Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: Saluki 62cm

2019-05-01 Thread Justin Schoop
Didn't get the pm. Shot me an email at schoopjus...@gmail.com

Justin

On Wed, May 1, 2019, 11:14 PM DarinM  wrote:

> Sent you pm, let me know if it didn’t go through.
>
> Darin
>
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[RBW] Re: FS Nitto Racks M12, Marks, R15

2019-05-01 Thread Frank Brose
*SOLD*
Thanks,
Frank

On Tuesday, April 30, 2019 at 6:50:37 AM UTC-5, Frank Brose wrote:
>
> No Love for the R-15? It's still available.
> Frank
>
> On Sunday, April 14, 2019 at 4:07:54 PM UTC-5, Frank Brose wrote:
>>
>> Yes it is.
>> Frank
>>
>> On Saturday, April 13, 2019 at 6:49:52 PM UTC-5, Edo wrote:
>>>
>>> On Thursday, 4 April 2019 14:20:32 UTC-4, Frank Brose  wrote: 
>>> > Marks Rack Sold 
>>> > M12 Sold 
>>> > 
>>> > On Wednesday, April 3, 2019 at 3:20:09 PM UTC-5, Frank Brose wrote: 
>>> > I'm done. I have the racks on the bikes I need and ride so these are 
>>> for sale. All in good shape with very little use. Prices include shipping 
>>> in the CONUS.   
>>> > Thanks, 
>>> > Frank 
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> > Nitto m12 been mounted so might require some minor adjustment for your 
>>> application. $60 
>>> > Nitto Marks all the hardware. Struts have been cut to 9cm and 27cm 
>>> $100 
>>> > Nitto R15 excellent condition with uncut struts $130 
>>>
>>> Hi 
>>> Is your r15 still available 
>>> Thanks 
>>> Ed
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: What's your Nitto Wavie Bar set up?

2019-05-01 Thread dougP
Thanks, John

I have similar PBH, with a 75 cm saddle height on my 58 cm Atlantis.  I 
have Origin8 Space Bars (similar bend) on a 10 cm stem.  I've been thinking 
about the Wavies since they are wider than my current bars.  I have 660 mm 
Jones Bars on my MTB and really like the width.  The Wavy is attractive for 
the width & similarity in bends to the Jones, and of course has the 
advantage of working with my current stem.  Thinking more seriously now.  
Thanks for the info.

dougP

On Wednesday, May 1, 2019 at 5:51:54 PM UTC-7, John Phillips wrote:
>
> Hi Doug,
>
> Currently I have an 11cm Tallux and Albatross bars on my Hunq, but I 
> find my hands spend more time up closer to the bend rather than back near 
> the bar ends, so I thought the 13cm Tallux might be worth a try with the 
> Wavie bars. 
>
>  I lowered my saddle so that I could pedal with my arches over the 
> spindles of my pedals. IIRC, this puts my saddle at about 71cm from the 
> bottom bracket, rather than 74cm for my 85cm PBH, and so I'm also a bit 
> closer to the handlebars than I used to be. 
>
> If I'm too stretched, I can try the 11cm Tallux with the Wavie bars.
>
> John
>
> On Wednesday, May 1, 2019 at 5:06:57 PM UTC-7, dougP wrote:
>>
>> John:
>>
>> What length stem are you currently running on your Hunq?
>>
>> dougP
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Saluki 62cm

2019-05-01 Thread DarinM
Sent you pm, let me know if it didn’t go through.

Darin

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Wavie Bar Photos

2019-05-01 Thread tom coppedge
Hey Rob, thanks very much.  Do you have an Atlantis?

If I had to keep one bike, it would be this old 64 Atlantis.  It's
technically too big (the standover could cause some man damage if I'm not
careful in a fall), but I love the feel of a big bike on the road, and the
look.  It's a classic, and so versatile.  The Wavie, or Ahearne+Map, are
wonderful bars for this bike, allowing comfortable control on the road or
even singletrack.  And it's hard to beat the 2.1 Nanos; such a great
all-conditions tire, unless you're in really mucky stuff.  Surprisingly
fast and quiet on the road, too.

Thanks again,
Tom

On Tue, Apr 30, 2019 at 6:04 PM Rob Kristoff  wrote:

> Tom, I usually don't like upright bars on Atlantises, but something about
> your bike just looks perfect to me. Good job, and thanks for the review.
>
> Rob
>
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[RBW] Re: What's your Nitto Wavie Bar set up?

2019-05-01 Thread tc
John,
I have a 12cm reach Tallux for the Wavie on my 64 Atlantis.  With that 
stem, the bar ends don't quite come back as far as the back (saddle) side 
of the vertical part of the stem.

When I was deciding on the stem reach for the Wavie, I knew I wanted a 
slightly more aggressive position.  I have Brooks B17 Imperial saddles on 
all of my bikes...and I know the distance between the saddle nose and a 
straight line connecting the two bar ends for a more aggressive, and a 
moderately aggressive position.  So, given the sweep back of the bar in 
question, and level of aggressiveness I'm after, I just deduce the required 
stem reach to get that saddle nose to bar end distance I'm after.  Works 
for me.

Tom

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[RBW] Re: What's your Nitto Wavie Bar set up?

2019-05-01 Thread 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch
You're gonna love that 66cm width!

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: What's your Nitto Wavie Bar set up?

2019-05-01 Thread John Phillips
I also have wider than normal shoulders for being 5'9", so my needs are a 
bit idiosyncratic.

But I was just curious how people have their Wavie bars set up, rather than 
wanting to copy a particular set up.

John

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[RBW] Re: What's your Nitto Wavie Bar set up?

2019-05-01 Thread John Phillips
Hi Doug,

Currently I have an 11cm Tallux and Albatross bars on my Hunq, but I 
find my hands spend more time up closer to the bend rather than back near 
the bar ends, so I thought the 13cm Tallux might be worth a try with the 
Wavie bars. 

 I lowered my saddle so that I could pedal with my arches over the 
spindles of my pedals. IIRC, this puts my saddle at about 71cm from the 
bottom bracket, rather than 74cm for my 85cm PBH, and so I'm also a bit 
closer to the handlebars than I used to be. 

If I'm too stretched, I can try the 11cm Tallux with the Wavie bars.

John

On Wednesday, May 1, 2019 at 5:06:57 PM UTC-7, dougP wrote:
>
> John:
>
> What length stem are you currently running on your Hunq?
>
> dougP
>

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[RBW] Re: What's your Nitto Wavie Bar set up?

2019-05-01 Thread Adam Leibow
ive got a 110mm stem on my 58cm sam hillborne and i find the reach to be 
perfect. of course, there are other factors at play. 

On Wednesday, May 1, 2019 at 9:08:43 AM UTC-7, John Phillips wrote:
>
> I ordered a Wavie Bar & a 130mm reach Tallux stem from Rivendell for 
> my Hunqapillar yesterday. 
>
> So I was curious: which stems, with how much reach, you have found you 
> prefer with your Wavie bars?
>
> Also which grips (or tape), shifters, brakes or anything else you chose to 
> perfect your Wavie bar set ups?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
>

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[RBW] Re: What's your Nitto Wavie Bar set up?

2019-05-01 Thread 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch
Oh, and I placed my brake levers 145mm in, giving a continuious range of grip 
options with brake access, from outer (great for technical), middle (my 
default), snug to the lever mounts (through town), and 1-2 fingers over the 
lever mount for long steady climbs, headwinds and fast descents on roads. I 
wrapped the longer grip area with 1 layer of cotton tape then leather. You can 
sort of see it here in the shot forth from the bottom: 
https://deaconpatrick.org/riding-kings-crown-easter-morn

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: What's your Nitto Wavie Bar set up?

2019-05-01 Thread 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch
A 130mm stem sounds long for a wavy bar unless you are on a frame rather small 
for you or you really like being stretched out. But, if you're looking for that 
dialed in between the tires semi-to-mostly upright position of bliss that Riv's 
offer, you may prefer an 8-9 cm stem. That's roughly what my (non-threaded) 
stem measures on GBW with wavy bars, and it's fantastic, with me spot in the 
middle of the PBH range.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Dealing with Rust

2019-05-01 Thread Drw
I’ll second Laing’s suggestion. I like beausage on any bike that isnt mine. 
Maybe a little ocd keeps me from letting things be. But also, I’m a lot 
lazy/impatient. so I’ve never actually completed all the steps he lists, and 
usually just end up abrading the rust off, priming and painting with the 
closest color I can easily find

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Saluki 62cm

2019-05-01 Thread Justin Schoop
Bump

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[RBW] Will there be other riv-ish bikes on the 5 Borough Bike Tour (NYC)?

2019-05-01 Thread rpeters . vetpath


Hi Folks!

Just out of curiosity, anyone planning on doing this ride in NYC this coming 
Sunday? I imagine it to be like a brief flash of utopia where, for the day, 
bikes are allowed to roam free in prime car territory...too bad it can’t be the 
usual rather the exception! 

 Since my daughter is taking her Tolkien Atlantis, I could not in good 
conscience leave Orange Julius, I mean Orange Cheviot behind, right? There will 
be other rides for my All City this summer as I try not to make the other rides 
in the stable too jealous.

Regardless, I’ll be on the lookout for other cool bikes especially the Rivs—so 
perhaps I’ll see some of you there! 

Cheers,
Rachel 
Arlington MA

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[RBW] Re: What's your Nitto Wavie Bar set up?

2019-05-01 Thread dougP
John:

What length stem are you currently running on your Hunq?

dougP

On Wednesday, May 1, 2019 at 9:08:43 AM UTC-7, John Phillips wrote:
>
> I ordered a Wavie Bar & a 130mm reach Tallux stem from Rivendell for 
> my Hunqapillar yesterday. 
>
> So I was curious: which stems, with how much reach, you have found you 
> prefer with your Wavie bars?
>
> Also which grips (or tape), shifters, brakes or anything else you chose to 
> perfect your Wavie bar set ups?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
>

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[RBW] FS: 60cm Cheviot complete

2019-05-01 Thread scott minor
Fixing subject line..  sorry!  



On Wednesday, May 1, 2019 at 7:27:56 PM UTC-4, scott minor wrote:
>
> It pains me to part with this bike but I  must as I am moving countries in 
> a couple months and only have room to keep one bike.   
>
> I bought the Chev frame/fork new from Riv in ‘17, Rich built the wheelset 
> w a Shutter Precision generator hub in front, Deore rear.  The rest of the 
> bits I either had already or added as the setup evolved.  It has Billie 
> bars with a Simworks stem that’s nice and sturdy.  IRD Stem-mounted Silver 
> shifters (friction) and Diacompe brakes.   Tires are Soma Supple Vitesse 
> 700x48, super plush and fast!  The Tektro sidepulls that were originally on 
> the bike didn’t leave much room for clearance with these tires so I put on 
> some long reach Diacompe center pulls from Riv, used the plastic inserts 
> that let you run nutted brakes on a recessed frame, and they have worked 
> out great!  They stop well, don’t squeal, and have lots of clearance. 
>  Drivetrain is standard Sugino triple crankset from Riv, IRD Alpina front 
> derailleur, and Sun XCD rear.  11-32 9 speed.   
>
> Items pictured but NOT included in sale are the following:  B17 saddle, 
> saddle bag, water bottle cage. 
>
> Aside from those things the bike comes complete as pictured here 
>
> https://flickr.com/photos/147564748@N06/sets/72157708354122994 
>
> Asking $1625 + shipping via bikeflights 
>
> Located in Knoxville TN, pickup welcome. 
>
> Thanks!  -Scott 
>

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Re: [RBW] 60 Cheviot complete

2019-05-01 Thread John McBurney
Very nice.

Tempted but...

On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 7:28 PM scott minor  wrote:

> It pains me to part with this bike but I  must as I am moving countries in
> a couple months and only have room to keep one bike.
>
> I bought the Chev frame/fork new from Riv in ‘17, Rich built the wheelset
> w a Shutter Precision generator hub in front, Deore rear.  The rest of the
> bits I either had already or added as the setup evolved.  It has Billie
> bars with a Simworks stem that’s nice and sturdy.  IRD Stem-mounted Silver
> shifters (friction) and Diacompe brakes.   Tires are Soma Supple Vitesse
> 700x48, super plush and fast!  The Tektro sidepulls that were originally on
> the bike didn’t leave much room for clearance with these tires so I put on
> some long reach Diacompe center pulls from Riv, used the plastic inserts
> that let you run nutted brakes on a recessed frame, and they have worked
> out great!  They stop well, don’t squeal, and have lots of clearance.
> Drivetrain is standard Sugino triple crankset from Riv, IRD Alpina front
> derailleur, and Sun XCD rear.  11-32 9 speed.
>
> Items pictured but NOT included in sale are the following:  B17 saddle,
> saddle bag, water bottle cage.
>
> Aside from those things the bike comes complete as pictured here
>
> https://flickr.com/photos/147564748@N06/sets/72157708354122994
>
> Asking $1625 + shipping via bikeflights
>
> Located in Knoxville TN, pickup welcome.
>
> Thanks!  -Scott
>
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[RBW] 60 Cheviot complete

2019-05-01 Thread scott minor
It pains me to part with this bike but I  must as I am moving countries in a 
couple months and only have room to keep one bike.  

I bought the Chev frame/fork new from Riv in ‘17, Rich built the wheelset w a 
Shutter Precision generator hub in front, Deore rear.  The rest of the bits I 
either had already or added as the setup evolved.  It has Billie bars with a 
Simworks stem that’s nice and sturdy.  IRD Stem-mounted Silver shifters 
(friction) and Diacompe brakes.   Tires are Soma Supple Vitesse 700x48, super 
plush and fast!  The Tektro sidepulls that were originally on the bike didn’t 
leave much room for clearance with these tires so I put on some long reach 
Diacompe center pulls from Riv, used the plastic inserts that let you run 
nutted brakes on a recessed frame, and they have worked out great!  They stop 
well, don’t squeal, and have lots of clearance.  Drivetrain is standard Sugino 
triple crankset from Riv, IRD Alpina front derailleur, and Sun XCD rear.  11-32 
9 speed.  

Items pictured but NOT included in sale are the following:  B17 saddle, saddle 
bag, water bottle cage.

Aside from those things the bike comes complete as pictured here

https://flickr.com/photos/147564748@N06/sets/72157708354122994

Asking $1625 + shipping via bikeflights

Located in Knoxville TN, pickup welcome.

Thanks!  -Scott 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Chevoit or Clem jr L

2019-05-01 Thread Leah Peterson
Wise words from Kiley! You are spot on about step-through issue - I really wish 
it was a lower bar on my Betty Foy. 

Mom is getting a little light sage Cheviot in 2 weeks, maybe she will weigh in, 
too. Over dinner on our vacation, we were trying to come up with a name for her 
on this forum. We turned it over to my devastatingly clever 10 year old boy, 
and he offered Grammy the most perfect handle EVER.

The Granny Gear.

Coming to a forum near you! 😂


Sent from my iPhone

> On May 1, 2019, at 10:37 AM, Kiley Demond  wrote:
> 
> Oh, oh! I rode both at Riv HQ and picked the Cheviot because I loved the lugs 
> and the shade of orange (which is my favorite color) a pinch more. That 
> choice cost me thousands of dollars over the next few years as I took to 
> swapping out this and that. The Clem standard components would have fit me 
> better initially and I ended up making my Chev more like Clem. The Cheviot's 
> step-thru clearance isn't as significant as I would have liked. And I spent 
> forever trying to get a front fender to work with 55 tires, it's a snap with 
> a Clem. Ultimately, my answer would be that for all day riding and touring, 
> the Cheviot is a better option. For most everything else, Clem is a better 
> option, and you can buy your wife lots of other nifty things with the extra 
> $$;-). (And years before this, I almost bought a Betty Foy. If I had bought 
> that instead of a Dutch bike, I probably wouldn't be writing this at all.)
> 
>> On Monday, April 29, 2019 at 10:10:07 AM UTC-7, Justin Schoop wrote:
>> My wife has finally shown interest in a nice frame that's more comfortable 
>> than her road bike and surly LHT. I recommended the Clem and Chevoit and she 
>> really likes the idea of the step-thru frames. 
>> 
>> Hoping to get more insight into the two and what the major difference would 
>> be. Thanks!
> 
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Re: [RBW] Plus Tires for GBW

2019-05-01 Thread lconley
And here I was thinking that Grant had invented a new wheel standard.

Laing

On Wednesday, May 1, 2019 at 5:52:48 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

> Ahhh. I typed 27.7+, but that should be 27.5+, or 650b.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>

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Re: [RBW] Plus Tires for GBW

2019-05-01 Thread John McBurney
I didn’t see the follow up post where you said 27.7 which is obviously
27.5.

I struggle with the same question. I have a 650b/27.5 Bombadil running
Compass extralight Switchback Hill 48s which I absolutely love. These tires
are magic. I will not comment on flats due to a superstitious nature.

These are the biggest 650b tires Compass/Rene Herse offers. However they
now offer a knobby version of this tire.

Even more interestingly they recently introduced a 55x700 tire, the
antelope hill. I can’t imagine a larger 650b tire is far behind. It might
be worth an email or call.

All that said, what is in my quiver for this summer and fall mixed surface
adventures on my Bombadil are Bruce Gordon Rock n Road 43 ( with fenders)
and perhaps more interesting to you Panaracer Pacentti Quasimoto 27.5 x 2
(no fenders)  I have these on the shelf ready to mount but have not ridden
them.


John


On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 5:52 PM 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Ahhh. I typed 27.7+, but that should be 27.5+, or 650b.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
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[RBW] Re: Dealing with Rust

2019-05-01 Thread lconley
First I clean the spot with a pre-paint cleaner (alcohol will do, but I use 
R-M Pre-Kleano Surface Prep - I bought a gallon 20+ years ago). Then I sand 
the spot with a fiberglass rust eraser pen, then clean again, repeat if 
necessary, then prime with something like Rustoleum primer. I use a 
spraycan of the primer on a piece of scrap cardboard or plastic in one 
spot, then dab a brush in the wet primer, and then use the paint on the 
brush to prime the spot. When the primer is dry, then I paint with color. I 
am *not* a fan of abuseage. I have been known to carry bicycle forks into 
hobby stores to find the closest touch-up paint (single - no nail polish in 
the house to steal).

Laing
Cocoa FL

On Wednesday, May 1, 2019 at 12:13:40 PM UTC-4, Drew Henson wrote:

>
> I noticed the other day a few small rust spots on my ~6 month old MIT 
> Homer. One, in the pic below, on the seat stay lug. A little bit more on 
> the rear dropout which I don't have a pic of but look similar. I'm not 
> really concerned with anything structural at this point and it doesn't 
> bother me aesthetically just curious if there's anything I should do. A dab 
> of nail polish? Try to remove the rusty spot before that? I searched but 
> couldn't find much discussion on this so apologies if this is a topic that 
> has been beat to death.
>
>
> [image: rivrust.png]
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Plus Tires for GBW

2019-05-01 Thread 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch
Ahhh. I typed 27.7+, but that should be 27.5+, or 650b.

With abandon,
Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Plus Tires for GBW

2019-05-01 Thread John McBurney
That’s right

John

On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 5:40 PM ted  wrote:

> I believe John is asking if your GBW has 650b (aka 27.5) wheels or 700c
> (aka 29er) wheels.
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 1, 2019 at 1:33:27 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> John asked "700c?"
>>
>> What are you asking, John?
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
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Re: [RBW] Plus Tires for GBW

2019-05-01 Thread ted
I believe John is asking if your GBW has 650b (aka 27.5) wheels or 700c 
(aka 29er) wheels.

On Wednesday, May 1, 2019 at 1:33:27 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> John asked "700c?"
>
> What are you asking, John?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hiluki vintage ??

2019-05-01 Thread ted
Interesting. I was not aware of the fork crown evolution there. The one on 
your bike seems reminiscent of the Roadeo and Roadini crowns.


On Wednesday, May 1, 2019 at 9:13:58 AM UTC-7, Sean Steinle wrote:
>
> following up: UPS man came early so I ducked out of work for half an hour 
> to put the bike inside, as it was propped up against my garage with nobody 
> home for delivery.
>
> My bike seems to be an enigma in all ways. So, here's what we have:
>
> 58cm 650b Hilsen
> early SA serial number (so confirmed Toyo build)
> Saluki fork crown, like this: 
> http://www.cyclofiend.com/Images/rbw/rr38_pg45.jpg
> AHH decals and headbadge
> and to top things off, it's the lighter, Waterford Hilsen blue, not the 
> darker Toyo.
>
> Previous owner is a list member, and he's promised to tell me the history 
> of the bike when he gets a break for work. I suppose it's possible someone 
> just repainted and rebadged an old Saluki. I also wonder if Riv had an 
> unpainted Saluki frame lying around, and decided to make it a Hilsen?
>
> Either way, I'm excited by my findings, because A) I like unique things 
> with interesting histories, and B) I prefer the decals and headbadge of the 
> Saluki, so I thought about reaching out to the folks at RBW to see if they 
> still had any Saluki headbadges, and whether they'd sell me one for this 
> bike. That way, when the day comes to repaint, I can reincarnate it back to 
> it's 'original' form. I can't see why they wouldn't sell me one, if they 
> have them, but, who knows!
>
> Sean
>
> On Wednesday, May 1, 2019 at 9:47:53 AM UTC-5, Sean Steinle wrote:
>>
>> One thing that doesn't seem to get discussed with rebadged Salukis/early 
>> Toyo Hilsens is the fork crown. Does that have any meaning, or did they 
>> vary based on stock they needed to get rid of? All of the Toyo Hilsen's I 
>> see pics of seem to have the swirly fork crown. But, the Salukis had the 
>> style like this: http://www.cyclofiend.com/Images/rbw/rr38_pg45.jpg
>>
>> I'm actually taking delivery today of an old 58cm 650b Hilsen, which has 
>> the Saluki/Waterford Hilsen fork crown, but the owner said it's actually 
>> one of the earliest 650b Toyo Hilsens. I'll see what the BB stamp looks 
>> like when I get home tonight. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Dealing with Rust

2019-05-01 Thread Benz, Sunnyvale, CA
I'll add that if it really bugs you, you can get a rust converter. That 
will chemically treat the rust and provide a good foundation for that nail 
polish.


On Wednesday, May 1, 2019 at 9:23:13 AM UTC-7, Collin A wrote:
>
> On my Clem and other steel road bike, I'll clean with alcohol, then seal 
> with nail polish from my SO's stash. Theoretically, once you remove the 
> oxygen source (by covering/sealing), the steel should stop oxidizing. If 
> the rust spot is on a high abrasion area, I'll cover it with newbaums or 
> clear gorilla tape to prevent having to reapply the nail polish every 
> couple of months.
>

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[RBW] FS: Busch & Muller Luxos U, $35 shipped

2019-05-01 Thread Jim S.
Sold, thank you.

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Re: [RBW] Plus Tires for GBW

2019-05-01 Thread 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch
John asked "700c?"

What are you asking, John?

With abandon,
Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Plus Tires for GBW

2019-05-01 Thread John McBurney
700c?

On Sat, Mar 30, 2019 at 8:04 PM 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Post options for plus tires for Gus Boots Willsen here. Keep in mind the
> stated max from Riv is 2.8”.
>
> Maxxis (I think Riv. went with the Ikon Plus for at least the L prototype):
> https://www.maxxis.com/tires/bicycle/mountain?typeId=135&styleId=all
>
> Schwalbe (filter by tire size to get the plus tires. Nobby Nic looks like
> a main option) :
> https://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/off-road_tires
>
> Teravail (has a light casing option that looks intriguing for plush tire
> aficionados):
> https://www.teravail.com/
>
> Continental:
> https://www.continental-tires.com/bicycle
>
> Vee:
> https://www.veetireco.com/
>
> Preferences and recommendations from those with plus/fat tire experience?
> Other options I’ve missed?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
> www.CatholicHalos.org
> www.DeaconPatrick.org
>
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[RBW] FS: Busch & Muller Luxos U, $35 shipped

2019-05-01 Thread WETH
PM sent.
Thanks

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[RBW] Re: Plus Tires for GBW

2019-05-01 Thread 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch
Having ridden the Maxxis Ikon+ on my 27.7+ GBW a fair bit, it does great on dry 
hardpack and is noticeably lacking in snow, mud, and wet rocks and roots. I'm 
hoping to try Teravail's Kennabec light and supple next. Anyone have experience 
with them? (Yes, I realize I'm on the bleeding edge of the intersection of 
Rivendell and plus size tires, but anyone with experience on a Jones et al?). 
Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Saturday, March 30, 2019 at 6:04:49 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
> Post options for plus tires for Gus Boots Willsen here. Keep in mind the 
> stated max from Riv is 2.8”.
> 
> 
> Maxxis (I think Riv. went with the Ikon Plus for at least the L prototype):
> https://www.maxxis.com/tires/bicycle/mountain?typeId=135&styleId=all
> 
> Schwalbe (filter by tire size to get the plus tires. Nobby Nic looks like a 
> main option) :
> https://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/off-road_tires
> 
> 
> Teravail (has a light casing option that looks intriguing for plush tire 
> aficionados):
> https://www.teravail.com/
> 
> 
> Continental:
> https://www.continental-tires.com/bicycle
> 
> 
> Vee:
> https://www.veetireco.com/
> 
> 
> Preferences and recommendations from those with plus/fat tire experience? 
> Other options I’ve missed?
> 
> 
> With abandon,
> Patrick
> 
> 
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
> www.CatholicHalos.org
> www.DeaconPatrick.org

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Re: [RBW] Re: Singletracking/Offroading with Dynamo Lights and Hubs

2019-05-01 Thread John McBurney
If I’m in a situation where I think I might need a
More light for a period of time during a bike packing adventure I might be
tempted to carry one of my many battery lights to use as a supplement.

I do find the beam pattern of the IQ-X to be compelling though. The very
worst night ride I ever experienced was in a 24 hour mountain bike race
near Olympia WA (The 24 Hours of Capitol Punishment) when about 1 am a
thick fog rolled in off of the Puget Sound. In that stuff a head light was
just blinding and totally counterproductive. The best option was to run the
light on the bike (mounted on handlebars) at low. But I also realized that
light scatter bothered me and reduced my dark adaptation even when it
wasn’t foggy. When I rode the IQ-X in the dark for the first I was amazed
at the difference the light pattern made. My dark adaptation was better
preserved and I am much more comfortable with my peripheral vision

John

On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 12:01 PM Chris Corral 
wrote:

> I've always preferred Shutter Precision for my hubs. I rode Colorado Trail
> and Baja Divide with B&M IQ-X and honestly it was a great light. Perfect on
> road, good enough on the trail. I have since upgraded to a Sinewave, which
> is crazy bright. In theory, it can be run off of an external battery, like
> a flashlight, eliminating the low-light-while-climbing issue. I haven't
> used this feature yet because it doesn't bother me much but it can be
> annoying to stop and not have any light. I am also put off by the
> flickering during technical descents that is caused (I think) by the front
> wheel stopping momentarily. This is during jumps or really loose gravel
> where the front wheel may lock up a teeny bit. Otherwise, plenty of light.
> It is great.
>
> All said, I would love to compare the KLight and Sinewave. Having ridden
> both, they are both excellent lights. The Sinewave has more features (built
> in charging, etc).
>
> I don't know how much of a difference a hub would make. I have also used
> Shimano dynamo hubs and they're heavier, clunkier, louder. I don't honestly
> *feel* a difference in loss of power when riding though. just my 2 cents
>
>
> On Monday, April 29, 2019 at 3:33:45 PM UTC-7, Collin A wrote:
>>
>> Given some discussion in another thread about dynamo lighting use on
>> unpaved surfaces, I figured it would be worth bringing this up as a
>> separate thread.
>>
>> Personally, I have a kasai Dynacoil hub (evolution of a SP hub, I
>> believe) laced to an Alex Dm24 rim and wired with a K-lite bikepacker light
>> (gravel version) https://www.kliteusa.net/product-page/klite. It so far
>> has survived a year of pretty intense trail use (no snow, but submerged
>> quite a few times) and shows no sign of additional drag or poor energy
>> transfer. However, given the huge load that a 1300 lumen light can pull
>> from a little 6v/3A generator, I do notice an increase in drag when the
>> light is on when on pavement (chatter on the trail takes that away, though).
>>
>> In the context of night-time usage off-road, it is great and does a way
>> better job than my previous Supernova E3 light. The key thing to note is
>> that the light generation, at night and up hills, is usually quite low, but
>> does enough to light up the trail. The slow speeds mean that I have more
>> time to react so the lower light output isn't too much of an issue.
>> However, If I am out in the boonies with little to no ambient light and
>> heading down hill with enough speed for full light output, the dynamo light
>> on it's own doesn't cut it as all of the twists and turns on a typical
>> trail means that you will often be looking into a dark corner before the
>> bike (and light) makes that turn. For these reasons, I'll have a
>> supplemental headlamp to light the trail before I point my bike into the
>> turns. I don't think any light mounted to a bike would be enough in these
>> situations, on its own.
>>
>> That being said, I am much happier with the Klite when I venture off road
>> and feel much more confident knowing that it really pumps out the lumens
>> (if I can pedal fast enough). Its overkill for commuting, and with the
>> amount of light pollution the bay area puts out, I rarely have to worry
>> about a completely dark night.
>>
>> I haven't had the chance to mess around with the fancier sondelux hubs,
>> so maybe some folks can provide some comparissons or their own opinions on
>> the matter.
>>
>> Happy Monday,
>> Collin A
>>
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[RBW] Re: WTB: Saluki 62cm

2019-05-01 Thread Justin Schoop
Thanks for the heads up. From the pick that is exactly what I am looking 
for. I'm not on that forum so can't get in touch with the person.

On Wednesday, May 1, 2019 at 2:47:34 PM UTC-4, Kieran J wrote:
>
> Did that one mentioned on the Paceline Forum not pan out?
>
> KJ
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 1, 2019 at 10:03:58 AM UTC-7, Justin Schoop wrote:
>>
>> With all the rivendell frames that I've owned, the Saluki was/is my 
>> favorite. If there is a 62cm that someone is willing to part with please 
>> let me know. Thanks
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Saluki 62cm

2019-05-01 Thread Kieran J
Did that one mentioned on the Paceline Forum not pan out?

KJ


On Wednesday, May 1, 2019 at 10:03:58 AM UTC-7, Justin Schoop wrote:
>
> With all the rivendell frames that I've owned, the Saluki was/is my 
> favorite. If there is a 62cm that someone is willing to part with please 
> let me know. Thanks
>

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[RBW] Re: Chevoit or Clem jr L

2019-05-01 Thread Kiley Demond
Oh, oh! I rode both at Riv HQ and picked the Cheviot because I loved the 
lugs and the shade of orange (which is my favorite color) a pinch more. 
That choice cost me thousands of dollars over the next few years as I took 
to swapping out this and that. The Clem standard components would have fit 
me better initially and I ended up making my Chev more like Clem. The 
Cheviot's step-thru clearance isn't as significant as I would have liked. 
And I spent forever trying to get a front fender to work with 55 tires, 
it's a snap with a Clem. Ultimately, my answer would be that for all day 
riding and touring, the Cheviot is a better option. For most everything 
else, Clem is a better option, and you can buy your wife lots of other 
nifty things with the extra $$;-). (And years before this, I almost bought 
a Betty Foy. If I had bought that instead of a Dutch bike, I probably 
wouldn't be writing this at all.)

On Monday, April 29, 2019 at 10:10:07 AM UTC-7, Justin Schoop wrote:
>
> My wife has finally shown interest in a nice frame that's more comfortable 
> than her road bike and surly LHT. I recommended the Clem and Chevoit and 
> she really likes the idea of the step-thru frames. 
>
> Hoping to get more insight into the two and what the major difference 
> would be. Thanks!

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[RBW] WTB: Saluki 62cm

2019-05-01 Thread Justin Schoop
With all the rivendell frames that I've owned, the Saluki was/is my 
favorite. If there is a 62cm that someone is willing to part with please 
let me know. Thanks

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Re: [RBW] Re: daily post ur riv

2019-05-01 Thread Mike Williams
Love that Bomba Shawn!

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 1, 2019, at 11:59 AM, shawn b  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> My Bomba at home in the woods.
> 
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[RBW] Re: Dealing with Rust

2019-05-01 Thread Collin A
On my Clem and other steel road bike, I'll clean with alcohol, then seal 
with nail polish from my SO's stash. Theoretically, once you remove the 
oxygen source (by covering/sealing), the steel should stop oxidizing. If 
the rust spot is on a high abrasion area, I'll cover it with newbaums or 
clear gorilla tape to prevent having to reapply the nail polish every 
couple of months.

Hope this helps!
Collin

On Wednesday, May 1, 2019 at 9:13:40 AM UTC-7, Drew Henson wrote:
>
>
> I noticed the other day a few small rust spots on my ~6 month old MIT 
> Homer. One, in the pic below, on the seat stay lug. A little bit more on 
> the rear dropout which I don't have a pic of but look similar. I'm not 
> really concerned with anything structural at this point and it doesn't 
> bother me aesthetically just curious if there's anything I should do. A dab 
> of nail polish? Try to remove the rusty spot before that? I searched but 
> couldn't find much discussion on this so apologies if this is a topic that 
> has been beat to death.
>
>
> [image: rivrust.png]
>
>
>

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[RBW] FS: MKS Sylvan Touring pedals, 2 pair

2019-05-01 Thread Joe Bernard
Installed, ridden, look good, spin good, not used much by me but I can't 
remember if I bought either of them new. So you pay a little more for brand new 
or you buy mine..your choice!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hiluki vintage ??

2019-05-01 Thread Sean Steinle
following up: UPS man came early so I ducked out of work for half an hour 
to put the bike inside, as it was propped up against my garage with nobody 
home for delivery.

My bike seems to be an enigma in all ways. So, here's what we have:

58cm 650b Hilsen
early SA serial number (so confirmed Toyo build)
Saluki fork crown, like this: 
http://www.cyclofiend.com/Images/rbw/rr38_pg45.jpg
AHH decals and headbadge
and to top things off, it's the lighter, Waterford Hilsen blue, not the 
darker Toyo.

Previous owner is a list member, and he's promised to tell me the history 
of the bike when he gets a break for work. I suppose it's possible someone 
just repainted and rebadged an old Saluki. I also wonder if Riv had an 
unpainted Saluki frame lying around, and decided to make it a Hilsen?

Either way, I'm excited by my findings, because A) I like unique things 
with interesting histories, and B) I prefer the decals and headbadge of the 
Saluki, so I thought about reaching out to the folks at RBW to see if they 
still had any Saluki headbadges, and whether they'd sell me one for this 
bike. That way, when the day comes to repaint, I can reincarnate it back to 
it's 'original' form. I can't see why they wouldn't sell me one, if they 
have them, but, who knows!

Sean

On Wednesday, May 1, 2019 at 9:47:53 AM UTC-5, Sean Steinle wrote:
>
> One thing that doesn't seem to get discussed with rebadged Salukis/early 
> Toyo Hilsens is the fork crown. Does that have any meaning, or did they 
> vary based on stock they needed to get rid of? All of the Toyo Hilsen's I 
> see pics of seem to have the swirly fork crown. But, the Salukis had the 
> style like this: http://www.cyclofiend.com/Images/rbw/rr38_pg45.jpg
>
> I'm actually taking delivery today of an old 58cm 650b Hilsen, which has 
> the Saluki/Waterford Hilsen fork crown, but the owner said it's actually 
> one of the earliest 650b Toyo Hilsens. I'll see what the BB stamp looks 
> like when I get home tonight. 
>

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[RBW] What's your Nitto Wavie Bar set up?

2019-05-01 Thread John Phillips
I ordered a Wavie Bar & a 130mm reach Tallux stem from Rivendell for my 
Hunqapillar yesterday. 

So I was curious: which stems, with how much reach, you have found you 
prefer with your Wavie bars?

Also which grips (or tape), shifters, brakes or anything else you chose to 
perfect your Wavie bar set ups?

Thanks,

John

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[RBW] Re: Singletracking/Offroading with Dynamo Lights and Hubs

2019-05-01 Thread Chris Corral
I've always preferred Shutter Precision for my hubs. I rode Colorado Trail 
and Baja Divide with B&M IQ-X and honestly it was a great light. Perfect on 
road, good enough on the trail. I have since upgraded to a Sinewave, which 
is crazy bright. In theory, it can be run off of an external battery, like 
a flashlight, eliminating the low-light-while-climbing issue. I haven't 
used this feature yet because it doesn't bother me much but it can be 
annoying to stop and not have any light. I am also put off by the 
flickering during technical descents that is caused (I think) by the front 
wheel stopping momentarily. This is during jumps or really loose gravel 
where the front wheel may lock up a teeny bit. Otherwise, plenty of light. 
It is great.

All said, I would love to compare the KLight and Sinewave. Having ridden 
both, they are both excellent lights. The Sinewave has more features (built 
in charging, etc).

I don't know how much of a difference a hub would make. I have also used 
Shimano dynamo hubs and they're heavier, clunkier, louder. I don't honestly 
*feel* a difference in loss of power when riding though. just my 2 cents

On Monday, April 29, 2019 at 3:33:45 PM UTC-7, Collin A wrote:
>
> Given some discussion in another thread about dynamo lighting use on 
> unpaved surfaces, I figured it would be worth bringing this up as a 
> separate thread.
>
> Personally, I have a kasai Dynacoil hub (evolution of a SP hub, I believe) 
> laced to an Alex Dm24 rim and wired with a K-lite bikepacker light (gravel 
> version) https://www.kliteusa.net/product-page/klite. It so far has 
> survived a year of pretty intense trail use (no snow, but submerged quite a 
> few times) and shows no sign of additional drag or poor energy transfer. 
> However, given the huge load that a 1300 lumen light can pull from a little 
> 6v/3A generator, I do notice an increase in drag when the light is on when 
> on pavement (chatter on the trail takes that away, though).
>
> In the context of night-time usage off-road, it is great and does a way 
> better job than my previous Supernova E3 light. The key thing to note is 
> that the light generation, at night and up hills, is usually quite low, but 
> does enough to light up the trail. The slow speeds mean that I have more 
> time to react so the lower light output isn't too much of an issue. 
> However, If I am out in the boonies with little to no ambient light and 
> heading down hill with enough speed for full light output, the dynamo light 
> on it's own doesn't cut it as all of the twists and turns on a typical 
> trail means that you will often be looking into a dark corner before the 
> bike (and light) makes that turn. For these reasons, I'll have a 
> supplemental headlamp to light the trail before I point my bike into the 
> turns. I don't think any light mounted to a bike would be enough in these 
> situations, on its own.
>
> That being said, I am much happier with the Klite when I venture off road 
> and feel much more confident knowing that it really pumps out the lumens 
> (if I can pedal fast enough). Its overkill for commuting, and with the 
> amount of light pollution the bay area puts out, I rarely have to worry 
> about a completely dark night. 
>
> I haven't had the chance to mess around with the fancier sondelux hubs, so 
> maybe some folks can provide some comparissons or their own opinions on the 
> matter.
>
> Happy Monday,
> Collin A
>

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[RBW] FS: MKS Sylvan Touring pedals, 2 pair

2019-05-01 Thread saintruggler
Hello again, Joe! What does “new-ish” mean? Have they been installed, ridden, 
etc?

Eric

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[RBW] Re: Velocity NoBS vs. Atlas?

2019-05-01 Thread Coal Bee Rye Anne
Yes, exactly, if not for centerlock disc I probably wouldn't bother even 
thinking of it.  I've had to deal with drilling out stuck and stripped torx 
bolts on an old 26" 6 bolt front disc hub.  Ironically, this wheel was from 
an old 'comfort MTB' (marketed as a hybrid back when my wife first bought 
it) with both IS disc tab and v-brake posts on the fork and seemed like the 
same wheel was spec'd on each level of the same model and could be used as 
disc or rim brake.  I've since used the same wheel as a spare for rim 
brakes without issue but with the marred 6 bolt rotor mounts still there as 
a reminder and eyesore.

After viewing numerous center lock hubs recently I'd have no issue with 
seeing the unused center lock mount on a rim brake bike even if sticking to 
rim brakes indefinitely.

That still leaves a concern regarding the QR adapters with 12x100 TA hubs 
and whether there are any compatibility issues among them.

The available hubs I've been drawn to most are the SON and Shimano 
offerings.  I also just found a new Shimano release I still need to 
research a bit more:
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/deorext-t8000/DH-UR705-3D.html



On Tuesday, April 30, 2019 at 8:22:25 PM UTC-4, ascpgh wrote:

> I began my generator hub experience by considering moving my wheel to 
> other bikes, rationalizing my SON expense across several bikes. 
>
> I used the centerlock disc format to serve my disc braked commuter but 
> allow me to spin off the ring, pull the disc and run it on my other bike. I 
> used the same Velocity rim as my non-disc bike so its braking performance 
> wasn’t diminished. 
>
> Fast forward to now, I’m getting another SON and Light for a new project. 
> Gen hubs and wired lights are such a transforming addition to a bike you 
> really will use and enjoy. 
>
> Andy Cheatham 
> Pittsburgh 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hiluki vintage ??

2019-05-01 Thread Sean Steinle
One thing that doesn't seem to get discussed with rebadged Salukis/early 
Toyo Hilsens is the fork crown. Does that have any meaning, or did they 
vary based on stock they needed to get rid of? All of the Toyo Hilsen's I 
see pics of seem to have the swirly fork crown. But, the Salukis had the 
style like this: http://www.cyclofiend.com/Images/rbw/rr38_pg45.jpg

I'm actually taking delivery today of an old 58cm 650b Hilsen, which has 
the Saluki/Waterford Hilsen fork crown, but the owner said it's actually 
one of the earliest 650b Toyo Hilsens. I'll see what the BB stamp looks 
like when I get home tonight. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hiluki vintage ??

2019-05-01 Thread Bruce Herbitter
Appreciate the info Ted.  Yes on the Tokyo bikes.  I absolutely love my 
Rambouillet

Sent from my iPad

> On May 1, 2019, at 9:06 AM, ted  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Pondero, your bike looks like a twin to mine. So it seems ~2010 is a 
> decent estimate.
> 
> Fullylugged, your history is a bit off.
> The early AHH frames were built by Toyo. I think one way those frames can be 
> distinguished from the later Waterford built ones is the water bottle mounts 
> on the underside of the down tube. I believe there are other cosmetic details 
> too. At the time RBW moved production from Toyo to Waterford in response to a 
> surging yen, G wrote about the MUSA frames being just as good as the Toyos 
> but that there were minor differences and that if one wanted a Toyo the time 
> to get it was ...
> After the introduction of the AHH and before (or about when) production moved 
> to Waterford the Saluki was folded into the AHH model. In the smaller sizes 
> even sized AHH were 650b and odd sized ones were 700c. Large 650b frames were 
> discontinued (i think 58 was the largest pre MIT 650b AHH)
> In the transition some bikes were built using Saluki bottom brackets (using 
> up existing stock?) but badged and decaled as AHHs.
> So is a frame with a SA-### sn sold by RBW with an AHH head badge and AHH 
> decals a Saluki or an AHH? I duno, a rose by any other name ... or some such 
> thing.
> If there weren't many Salukis sold there must have been very very few of 
> these "HiLuki" bikes. Rarity aside mine has become very precious to me. It's 
> probably my favorite bike and if it were stolen or wrecked i don't think I 
> could replace it. Nothing against current RBW production, but those old Toyo 
> built bikes are sooo pretty.
> 
>> On Wednesday, May 1, 2019 at 2:56:34 AM UTC-7, Fullylugged wrote:
>> If it has an SA serial number then it is a Saluki and not a Hilsen. Saluki 
>> was only made in 650B and Hilsen came in 700. After the merger, smaller size 
>> Hilsens came in 650B and larger ones in 700. Saluki was made in Japan 
>> starting in 2004 and Hilsen was made in the US from 2006, then later in 
>> Taiwan as currency exchange rates became an issue. They were always 
>> functionally equivalent. Salukis were mostly side pulls but a small number 
>> were made for cantis. There weren't a lot of Salukis made, and I think they 
>> ended production (although some hung around in the RBW attic for a long 
>> while) around 2007.  Both models were for sale separately through 2007.  
>> $1,500 for FFHS combo.
>> At least I think that's about right.
>> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Chevoit or Clem jr L

2019-05-01 Thread Joe Bernard
"I'm riding it like I stole it."

Literally! 😂

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[RBW] Re: Hiluki vintage ??

2019-05-01 Thread ted
Thanks Pondero, your bike looks like a twin to mine. So it seems ~2010 is a 
decent estimate.

Fullylugged, your history is a bit off.
The early AHH frames were built by Toyo. I think one way those frames can 
be distinguished from the later Waterford built ones is the water bottle 
mounts on the underside of the down tube. I believe there are other 
cosmetic details too. At the time RBW moved production from Toyo to 
Waterford in response to a surging yen, G wrote about the MUSA frames being 
just as good as the Toyos but that there were minor differences and that if 
one wanted a Toyo the time to get it was ...
After the introduction of the AHH and before (or about when) production 
moved to Waterford the Saluki was folded into the AHH model. In the smaller 
sizes even sized AHH were 650b and odd sized ones were 700c. Large 650b 
frames were discontinued (i think 58 was the largest pre MIT 650b AHH)
In the transition some bikes were built using Saluki bottom brackets (using 
up existing stock?) but badged and decaled as AHHs.
So is a frame with a SA-### sn sold by RBW with an AHH head badge and AHH 
decals a Saluki or an AHH? I duno, a rose by any other name ... or some 
such thing.
If there weren't many Salukis sold there must have been very very few of 
these "HiLuki" bikes. Rarity aside mine has become very precious to me. 
It's probably my favorite bike and if it were stolen or wrecked i don't 
think I could replace it. Nothing against current RBW production, but those 
old Toyo built bikes are sooo pretty.

On Wednesday, May 1, 2019 at 2:56:34 AM UTC-7, Fullylugged wrote:
>
> If it has an SA serial number then it is a Saluki and not a Hilsen. Saluki 
> was only made in 650B and Hilsen came in 700. After the merger, smaller 
> size Hilsens came in 650B and larger ones in 700. Saluki was made in Japan 
> starting in 2004 and Hilsen was made in the US from 2006, then later in 
> Taiwan as currency exchange rates became an issue. They were always 
> functionally equivalent. Salukis were mostly side pulls but a small number 
> were made for cantis. There weren't a lot of Salukis made, and I think they 
> ended production (although some hung around in the RBW attic for a long 
> while) around 2007.  Both models were for sale separately through 2007. 
>  $1,500 for FFHS combo.
>
> At least I think that's about right.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Chevoit or Clem jr L

2019-05-01 Thread Leah Peterson
Yeah, guys, don’t try to keep up with my speed racer - I’m riding it like I 
stole it! 


Sent from my iPad

> On May 1, 2019, at 4:17 AM, 'Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch 
>  wrote:
> 
> I was comparing a 52 Clementine with a 55 Cheviut. I recall in the original 
> literature, the 59 Clementine was advertised as having a tad more "wiggle" 
> under load. But as I say, and you say, both bikes in any size are capable of 
> just about anything one would want a bike to do, other than try to beat M. 
> van der Poel (or BBDD's speed racer).
> 
>> On Tuesday, April 30, 2019 at 4:54:24 PM UTC-4, Adam Leibow wrote:
>> I have both (60cm Cheviot & 59cm Clem L) and disagree that the cheviot is 
>> faster/sportier. To me the cheviot rides stouter/stiffer and the clem L 
>> feels flexier and "planes" if you believe in that. I prefer the Cheviot for 
>> carrying a substantial load (clem L flexes too much) and the Clem L for 
>> lighter loads & faster rides. I use the Clem L on group rides to keep up 
>> with my local MTB & CX group ride friends. They're amazed that my "commuter" 
>> can keep up. 
>> 
>>> On Monday, April 29, 2019 at 10:10:07 AM UTC-7, Justin Schoop wrote:
>>> My wife has finally shown interest in a nice frame that's more comfortable 
>>> than her road bike and surly LHT. I recommended the Clem and Chevoit and 
>>> she really likes the idea of the step-thru frames. 
>>> 
>>> Hoping to get more insight into the two and what the major difference would 
>>> be. Thanks!
> 
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Re: [RBW] Velocity NoBS vs. Atlas?

2019-05-01 Thread Tom Wyland
John,
Is the new set of wheels you described 32 spoke? Or was that the old set?  
I have a pair of 32 spoke wheels (on Mavic Open Pro 700c narrower rims) and 
I could never keep them true.  Is it different with wider rims?

Tom

On Tuesday, April 30, 2019 at 2:03:19 PM UTC-4, John McBurney wrote:
>
> I went through the same decision process  when rebuilding my wheels before 
> doing the C&O/GAP ride last Oct. I was loaded out with bike, panniers and 
> rider at 290 Lbs. My wheels were 32 spoke on a belt drive IGH bike. 
>
> The trail was in pretty bad shape and in portions near Paw Paw WV there 
> was deep standing water that lead me to drop into some pretty deep holes. 
>
> The wheels came through unscathed. 
>
> I spec’d Sapim Strong spokes along with NoBS rims. 
>
> They are a nice width. 
>
> Recommended. 
>
> John  
>
>>
>>

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[RBW] FS: Gary Fisher Gemini Tandem & Salsa Caseroll Frameset

2019-05-01 Thread Conway Bennett
These are rivish and thought someone here would like them for a budget build 
for a friend or partner.

The Gary Fisher Gemini is a mediumish size from 1991 and has a full Suntour XC 
Comp drivetrain and XC Pro SE cantis.  I'm going to include some 26" Schwalbe 
Smart Sam tires in the deal.  $450 and local sale only for now.

The Salsa Caseroll frameset is 53 cm and is the final 2012 version with front 
rack.  It will come with a Cane Creek headset but no BB.  This was my wife's 
but I bought her one of Roman's Roscoe "Mixtes" and that's a Sunday driver at 
best.  $350 + shipping.
  

FW,

Captain Conway 
Chicago 

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[RBW] Re: FS: Mtn Mixte 54.5 Frame; Nitto Stem; Bosco Bullmoose Bars; Bosco Bars; Microshift 9 Spd Shifters

2019-05-01 Thread RDS
Frame is sold.

*Still for Sale:  Bosco Bullmoose - $110 shipped to USA*

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DlLz6eIBrsRQm7MIONIFo9CTxlHoFk9g
>
> Contact me off list if interested.  Paypal friends and family unless we 
> agree to other arrangements.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Chevoit or Clem jr L

2019-05-01 Thread 'Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch
I was comparing a 52 Clementine with a 55 Cheviut. I recall in the original 
literature, the 59 Clementine was advertised as having a tad more "wiggle" 
under load. But as I say, and you say, both bikes in any size are capable 
of just about anything one would want a bike to do, other than try to beat 
M. van der Poel (or BBDD's speed racer).

On Tuesday, April 30, 2019 at 4:54:24 PM UTC-4, Adam Leibow wrote:
>
> I have both (60cm Cheviot & 59cm Clem L) and disagree that the cheviot is 
> faster/sportier. To me the cheviot rides stouter/stiffer and the clem L 
> feels flexier and "planes" if you believe in that. I prefer the Cheviot for 
> carrying a substantial load (clem L flexes too much) and the Clem L for 
> lighter loads & faster rides. I use the Clem L on group rides to keep up 
> with my local MTB & CX group ride friends. They're amazed that my 
> "commuter" can keep up. 
>
> On Monday, April 29, 2019 at 10:10:07 AM UTC-7, Justin Schoop wrote:
>>
>> My wife has finally shown interest in a nice frame that's more 
>> comfortable than her road bike and surly LHT. I recommended the Clem and 
>> Chevoit and she really likes the idea of the step-thru frames. 
>>
>> Hoping to get more insight into the two and what the major difference 
>> would be. Thanks!
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem Basket and MUSA Splats for sale.

2019-05-01 Thread Steve Butcher
I'll drop my price for the package of both baskets, the insulated liner and 
MUSA Splats to $80.00 shipped in CONUS.  Steve.

On Tuesday, April 16, 2019 at 6:46:04 PM UTC-5, Steve Butcher wrote:
>
> Hi forum folks,
>
> I have a very little used like new condition Clem front basket for sale.  
> Also, I have a like new pair of MUSA Olive green Splats for sale.  I wear a 
> size 10 shoe and they fit me okay.  I'd like $45.00 for the basket and 
> $25.00 for the Splats both shipped in CONUS.  Please DM me with questions.  
>
> Steve Butcher
> Stockton, Missouri
>

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[RBW] PSA Sellwood Cycle PDX Rivendell

2019-05-01 Thread Fullylugged
Someone is going to get a great bike for a super price.

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[RBW] Hiluki vintage ??

2019-05-01 Thread Fullylugged
If it has an SA serial number then it is a Saluki and not a Hilsen. Saluki was 
only made in 650B and Hilsen came in 700. After the merger, smaller size 
Hilsens came in 650B and larger ones in 700. Saluki was made in Japan starting 
in 2004 and Hilsen was made in the US from 2006, then later in Taiwan as 
currency exchange rates became an issue. They were always functionally 
equivalent. Salukis were mostly side pulls but a small number were made for 
cantis. There weren't a lot of Salukis made, and I think they ended production 
(although some hung around in the RBW attic for a long while) around 2007.  
Both models were for sale separately through 2007.  $1,500 for FFHS combo.

At least I think that's about right.

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