[RBW] Re: Rambouillet Questions

[Lungimsam]

Yes, the comfort is incredible even with 28's!
And the Rams are easier to pedal down the road than Sams and Bleriots, 
according to my experience.

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[RBW] Re: Rambouillet Questions

[iamkeith]

I think clearances varied.  I now have 33 jack browns WITH fenders.  Bigger is 
better of couse but, even with 28s, i loved it and was always amazed at the 
comfort.  Pretty sure I'll never part with mine.

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[RBW] Re: Clicking From Crank Area

[Surlyprof]

Last time I had this problem I thought the bottom bracket was going. 
 Talked to Riv and they suggested taking off the crank arms, cleaning them 
out and then applying grease (like Phil Wood grease) to the hole or taper 
before reinstalling.  Worked like a charm.  They also suggested that just 
cranking it down could cause damage if the crank is already out of 
alignment.  

John

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 4:57:30 AM UTC-7, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> I could use the collective wisdom of the group...
>
> I have clicking sound that is driving me to distraction. It occurs on my 
> SimpleOne when I pedal. Sounds like one click per pedal rotation and it's 
> especially bad when I'm cranking down hard...as when I'm powering up a 
> hill. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the crank area. Two issues add to 
> the mystery:
>
> 1. Everything is new. Brand new Shimano UN55 bottom bracket and new Sugino 
> XD2 crankset/chainrings. While it was my first bottom bracket install, I 
> think everything went smoothly. Drive side threaded in almost all the way 
> by hand without a problem. Non-drive side was a bit tougher, and I needed a 
> wrench, but I attributed it to the anti-seize tape that they cover the 
> threads with on that side. Cranked everything down by hand with a big o' 
> wrench ala the Riv video and torqued the crank bolts to the proper specs. 
>
> 2. This has happened twice before. My previous commuter, an old Trek 
> converted to single speed had the same problem. Brand new Shimano UN55 
> installed by my LBS. Started clicking after 10 miles or so and never 
> stopped. And the previous BB/crank on the SimpleOne had the same noise, 
> albeit louder.
>
> Any suggestions? Has anyone run into a similar problem before? I'm fairly 
> new to fixed/ss. Am I missing something?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Eric
>

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[RBW] Re: Rambouillet Questions

[Lungimsam]

ooops..I mean 82pbh 

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[RBW] Re: Clicking From Crank Area

[Bill in Roswell GA]

I had a mystery click like that one time. Turned out to be the saddle 
clamp. It was one of those with two bolts, left and right. One bolt wasn't 
torqued quite right. Now I use a torque wrench on saddle bolts, too. 

Cheers,
Bill in Roswell, GA

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 7:57:30 AM UTC-4, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> I could use the collective wisdom of the group...
>
> I have clicking sound that is driving me to distraction. It occurs on my 
> SimpleOne when I pedal. Sounds like one click per pedal rotation and it's 
> especially bad when I'm cranking down hard...as when I'm powering up a 
> hill. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the crank area. Two issues add to 
> the mystery:
>
> 1. Everything is new. Brand new Shimano UN55 bottom bracket and new Sugino 
> XD2 crankset/chainrings. While it was my first bottom bracket install, I 
> think everything went smoothly. Drive side threaded in almost all the way 
> by hand without a problem. Non-drive side was a bit tougher, and I needed a 
> wrench, but I attributed it to the anti-seize tape that they cover the 
> threads with on that side. Cranked everything down by hand with a big o' 
> wrench ala the Riv video and torqued the crank bolts to the proper specs. 
>
> 2. This has happened twice before. My previous commuter, an old Trek 
> converted to single speed had the same problem. Brand new Shimano UN55 
> installed by my LBS. Started clicking after 10 miles or so and never 
> stopped. And the previous BB/crank on the SimpleOne had the same noise, 
> albeit louder.
>
> Any suggestions? Has anyone run into a similar problem before? I'm fairly 
> new to fixed/ss. Am I missing something?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Eric
>

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[RBW] Re: Rambouillet Questions

[adam leibow]

thanks for all your replies. my PBH & SH are exactly the same as iamkeith. 
87 & 76, respectively. i'm thinking the 60cm will probably be good then. 

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 6:08:45 PM UTC-7, adam leibow wrote:
>
> hello !
>
> recently i sold my too-small 56cm a homer hilsen, and have been looking to 
> replace it with something similar, but larger, so that less seatpost shows 
> and it fits a bit more traditionally/rando-y. i contacted a seller on ebay 
> about his 60cm rambo and he agreed to sell to me as a frameset even though 
> his listing was for the complete. before i decide to commit to this bike, 
> can i ask you fellow rambo owners a) what size do you ride? b) what is your 
> pbh? c) how much seatpost is showing? and finally d) do you have the 
> original geometry sheet for this bike? i couldn't find it after a quick 
> google search. also, if you have pictures of your bikes, i would love to 
> see them! 
>
> thank you for your help! it is much appreciated!!
>
> adam 
>

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[RBW] Re: Helmets... what do you like?

[Surlyprof]

I love how much great feedback we receive from this group.  Those POC 
helmets are really nice.  I saw someone had one on the train and it was a 
great design.  I also liked the Bell Zepher and Giro Aspect helmets, too.   
Almost pulled the trigger on one of those but, alas, going from free to 
$150-300 was a little hard for me to grasp this time around (and, I 
probably would have needed to wear it when letting my wife know how much it 
cost).  Bell's designs are very nice but looked huge on me.  Giro, as 
usual, were a nice comfortable fit.  As Will said, they often go on sale. 
 One of my favorite helmets in the past was a Giro Hex.  Tried them this 
time and ended up going with a Giro Xar in hi-vis yellow/green.  Typical 
basic zoomy-looking helmet but it was very comfortable and under $50 on 
sale.  Guess I'll have another 5-10 years to work up to a POC or Zepher.  I 
also like supporting Bell and Giro since several of my past students design 
for them (Specialized, too).  

Also, I tried washing that grungy Specialized in the dishwasher.  Still 
pretty grungy but I think the dirt and grime is now sanitized.  Keeping it 
around as a loaner and back up.  

Thanks for all the feedback everyone.  
John

On Saturday, September 10, 2016 at 9:06:41 PM UTC-7, Surlyprof wrote:
>
> I've been using a helmet that the designers at Specialized gave me several 
> years ago.  It's a nice helmet but it's getting pretty grungy and probably 
> needs to be replaced.  Having only spent about $50 or $60 on helmets in the 
> past 20 years, I figured it's time to pony up for a new helmet.  As I 
> started to search I was amazed at (1) the range of helmets I'd never seen; 
> (2) some of the new innovations that are coming out and; (3) some of the 
> prices that helmets are hitting these days.  I may just try to ping on 
> friends in the industry for another freebie but I use it so often, I may 
> actually get picky and open the wallet for this one. I'm not looking to 
> start a pro-helmet/anti-helmet debate, just looking for insights from those 
> who use 'em.  What are people liking out there and why?  I'd love to hear 
> everyone's latest thoughts on helmets.
>
>  
>
> BTW... I did go down the "folding helmet rabbit hole" when I was 
> searching.  Some crazy new things coming out.  
>
>
> http://www.treehugger.com/bikes/dash-and-stash-stash-folding-bike-helmet.html
>
> http://www.morpherhelmet.com/
>
>
> https://store.moma.org/museum/moma/ProductDisplay_Fuga-Foldable-Helmet_10451_10001_227971_-1_26715_11506_221954?gclid=CIC3h9Szhs8CFY9bfgodLwoAkg
>
>
> http://www.backcountrygear.com/madillo.html?gclid=CPD56pq0hs8CFQtnfgodRS4JwA
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Overade-Foldable-Folding-Bicycle-Helmet/dp/B00TA4TF4E
>
> http://www.thinkbiologic.com/products/pango-folding-helmet
>
>  
>
> ...and my wife found this one: http://www.ecohelmet.com/
>
>  
>
> John “Not wearing a paper helmet anytime soon”
>

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[RBW] Re: Rambouillet Questions

[Don Compton]

Adam,
Bottom line, what is your saddle height? spindle to top of saddle.

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 6:08:45 PM UTC-7, adam leibow wrote:
>
> hello !
>
> recently i sold my too-small 56cm a homer hilsen, and have been looking to 
> replace it with something similar, but larger, so that less seatpost shows 
> and it fits a bit more traditionally/rando-y. i contacted a seller on ebay 
> about his 60cm rambo and he agreed to sell to me as a frameset even though 
> his listing was for the complete. before i decide to commit to this bike, 
> can i ask you fellow rambo owners a) what size do you ride? b) what is your 
> pbh? c) how much seatpost is showing? and finally d) do you have the 
> original geometry sheet for this bike? i couldn't find it after a quick 
> google search. also, if you have pictures of your bikes, i would love to 
> see them! 
>
> thank you for your help! it is much appreciated!!
>
> adam 
>

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[RBW] Rambouillet Questions

[iamkeith]

Link didnt work.  Try this:

https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!msg/rbw-owners-bunch/k-aguYZOq8I/c5axN8jDTJIJ

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[RBW] Rambouillet Questions

[iamkeith]

I have a 60 Ram.  My PBH is 87cm, and my saddle ht. is 76cm.  I use a selle an 
atomica which is fairly low profile, so more seatpost exposed than with most 
saddles.  I'm on my phone so don't have access to pics, but recall posting one 
in following thread (2nd of two posts from me).

https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!searchin/rbw-owners-bunch/Riv$20and$20wild$20animal/rbw-owners-bunch/k-aguYZOq8I

Let me know if you need other specific measurements.

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[RBW] Clicking From Crank Area

[Ed Felker]

I've been working through the same noise on my SimpleOne. Happens when I stand 
up and crank hard up a slope.

All drivetrain components & rear wheel inspected and replaced or overhauled. 
Thinking it might be related to the kickstand, or fender installation, seems 
like the noise is caused by frame flex at bottom bracket area causing something 
to bind up.

Ed Feller 
Washington DC

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Re: [RBW] Commuting reflections and portfolio

[René Sterental]

Wow. Speedy recovery!

On Monday, October 17, 2016, WETH  wrote:

> Dear Ryan,
> So sorry to learn about your injury. Best wishes for quick healing and an
> early return to the saddle.  I had a similar thing happen to me in June.
> Fortunately I was able to turn partially parallel to the car so I bounced
> off it with my forearm.  If their side view mirror didn't bend back toward
> the front of the car, I likely would have broken an arm bone instead of
> bruising my elbow.  Still I was shocked at the whiplash action of my head
> as I came to an abrupt stop.  Again, heal quickly and well.
> All the best, Erl
>
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[RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

[Bill M.]

Don,

Why don't you take my custom-carved B17 out for a spin?  Cutting out the 
middle makes a huge difference, there's no material there to create a hump. 
 In any case, I'll have it out of service for now ( I'll be trying 
something quite different on my Rawland, an SMP Hybrid is due to arrive on 
Thursday) so it won't be a problem for me.  For that matter, I have an 
Imperial available, too.  It's not like I'm far away!  

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Sunday, October 16, 2016 at 12:42:55 PM UTC-7, Don Compton wrote:
>
> I've been a Rivendell fan for years having owned 4 different bikes. I used 
> B-17 saddles for years, but with wear, as the area under my sit bones would 
> settle, the hump in the saddle( running for-aft) would cause extreme 
> discomfort. I just had to give up on Brooks. I have been using a Secialized 
> Phenom for about a year, but it's not so great on longer rides like I 
> remember my Brooks in the early years of ownership. Has anyone with issues 
> similar to mine switched over to a Berthoud saddle and felt some 
> improvement?
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Question for Hunquapillar owners

[David Stein]

Broccoli Cog - no one was saying *don't *get the hunqapillar, just what we
thought its limitations were ;). (Where is Deacon Patrick with his Sardonic
Grin's when you need 'em)?

n+1

On Mon, Oct 17, 2016 at 1:16 PM, adam leibow  wrote:

> similar to Kurt, I have a hunqapillar and a fattie (29+ krampus) with a
> super high bottom bracket. I do some mountain biking on my hunqapillar and
> enjoy it but it definitely feels like underbiking on the more technical
> rocky rooty twisty parts of the trail, whereas the krampus is a frigging
> monstertruck that can handle it all like nothing. however, the hunqapillar
> is great for riding lite trails on the way to the coffee shop or mountain
> touring; it just depends how and where you usually ride.
>
> On Sunday, October 16, 2016 at 4:35:27 PM UTC-7, Broccoli Cog wrote:
>>
>> Every since my first Riv (a sam) I have been lusting after a Hunqapillar.
>> You guys warned me! You were right!! I already have a fat bike, a Surly
>> ICT, I have ridden that bike everywhere and ride it like I would a Mountain
>> Bike. On singletrack that is not super technical the ICT is a blast to
>> ride. I ride with people on traditional mountain bikes and really don't
>> feel like I am giving up much . I am wondering what a Hunq would be like
>> riding as a trail bike. Any owners out there who ride it like a regular
>> mountain bike? Wondering what your experience have been. Thanks!
>>
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[RBW] Re: WTB or T : 'Mountain' Brake Levers

[Eric Karnes]

I'm using the Tektro R559s. So yes, I'll need short reach levers for 
cantilevers. I'll check out those Cane Creeks. Thanks!

Eric

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 9:08:45 PM UTC-4, RichS wrote:
>
> Eric, what brakes are using on the AHH? If side pulls then wouldn't you 
> need a short pull lever? I have used Cane Creek "flat tops" on Albatross 
> bars
> with Tektro R556 side pulls. They worked fine and if I recall they are 
> moderately priced.
>
> Best regards,
> Richard
>
> On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 1:46:24 AM UTC-4, Eric Karnes wrote:
>>
>> Hi all-
>>
>> I'm building up a budget build for my new-to-me Hilsen. And I'm in need 
>> of some levers for the Albatross bars...something similar to the various 
>> 'mountain' levers that Riv sells. Anyone have anything they're looking to 
>> get rid of? Preferably something that doesn't take up too much bar space 
>> and is cheap. But if you're dying to get rid of some Paul levers, who am I 
>> to argue? I have a few Technomic stems and various other things I could 
>> trade...or I can reimburse you with cold, hard PayPal cash.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Eric
>>
>

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[RBW] Rambouillet Questions

[WETH]

Dear Adam,
I do not own a Rambouillet. But hopefully this has the specs you need: 
http://cyclofiend.com/rbw/rambouillet/rambflyer/index.html
Best wishes,
Erl

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[RBW] Re: What is this and how do I get it off my stem?

[Cameron Murphy]

That is rust or iron oxide from the inner surface of the steerer.   
Luckily, an anodized aluminum surface like your Technomic Deluxe stem is 
pretty tough.  Some vinegar and fine steel wool should remove it without 
any further damage to the anodized surface.   If yours was a regular 
Technomic, it probably wouldn't be anodized, and thus could be scratched by 
the steel wool.   To prevent problems like this in the future, it is 
important to grease the inside of the steerer before assembly.  (A regular, 
non-anodized stem would be even worse, as the aluminum-steel interface sets 
you up for galvanic corrosion.  In that case, the stem would be attacked 
preferentially, leading to large volumes of aluminum oxide, and possibly a 
stuck stem in bad cases.)

Cameron Murphy
San Marcos, CA

On Sunday, October 16, 2016 at 12:29:46 PM UTC-7, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Came off my Sam. Exposed stem is clean as you can see.clean. Stem sunk 
> into steerer tube has some surface corrosion of some sort on the aluminum 
> Technomic deluxe them. How do I get the corrosion off the stem and restore 
> it to its original lustre?

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[RBW] Swap: My Roly Polys for Jack Brown greens

[mikel66...@juno.com]

i have a bunch of Rollys that i want to trade for jack brown greens

2 are new/mounted, 2 are very good, and few others in very good to fair 
condition

unfortunately my camera fell into the toilet and isnt working.  im in the 
process of getting a smart phone so pictures will have to wait

mike goldman
warwick,r.i.






Affordable Wireless Plans
Set up is easy. Get online in minutes.
Starting at only $14.95 per month! 
www.netzero.net?refcd=nzmem0216

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Re: [RBW] Re: Quickbeam Sighting

[R Shannon]

Tom, thanks. Those are beautiful racks. Hope your GAP-C tour went well!

Regards,
Richard

On Sun, Oct 16, 2016 at 4:12 PM, Allingham II, Thomas J. (Retired Partner) <
thomas.alling...@skadden.com> wrote:

> No, it's a Nitto Camper Lowrider, but with the lowrider attachments for
> panniers removed
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 16, 2016, at 11:19 AM, RichS  wrote:
>
> Eric, it's always a highlight to encounter a Riv in the wild. I've even
> chased down a few!
>
> Tom, that's a hefty looking saddlebag on your son's sweet looking QB. Is
> it sitting on a VO rack? Presumably it handled the load okay?
>
> Many thanks,
> Richard
>
> On Friday, October 14, 2016 at 11:09:12 PM UTC-4, Eric Karnes wrote:
>>
>> Walked by this Quickbeam locked up near the U Penn campus this afternoon.
>> My SimpleOne was locked up one block north on Market. Belong to anyone on
>> here? It's the first Riv I've seen in Philly.
>>
>> Eric
>>
>>
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[RBW] Rambouillet Questions

[adam leibow]

hello !

recently i sold my too-small 56cm a homer hilsen, and have been looking to 
replace it with something similar, but larger, so that less seatpost shows 
and it fits a bit more traditionally/rando-y. i contacted a seller on ebay 
about his 60cm rambo and he agreed to sell to me as a frameset even though 
his listing was for the complete. before i decide to commit to this bike, 
can i ask you fellow rambo owners a) what size do you ride? b) what is your 
pbh? c) how much seatpost is showing? and finally d) do you have the 
original geometry sheet for this bike? i couldn't find it after a quick 
google search. also, if you have pictures of your bikes, i would love to 
see them! 

thank you for your help! it is much appreciated!!

adam 

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[RBW] Re: WTB or T : 'Mountain' Brake Levers

[RichS]

Eric, what brakes are using on the AHH? If side pulls then wouldn't you 
need a short pull lever? I have used Cane Creek "flat tops" on Albatross 
bars
with Tektro R556 side pulls. They worked fine and if I recall they are 
moderately priced.

Best regards,
Richard

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 1:46:24 AM UTC-4, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> Hi all-
>
> I'm building up a budget build for my new-to-me Hilsen. And I'm in need of 
> some levers for the Albatross bars...something similar to the various 
> 'mountain' levers that Riv sells. Anyone have anything they're looking to 
> get rid of? Preferably something that doesn't take up too much bar space 
> and is cheap. But if you're dying to get rid of some Paul levers, who am I 
> to argue? I have a few Technomic stems and various other things I could 
> trade...or I can reimburse you with cold, hard PayPal cash.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Eric
>

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[RBW] Re: S Protovelo Build

[Surlyprof]

Regarding your repaint, a friend had a metallic root beer brown bike with 
those gold Pauls.  It was gorgeous.

John

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 2:22:30 PM UTC-7, S. Greco wrote:
>
> Sorry, forgot the build details:
>
> • 2007ish Rivendell Protovelo Frame
> • Rivendell/Nitto lugged stem - modified for bell mount / brake cable 
> routing
> • NJS Nitto Jaguar seatpost
> • Green Brooks Ti B17 saddle
> • Nitto / Jitensha handlebars
> • Gold anodized Paul Racers, Canti-Levers, Moon Unit hangers 
> • Paul Rasta skewers
> • White industries hubs laced to Mavic SUP T217 rims
> • Grand Bois Cypres tires
> • Modified Nitto Campee rear rack 
> • Campagnolo Victory cranks & downtime shifters
> • Sachs New Success Front & Rear Derailleurs
> • Olive Swift Jr. Ranger Panniers
>
> It's probably going to be time for a repaint after this season - the 
> winters are rough in Rhode Island.
> I'm thinking maybe light baby-blue or dark brown with a red head tube.
> It's going to be very tough to say goodbye to this two-tone green.
>

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[RBW] Re: S Protovelo Build

[Surlyprof]

Wow!  Bet that could even make your old look speedometer look great.  Any 
way to retrofit?

Do you know what it was a protovelo of?  Hilson? The lugwork looks too 
fancy to be an early Hillborne unless that is where they started.  Just 
curious.

John

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 12:33:49 PM UTC-7, S. Greco wrote:
>
> This has been my favorite-of-all-time bike for the last 5+ years or so.
> It was originally clear powdercoat direct from Rivendell with the older 
> Protovelo decals.
> Bilenky did the repaint, added the couplers, paul racer braze-ons, modded 
> the stem, and added campy style cable guides to the bottom bracket. 
> The rack, fenders, and hub shells were powdercoated locally. 
> I bought this as a frame and fork and had been johnny cashing it one piece 
> at a time for quite a while. I think it is currently at peak-bling. 
> I'm about to put drops back on it so I figured I'd snap some pictures.
> The color is light minty green in the daytime and looks almost 
> glow-in-the-dark at night.
>
> This bike has been ridden hard since I got it - daily commuter, tours, 
> camping, etc. - its never let me down.
> My previous bike was a Schwinn Suburban so this was a bit of an upgrade. 
> No speedometer though :)
>
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: SOMA xpress tires

[Evan Baird]

I've never ridden the 650b version since my Stag fits bigger tires, but I know 
a few folks who run them on conversions. The only difference between the Pana 
brand and the Somas is the hypertex casing (which is supposed to be more 
compliant than PT, although a I can't really feel any difference). I don't know 
whether they'll keep producing them now that Pana is making their own 650b 
pasellas, but the 700c version may be rereleased with a new tread pattern.

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[RBW] Re: RBW Cassettes from IRD

[Evan Baird]

IRD made Riv spec ones. Not sure they're still in production, but I haven't 
heard anything to indicate they canned them. Probably just long lead times are 
iffy forcasting.

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[RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

[Bill in Roswell GA]

The leather used for B17s is not as thick as it was 30 years ago. I have a 
1985 B17 narrow which I bought used. I would say the leather is as thick as 
a modern Professional model, comparing to new ones at the shop. It was a 
little dry when I got it about 9 years ago, but a few treatments cured 
that. It still has its shape. The spanner has only been turned a half turn 
by me. The B17 is mounted on my 1985 Bridgestone and primarily is used for 
running errands, usually less than 10 miles round trip. 

Modern B17s look like an old sway back horse after a couple of years. I can 
see how turning the spanner would cause a ridge down the middle. No wonder 
I've come to prefer flat saddles!

Cheers,
Bill in Roswell, GA

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 4:20:27 PM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> I have heard different things from different "experts". Some say the 
> leather is not the same as in the olden days. Some say the leather quality 
> is different on different models. Some say the leather does not differ 
> between models. So there is  different info going around. Hard to get to 
> the bottom of it.
>
>  I did get confirmation from Brooks that misaligned rivets, crooked Brooks 
> name plates, crooked  adjuster bolt, and crooked noses,  different height 
> Springs, are part of the handmade process and do not cause a problem for 
> functionality .
>  Maybe I will email them again and see if I get an answer on the leather. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Commuting reflections and portfolio

[WETH]

Dear Ryan,
So sorry to learn about your injury. Best wishes for quick healing and an early 
return to the saddle.  I had a similar thing happen to me in June.  Fortunately 
I was able to turn partially parallel to the car so I bounced off it with my 
forearm.  If their side view mirror didn't bend back toward the front of the 
car, I likely would have broken an arm bone instead of bruising my elbow.  
Still I was shocked at the whiplash action of my head as I came to an abrupt 
stop.  Again, heal quickly and well.  
All the best, Erl

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[RBW] Off topic: Maine Riv owners /beer drinkers

[Belopsky]

I am told my favorite brewery, Allagash, brewed a beer called Haunted House. 
Only available in Maine. Can anyone proxy?

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[RBW] Re: What is this and how do I get it off my stem?

[Kai Vierstra]

This will sound overly fussy, but if you track down some fine bronze wool 
there's no threat of rubbing any ferrous deposits  into your lovely aluminium 
stem. Not sure if it really happens to aluminum, but bronze will "rust" if 
rubbed with steel wool. Anyhows, I assume the discoloration on the stem is 
caused by rust from the close proximity of the stem and steer tube, so yeah, 
this sounds overly fussy.
-Kai
Brooklyn NY 

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[RBW] S Protovelo Build

[WETH]

Lovely bike! Beauty!

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[RBW] Re: Clicking From Crank Area

[iamkeith]

One more random possibility to add to the list, which has plagued me in the 
past.  Fits with the "one click per revolution" description:

If I understand correctly, you are using two chainrings.  Are there any 
rivets or screws on your largest ring?   If it has a pin on the outside, 
intended to keep chains that drop to the outside from wedging into the 
space behind the crank arm, it might be riveted or screwed in place.   Or 
perhaps there are some ramps riveted on to aid shifts, if it's not a 
single-speed specific ring?   

If your chainline isn't good, or if you're using a wider chain (like an 
8-speed chain on rings with 9-speed spacing between them), the reduced 
clearance could cause the chain to strike one of those rivets or pieces on 
the adjacent chainring.   Easy way to test is if it happens when chain on 
the smaller/middle chainring only.   Obviously you don't need those things 
on a Simple One, so you could remove them.  Or you could use a narrower 
chain, or refine the chainline... 

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[RBW] Re: Question for Hunquapillar owners

[Broccoli Cog]

Thank you everyone! This is really solid advice and was exactly what I was 
looking for. I live in Upstate New York and don't really have an 
opportunity for loaded touring on miles and miles of dirt road. We do have 
some dirt and gravel but my Sam can handle any of that. Most of the 
mountain biking is either rocky and rooty singletrack or smooth flowy 
singletrack. I tend to stick with the latter these days. I think my ICT 
will continue to serve my needs. Thanks again. 

On Sunday, October 16, 2016 at 7:35:27 PM UTC-4, Broccoli Cog wrote:
>
> Every since my first Riv (a sam) I have been lusting after a Hunqapillar. 
> You guys warned me! You were right!! I already have a fat bike, a Surly 
> ICT, I have ridden that bike everywhere and ride it like I would a Mountain 
> Bike. On singletrack that is not super technical the ICT is a blast to 
> ride. I ride with people on traditional mountain bikes and really don't 
> feel like I am giving up much . I am wondering what a Hunq would be like 
> riding as a trail bike. Any owners out there who ride it like a regular 
> mountain bike? Wondering what your experience have been. Thanks!
>

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[RBW] S Protovelo Build

[islaysteve]

Man, that's a stunning color scheme, I sure wouldn't change it.  Just curious, 
did you "age" the bell?  Cheers, Steve

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Re: [RBW] S Protovelo Build

[Allingham II, Thomas J. (Retired Partner)]

Awesome.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 17, 2016, at 3:33 PM, S. Greco 
> wrote:

This has been my favorite-of-all-time bike for the last 5+ years or so.
It was originally clear powdercoat direct from Rivendell with the older 
Protovelo decals.
Bilenky did the repaint, added the couplers, paul racer braze-ons, modded the 
stem, and added campy style cable guides to the bottom bracket.
The rack, fenders, and hub shells were powdercoated locally.
I bought this as a frame and fork and had been johnny cashing it one piece at a 
time for quite a while. I think it is currently at peak-bling.
I'm about to put drops back on it so I figured I'd snap some pictures.
The color is light minty green in the daytime and looks almost glow-in-the-dark 
at night.

This bike has been ridden hard since I got it - daily commuter, tours, camping, 
etc. - its never let me down.
My previous bike was a Schwinn Suburban so this was a bit of an upgrade. No 
speedometer though :)

[https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A6ZUDraBg74/WAUlXRPRKUI/AMI/1uBYoL9fBaoy352FuVJAy5KIw1Z4hsWuACLcB/s400/DSCF8701.jpg]
[https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rH2FC7OlF-o/WAUler0UsnI/AMM/pnjc4e1fOx0n-7msech5KpQohwzL91LOwCLcB/s400/DSCF8703.jpg]
[https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xqv3l3Je07c/WAUllJSZopI/AMQ/-UF55MXA17I2eY6nyT58jMCRYc4sa6S5gCLcB/s400/DSCF8707.jpg]
[https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eVRs0G5kE7k/WAUlqq61XKI/AMU/VP3Wq65pJN0M0sfg0sws6Gtauvv4VWbyACLcB/s400/DSCF8708.jpg]

[https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M1Z1rtVgxYk/WAUmTAY8vGI/AMY/3qssYzcODmgR5LQT2Z3wAnhfKa_xV6_eACLcB/s400/DSCF8709.jpg]

[https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-O-zuUwDyhAM/WAUmX2-N8vI/AMc/bBA5wN07eaQhOlvtlSZZXGIq7UpT2s0ywCLcB/s400/DSCF8711.jpg]

[https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JQoJ5DOJpyc/WAUmc2kbgsI/AMg/xxJuS2eAfwghP2AnAcfMR0sKrZuV5bIpgCLcB/s400/DSCF8721.jpg]

[https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-brvmO5lyeOM/WAUmgCx2BUI/AMk/_hgxoho0wpw0ARPu2lwAoEZL_Owa9os9ACLcB/s400/DSCF8724.jpg]

[https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VBu6j2JOz5g/WAUmkZHBTWI/AMo/OBrFmR9JDbIg4PEdzT6ieKGWaZRhxvlagCLcB/s400/DSCF8725.jpg]










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The sender of this email is a retired partner of Skadden, Arps, Slate, Meagher 
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[RBW] Re: S Protovelo Build

[S. Greco]

Sorry, forgot the build details:

• 2007ish Rivendell Protovelo Frame
• Rivendell/Nitto lugged stem - modified for bell mount / brake cable 
routing
• NJS Nitto Jaguar seatpost
• Green Brooks Ti B17 saddle
• Nitto / Jitensha handlebars
• Gold anodized Paul Racers, Canti-Levers, Moon Unit hangers 
• Paul Rasta skewers
• White industries hubs laced to Mavic SUP T217 rims
• Grand Bois Cypres tires
• Modified Nitto Campee rear rack 
• Campagnolo Victory cranks & downtime shifters
• Sachs New Success Front & Rear Derailleurs
• Olive Swift Jr. Ranger Panniers

It's probably going to be time for a repaint after this season - the 
winters are rough in Rhode Island.
I'm thinking maybe light baby-blue or dark brown with a red head tube.
It's going to be very tough to say goodbye to this two-tone green.

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[RBW] Re: S Protovelo Build

[S. Greco]

Sorry, forgot the build details:

• 2007ish Rivendell Protovelo Frame
• Rivendell/Nitto lugged stem - modified for bell mount / brake cable 
routing
• NJS Nitto Jaguar seatpost
• Green Brooks Ti B17 saddle
• Nitto / Jitensha handlebars
• Gold anodized Paul Racers, Canti-Levers, Moon Unit hangers 
• Paul Rasta skewers
• White industries hubs laced to Mavic SUP T217 rims
• Grand Bois Cypres tires
• Modified Nitto Campee rear rack 
• Campagnolo Victory cranks & downtube shifters
• Olive Swift Jr. Ranger Panniers

It's probably going to be time for a repaint after this season - the 
winters are rough in Rhode Island.
I'm thinking maybe light baby-blue or dark brown with a red head tube.
It's going to be very tough to say goodbye to this two-tone green.


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[RBW] Re: S Protovelo Build

[Ryan Fleming]

Man, that is a beauty! I love the colour scheme and what a nice build 

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 2:33:49 PM UTC-5, S. Greco wrote:
>
> This has been my favorite-of-all-time bike for the last 5+ years or so.
> It was originally clear powdercoat direct from Rivendell with the older 
> Protovelo decals.
> Bilenky did the repaint, added the couplers, paul racer braze-ons, modded 
> the stem, and added campy style cable guides to the bottom bracket. 
> The rack, fenders, and hub shells were powdercoated locally. 
> I bought this as a frame and fork and had been johnny cashing it one piece 
> at a time for quite a while. I think it is currently at peak-bling. 
> I'm about to put drops back on it so I figured I'd snap some pictures.
> The color is light minty green in the daytime and looks almost 
> glow-in-the-dark at night.
>
> This bike has been ridden hard since I got it - daily commuter, tours, 
> camping, etc. - its never let me down.
> My previous bike was a Schwinn Suburban so this was a bit of an upgrade. 
> No speedometer though :)
>
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Clicking From Crank Area

[Ryan Fleming]

I wonder if it's  slop in your SS freewheel. When I had my PX-10 switched 
to SS I found the shimano SS freewheel was kinda sloppy and noisy with the 
clicking you described; tightening didn't seem to work. I got a WI ENO and 
voila...silent and silky smooth. Maybe that solution is a little expensive 
and drastic, though, but that's what finally worked for me

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 6:57:30 AM UTC-5, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> I could use the collective wisdom of the group...
>
> I have clicking sound that is driving me to distraction. It occurs on my 
> SimpleOne when I pedal. Sounds like one click per pedal rotation and it's 
> especially bad when I'm cranking down hard...as when I'm powering up a 
> hill. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the crank area. Two issues add to 
> the mystery:
>
> 1. Everything is new. Brand new Shimano UN55 bottom bracket and new Sugino 
> XD2 crankset/chainrings. While it was my first bottom bracket install, I 
> think everything went smoothly. Drive side threaded in almost all the way 
> by hand without a problem. Non-drive side was a bit tougher, and I needed a 
> wrench, but I attributed it to the anti-seize tape that they cover the 
> threads with on that side. Cranked everything down by hand with a big o' 
> wrench ala the Riv video and torqued the crank bolts to the proper specs. 
>
> 2. This has happened twice before. My previous commuter, an old Trek 
> converted to single speed had the same problem. Brand new Shimano UN55 
> installed by my LBS. Started clicking after 10 miles or so and never 
> stopped. And the previous BB/crank on the SimpleOne had the same noise, 
> albeit louder.
>
> Any suggestions? Has anyone run into a similar problem before? I'm fairly 
> new to fixed/ss. Am I missing something?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Eric
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB or T : 'Mountain' Brake Levers

[dougP]

Eric:

I've used these Tektros on a couple of bikes:

http://www.tektro-usa.com/category.php?productid=1147=207=0

Cheap @ $20 a pair.  Have a clever adjustment allowing use with either 
canti or linear pull V-brakes.  Not high precision, a bit rattly but 
nothing offensive.  Functionally excellent, aesthetically so-so.  

dougP

On Sunday, October 16, 2016 at 10:46:24 PM UTC-7, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> Hi all-
>
> I'm building up a budget build for my new-to-me Hilsen. And I'm in need of 
> some levers for the Albatross bars...something similar to the various 
> 'mountain' levers that Riv sells. Anyone have anything they're looking to 
> get rid of? Preferably something that doesn't take up too much bar space 
> and is cheap. But if you're dying to get rid of some Paul levers, who am I 
> to argue? I have a few Technomic stems and various other things I could 
> trade...or I can reimburse you with cold, hard PayPal cash.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Eric
>

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[RBW] Re: Clicking From Crank Area

[Lungimsam]

Go ahead and snug up all the bolts on the frame including any bottle cages. 
Loose bolts anywhere on the bike can cause a clicking noise. It is very hard to 
find where the sound is coming from.

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[RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

[Lungimsam]

 I have heard different things from different "experts". Some say the leather 
is not the same as in the olden days. Some say the leather quality is different 
on different models. Some say the leather does not differ between models. So 
there is  different info going around. Hard to get to the bottom of it.

 I did get confirmation from Brooks that misaligned rivets, crooked Brooks name 
plates, crooked  adjuster bolt, and crooked noses,  different height Springs, 
are part of the handmade process and do not cause a problem for functionality .
 Maybe I will email them again and see if I get an answer on the leather. 

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[RBW] Re: Clicking From Crank Area

[Eric Karnes]

Thanks for all of your responses! Lot's of stuff to try. To answer Bill's 
questions:

1. If I had to categorize it, I would definitely describe it as more of a 
click.
2. Good question. I will have to ride it tonight to determine. But 
definitely not random.
3. Very good question. Most bike-related noises don't bother me that much 
as long as everything rides smooth-ish. I think this one does because (a) 
it's happened all the single speed setups I've owned; and (2) I'm worried I 
may have done damage while installing the bottom bracket (or that the 
threads were already damaged in some way).

Most everything related to the drivetrain is new...crank, chainrings, 
chainring bolts, bottom bracket, rear wheel, freewheel, and chain. But 
before pulling the crank/bottom bracket, I'll check (and if necessary 
re-grease) everything. The thing that baffles me is that there isn't a 
single shared part on this bike and the Trek that had the same sound. Well, 
except the rider.

I'll keep you updated on my sleuthing...

Eric

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 12:39:24 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> There are about a dozen things that can make noise when you pedal.  In my 
> opinion, the best approach is to change one thing at a time to narrow down 
> the list.  Also, on the front end, I have three questions.  Two are 
> objective and one is more of a personality-test question
>
> 1.  Is it a 'click' or a 'tick' or a 'pop' or a 'clunk' or a 'thunk'.  
> 2.  Does it happen when the driveside crank is at 12 oclock?  3 o'clock? 
>  9 o'clock?  Somewhere else?  Random?
> 3.  Does it drive you to distraction because it makes sound?  Or does it 
> drive you to distraction because you don't know why it makes sound?  Or 
> does it drive you to distraction because you believe the sound indicates 
> something is wrong?  
>
> The best general approach is to change one thing at a time.  Starting from 
> Patrick Moore's list, if it is coming from the seat and/or seatpost, then 
> you for sure would be incapable of making it click while standing.  Does it 
> click while pedalling out of the saddle?  If yes, it's not the seat or 
> seatpost.  If no, you have a great area to look.  Moving to Eric Norris' 
> suggestion, just swap the pedals.  Did it change?   If yes, it's the 
> pedals.  If no, scratch the pedals off the list.  
>
> etc etc
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 4:57:30 AM UTC-7, Eric Karnes wrote:
>>
>> I could use the collective wisdom of the group...
>>
>> I have clicking sound that is driving me to distraction. It occurs on my 
>> SimpleOne when I pedal. Sounds like one click per pedal rotation and it's 
>> especially bad when I'm cranking down hard...as when I'm powering up a 
>> hill. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the crank area. Two issues add to 
>> the mystery:
>>
>> 1. Everything is new. Brand new Shimano UN55 bottom bracket and new 
>> Sugino XD2 crankset/chainrings. While it was my first bottom bracket 
>> install, I think everything went smoothly. Drive side threaded in almost 
>> all the way by hand without a problem. Non-drive side was a bit tougher, 
>> and I needed a wrench, but I attributed it to the anti-seize tape that they 
>> cover the threads with on that side. Cranked everything down by hand with a 
>> big o' wrench ala the Riv video and torqued the crank bolts to the proper 
>> specs. 
>>
>> 2. This has happened twice before. My previous commuter, an old Trek 
>> converted to single speed had the same problem. Brand new Shimano UN55 
>> installed by my LBS. Started clicking after 10 miles or so and never 
>> stopped. And the previous BB/crank on the SimpleOne had the same noise, 
>> albeit louder.
>>
>> Any suggestions? Has anyone run into a similar problem before? I'm fairly 
>> new to fixed/ss. Am I missing something?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Eric
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: S Protovelo Build

[Sky Coulter]

Looks fantastic!

Sky in new west

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 12:33:49 PM UTC-7, S. Greco wrote:
>
> This has been my favorite-of-all-time bike for the last 5+ years or so.
> It was originally clear powdercoat direct from Rivendell with the older 
> Protovelo decals.
> Bilenky did the repaint, added the couplers, paul racer braze-ons, modded 
> the stem, and added campy style cable guides to the bottom bracket. 
> The rack, fenders, and hub shells were powdercoated locally. 
> I bought this as a frame and fork and had been johnny cashing it one piece 
> at a time for quite a while. I think it is currently at peak-bling. 
> I'm about to put drops back on it so I figured I'd snap some pictures.
> The color is light minty green in the daytime and looks almost 
> glow-in-the-dark at night.
>
> This bike has been ridden hard since I got it - daily commuter, tours, 
> camping, etc. - its never let me down.
> My previous bike was a Schwinn Suburban so this was a bit of an upgrade. 
> No speedometer though :)
>
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] S Protovelo Build

[S. Greco]

This has been my favorite-of-all-time bike for the last 5+ years or so.
It was originally clear powdercoat direct from Rivendell with the older 
Protovelo decals.
Bilenky did the repaint, added the couplers, paul racer braze-ons, modded 
the stem, and added campy style cable guides to the bottom bracket. 
The rack, fenders, and hub shells were powdercoated locally. 
I bought this as a frame and fork and had been johnny cashing it one piece 
at a time for quite a while. I think it is currently at peak-bling. 
I'm about to put drops back on it so I figured I'd snap some pictures.
The color is light minty green in the daytime and looks almost 
glow-in-the-dark at night.

This bike has been ridden hard since I got it - daily commuter, tours, 
camping, etc. - its never let me down.
My previous bike was a Schwinn Suburban so this was a bit of an upgrade. No 
speedometer though :)

























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[RBW] Re: Clicking From Crank Area

[Jay in Tel Aviv]

I had a simalar click recently from my rear wheel. I tried acof the above 
suggestions to no avail. It eventually went away when I replaced my chain and 
freewheel, despite that neither could logically have been the culprit since it 
clicked whether I was pedalling or not. Good luck.

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[RBW] Re: Commuting reflections and portfolio

[Ryan Fleming]

I feel your pain, Erl , because I really enjoy my rides to and from 
work...but I got cut off by a  right-turning car while crossing at an 
intersection in a designated bike lane  end of Sep on my way home and have 
a cracked LI vertebraso no riding probably for the next 3 or 4 
weeks...could've been a lot worse , though. I really love riding in the 
autumn and it's hard to be off the bike. 
Thankfully no head trauma, and my X0-1 seems to be OK but may take it to 
our local Natural Cycle to be checked out.

Very handsome Cheviot and Romulus by the way and I wish you a speedy 
recovery

On Saturday, October 15, 2016 at 10:18:02 AM UTC-5, WETH wrote:
>
>
> As I spend a beautiful weekend indoors nursing an irritated sciatic nerve, 
> I thought I'd write about my bike commute.  My commuting route winds 
> through sleepy Washington DC suburban neighborhoods, down hill along a 
> stream, across a regional park and creek, up hill under an eight lane 
> intestate highway, along a major commuter artery where vehicles travel 40 
> miles per hour, through quiet urban neighborhoods, and finally, 8 miles 
> from home, onto the grounds of the worlds 6th largest cathedral.  Departing 
> the house about 6:15am, I cycle in the cool predawn air, passing a few 
> joggers and mostly dark homes.  After two and half miles of peaceful 
> suburban roads, I join a steady stream of cars.  The constant whine and hum 
> of traffic quickens my pace.  Three miles later I slip onto quiet 
> neighborhood streets as the sky brightens.  Back on a six lane urban road 
> the cathedral beckons in the  distance.  I arrive invigorated for the day! 
>  At 5:30pm, I reverse the route as I exercise away the days frustrations 
> and mistakes.  The final two and a half miles to my house wind along a 
> creek where the roar of traffic grows fainter and dusk settles in as I give 
> thanks for the day as I spin contentedly toward home. 
>
> Since early April, I have made this ride exclusively on my rehabilitated 
> Romulus with albatross bars and a small Saddlesack.  Nimble, quick and 
> comfortable, this bike is an extension of my body such that I feel I am in 
> it rather than riding on it.  The shorter wheelbase and uptight riding 
> position puts me over the rear 35mm tire so I feel the road the way I would 
> in a sports car-a bit rough but in command.   
>
> I greet runners, walkers, and cyclists while marveling at how many respond 
> in the morning and how relatively few I encounter in the evening.  Kindred 
> souls take to the road in the morning darkness.*  I marvel at the 
> politeness and courteousness of most drivers.  I wave a hand in thanks much 
> more often than I glare or gesture at an inattentive or aggressive driver. 
>  I try to put Mildred Norman's words into action: "But, you see, I love 
> people and I see the good in them.  And you're apt to reach what you see. 
> The world is like a mirror: If you smile at it, it smiles at you. I love to 
> smile, and so in general, I definitely receive smiles in return." 
>
> Fall's chill is creeping in, and I must layer more clothes.  Soon I will 
> be carrying my work clothes while cycling in winter gear  and changing at 
> work.  To that end the Cheviot is built with rack and large Saddlesack, 
> ready to take over as my daily commuter until spring. The Romulus will get 
> cleaned and tuned-up to be ready for weekend adventures. 
>
> I placed my favorite photos from my 2016 Romulus commutes in a folder:  
> https://flickr.com/photos/86975051@N08/sets/72157674823367155 I will add 
> more as they occur. 
>
> The Cheviot is ready, and I look forward to the beauty of fall and winter 
> mornings.   Cheviot photos here: 
> https://flickr.com/photos/86975051@N08/sets/72157665232090983 
>
> Safe cycling wishes to all, 
> Erl 
> *I love the early morning hours, yet I am not a morning person. 
>  Vocational obligations and a loathing of heavy traffic get me out the door 
> early on weekdays, while weekends find me sleeping later. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Clicking From Crank Area

[masmojo]

I am currently wrestling with a similar problem on my Atlantis and I agree it's 
a matter of working through possible culprits one at a time.
I changed several things, not specifically because of the clicking, but because 
the problem remained I was able to rule out cassette, saddle & seatpost. I was 
sure it was related to the chain ring bolts, but have eliminated that 
possibility! Pedals? It's a long shot, but worth a try! Spoke tension seems 
good, but again I'll keep an eye on it. Primary suspects now due to attrition 
are the bottom bracket or the VO hub/freehub. 

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[RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

[Eric]

Thanks for the link regarding the saddle repair services!

But in reference to the Imperial (which are nice) but it still begs the 
question if current standard B17's are made as well as they used to be. 

I for one think they're not simply because of how quickly & unevenly they 
break in along with the development of the dreaded "hump".

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[RBW] Re: Deacon Patrick update

[Hugh Smitham]

Yeah he rocks!

On Sunday, October 16, 2016 at 12:52:56 PM UTC-7, WETH wrote:
>
> Robert's thread "Saturday in Indiana" and his Hunqapillar put Deacon 
> Patrick on my mind.  Deacon and I exchanged emails this morning, and he 
> reports contentedly riding his Rivs around the beautiful Colorado 
> countryside.  He shared a link to the website on which he is currently 
> sharing his adventures and beautiful photos. He gave me permission to share 
> it with this group.  So, like me, if you miss his photographs and musings, 
> here is the place to find them: http://thegrid.ai/withabandon/
> Safe cycling to all,
> Erl

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[RBW] Re: FS: Brooks Saddles, Pauls, SRAM, etc

[Philip Kim]

update on whats left:

>
> Paul Motolites , pair, silver, used for 200 miles, plenty of brake life 
left - $140 shipped

SRAM PG-850 new - $15 shipped

SRAM 8 speed chain - $12 shipped

Please message me off list, thanks!

-Phil in DC

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Re: [RBW] Silver 2 shifters

[Grant Petersen]

We send the place an SLA file and they make it in 3D plastic. It's in
SoCal, called...ForeCast, I think. It's a good way to go before metal..!

On Mon, Oct 17, 2016 at 9:51 AM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> Grant
>
> In the BLUG post, the sample/prototype looks like a white plastic.  Was
> that white plastic sample made by 3D printing?  Or was it an SLA(*)?  Or
> did some artisan carve something?  I know the actual shifters will be
> aluminum, and I think it's cast aluminum.  Is that right?
>
> (*) SLA does not mean Symbionese Liberation Army in this context.  It's
> stereolithography-something.
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
>
> On Sunday, October 16, 2016 at 9:14:03 AM UTC-7, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:
>>
>> Short answer is: New washers seem fine. Longer answer is below.
>>
>> THey're still not breakproof, but they're a different plastic than the
>> early ones, and none of these has broken. I've got a bristly take on those
>> washers, probably not a popular one, but here it is--
>>
>> Plastic (of some sort) is an ideal material for a spacer/washer for this
>> use. The old cruddy plastic was good enough unless it was abused, and when
>> it failed the shifter still worked...and plastic failure posed to rider
>> risk. Any hardware store has flat, wave, and split washers that can slide
>> right in there and be a metal substitute and work well, but if one's thumbs
>> are as big as one's big toes and the rest of the fingers are proportional,
>> this rig can prove a little fussy, and it lacks the "key" that fits into
>> the rectangular hole. (Tho once in place, it's solid). But Plastic Washer
>> #2 has, so far after 4 years, proven to work 100 percent without breaking).
>>
>> This doesn't mean the first was defo. It was exactly the same as the
>> original washer in the SunTour shifter. It just means it's more
>> "America-proof."
>>
>> We sell those washers cheap in pairs, and it's those washers that'll go
>> in the Silver-2 shifters. So they could be bought as backups, but
>> considering their track record so far and the low-risk of a failure, buying
>> more than one set of replacement washers is just supplying your heirs with
>> tiny nothings to toss "later on."
>>
>> On a more personal level and if I can NOT speak for RBW for a second: I
>> LIKE stuff that can wear out or break (as long as it's not constant) and
>> that can be replaced and made good as new again. I did it for years with
>> Campagnolo parts, and ball bearings in general, now and then a cup or a
>> cone race.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, October 15, 2016 at 9:54:36 AM UTC-7, Conway Bennett wrote:
>>>
>>> G,
>>>
>>> Have you solved the wimpy plastic washer issue?  Maybe a thick hard
>>> rubber?  I remember there were two types of action figures growing up:
>>> brittle Gi joes who's thumbs broke off and these heartier more maliable
>>> super heroes with a similar but durable Kung fu grip.  I don't know why
>>> silvers 1s trigger this memory but that's where my mind goes.  In any case,
>>> I learned my lesson and stocked up as I have silver 1s on noodles and cycle
>>> thru them and chalk it up to regular maintenance.
>>>
>>> FW,
>>>
>>> CBB
>>>
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[RBW] Re: Helmets... what do you like?

['Clayton' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Giro Aspect and Reverb. I have both. Two of my all time favorites

Claytonious Q

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Re: [RBW] Silver 2 shifters

[Bill Lindsay]

Grant

In the BLUG post, the sample/prototype looks like a white plastic.  Was 
that white plastic sample made by 3D printing?  Or was it an SLA(*)?  Or 
did some artisan carve something?  I know the actual shifters will be 
aluminum, and I think it's cast aluminum.  Is that right?

(*) SLA does not mean Symbionese Liberation Army in this context.  It's 
stereolithography-something.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Sunday, October 16, 2016 at 9:14:03 AM UTC-7, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:
>
> Short answer is: New washers seem fine. Longer answer is below.
>
> THey're still not breakproof, but they're a different plastic than the 
> early ones, and none of these has broken. I've got a bristly take on those 
> washers, probably not a popular one, but here it is--
>
> Plastic (of some sort) is an ideal material for a spacer/washer for this 
> use. The old cruddy plastic was good enough unless it was abused, and when 
> it failed the shifter still worked...and plastic failure posed to rider 
> risk. Any hardware store has flat, wave, and split washers that can slide 
> right in there and be a metal substitute and work well, but if one's thumbs 
> are as big as one's big toes and the rest of the fingers are proportional, 
> this rig can prove a little fussy, and it lacks the "key" that fits into 
> the rectangular hole. (Tho once in place, it's solid). But Plastic Washer 
> #2 has, so far after 4 years, proven to work 100 percent without breaking).
>
> This doesn't mean the first was defo. It was exactly the same as the 
> original washer in the SunTour shifter. It just means it's more 
> "America-proof."
>
> We sell those washers cheap in pairs, and it's those washers that'll go in 
> the Silver-2 shifters. So they could be bought as backups, but considering 
> their track record so far and the low-risk of a failure, buying more than 
> one set of replacement washers is just supplying your heirs with tiny 
> nothings to toss "later on." 
>
> On a more personal level and if I can NOT speak for RBW for a second: I 
> LIKE stuff that can wear out or break (as long as it's not constant) and 
> that can be replaced and made good as new again. I did it for years with 
> Campagnolo parts, and ball bearings in general, now and then a cup or a 
> cone race. 
>
>
>
> On Saturday, October 15, 2016 at 9:54:36 AM UTC-7, Conway Bennett wrote:
>>
>> G,
>>
>> Have you solved the wimpy plastic washer issue?  Maybe a thick hard 
>> rubber?  I remember there were two types of action figures growing up: 
>> brittle Gi joes who's thumbs broke off and these heartier more maliable 
>> super heroes with a similar but durable Kung fu grip.  I don't know why 
>> silvers 1s trigger this memory but that's where my mind goes.  In any case, 
>> I learned my lesson and stocked up as I have silver 1s on noodles and cycle 
>> thru them and chalk it up to regular maintenance.  
>>
>> FW,
>>
>> CBB
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Clicking From Crank Area

[Bill Lindsay]

There are about a dozen things that can make noise when you pedal.  In my 
opinion, the best approach is to change one thing at a time to narrow down 
the list.  Also, on the front end, I have three questions.  Two are 
objective and one is more of a personality-test question

1.  Is it a 'click' or a 'tick' or a 'pop' or a 'clunk' or a 'thunk'.  
2.  Does it happen when the driveside crank is at 12 oclock?  3 o'clock?  9 
o'clock?  Somewhere else?  Random?
3.  Does it drive you to distraction because it makes sound?  Or does it 
drive you to distraction because you don't know why it makes sound?  Or 
does it drive you to distraction because you believe the sound indicates 
something is wrong?  

The best general approach is to change one thing at a time.  Starting from 
Patrick Moore's list, if it is coming from the seat and/or seatpost, then 
you for sure would be incapable of making it click while standing.  Does it 
click while pedalling out of the saddle?  If yes, it's not the seat or 
seatpost.  If no, you have a great area to look.  Moving to Eric Norris' 
suggestion, just swap the pedals.  Did it change?   If yes, it's the 
pedals.  If no, scratch the pedals off the list.  

etc etc

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 4:57:30 AM UTC-7, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> I could use the collective wisdom of the group...
>
> I have clicking sound that is driving me to distraction. It occurs on my 
> SimpleOne when I pedal. Sounds like one click per pedal rotation and it's 
> especially bad when I'm cranking down hard...as when I'm powering up a 
> hill. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the crank area. Two issues add to 
> the mystery:
>
> 1. Everything is new. Brand new Shimano UN55 bottom bracket and new Sugino 
> XD2 crankset/chainrings. While it was my first bottom bracket install, I 
> think everything went smoothly. Drive side threaded in almost all the way 
> by hand without a problem. Non-drive side was a bit tougher, and I needed a 
> wrench, but I attributed it to the anti-seize tape that they cover the 
> threads with on that side. Cranked everything down by hand with a big o' 
> wrench ala the Riv video and torqued the crank bolts to the proper specs. 
>
> 2. This has happened twice before. My previous commuter, an old Trek 
> converted to single speed had the same problem. Brand new Shimano UN55 
> installed by my LBS. Started clicking after 10 miles or so and never 
> stopped. And the previous BB/crank on the SimpleOne had the same noise, 
> albeit louder.
>
> Any suggestions? Has anyone run into a similar problem before? I'm fairly 
> new to fixed/ss. Am I missing something?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Eric
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Clicking From Crank Area

[Jeff Lesperance]

I've dealt with this twice recently and the first had a standard, expected
source, the second was quite confounding - both had similar characteristics
as you described.

1. First, easy fix, turned out to be pedal bearings that I simply repacked
- no new bearings, just removed, cleaned and regreased.
2. Second one had me removing and reinstalling:
 - cranks
 - pedals
 - chainring
 - bottom bracket
 - saddle
all to no avail - finally, standing next to the bike I
pushed/pulled/shook/rocked and poked everything I could, and I seemed to be
able to reproduced a click by rocking the saddle back and forth with quite
a bit of pressure, though I reproduced the problem with multiple
saddles so I pulled the seatpost and re/over-lubed it and reinstalled
it and the clicking went away.

On Mon, Oct 17, 2016 at 12:08 PM, Lungimsam  wrote:

> FD cable end getting hit by crank arm at every revolution?
>
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[RBW] Re: Clicking From Crank Area

[Lungimsam]

FD cable end getting hit by crank arm at every revolution?

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[RBW] Re: Clicking From Crank Area

[drew]

when i had this problem, it was a couple chainring bolts that were not 
quite tight enough. 




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[RBW] Re: Question for Hunquapillar owners

[Matt Rhodes]

I believe the latest Hunqs can clear a 2.4.

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 7:21:49 AM UTC-7, Belopsky wrote:
>
> Clearance for.. 58mm tires right? So something like 2.2 is do-able ?
>

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[RBW] Re: What is this and how do I get it off my stem?

[Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow Haus Bicycles]

# steel wool, 30 seconds later it will be a site to behold.

On Sunday, October 16, 2016 at 3:29:46 PM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Came off my Sam. Exposed stem is clean as you can see.clean. Stem sunk 
> into steerer tube has some surface corrosion of some sort on the aluminum 
> Technomic deluxe them. How do I get the corrosion off the stem and restore 
> it to its original lustre?

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[RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

[Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow Haus Bicycles]

I've never used them but these guys will re-form your saddle with a "love 
channel":

http://rideyourbike.com/brookssaddlerepair.shtml



On Sunday, October 16, 2016 at 3:42:55 PM UTC-4, Don Compton wrote:
>
> I've been a Rivendell fan for years having owned 4 different bikes. I used 
> B-17 saddles for years, but with wear, as the area under my sit bones would 
> settle, the hump in the saddle( running for-aft) would cause extreme 
> discomfort. I just had to give up on Brooks. I have been using a Secialized 
> Phenom for about a year, but it's not so great on longer rides like I 
> remember my Brooks in the early years of ownership. Has anyone with issues 
> similar to mine switched over to a Berthoud saddle and felt some 
> improvement?
>

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[RBW] Re: Clicking From Crank Area

[Ryan Fleming]

What pedals are you using...could be a matter of repacking them if you use 
MKS pedals

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 6:57:30 AM UTC-5, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> I could use the collective wisdom of the group...
>
> I have clicking sound that is driving me to distraction. It occurs on my 
> SimpleOne when I pedal. Sounds like one click per pedal rotation and it's 
> especially bad when I'm cranking down hard...as when I'm powering up a 
> hill. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the crank area. Two issues add to 
> the mystery:
>
> 1. Everything is new. Brand new Shimano UN55 bottom bracket and new Sugino 
> XD2 crankset/chainrings. While it was my first bottom bracket install, I 
> think everything went smoothly. Drive side threaded in almost all the way 
> by hand without a problem. Non-drive side was a bit tougher, and I needed a 
> wrench, but I attributed it to the anti-seize tape that they cover the 
> threads with on that side. Cranked everything down by hand with a big o' 
> wrench ala the Riv video and torqued the crank bolts to the proper specs. 
>
> 2. This has happened twice before. My previous commuter, an old Trek 
> converted to single speed had the same problem. Brand new Shimano UN55 
> installed by my LBS. Started clicking after 10 miles or so and never 
> stopped. And the previous BB/crank on the SimpleOne had the same noise, 
> albeit louder.
>
> Any suggestions? Has anyone run into a similar problem before? I'm fairly 
> new to fixed/ss. Am I missing something?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Eric
>

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[RBW] Re: Clicking From Crank Area

['Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I had this issue and like you, it about drove me nuts!!   I think I 
disassembled and checked the crankset and bottom bracket a half dozen 
times.  Finally, in desperation, I took off the right pedal, greased it and 
put it back on and it was fixed.  If someone had offered me a million 
dollars to correctly identify where the sound was coming from, I would have 
insisted it came from the bottom bracket.  



On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 6:57:30 AM UTC-5, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> I could use the collective wisdom of the group...
>
> I have clicking sound that is driving me to distraction. It occurs on my 
> SimpleOne when I pedal. Sounds like one click per pedal rotation and it's 
> especially bad when I'm cranking down hard...as when I'm powering up a 
> hill. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the crank area. Two issues add to 
> the mystery:
>
> 1. Everything is new. Brand new Shimano UN55 bottom bracket and new Sugino 
> XD2 crankset/chainrings. While it was my first bottom bracket install, I 
> think everything went smoothly. Drive side threaded in almost all the way 
> by hand without a problem. Non-drive side was a bit tougher, and I needed a 
> wrench, but I attributed it to the anti-seize tape that they cover the 
> threads with on that side. Cranked everything down by hand with a big o' 
> wrench ala the Riv video and torqued the crank bolts to the proper specs. 
>
> 2. This has happened twice before. My previous commuter, an old Trek 
> converted to single speed had the same problem. Brand new Shimano UN55 
> installed by my LBS. Started clicking after 10 miles or so and never 
> stopped. And the previous BB/crank on the SimpleOne had the same noise, 
> albeit louder.
>
> Any suggestions? Has anyone run into a similar problem before? I'm fairly 
> new to fixed/ss. Am I missing something?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Eric
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Clicking From Crank Area

[Patrick Moore]

Shoelaces in particular. Not too long ago I began to hear a clicking with
each crank revolution, and I thought, "Oh, no, something is finally going
wrong with the Phil bb (getting on for 11K miles, *and* with ti spindle and
aluminum cups). Nope: sloppy shoelace tying with long laces.

Longer ago, after much grief and anguish, I finally traced a troublesome
clicking to the stem clamp. My '03 Riv still clicks occasionally,
alternated with squeaks -- it's the saddle in the rails, I'm pretty sure,
but as it comes and goes, it doesn't last long enough for me to fret about
it enough to fix it.

On Mon, Oct 17, 2016 at 8:40 AM, Edwin W  wrote:

> My clicks like that have all been pedal bearing related... but you want to
> rule out shoelaces and pannier cords first!
>
>
> On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 6:57:30 AM UTC-5, Eric Karnes wrote:
>>
>> I could use the collective wisdom of the group...
>>
>> I have clicking sound that is driving me to distraction. It occurs on my
>> SimpleOne when I pedal. Sounds like one click per pedal rotation and it's
>> especially bad when I'm cranking down hard...as when I'm powering up a
>> hill. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the crank area. Two issues add to
>> the mystery:
>>
>> 1. Everything is new. Brand new Shimano UN55 bottom bracket and new
>> Sugino XD2 crankset/chainrings. While it was my first bottom bracket
>> install, I think everything went smoothly. Drive side threaded in almost
>> all the way by hand without a problem. Non-drive side was a bit tougher,
>> and I needed a wrench, but I attributed it to the anti-seize tape that they
>> cover the threads with on that side. Cranked everything down by hand with a
>> big o' wrench ala the Riv video and torqued the crank bolts to the proper
>> specs.
>>
>> 2. This has happened twice before. My previous commuter, an old Trek
>> converted to single speed had the same problem. Brand new Shimano UN55
>> installed by my LBS. Started clicking after 10 miles or so and never
>> stopped. And the previous BB/crank on the SimpleOne had the same noise,
>> albeit louder.
>>
>> Any suggestions? Has anyone run into a similar problem before? I'm fairly
>> new to fixed/ss. Am I missing something?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Eric
>>
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[RBW] Re: Clicking From Crank Area

[Edwin W]

My clicks like that have all been pedal bearing related... but you want to 
rule out shoelaces and pannier cords first!

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 6:57:30 AM UTC-5, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> I could use the collective wisdom of the group...
>
> I have clicking sound that is driving me to distraction. It occurs on my 
> SimpleOne when I pedal. Sounds like one click per pedal rotation and it's 
> especially bad when I'm cranking down hard...as when I'm powering up a 
> hill. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the crank area. Two issues add to 
> the mystery:
>
> 1. Everything is new. Brand new Shimano UN55 bottom bracket and new Sugino 
> XD2 crankset/chainrings. While it was my first bottom bracket install, I 
> think everything went smoothly. Drive side threaded in almost all the way 
> by hand without a problem. Non-drive side was a bit tougher, and I needed a 
> wrench, but I attributed it to the anti-seize tape that they cover the 
> threads with on that side. Cranked everything down by hand with a big o' 
> wrench ala the Riv video and torqued the crank bolts to the proper specs. 
>
> 2. This has happened twice before. My previous commuter, an old Trek 
> converted to single speed had the same problem. Brand new Shimano UN55 
> installed by my LBS. Started clicking after 10 miles or so and never 
> stopped. And the previous BB/crank on the SimpleOne had the same noise, 
> albeit louder.
>
> Any suggestions? Has anyone run into a similar problem before? I'm fairly 
> new to fixed/ss. Am I missing something?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Eric
>

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[RBW] Re: Question for Hunquapillar owners

[Belopsky]

Clearance for.. 58mm tires right? So something like 2.2 is do-able ?

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[RBW] Re: Question for Hunquapillar owners

[Marc Irwin]

I agree with everything I have seen here.  The Hunq is a super 
goanywheredoanythingfullyloaded for big boy's bike.  It's good enough for 
me on single track, but I don't aggressively shred nothing.  Since I am not 
hell bent on riding technical trails and competition, it has kept me from 
buying a MTB or Fattie.
A couple of years ago, I was in Minneapolis at a rally and QBP brought the 
whole stable of fatties out to the river bottoms for us to try.  I rode all 
of them and honestly prefer the Hunq.  It's more versitile and easy enough 
on anything but loose deep sand.  

Marc

On Sunday, October 16, 2016 at 7:35:27 PM UTC-4, Broccoli Cog wrote:
>
> Every since my first Riv (a sam) I have been lusting after a Hunqapillar. 
> You guys warned me! You were right!! I already have a fat bike, a Surly 
> ICT, I have ridden that bike everywhere and ride it like I would a Mountain 
> Bike. On singletrack that is not super technical the ICT is a blast to 
> ride. I ride with people on traditional mountain bikes and really don't 
> feel like I am giving up much . I am wondering what a Hunq would be like 
> riding as a trail bike. Any owners out there who ride it like a regular 
> mountain bike? Wondering what your experience have been. Thanks!
>

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[RBW] Re: Question for Hunquapillar owners

[Daniel Jackson]

The Hunq is beautiful comfortable and stable. An ideal platform for an all 
rounder and dirt road to tame singletrack tourer. My favorite bike in my 
stable. 

But it  cannot handle technical single track nearly as well as other dedicated 
options. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

[Steve Palincsar]

On 10/17/2016 08:58 AM, jeffrey kane wrote:


So faced with the decision to buy a new Team Pro -- or try yet another 
saddle -- I went with the Aspin (Arivis, actually -- but same shape) 
because that saddle also looked to fit my needs based on the numbers. 
And it did -- but here's the odd part -- I must be the only person to 
be disappointed with it's longevity. It broke in very quickly (read: 
sagged) and once, when soaked in a rainstorm I didn't see coming -- 
sagged so much that I thought it was a goner. To it's credit, I was 
able to get it back into shape again and am finishing a second season 
with it -- though, I've had to run the tension bolt in a bunch more 
than expected -- and again, I always have that nagging feeling that 
it's sagging towards state of ultimate uselessness.


I like that I can at least order new leather for it -- but wish I'd 
had that 500 mile break-in period everyone talks about and the 
impression that the leather is somehow thicker. Mine does not seem 
overly thick compared to the Books models I've used in the past ... 
and well, it's not behaving much differently, either.


It is comfortable, however,  and I get that these are leather saddles, 
therefor somewhat subject to the varying nature of "natural"  material 
-- so I suppose I'll try replacing the leather sooner or later ... if 
not next season then likely the season after.


I am curious if anyone else has had a similar Berthoud experience -- I 
weigh between 150 and 160lb, generally, btw.




I've not been caught in the rain without fenders or a saddle cover 
riding a leather saddle since the 1990s, so I can't speak to how well a 
Berthoud saddle would do in those conditions.  I can say, last year I 
bought a dark brown Aspin that broke in alarmingly quickly - very soft 
in just 50 miles.  I contacted the seller who in turn contacted Gilles 
Berthoud and learned they'd had a few reported cases like mine.  The 
saddle was replaced under warranty, with an Aravis, which has been just 
fine, as have the other five Berthoud saddles.   As for weight: mine's 
substantially more.


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[RBW] Re: FS: Brooks Saddles, Pauls, SRAM, etc

[Philip Kim]

Also adding more to the sell list - 

Nitto M18 mini front rack - $85 shipped

Paul Motolites , pair, silver, used for 200 miles, plenty of brake life 
left - $140 shipped

On Friday, October 14, 2016 at 8:36:20 AM UTC-4, Philip Kim wrote:
>
> thanks to everyone who reached out. I'll ship everything out early next 
> week. update on what's left.
>
> On Thursday, October 13, 2016 at 9:50:48 AM UTC-4, Philip Kim wrote:
>>
>> update
>>
>> On Thursday, October 13, 2016 at 8:24:16 AM UTC-4, Philip Kim wrote:
>>>
>>> Cross post from I-Bob
>>>  
>>>
 I've sold a few more projects I've accumulated over the past few years, 
 because I'm content with my stable as it is. So here are the left overs...

 (SOLD) Brooks Swift Chrome Rails, slightly used still good - $75 shipped

 (SOLD) Brooks Swift Titanium Rails, new, older version without saddle 
 loops - $120 shipped

 Paul Levers  (long 
 pull levers. works for MTB disc brakes, or v-brakes) 2.5 version, WILL NOT 
 WORK WITH CANTIS - $60 shipped

 (SOLD) Paul Touring Cantis 
 ,
  
 pair, silver anondized, new installed but never used - $125 shipped

 (SOLD) Brooks Ergon Grips, brown leather, almost new - $55 shipped

 SRAM PG-850 new - $15 shipped

 SRAM 8 speed chain - $12 shipped

 (SOLD) Microshift long cage derailleur 
 ,
  
 new - $30 shipped

 (SOLD) Rivendell Sackville Fender Flaps, pair, tan, new - $20 shipped


 Please message me off list, thanks!

 -Phil in DC

>>>

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[RBW] Re: Deacon Patrick update

[GAJett]

Bookmarked!
Thanks for the info.
Cheers

On Sunday, October 16, 2016 at 12:52:56 PM UTC-7, WETH wrote:
>
> Robert's thread "Saturday in Indiana" and his Hunqapillar put Deacon 
> Patrick on my mind.  Deacon and I exchanged emails this morning, and he 
> reports contentedly riding his Rivs around the beautiful Colorado 
> countryside.  He shared a link to the website on which he is currently 
> sharing his adventures and beautiful photos. He gave me permission to share 
> it with this group.  So, like me, if you miss his photographs and musings, 
> here is the place to find them: http://thegrid.ai/withabandon/
> Safe cycling to all,
> Erl

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[RBW] FS: Dia Compe 750, 60-78mm Classic Center Pull Road Bike Brake Silver - Front & Rear

[Belopsky]

$45 shipped USA

These were bought on eBay, they were take-offs. I installed them on a 650b 
conversion I was doing, but they did not reach the front for the frame, so 
I never used them either.

I had to use some older Weinmann 'back' piece to attach to the frame from 
the bike - Looks like part 451 here: 
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/images/mafac-racer.gif



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Re: [RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

[jeffrey kane]

I'll chime in with a quick six year synopsis of my leather saddle 
experience:

I like B-17's with upright bars but they don't work in drop bar mode for me 
(too wide at the rear and in-between my legs). I tried a Brooks Swift in 
drop bar mode for a while, which, wasn't too bad but did sag so much over a 
short period of use (maybe two seasons) that I started to become frustrated 
with the whole finicky leather saddle thing altogether. I haven't enjoyed 
the continual evolving towards sag experience much but I do like the feel 
of leather saddles (way more than the Cambiums -- but that's another story).

Next I tried an older Team Pro, which, by the numbers seemed like it would 
be a better fit for my drop bar position (and it was). Unfortunately, it 
deteriorated and ripped (but that was really due to it's age more than 
anything else). 

So faced with the decision to buy a new Team Pro -- or try yet another 
saddle -- I went with the Aspin (Arivis, actually -- but same shape) 
because that saddle also looked to fit my needs based on the numbers. And 
it did -- but here's the odd part -- I must be the only person to be 
disappointed with it's longevity. It broke in very quickly (read: sagged) 
and once, when soaked in a rainstorm I didn't see coming -- sagged so much 
that I thought it was a goner. To it's credit, I was able to get it back 
into shape again and am finishing a second season with it -- though, I've 
had to run the tension bolt in a bunch more than expected -- and again, I 
always have that nagging feeling that it's sagging towards state of 
ultimate uselessness. 

I like that I can at least order new leather for it -- but wish I'd had 
that 500 mile break-in period everyone talks about and the impression that 
the leather is somehow thicker. Mine does not seem overly thick compared to 
the Books models I've used in the past ... and well, it's not behaving much 
differently, either. 

It is comfortable, however,  and I get that these are leather saddles, 
therefor somewhat subject to the varying nature of "natural"  material -- 
so I suppose I'll try replacing the leather sooner or later ... if not next 
season then likely the season after.

I am curious if anyone else has had a similar Berthoud experience -- I 
weigh between 150 and 160lb, generally, btw.

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 7:59:44 AM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
>
> On 10/17/2016 12:36 AM, Lungimsam wrote: 
> > Is tge name pronounced: 
> > "Ber-toad", or 
>
> > "Bear-tood" 
> According to google translate, bear-too, with a rolling r 
>
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Clicking From Crank Area

[Patrick Moore]

IME, clicking sounds that can appear to come from the bb area can be caused
by:

Pedals
Seatpost
Saddle
Stem
BB cups
Shoe lace aglets
Pannier cords




On Mon, Oct 17, 2016 at 5:57 AM, Eric Karnes  wrote:

> I could use the collective wisdom of the group...
>
> I have clicking sound that is driving me to distraction. It occurs on my
> SimpleOne when I pedal. Sounds like one click per pedal rotation and it's
> especially bad when I'm cranking down hard...as when I'm powering up a
> hill. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the crank area. Two issues add to
> the mystery:
>
> 1. Everything is new. Brand new Shimano UN55 bottom bracket and new Sugino
> XD2 crankset/chainrings. While it was my first bottom bracket install, I
> think everything went smoothly. Drive side threaded in almost all the way
> by hand without a problem. Non-drive side was a bit tougher, and I needed a
> wrench, but I attributed it to the anti-seize tape that they cover the
> threads with on that side. Cranked everything down by hand with a big o'
> wrench ala the Riv video and torqued the crank bolts to the proper specs.
>
> 2. This has happened twice before. My previous commuter, an old Trek
> converted to single speed had the same problem. Brand new Shimano UN55
> installed by my LBS. Started clicking after 10 miles or so and never
> stopped. And the previous BB/crank on the SimpleOne had the same noise,
> albeit louder.
>
> Any suggestions? Has anyone run into a similar problem before? I'm fairly
> new to fixed/ss. Am I missing something?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Eric
>
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**
**
*The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and
individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu

*Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the
world revolves.) *Carthusian motto

*It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart

*Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle

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[RBW] Clicking From Crank Area

[Lungimsam]

A loose pedal/crank arm interface can cause a click every rotation. Grease 
pedal threads and  reinstall pedals being sure to tighten down that pedal/crank 
interface.

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[RBW] Clicking From Crank Area

[William R.]

Hi Eric. As we all know the source of these clicks can be elusive to say the 
least! One thing that I have learned to check first is the spokes of the rear 
wheel. You said everything is new. Does that include the wheels? Even if they 
are not new, and regardless if they were hand built or machine (though I find 
it more common in machine built wheels) - try a drop of oil on every point 
where the spokes touch other metal: hub, crossings and nipples. I'm surprised 
at how often this silences my bike! I'm sure there will be other good ideas of 
things to check to come from other members. That's where I've learned to check 
first from others more technically versed here. 

Bill in Westchester, NY

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Re: [RBW] Clicking From Crank Area

[Eric Norris]

The last time I had this problem, it turned out to be worn pedal bearings. I 
rebuilt the pedals with new bearings, and the noise stopped.

Eric N
www.CampyOnly.com
CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy

> On Oct 17, 2016, at 4:57 AM, Eric Karnes  wrote:
> 
> I could use the collective wisdom of the group...
> 
> I have clicking sound that is driving me to distraction. It occurs on my 
> SimpleOne when I pedal. Sounds like one click per pedal rotation and it's 
> especially bad when I'm cranking down hard...as when I'm powering up a hill. 
> I'm pretty sure it's coming from the crank area. Two issues add to the 
> mystery:
> 
> 1. Everything is new. Brand new Shimano UN55 bottom bracket and new Sugino 
> XD2 crankset/chainrings. While it was my first bottom bracket install, I 
> think everything went smoothly. Drive side threaded in almost all the way by 
> hand without a problem. Non-drive side was a bit tougher, and I needed a 
> wrench, but I attributed it to the anti-seize tape that they cover the 
> threads with on that side. Cranked everything down by hand with a big o' 
> wrench ala the Riv video and torqued the crank bolts to the proper specs. 
> 
> 2. This has happened twice before. My previous commuter, an old Trek 
> converted to single speed had the same problem. Brand new Shimano UN55 
> installed by my LBS. Started clicking after 10 miles or so and never stopped. 
> And the previous BB/crank on the SimpleOne had the same noise, albeit louder.
> 
> Any suggestions? Has anyone run into a similar problem before? I'm fairly new 
> to fixed/ss. Am I missing something?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Eric
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Re: [RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

[Steve Palincsar]

On 10/17/2016 12:36 AM, Lungimsam wrote:

Is tge name pronounced:
"Ber-toad", or



"Bear-tood"

According to google translate, bear-too, with a rolling r




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[RBW] Clicking From Crank Area

[Eric Karnes]

I could use the collective wisdom of the group...

I have clicking sound that is driving me to distraction. It occurs on my 
SimpleOne when I pedal. Sounds like one click per pedal rotation and it's 
especially bad when I'm cranking down hard...as when I'm powering up a 
hill. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the crank area. Two issues add to 
the mystery:

1. Everything is new. Brand new Shimano UN55 bottom bracket and new Sugino 
XD2 crankset/chainrings. While it was my first bottom bracket install, I 
think everything went smoothly. Drive side threaded in almost all the way 
by hand without a problem. Non-drive side was a bit tougher, and I needed a 
wrench, but I attributed it to the anti-seize tape that they cover the 
threads with on that side. Cranked everything down by hand with a big o' 
wrench ala the Riv video and torqued the crank bolts to the proper specs. 

2. This has happened twice before. My previous commuter, an old Trek 
converted to single speed had the same problem. Brand new Shimano UN55 
installed by my LBS. Started clicking after 10 miles or so and never 
stopped. And the previous BB/crank on the SimpleOne had the same noise, 
albeit louder.

Any suggestions? Has anyone run into a similar problem before? I'm fairly 
new to fixed/ss. Am I missing something?

Thanks!

Eric

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