date:20220829

Hi Everyone,

Does anyone have experience with Silver 1 shifters mounted INSIDE with the 
thumb pods on the Albatross?  

Yesterday, I think I fell out of love with cork grips on the Albatross.  
Over the years I've used the original channeled cork with Silver bar ends, 
then Misha's, then back to the originals that I channeled myself (which is 
a pain)

The cork stuff is just so hard! My palms are starting to get sore.  It 
might be time for a change.

I'm thinking about:
Silver Thumb Pods with the Silver 1s using the INSIDE mount method
ESI Extra Chunky or perhaps Oury Lock-Ons

I might also try the Wave bar, but I have several other bikes set up 
similarly so... maybe that's just silly or maybe that's just the setup that 
works for me?!

I've used Microshift thumbs and Suntour XCD mounted on the top of mtb 
bars.  I'm just wondering if my thumbs are strong enough for the Silvers on 
the Albatross mounted inside.  Can my thumbs really pull the lever "up" and 
still find a gear in friction mode? It seems difficult...

Thanks for any thoughts!

Ginz

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[RBW] Re: Albatross with Silver Thumbies

2022-08-29 Thread Lance Terry

Hey Ginz,
I've run albatross bars bars with the Silver 2s mounted inside and really 
like it. You end up shifting up with your thumbs and down partially with 
your finger around on the outside of the bar. Not sure if that explains it 
very well but I think you'd like it. In fact I'm currently running bar ends 
and as soon as I get some time I'm going to switch them back. I also run 
ESI super chunky's and really like the whole set up. 

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 8:53:33 AM UTC-6 Garth wrote:

> Like this Ginz ?  I've rode with like this for some 10 years. I can't 
> speak to those shifters, only the position. Mine are ye ol' Suntour Power 
> Shifters. 
>
>
>
> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 9:45:14 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>
>> Hi Everyone,
>>
>> Does anyone have experience with Silver 1 shifters mounted INSIDE with 
>> the thumb pods on the Albatross?  
>>
>> Yesterday, I think I fell out of love with cork grips on the Albatross.  
>> Over the years I've used the original channeled cork with Silver bar ends, 
>> then Misha's, then back to the originals that I channeled myself (which is 
>> a pain)
>>
>> The cork stuff is just so hard! My palms are starting to get sore.  It 
>> might be time for a change.
>>
>> I'm thinking about:
>> Silver Thumb Pods with the Silver 1s using the INSIDE mount method
>> ESI Extra Chunky or perhaps Oury Lock-Ons
>>
>> I might also try the Wave bar, but I have several other bikes set up 
>> similarly so... maybe that's just silly or maybe that's just the setup that 
>> works for me?!
>>
>> I've used Microshift thumbs and Suntour XCD mounted on the top of mtb 
>> bars.  I'm just wondering if my thumbs are strong enough for the Silvers on 
>> the Albatross mounted inside.  Can my thumbs really pull the lever "up" and 
>> still find a gear in friction mode? It seems difficult...
>>
>> Thanks for any thoughts!
>>
>> Ginz
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Albatross with Silver Thumbies

Hi Garth,

I'm thinking of thumbies down by the grip.

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:04:37 AM UTC-4 lwt...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hey Ginz,
> I've run albatross bars bars with the Silver 2s mounted inside and really 
> like it. You end up shifting up with your thumbs and down partially with 
> your finger around on the outside of the bar. Not sure if that explains it 
> very well but I think you'd like it. In fact I'm currently running bar ends 
> and as soon as I get some time I'm going to switch them back. I also run 
> ESI super chunky's and really like the whole set up. 
>
> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 8:53:33 AM UTC-6 Garth wrote:
>
>> Like this Ginz ?  I've rode with like this for some 10 years. I can't 
>> speak to those shifters, only the position. Mine are ye ol' Suntour Power 
>> Shifters. 
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 9:45:14 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Everyone,
>>>
>>> Does anyone have experience with Silver 1 shifters mounted INSIDE with 
>>> the thumb pods on the Albatross?  
>>>
>>> Yesterday, I think I fell out of love with cork grips on the Albatross.  
>>> Over the years I've used the original channeled cork with Silver bar ends, 
>>> then Misha's, then back to the originals that I channeled myself (which is 
>>> a pain)
>>>
>>> The cork stuff is just so hard! My palms are starting to get sore.  It 
>>> might be time for a change.
>>>
>>> I'm thinking about:
>>> Silver Thumb Pods with the Silver 1s using the INSIDE mount method
>>> ESI Extra Chunky or perhaps Oury Lock-Ons
>>>
>>> I might also try the Wave bar, but I have several other bikes set up 
>>> similarly so... maybe that's just silly or maybe that's just the setup that 
>>> works for me?!
>>>
>>> I've used Microshift thumbs and Suntour XCD mounted on the top of mtb 
>>> bars.  I'm just wondering if my thumbs are strong enough for the Silvers on 
>>> the Albatross mounted inside.  Can my thumbs really pull the lever "up" and 
>>> still find a gear in friction mode? It seems difficult...
>>>
>>> Thanks for any thoughts!
>>>
>>> Ginz
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Albatross with Silver Thumbies

Thanks, I guess I'll give it a try.  I LOVE the idea of the cork grips and 
the shape, but they are just not working for me anymore and I need to make 
a change. Need more squish.

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:04:37 AM UTC-4 lwt...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hey Ginz,
> I've run albatross bars bars with the Silver 2s mounted inside and really 
> like it. You end up shifting up with your thumbs and down partially with 
> your finger around on the outside of the bar. Not sure if that explains it 
> very well but I think you'd like it. In fact I'm currently running bar ends 
> and as soon as I get some time I'm going to switch them back. I also run 
> ESI super chunky's and really like the whole set up. 
>
> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 8:53:33 AM UTC-6 Garth wrote:
>
>> Like this Ginz ?  I've rode with like this for some 10 years. I can't 
>> speak to those shifters, only the position. Mine are ye ol' Suntour Power 
>> Shifters. 
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 9:45:14 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Everyone,
>>>
>>> Does anyone have experience with Silver 1 shifters mounted INSIDE with 
>>> the thumb pods on the Albatross?  
>>>
>>> Yesterday, I think I fell out of love with cork grips on the Albatross.  
>>> Over the years I've used the original channeled cork with Silver bar ends, 
>>> then Misha's, then back to the originals that I channeled myself (which is 
>>> a pain)
>>>
>>> The cork stuff is just so hard! My palms are starting to get sore.  It 
>>> might be time for a change.
>>>
>>> I'm thinking about:
>>> Silver Thumb Pods with the Silver 1s using the INSIDE mount method
>>> ESI Extra Chunky or perhaps Oury Lock-Ons
>>>
>>> I might also try the Wave bar, but I have several other bikes set up 
>>> similarly so... maybe that's just silly or maybe that's just the setup that 
>>> works for me?!
>>>
>>> I've used Microshift thumbs and Suntour XCD mounted on the top of mtb 
>>> bars.  I'm just wondering if my thumbs are strong enough for the Silvers on 
>>> the Albatross mounted inside.  Can my thumbs really pull the lever "up" and 
>>> still find a gear in friction mode? It seems difficult...
>>>
>>> Thanks for any thoughts!
>>>
>>> Ginz
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Albatross with Silver Thumbies

2022-08-29 Thread Lance Terry

I run mine ahead of the grips closer to the brake levers. You have to play 
with the positioning. I like the look of the cork grips but also got to 
where I needed some more cush. The super chunkys work really nicely. A bit 
of a pain to get on. 

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 9:21:05 AM UTC-6 Ginz wrote:

> Thanks, I guess I'll give it a try.  I LOVE the idea of the cork grips and 
> the shape, but they are just not working for me anymore and I need to make 
> a change. Need more squish.
>
> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:04:37 AM UTC-4 lwt...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hey Ginz,
>> I've run albatross bars bars with the Silver 2s mounted inside and really 
>> like it. You end up shifting up with your thumbs and down partially with 
>> your finger around on the outside of the bar. Not sure if that explains it 
>> very well but I think you'd like it. In fact I'm currently running bar ends 
>> and as soon as I get some time I'm going to switch them back. I also run 
>> ESI super chunky's and really like the whole set up. 
>>
>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 8:53:33 AM UTC-6 Garth wrote:
>>
>>> Like this Ginz ?  I've rode with like this for some 10 years. I can't 
>>> speak to those shifters, only the position. Mine are ye ol' Suntour Power 
>>> Shifters. 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 9:45:14 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>>>
 Hi Everyone,

 Does anyone have experience with Silver 1 shifters mounted INSIDE with 
 the thumb pods on the Albatross?  

 Yesterday, I think I fell out of love with cork grips on the 
 Albatross.  Over the years I've used the original channeled cork with 
 Silver bar ends, then Misha's, then back to the originals that I channeled 
 myself (which is a pain)

 The cork stuff is just so hard! My palms are starting to get sore.  It 
 might be time for a change.

 I'm thinking about:
 Silver Thumb Pods with the Silver 1s using the INSIDE mount method
 ESI Extra Chunky or perhaps Oury Lock-Ons

 I might also try the Wave bar, but I have several other bikes set up 
 similarly so... maybe that's just silly or maybe that's just the setup 
 that 
 works for me?!

 I've used Microshift thumbs and Suntour XCD mounted on the top of mtb 
 bars.  I'm just wondering if my thumbs are strong enough for the Silvers 
 on 
 the Albatross mounted inside.  Can my thumbs really pull the lever "up" 
 and 
 still find a gear in friction mode? It seems difficult...

 Thanks for any thoughts!

 Ginz

>>>

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[RBW] Re: Albatross with Silver Thumbies

I should also mention that I'm perfectly happy with the bar end shifters on 
the Albatross.  It's just that finding a grip that works with bar end 
shifters, other than channeled cork, is difficult.

I've seen the photos where ESI silicone or Oury has been stretched over the 
cable housing but eh... it seems a bit experimental.  

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:21:05 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:

> Thanks, I guess I'll give it a try.  I LOVE the idea of the cork grips and 
> the shape, but they are just not working for me anymore and I need to make 
> a change. Need more squish.
>
> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:04:37 AM UTC-4 lwt...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hey Ginz,
>> I've run albatross bars bars with the Silver 2s mounted inside and really 
>> like it. You end up shifting up with your thumbs and down partially with 
>> your finger around on the outside of the bar. Not sure if that explains it 
>> very well but I think you'd like it. In fact I'm currently running bar ends 
>> and as soon as I get some time I'm going to switch them back. I also run 
>> ESI super chunky's and really like the whole set up. 
>>
>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 8:53:33 AM UTC-6 Garth wrote:
>>
>>> Like this Ginz ?  I've rode with like this for some 10 years. I can't 
>>> speak to those shifters, only the position. Mine are ye ol' Suntour Power 
>>> Shifters. 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 9:45:14 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>>>
 Hi Everyone,

 Does anyone have experience with Silver 1 shifters mounted INSIDE with 
 the thumb pods on the Albatross?  

 Yesterday, I think I fell out of love with cork grips on the 
 Albatross.  Over the years I've used the original channeled cork with 
 Silver bar ends, then Misha's, then back to the originals that I channeled 
 myself (which is a pain)

 The cork stuff is just so hard! My palms are starting to get sore.  It 
 might be time for a change.

 I'm thinking about:
 Silver Thumb Pods with the Silver 1s using the INSIDE mount method
 ESI Extra Chunky or perhaps Oury Lock-Ons

 I might also try the Wave bar, but I have several other bikes set up 
 similarly so... maybe that's just silly or maybe that's just the setup 
 that 
 works for me?!

 I've used Microshift thumbs and Suntour XCD mounted on the top of mtb 
 bars.  I'm just wondering if my thumbs are strong enough for the Silvers 
 on 
 the Albatross mounted inside.  Can my thumbs really pull the lever "up" 
 and 
 still find a gear in friction mode? It seems difficult...

 Thanks for any thoughts!

 Ginz

>>>

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[RBW] Re: Albatross with Silver Thumbies

Dia Compe makes these, for end mount reversed brake levers, but can be used 
for shifters. I have even mounted grips over them for even more diameter 
and cushion.
[image: DC188-GRIP-BR-575x380.jpg]

Laing


On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:29:28 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:

> I should also mention that I'm perfectly happy with the bar end shifters 
> on the Albatross.  It's just that finding a grip that works with bar end 
> shifters, other than channeled cork, is difficult.
>
> I've seen the photos where ESI silicone or Oury has been stretched over 
> the cable housing but eh... it seems a bit experimental.  
>
> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:21:05 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>
>> Thanks, I guess I'll give it a try.  I LOVE the idea of the cork grips 
>> and the shape, but they are just not working for me anymore and I need to 
>> make a change. Need more squish.
>>
>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:04:37 AM UTC-4 lwt...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Hey Ginz,
>>> I've run albatross bars bars with the Silver 2s mounted inside and 
>>> really like it. You end up shifting up with your thumbs and down partially 
>>> with your finger around on the outside of the bar. Not sure if that 
>>> explains it very well but I think you'd like it. In fact I'm currently 
>>> running bar ends and as soon as I get some time I'm going to switch them 
>>> back. I also run ESI super chunky's and really like the whole set up. 
>>>
>>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 8:53:33 AM UTC-6 Garth wrote:
>>>
 Like this Ginz ?  I've rode with like this for some 10 years. I can't 
 speak to those shifters, only the position. Mine are ye ol' Suntour Power 
 Shifters. 



 On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 9:45:14 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:

> Hi Everyone,
>
> Does anyone have experience with Silver 1 shifters mounted INSIDE with 
> the thumb pods on the Albatross?  
>
> Yesterday, I think I fell out of love with cork grips on the 
> Albatross.  Over the years I've used the original channeled cork with 
> Silver bar ends, then Misha's, then back to the originals that I 
> channeled 
> myself (which is a pain)
>
> The cork stuff is just so hard! My palms are starting to get sore.  It 
> might be time for a change.
>
> I'm thinking about:
> Silver Thumb Pods with the Silver 1s using the INSIDE mount method
> ESI Extra Chunky or perhaps Oury Lock-Ons
>
> I might also try the Wave bar, but I have several other bikes set up 
> similarly so... maybe that's just silly or maybe that's just the setup 
> that 
> works for me?!
>
> I've used Microshift thumbs and Suntour XCD mounted on the top of mtb 
> bars.  I'm just wondering if my thumbs are strong enough for the Silvers 
> on 
> the Albatross mounted inside.  Can my thumbs really pull the lever "up" 
> and 
> still find a gear in friction mode? It seems difficult...
>
> Thanks for any thoughts!
>
> Ginz
>


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[RBW] Re: Differences between Sam Hillborne and A Homer Hilsen

First, the Bike on Bike drawing is super cool. Thanks for sharing. Second, 
has anyone spent time on an early model Homer AND a MIT 2018 or 2019 Homer? 
If so, I'd really like to know what you thought was different, particularly 
for long rides with maybe 10 pounds of food and supplies. I keep things 
light, which is why I always thought a Toyo Atlantis was a little too 
"stout" for longer road rides.

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 7:39:40 AM UTC-7 aeroperf wrote:

> Ah, size.  The Sam is a 55, the Homer was a 51.  I have a PBH of 83 and 
> weigh 195.  I usually rode with what you see in the picture - a rear bag 
> for Allen wrenches and spare tube.
> For me the Sam is about two Cm too tall, hence my stepping down a size 
> with the Homer, which was about two Cm too short.  I’m apparently at the 
> ends of the size ranges, not the middle.
> But I also wanted to try the “longer chainstays” and the 650b wheel set-up 
> and a number of other things.  In spite of the size, the bikes were almost 
> exactly the same wheelbase.
> Neither bike felt loose.  They were both good solid rides.  The biggest 
> difference in feel, other than what I credit to flex, was the Hollowtech II 
> front drive on the Homer - it seems noticeably stiffer to me than the 
> square taper on the Sam, in a good way.
>
> I sold on the Homer frame because it would have been the only bike in my 
> stable that was 650b, and I wasn’t overwhelmed with the ride compared to 
> the Sam.
> The other bike in my stable is now a Soma Saga Disk - back to 700c and a 
> little stiffer feel.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Albatross with Silver Thumbies

Laing,

Very interesting!  Maybe those Dia Compe's covered with some ESI silicone 
tape or similar.

Are they hard plastic? Soft?  

Thanks,
Ginz

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:36:04 AM UTC-4 lconley wrote:

> Dia Compe makes these, for end mount reversed brake levers, but can be 
> used for shifters. I have even mounted grips over them for even more 
> diameter and cushion.
> [image: DC188-GRIP-BR-575x380.jpg]
>
> Laing
>
>
> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:29:28 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>
>> I should also mention that I'm perfectly happy with the bar end shifters 
>> on the Albatross.  It's just that finding a grip that works with bar end 
>> shifters, other than channeled cork, is difficult.
>>
>> I've seen the photos where ESI silicone or Oury has been stretched over 
>> the cable housing but eh... it seems a bit experimental.  
>>
>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:21:05 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks, I guess I'll give it a try.  I LOVE the idea of the cork grips 
>>> and the shape, but they are just not working for me anymore and I need to 
>>> make a change. Need more squish.
>>>
>>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:04:37 AM UTC-4 lwt...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Hey Ginz,
 I've run albatross bars bars with the Silver 2s mounted inside and 
 really like it. You end up shifting up with your thumbs and down partially 
 with your finger around on the outside of the bar. Not sure if that 
 explains it very well but I think you'd like it. In fact I'm currently 
 running bar ends and as soon as I get some time I'm going to switch them 
 back. I also run ESI super chunky's and really like the whole set up. 

 On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 8:53:33 AM UTC-6 Garth wrote:

> Like this Ginz ?  I've rode with like this for some 10 years. I can't 
> speak to those shifters, only the position. Mine are ye ol' Suntour Power 
> Shifters. 
>
>
>
> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 9:45:14 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>
>> Hi Everyone,
>>
>> Does anyone have experience with Silver 1 shifters mounted INSIDE 
>> with the thumb pods on the Albatross?  
>>
>> Yesterday, I think I fell out of love with cork grips on the 
>> Albatross.  Over the years I've used the original channeled cork with 
>> Silver bar ends, then Misha's, then back to the originals that I 
>> channeled 
>> myself (which is a pain)
>>
>> The cork stuff is just so hard! My palms are starting to get sore.  
>> It might be time for a change.
>>
>> I'm thinking about:
>> Silver Thumb Pods with the Silver 1s using the INSIDE mount method
>> ESI Extra Chunky or perhaps Oury Lock-Ons
>>
>> I might also try the Wave bar, but I have several other bikes set up 
>> similarly so... maybe that's just silly or maybe that's just the setup 
>> that 
>> works for me?!
>>
>> I've used Microshift thumbs and Suntour XCD mounted on the top of mtb 
>> bars.  I'm just wondering if my thumbs are strong enough for the Silvers 
>> on 
>> the Albatross mounted inside.  Can my thumbs really pull the lever "up" 
>> and 
>> still find a gear in friction mode? It seems difficult...
>>
>> Thanks for any thoughts!
>>
>> Ginz
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Albatross with Silver Thumbies

Plastic, with a little give. Softer than cork anyway. I prefer them with 
some cushioning on top.

Laing

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 12:19:18 PM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:

> Laing,
>
> Very interesting!  Maybe those Dia Compe's covered with some ESI silicone 
> tape or similar.
>
> Are they hard plastic? Soft?  
>
> Thanks,
> Ginz
>
> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:36:04 AM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
>
>> Dia Compe makes these, for end mount reversed brake levers, but can be 
>> used for shifters. I have even mounted grips over them for even more 
>> diameter and cushion.
>> [image: DC188-GRIP-BR-575x380.jpg]
>>
>> Laing
>>
>>
>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:29:28 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>>
>>> I should also mention that I'm perfectly happy with the bar end shifters 
>>> on the Albatross.  It's just that finding a grip that works with bar end 
>>> shifters, other than channeled cork, is difficult.
>>>
>>> I've seen the photos where ESI silicone or Oury has been stretched over 
>>> the cable housing but eh... it seems a bit experimental.  
>>>
>>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:21:05 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>>>
 Thanks, I guess I'll give it a try.  I LOVE the idea of the cork grips 
 and the shape, but they are just not working for me anymore and I need to 
 make a change. Need more squish.

 On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:04:37 AM UTC-4 lwt...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hey Ginz,
> I've run albatross bars bars with the Silver 2s mounted inside and 
> really like it. You end up shifting up with your thumbs and down 
> partially 
> with your finger around on the outside of the bar. Not sure if that 
> explains it very well but I think you'd like it. In fact I'm currently 
> running bar ends and as soon as I get some time I'm going to switch them 
> back. I also run ESI super chunky's and really like the whole set up. 
>
> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 8:53:33 AM UTC-6 Garth wrote:
>
>> Like this Ginz ?  I've rode with like this for some 10 years. I can't 
>> speak to those shifters, only the position. Mine are ye ol' Suntour 
>> Power 
>> Shifters. 
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 9:45:14 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Everyone,
>>>
>>> Does anyone have experience with Silver 1 shifters mounted INSIDE 
>>> with the thumb pods on the Albatross?  
>>>
>>> Yesterday, I think I fell out of love with cork grips on the 
>>> Albatross.  Over the years I've used the original channeled cork with 
>>> Silver bar ends, then Misha's, then back to the originals that I 
>>> channeled 
>>> myself (which is a pain)
>>>
>>> The cork stuff is just so hard! My palms are starting to get sore.  
>>> It might be time for a change.
>>>
>>> I'm thinking about:
>>> Silver Thumb Pods with the Silver 1s using the INSIDE mount method
>>> ESI Extra Chunky or perhaps Oury Lock-Ons
>>>
>>> I might also try the Wave bar, but I have several other bikes set up 
>>> similarly so... maybe that's just silly or maybe that's just the setup 
>>> that 
>>> works for me?!
>>>
>>> I've used Microshift thumbs and Suntour XCD mounted on the top of 
>>> mtb bars.  I'm just wondering if my thumbs are strong enough for the 
>>> Silvers on the Albatross mounted inside.  Can my thumbs really pull the 
>>> lever "up" and still find a gear in friction mode? It seems difficult...
>>>
>>> Thanks for any thoughts!
>>>
>>> Ginz
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Differences between Sam Hillborne and A Homer Hilsen

I ride a 61 cm or 58 cm Toyo Atlantis, a 59 or 61 cm Romulus, a 58 cm Soma 
road bike. I think I would be a 58 cm Homer or 55 cm Sam. Not really sure.

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 9:18:45 AM UTC-7 aeroperf wrote:

> You might want to specify the size you may be looking for.  The Homer has 
> gone through some pretty big changes. See below.
> Bike Insights is your friend.  Compare candidates to a bike you have 
> ridden that you know fits you.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Differences between Sam Hillborne and A Homer Hilsen

2022-08-29 Thread RichS

Hello Dave:

You note that you like to 'keep things light". Then go with the Homer. I 
currently own a 2015 Hillborne and have owned a 2019 MIT Homer; both 51cm., 
650b 38mm. tires. Both bikes had identical setups and the Homer was 
certainly lighter — not by a lot but clearly discernible and consequently 
felt a little more lively to me. As others have indicated both handle 
similarly and offer a comfortable ride for distances of 100 miles or more 
in a day.

In sum, you won't go wrong with either bike.

Best,
Rich in ATL

On Sunday, August 28, 2022 at 7:48:19 PM UTC-4 Dave C wrote:

> Has anyone has extensive experience riding both models, particularly the 
> ones made in the 2015-2018 time period, and had an opportunity to see how 
> they rode differently and handled different terrain? I am very interested 
> in these models but they have changed in some ways over the years and I am 
> trying to get a sense of what made them different besides just brake style 
> and sometimes wheel size.. I have searched the past threads but there is 
> not much direct comparison/contrast information. Thanks, Dave in Carlsbad

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[RBW] Re: Differences between Sam Hillborne and A Homer Hilsen

Rich, why did you sell the Homer and keep the Sam? Were you hauling more 
gear? Thanks 

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 9:48:47 AM UTC-7 RichS wrote:

> Hello Dave:
>
> You note that you like to 'keep things light". Then go with the Homer. I 
> currently own a 2015 Hillborne and have owned a 2019 MIT Homer; both 51cm., 
> 650b 38mm. tires. Both bikes had identical setups and the Homer was 
> certainly lighter — not by a lot but clearly discernible and consequently 
> felt a little more lively to me. As others have indicated both handle 
> similarly and offer a comfortable ride for distances of 100 miles or more 
> in a day.
>
> In sum, you won't go wrong with either bike.
>
> Best,
> Rich in ATL
>
> On Sunday, August 28, 2022 at 7:48:19 PM UTC-4 Dave C wrote:
>
>> Has anyone has extensive experience riding both models, particularly the 
>> ones made in the 2015-2018 time period, and had an opportunity to see how 
>> they rode differently and handled different terrain? I am very interested 
>> in these models but they have changed in some ways over the years and I am 
>> trying to get a sense of what made them different besides just brake style 
>> and sometimes wheel size.. I have searched the past threads but there is 
>> not much direct comparison/contrast information. Thanks, Dave in Carlsbad
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Best all-around useful saddlebag?

2022-08-29 Thread RichS

Mike,

Do look into the Acorn bags. I currently own three (two handlebar and a 
rando medium) and they are very well made. They sell out fast so I would 
expect this run of bags will be gone in a day or two. 

Best,
Rich in ATL

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 2:31:19 AM UTC-4 Hetchins52 wrote:

> Got this today in email from Acorn bags:
>
> *Hi everyone,*
>
> *Our BLACK WAXED CANVAS 
> 
>  bags 
> will be restocked—in limited quantities—this Wednesday, August 31, at 
> approx. 9am Pacific Time.  (Please note that our upcoming Trunk Bag is not 
> included in this batch.) *
> *https://www.acornbags.com *
>
> I have a few of the medium Acorn saddle bags and like them a lot for their 
> size, waxed canvas material and construction. The larger, transverse 
> version looks good but I have no experience with it. 
> The old Swift, small Zeitgeist is a big improvement over the Carradice 
> Barley I have and my small BxB "Nino" is beautifully designed and made.
> I have the Outer Shell Basket Bag but I don't use a basket. It mounts 
> nicely on a front rack, especially one of the wider ones and has a lot of 
> structure. It is really well thought out with a lot of features. 
> I usually leave the side stiffeners in the bag but not in their 
> compartments. It allows the bag to be more compact and carried more easily 
> if not full.
>
> David Lipsky  - -  Berkeley, CA
>
> On Sunday, August 28, 2022 at 11:57:49 AM UTC-7 velomann wrote:
>
>> My name is Mike and I have a bike luggage problem...
>>
>> I own many of the bags already mentioned and a couple not discussed yet 
>> so here's my 2-cents:
>>
>> I currently have 3 Swift Zeitgeist bags - a first generation in custom 
>> colors and a couple newer ones, and for a good, durable, fairly lightweight 
>> saddlebag they are fantastic. My only (very minor) complaint is that the 
>> newer ones take longer to get in and out of - there's the outer 2 buckles, 
>> an inner buckled cinch strap, and the cord-lock bag cinch. The older models 
>> didn't have the single inner cinch strap, which is otherwise an improvement 
>> as it pulls the bottom of the bag up some, depending on how loaded it is. I 
>> do wish they still shipped with the leather buckle straps instead of the 
>> Voile straps everyone (except Carradice and Acorn) seems to be going to 
>> these days, but I may be in the minority with that opinion. I also own a 
>> Swift Catalyst, and if you want a bag smaller than the Zeitgeist and can do 
>> without the side pockets, it's basically a smaller Zeitgeist (Swift used to 
>> make the Zeitgeist in 2 sizes). One advantage to the Catalyst - Swift's 
>> intention I think - is that the Catalyst mounts well to even fairly narrow 
>> handlebars too. Someone mentioned MUSA as a plus on Swift bags, but last 
>> year they switched production overseas to standard bags in standard colors, 
>> which I assume means the Zeitgeist is now sewn in Asia.
>>
>> I also own 2 Carradice bags, a Camper Longflap and Nelson Longflap. The 
>> Camper was my first touring saddlebag and has thousands of miles in 
>> year-round PNW  commuting and other than fading is still in great shape. 
>> The waxed canvas is heavier than the Swift bags, but that's never been an 
>> issue for me, and the longflap is incredibly useful when overfilling the 
>> bag or strapping a sleeping pad or tent or fly rod to the bag.
>>
>> I own a large Fabios Chest - from when they were still made by Swift - 
>> and it's like a super-sized version of the Zeitgeist with a rolltop instead 
>> of cordlock cinch AND a longflap. If one was looking for a true 
>> load-everything-including-the-kitchen-sink bag this would be the one. FYI I 
>> run it on the front (Jones Bars) of my Bantam AdventureBike, and with a 
>> Carradice Longflap on the rear and a couple fork-mounted King Manything 
>> cages I can carry all my bikepacking gear without an inner triangle frame 
>> bag (I hate frame bags).
>>
>> Another bag I REALLY like is the locally made (Portland area) Jack Supply 
>> Slugger bag. https://www.jacksupplyco.com/ Similar to the Swift 
>> Zeitgeist but with a rolltop closure, extendable flap, and more exterior 
>> lash points. I've also run this as a handlebar bag, though I prefer the 
>> Little Slugger for that use. And these definitely are MUSA.
>>
>> Finally, the OP mentioned running a Wald basket and looking for a 
>> saddlebag as well. I use a Swift Sugarloaf in one Wald basket, and an 
>> Outershell Basket-bag https://outershell.com/shop/137-basket-bag in the 
>> other. The thing I like about the Basket-bag is that it's basically a rando 
>> bag for your basket, with a lid that opens out so you can access the 
>> interior while riding, and a clear map pocket. Also MUSA (California) and 
>> really thoughtfully designed and well-made.
>>
>> Final note - I'm smallish and ride smallish frames, and for ALL t

[RBW] Re: Albatross with Silver Thumbies

2022-08-29 Thread John Johnson

Hi Ginz,

The nice thing is that if you're using the silver shifters (which are 
friction shifters), if you want to go back to the non-inside mount method, 
all you have to do is switch them!

cheers,

john
On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 5:04:37 PM UTC+2 lwt...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hey Ginz,
> I've run albatross bars bars with the Silver 2s mounted inside and really 
> like it. You end up shifting up with your thumbs and down partially with 
> your finger around on the outside of the bar. Not sure if that explains it 
> very well but I think you'd like it. In fact I'm currently running bar ends 
> and as soon as I get some time I'm going to switch them back. I also run 
> ESI super chunky's and really like the whole set up. 
>
> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 8:53:33 AM UTC-6 Garth wrote:
>
>> Like this Ginz ?  I've rode with like this for some 10 years. I can't 
>> speak to those shifters, only the position. Mine are ye ol' Suntour Power 
>> Shifters. 
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 9:45:14 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Everyone,
>>>
>>> Does anyone have experience with Silver 1 shifters mounted INSIDE with 
>>> the thumb pods on the Albatross?  
>>>
>>> Yesterday, I think I fell out of love with cork grips on the Albatross.  
>>> Over the years I've used the original channeled cork with Silver bar ends, 
>>> then Misha's, then back to the originals that I channeled myself (which is 
>>> a pain)
>>>
>>> The cork stuff is just so hard! My palms are starting to get sore.  It 
>>> might be time for a change.
>>>
>>> I'm thinking about:
>>> Silver Thumb Pods with the Silver 1s using the INSIDE mount method
>>> ESI Extra Chunky or perhaps Oury Lock-Ons
>>>
>>> I might also try the Wave bar, but I have several other bikes set up 
>>> similarly so... maybe that's just silly or maybe that's just the setup that 
>>> works for me?!
>>>
>>> I've used Microshift thumbs and Suntour XCD mounted on the top of mtb 
>>> bars.  I'm just wondering if my thumbs are strong enough for the Silvers on 
>>> the Albatross mounted inside.  Can my thumbs really pull the lever "up" and 
>>> still find a gear in friction mode? It seems difficult...
>>>
>>> Thanks for any thoughts!
>>>
>>> Ginz
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Flyer vs. B67

Just joined after purchasing my first Country bike; a beaut of a lime olive 
platypus. Goal is to get more upright and it was outfitted with albatross 
bars which are about perfect. However, I put my Brooks professional from 
the 70s on and it doesn’t quite match the more upright position. I’m 
thinking Flyer vs b67. Any recommendations from this esteemed group and, 
how does one avoid annoying squeaks with those spring saddles. My riding is 
essentially road and hard packed dry trails in so. Cal. Thanks!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Going around in circles with shifters.

2022-08-29 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch

Maybe shifter itself or cable interfacing with shifter is jacked?Both front and 
rear?Plenty of bikes out there running smooth with cables running along bar 
bends.That's frustrating. Hope you find source.You've started process of 
elimination. I'd continue that path...Good luck!Scott

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Aug 27, 2022 at 2:46 PM, Ben Adrian wrote:   
Scene report!
To the Riv out for an urban cruise today. Shifting was still terrible. I did 
some tests while riding where I just leaned over and pulled on the shifting 
cables between the stops and the bottom bracket. The shifting was really 
smooth. So it must be the cable going through the handlebar bends while under 
load/tension. Around the circle I continue to go...
On Friday, August 26, 2022 at 6:38:13 AM UTC-7 Bill Schairer wrote:

Having ridden for years with a front handlebar bag, I guess I'm just used to 
pushing the cables from the bar end shifters one way or the other to mount or 
unmount the bag.  That said, I now run my Atlantis with a DT front shifter and 
bar end rear shifter for two reasons unrelated to cable/bag interference - for 
some reason, my left hand is less tolerant of the shifting motion required for 
the bar end shifter than my right and, on past tours, my front derailleur has 
at times become balky in dirty conditions which I attribute partially to the 
derailleur spring having trouble overcoming the additional friction caused by 
dirty cable housing.  I find the front shift much more reliable and quick with 
less effort with the DT shifter.  On a two month tour just completed, I had 
zero troubles with front shifts despite lots of gravel and rain whereas one 
week tours on gravel of past with bar end required daily lubrication and 
exercise of the front derailleur and still things could get balky.  For 
whatever it is worth, a couple of the guys I toured with used brifters and 
suffered from similar issues.  The downside was the double shift to or from the 
granny was not nearly as smooth as with two bar ends but at least they always 
did happen.  I just don't worry much where I've got to push the cables from the 
bar ends. I have another bike with two bar ends and a bag which works just fine 
for me on day rides.
Bill S San Diego

On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 2:44:26 PM UTC-7 bunny...@gmail.com wrote:

I love all the replies and knowledge here. It's pretty fun.
I did a little test. I put my RD in the biggest cog. I then shifted all the way 
down to the smallest cog without pedaling to put slack in the cable. Then I 
pulled the cable tight at the downtube. Then I shifted back up to the biggest 
cassette without any derailleur spring tension in the way. It actually felt 
pretty smooth. I never did this test BEFORE this routing, so I have no control, 
though.
I will say that just a couple days before I ran new cable that I put a 
derailleur hangar extender on the rear so I could go up to a 32t rear cog with 
my Ultegra 6500 derailleur. It works fine, but I wonder if some of the shifting 
resistance is more about making larger cog jumps and running my derailleur out 
of spec, and not entirely cable friction. Also, I've been running the bike in 
indexed mode.

So, step 1 is to go to friction mode and hang out on the smaller side of the 
cassette; see if it feels any easier. If so I'll have to figure out where to 
go. If not...Step 2, try the long floppy cable thing.Step 3. consider Tiagra 
4703 and a 4700/5800/6800 long rear derailleur. I have a 2x10 4700 setup on a 
budget carbon road bike and it was actually pretty good. It looks like they 
have a 3x10 lever setup. I know that RD can handle a 34, shifts smoothly, and 
is easy to set-up. Plus a 10s cassette will still fit my older wheels.

Or I just go back to a high end, ratchet, downtube shifter and learn to love it 
;) Keep this circle going!
By no means should this kill the conversation, though. Chat away!
Cheers!Ben

On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 12:15:35 PM UTC-7 Jeffrey Arita wrote:

Ben: I will add my 2 cents: we are big bar-end fans - they are on the bikes 
that have drop handlebars.  We only go friction - not indexed, so YMMV.  We use 
front racks and Wald baskets, and yes, depending upon your specific setup, the 
pair of long "U" cable and cable housing can get in the way.  Try routing the 
big U's under the Mark's rack and then zip-tie them to the rack so they are 
somewhat stationary.  Finally zip tie both U's together so they act like a 
single unit.  Yeah, it looks clunky but it might help keep those big U's under 
control.
Good luck,
JeffClaremont, CA

On Wednesday, August 24, 2022 at 6:48:00 PM UTC-7 bunny...@gmail.com wrote:

Hey all! Just looking for some gear chat.
I have a Rambouillet with drop bars. I'm finally getting everything 
comfortable, but I've been around the block with my shifters.
My bike came with 8 speed bar end shifters. However, when I did my first 
configuration I mounted them on the downtube. They worked great. It w

[RBW] Stiffer sidewalls, lower pressure, supple tires, higher pressure; Grant's blog

2022-08-29 Thread Patrick Moore

Amen to this; I discovered this with consternation some 10 years ago after
I swapped my stiff-walled Big Apples for supple-walled Furious Freds hoping
to pump the FFs to the same ~17 psi as the BAs and get wonderful supple
rolling and cushion. But I had to pump the FF 5 psi harder than the BAs to
keep from wallowing and bottoming out -- which made the FFs feel just like
the BAs on dirt. Of course, about a 1 cm width difference.

By "RTF" Grant means "roll flat technology" -- ie, stiff sidewalls.

*There is a trend to tires with thin, supple sidewalls. But more supple
means less RFT. When things are good, it's fine, but if you're going on a
multi-week ride in rocky terrain and no bike shops, there's a good reason
to ride stiffer sidewalls. *

*With more RFT you need lower air pressure in stiffer tires to get the same
cush for the same weight on it. Physicists may be able to prove on paper
that that's a crappier way to achieve a cush factor of X, but to my bad
brain, 45psi in a supple tire of a given volume or 30psi in a stiffer tire
are going to feel the same. And the stiffer tire gets its stiffness from a
sidewall that's not just stiffer, but thicker and tougher, too.*

*This is not an attack on supple, it's just another way to look at cush. On
some rides, maybe you'll want to pump up harder and go with a stiffer tire
because it's lighter and has detectably more zip? And on other rides, like
daily commutes, trails, and tours, you might want a tire with more RFT. I
wouldn't put supple tires on a workhorse. *
FWIW, here's a ceteris paribus stiffwall/supplewall comparo:

Big Apples, combo sandy dirt, choppy washboard and horse hoof damage, and
pavement: 17-18. Comparable pressure for the ultra supple and light (make
RH extralights seem heavy) Big Ones: 19-21.

And interesting background on the high-value retro-market MB-N mountain
bikes. Grant explains how he's moved on. Makes sense.

And there's a new Rivendell pump with wide wood handle at only $45 coming
in October. I expect that will be my first floor pump purchase in a decade
or more.

Patrick " but no interest in high-normal rear derailleurs" Moore

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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Re: [RBW] Re: Your Road or Road-ish Riv Rubber Radius (tire width)

2022-08-29 Thread Patrick Moore

I agree with your choice for pavement riding -- I don't need anything
fatter than 32 mm (in fact, if the 32mm-labeled Elk Pass was a true 32 mm
on my admittedly narrow rims, I'd rise from 26" tire Paradise to 26" tire
Nirvana (both Buddhist), but even at 28 mm on 19 mm OW rims, they're
heavenly (generic metaphorical sense) except on our 5" wide pavement
expansion cracks.

But: You say that you "know that the bigger tires are not as fast." *How do
you know? *

My own experience is that the tire width to speed relationship is all over
the place for tires of similar construction (and cost), what with all the
variables in speed involved (and also by the fast that I haven't measured
anything except seat-of-pants ease of given cadence in given gear in given
conditions). To wit: 622 X 60MM Big One ultralights feel as fast as the Elk
Passes and both feel faster than extra light 42 mm Naches Passes. But
again, variables, variables.

On Fri, Aug 26, 2022 at 10:19 AM Will Boericke  wrote:

> On pavement, I see no need for anything beyond 32.  I'm light, I like to
> go fast on pavement, and despite what JH says, I know that the bigger tires
> are not as fast.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell and Planing - proof?

2022-08-29 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch

Unless an 800lb gorilla was previous owner, that's concerning, for sure. If
it's a result of tube bending, I would think evidence may exist elsewhere; as
tube bending likely would also occur at junction of DT/BB shell, DT, and/or
junction of DT/HT.I'm curious as to source of paint being ground off, too. Some
relation to cracks?!
Do tell:)
Scott

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

On Fri, Aug 26, 2022 at 9:34 AM, Brian Turner wrote:
Wow. That is interesting. Maybe a bit concerning?? So, did you grind the paint
off in those sections just to see the extent of it, or are you planning to try
to repair the paint job?

On Friday, August 26, 2022 at 5:38:03 AM UTC-4 iamkeith wrote:

That's what you get for catching big air too many times! Perhaps the real flaw
of step-through designs is that the generous standover height (read:
low-consequence crotch clearance) encouages aggressive rididing or attempting
of tricks. In seriousness, it's oo bad you don't/can't know the real history
because anything else we offer would be speculation. Still... knowing myself,
that WAS something I intuitively worried about when i opted for the high-bar
(clem) version. I didn't/don't have the same concern with the gus/susie
hillibikes.

On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 6:54:08 PM UTC-6 Mike Godwin wrote:

Dramatic for sure!
Mike SLO CA
On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 3:15:37 PM UTC-7 Mackenzy Albright wrote:

I recently acquired this orange Clementine. We all know early generations paint
are negotiable. However, I find the crack patterns quite interesting.
Obviously, given the cracking location and direction leads me to believe that
this puppy planes! Move over kasai tubing.
*note. hint of satire here. but also am curious about the flex quality of step
through frames. I've found them to feel as spritely as anything.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Your Road or Road-ish Riv Rubber Radius (tire width)

2022-08-29 Thread Chris Dedinsky

I'm glad to hear it Alexander. I'm pretty set on getting a 36mm pair for my 
Heron touring bike, which is kinda the max clearance I think to get in 
there and keep my fenders. Did your 27s and or 40s measure fairly true to 
size? The other tires I've been leaning towards are the 38mm SOMA Shikoro's 
and or Supple Vitesse. I guess all this to say, 700x~35 feels good for a 
road and road-ish rubber radius.

On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 8:46:58 AM UTC-7 alexander...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Chris, I rode on 27mm Strada Biancas on an old Nishiki for a while and 
> loved them. Would have gone bigger but didn't have the clearance. Now I 
> have some 40mm Challenge Getaways on my CX bike. They probably the fastest 
> feeling tires I've ever ridden. If I end up getting the Quickbeam I am 
> hoping to buy soon, I plan to put some Strada Biancas in 36 or 40mm on it
> On Wednesday, August 24, 2022 at 11:19:17 PM UTC-5 chris@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi Chris -- the Roadeo from the last Riv blast is headed my way very 
>> soon! I'll let y'all know how they ride. 
>>
>> On Wednesday, August 24, 2022 at 5:50:29 PM UTC-7 h...@chrisdedinsky.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Has anyone tried out the 36 Challenge Strada Bianca's as featured on the 
>>> Roadeo in the last e-blast—and if so, thoughts? 
>>>
>>> On Friday, August 19, 2022 at 2:27:26 PM UTC-7 Adam wrote:
>>>
 I accidentally ended up trying Hurricane Ridge front with Snoqualmie 
 Pass rear--as a way to salvage the two front tires from worn pairs.

 I really like the setup. I find the handling on-road closer to what I 
 had with the 38 slicks, but there's more grip and float, esp in wet stuff.

 I'm not sure how the combo will be on wet pavement or road only rides, 
 but I like it for what I've done so far 

 Adam

 On Friday, August 19, 2022 at 12:32:45 PM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Hi Scott — I don't have any relevant experience to share from riding 
> off road. I love the idea of knobs and slicks together on one Sam. 
> Certainly there's a good bit of writing out there somewhere explaining 
> the 
> nuances. 
>
> On Friday, August 19, 2022 at 11:12:48 AM UTC-4 greenteadrinkers wrote:
>
>> Hi Andrew - thanks for the insight! 
>> There was a review someplace about the benefit of mixing a smooth 
>> with a knobby, just can't remember exactly what the benefit was!
>> Scott - Amherst MA
>> On Friday, August 19, 2022 at 10:57:33 AM UTC-4 Andrew Turner wrote:
>>
>>> Scott, I've swapped between both Hatcher Pass and Oracle Ridge tires 
>>> on my Monstercross and can confidently say both do surprisingly well 
>>> off-road. Where I live, when things get really rough, they're often 
>>> really 
>>> wet as well so the Oracle Ridge tires had slightly more grip in those 
>>> slippery conditions but truly slightly. Having both on the same bike 
>>> honestly seems like the way to go since I couldn't ever make up my mind 
>>> of 
>>> which tire I preferred.  
>>>
>>> Andrew 
>>> TN
>>>
>>> On Fri, Aug 19, 2022 at 9:07 AM greenteadrinkers <
>>> greentea...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
 Hi Eric, currently I have 700c 48mm Oracle Ridge standard casing 
 tires (tubeless) usually around 24 psi on my 54cm Sam. My local roads 
 are a 
 mix of smooth to broken pavement, gravel, double track, and some 
 single 
 track. I've found the 48's are smooth, quiet, and confident. Aside 
 from 
 road, can you speak to the 44mm Snoqualmie Pass tires on mixed 
 surfaces? 
 I'm considering swapping out the rear Oracle Ridge with a slick 
 Hatcher 
 Pass 48mm, I like the idea that you can mix and match.

 Thx!
 Scott - Amherst MA

 On Friday, August 19, 2022 at 12:53:16 AM UTC-4 brendonoid wrote:

> I love the Rene Herse options but if the conditions aren't 
> perfect, Panaracer Paselas are just so good on damp/wet roads for 
> confidence braking and cornering. 
> I run the biggest (38s) on my two mainly road bikes, the Homer and 
> the Holdsworth. If they made a 42-44 in the Pasela I probably 
> wouldn't go 
> back to the much more expensive Jan Heine creations.
>
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[RBW] Re: Going around in circles with shifters.

2022-08-29 Thread shopmonkey 39

Here's some ideas based on personal experience as I have barends on a 
handful of bikes.  First idea since you are already there, would be to turn 
your indexing off on your shifters.  I have this on a bike and it works 
great in friction mode.

Second idea.  If you are open to other models of drop bar, you can look for 
something with more run out.  I switched to Soma Highway Ones and the extra 
run out has allowed me to run cables that apex just before the basket.

Third.  Run your cables long enough so they sit on top of the basket and 
when your bag is full it just pushes the bag up.  My cables are just shy of 
the zipper on my Sackville and as it fills the cables are pushed up by the 
load.

Fourth.  One bar end and one down tube.  This is my commuter set up.  The 
front shift is on the down tube (non drive side) and I still shift it with 
my right hand thru the triangle.  My bar end cable sits on top of my bag 
again in this one but not by much.

Fifth.  Gevenalle shifters.  I love these and they work great for basket 
bikes and even sometimes saddlebag on the front bikes.  I would choose it 
over STI everytime.

Alot of this is based on the size of your bike, stem, bars, etc.  Also keep 
in mind that STI depending on the size of your bike and bars can sometimes 
hit your basket or bag.  I ran 44cm bars and occasionally if my bag was 
stuffed it would be a struggle to shift.  

On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 9:53:29 AM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:

> I should add my bias here: I love bar-ends on drops, the drop-down from 
> the hoods to push/pull a shifter is all that and a bag of chips. But if 
> you're into brifters and want to spend the cash, go for it! 
>
> On Wednesday, August 24, 2022 at 10:43:21 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> Did you do the super-long cables thing? You should be able to have them 
>> come straight forward from the bottom run of the bars, then loop back under 
>> the basket. Picture two cables looping out pretty far forward; I've tried 
>> the "keep em short and out of the way" version and it doesn't work, I liked 
>> them long and floppy where they would gently flop away from any load 
>> pressing on them*
>>
>> *I have no idea if this makes sense. 
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, August 24, 2022 at 6:48:00 PM UTC-7 bunny...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hey all! Just looking for some gear chat.
>>>
>>> I have a Rambouillet with drop bars. I'm finally getting everything 
>>> comfortable, but I've been around the block with my shifters.
>>>
>>> My bike came with 8 speed bar end shifters. However, when I did my first 
>>> configuration I mounted them on the downtube. They worked great. It was 
>>> kind of a bummer to reach down, but I went with it because I loved the 
>>> simplicity and getting the cables off the handlebars. 
>>>
>>> After a while I decided to put them back in the bar ends. I had 
>>> previously used bar ends for a long time, so it felt like home. However, I 
>>> have a front Mark's rack with a basket and the derailleur cables were 
>>> always getting in the way of the front stuff.
>>>
>>> So I just ran the cables fully under the bar tape and that install works 
>>> great to get stuff out of the way, but now my shifting performance is 
>>> pretty bad from the twisty cable runs; much worse than any other 
>>> configurations.
>>>
>>> So, nothing is really broken, but I know it can be better. Wondering if 
>>> I should try again with a new take on the "not under tape" routing. Or try 
>>> downtube again? Or just go nuts and look for a used STI system?
>>>
>>> Let's chat!
>>> Ben
>>>
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Seeking rim input

2022-08-29 Thread 'Sean, PNW' via RBW Owners Bunch

Pacenti Brevets would be my choice.

On Wednesday, August 24, 2022 at 5:51:15 PM UTC-7 plumber...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Hello everyone hope you've all enjoyed a casual ride this weekend!
>
> I'm looking for some input on rims. I recently purchased a Bombadil from a 
> member on here and am planning on having new wheels built up. After 
> enduring a painful wait I have received my rear hub from White Industries 
> front will have a generator. Thankfully they were ahead of the initial 
> estimated wait time. I have a set of 48mm RH knobbies that I plan on 
> running once the wheels are build but might switch it up.  
>
> What 650B rims are you running these days? 
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Vern
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Your Road or Road-ish Riv Rubber Radius (tire width)

2022-08-29 Thread Chris Dedinsky

That's very exciting—it is a gorgeous build! Yes, please let me know your
impressions.

On Wed, Aug 24, 2022 at 9:19 PM Chris Buzzini 
wrote:

> Hi Chris -- the Roadeo from the last Riv blast is headed my way very soon!
> I'll let y'all know how they ride.
>
> On Wednesday, August 24, 2022 at 5:50:29 PM UTC-7 h...@chrisdedinsky.com
> wrote:
>
>> Has anyone tried out the 36 Challenge Strada Bianca's as featured on the
>> Roadeo in the last e-blast—and if so, thoughts?
>>
>> On Friday, August 19, 2022 at 2:27:26 PM UTC-7 Adam wrote:
>>
>>> I accidentally ended up trying Hurricane Ridge front with Snoqualmie
>>> Pass rear--as a way to salvage the two front tires from worn pairs.
>>>
>>> I really like the setup. I find the handling on-road closer to what I
>>> had with the 38 slicks, but there's more grip and float, esp in wet stuff.
>>>
>>> I'm not sure how the combo will be on wet pavement or road only rides,
>>> but I like it for what I've done so far
>>>
>>> Adam
>>>
>>> On Friday, August 19, 2022 at 12:32:45 PM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Hi Scott — I don't have any relevant experience to share from riding
 off road. I love the idea of knobs and slicks together on one Sam.
 Certainly there's a good bit of writing out there somewhere explaining the
 nuances.

 On Friday, August 19, 2022 at 11:12:48 AM UTC-4 greenteadrinkers wrote:

> Hi Andrew - thanks for the insight!
> There was a review someplace about the benefit of mixing a smooth with
> a knobby, just can't remember exactly what the benefit was!
> Scott - Amherst MA
> On Friday, August 19, 2022 at 10:57:33 AM UTC-4 Andrew Turner wrote:
>
>> Scott, I've swapped between both Hatcher Pass and Oracle Ridge tires
>> on my Monstercross and can confidently say both do surprisingly well
>> off-road. Where I live, when things get really rough, they're often 
>> really
>> wet as well so the Oracle Ridge tires had slightly more grip in those
>> slippery conditions but truly slightly. Having both on the same bike
>> honestly seems like the way to go since I couldn't ever make up my mind 
>> of
>> which tire I preferred.
>>
>> Andrew
>> TN
>>
>> On Fri, Aug 19, 2022 at 9:07 AM greenteadrinkers <
>> greentea...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Eric, currently I have 700c 48mm Oracle Ridge standard casing
>>> tires (tubeless) usually around 24 psi on my 54cm Sam. My local roads 
>>> are a
>>> mix of smooth to broken pavement, gravel, double track, and some single
>>> track. I've found the 48's are smooth, quiet, and confident. Aside from
>>> road, can you speak to the 44mm Snoqualmie Pass tires on mixed surfaces?
>>> I'm considering swapping out the rear Oracle Ridge with a slick Hatcher
>>> Pass 48mm, I like the idea that you can mix and match.
>>>
>>> Thx!
>>> Scott - Amherst MA
>>>
>>> On Friday, August 19, 2022 at 12:53:16 AM UTC-4 brendonoid wrote:
>>>
 I love the Rene Herse options but if the conditions aren't perfect,
 Panaracer Paselas are just so good on damp/wet roads for confidence 
 braking
 and cornering.
 I run the biggest (38s) on my two mainly road bikes, the Homer and
 the Holdsworth. If they made a 42-44 in the Pasela I probably wouldn't 
 go
 back to the much more expensive Jan Heine creations.

 --
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>>> the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> .
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>>> 
>>> .
>>>
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P: 778.988.5429

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Re: [RBW] Flyer vs. B67

2022-08-29 Thread luckyturnip

I have both seats. I prefer the B67 for bolt upright where I’m more back on my 
butt,  and the Flyer goes on my mountain bikes/more lean-over bikes. Flyer is 
narrower by quite a bit. It’s a B17 with springs. 

> On Aug 29, 2022, at 10:00, schralp  wrote:
> 
> Just joined after purchasing my first Country bike; a beaut of a lime olive 
> platypus. Goal is to get more upright and it was outfitted with albatross 
> bars which are about perfect. However, I put my Brooks professional from the 
> 70s on and it doesn’t quite match the more upright position. I’m thinking 
> Flyer vs b67. Any recommendations from this esteemed group and, how does one 
> avoid annoying squeaks with those spring saddles. My riding is essentially 
> road and hard packed dry trails in so. Cal. Thanks!
> -- 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Differences between Sam Hillborne and A Homer Hilsen

2022-08-29 Thread R Shannon

Dave:

There is considerable overlap with the bikes so I opted to keep the Sam to
have the ability for greater carrying capacity. Also, I had a custom road
bike in the pipeline. Incidentally, my first Riv was an Atlantis followed
by the Sage Green Sam; the Sam making a greater impression on me.

Best,
Rich in ATL

On Mon, Aug 29, 2022 at 12:54 PM Dave C 
wrote:

> Rich, why did you sell the Homer and keep the Sam? Were you hauling more
> gear? Thanks
>
> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 9:48:47 AM UTC-7 RichS wrote:
>
>> Hello Dave:
>>
>> You note that you like to 'keep things light". Then go with the Homer. I
>> currently own a 2015 Hillborne and have owned a 2019 MIT Homer; both 51cm.,
>> 650b 38mm. tires. Both bikes had identical setups and the Homer was
>> certainly lighter — not by a lot but clearly discernible and consequently
>> felt a little more lively to me. As others have indicated both handle
>> similarly and offer a comfortable ride for distances of 100 miles or more
>> in a day.
>>
>> In sum, you won't go wrong with either bike.
>>
>> Best,
>> Rich in ATL
>>
>> On Sunday, August 28, 2022 at 7:48:19 PM UTC-4 Dave C wrote:
>>
>>> Has anyone has extensive experience riding both models, particularly the
>>> ones made in the 2015-2018 time period, and had an opportunity to see how
>>> they rode differently and handled different terrain? I am very interested
>>> in these models but they have changed in some ways over the years and I am
>>> trying to get a sense of what made them different besides just brake style
>>> and sometimes wheel size.. I have searched the past threads but there is
>>> not much direct comparison/contrast information. Thanks, Dave in Carlsbad
>>
>> --
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Re: [RBW] Re: Going around in circles with shifters.

2022-08-29 Thread Jay Lonner

I had never heard of Gevenalle before but those shifters look awesome. If I 
ever run drop bars again (maybe a Stargazer?) I would absolutely give those a 
try. Thanks for the suggestion. 

Jay Lonner
Bellingham, WA

Sent from my Atari 400

> On Aug 29, 2022, at 10:02 AM, shopmonkey 39  wrote:
> 
> Here's some ideas based on personal experience as I have barends on a 
> handful of bikes.  First idea since you are already there, would be to turn 
> your indexing off on your shifters.  I have this on a bike and it works great 
> in friction mode.
> 
> Second idea.  If you are open to other models of drop bar, you can look for 
> something with more run out.  I switched to Soma Highway Ones and the extra 
> run out has allowed me to run cables that apex just before the basket.
> 
> Third.  Run your cables long enough so they sit on top of the basket and when 
> your bag is full it just pushes the bag up.  My cables are just shy of the 
> zipper on my Sackville and as it fills the cables are pushed up by the load.
> 
> Fourth.  One bar end and one down tube.  This is my commuter set up.  The 
> front shift is on the down tube (non drive side) and I still shift it with my 
> right hand thru the triangle.  My bar end cable sits on top of my bag again 
> in this one but not by much.
> 
> Fifth.  Gevenalle shifters.  I love these and they work great for basket 
> bikes and even sometimes saddlebag on the front bikes.  I would choose it 
> over STI everytime.
> 
> Alot of this is based on the size of your bike, stem, bars, etc.  Also keep 
> in mind that STI depending on the size of your bike and bars can sometimes 
> hit your basket or bag.  I ran 44cm bars and occasionally if my bag was 
> stuffed it would be a struggle to shift.  
> 
>> On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 9:53:29 AM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:
>> I should add my bias here: I love bar-ends on drops, the drop-down from the 
>> hoods to push/pull a shifter is all that and a bag of chips. But if you're 
>> into brifters and want to spend the cash, go for it! 
>> 
>>> On Wednesday, August 24, 2022 at 10:43:21 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>> Did you do the super-long cables thing? You should be able to have them 
>>> come straight forward from the bottom run of the bars, then loop back under 
>>> the basket. Picture two cables looping out pretty far forward; I've tried 
>>> the "keep em short and out of the way" version and it doesn't work, I liked 
>>> them long and floppy where they would gently flop away from any load 
>>> pressing on them*
>>> 
>>> *I have no idea if this makes sense. 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
 On Wednesday, August 24, 2022 at 6:48:00 PM UTC-7 bunny...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hey all! Just looking for some gear chat.
 
 I have a Rambouillet with drop bars. I'm finally getting everything 
 comfortable, but I've been around the block with my shifters.
 
 My bike came with 8 speed bar end shifters. However, when I did my first 
 configuration I mounted them on the downtube. They worked great. It was 
 kind of a bummer to reach down, but I went with it because I loved the 
 simplicity and getting the cables off the handlebars. 
 
 After a while I decided to put them back in the bar ends. I had previously 
 used bar ends for a long time, so it felt like home. However, I have a 
 front Mark's rack with a basket and the derailleur cables were always 
 getting in the way of the front stuff.
 
 So I just ran the cables fully under the bar tape and that install works 
 great to get stuff out of the way, but now my shifting performance is 
 pretty bad from the twisty cable runs; much worse than any other 
 configurations.
 
 So, nothing is really broken, but I know it can be better. Wondering if I 
 should try again with a new take on the "not under tape" routing. Or try 
 downtube again? Or just go nuts and look for a used STI system?
 
 Let's chat!
 Ben
 
 
> 
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[RBW] Re: Flyer vs. B67

B67 or B68 (no springs) if you can find one. Or a Loveland from Rivet (no 
springs either).

Laing

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 1:00:13 PM UTC-4 schralp wrote:

> Just joined after purchasing my first Country bike; a beaut of a lime 
> olive platypus. Goal is to get more upright and it was outfitted with 
> albatross bars which are about perfect. However, I put my Brooks 
> professional from the 70s on and it doesn’t quite match the more upright 
> position. I’m thinking Flyer vs b67. Any recommendations from this esteemed 
> group and, how does one avoid annoying squeaks with those spring saddles. 
> My riding is essentially road and hard packed dry trails in so. Cal. Thanks!

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Re: [RBW] Flyer vs. B67

2022-08-29 Thread J J

About the squeaks in a B67: I came to accept the squeaks in my first B67, 
but it was more of necessity and resignation than of true appreciation. A 
few months ago I had to get a new B67 because the tension bolt snapped on 
the old one as I tried to tighten it (~10 years old) and I did not have 
time or inclination to find a new bolt and deal with repairing it. I needed 
to get back on the bike asap. 

Sure enough, the new one squeaked in the same way. I decided to spray some 
lithium-based lubricant (it was what I had handy) on all the metal parts 
around the tension bolt and the springs, anywhere there could be movement. 
The squeaking disappeared. It feels pleasantly weird to pedal along in 
almost complete silence — little noise emanates from the bike itself other 
than the sound of tires on pavement, gravel, or dirt.  

As an aside, the new B67 felt exactly like the old one to my sit parts. In 
other words, I realized that the notion of breaking in a Brooks leather 
saddle is meaningless for me. There was no appreciable difference in feel 
between a brand new one and the one I had ridden over thousands of miles 
for a decade. 

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 1:05:19 PM UTC-4 Lucky wrote:

> I have both seats. I prefer the B67 for bolt upright where I’m more back 
> on my butt,  and the Flyer goes on my mountain bikes/more lean-over bikes. 
> Flyer is narrower by quite a bit. It’s a B17 with springs. 
>
> On Aug 29, 2022, at 10:00, schralp  wrote:
>
> Just joined after purchasing my first Country bike; a beaut of a lime 
> olive platypus. Goal is to get more upright and it was outfitted with 
> albatross bars which are about perfect. However, I put my Brooks 
> professional from the 70s on and it doesn’t quite match the more upright 
> position. I’m thinking Flyer vs b67. Any recommendations from this esteemed 
> group and, how does one avoid annoying squeaks with those spring saddles. 
> My riding is essentially road and hard packed dry trails in so. Cal. 
> Thanks! 
>
> -- 
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>  
> 
> .
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Bike Repair Stand - Minoura RS-5000 - $150 obo - Local Seattle

2022-08-29 Thread Ana Candela

Of course, she will be traveling with me :)

On Fri, Aug 26, 2022 at 6:36 AM Ryan  wrote:

> I hope that beautiful purple mixte is moving with you!
>
> On Friday, August 26, 2022 at 12:50:14 AM UTC-5 Ana Candela wrote:
>
>> More photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2sFdzr8gWbp57Y6z8
>>
>> On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 10:42:09 PM UTC-7 Ana Candela wrote:
>>
>>> Hello everyone,
>>>
>>> I'm moving away very soon, and I'm parting of some bike parts and
>>> accessories that I can't take with me. I'll post more in the following
>>> weeks, but to start, the largest accessory of all:
>>>
>>> Sturdy Bike Repair Stand - Minoura RS-5000, including tool tray. Comes
>>> in original box. Collapses for easy storage. Head turns to swivel bike at
>>> the angle of your choice. A few scuffs from use. Bought from Rivendell in
>>> 2018. Original cost $261 ($240+$21).
>>>
>>> Local pickup near Capitol Hill Library.
>>>
>>> Thanks for looking!
>>>
>>> -Ana in Seattle
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_6189.jpg]
>>>
>>> --
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[RBW] Re: New drivetrain for Rivendell #2

Shelf removal: 
Grind it down 80-90% with a bench grinder if you have access to one 
(faster), Dremel if you don't. Another alternate if you are careful is a 
hacksaw across 2 shelves at a time - used a spacer (file folder cardboard 
or?) against the backside of the arm (chainring bolt surface) so that you 
have some finishing room left. - and alternate around during the cutting so 
you are not left with  a single shelf with nothing started at the end. 
Then take it down the rest of the way with a flat file across 2 arm shelves 
at a time (alternating). 
Optional finishing touch: finish with fine to ultrafine wet sandpaper on a 
flat surface (flat car glass is excellent for this - i.e. old VW beetle 
side windows) - all 5 arms at the same time. 400 - 800 - 1200 ... up to 
2000 if you want.

Laing

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 1:00:38 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Well, most of it is new, tho' there's very little to swap out since it's a 
> fixed gear. 
>
> Before: TA Pro 5 Vis 46 with 15 and 17 t cogs on the Phil fixed/fixed rear 
> for 76 gi and 67 gi.
>
> After: Dura Ace GS 200 or 300 (Can anyone say which? How are the 2 models 
> different?) 52 with single rear Dingle 17/19 for 76 gi and 68 gi.
>
> Chain remains the same (2 links added) and so does Phil ti 113 mm bb 
> assembly.
>
> Curious: It felt easier to pedal on the just-under-20 lightly rolling 
> terrain ride, both uphill and on the flats, and with and against the wind. 
> I'm not going to draw a conclusion from 1 experience, of course, but it 
> does raise the question: is the reduced friction from larger ring and cogs 
> really so noticeable?
>
> Also: I may eventually cut off the "shelves" for the inner ring. Has 
> anyone done this? What's the best way to get clean cuts and a smooth final 
> result? Will a Dremel work?
>
> BTW, the crank isn't as dirty as the photos make it seem.
>
> Thanks.
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Bike Repair Stand - Minoura RS-5000 - $150 obo - Local Seattle

2022-08-29 Thread Ana Candela

Stand has been SOLD. It seems I'm not able to remove the post to remove 
list clutter (only individual posts). Does anyone know of a trick to remove 
the whole thread? I'll look around...

Thanks!
-Ana

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:10:46 AM UTC-7 Ana Candela wrote:

> Of course, she will be traveling with me :)
>
> On Fri, Aug 26, 2022 at 6:36 AM Ryan  wrote:
>
>> I hope that beautiful purple mixte is moving with you!
>>
>> On Friday, August 26, 2022 at 12:50:14 AM UTC-5 Ana Candela wrote:
>>
>>> More photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2sFdzr8gWbp57Y6z8
>>>
>>> On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 10:42:09 PM UTC-7 Ana Candela wrote:
>>>
 Hello everyone,

 I'm moving away very soon, and I'm parting of some bike parts and 
 accessories that I can't take with me. I'll post more in the following 
 weeks, but to start, the largest accessory of all:

 Sturdy Bike Repair Stand - Minoura RS-5000, including tool tray. Comes 
 in original box. Collapses for easy storage. Head turns to swivel bike at 
 the angle of your choice. A few scuffs from use. Bought from Rivendell in 
 2018. Original cost $261 ($240+$21).

 Local pickup near Capitol Hill Library.

 Thanks for looking!

 -Ana in Seattle

 [image: IMG_6189.jpg]

 -- 
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Going around in circles with shifters.

2022-08-29 Thread Ben Adrian

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 10:02:35 AM UTC-7 shopmonkey 39 wrote:

> Here's some ideas based on personal experience as I have barends on a 
> handful of bikes.  First idea since you are already there, would be to turn 
> your indexing off on your shifters.  I have this on a bike and it works 
> great in friction mode.
>
>
I've tried this, and yeah, friction is a little better but still stiff.
 

> Second idea.  If you are open to other models of drop bar, you can look 
> for something with more run out.  I switched to Soma Highway Ones and the 
> extra run out has allowed me to run cables that apex just before the basket.
>

I actually am running 42cm highway one bars. I'm not sure what you mean by 
more run out. However, I'm thinking maybe I can do something like start to 
run the housing out of the bar tape once the bar starts to curve upward. 
This might make the shifter cables run upward out of the bars rather than 
forward?
 

> Fifth.  Gevenalle shifters.  I love these and they work great for basket 
> bikes and even sometimes saddlebag on the front bikes.  I would choose it 
> over STI everytime.
>

I had considered these, but I wish I could try them first. I've never seen 
them in real life.
 

>
> Alot of this is based on the size of your bike, stem, bars, etc.  Also 
> keep in mind that STI depending on the size of your bike and bars can 
> sometimes hit your basket or bag.  I ran 44cm bars and occasionally if my 
> bag was stuffed it would be a struggle to shift.  
>

This is a fantastic point. Shimano STIs on a set of 42cm wide bars with a 
loaded front basket seems like a bad idea.  

Thanks for your thoughts!
Ben

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Re: [RBW] Flyer vs. B67

2022-08-29 Thread Richard Rose

I cannot comment on the flyer. However, for my very upright position my B67 is 
really perfect. Since getting it I no longer need or use padded shorts. I have 
cycled probably 1,500 miles with it in total comfort. I’ve gone 4 hours 
practically non stop & did a 6 day bikecamping adventure on it. Zero problems. 
Perhaps I got lucky but the squeaks are very minimal. I’ve not even tried to 
eliminate them - they are that minor. I was gifted a lovely honey brown B17 
that I’ve not even tried as I do not want to mess with perfection. The B67 is a 
really comfortable saddle. It does take some tweaking especially regarding how 
far up the nose should point. I took my wrenches with me for the first 5 or six 
rides making minor adjustments. It is so good now I am afraid to touch it. 
Please note; some folks report issues when leaning forward on a B67. I have had 
no such issues moving from being very upright (Bosco bar) at the grips to 
grabbing the much lower & further away flats on the bar. In truth, I do not 
stay in that position very long.:) But it is fine while down there.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 29, 2022, at 1:00 PM, schralp  wrote:
> 
> Just joined after purchasing my first Country bike; a beaut of a lime olive 
> platypus. Goal is to get more upright and it was outfitted with albatross 
> bars which are about perfect. However, I put my Brooks professional from the 
> 70s on and it doesn’t quite match the more upright position. I’m thinking 
> Flyer vs b67. Any recommendations from this esteemed group and, how does one 
> avoid annoying squeaks with those spring saddles. My riding is essentially 
> road and hard packed dry trails in so. Cal. Thanks!
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Re: [RBW] Flyer vs. B67

2022-08-29 Thread Richard Rose

Yes! Mine required no break in period.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 29, 2022, at 2:08 PM, J J  wrote:
> 
> About the squeaks in a B67: I came to accept the squeaks in my first B67, 
> but it was more of necessity and resignation than of true appreciation. A few 
> months ago I had to get a new B67 because the tension bolt snapped on the old 
> one as I tried to tighten it (~10 years old) and I did not have time or 
> inclination to find a new bolt and deal with repairing it. I needed to get 
> back on the bike asap. 
> 
> Sure enough, the new one squeaked in the same way. I decided to spray some 
> lithium-based lubricant (it was what I had handy) on all the metal parts 
> around the tension bolt and the springs, anywhere there could be movement. 
> The squeaking disappeared. It feels pleasantly weird to pedal along in almost 
> complete silence — little noise emanates from the bike itself other than the 
> sound of tires on pavement, gravel, or dirt.  
> 
> As an aside, the new B67 felt exactly like the old one to my sit parts. In 
> other words, I realized that the notion of breaking in a Brooks leather 
> saddle is meaningless for me. There was no appreciable difference in feel 
> between a brand new one and the one I had ridden over thousands of miles for 
> a decade. 
> 
>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 1:05:19 PM UTC-4 Lucky wrote:
>> I have both seats. I prefer the B67 for bolt upright where I’m more back on 
>> my butt,  and the Flyer goes on my mountain bikes/more lean-over bikes. 
>> Flyer is narrower by quite a bit. It’s a B17 with springs. 
>> 
 On Aug 29, 2022, at 10:00, schralp  wrote:
 
>>> Just joined after purchasing my first Country bike; a beaut of a lime 
>>> olive platypus. Goal is to get more upright and it was outfitted with 
>>> albatross bars which are about perfect. However, I put my Brooks 
>>> professional from the 70s on and it doesn’t quite match the more upright 
>>> position. I’m thinking Flyer vs b67. Any recommendations from this esteemed 
>>> group and, how does one avoid annoying squeaks with those spring saddles. 
>>> My riding is essentially road and hard packed dry trails in so. Cal. Thanks!
>>> -- 
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[RBW] Re: Best all-around useful saddlebag?

2022-08-29 Thread Evan E.

Is the Swift Zeitgeist made in USA? It says here on this page, under the 
"Specs" tab

https://builtbyswift.com/shop/zeitgeist-pack/

that it is "Made in Surabaya, Indonesia out of recycled materials." 

^ Not a criticism. Just a question.

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[RBW] Re: FS: choco-moose bar.

2022-08-29 Thread Max S

If anyone has another ChocoMoose, I'd be interested! 

- Max "bar junkie" in A2

On Saturday, August 27, 2022 at 12:54:35 AM UTC-4 Carl G wrote:

> Sold pending payment. 
>
> Thanks all.
>
> On Friday, August 26, 2022 at 7:51:36 PM UTC-7 Carl G wrote:
>
>> Hi all, 
>>
>> Doing some new-project fund-raising so I'll be selling some stuff I've 
>> been sitting on for a bit.
>>
>> I bought these bars from blue-lug a couple of years ago but used them 
>> only briefly on my Atlantis. These had once been wrapped with Newbaums, so 
>> they might have a bit of tape glue, but they've always been stored indoors 
>> and overall in very good shape.
>>
>> Due to the size of the box I expect shipping only is going to be $50+, so 
>> I'd like to get $150 shipped to continental US address, which should be a 
>> pretty decent discount from new. Prefer payment via Paypal.
>>
>>  Let me know if any additional info is needed
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> -- 
>> Carl
>>
>> [image: IMG_0579.jpg][image: IMG_0581.jpg]
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Best all-around useful saddlebag?

2022-08-29 Thread Brian Turner

Evan - they used to be, but Swift announced last year (I think) that they 
were needing to switch most of their production of their more popular bags 
overseas in order to keep up with demand. I believe they still make a few 
things and special projects in the PNW.

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 3:46:03 PM UTC-4 Evan E. wrote:

> Is the Swift Zeitgeist made in USA? It says here on this page, under the 
> "Specs" tab
>
> https://builtbyswift.com/shop/zeitgeist-pack/
>
> that it is "Made in Surabaya, Indonesia out of recycled materials." 
>
> ^ Not a criticism. Just a question.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rolling on the Rivendell Mountain

2022-08-29 Thread R. Alexis

Hey Gabriel,

The Softride suspension stem and the Thudbuster Uni-Pivot are comfortable. 
When trying to decide what bike to use the Rivendell Mountain and my OX 
Brand Ti cruiser were top of the list due to the comfort factor. I played 
with the thought of riding the Gary Fisher Gemini tandem solo, but still 
need to button up the build and figure out transporting it. I think it will 
fit in my 2015 Jetta with the rear seat folded and the passenger front seat 
pushed forward with the wheels removed and captain seatpost/stoker bars 
removed and some finagling.  

The 42 miler was the longest ride I have done this year, but have been out 
quite a bit on the bike this year. The ride felt good. Have thought of 
replacing the Thudbuster Uni-Pivot with a Cane Creek 3G Thudbuster ST or 
eeSilk+, but not crazy about the all black post. Does not look like that 
will change, although, the eeSilk suspension stem intro model comes in 
silver. My post has a bit of a creek in use. Will address it with some dry 
lube. 

I would definitely be interested in meeting up for Rivendell/Bridgestone 
ride. I am in Fremont, but work in Omaha and Lincoln is not out of the way 
for me. Doing the Taco Ride over at the Wabash Trace in Council Bluffs, IA 
just across from Omaha sounds good too. 

Thanks,

Reginald Alexis

On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 2:32:12 PM UTC-5 Gabriel Bruguier wrote:

> I love the way this thread is developing!  
>
> CJ-- it is the Nitto & Blue Lug Hi Bar.  Crust sells them but they're out 
> of stock at the moment.
>
> Reginald-- thanks so much for sharing the story of ordering your 
> Mountain.  What a Christmas that must have been!  I'm very curious how the 
> suspension stem and seatpost feel on the frame.  And I forgot to mention in 
> my response above that I really dig the silver paintjob!
>
> Same goes for you, Ryan, with your story of obtaining your All Rounder.  
> Agreed that these original models are great!  I'm curious how the Mountain 
> and All Rounder compare to eachother in terms of ride?
>
> malvarezjr88-- that is a beaut of an Atlantis!  I had a Toyo one as well 
> but let it go, a decision I regret to this day.  Just out of curiosity, 
> what size is yours?  
>
> Jason, I'd be down to explore that.  I have a couple of Riv/Bridgestone 
> friends around Lincoln who'd be glad to join.
>
> Finally, Scott, no, the original build came with Suntour Barcons on a 
> Moustache bar.  Those are waiting in a drawer for something special.  These 
> are actually mismatched shifters, because they were installed at different 
> points.  I first installed a Dia Compe on the left because I was riding a 
> "3 speed" ie, triple up front and a single cog & Paul chain tensioner on 
> the back.  The right is a Shimano 600 that went on when the geared rear 
> wheel went on.  There is no rhyme or reason here, just parts that were 
> close at hand when I was building it up!
>
> On Wednesday, August 24, 2022 at 7:50:59 PM UTC-5 Scott wrote:
>
>> That's a rad ride, Gabriel! It come stock with down tube shifters?
>> And I'm wondering what the mirror thingy is, too! So thanks for asking...
>> Scott
>>
>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
>> 
>>
>> On Tue, Aug 23, 2022 at 1:31 PM, Gabriel Bruguier
>>  wrote:
>>
>> Couldn't post a second photo, here is the drive side.
>> [image: Mountain2.jpg]
>>
>> On Tuesday, August 23, 2022 at 2:09:24 PM UTC-5 Gabriel Bruguier wrote:
>>
>> Hey Reginald,
>> Fellow Mountain rider and Nebraskan here!  Thanks for posting about your 
>> ride report and the photo of your setup!  
>>
>> I wonder if there's something in the air around here, because I was also 
>> recently thinking my Mountain needed some attention, and took it out of 
>> storage.  It was sitting around without wheels, so I had the bright idea to 
>> try a 650b conversion on it.  Fantastic!!! It is running BG Rock n Roads 
>> 43mm, plenty of clearance in the frame, and handling actually feels 
>> improved.  (Previous tire was RH Rat Trap Passes.)  
>>
>> I'm the 3rd owner of mine, and it came to me with similar drivetrain 
>> components-- triple Logic cranks, XC short cage rear der, and Suntour 
>> mountain front der. Those are the only original parts that remain on mine.  
>> Are you the original owner of yours?  Thank you,
>> -Gabe
>> [image: Mountain1.jpg]
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, August 22, 2022 at 8:58:11 PM UTC-5 Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY 
>> wrote:
>>
>> That’s the coolest! Love it’s mechanical features (matching 
>> suspensions!), and I’m glad to hear your mechanical was manageable.
>> -Kai
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, August 21, 2022 at 11:35:11 PM UTC-4 R. Alexis wrote:
>>
>> Did the Corporate Cycling Challenge today, 
>> https://showofficeonline.com/CorporateCyclingChallenge/. Decided to use 
>> the Rivendell Mountain to do it based on wanting as comfortabl

[RBW] Re: Flyer vs. B67

2022-08-29 Thread Roberta

Welcome to the club with your new marvelous Platy!!!  I wish you miles 
of pain free fun. 

I’ve had both saddles (and the related b17 and b68, both nonsprung 
versions) and the saddles that fits MY sits bones best, be it on a Platy or 
Appaloosa or Homer is the B67/68.  So I think it might be a best  fit 
issue, like shoe widths—flyer is a medium, b67 wide. 

YSBMV (a take on YMMV).
Roberta 

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 1:00:13 PM UTC-4 schralp wrote:

> Just joined after purchasing my first Country bike; a beaut of a lime 
> olive platypus. Goal is to get more upright and it was outfitted with 
> albatross bars which are about perfect. However, I put my Brooks 
> professional from the 70s on and it doesn’t quite match the more upright 
> position. I’m thinking Flyer vs b67. Any recommendations from this esteemed 
> group and, how does one avoid annoying squeaks with those spring saddles. 
> My riding is essentially road and hard packed dry trails in so. Cal. Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: Going around in circles with shifters.

2022-08-29 Thread Garth

While I get everyone trying to sell on you new parts and all Ben but it 
seems it's a cable routing issue. Why not call Riv and ask someone there as 
they've seen countless setups applicable to yours if you're not sure how to 
do a "super long" cable run ?  For that matter, the simplicity and 
universality of DT shifters is often overlooked. So you've got to move your 
body to shift, so ? ! 

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 2:57:10 PM UTC-4 bunny...@gmail.com wrote:

> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 10:02:35 AM UTC-7 shopmonkey 39 wrote:
>
>> Here's some ideas based on personal experience as I have barends on a 
>> handful of bikes.  First idea since you are already there, would be to turn 
>> your indexing off on your shifters.  I have this on a bike and it works 
>> great in friction mode.
>>
>>
> I've tried this, and yeah, friction is a little better but still stiff.
>  
>
>> Second idea.  If you are open to other models of drop bar, you can look 
>> for something with more run out.  I switched to Soma Highway Ones and the 
>> extra run out has allowed me to run cables that apex just before the basket.
>>
>
> I actually am running 42cm highway one bars. I'm not sure what you mean by 
> more run out. However, I'm thinking maybe I can do something like start to 
> run the housing out of the bar tape once the bar starts to curve upward. 
> This might make the shifter cables run upward out of the bars rather than 
> forward?
>  
>
>> Fifth.  Gevenalle shifters.  I love these and they work great for basket 
>> bikes and even sometimes saddlebag on the front bikes.  I would choose it 
>> over STI everytime.
>>
>
> I had considered these, but I wish I could try them first. I've never seen 
> them in real life.
>  
>
>>
>> Alot of this is based on the size of your bike, stem, bars, etc.  Also 
>> keep in mind that STI depending on the size of your bike and bars can 
>> sometimes hit your basket or bag.  I ran 44cm bars and occasionally if my 
>> bag was stuffed it would be a struggle to shift.  
>>
>
> This is a fantastic point. Shimano STIs on a set of 42cm wide bars with a 
> loaded front basket seems like a bad idea.  
>
> Thanks for your thoughts!
> Ben
>

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[RBW] Re: New drivetrain for Rivendell #2

2022-08-29 Thread Garth

I suppose I could question you Patrick 'till the cows come home and I'll 
never understand why you'd want to permanently alter a perfectly good crank.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Differences between Sam Hillborne and A Homer Hilsen

2022-08-29 Thread Toshi Takeuchi

Just to be more confusing, I have a circa 2012 Homer, and I believe the
even sizes are 650b and the odd sizes are 700c, so there was some overlap
within some of the sizes.  I have a 54 cm AHH 650b, and I believe the 55 cm
and 57 cm were 700c, while the 56 cm was 650b.

My Homer maxed out at 38 mm tires + fenders--I've used Parimoto, Lierre,
GravelKing, and Soma Xpress, and all are good for me (depending upon the
application, eg. commute vs fast ride).  My favorite tire size for 650b is
42 mm, and I believe the Sam H can ride those with fenders, so I might lean
that direction if I had to choose.

Toshi

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: choco-moose bar.

2022-08-29 Thread Richard Rose

https://asheville.craigslist.org/bop/d/asheville-rivendell-choco-moose-bars/7525379809.html

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 29, 2022, at 4:02 PM, Max S  wrote:
> 
> If anyone has another ChocoMoose, I'd be interested! 
> 
> - Max "bar junkie" in A2
> 
>> On Saturday, August 27, 2022 at 12:54:35 AM UTC-4 Carl G wrote:
>> Sold pending payment. 
>> 
>> Thanks all.
>> 
>>> On Friday, August 26, 2022 at 7:51:36 PM UTC-7 Carl G wrote:
>>> Hi all, 
>>> 
>>> Doing some new-project fund-raising so I'll be selling some stuff I've been 
>>> sitting on for a bit.
>>> 
>>> I bought these bars from blue-lug a couple of years ago but used them only 
>>> briefly on my Atlantis. These had once been wrapped with Newbaums, so they 
>>> might have a bit of tape glue, but they've always been stored indoors and 
>>> overall in very good shape.
>>> 
>>> Due to the size of the box I expect shipping only is going to be $50+, so 
>>> I'd like to get $150 shipped to continental US address, which should be a 
>>> pretty decent discount from new. Prefer payment via Paypal.
>>> 
>>>  Let me know if any additional info is needed
>>> 
>>> Thanks!
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> Carl
>>> 
>>> 
> 
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[RBW] Re: Do you Rapid Rise? (Share pics and thoughts)

2022-08-29 Thread Corwin Zechar

Really hard to make ends meet with a 20% markup. With a 10% or 20% markup, 
you're more likely to be selling groceries than bikes.

I would be discouraged too. Working hard and putting lots of resources 
behind a project you love - only to have it become impossible is really 
tough to deal with.

Regards,

Corwin

On Friday, August 26, 2022 at 6:14:35 AM UTC-7 J J wrote:

> Yeah, I read the blog. The $345 would presumably be Riv's wholesale price, 
> right? So... assuming a nominal retail markup of, say, 20%, the  price 
> would be ~$415 for the end user. No idea if there is a standard industry 
> markup, and we know Rivendell marches to their own rhythm. A 10% markup 
> would be ~$380; 30% ~$450. Grant seemed disheartened. I really appreciate 
> his transparency. 
> (Your build videos are great btw Eric.)  
>
> On Friday, August 26, 2022 at 8:57:56 AM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Great pics, Ana, and yeah, those Nexaves are quite large! 
>>
>> Did you all read the latest Blahg? Seems the prototypes are crazy 
>> expensive. They'll be CNC machined. Here's Grant's quote from the 
>> fabricators: 
>>
>> "50 pieces. These will be made by CNC machining They will cost $345.5 
>> USD each,  total $17,275 USD. The cost base on the QTY"
>>
>> More here.  
>> Um,
>>  
>> does it seem like maybe 50 Rivendell customers would pool together and 
>> chunk in a non-refundable $350 towards getting this project moving in the 
>> (opposite) direction?  
>> On Friday, August 26, 2022 at 3:24:45 AM UTC-4 Ana Candela wrote:
>>
>>> Yes, and love it! I got one last year thanks to Grant's suggestion: 
>>> Shimano Nexave RD-C505. It is rather large compared to the other ones I'm 
>>> seeing posted here, but hey, function before form. I am very much looking 
>>> forward to Rivendell's derailer project because function will be enhanced 
>>> by form. I think it's coming along beautifully :)
>>>
>>> My RR der is the #1 upgrade that I've done to my bike, and that's saying 
>>> a lot! The reason is thanks to its logic of shifting: it doesn't twist my 
>>> brain and wreak havoc like "normal" ones do. I always thought the shifting 
>>> in bikes was counterintuitive, but I assumed that was the way of derailers. 
>>> Then at some point Grant brought up the rapid-rise derailers in the Blahg, 
>>> and I almost heard angels sing, haha!
>>>
>>> Now both derailers work with the same logic: if I'm climbing UP a hill, 
>>> I pull either or both shifters UP (easy gear); if I'm going DOWN or flat at 
>>> speed, I push DOWN (hard gear). This just makes sense. And then with 
>>> friction shifters it is just delightful to shift. So smooth and almost 
>>> silent. Bliss!
>>>
>>> Below are a couple photos from last Sunday. Long live the Rapid-Rise 
>>> Derailer!
>>>
>>> -Ana in Seattle
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_6954.jpg]
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_6934.jpg]
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Differences between Sam Hillborne and A Homer Hilsen

2022-08-29 Thread Dave Grossman

I have an older Homer (not sure if it is Waterford or Toyo but I'd like to 
know actually) and having owned a Roadini I can say I find it a much 
superior all around bike.  I hadn't considered a Sam since I have a Hunq 
but I can do light touring and backpacking with my Homer if I desire.  I 
rotate it in my commuter stable with the Hunq and I end up riding it quite 
often.  I currently have it set up with Crust Towel bars (with a large Fabs 
in the middle!), VO fenders, and 44s.  I have it maxed out, but it is such 
a great ride.  I've thought about getting a stripped road bike but the 
Homer is so versatile.  I think if I didn't have the Hunq, I'd be more 
inclined to get a Sam.  But if you already have a hauler an older Homer is 
the way to go.  I have a 63, which I am on the small side for with a 90 
pbh, but it fits great and I love the ride.  My Hunq is a 58 and while I 
can clear a 62 (I've ridden the 62 before) I love having the clearance that 
a slightly smaller frame allows for the rough stuff.  

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 4:27:16 PM UTC-5 ttoshi wrote:

> Just to be more confusing, I have a circa 2012 Homer, and I believe the 
> even sizes are 650b and the odd sizes are 700c, so there was some overlap 
> within some of the sizes.  I have a 54 cm AHH 650b, and I believe the 55 cm 
> and 57 cm were 700c, while the 56 cm was 650b.  
>
> My Homer maxed out at 38 mm tires + fenders--I've used Parimoto, Lierre, 
> GravelKing, and Soma Xpress, and all are good for me (depending upon the 
> application, eg. commute vs fast ride).  My favorite tire size for 650b is 
> 42 mm, and I believe the Sam H can ride those with fenders, so I might lean 
> that direction if I had to choose.  
>
> Toshi
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Your Road or Road-ish Riv Rubber Radius (tire width)

2022-08-29 Thread Alexander Chalmers

Never measured the 27s and the bike they were on was stolen a few years
back unfortunately. I'll have to check the 40s and get back to you.

I've only very briefly ridden soma shikoros. They were nice too, though I
have to say i didn't like them as much. They were on wildly different bikes
though and the shikoros were at much higher pressure so not a great
comparison.

In that same size I have a set of mavic all road tires in 35mm to go on
some future build as well. Haven't ridden the 35s yet but i had the same
tires in 30mm that came with a mavic wheelset I bought, and they felt great
too actually. Mavic is definitely not my first thought for tires but they
were a pleasant surprise

On Mon, Aug 29, 2022, 12:02 PM Chris Dedinsky  wrote:

> I'm glad to hear it Alexander. I'm pretty set on getting a 36mm pair for
> my Heron touring bike, which is kinda the max clearance I think to get in
> there and keep my fenders. Did your 27s and or 40s measure fairly true to
> size? The other tires I've been leaning towards are the 38mm SOMA Shikoro's
> and or Supple Vitesse. I guess all this to say, 700x~35 feels good for a
> road and road-ish rubber radius.
>
> On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 8:46:58 AM UTC-7 alexander...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>
>> Chris, I rode on 27mm Strada Biancas on an old Nishiki for a while and
>> loved them. Would have gone bigger but didn't have the clearance. Now I
>> have some 40mm Challenge Getaways on my CX bike. They probably the fastest
>> feeling tires I've ever ridden. If I end up getting the Quickbeam I am
>> hoping to buy soon, I plan to put some Strada Biancas in 36 or 40mm on it
>> On Wednesday, August 24, 2022 at 11:19:17 PM UTC-5 chris@gmail.com
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Chris -- the Roadeo from the last Riv blast is headed my way very
>>> soon! I'll let y'all know how they ride.
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, August 24, 2022 at 5:50:29 PM UTC-7 h...@chrisdedinsky.com
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Has anyone tried out the 36 Challenge Strada Bianca's as featured on
 the Roadeo in the last e-blast—and if so, thoughts?

 On Friday, August 19, 2022 at 2:27:26 PM UTC-7 Adam wrote:

> I accidentally ended up trying Hurricane Ridge front with Snoqualmie
> Pass rear--as a way to salvage the two front tires from worn pairs.
>
> I really like the setup. I find the handling on-road closer to what I
> had with the 38 slicks, but there's more grip and float, esp in wet stuff.
>
> I'm not sure how the combo will be on wet pavement or road only rides,
> but I like it for what I've done so far
>
> Adam
>
> On Friday, August 19, 2022 at 12:32:45 PM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>
>> Hi Scott — I don't have any relevant experience to share from riding
>> off road. I love the idea of knobs and slicks together on one Sam.
>> Certainly there's a good bit of writing out there somewhere explaining 
>> the
>> nuances.
>>
>> On Friday, August 19, 2022 at 11:12:48 AM UTC-4 greenteadrinkers
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Andrew - thanks for the insight!
>>> There was a review someplace about the benefit of mixing a smooth
>>> with a knobby, just can't remember exactly what the benefit was!
>>> Scott - Amherst MA
>>> On Friday, August 19, 2022 at 10:57:33 AM UTC-4 Andrew Turner wrote:
>>>
 Scott, I've swapped between both Hatcher Pass and Oracle Ridge
 tires on my Monstercross and can confidently say both do surprisingly 
 well
 off-road. Where I live, when things get really rough, they're often 
 really
 wet as well so the Oracle Ridge tires had slightly more grip in those
 slippery conditions but truly slightly. Having both on the same bike
 honestly seems like the way to go since I couldn't ever make up my 
 mind of
 which tire I preferred.

 Andrew
 TN

 On Fri, Aug 19, 2022 at 9:07 AM greenteadrinkers <
 greentea...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Eric, currently I have 700c 48mm Oracle Ridge standard casing
> tires (tubeless) usually around 24 psi on my 54cm Sam. My local roads 
> are a
> mix of smooth to broken pavement, gravel, double track, and some 
> single
> track. I've found the 48's are smooth, quiet, and confident. Aside 
> from
> road, can you speak to the 44mm Snoqualmie Pass tires on mixed 
> surfaces?
> I'm considering swapping out the rear Oracle Ridge with a slick 
> Hatcher
> Pass 48mm, I like the idea that you can mix and match.
>
> Thx!
> Scott - Amherst MA
>
> On Friday, August 19, 2022 at 12:53:16 AM UTC-4 brendonoid wrote:
>
>> I love the Rene Herse options but if the conditions aren't
>> perfect, Panaracer Paselas are just so good on damp/wet roads for
>> confidence braking and cornering.
>

Re: [RBW] Re: Differences between Sam Hillborne and A Homer Hilsen

Maybe somebody is ready to sell an older Homer and just needs a nudge. 

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 7:25:19 PM UTC-7 Dave Grossman wrote:

> I have an older Homer (not sure if it is Waterford or Toyo but I'd like to 
> know actually) and having owned a Roadini I can say I find it a much 
> superior all around bike.  I hadn't considered a Sam since I have a Hunq 
> but I can do light touring and backpacking with my Homer if I desire.  I 
> rotate it in my commuter stable with the Hunq and I end up riding it quite 
> often.  I currently have it set up with Crust Towel bars (with a large Fabs 
> in the middle!), VO fenders, and 44s.  I have it maxed out, but it is such 
> a great ride.  I've thought about getting a stripped road bike but the 
> Homer is so versatile.  I think if I didn't have the Hunq, I'd be more 
> inclined to get a Sam.  But if you already have a hauler an older Homer is 
> the way to go.  I have a 63, which I am on the small side for with a 90 
> pbh, but it fits great and I love the ride.  My Hunq is a 58 and while I 
> can clear a 62 (I've ridden the 62 before) I love having the clearance that 
> a slightly smaller frame allows for the rough stuff.  
>
> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 4:27:16 PM UTC-5 ttoshi wrote:
>
>> Just to be more confusing, I have a circa 2012 Homer, and I believe the 
>> even sizes are 650b and the odd sizes are 700c, so there was some overlap 
>> within some of the sizes.  I have a 54 cm AHH 650b, and I believe the 55 cm 
>> and 57 cm were 700c, while the 56 cm was 650b.  
>>
>> My Homer maxed out at 38 mm tires + fenders--I've used Parimoto, Lierre, 
>> GravelKing, and Soma Xpress, and all are good for me (depending upon the 
>> application, eg. commute vs fast ride).  My favorite tire size for 650b is 
>> 42 mm, and I believe the Sam H can ride those with fenders, so I might lean 
>> that direction if I had to choose.  
>>
>> Toshi
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Flyer vs. B67

2022-08-29 Thread Kim Hetzel

I have no experience with the Brooks Flyer saddle. However, I do have 
experience with the Brooks B-67-S. 

I prefer the short-nosed B-67S over the long nosed B-67. In regards to the 
noise of squeaking and creaking of the springs on my B-67-S riding down the 
road, it does not bother me at all. The sounds remind me of riding in an 
old car on a bench seat, hearing the springs squeak riding over pot holes 
in the road. 

Kim Hetzel
Yelm, WA.
On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 1:51:14 PM UTC-7 Roberta wrote:

> Welcome to the club with your new marvelous Platy!!!  I wish you miles 
> of pain free fun. 
>
> I’ve had both saddles (and the related b17 and b68, both nonsprung 
> versions) and the saddles that fits MY sits bones best, be it on a Platy or 
> Appaloosa or Homer is the B67/68.  So I think it might be a best  fit 
> issue, like shoe widths—flyer is a medium, b67 wide. 
>
> YSBMV (a take on YMMV).
> Roberta 
>
>
> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 1:00:13 PM UTC-4 schralp wrote:
>
>> Just joined after purchasing my first Country bike; a beaut of a lime 
>> olive platypus. Goal is to get more upright and it was outfitted with 
>> albatross bars which are about perfect. However, I put my Brooks 
>> professional from the 70s on and it doesn’t quite match the more upright 
>> position. I’m thinking Flyer vs b67. Any recommendations from this esteemed 
>> group and, how does one avoid annoying squeaks with those spring saddles. 
>> My riding is essentially road and hard packed dry trails in so. Cal. Thanks!
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Flyer vs. B67

Thanks. Do you notice the B67 impacting hamstrings given the width?

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 10:05:19 AM UTC-7 Lucky wrote:

> I have both seats. I prefer the B67 for bolt upright where I’m more back 
> on my butt,  and the Flyer goes on my mountain bikes/more lean-over bikes. 
> Flyer is narrower by quite a bit. It’s a B17 with springs. 
>
> On Aug 29, 2022, at 10:00, schralp  wrote:
>
> Just joined after purchasing my first Country bike; a beaut of a lime 
> olive platypus. Goal is to get more upright and it was outfitted with 
> albatross bars which are about perfect. However, I put my Brooks 
> professional from the 70s on and it doesn’t quite match the more upright 
> position. I’m thinking Flyer vs b67. Any recommendations from this esteemed 
> group and, how does one avoid annoying squeaks with those spring saddles. 
> My riding is essentially road and hard packed dry trails in so. Cal. 
> Thanks! 
>
> -- 
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>  
> 
> .
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Flyer vs. B67

Thanks; nice to be a part of it. I like that the Flyer can be had with a 
cutout but not sure how comfortable the hard edges of those are. 
Unfortunate that B67 does not have that option but maybe I should try both 
and sell whichever doesn’t work?

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 1:51:14 PM UTC-7 Roberta wrote:

> Welcome to the club with your new marvelous Platy!!!  I wish you miles 
> of pain free fun. 
>
> I’ve had both saddles (and the related b17 and b68, both nonsprung 
> versions) and the saddles that fits MY sits bones best, be it on a Platy or 
> Appaloosa or Homer is the B67/68.  So I think it might be a best  fit 
> issue, like shoe widths—flyer is a medium, b67 wide. 
>
> YSBMV (a take on YMMV).
> Roberta 
>
>
> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 1:00:13 PM UTC-4 schralp wrote:
>
>> Just joined after purchasing my first Country bike; a beaut of a lime 
>> olive platypus. Goal is to get more upright and it was outfitted with 
>> albatross bars which are about perfect. However, I put my Brooks 
>> professional from the 70s on and it doesn’t quite match the more upright 
>> position. I’m thinking Flyer vs b67. Any recommendations from this esteemed 
>> group and, how does one avoid annoying squeaks with those spring saddles. 
>> My riding is essentially road and hard packed dry trails in so. Cal. Thanks!
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Flyer vs. B67

Thanks, maybe something to try right off the bat…

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:08:01 AM UTC-7 J J wrote:

> About the squeaks in a B67: I came to accept the squeaks in my first B67, 
> but it was more of necessity and resignation than of true appreciation. A 
> few months ago I had to get a new B67 because the tension bolt snapped on 
> the old one as I tried to tighten it (~10 years old) and I did not have 
> time or inclination to find a new bolt and deal with repairing it. I needed 
> to get back on the bike asap. 
>
> Sure enough, the new one squeaked in the same way. I decided to spray some 
> lithium-based lubricant (it was what I had handy) on all the metal parts 
> around the tension bolt and the springs, anywhere there could be movement. 
> The squeaking disappeared. It feels pleasantly weird to pedal along in 
> almost complete silence — little noise emanates from the bike itself other 
> than the sound of tires on pavement, gravel, or dirt.  
>
> As an aside, the new B67 felt exactly like the old one to my sit parts. In 
> other words, I realized that the notion of breaking in a Brooks leather 
> saddle is meaningless for me. There was no appreciable difference in feel 
> between a brand new one and the one I had ridden over thousands of miles 
> for a decade. 
>
> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 1:05:19 PM UTC-4 Lucky wrote:
>
>> I have both seats. I prefer the B67 for bolt upright where I’m more back 
>> on my butt,  and the Flyer goes on my mountain bikes/more lean-over bikes. 
>> Flyer is narrower by quite a bit. It’s a B17 with springs. 
>>
>> On Aug 29, 2022, at 10:00, schralp  wrote:
>>
>> Just joined after purchasing my first Country bike; a beaut of a lime 
>> olive platypus. Goal is to get more upright and it was outfitted with 
>> albatross bars which are about perfect. However, I put my Brooks 
>> professional from the 70s on and it doesn’t quite match the more upright 
>> position. I’m thinking Flyer vs b67. Any recommendations from this esteemed 
>> group and, how does one avoid annoying squeaks with those spring saddles. 
>> My riding is essentially road and hard packed dry trails in so. Cal. 
>> Thanks! 
>>
>> -- 
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/1e5406cb-0484-4e65-bd05-ac6b17f29561n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Flyer vs. B67

I thought about the Loveland but want the isolation the springs provide for 
the more upright position. That said, I am not bolt upright. 

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 10:51:48 AM UTC-7 lconley wrote:

> B67 or B68 (no springs) if you can find one. Or a Loveland from Rivet (no 
> springs either).
>
> Laing
>
> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 1:00:13 PM UTC-4 schralp wrote:
>
>> Just joined after purchasing my first Country bike; a beaut of a lime 
>> olive platypus. Goal is to get more upright and it was outfitted with 
>> albatross bars which are about perfect. However, I put my Brooks 
>> professional from the 70s on and it doesn’t quite match the more upright 
>> position. I’m thinking Flyer vs b67. Any recommendations from this esteemed 
>> group and, how does one avoid annoying squeaks with those spring saddles. 
>> My riding is essentially road and hard packed dry trails in so. Cal. Thanks!
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Flyer vs. B67