Re: [RBW] Re: Cutting tnreadless steer tube

[Richard Rose]

Thanks folks. You all have confirmed my own thoughts.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 16, 2023, at 11:25 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:Ed's solution is probably a good guideline. I would add to not be in a hurry to cut it, you may ride it for a while and realize Boscos aren't your thing and will need extra steerer for a lower bar. I would put a bunch of spacers on top and let it be weird for a couple months! On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 7:40:41 PM UTC-8 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:Perhaps a question for Gus owners only? Is there a consensus on cutting down steering tubes? My Bosco bar will arrive in a day or two & I anticipate I will end up with a lot of extra steerer. How much is too much above the stem once the fit is dialed in? Not just an aesthetic issue but a practical one as well.



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[RBW] Re: Lightweight wheels question: J bend vs straight pull (Ritchey vs Hunt)

[lconley]

So if the spoke tension is equal on both sides, why would one side need 
washers? Makes no sense to me.

Laing

On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 4:44:22 PM UTC-5 pi...@gmail.com wrote:

> I would consider Ted Neugent's wheels: 
> http://www.neugentcycling.com/Alloy-Wheels.html
>
> The TwoX technology (16 drive side spokes, 8 non-drive side spokes so you 
> can have equal tension of spokes on both sides, with washers on the 
> non-drive side so you can tension them safely without the rim cracking) 
> makes a lot of sense to me. I've ordered a set and will report back when I 
> get some real riding experience. I build my own wheels and they're reliable 
> but his approach makes sense and he has the scale to get the right parts 
> drilled correctly in this case, and I can't build anything  as light.
>
> On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 1:18:22 PM UTC-8 andyree...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Hey there group,  
>>
>> As far as pre-built, lightweight alloy wheelsets are concerned, I'm 
>> currently looking at 3: 
>> Pacenti brevet, Ritchey Zeta II classic, and Hunt but leaning towards the 
>> last 2. I've had experience with Ritchey's and really enjoyed them and 
>> their clever J-bend design, but Hunt's are better stocked. Does anyone have 
>> positive experience with Hunt wheels or do they lack longevity? 
>>
>> I'd also be inclined to hear about your custom-built lightweight wheelset 
>> experiences. My goal weight is something in the 1600g range w/ skewers.  
>>
>> Cheers, 
>> Andrew
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: bottom bracket toubleshooting trivia

[ascpgh]

Your NOS BBs have really nice high quality bearings. I would imagine that 
the tolerances related to a mild load on those bearings that accumulate 
from the bearings themselves in the cylinder, the cartridge installation 
cups' receptacle ends, their threading and the frame's BB threading when 
all torqued to spec add up enough to produce some perceived interference to 
silk smooth finger rotation. 

BBs take a pretty big load in use and the bearings (of units that become 
legend like yours) are not particularly delicate but superior enough in 
precision that you can  feel some resistance prior to what break in will 
produce. They ought to be fine. 

When I replaced the Phil Wood BB in my Rambouillet with an SKF for a 
shorter spindle when going from triple to wide double I was stunned by the 
drag the SKF's seal system put on finger rotation and installed crank free 
rotation after spinning them. Not because of a single outer rubber grommet 
but the labyrinths of each end and lubricant inside. No grinding or 
destructive feeling load felt, I built enough box bikes to know how a 
cruddy BB feels by the intermittence of resistance or that grinding feeling 
in the 360° of rotation. By free tune up time after the sale some of the 
most mundane no-brand BBs were running smoothly and kept doing their job 
for a reasonable if not notable duration given how primitive and cheap they 
appeared to be.

Hubs act the same way to finger rotation or wheel free spinning after 
installation. I came to dislike Shimano Parallax architecture hubs because 
of their rubber cone seals, connected to axle nut, engaged and rotated in a 
large diameter but thin groove on the end of he hub body. Lots of drag on 
top of the tactile sense that they were easily overcome by dust, water or 
mud.

Andy Cheatham
Pittsbugrh

On Sunday, January 15, 2023 at 1:36:11 PM UTC-5 Scott wrote:

> Hey, Bunch:
>
> Pinging the group's knowledge for input/feedback on an issue I'm having 
> with an install of a new cartridge style BB in a new frame.
>
> I'm building a new Atlantis and Gus. I installed a new BB (Shimano XTR 
> UN91) in Atlantis and torqued to spec. It's butterlicious smooth. Installed 
> cranks and gave them a spin. It's what every man, woman, and child wants. 
>
> I installed same BB (also new) in Gus and tightened to spec. When I turn 
> the spindle by hand it is not smooth (definitely some resistance and a tad 
> sticky) like the one I installed in Atlantis or an uninstalled one. Why is 
> that? I checked it before install, and it was butter smooth. I uninstalled 
> it from Gus, and it spins butter smooth. I reinstalled main body section to 
> spec, and it is butter smooth, no change. When I install the opposing cup 
> (Shimano calls it an adapter), at this point is when I begin to notice a 
> notable change in spindle rotation smoothness.
>
> I've ensured proper shell widths. And I've ensured shell/cartridge faces 
> are clean and blemish-free.
>
> Of note, opposing cup spins freely during install for about one third the 
> way to full seat. From there it spins freely part of rotation and not 
> freely otherwise. I can turn it by hand still using splined-tool, but there 
> is definitely resistance during part of the rotation. After I can't go any 
> further by hand, I fully seat with torque wrench.
>
> Could it be that the threads on either side of the shell are not exactly 
> coplanar, since threads are not continuous from one side of shell to the 
> other?
> It shouldn't be a shell facing issue, because the opposing cup doesn't 
> interface with shell face.
>
> Confounding to me. There isn't much to installing a new cartridge style BB 
> into a new frame...screw it in. That's the problem, in part. There's 
> nothing to correct with install technique. I'd love to be wrong and get it 
> butter smooth like one in my Atlantis, for example.
>
> Please, share your thoughts as to what the source of issue may be and 
> recommended remedy!
>
> Scott in (I want it to be spring, summer, and fall) Montana
>
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lightweight wheels question: J bend vs straight pull (Ritchey vs Hunt)

[藍俊彪]

The drive side still has higher tension, and the way to get durable wheels
is to get high tension without cracking the rim. The washers spread the
load of the spoke nipple over a wider area and prevents the rim from
cracking. With lowish spoke count wheels and dished wheels, you can easily
exceed the rim's cracking threshold.

On Tue, Jan 17, 2023 at 4:27 AM lconley  wrote:

> So if the spoke tension is equal on both sides, why would one side need
> washers? Makes no sense to me.
>
> Laing
>
> On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 4:44:22 PM UTC-5 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I would consider Ted Neugent's wheels:
>> http://www.neugentcycling.com/Alloy-Wheels.html
>>
>> The TwoX technology (16 drive side spokes, 8 non-drive side spokes so you
>> can have equal tension of spokes on both sides, with washers on the
>> non-drive side so you can tension them safely without the rim cracking)
>> makes a lot of sense to me. I've ordered a set and will report back when I
>> get some real riding experience. I build my own wheels and they're reliable
>> but his approach makes sense and he has the scale to get the right parts
>> drilled correctly in this case, and I can't build anything  as light.
>>
>> On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 1:18:22 PM UTC-8 andyree...@gmail.com
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hey there group,
>>>
>>> As far as pre-built, lightweight alloy wheelsets are concerned, I'm
>>> currently looking at 3:
>>> Pacenti brevet, Ritchey Zeta II classic, and Hunt but leaning towards
>>> the last 2. I've had experience with Ritchey's and really enjoyed them and
>>> their clever J-bend design, but Hunt's are better stocked. Does anyone have
>>> positive experience with Hunt wheels or do they lack longevity?
>>>
>>> I'd also be inclined to hear about your custom-built lightweight
>>> wheelset experiences. My goal weight is something in the 1600g range w/
>>> skewers.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>> Andrew
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Lightweight wheels question: J bend vs straight pull (Ritchey vs Hunt)

[Will Boericke]

Not a huge fan of the 16/8 idea for this reason.  Seems like a solution in
search of a problem.



On Tue, Jan 17, 2023 at 10:20 AM Piaw Na(藍俊彪)  wrote:

> The drive side still has higher tension, and the way to get durable wheels
> is to get high tension without cracking the rim. The washers spread the
> load of the spoke nipple over a wider area and prevents the rim from
> cracking. With lowish spoke count wheels and dished wheels, you can easily
> exceed the rim's cracking threshold.
>
> On Tue, Jan 17, 2023 at 4:27 AM lconley  wrote:
>
>> So if the spoke tension is equal on both sides, why would one side need
>> washers? Makes no sense to me.
>>
>> Laing
>>
>> On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 4:44:22 PM UTC-5 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> I would consider Ted Neugent's wheels:
>>> http://www.neugentcycling.com/Alloy-Wheels.html
>>>
>>> The TwoX technology (16 drive side spokes, 8 non-drive side spokes so
>>> you can have equal tension of spokes on both sides, with washers on the
>>> non-drive side so you can tension them safely without the rim cracking)
>>> makes a lot of sense to me. I've ordered a set and will report back when I
>>> get some real riding experience. I build my own wheels and they're reliable
>>> but his approach makes sense and he has the scale to get the right parts
>>> drilled correctly in this case, and I can't build anything  as light.
>>>
>>> On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 1:18:22 PM UTC-8 andyree...@gmail.com
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Hey there group,

 As far as pre-built, lightweight alloy wheelsets are concerned, I'm
 currently looking at 3:
 Pacenti brevet, Ritchey Zeta II classic, and Hunt but leaning towards
 the last 2. I've had experience with Ritchey's and really enjoyed them and
 their clever J-bend design, but Hunt's are better stocked. Does anyone have
 positive experience with Hunt wheels or do they lack longevity?

 I'd also be inclined to hear about your custom-built lightweight
 wheelset experiences. My goal weight is something in the 1600g range w/
 skewers.

 Cheers,
 Andrew

>>> --
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Re: [RBW] Re: Lightweight wheels question: J bend vs straight pull (Ritchey vs Hunt)

[Bill Lindsay]

I wonder when we'll see a new Gus Boots Willsen build with a 16/8 rear 
wheel?  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 7:59:15 AM UTC-8 wboe...@gmail.com wrote:

> Not a huge fan of the 16/8 idea for this reason.  Seems like a solution in 
> search of a problem.
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jan 17, 2023 at 10:20 AM Piaw Na(藍俊彪)  wrote:
>
>> The drive side still has higher tension, and the way to get durable 
>> wheels is to get high tension without cracking the rim. The washers spread 
>> the load of the spoke nipple over a wider area and prevents the rim from 
>> cracking. With lowish spoke count wheels and dished wheels, you can easily 
>> exceed the rim's cracking threshold.
>>
>> On Tue, Jan 17, 2023 at 4:27 AM lconley  wrote:
>>
>>> So if the spoke tension is equal on both sides, why would one side need 
>>> washers? Makes no sense to me.
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>> On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 4:44:22 PM UTC-5 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 I would consider Ted Neugent's wheels: 
 http://www.neugentcycling.com/Alloy-Wheels.html

 The TwoX technology (16 drive side spokes, 8 non-drive side spokes so 
 you can have equal tension of spokes on both sides, with washers on the 
 non-drive side so you can tension them safely without the rim cracking) 
 makes a lot of sense to me. I've ordered a set and will report back when I 
 get some real riding experience. I build my own wheels and they're 
 reliable 
 but his approach makes sense and he has the scale to get the right parts 
 drilled correctly in this case, and I can't build anything  as light.

 On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 1:18:22 PM UTC-8 andyree...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Hey there group,  
>
> As far as pre-built, lightweight alloy wheelsets are concerned, I'm 
> currently looking at 3: 
> Pacenti brevet, Ritchey Zeta II classic, and Hunt but leaning towards 
> the last 2. I've had experience with Ritchey's and really enjoyed them 
> and 
> their clever J-bend design, but Hunt's are better stocked. Does anyone 
> have 
> positive experience with Hunt wheels or do they lack longevity? 
>
> I'd also be inclined to hear about your custom-built lightweight 
> wheelset experiences. My goal weight is something in the 1600g range w/ 
> skewers.  
>
> Cheers, 
> Andrew
>
 -- 
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
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>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: bottom bracket toubleshooting trivia

['Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch]

 Respondents, I'm grateful for all your input/suggestions. Once again, I've 
learned through your experiences.
John, read your suggestion about possibility of screw retaining BB cable guide 
being too long and interfering with BB and immediately grabbed my screw driver 
to check it. Unfortunately (or fortunately), that's not source of increased BB 
spindle rotation resistance I described in my original post. Given the location 
of screw in BB shell and shape of BB itself in same location, the screw does 
not touch the BB when fully seated. Great suggestion, though!
Mr. Ray, I think this model BB came onto the market beginning in the mid 90's, 
so it is likely as old as you note. If the grease viscosity changed over time, 
I think spindle spin resistance would feel same with BB uninstalled vs 
installed. However, I do buy into your suggestions "just attach cranks and 
ride" and "the spindle should spin smoothly after breaking in." Thanks for the 
reassuring "don't worry" advice.
Garth, my issue isn't bits coming loose. I'm going to stick with factory torque 
specs; and if something comes loose, I'll throw (or at least consider) the 
kitchen sink at it.
George, thanks for the tips about how to address loose bits.
Nick, a quick search on Google machine for pros/cons to chase and face of new 
frames reveals entrenched camps both for and against. Both camps make sound 
arguments, depending on the BB type and other factors. I'm going to avoid the 
DEEP rabbit hole my comments/thoughts for or against would take us. I welcome 
yours, though. For now, since my BB is a cartridge-type and threading-in DS and 
NDS by hand felt way smooth, I'm going to forgo chase and face steps.
Andy, I appreciate you sharing the personal metrics you've acquired having 
installed many BBs. It's that knowledge base I wanted to tap into. I'm inclined 
to agree with your comment "the [BB] bearings (of units that become legend like 
yours) are ... superior enough in precision that you can feel some resistance 
prior to what break in will produce. They ought to be fine." Regarding your 
sentence "No grinding or destructive feeling load felt, I built enough box 
bikes to know how a cruddy BB feels by the intermittence of resistance or that 
grinding feeling in the 360° of rotation," that's insightful. While I do feel 
an increased resistance to spinning the spindle by hand after the BB is 
installed, there is no "grinding or destructive feel" to the 360 spindle 
rotation, and it is perfectly smooth, just increased resistance.
While my wrenching skills are deft (IMHO), I lack the metrics one gains through 
voluminous installations of various bits. BUT, I'm not scared to ask those that 
do have experiences, so thanks, all!

Hope everyone's 2023 is off to a good start...
Scott



On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 05:39:16 AM MST, ascpgh  
wrote:  
 
 Your NOS BBs have really nice high quality bearings. I would imagine that the 
tolerances related to a mild load on those bearings that accumulate from the 
bearings themselves in the cylinder, the cartridge installation cups' 
receptacle ends, their threading and the frame's BB threading when all torqued 
to spec add up enough to produce some perceived interference to silk smooth 
finger rotation. 
BBs take a pretty big load in use and the bearings (of units that become legend 
like yours) are not particularly delicate but superior enough in precision that 
you can  feel some resistance prior to what break in will produce. They ought 
to be fine. 
When I replaced the Phil Wood BB in my Rambouillet with an SKF for a shorter 
spindle when going from triple to wide double I was stunned by the drag the 
SKF's seal system put on finger rotation and installed crank free rotation 
after spinning them. Not because of a single outer rubber grommet but the 
labyrinths of each end and lubricant inside. No grinding or destructive feeling 
load felt, I built enough box bikes to know how a cruddy BB feels by the 
intermittence of resistance or that grinding feeling in the 360° of rotation. 
By free tune up time after the sale some of the most mundane no-brand BBs were 
running smoothly and kept doing their job for a reasonable if not notable 
duration given how primitive and cheap they appeared to be.
Hubs act the same way to finger rotation or wheel free spinning after 
installation. I came to dislike Shimano Parallax architecture hubs because of 
their rubber cone seals, connected to axle nut, engaged and rotated in a large 
diameter but thin groove on the end of he hub body. Lots of drag on top of the 
tactile sense that they were easily overcome by dust, water or mud.
Andy CheathamPittsbugrh

On Sunday, January 15, 2023 at 1:36:11 PM UTC-5 Scott wrote:

Hey, Bunch:
Pinging the group's knowledge for input/feedback on an issue I'm having with an 
install of a new cartridge style BB in a new frame.
I'm building a new Atlantis and Gus. I installed a new BB (Shimano XTR UN91) in 
Atlantis and torqued to spec.

Re: [RBW] Re: Lightweight wheels question: J bend vs straight pull (Ritchey vs Hunt)

[藍俊彪]

If you feel that your wheels are already plenty strong and durable enough,
sure. But what I've discovered over the years is that hubs have gotten
their wR smaller and smaller, which reduces the bracing angle and increases
the difference in tension between drive and non-drive side wheels.

https://blog.piaw.net/2009/07/hubs.html

Back in 2009 when I did the above measurements, the Campy Record was the
hub with the smallest wR at 15.2mm, which makes the wheel much weaker ---
you pretty much needed an offset rim to have any kind of durability with
those hubs. At this point, with the industry having moved to 11-12 speed
wheels, wR has gotten worse. At this point, most hubs have less than 16mm
wR. Of course you can also make the wL smaller by introducing disc brake
rotor mounts on the non-drive side but that really doesn't solve the
problem of weaker wheels.

If you're still living with 6 speed hubs with wR of 22mm or less, I'd agree
with  you. But that's not the world I live in. So for me, anything that
makes the wheel stronger is a feature, not a bug.

On Tue, Jan 17, 2023 at 7:59 AM Will Boericke  wrote:

> Not a huge fan of the 16/8 idea for this reason.  Seems like a solution in
> search of a problem.
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jan 17, 2023 at 10:20 AM Piaw Na(藍俊彪)  wrote:
>
>> The drive side still has higher tension, and the way to get durable
>> wheels is to get high tension without cracking the rim. The washers spread
>> the load of the spoke nipple over a wider area and prevents the rim from
>> cracking. With lowish spoke count wheels and dished wheels, you can easily
>> exceed the rim's cracking threshold.
>>
>> On Tue, Jan 17, 2023 at 4:27 AM lconley  wrote:
>>
>>> So if the spoke tension is equal on both sides, why would one side need
>>> washers? Makes no sense to me.
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>> On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 4:44:22 PM UTC-5 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 I would consider Ted Neugent's wheels:
 http://www.neugentcycling.com/Alloy-Wheels.html

 The TwoX technology (16 drive side spokes, 8 non-drive side spokes so
 you can have equal tension of spokes on both sides, with washers on the
 non-drive side so you can tension them safely without the rim cracking)
 makes a lot of sense to me. I've ordered a set and will report back when I
 get some real riding experience. I build my own wheels and they're reliable
 but his approach makes sense and he has the scale to get the right parts
 drilled correctly in this case, and I can't build anything  as light.

 On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 1:18:22 PM UTC-8 andyree...@gmail.com
 wrote:

> Hey there group,
>
> As far as pre-built, lightweight alloy wheelsets are concerned, I'm
> currently looking at 3:
> Pacenti brevet, Ritchey Zeta II classic, and Hunt but leaning towards
> the last 2. I've had experience with Ritchey's and really enjoyed them and
> their clever J-bend design, but Hunt's are better stocked. Does anyone 
> have
> positive experience with Hunt wheels or do they lack longevity?
>
> I'd also be inclined to hear about your custom-built lightweight
> wheelset experiences. My goal weight is something in the 1600g range w/
> skewers.
>
> Cheers,
> Andrew
>
 --
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[RBW] FS: Crust Romanceur Canti 58cm (Large)

[Hoch in ut]

Almost new Crust Romanceur in 58cm size (large). I bought the frame new 
over last summer and built it up. But it only has 30 miles on it, as it’s 
one of (too?) many bikes I have. 

It’s a great riding bike but I will be moving and need to cut down the 
collection. 

Build specs (some components are from the parts bin. All in great working 
shape):
Paul brake levers and Canti brakes(cables left long for different 
handlebars). 
Simplex shifters
Campagnolo Record (front) and Mirage (rear)
Velo Orange cranks (46/30)
11/30 rear cassette
Velo Orange Grand Cru seat post
Velocity wheels (Shimano front and Ambrisio rear hubs)
Currently has Soma 650b x 38 tires. I will also include Rene Herse 650b x 
2.2” tires (Untanum Ridge, almost new). 
Soma front rack. 
Nitto Bullmoose bar

I am 5’11” with 33.5” PBH. The saddle height is 75cm. 

Note: does not come with pedals, cage, or saddle. 

There is a scratch on the headtube. Before the rack, I had a front bag 
which scratched up the paint.

Asking $2k plus shipping. 

Venmo, Zelle, or cashiers check only please.

Pictures below. 
https://ibb.co/album/TY8QDd

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lightweight wheels question: J bend vs straight pull (Ritchey vs Hunt)

[lconley]

So if the drive side spokes have higher tension, why are the washers put on 
the non-drive side spokes? Again, makes no sense to me.

Laing

On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 10:20:40 AM UTC-5 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
The drive side still has higher tension, and the way to get durable wheels 
is to get high tension without cracking the rim. The washers spread the 
load of the spoke nipple over a wider area and prevents the rim from 
cracking. With lowish spoke count wheels and dished wheels, you can easily 
exceed the rim's cracking threshold.

On Tue, Jan 17, 2023 at 4:27 AM lconley  wrote:
So if the spoke tension is equal on both sides, why would one side need 
washers? Makes no sense to me.

Laing

On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 4:44:22 PM UTC-5 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
I would consider Ted Neugent's wheels: 
http://www.neugentcycling.com/Alloy-Wheels.html

The TwoX technology (16 drive side spokes, 8 non-drive side spokes so you 
can have equal tension of spokes on both sides, with washers on the 
non-drive side so you can tension them safely without the rim cracking) 
makes a lot of sense to me. I've ordered a set and will report back when I 
get some real riding experience. I build my own wheels and they're reliable 
but his approach makes sense and he has the scale to get the right parts 
drilled correctly in this case, and I can't build anything  as light.

On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 1:18:22 PM UTC-8 andyree...@gmail.com wrote:
Hey there group,  

As far as pre-built, lightweight alloy wheelsets are concerned, I'm 
currently looking at 3: 
Pacenti brevet, Ritchey Zeta II classic, and Hunt but leaning towards the 
last 2. I've had experience with Ritchey's and really enjoyed them and 
their clever J-bend design, but Hunt's are better stocked. Does anyone have 
positive experience with Hunt wheels or do they lack longevity? 

I'd also be inclined to hear about your custom-built lightweight wheelset 
experiences. My goal weight is something in the 1600g range w/ skewers.  

Cheers, 
Andrew

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.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lightweight wheels question: J bend vs straight pull (Ritchey vs Hunt)

[Andrew Turner]

Washers are put on the drive-side rear spokes. 

Andrew

On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 12:16:43 PM UTC-6 lconley wrote:

> So if the drive side spokes have higher tension, why are the washers put 
> on the non-drive side spokes? Again, makes no sense to me.
>
> Laing
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 10:20:40 AM UTC-5 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
> The drive side still has higher tension, and the way to get durable wheels 
> is to get high tension without cracking the rim. The washers spread the 
> load of the spoke nipple over a wider area and prevents the rim from 
> cracking. With lowish spoke count wheels and dished wheels, you can easily 
> exceed the rim's cracking threshold.
>
> On Tue, Jan 17, 2023 at 4:27 AM lconley  wrote:
> So if the spoke tension is equal on both sides, why would one side need 
> washers? Makes no sense to me.
>
> Laing
>
> On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 4:44:22 PM UTC-5 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
> I would consider Ted Neugent's wheels: 
> http://www.neugentcycling.com/Alloy-Wheels.html
>
> The TwoX technology (16 drive side spokes, 8 non-drive side spokes so you 
> can have equal tension of spokes on both sides, with washers on the 
> non-drive side so you can tension them safely without the rim cracking) 
> makes a lot of sense to me. I've ordered a set and will report back when I 
> get some real riding experience. I build my own wheels and they're reliable 
> but his approach makes sense and he has the scale to get the right parts 
> drilled correctly in this case, and I can't build anything  as light.
>
> On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 1:18:22 PM UTC-8 andyree...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
> Hey there group,  
>
> As far as pre-built, lightweight alloy wheelsets are concerned, I'm 
> currently looking at 3: 
> Pacenti brevet, Ritchey Zeta II classic, and Hunt but leaning towards the 
> last 2. I've had experience with Ritchey's and really enjoyed them and 
> their clever J-bend design, but Hunt's are better stocked. Does anyone have 
> positive experience with Hunt wheels or do they lack longevity? 
>
> I'd also be inclined to hear about your custom-built lightweight wheelset 
> experiences. My goal weight is something in the 1600g range w/ skewers.  
>
> Cheers, 
> Andrew
>
> -- 
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>  
> 
> .
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lightweight wheels question: J bend vs straight pull (Ritchey vs Hunt)

[藍俊彪]

Andrew is correct. I made a mistake --- the washers are on the drive side,
not the non-drive side.

On Tue, Jan 17, 2023 at 10:20 AM Andrew Turner 
wrote:

> Washers are put on the drive-side rear spokes.
>
> Andrew
>
> On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 12:16:43 PM UTC-6 lconley wrote:
>
>> So if the drive side spokes have higher tension, why are the washers put
>> on the non-drive side spokes? Again, makes no sense to me.
>>
>> Laing
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 10:20:40 AM UTC-5 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
>> The drive side still has higher tension, and the way to get durable
>> wheels is to get high tension without cracking the rim. The washers spread
>> the load of the spoke nipple over a wider area and prevents the rim from
>> cracking. With lowish spoke count wheels and dished wheels, you can easily
>> exceed the rim's cracking threshold.
>>
>> On Tue, Jan 17, 2023 at 4:27 AM lconley  wrote:
>> So if the spoke tension is equal on both sides, why would one side need
>> washers? Makes no sense to me.
>>
>> Laing
>>
>> On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 4:44:22 PM UTC-5 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
>> I would consider Ted Neugent's wheels:
>> http://www.neugentcycling.com/Alloy-Wheels.html
>>
>> The TwoX technology (16 drive side spokes, 8 non-drive side spokes so you
>> can have equal tension of spokes on both sides, with washers on the
>> non-drive side so you can tension them safely without the rim cracking)
>> makes a lot of sense to me. I've ordered a set and will report back when I
>> get some real riding experience. I build my own wheels and they're reliable
>> but his approach makes sense and he has the scale to get the right parts
>> drilled correctly in this case, and I can't build anything  as light.
>>
>> On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 1:18:22 PM UTC-8 andyree...@gmail.com
>> wrote:
>> Hey there group,
>>
>> As far as pre-built, lightweight alloy wheelsets are concerned, I'm
>> currently looking at 3:
>> Pacenti brevet, Ritchey Zeta II classic, and Hunt but leaning towards the
>> last 2. I've had experience with Ritchey's and really enjoyed them and
>> their clever J-bend design, but Hunt's are better stocked. Does anyone have
>> positive experience with Hunt wheels or do they lack longevity?
>>
>> I'd also be inclined to hear about your custom-built lightweight wheelset
>> experiences. My goal weight is something in the 1600g range w/ skewers.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Andrew
>>
>> --
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>> Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/ZbYSPOltKqI/unsubscribe
>> .
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>> 
>> .
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Lightweight wheels question: J bend vs straight pull (Ritchey vs Hunt)

[Andrew Turner]

John at Neugent Cycles strikes me as "the real deal" with the right 
connections and knowledge of modern wheel-building practices. Plus I could 
be wrong but I think he's building these wheels himself, regardless they're 
hand-built here stateside. (He let me mail some SimWorks' raw brass nipples 
to use for the wheel build to his home address). 

I'm still rocking 8 speed cassettes so yes, it's a bummer 11 speed systems 
screw with the structural integrity of the bicycle wheel. But frankly, I'm 
not looking for these to last me 20 years. I'm a very light rider, on a 
budget, ride 90% pavement, and I wanna lose 1.5lbs off my wheels if I can! 

Bill made a joke about seeing these wheels on a Gus and I can do ya one 
better: Neugent offers a carbon tubular wheelset at a sweltering 1000g that 
I think would pair nicely with a Gus if anyone's looking to get up Mt. 
Diablo with some pep! 

- Andrew, who jokes aside is a little curious about those tubular wheels... 


On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 12:27:52 PM UTC-6 pi...@gmail.com wrote:

> Andrew is correct. I made a mistake --- the washers are on the drive side, 
> not the non-drive side.
>
> On Tue, Jan 17, 2023 at 10:20 AM Andrew Turner  
> wrote:
>
>> Washers are put on the drive-side rear spokes. 
>>
>> Andrew
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 12:16:43 PM UTC-6 lconley wrote:
>>
>>> So if the drive side spokes have higher tension, why are the washers put 
>>> on the non-drive side spokes? Again, makes no sense to me.
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 10:20:40 AM UTC-5 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
>>> The drive side still has higher tension, and the way to get durable 
>>> wheels is to get high tension without cracking the rim. The washers spread 
>>> the load of the spoke nipple over a wider area and prevents the rim from 
>>> cracking. With lowish spoke count wheels and dished wheels, you can easily 
>>> exceed the rim's cracking threshold.
>>>
>>> On Tue, Jan 17, 2023 at 4:27 AM lconley  wrote:
>>> So if the spoke tension is equal on both sides, why would one side need 
>>> washers? Makes no sense to me.
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>> On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 4:44:22 PM UTC-5 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
>>> I would consider Ted Neugent's wheels: 
>>> http://www.neugentcycling.com/Alloy-Wheels.html
>>>
>>> The TwoX technology (16 drive side spokes, 8 non-drive side spokes so 
>>> you can have equal tension of spokes on both sides, with washers on the 
>>> non-drive side so you can tension them safely without the rim cracking) 
>>> makes a lot of sense to me. I've ordered a set and will report back when I 
>>> get some real riding experience. I build my own wheels and they're reliable 
>>> but his approach makes sense and he has the scale to get the right parts 
>>> drilled correctly in this case, and I can't build anything  as light.
>>>
>>> On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 1:18:22 PM UTC-8 andyree...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>> Hey there group,  
>>>
>>> As far as pre-built, lightweight alloy wheelsets are concerned, I'm 
>>> currently looking at 3: 
>>> Pacenti brevet, Ritchey Zeta II classic, and Hunt but leaning towards 
>>> the last 2. I've had experience with Ritchey's and really enjoyed them and 
>>> their clever J-bend design, but Hunt's are better stocked. Does anyone have 
>>> positive experience with Hunt wheels or do they lack longevity? 
>>>
>>> I'd also be inclined to hear about your custom-built lightweight 
>>> wheelset experiences. My goal weight is something in the 1600g range w/ 
>>> skewers.  
>>>
>>> Cheers, 
>>> Andrew
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the 
>>> Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this topic, visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/ZbYSPOltKqI/unsubscribe
>>> .
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to 
>>> rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/f5654f86-76e0-4646-a346-7eb20511d895n%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: MUSA shorts, size small, multiple colors

[s...@austin.utexas.edu]

Update:

All shorts have been sold. 

Thanks,
Sean

On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 5:14:06 PM UTC-6 s...@austin.utexas.edu 
wrote:

> Hey folks,
>
> I've got 5 pairs of MUSA shorts up for sale (size small). Shorts are all 
> in good shape with all buttons intact. A couple of pairs have a somewhat 
> stretched belt, but waist elastic is all intact as are belt buckles. 
>
> Asking $40 per pair (shipped)
> All 5 for $150 (shipped)
>
> Can send more close up pics if needed. 
>
> Sean
> Austin, TX[image: MUSA 1.jpg][image: MUSA 2.jpg]
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lightweight wheels question: J bend vs straight pull (Ritchey vs Hunt)

[Will Boericke]

Totally agree with John's wheels.  If I didn't like building wheels so 
much, I'd buy his for sure.

As far as spoke tension imbalance, I'll reserve judgement until I have a 
problem.  Currently, I have 8 bikes with 9+ speed freehubs.  I've never had 
a spoke tension related problem with any, including wheels that I have 
abused unduly (I really shouldn't ride singletrack with 24/28 wheels, 
but).  In my sample size of 8, spoke tension is not an issue.

Will

On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 2:15:21 PM UTC-5 Andrew Turner wrote:

> John at Neugent Cycles strikes me as "the real deal" with the right 
> connections and knowledge of modern wheel-building practices. Plus I could 
> be wrong but I think he's building these wheels himself, regardless they're 
> hand-built here stateside. (He let me mail some SimWorks' raw brass nipples 
> to use for the wheel build to his home address). 
>
> I'm still rocking 8 speed cassettes so yes, it's a bummer 11 speed systems 
> screw with the structural integrity of the bicycle wheel. But frankly, I'm 
> not looking for these to last me 20 years. I'm a very light rider, on a 
> budget, ride 90% pavement, and I wanna lose 1.5lbs off my wheels if I can! 
>
> Bill made a joke about seeing these wheels on a Gus and I can do ya one 
> better: Neugent offers a carbon tubular wheelset at a sweltering 1000g that 
> I think would pair nicely with a Gus if anyone's looking to get up Mt. 
> Diablo with some pep! 
>
> - Andrew, who jokes aside is a little curious about those tubular 
> wheels... 
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 12:27:52 PM UTC-6 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Andrew is correct. I made a mistake --- the washers are on the drive 
>> side, not the non-drive side.
>>
>> On Tue, Jan 17, 2023 at 10:20 AM Andrew Turner  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Washers are put on the drive-side rear spokes. 
>>>
>>> Andrew
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 12:16:43 PM UTC-6 lconley wrote:
>>>
 So if the drive side spokes have higher tension, why are the washers 
 put on the non-drive side spokes? Again, makes no sense to me.

 Laing


 On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 10:20:40 AM UTC-5 pi...@gmail.com 
 wrote:
 The drive side still has higher tension, and the way to get durable 
 wheels is to get high tension without cracking the rim. The washers spread 
 the load of the spoke nipple over a wider area and prevents the rim from 
 cracking. With lowish spoke count wheels and dished wheels, you can easily 
 exceed the rim's cracking threshold.

 On Tue, Jan 17, 2023 at 4:27 AM lconley  wrote:
 So if the spoke tension is equal on both sides, why would one side need 
 washers? Makes no sense to me.

 Laing

 On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 4:44:22 PM UTC-5 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
 I would consider Ted Neugent's wheels: 
 http://www.neugentcycling.com/Alloy-Wheels.html

 The TwoX technology (16 drive side spokes, 8 non-drive side spokes so 
 you can have equal tension of spokes on both sides, with washers on the 
 non-drive side so you can tension them safely without the rim cracking) 
 makes a lot of sense to me. I've ordered a set and will report back when I 
 get some real riding experience. I build my own wheels and they're 
 reliable 
 but his approach makes sense and he has the scale to get the right parts 
 drilled correctly in this case, and I can't build anything  as light.

 On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 1:18:22 PM UTC-8 andyree...@gmail.com 
 wrote:
 Hey there group,  

 As far as pre-built, lightweight alloy wheelsets are concerned, I'm 
 currently looking at 3: 
 Pacenti brevet, Ritchey Zeta II classic, and Hunt but leaning towards 
 the last 2. I've had experience with Ritchey's and really enjoyed them and 
 their clever J-bend design, but Hunt's are better stocked. Does anyone 
 have 
 positive experience with Hunt wheels or do they lack longevity? 

 I'd also be inclined to hear about your custom-built lightweight 
 wheelset experiences. My goal weight is something in the 1600g range w/ 
 skewers.  

 Cheers, 
 Andrew

 -- 
 You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the 
 Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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 https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/ZbYSPOltKqI/unsubscribe
 .
 To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to 
 rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
 To view this discussion on the web visit 
 https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/f5654f86-76e0-4646-a346-7eb20511d895n%40googlegroups.com
  
 
 .

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lightweight wheels question: J bend vs straight pull (Ritchey vs Hunt)

[藍俊彪]

Spoke tension wasn't an issue until hubs with wR went down to ridiculous
level. On one of my recent builds I discovered that the non-drive side was
definitely too loose if I tensioned the drive side to Velocity's specs. So
I made the decision to just tension the spokes to beyond velocity's specs
for maximum tension and live with a shortened rim life. That was not a
trade off I needed to do in the past.

On Tue, Jan 17, 2023 at 3:16 PM Will Boericke  wrote:

> Totally agree with John's wheels.  If I didn't like building wheels so
> much, I'd buy his for sure.
>
> As far as spoke tension imbalance, I'll reserve judgement until I have a
> problem.  Currently, I have 8 bikes with 9+ speed freehubs.  I've never had
> a spoke tension related problem with any, including wheels that I have
> abused unduly (I really shouldn't ride singletrack with 24/28 wheels,
> but).  In my sample size of 8, spoke tension is not an issue.
>
> Will
>
> On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 2:15:21 PM UTC-5 Andrew Turner wrote:
>
>> John at Neugent Cycles strikes me as "the real deal" with the right
>> connections and knowledge of modern wheel-building practices. Plus I could
>> be wrong but I think he's building these wheels himself, regardless they're
>> hand-built here stateside. (He let me mail some SimWorks' raw brass nipples
>> to use for the wheel build to his home address).
>>
>> I'm still rocking 8 speed cassettes so yes, it's a bummer 11 speed
>> systems screw with the structural integrity of the bicycle wheel. But
>> frankly, I'm not looking for these to last me 20 years. I'm a very light
>> rider, on a budget, ride 90% pavement, and I wanna lose 1.5lbs off my
>> wheels if I can!
>>
>> Bill made a joke about seeing these wheels on a Gus and I can do ya one
>> better: Neugent offers a carbon tubular wheelset at a sweltering 1000g that
>> I think would pair nicely with a Gus if anyone's looking to get up Mt.
>> Diablo with some pep!
>>
>> - Andrew, who jokes aside is a little curious about those tubular
>> wheels...
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 12:27:52 PM UTC-6 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Andrew is correct. I made a mistake --- the washers are on the drive
>>> side, not the non-drive side.
>>>
>>> On Tue, Jan 17, 2023 at 10:20 AM Andrew Turner 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Washers are put on the drive-side rear spokes.

 Andrew

 On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 12:16:43 PM UTC-6 lconley wrote:

> So if the drive side spokes have higher tension, why are the washers
> put on the non-drive side spokes? Again, makes no sense to me.
>
> Laing
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 10:20:40 AM UTC-5 pi...@gmail.com
> wrote:
> The drive side still has higher tension, and the way to get durable
> wheels is to get high tension without cracking the rim. The washers spread
> the load of the spoke nipple over a wider area and prevents the rim from
> cracking. With lowish spoke count wheels and dished wheels, you can easily
> exceed the rim's cracking threshold.
>
> On Tue, Jan 17, 2023 at 4:27 AM lconley  wrote:
> So if the spoke tension is equal on both sides, why would one side
> need washers? Makes no sense to me.
>
> Laing
>
> On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 4:44:22 PM UTC-5 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
> I would consider Ted Neugent's wheels:
> http://www.neugentcycling.com/Alloy-Wheels.html
>
> The TwoX technology (16 drive side spokes, 8 non-drive side spokes so
> you can have equal tension of spokes on both sides, with washers on the
> non-drive side so you can tension them safely without the rim cracking)
> makes a lot of sense to me. I've ordered a set and will report back when I
> get some real riding experience. I build my own wheels and they're 
> reliable
> but his approach makes sense and he has the scale to get the right parts
> drilled correctly in this case, and I can't build anything  as light.
>
> On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 1:18:22 PM UTC-8 andyree...@gmail.com
> wrote:
> Hey there group,
>
> As far as pre-built, lightweight alloy wheelsets are concerned, I'm
> currently looking at 3:
> Pacenti brevet, Ritchey Zeta II classic, and Hunt but leaning towards
> the last 2. I've had experience with Ritchey's and really enjoyed them and
> their clever J-bend design, but Hunt's are better stocked. Does anyone 
> have
> positive experience with Hunt wheels or do they lack longevity?
>
> I'd also be inclined to hear about your custom-built lightweight
> wheelset experiences. My goal weight is something in the 1600g range w/
> skewers.
>
> Cheers,
> Andrew
>
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[RBW] WTB: seatpost Nitto S83 26.8 300mm

['Scott' via RBW Owners Bunch]

If anyone has a Nitto S83 in 26.8 x 300mm in good to better condition, 
please message me off list.

Or if someone has a lead as to where to purchase one new, that'd be great, 
too. I've tried a number of different vendors but all were out of stock.

Thanks,

Scott

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[RBW] Re: WTB: seatpost Nitto S83 26.8 300mm

[Ryan Frahm]

Rivendell has the 350mm. Could always cut it if needed!

On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 4:35:58 PM UTC-8 Scott wrote:

> If anyone has a Nitto S83 in 26.8 x 300mm in good to better condition, 
> please message me off list.
>
> Or if someone has a lead as to where to purchase one new, that'd be great, 
> too. I've tried a number of different vendors but all were out of stock.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scott
>

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[RBW] Re: Exploration: Make your own pump peg

[Andrew Turner]

I'm a big proponent of using the rear quick release as the peg and stuffing 
it between the seat-stay and seat-tube. Much cleaner. I add some elastic 
paracord as added security down near the QR. 

On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 10:12:26 PM UTC-6 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:

> I own a Clem Smith Jr. "L" bicycle.
>
> Here is my version of my frame pump peg. The Topeak 49-54 cm frame pump is 
> secured with a velcro strap to the seat tube. Excuse the wax residue on the 
> clamp. 
>
> Kim Hetzel
> Yelm, WA.[image: 20221231_151825 (2).jpg]
>
> On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 7:05:38 PM UTC-8 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I read Will's post about how to make your own pump peg on the Blug a long 
>> while back: 
>>
>> https://rivbike.tumblr.com/post/185595499869/how-to-make-your-own-pump-pegs
>>
>> You take a p-clamp, some spacers and modify a Nitto strut and you've got 
>> a pump peg somewhere you might not have had one before. Will likes to put 
>> his in the rear triangle and you'll notice them mounted this way on a lot 
>> of his bikes.  
>>
>> [image: tumblr_inline_pt3zzjpbXk1qdvnvk_500.jpg]
>> [image: tumblr_inline_pt401jwzC21qdvnvk_500.jpg]
>>
>> This is great, I love it, cool hack! But I've always wanted for a version 
>> that doesn't require tracking down and destroying a Nitto strut. Riv HQ is 
>> probably awash in Nitto struts and they have em poking out of the coffee 
>> cans on everyone's desk all over the place. But not so for me, Nitto struts 
>> are precious few in my shed. 
>>
>> I think I came up with the right shape and this weekend I picked up an 
>> electrical ring terminal in the 10-12 size, yellow sleeve. 
>>
>> [image: Screen Shot 2023-01-17 at 9.56.39 PM.png][image: Screen Shot 
>> 2023-01-17 at 9.56.44 PM.png]
>>
>> Holding the ring end with one pair of pliers you can easily remove the 
>> yellow sleeve with a second pair of pliers. A pack of 15 is $4.50. If your 
>> local hardware store has a bulk/loose hardware section you can get one for 
>> around 55¢ (at least I did). 
>>
>> Paired with a 3/8" insulated cable clamp (2 for $2.20), a few serrated 
>> brake washers, an M5 bolt and a nylock nut I had a fashioned a pump peg. 
>> Didn't have to cut or shape any metal or destroy any high-end Japanese rack 
>> struts. 
>>
>> [image: IMG_4875.JPG]
>>
>> [image: IMG_4874.JPG]
>>
>> I have yet to SUPER TEST this out but wanted to share all the same. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Exploration: Make your own pump peg

[Wesley]

This is cool, Eric - but how is it better than using the pump peg that was 
so thoughtfully brazed onto your frame?
-Wes

On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 7:05:38 PM UTC-8 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> I read Will's post about how to make your own pump peg on the Blug a long 
> while back: 
> https://rivbike.tumblr.com/post/185595499869/how-to-make-your-own-pump-pegs
>
> You take a p-clamp, some spacers and modify a Nitto strut and you've got a 
> pump peg somewhere you might not have had one before. Will likes to put his 
> in the rear triangle and you'll notice them mounted this way on a lot of 
> his bikes.  
>
> [image: tumblr_inline_pt3zzjpbXk1qdvnvk_500.jpg]
> [image: tumblr_inline_pt401jwzC21qdvnvk_500.jpg]
>
> This is great, I love it, cool hack! But I've always wanted for a version 
> that doesn't require tracking down and destroying a Nitto strut. Riv HQ is 
> probably awash in Nitto struts and they have em poking out of the coffee 
> cans on everyone's desk all over the place. But not so for me, Nitto struts 
> are precious few in my shed. 
>
> I think I came up with the right shape and this weekend I picked up an 
> electrical ring terminal in the 10-12 size, yellow sleeve. 
>
> [image: Screen Shot 2023-01-17 at 9.56.39 PM.png][image: Screen Shot 
> 2023-01-17 at 9.56.44 PM.png]
>
> Holding the ring end with one pair of pliers you can easily remove the 
> yellow sleeve with a second pair of pliers. A pack of 15 is $4.50. If your 
> local hardware store has a bulk/loose hardware section you can get one for 
> around 55¢ (at least I did). 
>
> Paired with a 3/8" insulated cable clamp (2 for $2.20), a few serrated 
> brake washers, an M5 bolt and a nylock nut I had a fashioned a pump peg. 
> Didn't have to cut or shape any metal or destroy any high-end Japanese rack 
> struts. 
>
> [image: IMG_4875.JPG]
>
> [image: IMG_4874.JPG]
>
> I have yet to SUPER TEST this out but wanted to share all the same. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Exploration: Make your own pump peg

[Keith Paugh]

Ingenious solutions all around.
Full marks!
k.

On Tue, Jan 17, 2023 at 9:48 PM Wesley  wrote:

> This is cool, Eric - but how is it better than using the pump peg that was
> so thoughtfully brazed onto your frame?
> -Wes
>
> On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 7:05:38 PM UTC-8 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I read Will's post about how to make your own pump peg on the Blug a long
>> while back:
>>
>> https://rivbike.tumblr.com/post/185595499869/how-to-make-your-own-pump-pegs
>>
>> You take a p-clamp, some spacers and modify a Nitto strut and you've got
>> a pump peg somewhere you might not have had one before. Will likes to put
>> his in the rear triangle and you'll notice them mounted this way on a lot
>> of his bikes.
>>
>> [image: tumblr_inline_pt3zzjpbXk1qdvnvk_500.jpg]
>> [image: tumblr_inline_pt401jwzC21qdvnvk_500.jpg]
>>
>> This is great, I love it, cool hack! But I've always wanted for a version
>> that doesn't require tracking down and destroying a Nitto strut. Riv HQ is
>> probably awash in Nitto struts and they have em poking out of the coffee
>> cans on everyone's desk all over the place. But not so for me, Nitto struts
>> are precious few in my shed.
>>
>> I think I came up with the right shape and this weekend I picked up an
>> electrical ring terminal in the 10-12 size, yellow sleeve.
>>
>> [image: Screen Shot 2023-01-17 at 9.56.39 PM.png][image: Screen Shot
>> 2023-01-17 at 9.56.44 PM.png]
>>
>> Holding the ring end with one pair of pliers you can easily remove the
>> yellow sleeve with a second pair of pliers. A pack of 15 is $4.50. If your
>> local hardware store has a bulk/loose hardware section you can get one for
>> around 55¢ (at least I did).
>>
>> Paired with a 3/8" insulated cable clamp (2 for $2.20), a few serrated
>> brake washers, an M5 bolt and a nylock nut I had a fashioned a pump peg.
>> Didn't have to cut or shape any metal or destroy any high-end Japanese rack
>> struts.
>>
>> [image: IMG_4875.JPG]
>>
>> [image: IMG_4874.JPG]
>>
>> I have yet to SUPER TEST this out but wanted to share all the same.
>>
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> 
> .
>

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