Re: [RBW] Medium Saddlesack Side Pockets

['John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners Bunch]

John

Yes, 700x32 size tube.  Sorry about neglecting to mention tube size

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ

On Sunday, April 14, 2019 at 8:55:57 PM UTC-4, John McBurney wrote:
>
> I’ll check but I’m pretty sure. The side pockets are big. What size tube? 
> 700x32? 
>
> John 
>
>
>

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[RBW] WT: 66cm Riv Ramboulliet for a 62-64cm Riv

[Bruce Curry]

Sean, I have an orange 64 frame to swap. Interested? Thanks. Bruce

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Re: [RBW] What're the best cantilever brakes out there?

[Drw]

Oh man, 
Those compass ones look super nice but I’d take the setup and power of the 
cx70/50 any day over those any day. I’m no expert mechanic but I’ve used cantis 
that with the way the compass ones do and, for me, they are a big pain. At this 
point I

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Re: [RBW] Re: Threadless Headset Questions

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

It may also interest the readers to know that the origin of such a…errr…
*whimsical* name came from the original iteration of Ibis Cycles, that was 
the purveyor of other whimsical names for bike components, such as the 
infamous Handjob rear cable stop on some of their frames, and the ugly 
welded Rosie Palm bar ends.


On Sunday, April 14, 2019 at 2:19:57 PM UTC-7, lconley wrote:
>
> The L stands for Limp. I will leave the rest to your imagination.
>
> On Sunday, April 14, 2019 at 4:56:15 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>>
>> And what does "LD" stand for?
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Threadless Headset Questions

[Ian A]

That's an argument for using one of these, Hugh! 
https://www.jensonusa.com/Problem-Solvers-Locking-Headset-Spacer (as already 
referenced by Bryan Cole in this thread).

I have the same idea, but with an integrated cable stop on my two threadless 
bikes. It makes swapping stems or changing bar height a lot easier.

IanA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Threadless Headset Questions

[S]

I would explain it this way: the cap holds everything in place while you center 
the stem and tighten the stem bolts. The stem is what actually holds everything 
safely and securely together. With the stem bolts tightened, you could, if you 
wanted, throw away the cap and go riding. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Threadless Headset Questions

[hugh flynn]

The ease of adjustment for threadless stems is indeed so great that it is
astounding how hard it can be to describe properly...

That said, the gains offered by simplicity are offset by the frequency with
which one has to do it. For all the claimed complexity of threaded headset
adjustmemt, one doesn't have to fiddle with headset preload when changing
or adjusting a quill stem.

Hugh "net gain is null" Flynn
Newburyport, MA

On Sun, Apr 14, 2019 at 11:07 PM Drw  wrote:

> Yes. This is what kept me away from threadless for so long. It seemed so
> complicated based on descriptions. In reality it’s super simple. So much so
> that I questioned what I was doing the first few times. “Is the stem bolt
> actually holding the fork on the bike?” Still runs thru my head.
>
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Re: [RBW] Medium Saddlesack Side Pockets

[Drw]

I’d describe them as flat/envelope-like. You get length and height, but there 
is no depth. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Threadless Headset Questions

[Drw]

Yes. This is what kept me away from threadless for so long. It seemed so 
complicated based on descriptions. In reality it’s super simple. So much so 
that I questioned what I was doing the first few times. “Is the stem bolt 
actually holding the fork on the bike?” Still runs thru my head. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Threadless Headset Questions

[Joe Bernard]

It may be easier to adjust threadless, but no one on this thread has explained 
it well. I'm not even going to try as I don't think I'm a trustworthy source 
for the info, either. For such a simple procedure, it's stunning to me how hard 
it is to get a straight answer on the internet for it. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Threadless Headset Questions

[Patrick Moore]

Oh, and from 3 x 1 cm spacers underneath to the equivalent of 1
("equivalent" because the present stem's clamp is longer than the others
that I installed by about 1 cm).

On Sun, Apr 14, 2019 at 8:22 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> ...
> I've gone from 8 cm and 10* or so rise through 4 iterations in length and
> angle to the present 10 cm and -17* on the Matthews, have have been
> wondering about 11 cm; so yes, threadless does have its drawbacks.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Threadless Headset Questions

[Patrick Moore]

Jim G's stem calculator is an easy - and cheap - way to estimate stem
length and reach. I used to make cardboard templates, but digital in this
case is better.

I've gone from 8 cm and 10* or so rise through 4 iterations in length and
angle to the present 10 cm and -17* on the Matthews, have have been
wondering about 11 cm; so yes, threadless does have its drawbacks.

On Sun, Apr 14, 2019 at 2:02 PM 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

>
> George, is that a threadless issue? I was looking at the slack headtube
> and wondering how it's all going to play out with the wavy bars (arriving
> next week), but that would be the case with a threaded headset as well. Is
> there that much more variety of stems for threadless?
>

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Re: [RBW] Threadless Headset Questions

[Patrick Moore]

Us the top cap bolt only for initial bearing adjustment - bearing load -
before the stem is clamped down. (In fact, you don't even need the top cap
bolt to adjust bearing load, but it makes this easier) and hold it in place
with the stem clamp.

One trick is to adjust the top cap bolt -- before clamping stem -- just so
tight that, if you pick up the bike front-wheel-down and swing the front
wheel gently, there is no binding. Hold in place with stem clamp.

To re-adjust: loosen stem clamp and adjust bearing load; re-tighten clamp.

Much easier than threaded systems -- can be done on the trail (rarely
needed, IME) in 5 minutes with allen wrench.



On Sun, Apr 14, 2019 at 11:51 AM 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Getting to know GBW includes my first ever threadless headset. A few
> questions:
>
> -- Does tightening/loosening the top allen bolt tighten/loosen the headset
> and thus effect bearing wear? If so, tips for proper tightening please?
>
> -- Is adjusting stem height a matter of removing the top allen bolt and
> restacking the spacers and stem bits to the desired height?
>
> -- Anything else a threaded headset lad outta know in riding and wrenching
> a threadless headset?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
> www.CatholicHalos.org
> www.DeaconPatrick.org
>
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-- 



**





*Still 'round the corner there may waitA new road or a secret gate,And
though we pass them by today,Tomorrow we may come this wayAnd take the
hidden paths that runTowards the Moon or to the Sun.*
--- J.R.R. Tolkien
---
Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews
By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching
Other professional writing services
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Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique

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Re: [RBW] What're the best cantilever brakes out there?

[Steve Palincsar]

On 4/14/19 8:00 PM, Erik Wright wrote:
I'm thinking about getting canti posts brazed onto my sidepull Sam 
Hillborne to fit a wider tire / make wide tire installation easier. 
Canti brakes would be replacing Paul Racers.


If I go this route, what are the best options out there? I figure top 
of the line is Paul,



No, the top of the line is the Rene Herse cantilever.


but what's a more affordable brake? I see a lot of chatter around 
Shimano CX70, but hear they're discontinued. Is there a comparable 
option available now, or does it make sense to hunt down a used set of 
CX70s? If I splurge on Neo Retros, am I gaining anything functionally 
over other options?



Or a used set of the Shimano Deore XT wide profile cantilevers like the 
BR-M730


SHIMANO DEORE XT brakes !! BR-m730 !!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHIMANO-DEORE-XT-brakes-BR-m730/123718524215?hash=item1cce32dd37:g:hp0AAOSwCHBbHTSa

or this one

Shimano Deore XT "Deer Head" Cantilever brakes BR-MC70

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-Deore-XT-Deer-Head-Cantilever-brakes-BR-MC70/123731334609?hash=item1ccef655d1:g:1b0AAOSwGHxcrrh0

?

But really, there's just nothing better than this one for a nice bike

Image result for rene herse cantilever brake

since you can be sure the posts will be put in exactly the right place.


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Re: [RBW] Tolkien themed MIT Atlantis

[David Bivins]

I agree with this so much. My partner had a bike that was rescued and built
up by a friend - totally free and assembled with love, but still an
inexpensive Jamis something- or-other. She took it on long rides around the
city, to Coney Island, etc. The seat post kind of sucked and the saddle
would move slightly and make her uncomfortable. I replaced it and the
saddle with other cheap components, but it was always cheap. Then when she
started commuting to work, she got a Citibike (bike share) membership which
was very convenient based on her origin and destination. Neither bike made
her happy. They were means to an end.
I happened to find an almost new Clem H for a ridiculously good price in
early February of this year, and I tailored it to her needs as a
Valentine's Day gift (basket, fenders, MKS Lamda pedals). She has been
blown away by it. She gets it. She says "it's like floating along, it's so
much fun and feels so good to ride." I'm so happy to have given her the
opportunity to truly enjoy riding, even if the ride is a means to an end.
In truth, I can't say I got her a better bike than I have, because we both
have Clem H's. I end up riding a Tern/Xtracycle Cargo Node more often
because I have kid-hauling duties. And I've modified my Clem more than hers
so that at least they look a little different. My basket's on the rear, and
she has fatter tires. I have orange bar tape and she has a cool black Crane
bell.

Anyway, thanks for posting that, James. Wise words.

David B in Brooklyn

On Sat, Apr 13, 2019 at 7:54 PM James / Analog Cycles <
analogcyc...@gmail.com> wrote:

>
> My policy with bikes for kids/significant others who are not super into
> riding yet: get them a BETTER bike than you have, so they have a fighting
> chance of getting into riding.  I am so bummed when people are like my
>  isn't into riding.  But the person who isn't into riding is
> riding a bike that's 10X less comfortable and 100% harder to use and ride
> than the person who is doing the complaining.  Gotta turn that on it's
> head.
>
> -james
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Last Call: Parts donations for San Diego BSC hubbahubbah tandem

[Tim Bantham]

I've got 9 speed SunRace thumb shifters I'd donate.

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Re: [RBW] Last Call: Parts donations for San Diego BSC hubbahubbah tandem

[John McBurney]

I have a brand new VO Crazy bar and quill stem. I decided not to use em. If
you can use em they are yours.

John

On Sun, Apr 14, 2019 at 8:34 PM Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow Haus Bicycles <
4824...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hey All!
>
> We're in the last phases of finalizing everything for Riv and our donated
> Hubbahubbah.
>
> Do you have any 9 speed parts laying around?  Bosco handlebars? etc...take
> a look-see at the link below for a parts list.
>
>
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1U3bY8-FZaXw7SIsJkg2fkQNCtCtAlxafP3xlrLh7VSM/edit?usp=sharing
>
> I'll probably wrap up this effort by Friday.
>
> Thanks to Laing for the brakes!!!
>
>
> (If you're lost on where this project is coming from check out the
> GoFundMe page along with the updates linked HERE
> )
>
>
>
> BTW if you want to contribute but don't have parts, you are still
> welcome to throw a few bucks at the GoFundMe campaign.  Everything will go
> to Riv for parts...
>
>
> Cheers,
>
>
> Alex, Yellow Haus Bicycles
> Rochester, NY
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Medium Saddlesack Side Pockets

[John McBurney]

I’ll check but I’m pretty sure. The side pockets are big. What size tube?
700x32?

John

On Sun, Apr 14, 2019 at 8:18 PM 'John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> How large are the side pockets on the medium saddlesack?   Can you fit 2
> rolled up tubes in boxes in a side pocket sack??
>
> The pictures show the side pockets almost flush with the bag, leaving very
> little depth.   Maybe just an illusion.
>
> I am used to the side pockets on a Carradice type bag and an Ostrich S2.
> These can easilyy hold 2 tubes in boxes.
>
> Are the medium saddlesack side pockets as big???
>
> TIA
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
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[RBW] Last Call: Parts donations for San Diego BSC hubbahubbah tandem

[Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow Haus Bicycles]

Hey All!

We're in the last phases of finalizing everything for Riv and our donated 
Hubbahubbah.

Do you have any 9 speed parts laying around?  Bosco handlebars? etc...take 
a look-see at the link below for a parts list.  

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1U3bY8-FZaXw7SIsJkg2fkQNCtCtAlxafP3xlrLh7VSM/edit?usp=sharing

I'll probably wrap up this effort by Friday.

Thanks to Laing for the brakes!!!


(If you're lost on where this project is coming from check out the GoFundMe 
page along with the updates linked HERE 
)



BTW if you want to contribute but don't have parts, you are still 
welcome to throw a few bucks at the GoFundMe campaign.  Everything will go 
to Riv for parts...


Cheers,


Alex, Yellow Haus Bicycles
Rochester, NY


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[RBW] What're the best cantilever brakes out there?

[Joe Bernard]

CX50s are still available and functionally the same as CX70. But the answer for 
power and ease of setup (and no cable stops at headtube and seat clamp) is 
linear pull 

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[RBW] Medium Saddlesack Side Pockets

[Joe Bernard]

I've fit one in..the width and height is big, but depth is kinda not-so-deep. 
You'll get two folded tubes in one pocket easy, but keeping them in boxes 
increases the mass a lot and unnecessarily. 

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[RBW] Medium Saddlesack Side Pockets

['John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners Bunch]

How large are the side pockets on the medium saddlesack?   Can you fit 2 
rolled up tubes in boxes in a side pocket sack??

The pictures show the side pockets almost flush with the bag, leaving very 
little depth.   Maybe just an illusion.

I am used to the side pockets on a Carradice type bag and an Ostrich S2.  
These can easilyy hold 2 tubes in boxes.

Are the medium saddlesack side pockets as big???

TIA

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ

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[RBW] Threadless Headset Questions

[Coal Bee Rye Anne]

Locking spacer like this:
https://problemsolversbike.com/products/headset/locking_spacer_-_6788

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[RBW] What're the best cantilever brakes out there?

[Erik Wright]

I'm thinking about getting canti posts brazed onto my sidepull Sam 
Hillborne to fit a wider tire / make wide tire installation easier. Canti 
brakes would be replacing Paul Racers.

If I go this route, what are the best options out there? I figure top of 
the line is Paul, but what's a more affordable brake? I see a lot of 
chatter around Shimano CX70, but hear they're discontinued. Is there a 
comparable option available now, or does it make sense to hunt down a used 
set of CX70s? If I splurge on Neo Retros, am I gaining anything 
functionally over other options?

Thanks!

Erik, Philly

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[RBW] Threadless Headset Questions

[Joe Bernard]

LD stands for Lame Designation. Because I hate cheesy smirking names for bike 
parts. 

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[RBW] Threadless Headset Questions

[Coal Bee Rye Anne]

Threadless will become easy to adjust or readjust once you do it a few times 
with the added benefit that you’ll only need an Allen hex key to do the whole 
combo (size of the bolts may vary stem to stem so you may still need more than 
one hex key in certain situations.)  I’m not advocating for threadless over 
threaded and personally enjoy both!   However, despite the relative ease of 
adjustment once you get familiar with it I do have one recommendation that may 
improve or simplify your experience while fiddling with stems and bars.  Look 
for a “locking threadless headset spacer” and add it to the bottom of the 
spacer stack, directly above the upper bearing cover and beneath any other 
spacers and the stem.  It’ll look like a spacer with a built in seatpost or 
stem clamp.  The first time you preload the bearings with that top bolt/cap you 
then tighten both the stem and that locking spacer.  After that if you change 
stems you just undo the stem and any additional spacers above that locking 
spacer and shuffle accordingly and leave the locking spacer alone.  your 
headset remains adjusted as is with no need to adjust preload again and again 
while you swap stems bars at leisure just like with a threaded headset and 
quill stem.  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Threadless Headset Questions

[lconley]

The L stands for Limp. I will leave the rest to your imagination.

On Sunday, April 14, 2019 at 4:56:15 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> And what does "LD" stand for?
> On 4/14/19 4:47 PM, lconley wrote:
>
> I seem to end up with LD type stems on most of my bikes with threadless 
> headsets (took a while before I figured out what LD stood for). The 
> exception is the HHH where I have the threadless Bullmoose handlebars which 
> clamp directly to the steerer tube on top of a huge stack of spacers. The 
> LD stem is the best way to get the height that I am looking for and the 
> esthetics are better than the typical threadless stem - I grew up with 
> threaded, so I have never been fond of the clunky look of the threadless 
> stems. 
>
> The removable faceplate on most threadless stems sure does make it easier 
> to change handlebars, but I am still not a big fan of threadless. Bit of a 
> retro-grouch I guess.
>
> I already have a Crust LD stem patiently awaiting the GBW.
> -- 
>
> Steve Palincsar
> Alexandria, Virginia 
> USA
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS Nitto Racks M12, Marks, R15

[Frank Brose]

Yes it is.
Frank

On Saturday, April 13, 2019 at 6:49:52 PM UTC-5, Edo wrote:
>
> On Thursday, 4 April 2019 14:20:32 UTC-4, Frank Brose  wrote: 
> > Marks Rack Sold 
> > M12 Sold 
> > 
> > On Wednesday, April 3, 2019 at 3:20:09 PM UTC-5, Frank Brose wrote: 
> > I'm done. I have the racks on the bikes I need and ride so these are for 
> sale. All in good shape with very little use. Prices include shipping in 
> the CONUS.   
> > Thanks, 
> > Frank 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Nitto m12 been mounted so might require some minor adjustment for your 
> application. $60 
> > Nitto Marks all the hardware. Struts have been cut to 9cm and 27cm $100 
> > Nitto R15 excellent condition with uncut struts $130 
>
> Hi 
> Is your r15 still available 
> Thanks 
> Ed

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Re: [RBW] Re: Threadless Headset Questions

[Steve Palincsar]

And what does "LD" stand for?

On 4/14/19 4:47 PM, lconley wrote:
I seem to end up with LD type stems on most of my bikes with 
threadless headsets (took a while before I figured out what LD stood 
for). The exception is the HHH where I have the threadless Bullmoose 
handlebars which clamp directly to the steerer tube on top of a huge 
stack of spacers. The LD stem is the best way to get the height that I 
am looking for and the esthetics are better than the typical 
threadless stem - I grew up with threaded, so I have never been fond 
of the clunky look of the threadless stems.


The removable faceplate on most threadless stems sure does make it 
easier to change handlebars, but I am still not a big fan of 
threadless. Bit of a retro-grouch I guess.


I already have a Crust LD stem patiently awaiting the GBW.
--


Steve Palincsar
Alexandria, Virginia
USA

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Re: [RBW] Tolkien themed MIT Atlantis

[Toshi Takeuchi]

Definitely heartwarming to hear about your daughter and your family.  May
you have many wonderful adventures together.

Toshi in Oakland, CA

On Sat, Apr 13, 2019 at 4:54 PM Rachel P  wrote:

> Hi folks!-new to posting the list but have been following for a few years.
>
> That's our (er, my daughter's) Tolkien-mobile so a shout out to Candice
> and James for the build :). We are now a Riv squared family: my completely
> orange Cheviot and her Atlantis. Seven bikes in the garage now--car's been
> kicked to the curb for the last 3 years. Or maybe 8 bikes now since my son
> just got a new bigger Raleigh. My husband will converted soon so we'll be
> Riv Cubed in a year I reckon.
>
> James and Candice spiffed my All-City Space Horse up for a triathalon
> (don't ask: partially done for a dare and I didn't drown so it was a good
> race esp when you have glitter on your handlebars!!) so we went back to
> them for her bike after trawling many a bike store big and
> small--Goldilocks knows what she wants and it was in a cabin in VT!
>
> The most awesome thing was watching my daughter and Candice go out to
> check out the fit and having her come back with a Cheshire cat grin--we
> have already been out to Walden Pond this weekend and had a blast since it
> was a rare 60 degrees and sunny in New England.
>
> I had confidence I wasn't the only parent who purchased a Riv for a teen
> (thank you Bicycle Belle--I love reading about your adventures!!) and I
> thought, well, she's 1) not getting a car from us since driving in the
> greater Boston area is a fool's errand with the traffic 2) she has not ever
> asked for a new computer or smartphone and 3) likes to ramble outside--so
> why not? It's costs as much  but more valuable than a smartphone and a Mac
> Airbook.  And she and her father adore the Hobbit--the troll bit about
> mutton always comes out if I ever serve the same dish for dinner twice: one
> day I might just have to serve mutton!
>
> It seemed fate that she and this bike would meet and go off exploring
> together for many years -- planning for lots of rambles this summer and
> fall and winter (and at least one bike repair class for her: just finished
> outfitting 2/3 of the bikes in the fleet with their own flat and tool kit,
> whew!).
>
> Three cheers for an excellent set of wheels!
>
> Rachel
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Monday, April 8, 2019 at 5:00:08 PM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!
> wrote:
>>
>> 1. Analog (James, et al.): You are amazing. I am in awe that you dreamed
>> up and then carried out the idea to include whole passages of Tolkien on
>> this Rivendell bike. This is just fantastic. Hits all the pleasure centers
>> in my brain - bikes, books, endearing quotes, darling teenagers who are
>> showing such promise... You folks are truly talented and artistic - thanks
>> for sharing this here - what a treat!
>>
>> 2. I’d LOVE to see/read an interview with this girl. To be this directed
>> and precise and artsy at age 13 is nothing short of astounding. (I have a
>> 13 yo boy who rides a 45 cm Clem, and he is nothing like this other child!)
>> Is she on Instagram? Oh, how I would love to follow her adventures.
>>
>> 3. And who says kids can’t have Rivendells, huh?!? Best thing I’ve seen
>> in a long time!
>
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[RBW] Re: Threadless Headset Questions

[lconley]

I seem to end up with LD type stems on most of my bikes with threadless 
headsets (took a while before I figured out what LD stood for). The 
exception is the HHH where I have the threadless Bullmoose handlebars which 
clamp directly to the steerer tube on top of a huge stack of spacers. The 
LD stem is the best way to get the height that I am looking for and the 
esthetics are better than the typical threadless stem - I grew up with 
threaded, so I have never been fond of the clunky look of the threadless 
stems. 

The removable faceplate on most threadless stems sure does make it easier 
to change handlebars, but I am still not a big fan of threadless. Bit of a 
retro-grouch I guess.

I already have a Crust LD stem patiently awaiting the GBW.

Laing
Cocoa FL


>

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[RBW] Re: FS -- Bike Bags, Riv and other

[WETH]

Tom,
Sent an email last night to the email address you listed. Hoping you got it.  
I’m interested in the black saddlesack.
Thanks,
Erl

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[RBW] FS: Simpleone

[LyleBogart{AT}gmail.com]

Beautiful bike. Mercifully, perhaps, it’s too small for me. Good luck!

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[RBW] Re: Threadless Headset Questions

[ted]

DP, re stem angles:
back in the day, virtually all quill stems had 73 (aka -17) deg. extensions. 
With threadless stems 90 deg. is common, as is 84, 73 is easy to find too, 
probably others as well.

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[RBW] Re: Threadless Headset Questions

[Joe Bernard]

Yes, there's a schmillion angles and lengths for threadless stems. Fortunately 
they usually come with open-face clamps so it's easy to buy a stack of cheap 
used ones and fiddle with fit until you find what you like. Then buy a fancy 
one!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

[Steve Palincsar]

I've got 7, some a year old, some around 10 years old.  I had one that 
went from brand-new-hard to very soft in a matter of 100 miles / 2 
weeks.  They replaced it under warranty -- with the Ti rail model!  
Other than that, I think I've had one that's needed serious tensioning.


On 4/14/19 11:57 AM, 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch wrote:

Och, James! How frustrating for you and all involved! May I ask what Berthoud's 
response and support as been?

My experience with my saddle, which I've had over a year, in extensive use, is 
it is by far my preferred saddle, though I've only a data point of one saddle. 
Prior to reading this, I'd figured I would use my Rivet saddles and then get 
Berthoud saddles once I needed to. Hearing your experience has me wondering 
about that plan, so knowing Berthoud's customer service record would be very 
helpful.

With abandon,
Patrick


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USA

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[RBW] Re: Threadless Headset Questions

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Thanks, Kai! The idea to be sure and set the bearings via the top bolt first, 
then tighten the stem bolt is key.

George, is that a threadless issue? I was looking at the slack headtube and 
wondering how it's all going to play out with the wavy bars (arriving next 
week), but that would be the case with a threaded headset as well. Is there 
that much more variety of stems for threadless?

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Threadless Headset Questions

[George Schick]

I don't dislike threadless headsets.  In fact, I have several bikes with 
'em.  But one feature that have found to be a bit more annoying than with 
the old threaded "quill" stems is the fact that they come in a variety of 
different lengths and angles.  Used to be, when you went to set up your 
bike's bars with a quill stem you could figure out how far you wanted the 
"reach" to be, usually by placing your elbow against the nose of the saddle 
and then measuring the distance to the end of your fingers, and then buying 
the proper length stem so that the top of the bars would just fit to that 
measurement.  This distance could vary a bit, of course, depending on how 
much higher or lower you set the stem below the saddle.

With these threadless jobs you can start with the same measurement but then 
have to make tricky guesstimates to try to figure you what stem angle and 
length gets the bars to the place where you want them.  It just seems like 
a bit more trouble.


On Sunday, April 14, 2019 at 1:23:49 PM UTC-5, Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY 
wrote:
>
> The top Allen bolt only does it's job (setting your bearing load) when the 
> stem bolts are loose. If they're tight (the stem bolts on the side) the top 
> bolt can do nothing. Fact is, you don't really need that top bolt and cap. 
> It's not a bad thing to have, but I used to faintly tighten the stem bolts 
> and tap the stem to taste before tightening up all the way, I could then 
> gaze through my steer tube at my tread passing by as I rode along (not 
> recommended George, watch out for that tree btw)
> -Kai

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[RBW] Re: FS: Brooks Saddles

[lconley]

Probably around 1000 miles. 

Laing

On Saturday, April 13, 2019 at 7:52:42 PM UTC-4, Mario Rocchio wrote:

> About how many miles do you have on that flyer? Looks so nice. 
>
> On Tuesday, February 12, 2019 at 5:40:19 PM UTC-5, lconley wrote: 
> > B-17 is sold 
> > 
> > On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 6:27:56 PM UTC-5, lconley wrote: 
> > Bump 
> > 
> > On Monday, January 28, 2019 at 2:34:31 PM UTC-5, lconley wrote: 
> >  Prices dropped to $65 and 75$ shipped CONUS. Includes Brooks adjusting 
> wrenches. 
> > 
> > On Thursday, January 24, 2019 at 10:25:44 AM UTC-5, lconley wrote: 
> > 
> > Standard Black B-17, new bike take-off, maybe 10 miles: $70 shipped 
> CONUS. 
> > 
> > 
> > Customized (chromed springs and rear bar from B-67), Honey Flyer 
> Special, beveled leather and copper rivets, excellent condition, great 
> patina: $80 shipped CONUS. 
> > 
> > 
> > My rear end requires B-67s and B-68s these days. Always looking for 
> B-68s if you want to trade. 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Laing 
> > Cocoa, FL 
>
>

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[RBW] Threadless Headset Questions

[Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY]

The top Allen bolt only does it's job (setting your bearing load) when the stem 
bolts are loose. If they're tight (the stem bolts on the side) the top bolt can 
do nothing. Fact is, you don't really need that top bolt and cap. It's not a 
bad thing to have, but I used to faintly tighten the stem bolts and tap the 
stem to taste before tightening up all the way, I could then gaze through my 
steer tube at my tread passing by as I rode along (not recommended George, 
watch out for that tree btw)
-Kai

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[RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

[John Phillips]

James,
Is it possible that the failing Berthoud saddles were waterproofed with 
the same material, and this had a hand in breaking down the leather? 
Not throwing stones here, just really curious.
John

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[RBW] Indexed derailure in mud/snow

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Oh. Yeah. I remember how derailures do not like wet, sticky, frozen, slushy mud 
and snow. Yesterday afternoon we get 5-6" of spring snow (sadly, after my ride. 
Oh well.). This morning's ride I took Beorn to see how it handles the mud. 
Verdict was unsurprising: wider tires float more and yield better control but 
also collect a lot more weight with the "peanut butter" goop.

However, my derailure reminded this kind of stuff messes with derailures, and 
it seems more so with indexed, as I can't do anything but shift to a lower 
gear. In my highest gear (coming down a very muddy CR21 at amazing speed, 
because of the float of 2.8" tires at speeds that "self-shed" the 
peanutbutter!) loads of skipping. Shift down a gear or two and smooth sailing.

Aside from drying/cleaning the derailure (not possible on the ride, obviously), 
suggestions for addressing this, both during the ride and after? Derailure is 
adjusted and shifting smoothly in all gears otherwise.

With abandon,
Patrick

www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
www.CatholicHalos.org
www.DeaconPatrick.org

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[RBW] Re: A visit to Sea Otter with my Appaloosa

[Ed Carolipio]

Thanks for the story.

We planned a vacation in the area around the same time so I scheduled a fam 
day just to check out the Festival on Thursday. First time for me as well, 
but I didn't bring a bike. Since the focus of the event is racing and not 
adventuring, I thought the bikes and tech on display at the festival were 
in the proper context. There was lots of racing going on but I didn't want 
to bore my kids by dragging them to those things. The major manufacturers 
were essentially displaying FS carbon fiber MTBs and drop bar gravel bikes, 
appropriate for those crowds but not of interest to me. They also had a 
couple of no drop, supported dirt rides - an MTB one and a gravel one - 
that I didn't sign up for but I would gladly have done them at least once.

As Grant has pointed out, manufacturers tilt their marketing toward racing 
- but much of that fancy tech do every day people who don't race and prefer 
to go adventuring actually need? You point out a 12sp hydraulic drive, but 
there were lots of examples of that. 

I did really like being around lots of fans of "riding bikes on dirt" since 
not many of those in my neck of the woods. My 5 year old son got a few laps 
in on the kids demo BMX track on a rigid bike - first time on dirt - and he 
had a blast. And he got to meet Danny McCaskill, so I can look forward to 
all the Ridiculousness videos in 5 years.

It took some hunting but there were several manufacturers who had parts and 
components that might be of interest to folks in this group, and having 
them there meant being able to see those products first hand and ask dumb 
questions. I was at the ODI booth as well, and they had all their grips 
there to try out. Some other booths I visited: Bikeflights ("Why you switch 
to UPS?"); Orange Seal (got to ask tons of questions to their rep); 
Panaracer (colored Gravel Kings!); Silca (demoed the Rolex of bike pumps); 
and Knog (big "Cobber" LED lights that mount onto frame tubes). I also ran 
into Russ and Laura from pathlesspedaled, who have a very Riv like 
perspective on cycling. Here's Russ' latest on Sea Otter 
.

So it was to the level of my expectation and I'm glad I took the time to 
go, but it's probably not a date I'd circle on a calendar or make a 
dedicated trip for.

--Ed C.

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[RBW] Threadless Headset Questions

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Getting to know GBW includes my first ever threadless headset. A few questions:

-- Does tightening/loosening the top allen bolt tighten/loosen the headset and 
thus effect bearing wear? If so, tips for proper tightening please?

-- Is adjusting stem height a matter of removing the top allen bolt and 
restacking the spacers and stem bits to the desired height?

-- Anything else a threaded headset lad outta know in riding and wrenching a 
threadless headset? 

With abandon,
Patrick

www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
www.CatholicHalos.org
www.DeaconPatrick.org

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[RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

[Jan Heine]

James,

I am surprised by your experience that Berthoud saddles wore out 
prematurely. How many saddles were affected? If it's a small number, it 
could have been one hide of leather that wasn't as good as the others...

We've sold hundreds of these saddles, and amongst our team, we've got about 
a dozen in regular – often hard – use. Testing the Juniper Ridge tires was 
hard on the saddle - long, cold, wet gravel rides on a fender-less bike. I 
put a small saddlebag under the saddle to protect it as much as possible, 
and it's still fine. So are all the others we have in use, including one of 
the very first prototypes (No. 024, I believe) that I have used on my Urban 
Bike for 12 years now. 

The leather tops are replaceable – not just in theory by drilling out 
rivets and resetting them, but in practice using a simple Torx wrench – but 
we've sold very few tops, indicating that these saddles last as long as the 
other posters suggest. The only problem we've heard of is that the screws 
can loosen as the leather shrinks a bit with age. We recommend tightening 
them every 6-8 months. If you lose one, we sell the replacements 
individually, not just as a set.

Jan Heine
Rene Herse Cycles
Reborn in the Cascade Mountains
www.renehersecycles.com

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[RBW] FS: Simpleone

[Karl]

Beautiful bike! Will make someone very happy! Now I need to quit looking!

Karl
Nashville, TN

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[RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

[David Wadstrup]

That’s very frustrating and sad to hear. I wonder whether this is something 
new-ish. I have 3 of their saddles and haven’t had this experience. But mine 
were all purchased around 2015. May I ask if your experiences were more recent 
than this?  Maybe it’s some sort of new treatment of the leather. I’d, too, be 
interested in hearing what Berthoud customer service had to say about it. 

Thank you for sharing this info! 

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[RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Och, James! How frustrating for you and all involved! May I ask what Berthoud's 
response and support as been?

My experience with my saddle, which I've had over a year, in extensive use, is 
it is by far my preferred saddle, though I've only a data point of one saddle. 
Prior to reading this, I'd figured I would use my Rivet saddles and then get 
Berthoud saddles once I needed to. Hearing your experience has me wondering 
about that plan, so knowing Berthoud's customer service record would be very 
helpful.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

[James / Analog Cycles]

Re: all the follow up questions about premature wear.  The leather gets 
stretched and broken in way to fast.  They go from being hard as a rock to 
super broken in within a half a year, and then instead of just staying 
broken in, they start to break down.  In other words, the saddle becomes to 
hammock'd out to be usable.  I've personally had 3 do it, before I caught 
the hint, and had it happen on a number of customer saddles as well, again 
to the point that I stopped selling them.  Additionally the finish on the 
leather would crack and flake.  Again, I've seen a few that have lasted.  I 
am drawn to the saddles, and want them to work.  It's more comfortable, 
before they become unusable, than a Brooks, for me and many folks.  But I 
can't get behind an expensive product that wears out in a spectacularly 
short period of time.  

I have no idea of Rene Herse knows about it.  Obviously their success rate 
with them is high enough that they can keep selling them.  Mine was not, so 
I don't!  

-james @ analog cycles  

On Tuesday, April 9, 2019 at 8:24:45 AM UTC-4, David Wadstrup wrote:
>
> I really like Berthoud saddles.  The Mente to me is the best saddle for 
> very upright riding positions.  Mainly because I don't have to ride with 
> the nose super high like I do with the Brooks.  I also like the Aspin for 
> bikes with drop bars.  I've been wondering, though, what the 
> Soulor/Galibier is like.  It's a narrower, racier saddle.  Does anyone here 
> have any experience with this saddle?  Is it too narrow?  Noticeably less 
> comfortable than the Aspin?
>

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[RBW] FS: Simpleone

[Adam]

Hey all,

It’s been a long time since I’ve been active on the listserve and am posting to 
share a bike I just listed on Craigslist. I recently purchased a very expensive 
electric cargo bike to be the family hauler and need to thin the stable to make 
up some funds. See my listing below and let me know if you have any questions. 

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/d/berkeley-rivendell-simpleone/6865610913.html

Thanks!
Adam

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Re: [RBW] WTT: Nitto bars for Nitto Bars

[Friend]

Yep.  I'm at a loss also, but the bars have been shipped.  A trade 
happened!  Thanks for the help.

On Sunday, April 14, 2019 at 3:09:41 AM UTC-4, Hetchins52 wrote:
>
> The interior diameter looks unlikely to accept a bar end shifter. 
> Otherwise, is the shape or rise of the Promenade different from a Bosco? It 
> looks very much like it.
> I don't see it on the "What Bars?" web site.
>
> David Lipsky
> Berkeley, CA
>
> On Saturday, April 13, 2019 at 4:52:36 PM UTC-7, jonsan wrote:
>>
>> Looks like a Nitto B602 Promenade bar.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] WTT: Nitto bars for Nitto Bars

['Hetchins52' via RBW Owners Bunch]

The interior diameter looks unlikely to accept a bar end shifter. 
Otherwise, is the shape or rise of the Promenade different from a Bosco? It 
looks very much like it.
I don't see it on the "What Bars?" web site.

David Lipsky
Berkeley, CA

On Saturday, April 13, 2019 at 4:52:36 PM UTC-7, jonsan wrote:
>
> Looks like a Nitto B602 Promenade bar.

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[RBW] A visit to Sea Otter with my Appaloosa

[Joe Bernard]

Mountain biking on a Schwinn Collegiate. That dude's awesome! 藍

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