Seattle, and I'm not. 
Suggestions and/or assistance in procuring it sought. Good shops to work 
with, someone to eyeball the bike, anything like that. 
Lots of ways this could go sideways, but I'm excited enough to pursue it.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Seriously?

2015-04-30 Thread Jim Bronson
this guy has come up many times in this group.  I've had my run-ins with
him as well.

On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 1:55 PM, Philip Williamson 
philip.william...@gmail.com wrote:

 If you had wanted me to be a better customer, you should have been a
 better vendor.

 Just my riff on an Anne Lamott quote: If people wanted you to write
 warmly about them, they should have behaved better.
 Philip
 www.biketinker.com


 On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 10:52:05 AM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:

 careful, he'll take you to task.  He came after me when I cited specific
 examples that I new what he paid and relisted it for 5 times the price.
 I actually have bought one item from him, a Campy Chorus DT friction
 shifter to match the other side I bought in auction.  It was in one of his
 sales and it was realistically priced for my need.
 But when he called me out, he basically called me cheap for only having
 bought one item from him and being such a bad customer.
 He also has friends on almost all the bike board and especially CR, who
 defend him as a purveyor of the hard to find.
 But compared to being his good customer, I take being a bad customer as
 compliment to my intellect.

 On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 12:37:43 PM UTC-5, ccanter wrote:


 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rivendell-Water-Bottle-Made-By-Specialized-Large-Green-Vintage-Road-Bicycle-mtb-/281455313119?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item41880b40df


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Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!

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[RBW] Re: Seattle RBWers: Help Buying A CL Bike

2015-04-30 Thread cyclotour...@gmail.com
Yeah, it got my attention! From what I've found, it's a bit of a sleeper 
frame, one that gets real good reviews considering a humble lineage:  
http://www.mtbr.com/cat/bikes/bike-hardtail/nashbar/2006-signature-853/prd_414770_96crx.aspx
 I 
think it's basically a de-badged Salsa Ala Carte sold by Nashbar. Real nice 
build with relatively modern components. 26 MTBs are currently at an 
evolutionary dead end, so they're pretty easy to find. Most are aluminum of 
course, with the higher end ones being crabon. A nice Reynolds or True 
Temper steel one is a treat to find!

On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 1:01:22 PM UTC-7, Ryan Fleming wrote:

 Spec sure sounds awfully nice 
 On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 2:54:00 PM UTC-5, cyclot...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

 I came across a what appears to be a great bike at a good price for my 
 son: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/4995383848.html 
 Only problem is that it's in Seattle, and I'm not. 
 Suggestions and/or assistance in procuring it sought. Good shops to work 
 with, someone to eyeball the bike, anything like that. 
 Lots of ways this could go sideways, but I'm excited enough to pursue it.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Broken Crank (Quickbeam)

2015-04-30 Thread Philip Williamson
I have older Shimano 600s with 39/42 rings on my Quickbeam.

Philip
www.biketinker.com 


On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 9:10:10 AM UTC-7, Statrixbob wrote:


 On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 5:23 AM, Minh mgian...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote:

 well count yourself lucky that it happened at a pretty innocuous time, 
 imagine if this had happened while bombing down a hill!!  and now consider 
 replacement options


 As far as replacement options go I haven't had time to really take a look 
 at everything yet. I really only ride in 40x16 so the only wear is likely 
 to be there so I may be able to just replace the crankset and have it as 
 is...or I can start getting creative.

 What are other folks running on their Quickbeam/Simpleones?

 Aloha


 -- 
 Robert Harrison
 Honolulu, HI
 rfhar...@gmail.com javascript:
 statrix.com
 Wu Name: Tha Eurythmic King of Nowhere
  

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[RBW] Re: FS: Spring Cleaning - Round 1. Parts Bags.

2015-04-30 Thread David Banzer
Some items sold. Remaining items are:

Velo Orange Rando Rack - *$50* - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/velo-orange-rando-rack

Dia Compe XCE Brake Levers (1 sets available) - *$10* - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/dia-compe-xce-brake-levers

Nitto Technomic Deluxe Stem - 11cm, 26.0mm - *$35* - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/nitto-technomic-deluxe-stem-26-0mm-11cm

Tektro R538 Brakeset (47-57mm reach) - *$30* - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/tektro-r538-brakeset-silver-47-57mm

Bar Bag/Wedge Set - 2 bags, deluxe-y, leather liners - *$80* - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/front-bar-bag-saddle-wedge-combo-black-w-leather-liner

Boxy Front Bag/Saddlebag - new design for me, 12x8x8, fits on a front rack 
or saddlebag support/saddle - *$100* - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/boxy-front-bag-saddlebag

Small Saddlebag Test Bag - prototype of a new design - *$30* - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/small-saddlebag-prototype-test-bag

BM IQ Cyo PREMIUM Senso Plus Dynamo Light - new - *$83* - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/b-m-iq-cyo-premium-dynamo-light

Medium Saddle Wedge - YELLOW (1 available) OR RED (5 available) - *$25* - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/medium-saddle-wedge-waxed-canvas


On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 10:04:01 AM UTC-5, David Banzer wrote:

 With the anticipation of a tiny new member of the household in the 
 upcoming months, I've been kindly asked to clear out unnecessary bike bits 
 and bags that have been piling up...

 So, Round 1 of Spring Cleaning!
 Same sort of deal that I've done in the past - items are listed on my 
 webstore: treetop.bigcartel.com
 Shipping is a flat $6 per order, shipped USPS Priority Mail so items will 
 arrive quickly.
 I also have other bags there that aren't in the following list, and Willow 
 chainrings (which will go up in price by a few bucks this weekend).
 Please go through the links for photos and info.
 Contact me offlist if you can if you have any questions.
 Payment can be through Paypal or a credit/debit card (without needing to 
 use Paypal).
 Local pickup is fine, just order through the store and I'll refund the 
 shipping charge.

 Thanks,
 David
 Chicago

 Velo Orange Rando Rack - *$50* - 
 http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/velo-orange-rando-rack

 Suntour Thumb Shifter - Power Shifter (left) 6-speed Index/Friction (right 
 - *$15* - 
 http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/suntour-thumb-shifters-friction-index

 Dia Compe XCE Cantilever Brakeset (front  rear) - *$10* - 
 http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/dia-compe-xce-cantilever-brakeset

 Dia Compe XCE Brake Levers (2 sets available) - *$10* - 
 http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/dia-compe-xce-brake-levers

 Nitto Technomic Deluxe Stem - 11cm, 26.0mm - *$35* - 
 http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/nitto-technomic-deluxe-stem-26-0mm-11cm

 Tektro R538 Brakeset (47-57mm reach) - *$30* - 
 http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/tektro-r538-brakeset-silver-47-57mm

 Bar Bag/Wedge Set - 2 bags, deluxe-y, leather liners - *$80* - 
 http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/front-bar-bag-saddle-wedge-combo-black-w-leather-liner

 Porteur Rando Bag - prototype bag - *$75* - 
 http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/porteur-rando-bag

 Boxy Front Bag/Saddlebag - new design for me, 12x8x8, fits on a front rack 
 or saddlebag support/saddle - *$100* - 
 http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/boxy-front-bag-saddlebag

 Small Saddlebag Test Bag - prototype of a new design - *$30* - 
 http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/small-saddlebag-prototype-test-bag

 BM IQ Cyo PREMIUM Senso Plus Dynamo Light - new - *$83* - 
 http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/b-m-iq-cyo-premium-dynamo-light

 Medium Saddle Wedge - YELLOW (1 available) OR RED (5 available) - *$25* - 
 http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/medium-saddle-wedge-waxed-canvas



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[RBW] WTB Nano 2.1 v. Smart Sam 2.1

2015-04-30 Thread Deacon Patrick
As an all around tire with an even split of paved, dirt, and trail — anyone 
ridden both? I have ridden the Smart Sams for over a year now and they are 
great on all by the pavement where they lag. Hoping the Nano is an improvement 
without too much loss on the trails. Even if you’ve just ridden the Nano’s I’d 
love your input. Thanks!

With abandon,
Patrick

www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
www.OurHolyConception.org

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[RBW] Re: Broken Crank (Quickbeam)

2015-04-30 Thread Ron Mc
fwiw, the highest load you ever (always) put on a crank is when you stand 
on one side to take off.  I know a lot of people lead with their right 
foot, but I do the left thing, too.  In the taper area, right-side crank 
arms are usually stronger because there's more medal there.  But that 
doesn't apply to where Bob's broke.  

On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 2:44:38 PM UTC-5, Ryan Fleming wrote:

 Yikes! That's disconcerting! I'm certainly glad you weren't hurt!
 On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 9:56:15 AM UTC-5, Statrixbob wrote:

 Oops, I just made the photos public. 

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/mgps-bob/sets/72157652254822642/

 Mea culpa and aloha!

 Bob
 On Apr 29, 2015 5:51 PM, Robert F. Harrison rfhar...@gmail.com wrote:

 First let me say...no injuries, no accident, didn't even fall over. 
 Having said that, it was a bit unexpected and I'm terribly grateful it 
 didn't happen this weekend when I rode the 2015 JBK Haleiwa Metric Century 
 on my Quickbeam (and had a great time as documented in another email and 
 at: http://www.statrix.com/2015/04/2015_jbk_ride_report/)

 Anyway, I left work today, hopped on my bike and was going to run a few 
 errands and maybe put in an extra mile or two (and I do mean just a mile or 
 two - but still fun, eh?)

 I was at a light and when stood and pushed off when the light turned 
 green my foot sort of kept going to the ground. Luckily I didn't fall and 
 stopped, though it probably looked clumsy. I couldn't figure out how I'd 
 missed the pedal. 

 I hadn't. My Sugino XD2-QB double 40/32 175mm and come undone. 

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/mgps-bob/sets/72157652254822642/

 I didn't take an image in place. I got the hell off the road. :-)

 I bought the bike in December 2009 and have ridden the heck out of it. 
 I've also mostly been a lot heavier than I am today (also documented in 
 other emails around here). I've gone from 275 to 197, mostly since November 
 2014. If you do the math, the crank mostly got me at my heaviest.

 If you look at the break it seems pretty clear it'd been a while coming. 
 There are definite differences from one side of the break to the other. As 
 I said, I'm really just grateful that it didn't happen on the century this 
 weekend, or in heaving traffic (could have too). It was pretty much a 
 non-event.

 For those who wonder, I have a Hunq that'll be ridden a bit more now. If 
 I'm annoyed with anything it's that I just, and I mean just, ordered some 
 new cork grips from Riv and now will have to order a new crank - twice the 
 shipping charge. If I'd have waited a day or two on the cork grips it could 
 all be one box. Sigh. Luxury problem.

 Anyway I ride the bike almost exclusively in 42x16 mode and figure I'll 
 get new chainrings and a new single speed cassette - all contingent on 
 taking the chain off and actually seeing what things look like - I might be 
 okay.

 As for the Hunq I just had a new dynohub wheel made for it and when I 
 got home instead of playing around the with disassembly the QB I put on the 
 new Eyc light, Top Line rear light, and wired it all up. Tomorrow I have a 
 late ride 'date' and until now only the QB had that much light going for 
 it. :-)

 Aloha, 

 Bob

 -- 
 Robert Harrison
 Honolulu, HI
 rfhar...@gmail.com
 statrix.com
 Wu Name: Tha Eurythmic King of Nowhere
  


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[RBW] Re: Compass Barlow Pass Tires

2015-04-30 Thread Mark Reimer
Ron, I just received a pair of the 700c Barlow Pass tires and am mounting 
them on my CX bike, which has Mavic Open Pro rims. I'll report back in a 
few days after I get a couple of rides in. They'll be replacing the 
green-label Jack Brown's, which I have zero complaints about, just wanted 
to see what all the fuss was about :)

On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 7:55:13 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:

 I think dead is a perfect description of Marathons, but they are tough and 
 they are fast.  My best riding buddy wants exactly that on all his bikes 
 and runs his pressures high.  
 I'm curious if anybody has tried Barlows on Mavic Open Pro rims.  I've 
 figured out from experience that the Challange bead is made for skinny 
 rims, and don't bite as well on wider rims like my Synergies.  I've also 
 figured out skinny rims are tougher in the long-run, but not trying to 
 debate that.  

 On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 1:11:18 AM UTC-5, Mike Shaljian wrote:

 I think you need to be more skeptical of the notion that the Marathons 
 are, in fact, significantly more flat-resistant than the Barlows. The 
 higher volume and lower pressure characteristics of the Barlow make it, in 
 my estimation, a very flat resistant tire. I have put probably 3500 miles 
 on Barlows in the past year or so, entirely while living in college towns 
 with lots of broken glass. Like, actually, fairly large bits are all around 
 and ground glass is everywhere where I've been riding. I have not had one 
 flat in that time and I wouldn't say I ride particularly cautiously. I just 
 run the Barlows at 38 in the rear and 34 up front, and I'm 190 lbs. 

 I agree with Patrick, running them at low pressure is almost unsettlingly 
 more comfortable and zippier, in my experience. Marathons always felt so 
 very dead to me, on both a Quickbeam and Sam Hillborne. 



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[RBW] Re: So is it the pedals or is it the shoes that count?

2015-04-30 Thread Clayton.sf
my feet are happiest in some 510 freeriders vxi and vp vice or Canfield 
crampons. 
The keep feet on the pedal and provide enough protection from it to ride double 
centuries without any foot pain.  I walk in minimalist footwear or barefoot To 
keep feet strong, but on the bike I like a sturdier sole. For rides under 60 
miles any comfy shoe works. Even flip flops. For mountainbiking or longer 
distances and for best foot comfort a large platform plus sturdier sole is 
awesomest for me

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[RBW] Mark's Legolas on the Blug - Repainted

2015-04-30 Thread Amit Singh
It looks like flat / matte paint.

I think it's kinda dope. But I still prefer the look of wet paint.

What are your thoughts?

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB Nano 2.1 v. Smart Sam 2.1

2015-04-30 Thread Mark Reimer
Good question. I've only put about 450km on them so far so I can't say for
some time yet.

On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 4:53 PM, Deacon Patrick lamontg...@mac.com wrote:

 How well do the Thunder Burts last?

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 3:11:23 PM UTC-6, Mark Reimer wrote:

 Deacon, I had the Nano 2.1's on my Atlantis for close to a year and
 thought they were the greatest all rounder tire out there...UNTIL I put the
 Schwalbe Thunder Burt's on, which absolutely kill the Nano's IMO. I'm
 running the 2.25 tires (which actually are very close to the same width as
 the Nano's, maybe a few mm wider). They roll much faster on pavement, are
 lighter, have a chunkier side knob for when I hit the trails, and are
 tubeless compatible if that's your thing. I really, really like them. The
 only reason I will ever ride anything else for now is if I am planning a
 long distance pavement ride, where I'd opt for a smooth tire and fenders.
 Other than that, the Thunder Burts are perfect.

 On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 3:25:26 PM UTC-5, Evan Baird wrote:

 I know i'm being picky, because I really like the 26x2.55 Weirwolf LT,
 but if they may a 26x3 Nano I'd be all over that for my dirt dropper.

 On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 1:06:33 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 As an all around tire with an even split of paved, dirt, and trail —
 anyone ridden both? I have ridden the Smart Sams for over a year now and
 they are great on all by the pavement where they lag. Hoping the Nano is an
 improvement without too much loss on the trails. Even if you’ve just ridden
 the Nano’s I’d love your input. Thanks!

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB Nano 2.1 v. Smart Sam 2.1

2015-04-30 Thread Deacon Patrick
That's very encouraging wear data, Patrick! Thank you!

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 5:16:33 PM UTC-6, Patrick Moore wrote:

 FWIW, I've put 1342 miles on my Furious Freds, mostly on loose-ish, 
 soft-ish terrain, but pavement too, and while the rear shows onlh a *tiny* 
 bit 
 of wear, and that only if you are conscientiously looking; even the little 
 center knoblets on the center of the rear carcase are still almost whole.
  

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RE: [RBW] Re: Thinking of a Riv Custom mixte - (or any Riv mixte) anyone ride Moustaches or Noodles on theirs?

2015-04-30 Thread olofstroh
It´s always good to go to the well, in the Riv catalogue 2006 Grant writes:

 

“Our traditionally shaped drop bar for those who for some reason or other 
aren´t as head-over-heels in love with the Nitto Noodle Bars as we are.

It´s a traditional shape, with no super-flattish ramp (it´s 23 degrees, 
compared to the Noodle´s 15 degrees), no swept-back top section (the Noodle´s 
comes back 15 degrees) and a mere 1 degree flare-out at the drops (Noodle: 4 
degrees).

The reach and the drop are about the same as the Noodles – 91 mm and 140 mm 
respectively.”

 

Olof Stroh

Uppsala Sweden

 

-

 

Ryan Fleming wrote

no , it doesn't and I believe the drop is deeper. I have them on my road and 
have to admit I don't spend a lot of time down on the drops...mostly on the 
hoods...and thank you TRP for that or on the tops
On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 4:48:18 PM UTC-5, Jim Bronson wrote:

So on the Dream bars, the top part near the stem does not bend back slightly, 
but the drops are about the same as the Noodles?

--

On Sat, Apr 25, 2015 at 3:28 PM, olof...@gmail.com javascript:  wrote:

I´d just send a warning to believe that you like the Noodle bar if you like the 
Dream bar. They may look alike but behave very differently. I have now three 
Dreams and enjoy them very much. Tried a Noodle and had to sell it since it was 
murder to my wrists, the bend on the top destroyed everything. Your milage may 
be different, but try it out!

Olof Stroh

Uppsala Sweden

 --

https://www.flickr.com/photos/14724719@N08/9427617311/

I have my Betty set up with Dream bars which are very similar to Noodles. Works 
for me.

--Jamie

 

 

 

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[RBW] Re: Seattle RBWers: Help Buying A CL Bike

2015-04-30 Thread bo richardson
i am in bellingham, not seattle. But how i would do this is
ask the owner,  your price, my terms. ask him if he minds taking the bike to 
REI
and having them box and ship. REI ships so many bikes they get good rates on 
shipping. 
Didnt i find that out on the list?
other less good option is Montlake cycles. it was a good shop when Lynne 
Schaefer
bought her bike there in 1988. I expect it still is. closer to owner, but not 
as cheap to ship as REI.
ask REI to look it over and take photos in case shipper damages it.
some shops will inspect the bike and pay the owner out of funds provided by the 
buyer.
Is any of this new information for anyone involved here?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Seattle RBWers: Help Buying A CL Bike

2015-04-30 Thread cyclotourist
Never heard of the REI option, that's a good one! Definitely new
information, thanks!

On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 6:35 PM, bo richardson borus...@gmail.com wrote:

 i am in bellingham, not seattle. But how i would do this is
 ask the owner,  your price, my terms. ask him if he minds taking the
 bike to REI
 and having them box and ship. REI ships so many bikes they get good rates
 on shipping.
 Didnt i find that out on the list?
 other less good option is Montlake cycles. it was a good shop when Lynne
 Schaefer
 bought her bike there in 1988. I expect it still is. closer to owner, but
 not as cheap to ship as REI.
 ask REI to look it over and take photos in case shipper damages it.
 some shops will inspect the bike and pay the owner out of funds provided
 by the buyer.
 Is any of this new information for anyone involved here?

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Cheers,
David

Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace

it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal

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[RBW] Re: Broken Crank (Quickbeam)

2015-04-30 Thread Lungimsam
Bob,

I am glad you didn't get hurt! Let the folks at RBW know, as I think at 
least Grant Petersen would want to see the crank. Seems like he has a great 
love for Sugino cranks and I think he would be interested.

I need to remember to check my cranks from time to time.

Congrats on the metric century, by the way! Looked like a day of fun riding 
in beautiful surroundings!

I can't recommend cranks because I don't know from single speeds. But in 
general, I know Sugino cranks are great, and the new Rene Herse cranks look 
interesting with their same bcd size for all rings, even on their triples, 
and ring replaceability without needing to remove the crank arm. Cool 
feature.

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Re: [RBW] Seattle RBWers: Help Buying A CL Bike

2015-04-30 Thread Jason Hartman
You might even be able to get an even better rate of you are willing to
pick it up at an REI store.

Jay

On Thursday, April 30, 2015, bo richardson borus...@gmail.com wrote:

 i am in bellingham, not seattle. But how i would do this is
 ask the owner,  your price, my terms. ask him if he minds taking the
 bike to REI
 and having them box and ship. REI ships so many bikes they get good rates
 on shipping.
 Didnt i find that out on the list?
 other less good option is Montlake cycles. it was a good shop when Lynne
 Schaefer
 bought her bike there in 1988. I expect it still is. closer to owner, but
 not as cheap to ship as REI.
 ask REI to look it over and take photos in case shipper damages it.
 some shops will inspect the bike and pay the owner out of funds provided
 by the buyer.
 Is any of this new information for anyone involved here?

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[RBW] Re: So is it the pedals or is it the shoes that count?

2015-04-30 Thread Deacon Patrick
I agree with Ron that your foot may be flexing too much, but disagree that 
means you need to increase support. I believe it means you need to decrease 
support and intentionally strengthen your foot.

The arch of the foot is a windlass mechanism. When running it absorbs 
energy on landing, stores it through the foot plant, and returns a healthy 
portion of that energy back in the push off. It's quite amazing. But if the 
foot muscles are weak, it may not be able to hold the lock or push off 
position, which I experience as the best position for forefoot pedaling. On 
the pedal, the foot feels locked and like it does when pushing off when 
running. This differs from a midfoot pedal position which most closely 
resembles the storage/foot plant part of the running stride.

I would suggest you work on strengthening your feet, listening to them as 
to how much is too much. Run also, if you can. Add milage as you feet are 
comfortable. The alternative is that you add support and your feet get 
weaker because of it.

As to the toe tingly, are your shoes wide enough or do the push your big 
toe inward? You may have to really pay attention, because most shoes are 
not foot shaped, so most people are used to having shoes deform their feet 
and not noticing (I sure was).

Wear shoes (ideally minimalist, Zem Terra series are excellent) when you 
need to ( for cold, rock and root safety, fine if it's all the time). But 
don't wear shoes that will further weaken or deform your feet (that have 
support, arent' foot shaped, have a raised heel, or cushioning).

Have fun playing with what works!

With abandon,
Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Seattle RBWers: Help Buying A CL Bike

2015-04-30 Thread cyclotourist
I have one about 1/2 hour away. Depending on the cost, it could be worth it
to ship there and pick up. I'm going to contact the Seattle REI and find
out how it would work with someone dropping a bike off and another party
(me) paying for it to be packed  shipped.

On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 7:34 PM, Jason Hartman rjasonhart...@gmail.com
wrote:

 You might even be able to get an even better rate of you are willing to
 pick it up at an REI store.

 Jay


 On Thursday, April 30, 2015, bo richardson borus...@gmail.com wrote:

 i am in bellingham, not seattle. But how i would do this is
 ask the owner,  your price, my terms. ask him if he minds taking the
 bike to REI
 and having them box and ship. REI ships so many bikes they get good rates
 on shipping.
 Didnt i find that out on the list?
 other less good option is Montlake cycles. it was a good shop when Lynne
 Schaefer
 bought her bike there in 1988. I expect it still is. closer to owner, but
 not as cheap to ship as REI.
 ask REI to look it over and take photos in case shipper damages it.
 some shops will inspect the bike and pay the owner out of funds provided
 by the buyer.
 Is any of this new information for anyone involved here?

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Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace

it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal

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[RBW] Re: So is it the pedals or is it the shoes that count?

2015-04-30 Thread Lungimsam
Yes, the pedal change over the shoe change seems like a better option to 
try first, because, if successful, then I can wear any shoe and not be tied 
to a single shoe for cycling.

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[RBW] Thunder Burt Wisdom...

2015-04-30 Thread Deacon Patrick
Since I have two other tire threads going, I may as well go for the trifecta! 
Grin.

Any and all experiences with Thunder Burts appreciated. I’m trying them out as 
a fast rolling all terraine tire (I know they are a racing tire, viewing it as 
a wide knobby version of the Barlow Pass, sort of — hoping for a smoother, 
faster ride over all terrians).

With abandon,
Patrick

www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
www.OurHolyConception.org

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[RBW] Re: Finally... Albastache!

2015-04-30 Thread Surlyprof
Ryan,

I like them better and I loved the mustache bars I had on a Cross Check 
previously.  Some observations: 
- the Albastache is wider
- the albas extend back further which is nice in the city commute
- the albastache doesn't extend back as far as my albatross bars did so I no 
longer accidently trigger my bar end shifters
- the albas drop less which gives a more upright position when riding through 
the city
- the moustache angled down more in the front so they were a little more 
ergonomic when riding the fronts.

Overall, they have been the best bars I've found for the mixed riding I do.  I 
want to try them more on trails because I thought mustache bars were great for 
that.  I liked the albatross in the city but not as much on the open road.

John

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[RBW] Re: Thinking of a Riv Custom mixte - (or any Riv mixte) anyone ride Moustaches or Noodles on theirs?

2015-04-30 Thread Lungimsam
Jamie, that Betty looks awesome with drops. I like the looks of mixtes with 
drops.

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[RBW] Re: So is it the pedals or is it the shoes that count?

2015-04-30 Thread Deacon Patrick
What is your foot conundrum?

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: So is it the pedals or is it the shoes that count?

2015-04-30 Thread Ron Mc
if you have a sore foot, your arch is flexing too much - some of the energy 
you want to go into the pedals is going into straining your foot.  Sounds 
like you may need a good arch support.  With toe clips or clipless you load 
the ball of your foot and a bike shoe with a shank is everything to avoid 
pain.  An advantage of platforms is you can usually get away with just 
about any shoe, because you can move your foot around on the pedal.  I have 
long ice-skate feet and really like longer platforms.  

On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 9:09:58 PM UTC-5, Lungimsam wrote:

 Trying to solve my sore foot conundrum on longer rides and the more 
 research I do, the more conflicting info I get about whether or not 
 the shoe matters, or the pedal surface does (this is for platforms, not 
 clipless pedals).

 *Weigh in and tell me if you think that with the right kind of platform, 
 you can ride any street shoe you want, no matter how good or atrocious the 
 sole is.*
 *Or, if its the shoe that counts.*

 Interested to know if there really is an answer to this before deciding to 
 sink money into either shoes or pedals first. Experimenting with bike 
 componentry gets expensive fast.

 In Just Ride, the author says its the pedal that counts only. Any footwear 
 works with a good platform pedal.

 *No need to mention the pedal/shoe as others are weighing in on that on 
 another thread here.*
 *No need to mention strength of feet, as we have already covered that 
 issue, and that is a different matter for debate.*

 I remember riding the last three centuries on my MKS Touring pedals. All 
 with different shoes.
 The first pair left me hurting (Old Nike Sneakers).
 The second pair left me hurting (LLBean Mocks).
 The third pair didn't hurt at all on that third century, but now they do 
 when I ride with them (New Nike sneakers).
 I do get other minor foot complaints outside of century riding. So I think 
 a pedal/shoe change is in order.


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[RBW] Re: So is it the pedals or is it the shoes that count?

2015-04-30 Thread sameness
With the right kind of platform, you can ride any street shoe you want, no 
matter how good or atrocious the sole is.

Jeff Hagedorn
Los Angeles, CA USA

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[RBW] Re: 51cm Sam Hillborne build: advice?

2015-04-30 Thread Zach Duval
Also again, I guess this might warrant a whole new thread, but I'd also be 
curious if anyone knows about USB battery packs that might be compatible 
with a dyno hub (to use for charging a cell phone or possibly a netbook).

Thanks!




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Re: [RBW] Thunder Burt Wisdom...

2015-04-30 Thread cyclotourist
They wear pretty good. The middle raised square ridges wear down moderately
fast, outside knobs stay good longer and are usable for a while. Puncture
protection isn't the best, as they're pretty thin. I have some tubeless
29ers I'll rig up eventually.

On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 5:44 PM, Deacon Patrick lamontg...@mac.com wrote:

 Fantastic! How are they lasting you, David?

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 6:37:45 PM UTC-6, cyclot...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 I have them in 27.5. Very fast on road, and as noted in the other thread,
 just enough side knobs to give you some cornering traction on dirt. Love
 'em.

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it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal

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[RBW] So is it the pedals or is it the shoes that count?

2015-04-30 Thread Lungimsam
Trying to solve my sore foot conundrum on longer rides and the more 
research I do, the more conflicting info I get about whether or not 
the shoe matters, or the pedal surface does (this is for platforms, not 
clipless pedals).

*Weigh in and tell me if you think that with the right kind of platform, 
you can ride any street shoe you want, no matter how good or atrocious the 
sole is.*
*Or, if its the shoe that counts.*

Interested to know if there really is an answer to this before deciding to 
sink money into either shoes or pedals first. Experimenting with bike 
componentry gets expensive fast.

In Just Ride, the author says its the pedal that counts only. Any footwear 
works with a good platform pedal.

*No need to mention the pedal/shoe as others are weighing in on that on 
another thread here.*
*No need to mention strength of feet, as we have already covered that 
issue, and that is a different matter for debate.*

I remember riding the last three centuries on my MKS Touring pedals. All 
with different shoes.
The first pair left me hurting (Old Nike Sneakers).
The second pair left me hurting (LLBean Mocks).
The third pair didn't hurt at all on that third century, but now they do 
when I ride with them (New Nike sneakers).
I do get other minor foot complaints outside of century riding. So I think 
a pedal/shoe change is in order.

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[RBW] Re: So is it the pedals or is it the shoes that count?

2015-04-30 Thread Lungimsam
Foot pain from riding, especially on rides more than 40 miles resulting in 
ball of foot puffiness (not see-able, but feels like it when walking after 
riding), and tip of big toe pain, with a little tingly line down the side 
of big toe.

I don't think its good to keep punishing the dogs and its time to try new 
pedals and/or shoes.
I use MKS Touring and sneakers right now.

I opened the other thread on What do Rivendell Riders use for cycling 
shoes (not clipless), in which the issue was touched upon.

I know your take: Strong feet +Vice pedals + bare feet/minimalist shoe like 
coverings = excellent riding!
But alas, I am not as hardy in cold weather riding, so I need to use shoes. 
I do go shoeless inside the house, though and have for the last 18(?) 
years. So I guess I am living 1/2-time barefoot.

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[RBW] Re: 51cm Sam Hillborne build: advice?

2015-04-30 Thread Zach Duval
Thanks for the suggestions, though. 

Also, does anyone have experience running a Supernova headlight, 
particularly the E3 Pure 3? http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/supernova.asp

In response to the bag comment above: I'll be moving my Sackville Med from 
my previous ride to this one. Love that bag (and the small Acorn bag on my 
old Fuji).

On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 6:08:50 PM UTC-6, Zach Duval wrote:

 Greetings Riv-owning folks,

 Today my new Sam Hillborne frameset arrived, and I'm beyond stoked to 
 start building 'er up. I opted for only the frameset because I work for a 
 local bike shop and am able to get some pretty sweet deals on components. 
 However, I'm new to the shop and this will be my first build from scratch, 
 so I'm open to advice.

 I'd like the Sam set up with mid-weight touring in mind, with some 
 flexibility to maintain a comfortable and reasonably speedy unloaded ride, 
 and will definitely be going drop-bar style with Noodles.

 My question for you folks is what are some key upgrades I might consider 
 over the standard build kit suggested on Riv's website? What have you 
 learned from outfitting your own Rivs?

 Lay on the Riv wisdom.

 Thanks!






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Re: [RBW] Re: So is it the pedals or is it the shoes that count?

2015-04-30 Thread cyclotourist
Soft sole shoes need a wider/flatter surfaced pedal to distribute
downforce. Stiff soled shoes can get by with a tiny SPD or Eggbeater type
contact. Sounds like you have a soft sole and two narrow/linear points of
contact (MKS Touring). Either wear firmer-soled shoes, or get a platform
pedal. I'd vote for pedal change over the shoe change.

On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 7:49 PM, Deacon Patrick lamontg...@mac.com wrote:

 I agree with Ron that your foot may be flexing too much, but disagree that
 means you need to increase support. I believe it means you need to decrease
 support and intentionally strengthen your foot.

 The arch of the foot is a windlass mechanism. When running it absorbs
 energy on landing, stores it through the foot plant, and returns a healthy
 portion of that energy back in the push off. It's quite amazing. But if the
 foot muscles are weak, it may not be able to hold the lock or push off
 position, which I experience as the best position for forefoot pedaling. On
 the pedal, the foot feels locked and like it does when pushing off when
 running. This differs from a midfoot pedal position which most closely
 resembles the storage/foot plant part of the running stride.

 I would suggest you work on strengthening your feet, listening to them as
 to how much is too much. Run also, if you can. Add milage as you feet are
 comfortable. The alternative is that you add support and your feet get
 weaker because of it.

 As to the toe tingly, are your shoes wide enough or do the push your big
 toe inward? You may have to really pay attention, because most shoes are
 not foot shaped, so most people are used to having shoes deform their feet
 and not noticing (I sure was).

 Wear shoes (ideally minimalist, Zem Terra series are excellent) when you
 need to ( for cold, rock and root safety, fine if it's all the time). But
 don't wear shoes that will further weaken or deform your feet (that have
 support, arent' foot shaped, have a raised heel, or cushioning).

 Have fun playing with what works!

 With abandon,
 Patrick

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it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal

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Re: [RBW] Re: So is it the pedals or is it the shoes that count?

2015-04-30 Thread cyclotourist
Yep, that's the idea! I know where you can get some MKS Sneaker Pedals
cheap! $20 shipped to your door!

On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 8:11 PM, Lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:

 Yes, the pedal change over the shoe change seems like a better option to
 try first, because, if successful, then I can wear any shoe and not be tied
 to a single shoe for cycling.

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[RBW] Re: So is it the pedals or is it the shoes that count?

2015-04-30 Thread Mike Shaljian
Just buy Sabots or Heiruspecs. Also, +1 on what Patrick said about 
strengthening your feet. I would highly recommend walking and riding in 
minimalist shoes, as I've mentioned on the other thread. Build strength in your 
feet and avoid repetitive stress injuries with a free and stable platform, 
it'll all be good. 

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Re: [RBW] Thunder Burt Wisdom...

2015-04-30 Thread cyclotourist
I have them in 27.5. Very fast on road, and as noted in the other thread,
just enough side knobs to give you some cornering traction on dirt. Love
'em.

On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 5:35 PM, Deacon Patrick lamontg...@mac.com wrote:

 Since I have two other tire threads going, I may as well go for the
 trifecta! Grin.

 Any and all experiences with Thunder Burts appreciated. I'm trying them
 out as a fast rolling all terraine tire (I know they are a racing tire,
 viewing it as a wide knobby version of the Barlow Pass, sort of -- hoping
 for a smoother, faster ride over all terrians).

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*

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it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal

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Re: [RBW] Thunder Burt Wisdom...

2015-04-30 Thread Deacon Patrick
Fantastic! How are they lasting you, David?

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 6:37:45 PM UTC-6, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 I have them in 27.5. Very fast on road, and as noted in the other thread, 
 just enough side knobs to give you some cornering traction on dirt. Love 
 'em.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of a Riv Custom mixte - (or any Riv mixte) anyone ride Moustaches or Noodles on theirs?

2015-04-30 Thread Jim Bronson
So on the Dream bars, the top part near the stem does not bend back
slightly, but the drops are about the same as the Noodles?

On Sat, Apr 25, 2015 at 3:28 PM, olofst...@gmail.com wrote:

 I´d just send a warning to believe that you like the Noodle bar if you
 like the Dream bar. They may look alike but behave very differently. I have
 now three Dreams and enjoy them very much. Tried a Noodle and had to sell
 it since it was murder to my wrists, the bend on the top destroyed
 everything. Your milage may be differnt, but try it out!



 Olof Stroh

 Uppsala Sweden







 https://www.flickr.com/photos/14724719@N08/9427617311/



 I have my Betty set up with Dream bars which are very similar to Noodles.
 Works for me.



 --Jamie



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[RBW] Bay Area Palomares Loop Ride Sunday, May 3

2015-04-30 Thread DS
~30 miles, all paved with dirt option.

9 AM. Dublin Pleasanton BART meetup

I think clockwise is the preferred direction of this one.

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/bay-area-rivendell-riders/pobltL8rPss




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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB Nano 2.1 v. Smart Sam 2.1

2015-04-30 Thread Deacon Patrick
The fact that you have almost 500k on them (a race-ish tire) and aren't 
saying the tread is noticeably gone is a very good sign I presume. Changed 
my order to Thunder Burts.

With abandon,
Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Re: Seriously?

2015-04-30 Thread Joe Bernard
I think I bought a mid-'90s 8-speed Shimano XT crank from him. It was NIP 
and probably a little over-priced, but I dearly love those cranks so I went 
for it. I don't regret the purchase, but a lot of his auctions are simply 
ridiculous. 

On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 1:29:25 PM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:

 this guy has come up many times in this group.  I've had my run-ins with 
 him as well.

 On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 1:55 PM, Philip Williamson philip.w...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote:

 If you had wanted me to be a better customer, you should have been a 
 better vendor.

 Just my riff on an Anne Lamott quote: If people wanted you to write 
 warmly about them, they should have behaved better.
 Philip
 www.biketinker.com 


 On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 10:52:05 AM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:

 careful, he'll take you to task.  He came after me when I cited specific 
 examples that I new what he paid and relisted it for 5 times the price.  
 I actually have bought one item from him, a Campy Chorus DT friction 
 shifter to match the other side I bought in auction.  It was in one of his 
 sales and it was realistically priced for my need.  
 But when he called me out, he basically called me cheap for only having 
 bought one item from him and being such a bad customer.  
 He also has friends on almost all the bike board and especially CR, who 
 defend him as a purveyor of the hard to find.  
 But compared to being his good customer, I take being a bad customer as 
 compliment to my intellect.  

 On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 12:37:43 PM UTC-5, ccanter wrote:


 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rivendell-Water-Bottle-Made-By-Specialized-Large-Green-Vintage-Road-Bicycle-mtb-/281455313119?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item41880b40df


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 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!
  

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[RBW] Re: WTB Nano 2.1 v. Smart Sam 2.1

2015-04-30 Thread Deacon Patrick
How well do the Thunder Burts last?

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 3:11:23 PM UTC-6, Mark Reimer wrote:

 Deacon, I had the Nano 2.1's on my Atlantis for close to a year and 
 thought they were the greatest all rounder tire out there...UNTIL I put the 
 Schwalbe Thunder Burt's on, which absolutely kill the Nano's IMO. I'm 
 running the 2.25 tires (which actually are very close to the same width as 
 the Nano's, maybe a few mm wider). They roll much faster on pavement, are 
 lighter, have a chunkier side knob for when I hit the trails, and are 
 tubeless compatible if that's your thing. I really, really like them. The 
 only reason I will ever ride anything else for now is if I am planning a 
 long distance pavement ride, where I'd opt for a smooth tire and fenders. 
 Other than that, the Thunder Burts are perfect.

 On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 3:25:26 PM UTC-5, Evan Baird wrote:

 I know i'm being picky, because I really like the 26x2.55 Weirwolf LT, 
 but if they may a 26x3 Nano I'd be all over that for my dirt dropper.

 On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 1:06:33 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 As an all around tire with an even split of paved, dirt, and trail — 
 anyone ridden both? I have ridden the Smart Sams for over a year now and 
 they are great on all by the pavement where they lag. Hoping the Nano is an 
 improvement without too much loss on the trails. Even if you’ve just ridden 
 the Nano’s I’d love your input. Thanks!

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*
  


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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB Nano 2.1 v. Smart Sam 2.1

2015-04-30 Thread Patrick Moore
FWIW, I've put 1342 miles on my Furious Freds, mostly on loose-ish,
soft-ish terrain, but pavement too, and while the rear shows onlh a *tiny* bit
of wear, and that only if you are conscientiously looking; even the little
center knoblets on the center of the rear carcase are still almost whole.

PDG for a 360 gram -- actual, on mail scale, for all 3 of the tires I
bought; one is a spare -- 2 X 29 tire! But I'm very interested in the
Thunder Burts for a bit more traction -- after I wear out the FFs.

I would guess that the TBs will be at least as durable.

I am not a huge tester of tire makes and models, but having put
considerable miles on 4 different Schwalbe models -- Kojak wire and kevlar
(carcase the same on wire and kevlar bead models, says Schwalbe rep), Big
Apple wire (26 and 29) and LiteSin (29, and Furious Freds -- I have to say
that they must be among the top for combining good rolling with durability
and flat resistance (the BAs and Kojaks are very flat resistant, in
goathead land, compared to other tires of similar weight, and they roll
very well for their bulk and build.

On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 4:16 PM, Deacon Patrick lamontg...@mac.com wrote:

 The fact that you have almost 500k on them (a race-ish tire) and aren't
 saying the tread is noticeably gone is a very good sign I presume. Changed
 my order to Thunder Burts.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Compass Barlow Pass Tires

2015-04-30 Thread Ron Mc
thanks Mark

On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 4:20:37 PM UTC-5, Mark Reimer wrote:

 Ron, I just received a pair of the 700c Barlow Pass tires and am mounting 
 them on my CX bike, which has Mavic Open Pro rims. I'll report back in a 
 few days after I get a couple of rides in. They'll be replacing the 
 green-label Jack Brown's, which I have zero complaints about, just wanted 
 to see what all the fuss was about :)

 On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 7:55:13 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:

 I think dead is a perfect description of Marathons, but they are tough 
 and they are fast.  My best riding buddy wants exactly that on all his 
 bikes and runs his pressures high.  
 I'm curious if anybody has tried Barlows on Mavic Open Pro rims.  I've 
 figured out from experience that the Challange bead is made for skinny 
 rims, and don't bite as well on wider rims like my Synergies.  I've also 
 figured out skinny rims are tougher in the long-run, but not trying to 
 debate that.  




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[RBW] Re: Compass Barlow Pass Tires

2015-04-30 Thread Ty Graham
Hey, I just wanted to add my $.05.

I've been riding Barlow Pass on my 64cm Atlantis for as long as they've 
been available.  Great tires.  Love the ride.

I've been a Jack Brown guy. Also a GB Cypres guy.  I have Marathon Supremes 
mounted on a spare wheelset, but I just hate the ride; too dead.

My normal Barlow Pass are the ELs.  Best tire ever.  Feels like the tire 
the bike was made for.

Last October I rode 900 miles to San Francisco down the coast. I used 
Barlow Pass regular on my mechanic's recommendation. Loaded weight of bike, 
rider, baggage, water, etc. was 310lbs. Great ride on all kinds of roads 
and not a single flat!

I would have kept with the Barlow just for the great ride. Now that I've 
experienced the reliability, I'm totally sold.

Here's a pic: https://flic.kr/p/priht2

Ty Graham
Seattle

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Re: [RBW] Re: Babyshoe Pass or Loup Loup Pass for my Sam

2015-04-30 Thread Jim Bronson
That was supposed to read Hetres or Babyshoe Pass need 50mm fenders
minimum IMO

The LoupLoups work fine with P45s, I am running that setup myself.

On Wed, Apr 29, 2015 at 3:16 PM, Jim Bronson jim.bron...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hetres or LoupLoup pass need 50mm fenders minimum, IMO.
 On Apr 29, 2015 3:05 PM, Lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:

 I use Hetres at 50psi on my 52 Blue Sam with P45 fenders, raised as far
 from the tire as the frame allows with mounting from the fender tab on the
 front fender, and mounting the fender directly to the eyelet under the seat
 stay bridge with a bolt.

 I am hoping to put Loups on for my next set, as they will allow more
 clearance under fenders. It is pretty tight. Most would probably think it
 is ok, and it has been great, but I like lots of clearance.

 I also have a Bleriot that I have used Hetres as well as Loups on. The
 Loups feel plenty cushy at 45psi. Allows much more clearance under the
 fenders than the Hetres did. I think the Hetres get me 1cm all around, the
 Loups get me a lot more.

 *So, I think both tires have a comparable ride quality at these
 pressures, but just decide if you like more clearance under fenders or not.
 Disclaimer: I weigh about 175lbs. I don't know how they will feel in
 another weight class and at different pressures.*

 The Cypress will allow massive overkill fender clearance. I had them on
 my Sam for a short time, and they were nice at 50 or 55 psi, if I remember
 right. But you won't get as good ability to road through cracked roads with
 tires that narrow, from my experience

 But again, all these tires are great. I like them at low pressures.

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[RBW] Re: Finally... Albastache!

2015-04-30 Thread Ryan Fleming
I think that eggplant looks great...and as a long-time moustache rider , 
I'm interested in your experince with the Albas...and I know that Patrick 
Deacon likes them a lot, too. So I'm thinking of those for the mixte I've 
planned
On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 12:40:23 AM UTC-5, Surlyprof wrote:

 Andrew,

 I'm really loving the ride.  Took a few miles to adjust to the new body 
 position but then I was free to enjoy the new sensation and handling (note: 
 Sean at Riv suggested dropping 30mm in stem length and he was right on the 
 money... 40mm would have been too far).  I've wanted a Riv for years 
 because I wanted that feeling I used to get on my bike when I was a kid.  
 The Albastache bars seemed to complete that feeling.  Makes me think of the 
 recent photo Patrick posted of him flying through a puddle on his 
 Hunqapillar.  He seems totally immersed in the fun of the moment.  Now I 
 understand why he likes those bars so much.  The Albatross bars are wildly 
 comfortable and were great on the commute when I rode through the city 
 streets but I could never fully get the feeling of really opening it up 
 when I wanted to go fast.  Still ended up feeling a little like Pee Wee 
 Herman in the Tour de France.  When I did ride holding the front curves 
 they angled the wrong way which would feel awkward quickly.  The Albastache 
 have just the feeling I was looking for.  When I ride the front bends it 
 feels a little more aggressive without being all the way down in a set of 
 drops (which I rarely used on previous bikes).  The upright position isn't 
 quite as good as the Albatross for seeing and being seen but it seems to 
 get me up high enough and is a happy trade off for the exhilarating feeling 
 I got zipping around students on campus and leaning into a turn on the 
 commute home today.  I like the width much better than my old Mustache 
 bars.  If I could alter anything on the Albastache, I might add just a 
 shade more drop like the old Mustache bars had.  Even that I'm not sure 
 about since it might drop the ends farther down than I want them on the 
 commute.  I honestly think Riv and Nitto may have nailed it with the 
 Albastache.  Good for the commute with all the zippy, racy feeling I will 
 ever want or need.  

 Inner child approved!

 John

 PS: The wife just told me that she thought I may have just a little too 
 much going on visually with the purple handlebars.  We will agree to 
 disagree.  Unless I miss the softer feel of the Brooks, the eggplant 
 Newbaum's may be around for a while on my shiny, orange Riv!

 On Tuesday, April 28, 2015 at 7:17:21 PM UTC-7, BSWP wrote:

 Nice looking, but how do they* ride*? Glad you switched over? I like the 
 extra width, the longer pull back, and the slightly flatter front, 
 definitely considering returning to the 'stache club on a new bike, now 
 that Alba's available.

 - Andrew, Berkeley

 On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 12:00:20 PM UTC-7, Surlyprof wrote:

 I've been wanting to try Albastache bars since I got my Hillborne.  
 Finally broke down and took the plunge this weekend.  I usually put down a 
 layer of Newbaum's to strap the cables down before adding my Brooks leather 
 tape.  When I was at Rivendell purchasing the bars I had a wacky notion to 
 buy the eggplant-colored Newbaum's instead of black or natural.  Now that 
 it is on, I'm hesitant to put the Brooks tape back on!  
 https://www.flickr.com/photos/129545862@N03/17290439362/

 John



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Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of a Riv Custom mixte - (or any Riv mixte) anyone ride Moustaches or Noodles on theirs?

2015-04-30 Thread Ryan Fleming
no , it doesn't and I believe the drop is deeper. I have them on my road 
and have to admit I don't spend a lot of time down on the drops...mostly on 
the hoods...and thank you TRP for that or on the tops
On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 4:48:18 PM UTC-5, Jim Bronson wrote:

 So on the Dream bars, the top part near the stem does not bend back 
 slightly, but the drops are about the same as the Noodles?

 On Sat, Apr 25, 2015 at 3:28 PM, olof...@gmail.com javascript: wrote:

 I´d just send a warning to believe that you like the Noodle bar if you 
 like the Dream bar. They may look alike but behave very differently. I have 
 now three Dreams and enjoy them very much. Tried a Noodle and had to sell 
 it since it was murder to my wrists, the bend on the top destroyed 
 everything. Your milage may be differnt, but try it out!

  

 Olof Stroh

 Uppsala Sweden

  

  

  

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/14724719@N08/9427617311/

  

 I have my Betty set up with Dream bars which are very similar to Noodles. 
 Works for me.

  

 --Jamie

  

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 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!
  

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[RBW] Re: Brief Apology to the Forum

2015-04-30 Thread Montclair BobbyB
Well OK...  Just don't let it happen again *(unless it's something really 
cool like these woody fenders)...* 

On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 11:44:18 PM UTC-4, hsmitham wrote:

 Jim, 

 If you keep this up the cyber cops will be knocking at your door! And we 
 know how they can get  

 ~Hugh honest is wasn't me officer Smitham

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Re: [RBW] WTB 700c tourish wheels

2015-04-30 Thread Tim Gavin
If you want dynamo and less than $200, here's a new set (from Germany, $23
shipping)
http://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/shimano-custom-made-wheel-set-28-with-dynamo-dh-t780-mavic-a319-59527?currency=5delivery_country=191.
XT Trekking hubs (dynamo front), Mavic 319 rims, 32 holes, butted spokes.
Says not available, but this shop updates their availability often.

I picked up the 26 version of these wheels
http://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/shimano-custom-made-wheelset-26-with-dynamo-dh-t780-mavic-xm317-52011/wg_id-507
and am pleased.

However, I can feel more resistance from the DH-T780 dynamo in this set,
compared to the DH-3N80 that I bought at the same time and laced into a new
PL23 for my Riv.  Same light on both setups (Luxos U).  I haven't adjusted
the bearing preload yet, so maybe the cones are just a bit tight on the XT
dynamo.

Tim

On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 12:32 AM, drew drewbeckme...@gmail.com wrote:

 ok, gonna come at this wheel issue another way. previously i was looking
 for an ultra cheap pair to put on a bike im selling. nothing was really
 happening below the 75$ mark, so now im thinking i might want to put my
 most so-so/used up wheels on that bike as part of the sale and dedicate the
 money to a new-to-me wheelset for a sam h. i'd like to spend between
 150$-200$. maybe you've got something you don't need anymore. maybe, like
 me, you want to upgrade to something better than what you've got, but what
 you've got would be good for me.

 *ideally, looking for*
 -something good for light touring and occassional dirt. strong like.
 -36 spoke or 32fx36r, 135 rear spacing
 -room for 38-50mm tires.
 -7-9speed cassette
 -dynamo might be cool. ive never had a dynamo set up. might not be in the
 budget though, and definitely not a necessity.
 -low miles

 also, i guess if you have just one wheel, i wouldn't mind mixing and
 matching, though that can sometimes jack up the cost in the long run.


 i have an xd2-600 triple crank and some cromo albatross bars, if you want
 to do a partial trade too.

 thanks!




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[RBW] Re: What do Ricendell riders use for cycling shoes (not clipless).

2015-04-30 Thread Surlyprof
+1 on the Keens.  Keen Newports and Newport H2's are really nice.  Comfy 
walking, waterproof for stream crossings and a step better than sneakers 
when riding (IMHO).  The toe protection is what I particularly like when 
riding.  The idea of scraping a toe as Leslie recounted sounds painful.  

John

On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 6:28:09 AM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:

 my daughter likes her airy Keens (I'm not sure of the model), which also 
 have good toe protection and good arch support 


 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/estes/bike/aleoncreektrailhead.jpg


 On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 8:22:11 AM UTC-5, Nancy Seibel wrote:

 I use Salomon women's XR mission running/trail shoes.

 On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 8:39:17 PM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:

 What do you all use? 
 Looking for something so I don't feel my rat raps through the soles. 
 Been using sneakers but feet getting a little sore on longer rides.



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