Re: [RBW] Measuring Frame Angles

[Tony DeFilippo]

Thanks Erl! Not this trip, I'm down here to help out while she recovers
from hip surgery so unfortunately she'll be out of action for a while.
She's doing really well though and I'm able to get out for some decent
length rides.

Tony

On Tue, Nov 17, 2015 at 5:53 AM WETH  wrote:

> Tony,
> You have the bike built up nicely.  The area around your mom's looks
> lovely.  Any mother and son rides planned?
> Thanks for sharing the tool.  I can see hours of fun measuring and
> comparing some of my mystery frames/bikes.
> Thanks,
> Erl
>
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[RBW] Re: The "new" triple on my Cheviot -- does the big ring look worn out to you?

[Dave Johnston]

In my best Crocodile Dundee voice: "That's not a worn ring ... That's a 
worn ring!"
Actually just an excuse to show the ring guard I made. My Girlfriend wasn't 
using her big ring at all, preferring to coast or even use the brakes (:o) 
on descents. She was however catching the teeth on her pants. I haven't 
adjusted the F. derail down because that's where it was previously to give 
good shifting. Now 39-26




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Re: [RBW] Re: It was a nice day for...

[Ron Mc]

good answer Tony, there's really no use in trying to educate people who 
have no reason to listen.  In any single-person gear-intensive activity 
there *can* be a snob factor about the gear.  Doesn't have to be and it's 
always a test of personalities.  It's rich in fly fishing.  In both 
sport/entertainment groups, there are industry marketing factors that 
promote it.  I fish with vintage (and a couple of new) cane rods, because I 
like the way they fish (like we ride steel bikes, because we like the way 
they ride).  I also have a hobby business repairing antique fly reels. 
 Often on the river, I run across people defensively expecting me to be a 
snob because of my choice.  
1932 FE Thomas Special rod matched with a c. 1940 Young pattern 15a reel, 
which was also imported and sold as the Thomas Special reel (this rig 
fished on tv, for an episode of Trout Unlimited On the Rise).  



No question, you pass and get passed by at least a few people who smirk and 
look down their noses at their pigeonhole of your upright bike.  This 
doesn't seem to happen when I'm on my drop-bar Moser.  I pass many casual 
riders on road bikes and of course get passed by many serious riders.  I 
few bright individuals recognize the set-up and make honest 
comments/compliments.  Then there is also a hollow, not quite 
condescending, "nice bike" that seems to automatically come from passing 
club riders - and it's not offensive, it's intended to be encouraging.   
And don't get me wrong, I've had many great conversations with the guy on 
the left.  There are more nice folks on bikes than otherwise.  

If you do go the Jitensa/Map/Mary route, there are three width choices 
(listed narrow to wide).  That's the first choice to make.  The width of my 
615 mm Map bar is an important part of my joy.  I'm also a pretty big guy, 
46-inch chest, and these are my correct size.  
Regards

On Monday, November 16, 2015 at 9:14:49 PM UTC-6, Tony DeFilippo wrote:
>
> My albatross bars garner similar comments.  Invariably the conversation 
> goes like this;
>
> Co-worker/aquatence - Oh, you ride your bike to work, what kind of bike do 
> you have?
> Me - It's a steel bike made by Rivendell, kind of a fat tired road bike 
> with swept back handlebars...
> C-W/A - So it's a hybrid?
> Me - (pause)... yeah pretty much.
>
> I do really like the looks of those Jitensha-like upright bars though... 
> might have to give that a try sometime.
>

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[RBW] Measuring Frame Angles

[WETH]

Tony,
You have the bike built up nicely.  The area around your mom's looks lovely.  
Any mother and son rides planned?
Thanks for sharing the tool.  I can see hours of fun measuring and comparing 
some of my mystery frames/bikes.
Thanks,
Erl

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[RBW] WTB - Luxos - B headlight and dyno taillight

[JohnS]

Anyone have a Luxos - B headlight that they would be willing to sell? I'm 
also interested in the dyno taillight which Riv sells. I have this set up 
currently on my Salsa Casseroll and love the convenience of not having to 
deal with batteries, just hop on and go. So I would like to have the same 
set up on my Surly Big Dummy. I've been using rechargeable lithium 
batteries for the past 6 years and have had enough of them. I know that 
it's not very likely that someone will have one, but I thought I would try 
here first before placing an order at Riv.
 
Thanks!
JohnS
 

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Re: [RBW] Velocity Cliffhanger 650B Rim experience?

[Philip Kim]

They seem to overlap a bit, but I think most rims can have multiple 
applications.

Tony, I would go Cliff Hangers if I were you. Would widen out the tires 
more and be more plush. If I could fit Hans Dampfs in the frame, it would 
be all the suspension I needed.

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Re: [RBW] Re: It was a nice day for...

[Tony DeFilippo]

Thanks for the sizing tip Ron!  Your analogy to fly fishing is a good one,
I find myself consistently attracted to the traditional niche's in other
hobbies and interests as well... b/w film, manual focus, prime lenses and
so forth in photography, traditional/recurve archery (a budding interest),
pour over coffee... basically anything that has a record of durability,
requires a bit more time/effort and has a bit of romance/nostalgia to it.
Even in choosing our current home my wife and I were both attracted to more
traditional layouts and older styles.

Then again there are some fresh new things like this online community and
all the tech that makes it possible that are certainly worth having to!

Tony

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[RBW] Re: The "new" triple on my Cheviot -- does the big ring look worn out to you?

[Lynne Cooney]

I love it. Another "I didn't stand my ground" decision that is going to 
cost me. I don't need a triple. I will NEVER use that big ring. NEVER. So 
even if it WAS worn, it would not matter. I shifted up to it once, to make 
sure the FD worked (it didn't, but it didn't shift DOWN the small ring that 
I DO use).

I used to ride fast. I never really wanted to, but I did want to ride far. 
My options were: ride alone, or ride fast with the roadies. I was hit by a 
car head-on with the car going about 55mph. The PTSD from that is real -- 
car crashes are the leading cause of PTSD. Four and a half years later, I 
have even less interest in ever riding fast. So what the hell am I ever 
going to do with a 48 tooth ring? "You're in Seattle, you need a triple." 
No, I don't.

Not really the shop's fault. They asked what my opposition to the triple 
was and I said "I just don't need one." But I also said "I'll try it." 
Tried. I was right, I don't need it. I don't need so many damn gears, 
either. I have not ridden a derailleur bike in about 4.5 years (guess what 
happened to that bike?). I do most of my getting around -- in hilly 
Seattle, where this is supposed to be impossible -- on a 27 pound 3-speed 
Brompton. Yeah, I walk up some hills. And every time I think "maybe I 
should have gotten that six-speed," I ride it and, eh, it's fine. It is 
still my most-used bike and it will probably stay that way. My other bikes 
are an 8-speed Retrovelo and a 3-speed Raleigh Sports. 

On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 4:30:08 AM UTC-8, Dave Johnston wrote:
>
> In my best Crocodile Dundee voice: "That's not a worn ring ... That's a 
> worn ring!"
> Actually just an excuse to show the ring guard I made. My Girlfriend 
> wasn't using her big ring at all, preferring to coast or even use the 
> brakes (:o) on descents. She was however catching the teeth on her pants. I 
> haven't adjusted the F. derail down because that's where it was previously 
> to give good shifting. Now 39-26
>
>
>
> 
>

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[RBW] Re: Show me your Garage/Workshop/Cave/Storage Spaces

[Montclair BobbyB]

Drool...

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[RBW] Re: The original Riv mixte

[Lynne Cooney]

I'd buy it if I had not learned yesterday that I have to pay my son's 
tuition next quarter. Thanks, State of Alabama!

On Monday, November 16, 2015 at 10:30:15 PM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I'd pay it for an original red one, but that color combination is...no.

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[RBW] Re: Show me your Garage/Workshop/Cave/Storage Spaces

[William R.]

Hi. I really enjoy looking at everyone's garage/spaces! Terrific, inspiring 
stuff! I figure I will show my space/cave. A bit embarrassed to show this 
working mess! But, you know, it's the one area in my life where I don't 
have to adhere to anyone else's rules. So this is what happens! Once or 
twice a year I will thoroughly clean and organize. Then it slowly works 
itself back to this natural state. Our little family is packed into this 
house that has no garage. So when we first bought it and moved in I staked 
my claim on this corner of the basement. Bikes shown are 1x9 Soma GR w/SB 
Hills, VO Poly V, Trek "Cruiser" (my one bike I don't mind being called 
that!), my wife's Betty Foy, son's Isla, son's old Kona now my daughters 
bike (soon to be festooned with pink grips, saddle and pedals!). Still, 
plenty of room for Joe Appaloosa! Take all this as a warning for what could 
happen to you. Or a dream depending on your point of view.

Bill in Westchester, NY







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[RBW] OT: fishing equipments and accessories help

[franklyn]

Dear list,

This is definitely an OT post. I am posting because I know some folks here 
are into fishing. My father-in-law passed away recently and left my wife 
and me some stuff to sort through. Among his things are tons of fishing 
equipments--lures, reels, rods. Neither my wife nor I is into fishing so we 
don't even know what we are looking at in some cases. What my wife does 
know is that he used to do some fishing when he was younger but stopped 
because of his disability. But he continued for a while to collect things, 
so many of the items are new and unused. 

What I would like is some advice. Basically an order of magnitude and a 
high-level assessment of what things are. After that we can know what's the 
best way to dispose of them. Ideally, there is someone who lives nearby (I 
live in Berkeley, CA) and don't mind coming over to my garage and take a 
look. If not, I can take some photos of the stuff in time and send to the 
kind folks willing to help me. 

I know that some here are into fishing, and also I have generally a good 
level of trust for people on this list. That's why I am posting.

thanks for your understanding,

Franklyn
Berkeley, CA

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Re: [RBW] Re: The original Riv mixte

[Ryan Fleming]

Also ..you could get a Mark Nobilette custom Glorius painted by Riv's local 
painter for $3000 at one time.  so NIB Wilbury for $2100  by Toyo...might 
be a tad pricey but less than 3K I'd pick a different colour though like a 
maroon or oxblood

http://rivbike.tumblr.com/post/110929133654/things-in-the-works-hey-please-buy-a-t-shirt
  


And I'm still holding out for that custom Mixte...just have to do the 
measurements and fill out the form but I got the price of the frame + some 
parts in US $  when the loonie was a couple of cents higher than it is now

On Monday, November 16, 2015 at 10:56:25 AM UTC-6, Pudge wrote:
>
> Well, the current price on a Homer or Atlantis is $2300, and the Wilbury 
> was likely more complicated to build (mixte frame, incredibly intricate 
> lugs), so you're probably right that it's not out of line.  It really is a 
> beautiful frame.  
>
>  
>
> *From:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com  [mailto:
> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com ] *On Behalf Of *
> cyclot...@gmail.com 
> *Sent:* Monday, November 16, 2015 11:51 AM
> *To:* RBW Owners Bunch
> *Subject:* [RBW] Re: The original Riv mixte
>
>  
>
> Beautiful colors on it. 
>
>  
>
> Maybe not that bad a price for NIB never built?
>
>  
>
>
>
> On Monday, November 16, 2015 at 7:29:29 AM UTC-8, Pudge wrote:
>
> Very pretty, but a bit pricey.  
> http://hartford.craigslist.org/bik/5250204541.html
>
>  
>
> The owner has tried selling this several times on craigslist in the last 
> few years, I'm pretty sure.
>
> --
>  
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[RBW] Riv Sighting- los angeles/studio city

[drew]

on moorpark st. 
double top tube, albatross bars.  i was (sadly) in my car. looked like a 
big bike. figured it might be someone here.

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[RBW] Re: OT: fishing equipments and accessories help

[franklyn]

I want to add that money isn't the primary motive for us here. My 
father-in-law treasured this stuff and held on to them to the end even 
though his fishing days were long gone. We just want to try to take of 
these things with some care. 

best,
Franklyn

On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 8:50:32 AM UTC-8, franklyn wrote:
>
> Dear list,
>
> This is definitely an OT post. I am posting because I know some folks here 
> are into fishing. My father-in-law passed away recently and left my wife 
> and me some stuff to sort through. Among his things are tons of fishing 
> equipments--lures, reels, rods. Neither my wife nor I is into fishing so we 
> don't even know what we are looking at in some cases. What my wife does 
> know is that he used to do some fishing when he was younger but stopped 
> because of his disability. But he continued for a while to collect things, 
> so many of the items are new and unused. 
>
> What I would like is some advice. Basically an order of magnitude and a 
> high-level assessment of what things are. After that we can know what's the 
> best way to dispose of them. Ideally, there is someone who lives nearby (I 
> live in Berkeley, CA) and don't mind coming over to my garage and take a 
> look. If not, I can take some photos of the stuff in time and send to the 
> kind folks willing to help me. 
>
> I know that some here are into fishing, and also I have generally a good 
> level of trust for people on this list. That's why I am posting.
>
> thanks for your understanding,
>
> Franklyn
> Berkeley, CA
>

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Re: [RBW] Measuring Frame Angles

[iamkeith]

I use a free ap on an android phone, called Smart Protractor Light.   It's 
pretty sensitive so, obviously, you need to be on a level surface and make 
sure the bike is perfectly plumb.   Works best if you have a phone that 
doesn't have buttons protruding from the side, or if you fit around them 
with sort of spacers, like popsicle sticks.  That Chrome ruler is neat 
though - thanks for posting.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=kr.sira.protractor.

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[RBW] The Albastache'd Clem, 150 Mile Update

[Zed Martinez]

Well, 142. It'll be 150 by the day's end. Thought I'd shoot a quick update 
out into to ether here for anyone that was curious how it was working out 
with my odd touring/commute-y albastache Clem build. It's been a pretty 
rough couple weeks to dial in a new bike, with a mild leg injury that's 
just recently let me get back to full stride and quite a lot of wind when I 
did ride. But, I've had a chance now to get the fit dialed in where I like 
it and a few longer rides (20 mile fun jaunts) and a few days doing my 
usual commute. I've been down various road surfaces, some gravel jogging 
trails, a little detour through some dirt wooded paths (more pedestrian, 
less singletrack), and some other mixed stuff. I've had sun, head wind, 
tail wind, rain, and even now as of this morning a flat. So, it's still way 
too early to really know the nature of the thing, but finally been through 
enough to have some early thoughts.

Mostly, I have to say, if anything the frame just feels neutral to me. 
Haven't ridden a huge amount of bikes, but a mixed handful, and it's my 
first Riv so there's that. But aside from the peculiar geometry behind the 
long top tube and high bars, most of what I'm feeling as impressions have 
to do with the components the frame let me use more than anything intrinsic 
in it. But, I suppose that's true of most frames. The big thing about the 
Clem geometry for me is still the long sloped top tube. Combined with the 
albastache I have a really novel riding posture that's just like using the 
albastaches on a lower, longer stem was on an 80's road bike, except higher 
so now all the pressure on my hands when riding upright is gone. Still 
really weird to wrap my head around how similar it feels to the previous 
build, just without the hand pressure.

Previous build the Clem replaced:


And the Clem finally dialed in:




Essentially the same reach, just now as much higher than the saddle as it 
previously was lower. Neat geometry, really. Certainly not just locked into 
the "cruiser"s I suspect so many would view it as (especially reading the 
chatter on the other thread about how any bike with upright bars is 
basically a cruiser anyway). The other thing about the geometry that 
matters is the long chain stays, but they do about what you'd expect. Less 
bumps get transmitted to the saddle (although, since the C17 acts a bit 
like a trampoline anyway, what this really means is I bounce out of it less 
more so than really feel the lack of bumps). And with that, hairpin turns 
feel slightly more sled-like, though the bike is also less prone to the 
rear wheel sliding out so it's really a pretty minor change in my 
day-to-day.


The biggest thing about the ride is coming from those Compass Switchback 
Hill tires. Man. So, they don't exactly put up a lot of fight against 
shards of broken beer bottles apparently, but they roll, comply, and corner 
wonderfully. The Clem has a lovely floating feeling I know is down to them 
more than anything, but when combined with the low gearing of the X2 double 
crankset there's no problem getting the bike rolling either. I passed a 
coworker on the way home one evening the first week I had it and he seemed 
surprised I only had 16 gears, and then asked if I had a motor hidden in it 
instead. I'm not setting any land speed records on the top end, but it's 
zippy enough in commuting use and matching the speeds I got off the smaller 
Fuji frame pretty evenly. And I really just don't feel the road anymore, 
except on the cobble streets. Those are still bumpy, but not in a painful 
way. Just require me to be a bit more active in the saddle. The cornering 
on the Compass tires feels great, not sure if it's the tread choice, just 
the size, or both. The last build had 38mm Soma New Xpress tires and they 
were bulletproof and fast, but they always felt iffy on hard turns unless 
the road was dry and clear. I didn't push it much on the creek-side path 
pictured there with the frequent sticks and leaves, for fear of it sliding 
out. The Compass tires are much more confidence inspiring through those 
same turns, even though they're leafier now.


Between the tires and the long stance, it's been a pleasure on the gravel 
paths out by the river. Even the 38mms always felt like they were drifting 
a little through the gravel, but the Clem just glides ride over them. On 
the finer, more packed gravel I couldn't even tell I wasn't on a road. Same 
with the dirt paths I tried. The mainstream market can call a modified CX 
bike a gravel bike all they want, for me the wide upright bars and fat 
tires are the best combo I could ask for if the pavement intended to stop.


There aren't many hills out here in Indianapolis, and I haven't had an 

[RBW] FS: Compass Tires, Showers Pass Pants, SFR Mud Flaps

[Jenny Oh Hatfield]

I have some new bikes coming my way so I'm clearing out some stuff that's 
been collecting dust to pay for parts. :) 


*(2) Compass 650Bx42mm Babyshoe Pass tires 

 (not 
the extra light). Tan sidewalls. New, sealed in package. $108 for both. *

*(1) pair new with tags black Showers Pass storm pants 
. Never worn. Asking $60. *

*(1) Set of SF Randonneurs hi-viz white reflective mud flaps. New in 
package for $18. *




*An an old skool women's Rapha jerseys that's in excellent condition: **(1) 
Medium black classic long sleeve Merino wool blend jersey with three rear 
pockets. ($60) *No rips, tears or discolorations, except for one tiny stain 
on the long sleeve jersey's arm band.

Pick up in Oakland or meet me at my office in SF. PayPal preferred.

Cheers,

Jenny








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[RBW] Re: OT: fishing equipments and accessories help

[Ron Mc]

You want to find members of NFLCC.  Their Bulletin Board is Joe Yates' 
board, and no membership is required to post there (read and follow the 
rules) - you should be able to find a local NFLCC member who would be 
interested in buying you out.  If you want to take your time about it, go 
to a local NFLCC meet and educate yourself.  If you have reels to evaluate, 
this is probably the place to start:  http://orca-online.org/reel-talk/ 
 and check out members websites  
http://orca-online.org/services/web-sites/  
Odds are you have fiberglass rods there - if any fly rods, here is the 
website (I post there as bulldog1935) and my Avatar is the Pflueger Golden 
West (benchmade) fly reel crest from c. 1935 
 http://fiberglassflyrodders.com/forum/  


 
(paired
 
with a c. 1920 Leonard Fairy Catskill on the Rio Chama)  

Cane (split bamboo) rods here - I also post here 
- http://classicflyrodforum.com/forum/index.php

Fishing tackle, like bikes, range from WalMart level to benchmade.  Should 
you have any of the latter, be careful and do take your time.  Some 
benchade reels (even some postwar reels) with provenance can be worth 
several thousand dollars.  
There were some great local CA rodmakers, as well, Scott, Winston, Powell, 
Harnell.  
Good luck.  

On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 10:50:32 AM UTC-6, franklyn wrote:
>
> Dear list,
>
> This is definitely an OT post. I am posting because I know some folks here 
> are into fishing. My father-in-law passed away recently and left my wife 
> and me some stuff to sort through. Among his things are tons of fishing 
> equipments--lures, reels, rods. Neither my wife nor I is into fishing so we 
> don't even know what we are looking at in some cases. What my wife does 
> know is that he used to do some fishing when he was younger but stopped 
> because of his disability. But he continued for a while to collect things, 
> so many of the items are new and unused. 
>
> What I would like is some advice. Basically an order of magnitude and a 
> high-level assessment of what things are. After that we can know what's the 
> best way to dispose of them. Ideally, there is someone who lives nearby (I 
> live in Berkeley, CA) and don't mind coming over to my garage and take a 
> look. If not, I can take some photos of the stuff in time and send to the 
> kind folks willing to help me. 
>
> I know that some here are into fishing, and also I have generally a good 
> level of trust for people on this list. That's why I am posting.
>
> thanks for your understanding,
>
> Franklyn
> Berkeley, CA
>

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[RBW] Re: Measuring Frame Angles

['Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch]

You can use BikeCad to design bikes and it's pretty easy to get really 
close to the geometry of a real bike (angles unknown) just by eyeballing 
it.  I did this with Riv's photos of the 52cm Clem and I wasn't off by more 
than .5 degrees on any angle.  Plus, it's a blast to design your own bikes 
and the free version of BikeCad is plenty comprehensive for just playing 
around.  



On Monday, November 16, 2015 at 8:02:50 PM UTC-6, Tony DeFilippo wrote:
>
> I've been enjoying my ~1970's, (possibly) Bob Jackson mystery frame w/ 
> 700x32 Compass EL tires so much lately I've been getting curious about the 
> frame geometry. It appears to have slightly steeper angles and definitely 
> has a compact rear triangle... anyway I took a nice clean profile shot on 
> my ride this morning and googled for measuring angles on a computer screen 
> this evening.  Low and behold there is a Google Chrome browser Extension 
> called "MB-Ruler for Chrome".  It's not perfect and I don't have any 
> illusions about the absolute accuracy of this method but it is fun to play 
> with.  Maybe there are some other tools out there you've used and want to 
> share?
>
> I had to flip the photo horizontally for the HB-Ruler tool to be able to 
> read easier, to bad you can't flip the tool.  These shot's are quick screen 
> grabs of the photo which I uploaded into flickr so I could use the chrome 
> extension on them from the browser.  Not terribly necessary on your more 
> recent Riv's w/ known geo but might be a fun distraction messing around w/ 
> an older frame.
>
>
> 
>
> HT Angle = ~74deg (this one was harder to measure w/o having a clear spot 
> to place the compass base)
>
>
>
> 
>
> ST Angle = ~73.4deg (i'm more confident about this one)
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
> 
>
>
> Two more w/o any angles shown... gorgeous crisp morning at my Mom's place 
> at Lake Waccamaw NC. I'm here through Thursday and plan to ride every 
> day... can't do better from a light perspective to what I saw this morning 
> though!  I'm going to put out some blog/flickr posts later this week with 
> more of my favorites.
>
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: OT: fishing equipments and accessories help

[Ron Mc]

can't believe I left out Joe Kennedy Fisher.  If you have any Fisher rods 
(or Scientific Anglers), I want to talk to you.  

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Re: [RBW] The Albastache'd Clem, 150 Mile Update

[Tim Gavin]

Did you actually have a flat from broken glass?  (sorry if you posted this
earlier and I missed it)
My Pari-Motos have been totally flat free in >1000 miles, and not from a
lack of broken glass on the streets.

I've had similar "floaty, but secure, and fast!" experiences with other
fat, smooth, supple tires.  The Pari-Motos feel that way on any pavement
and hard pack dirt and gravel, but the 60 mm Super Motos feel that way on
loose gravel and dirt, too.

Congrats on the sweet ride!
Tim

On Tue, Nov 17, 2015 at 12:19 PM, Zed Martinez 
wrote:
>
> The biggest thing about the ride is coming from those Compass Switchback
> Hill tires. Man. So, they don't exactly put up a lot of fight against
> shards of broken beer bottles apparently, but they roll, comply, and corner
> wonderfully. The Clem has a lovely floating feeling I know is down to them
> more than anything The cornering on the Compass tires feels great, not
> sure if it's the tread choice, just the size, or bothThe Compass tires
> are much more confidence inspiring through those same turns, even though
> they're leafier now.
>
> ... the Clem just glides ride over them. On the finer, more packed gravel
> I couldn't even tell I wasn't on a road. Same with the dirt paths I tried.
> The mainstream market can call a modified CX bike a gravel bike all they
> want, for me the wide upright bars and fat tires are the best combo I could
> ask for if the pavement intended to stop.
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] The Albastache'd Clem, 150 Mile Update

[Ron Mc]

Great setup, your bars look great, and really nice photos.  


>
>>

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Re: [RBW] The Albastache'd Clem, 150 Mile Update

[Zed Martinez]

Yeah, it flatted on me this morning about a minute after the picture in the 
first post was taken. Probably picked it up on the path and had it in that 
picture, honestly. It of course complied with the first rule of bike 
commuting that says you'll get flats only when it's raining. But, I was 
able to patch it quickly without popping the wheel off, and took it off 
proper here at the office and put a boot in where the glass had left a 
small cut. Annoying, but didn't wreck the tire. Last time I had a tire 
suffer from glass it left like a 1" slash and I just had to write that one 
off, since it was a skinnier and higher pressure one. But, I also don't 
think the New Xpress would have survived a piece of glass like that either, 
so, it's not like I can blame the supple casing. Just annoying. The fatter 
tires are excellent though, I do have to agree. And I thought the 38s were 
fatties before.

On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 1:53:39 PM UTC-5, Tim Gavin wrote:
>
> Did you actually have a flat from broken glass?  (sorry if you posted this 
> earlier and I missed it)
> My Pari-Motos have been totally flat free in >1000 miles, and not from a 
> lack of broken glass on the streets.
>
> I've had similar "floaty, but secure, and fast!" experiences with other 
> fat, smooth, supple tires.  The Pari-Motos feel that way on any pavement 
> and hard pack dirt and gravel, but the 60 mm Super Motos feel that way on 
> loose gravel and dirt, too.
>
> Congrats on the sweet ride!
> Tim
>
> On Tue, Nov 17, 2015 at 12:19 PM, Zed Martinez  > wrote:
>>
>> The biggest thing about the ride is coming from those Compass Switchback 
>> Hill tires. Man. So, they don't exactly put up a lot of fight against 
>> shards of broken beer bottles apparently, but they roll, comply, and corner 
>> wonderfully. The Clem has a lovely floating feeling I know is down to them 
>> more than anything The cornering on the Compass tires feels great, not 
>> sure if it's the tread choice, just the size, or bothThe Compass tires 
>> are much more confidence inspiring through those same turns, even though 
>> they're leafier now.
>>
>> ... the Clem just glides ride over them. On the finer, more packed gravel 
>> I couldn't even tell I wasn't on a road. Same with the dirt paths I tried. 
>> The mainstream market can call a modified CX bike a gravel bike all they 
>> want, for me the wide upright bars and fat tires are the best combo I could 
>> ask for if the pavement intended to stop.
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Custom, MB-1, and Co-Motion For Sale

[Fred Craven]

What a beautiful Rivendell. If I didn't already have one, I would jump on 
that.

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[RBW] Single Speed Freewheel Removal

[George Schick]

Anyone out there know of a "BMX" freewheel removal tool that will work well 
with a Phil Hub?  Unfortunately, the center hole on a commonly used tool, 
like the Park FR-6, is not large enough to slip over the larger-than-normal 
axle caps of the Phil hub.  This means that the axle cap on the drive side 
must first be removed, which is not only an extra PITA, but then the 
removal tool has to sit against the notches on the freewheel without 
benefit of the QR skewer to hold it in place, risking the stripping of the 
FW notches in the process.


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Re: [RBW] The Albastache'd Clem, 150 Mile Update

[EGNolan]

You're in Indy Zed? We gotta get you to one of our coffee rides!

Best,
Eric

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Re: [RBW] The Albastache'd Clem, 150 Mile Update

[Zed Martinez]

Hmm, I do like riding... and love coffee... you'll have to PM me more.

On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 7:15:50 PM UTC-5, EGNolan wrote:
>
> You're in Indy Zed? We gotta get you to one of our coffee rides!
>
> Best,
> Eric
>

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[RBW] FS: Ocean Air Cycles "Docena" Rando Bag

[Daniel]

Continuing my moving sale with my new, never used Ocean Air Cycles "Docena" 
handlebar bag, which OAC calls a "Demi Porteur". This is a large, high 
quality, super light bag, made by Swift to Ocean Air's design.

Dimensions are: 

cm in (approx)
height   28  11.02
depth21  8.27
width30  11.81

Other details on the Ocean Air Cycles blog can be found here 
. Mine is 
grey, with navy blue trim.

I never got around to figuring out a good mounting approach since the 
bottom velcro didn't mesh well with the rack on my Cooper 
. This should work fine for a Nitto M-12, 
M-13, Nitto/Rivendell Mark's Rack, and similar.

And more importantly, I'm moving and trying to lighten the load and free up 
cash. Sells new for $275--but not available again from OAC until early '16. 
I will sell for $260 shipped, in original box.

Photos: https://flic.kr/s/aHskoDhJD7

Please reply off-list.

Thanks!

Daniel
YL, CA

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[RBW] Re: Single Speed Freewheel Removal

[Peter Adler]

Nope. None of the readily-available BMX freewheel removers fit over the 
Phil axle - and I've bought and failed with several of them.

I bought an MA2 wheel with a Phil hub off eBay several years back, and got 
it cheap because the seller had foolishly threaded a White Industries 
 ENO onto the hub without checking whether he 
could get it back off again. Obviously, I didn't want to trash the nice 
pricy freewheel. After going through four different removers and taking it 
to two different BMX-specialist shops, I broke down and emailed Phil Wood. 
They told me to ship it/haul it down to their shop in San Jose CA, where 
they've either machined some tool to remove it, or they've come up with 
some other trick. This is still on my shortlist; the trip to San Jose goes 
through three of America's ten biggest commuter chokepoints, and I don't 
get down to the South Bay very often.

If there is a tool, it wouldn't hurt to ask if they'll sell you one. It 
could make you the emergency rescue mechanic for anyone else in your area 
who gets into this jam.

Peter "still hoarding onto the PW alloy Dixie cup to maintain hub bearing 
preload" Adler
Berkeley, CA/USA

On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 4:32:08 PM UTC-8, George Schick wrote:
>
> Anyone out there know of a "BMX" freewheel removal tool that will work 
> well with a Phil Hub?  Unfortunately, the center hole on a commonly used 
> tool, like the Park FR-6, is not large enough to slip over the 
> larger-than-normal axle caps of the Phil hub.  This means that the axle cap 
> on the drive side must first be removed, which is not only an extra PITA, 
> but then the removal tool has to sit against the notches on the freewheel 
> without benefit of the QR skewer to hold it in place, risking the stripping 
> of the FW notches in the process.
>

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[RBW] Re: Single Speed Freewheel Removal

[William deRosset]

Dear George,

Can you pull the DS and leave the NDS (my non-track end-cap-swappable Phil 
hubs are in VT these days, or I'd check) in place to locate the QR? All the 
QR needs is to provide some preload to hold the splines prongs/splines in 
place until the freewheel shifts a bit. Alternatively, you could throw your 
freewheel remover on the lathe and bore it out a bit

Best,

Will
William M. deRosset
Fort Collins, CO

On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 5:32:08 PM UTC-7, George Schick wrote:
>
> Anyone out there know of a "BMX" freewheel removal tool that will work 
> well with a Phil Hub?  Unfortunately, the center hole on a commonly used 
> tool, like the Park FR-6, is not large enough to slip over the 
> larger-than-normal axle caps of the Phil hub.  This means that the axle cap 
> on the drive side must first be removed, which is not only an extra PITA, 
> but then the removal tool has to sit against the notches on the freewheel 
> without benefit of the QR skewer to hold it in place, risking the stripping 
> of the FW notches in the process.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Cycling tight and shorts.

[Lungimsam]

Bumpin' up and trying again:
 
Other recipients: 
Still available: Aerotech Thermal Windstopper Tights - 60$ Large. Black. 
Articulated knee. No pad. Only ridden once, less than 9 miles. 86% 
Polyester/14% Spandex. pics of the tights can be seen here: 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/70237737@N00/sets 
 Still available:
Aerotech Thermal Windstopper Tights - 60$ Large. Black. Articulated knee. 
No pad. Only ridden once, less than 9 miles. 86% Polyester/14% Spandex.

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[RBW] Re: Single Speed Freewheel Removal

[George Schick]

Will - your advice is exactly how i do it.  Then, since the axle cap can't 
be reinstalled with the BMX tool in there, I shore it up with a couple of 
fender washers to support it on the DS.  I have also thought about your 
suggestion to bore out the hole on the FR-6 tool to fit over the axle cap 
(I have a machinist friend with the lathe), but I fear that it may leave 
the remaining metal too thin to withstand the torque involved in removing 
the freewheel.  Might be worth a shot sometime, though.  They're not that 
expensive a tool…


On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 7:57:18 PM UTC-6, William deRosset wrote:
>
> Dear George,
>
> Can you pull the DS and leave the NDS (my non-track end-cap-swappable Phil 
> hubs are in VT these days, or I'd check) in place to locate the QR? All the 
> QR needs is to provide some preload to hold the splines prongs/splines in 
> place until the freewheel shifts a bit. Alternatively, you could throw your 
> freewheel remover on the lathe and bore it out a bit
>
> Best,
>
> Will
> William M. deRosset
> Fort Collins, CO
>
> On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 5:32:08 PM UTC-7, George Schick wrote:
>>
>> Anyone out there know of a "BMX" freewheel removal tool that will work 
>> well with a Phil Hub?  Unfortunately, the center hole on a commonly used 
>> tool, like the Park FR-6, is not large enough to slip over the 
>> larger-than-normal axle caps of the Phil hub.  This means that the axle cap 
>> on the drive side must first be removed, which is not only an extra PITA, 
>> but then the removal tool has to sit against the notches on the freewheel 
>> without benefit of the QR skewer to hold it in place, risking the stripping 
>> of the FW notches in the process.
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Single Speed Freewheel Removal

[George Schick]

@#$%!!  Fingered the previous.  Here's what I started to say:  I suspect 
that when your PW hub arrived back at their factory they just removed the 
axle cap and used a standard BMX freewheel tool to remove it.  This is not 
difficult to do on their FSA hubs, but it's just an extra pain to have to 
do it.  They post instructions on their web site (a PDF buried among their 
other stuff) that shows how.  Bear in mind, though, that they've gone 
through several generations of FSA hubs and the one pictured in the PDF 
does NOT have the same hub axle as the one pictured.  Previous iterations 
used a sleeve to keep things centered and it did not work quite as well.

https://www.philwood.com/philpdfs/FSAinstructions.pdf

On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 7:46:30 PM UTC-6, George Schick wrote:
>
> I suspect that when your PW hub arrived back at their factory they just 
> removed the axle cap and used a standard BMX
>
> On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 6:53:08 PM UTC-6, Peter Adler wrote:
>>
>> Nope. None of the readily-available BMX freewheel removers fit over the 
>> Phil axle - and I've bought and failed with several of them.
>>
>> I bought an MA2 wheel with a Phil hub off eBay several years back, and 
>> got it cheap because the seller had foolishly threaded a White Industries 
>>  ENO onto the hub without checking whether he 
>> could get it back off again. Obviously, I didn't want to trash the nice 
>> pricy freewheel. After going through four different removers and taking it 
>> to two different BMX-specialist shops, I broke down and emailed Phil Wood. 
>> They told me to ship it/haul it down to their shop in San Jose CA, where 
>> they've either machined some tool to remove it, or they've come up with 
>> some other trick. This is still on my shortlist; the trip to San Jose goes 
>> through three of America's ten biggest commuter chokepoints, and I don't 
>> get down to the South Bay very often.
>>
>> If there is a tool, it wouldn't hurt to ask if they'll sell you one. It 
>> could make you the emergency rescue mechanic for anyone else in your area 
>> who gets into this jam.
>>
>> Peter "still hoarding onto the PW alloy Dixie cup to maintain hub bearing 
>> preload" Adler
>> Berkeley, CA/USA
>>
>> On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 4:32:08 PM UTC-8, George Schick wrote:
>>>
>>> Anyone out there know of a "BMX" freewheel removal tool that will work 
>>> well with a Phil Hub?  Unfortunately, the center hole on a commonly used 
>>> tool, like the Park FR-6, is not large enough to slip over the 
>>> larger-than-normal axle caps of the Phil hub.  This means that the axle cap 
>>> on the drive side must first be removed, which is not only an extra PITA, 
>>> but then the removal tool has to sit against the notches on the freewheel 
>>> without benefit of the QR skewer to hold it in place, risking the stripping 
>>> of the FW notches in the process.
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Single Speed Freewheel Removal

[Jason Hartman]

There are a few options I can think of:

Use a grinder to make the removal tool's hole big enough to fit over the PW
end cap.

Make your own tool out of a flat piece of scrap steel. Of course, it will
only engage two notches and I would recommend using the vice method.

Use a chisel or punch of some sort to get the freewheel started.

Take the freewheel apart, and use a big pipe wrench to remove the part of
the body still stuck on the hub. This should be a last resort as it usually
kills the freewheel.

I have used the chisel and homemade tool method successfully in the past
with no damage to the freewheel or hub. Though my hubs were Campagnolo, not
PW

Jay Hartman

On Tuesday, November 17, 2015, George Schick  wrote:

> Anyone out there know of a "BMX" freewheel removal tool that will work
> well with a Phil Hub?  Unfortunately, the center hole on a commonly used
> tool, like the Park FR-6, is not large enough to slip over the
> larger-than-normal axle caps of the Phil hub.  This means that the axle cap
> on the drive side must first be removed, which is not only an extra PITA,
> but then the removal tool has to sit against the notches on the freewheel
> without benefit of the QR skewer to hold it in place, risking the stripping
> of the FW notches in the process.
>
>
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Re: [RBW] The Albastache'd Clem, 150 Mile Update

[MattB]

Eric, Zed, coffee ride in Indy?  The Atlantis and I are in, let me know when 
and where!

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[RBW] Re: Single Speed Freewheel Removal

[George Schick]

I suspect that when your PW hub arrived back at their factory they just 
removed the axle cap and used a standard BMX

On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 6:53:08 PM UTC-6, Peter Adler wrote:
>
> Nope. None of the readily-available BMX freewheel removers fit over the 
> Phil axle - and I've bought and failed with several of them.
>
> I bought an MA2 wheel with a Phil hub off eBay several years back, and got 
> it cheap because the seller had foolishly threaded a White Industries 
>  ENO onto the hub without checking whether he 
> could get it back off again. Obviously, I didn't want to trash the nice 
> pricy freewheel. After going through four different removers and taking it 
> to two different BMX-specialist shops, I broke down and emailed Phil Wood. 
> They told me to ship it/haul it down to their shop in San Jose CA, where 
> they've either machined some tool to remove it, or they've come up with 
> some other trick. This is still on my shortlist; the trip to San Jose goes 
> through three of America's ten biggest commuter chokepoints, and I don't 
> get down to the South Bay very often.
>
> If there is a tool, it wouldn't hurt to ask if they'll sell you one. It 
> could make you the emergency rescue mechanic for anyone else in your area 
> who gets into this jam.
>
> Peter "still hoarding onto the PW alloy Dixie cup to maintain hub bearing 
> preload" Adler
> Berkeley, CA/USA
>
> On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 4:32:08 PM UTC-8, George Schick wrote:
>>
>> Anyone out there know of a "BMX" freewheel removal tool that will work 
>> well with a Phil Hub?  Unfortunately, the center hole on a commonly used 
>> tool, like the Park FR-6, is not large enough to slip over the 
>> larger-than-normal axle caps of the Phil hub.  This means that the axle cap 
>> on the drive side must first be removed, which is not only an extra PITA, 
>> but then the removal tool has to sit against the notches on the freewheel 
>> without benefit of the QR skewer to hold it in place, risking the stripping 
>> of the FW notches in the process.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Single Speed Freewheel Removal

[George Schick]

Curiosity got the best of me so I went down to the shop to take some actual 
measurements.  The opening on the FR-6 is 15.29mm; the PW axle cap diameter 
is 18.87mm.  So milling out the tool to about 19mm may not involve removing 
as critical an amount of material as I feared.  I think I might go after 
this solution.  BTW, from what little I know about machinist work, I'm 
thinking this would probably get done with a vertical milling machine, not 
a lathe.

Thanks all for your suggestions.

On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 8:07:05 PM UTC-6, George Schick wrote:
>
> Will - your advice is exactly how i do it.  Then, since the axle cap can't 
> be reinstalled with the BMX tool in there, I shore it up with a couple of 
> fender washers to support it on the DS.  I have also thought about your 
> suggestion to bore out the hole on the FR-6 tool to fit over the axle cap 
> (I have a machinist friend with the lathe), but I fear that it may leave 
> the remaining metal too thin to withstand the torque involved in removing 
> the freewheel.  Might be worth a shot sometime, though.  They're not that 
> expensive a tool…
>
>
> On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 7:57:18 PM UTC-6, William deRosset wrote:
>>
>> Dear George,
>>
>> Can you pull the DS and leave the NDS (my non-track end-cap-swappable 
>> Phil hubs are in VT these days, or I'd check) in place to locate the QR? 
>> All the QR needs is to provide some preload to hold the splines 
>> prongs/splines in place until the freewheel shifts a bit. Alternatively, 
>> you could throw your freewheel remover on the lathe and bore it out a 
>> bit
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> Will
>> William M. deRosset
>> Fort Collins, CO
>>
>> On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 5:32:08 PM UTC-7, George Schick wrote:
>>>
>>> Anyone out there know of a "BMX" freewheel removal tool that will work 
>>> well with a Phil Hub?  Unfortunately, the center hole on a commonly used 
>>> tool, like the Park FR-6, is not large enough to slip over the 
>>> larger-than-normal axle caps of the Phil hub.  This means that the axle cap 
>>> on the drive side must first be removed, which is not only an extra PITA, 
>>> but then the removal tool has to sit against the notches on the freewheel 
>>> without benefit of the QR skewer to hold it in place, risking the stripping 
>>> of the FW notches in the process.
>>>
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Let's See Some Clem/Clementine Pics

[ian m]

I was looking forward to naming this Mt Clem or something with the 
choose-your-own-Clem-name decals but the new blue paint really makes up for 
it. Built it all up last night and lost steam once I got to trimming the 
rear fender stays. Rides like a dream



On Tuesday, November 3, 2015 at 12:30:06 PM UTC-5, RDS wrote:
>
> I was just curious to see how all of the colors turned out for each 
> model.  Please, let's see some pics whether bike or frame.
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 62cm Rivendell Saluki (butterscotch)

[Rob]

To clarify I did post on the iBOB list that I'd consider removing some 
stuff to reduce the price. I'm not quite ready to strip it down and part it 
out yet. 

Rob in Seattle


On Sunday, November 15, 2015 at 10:36:57 PM UTC-8, Rob wrote:
>
> Argh, I hate to do this, but...circumstances.
>
> https://flic.kr/s/aHskoeejxJ
>
> Frame: 62cm Rivendell Saluki (butterscotch)
> Wheels: Hand built by G Cycles.
> Rims: 650B 32H front, 36H rear Compass Cycles Gran Bois
> Spokes: DT
> Hubs: SON20 delux generator front, White Industries Mi5 rear with new 
> bearings.
> Skewers: Pitlocks with matching keys.
> Tires: Compass Cycle Babyshoe Pass 42mm
> Fenders: Gilles Berthoud Composite
> Bottom Bracket: Phil
> Crankset: TA Cyclotourist ProVis 5
> Chainrings: TA 26-36-46
> Pedals: MKS Grip Kings
> Cassette: Rivendell IRC 8-spd 12-34
> Chain: Connectix Stainless Steel
> FD: Campagnolo Super Record
> RD: XTR Rapid Rise
> Brifters: Campagnolo Daytona 10-spd
> Brakes: Paul Centerpulls (polished)
> Brake pads: Koolstop
> Handlebar: Compass Cycle 41cm Randonneur
> Stem: Nitto Dirt Drop
> Bell: Brass
> Seatpost: Nitto S83
> Seat: Berthoud Aspin (natural)
> Seatbag: Berthoud 786 (grey) with Klickfix attachment.
> Front Rack: Mark's Rack
> Basket: Wald Medium
> Front Light: SON Edelux I LED
> Rear Light: Philips Saferide LED
> Rear Rack: Nitto Big Rack (old style)
> Kickstand: ClickStand.
>
> This Saluki, #0159, was originally built up when new by Jeff Ferguson, and 
> then owned by Ron Blumenthal for a year. I bought it from Ron in 2010. I 
> have ridden it pretty much daily since then. 
>
> Substantial renovation August 2015 included rebuilt wheels (new rims and 
> spokes, renewing bearings on rear hub); new 36T chainring; new stainless 
> chain; new cassette; new RD pulleys; new brake pads; and Phil factory 
> rebuild of the bottom bracket. The bike has, for all intents and purposes, 
> been re-newed. 
>
> Still, there are a few caveats: There is one dent on the frame--on the 
> downtube acquired in shipping from the East Coast when I bought the bike in 
> 2010. The cotton diamond wrap on the bars is due for replacement. The 
> Ergopower brifters will need a rebuild in another year. 
>
> This is a dream bike set up with what I think (and many agree) are the 
> best performing, best looking and most durable components available. 
>
> I'm asking $3,295, plus shipping from Seattle, for the bike as shown in 
> the photos. 
>
> Rob in Seattle
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Sam Hillborne, first-gen green, 60cm

[gordo]

Hi Dan,

I have a 60 cm first-generation Sam (metallic green with canti brakes) that 
I just can't get to work for me any more.  I'm in San Francisco, so it 
would be easiest to ship just the frame/fork/headset/front rack (silver 
Chris King threaded headset, Nitto mini-front rack).  The frame has several 
paint chips and nicks and served as a daily commuter for a few years.  That 
being said, it is free of any dings, cracks, etc.  

Please let me know if you are still in the market and, if so, I'd be happy 
to send pictures and talk about pricing.

Cheers,

Eric

240-888-6391

On Thursday, May 28, 2015 at 7:08:40 AM UTC-7, Dan wrote:
>
> Unlikely as it may be to find someone on this list willing to part with 
> one, I will ask anyway.  This is the first-gen metallic green one, not the 
> later sage green model. Why this one?  Two reasons: canti brakes; and the 
> slightly longer top tube (I believe it was 62cm on this one). Let me know 
> if ya got one and what ya want for it. Don't worry if yours is scratched 
> and scraped or otherwise beausage'd.
>
> thanks,
> Dan
> South-central Wisconsin
>

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[RBW] Rivendell Custom, MB-1, and Co-Motion For Sale

[flashman88]

I am helping sell a few bike from my brother-in-laws estate. He was a bike 
builder and welder for many years in the Eugene area for Co-Motion. I am 
hoping to find a home for at least one of his bikes through this group, 
hopefully more. I have original paperwork for the build of the Rivendell 
from 1999. Here are the basic spec's on ea. bike and a link to a few 
pictures. I am in the Bay Area in Marin.
 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/41683676@N07/
 

Rivendell 1999

custom built by Joe Stark with custom Joe Bell paint 56.5cm seat tube, 
55.5cm top tube. Brooks B17 saddle, Dura-ace shift and brakes! Chris King 
hubs and Head set.

 

Bridgestone

MB1 with custom fork& custom paint job! 19.5 inch frame, Chris King 
headset. XTR group, but with friction shifter on mustache bar!! Tubus rear 
rack

Co-Motion 

custom fixie! 55.5cm seat tube, 56cm T.T. Full Campy Record Pista group, 
Chris King Headset
 
Thanks,
Dave
 
 

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