[RBW] Re: HUGE Rivendell archive update: Catalogs, flyers, brochures and more

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Has the archive gone offline?  I get "Site not found" when trying to reach 
http://notfine.com/rivendell.

On Monday, September 19, 2022 at 3:56:44 PM UTC-7 johnny@gmail.com 
wrote:

> I've been trolling through old Riv Reader's, some fun reading I remember 
> doing a long time ago when those were new. Thanks for sharing and archiving!
>
> Question though, and it's probably an easy one. I own a Hunqapillar and 
> love it. When was the Hunq offered? What years and how many years? Any idea 
> how many frames were sold? 
>
> On Friday, July 8, 2022 at 7:28:27 AM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hi everyone. Small update: Reed added the Hunqapillar brochure to the 
>> archive. 
>>
>>
>> http://notfine.com/rivendell/Brochures/Rivendell%20Frames%20Hunqapillar.pdf
>>
>> On Thursday, December 23, 2021 at 8:59:16 AM UTC-5 John A. Bennett wrote:
>>
>>> Great to see this again, Eric. I *might* have a copy...somewhere. 
>>>
>>> Thanks! 
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> On Thursday, September 2, 2021 at 10:08:47 AM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I've spent the last several months scanning my collection of Rivendell 
 catalogs, flyers, ads and brochures. 

 Reed, who hosts the archive of Rivendell Readers at 
 http://notfine.com/rivreader/, kindly added all of my scans to the 
 site. Now there is quite a trove of Rivendell ephemera. 

 He created a new link (the old one still works!): 
 http://notfine.com/rivendell/

 Enjoy reading! All of the files are text searchable. If you have 
 anything that we haven't included please send me a DM. 


- All 20 Rivendell catalogs
   -  Catalogs from 1996-2018
- Frame brochures
   - 1995 frames mailer
   - Atlantis and Atlantis 2
   - Rambouillet
   - Romulus
   - Rivendell Frame Brochure
   - An early frame paint chart
   - *I'm missing the Cheviot brochure*
- Flyers
   - Nine flyers from 2002–2009
   - *I'm missing Hiawatha Holidays No. 1 *
- Ads
   - An add for the reader from Vintage Bicycle Quarterly
   - A 2014 Cheviot ad




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[RBW] Re: Comparing drop bars to uprights: Path Less Pedaled

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I definitely prefer the handling of a hand position in front of the pivot 
point, and not too far away from the center-line of the bike.  Riding on 
the hoods of older, narrower drop bars is like this, ditto some flat bars 
if the stem is right.  *But* that position is always too far forward for me 
to ride long without my hands going numb, so overall I prefer uprights that 
give me a hand position in front of, at the side of, and behind the pivot 
point.  The trade-off of slightly squirrelier handling but longer comfort 
is worth it.

On Friday, October 2, 2020 at 12:04:13 PM UTC-7, dougP wrote:
>
>
> My question is whether anyone has determined a preferred location for 
> hands in relation to the pivot point of the handlebars?  Hands in front, as 
> with drops?  Hands behind, as with uprights?  
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Just Pics from Your Good Ride Thread

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Most of my rides are along the American River Bike Trail in the Sacramento 
area.  For me they are therapeutic, grounding, and recharging.  I love 
seeing the the changes of seasons, and deepening my relationship with the 
outdoors beyond my own property (which is a very small orchard).  Most of 
my rides are also with my son, now in his early teens.  Boys (big and 
small) can be moody if they are sedentary for too long, so getting us both 
out and moving is a good reminder of that for both of us, and a chance to 
improve communication.

No picture from today's ride, but we passed another Riv rider going the 
other way, on an Atlantis (I think) with a front basket.  I said hello as 
we passed each other, but today I wondered if there is a Rivendell wave or 
anything like that?

-Eric

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[RBW] Re: Sun Protection in Sunny Climes

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Hi Leah,

I'm in Sacramento where we have a similar hot and dry conditions, though a 
little cooler than Vegas, I think.  

My recommendation is to get the lightest weight, 100% merino wool, long 
sleeve base layer or t-shirt you can find.  150 weight or lower, not 250.  
Get a good one that is soft, not cheap and scratchy.  Slightly loose but 
not baggy is good.  Women's often come in lighter colors, which is also 
good.  Wool is sort of a miracle fiber, it wicks and breathes better than 
any synthetic I've found, doesn't feel clammy and dries quickly, and 
doesn't even need to be washed as often as other materials.  It also 
hangs/drapes better than cotton.  Bonus is that you can also wear the same 
shirt as insulation in the winter.

I wear a long sleeve merino T or base layer as sunscreen on the bike, on 
snow, and on the water.  It can still get warm, but the wicking and 
breathability combine to beat everything else I've ever tried.  I've worn 
cotton, linen, ramie, and rayon in knits and weaves and some seersucker.  
 None of them worked as well, or looked better with sweat marks, or dried 
as fast and comfortably as light weight wool.  I actually wear merino dress 
shirts for the same reasons.

I wish I had something as useful to suggest for pants.  I still use 
sunscreen on the hands, and on the face and neck when a hat won't work.  
Sometimes I wear a buff or bandana for the neck instead.

Cheers,
Eric

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[RBW] Re: FS. Rivendell Hats, Paul Neo Retro, Tires and misc

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Sending PM for Cazaderos.

-Eric

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[RBW] Re: Knicker Quest

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Patagonia makes climbing knickers:  
https://www.patagonia.com/product/mens-venga-rock-climbing-knickers/83092.html?dwvar_83092_color=SMDB=mens-pants-jeans-climbing
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Walking boots -- not entirely unrelated to cycling

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I second all of Deacon Patrick's recommendations.  

Regarding ankle support, in my experience this is a misnomer.  Boots that 
cover your ankle provide *protection* (from rocks, brush, water, cold, etc) 
but not *support*, there just isn't enough rigidity for that.  In a similar 
vein, soft insoles do not provide arch support (if you need arch support, 
you need a hard orthotic), but they can help keep your shoe in place on 
your foot, a need which doesn't really exist with thin soles.

If you like going barefoot anywhere - the beach, the house, wherever - then 
with "barefoot shoes" you can enjoy that pretty much anywhere.

Also, since you brought up resoling, I don't know of any barefoot shoes 
that are designed to be resoled, but my VivoBarefoots have (for the most 
part) lasted way longer than any non-barefoot shoes I've ever had.

-Eric

On Friday, February 21, 2020 at 4:18:59 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Hike barefoot for a month. Then you'll know if:
>
> - you need ankle support
> - you need beefy souls
> - you need shoes at all
>
> I prefer barefoot, but given the sharp (pun intended) increase in drug 
> paraphanilia since legalized marijuana in these parts, I also like to have 
> extra protection. VivoBarefoot has a lot of good options, and if you need 
> grippier tread without increasing beefiness, XeroShoes. Their sandals are 
> brilliant. RE ankle support: when I hiked with custom alpine boots, I 
> rolled my ankle several times a year. When I went barefoot/minimalist, my 
> ankles strengthened and I've never twisted one since, over a decade later, 
> and that includes trail running.
> https://www.vivobarefoot.com/us
> https://xeroshoes.com/
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Friday, February 21, 2020 at 4:54:54 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> More suggestions! Thank you.
>>
>> My use will be quite light; no long-distance walking on very rough 
>> terrain with heavy backpack; just =/< 5 mile hikes unencumbered on groomed 
>> trails, though perhaps sandy.
>>
>> I gather that some of these will be overkill, and that I ought to limit 
>> myself to the "light" models? Comments welcome.
>>
>> I would prefer to pay $400 and get something to last out my last 25 years 
>> or so (I turn 65 shortly). And I like polishing and greasing leather.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Can we talk about long wheelbases?

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

This has been an interesting thread to read, for sure.  My sense from 
riding mostly older bikes was that head tube angle + trail + front center 
length + hand position affected steering and handling more, while rear 
center (chainstay) and overall wheel base affected smoothness of ride.  The 
front end factors always seemed more difficult to understand how they work 
together than the comparatively simple rear end.  At some point I decided 
that the only thing that mattered when buying a bike is whether you like 
how it feels or not.  Then I bought a first version Sam as a frame (no test 
ride) and it's my favorite bike.  Grant's experience as an artist/designer 
carries a lot of weight with me (I had/have some Bridgestones as well as 
the Sam), and I don't take my thoughts about specific details half as 
seriously as my experience of his holistic approach.

But yeah, bigger bikes are a lot more awkward to store, carry, and 
transport.

Ranges for my bikes were: Chainstays 435-470mm, so not a huge range; Front 
center 611-640mm; Head tube angle 68-74*; calculated trail 36-63mm.

-Eric

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[RBW] Re: How & when & why did you find Rivendell? What was your first bike or part from them?

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I'd ridden bikes as a kid and had a Cannondale touring bike in college, but 
then nothing for about 15 years.  Around 2007 my wife and I decided that 
bike riding would be a good family activity for us and our young child.  We 
got three-speeds (mine was a beat up 67 Raleigh Superbe), but I fell in 
love with riding and wrenching on bikes again, and started looking for a 
newer bike to tinker around with.  I came across Rivendell in my research, 
loved what I read, and knew I couldn't afford one.  I bought a 1984 Univega 
Gran Turismo on Craigslist, and a Dirt Drop stem and barend shifters for it 
from Riv.  Not too long after, the Sam Hillborne was introduced and the 
description was a perfect match for what I wanted.  But I still couldn't 
afford one.  Ten years later I had too many bikes, but mostly rode my Gran 
Turismo and a Bridgestone XO-3.  One day browsing CL again, but this time 
trying to figure out what I could sell some bikes for, I came across a NOS 
Hillborne frame in my size, in the original green.  I bought it, I built it 
up, and have barely ridden anything else since.  I've sold about half my 
old bikes, and plan to sell most of the rest this spring.  Everything Grant 
said about the Sam in that first article is true, not just a sales a pitch, 
and I grin every time I get on that bike.

-Eric


On Wednesday, January 8, 2020 at 9:52:28 AM UTC-8, Pancake wrote:
>
> Leah's discussion about long wheel base led to a lot of interesting 
> discussions about how people found Rivendell. I'd like to know:
>
>- How you first found out about Rivendell?
>- What caused you to actually get your first Rivendell frame or 
>component (or something Riv inspired) ... and what was that first buy?
>- And could you add a photo of that first?
>
> Personally, I was overweight and looking to make my biking more 
> comfortable back in 2004 in Berkeley. Searching online led me to look at 
> Brooks saddles and sweptback handlebars and ultimately to Rivendell to buy 
> some steel Albatross bars ... which I still use today! On a student budget, 
> I attached them to a Jamis Coda Sport (steel frame) with beefed up wheels 
> from The Missing Link bike co-op. Then about 2 years ago my friend Ronnie 
> gave me a Cheviot frame to build up as a distraction while waiting to 
> adopt. The moment I finished building the bike, as I was attaching the 
> pedals my wife pulled into the garage, jumped out of the car and with tears 
> and a huge smile and told me to get plane tickets to Kansas because our 
> daughter was about to be born! Now our daughter is almost 2 years old and I 
> have the Cheviot, a Sam Hillborne, and the same friend is lending me a 
> Rosco Baby frame until that we built a couple weeks ago for front kid seat 
> rides. 
>
> When Grant met my daughter, he noticed the "Baby Muggle On Board" sticker 
> on our car window ... he was rightfully concerned that we didn't know if 
> she was a muggle or not!
>
> Ride on,
> Abe
>
> Some pics of my other Rivendell bikes (and the Rosco Baby with those 
> original Albatross bars) here - https://imgur.com/a/wWgiDmh
>
> [image: IMG_4021.jpg]
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] OT: non-bike hobbies

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

What an interesting bunch of folks, I wish more of you lived closer to me.

While my wife was pregnant I worked on reducing my hobbies, so that I could 
spend more time with my son.  I picked music (guitar) and reading as things 
I could do either alone or with him.  He's 13 and we still play music 
together sometimes, and still read the occasional book out loud to each 
other.  The key thing I try to include is that it should be music or books 
that are new to both of us, or already loved by both of us, so there is a 
shared sense of exploration or appreciation.

Later we started biking as an activity we could do together as a family, 
and I still ride with my son a lot.  But we also spend time walking by the 
river, skipping stones, talking about stuff, birding, etc.  These are all 
good times, year round.

Over time my son and I have also had a great time exploring and 
experimenting with the simple machines (lever, inclined plane, pulley, etc).

Outside of family time, I run a fencing school where I research and teach 
historical swordplay, and also translate renaissance era fencing texts to 
English.  This is my main outlet for spending time with other adults.

Finally, my woodworking hobby has been on hiatus for a long time, but I'm 
starting to get into that again.  Designing stuff and making it is pretty 
rewarding.

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[RBW] Reduced market for used older bikes?

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I've been working on selling off my older bikes and there just doesn't seem 
to be any buyers out there.  Riv content is that these are decent steel 
bikes, from the 80s-90s, still comfortable to ride, with new parts like 
cables/housing/brake pads, and tuned up so all the remaining older parts 
work smoothly and reliably.  Most recently I had an early 90s Specialized 
Hardrock on Craigslist for a month.  When I wasn't even getting any 
interest calls at $80 I just gave it away instead of dropping the price any 
further.

Is anyone else experiencing this, or have ideas about what is going on?  Is 
the economy doing too well for people to buy inexpensive used bikes?  Is 
there less of a market due to Jump and other bike share companies?  At this 
point I may just donate some of the bikes to the local Bicycle Kitchen 
instead of tuning them up to sell myself.

Curious in Sacramento,
Eric

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[RBW] Re: FS / FT Saddlesack Small Blue

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

PM sent.

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[RBW] Re: Servicing Silver hubs?

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

There was still some grease in the mechanism, but I added some more and 
gave it a short test ride; it's a lot quieter now :-)  The noise level 
oscillates a bit with each tire rotation though, so I guess I wasn't very 
even with my application :-(

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[RBW] Re: Seeking summer weight long sleeve wool shirt ideas

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Most of mt wool shirts are from woolandprince.com.  They have some plaids 
with red in them.

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[RBW] Re: Servicing Silver hubs?

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Thank you Jeremy, for all that detail!  

Based on my experience with the VO hub, just lubricating the pawls 
themselves and not the interface was enough to make a huge difference in 
noise level.  I'll make sure the interface stays clean.

Best regards,
Eric

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[RBW] Servicing Silver hubs?

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Has any one serviced one of Rivendell's Silver free hubs?  I want to grease 
the pawls to quiet things down back there (I have Phil Tenacious Oil for 
this), but the only free hub I've worked on is a VO, which doesn't need any 
tools.  I've figured out that the Silver hubs were made by KT, but they 
seem to make different designs.  Do I need any special tools, other than to 
remove the cassette?  Or is there something I should be watching out for so 
I don't muck things up?

Thanks for any help or advice,
Eric

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[RBW] Re: It is summer: updated sandal discussion?

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I prefer the Keen Clearwater sandals, they're about half the weight of the 
Newports: https://www.keenfootwear.com/p/M-CLEARWATER-CNX.html

-Eric

On Thursday, June 6, 2019 at 11:46:24 AM UTC-7, WETH wrote:
>
> Keen Newport leather sandals: 
> https://www.keenfootwear.com/p/M-NEWPORT.html
> I live in these from May through September. Socks fit nicely as well.
> Best wishes,
> Erl
>

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[RBW] Re: FS/FT: Wool Knickers/Breeches

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Military knickers sold, Sondre ones still available.

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[RBW] FS/FT: Wool Knickers/Breeches

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I know it's a little late in the season, but I have 2 pairs of Wool 
knickers/breeches to sell and I am offering them here before flogging them 
on Ebay.  Riv content:  I used them for cycling.

 

Pair 1:  vintage, used military knickers/breeches.  Heavy wool fabric, with 
reinforced seat and button flap closures on all pockets.  Leather cord ties 
at knees.  Some wear, some minor holes (possibly moth damage?), some repair 
work on seams.  One button missing, one mismatched.   I wore them for 
cycling, but there is still plenty of life left in these pants.  Selling 
because they aren't really my size and I found something else that fits 
better.

   - Size: 46 R 
   - Waist: 35" (adjustable by a tailor, like dress pants) 
   - Inseam: 18" 
   - $40 including shipping to continental US 
   - https://photos.app.goo.gl/WkrDEU1zqvEJwjRTA 

 

 

Pair 2: vintage wool blend cross-country skiing knickers/breeches in like 
new condition.  Completely lined, high waisted (not modern waist), 
reinforced knees.  Buttons for suspenders/braces, metal fasteners at knee.  
These pants are lovely, and if they fit me I would never sell them.  Make 
by Sonde.

   - Size: 42 
   - Waist: 30" (adjustable by a tailor, like dress pants) 
   - Inseam: 20" 
   - $60 including shipping to continental US 
   - https://photos.app.goo.gl/m6seW5sxCj7L8shY6 

 

 Will also consider trades, partial or full, either direction.  Looking for 
a nice set of cranks in good condition, stem with removable faceplate, 
basic black plastic pedals, drop bars, brake levers for cantilever brakes.

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Re: [RBW] Re: New bike woes - Albatross bars and Brooks B17 Special saddle

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Regarding the Flyer, I've found that the springs work better as suspension 
the more upright you are, but I always had my bars at or slightly above 
saddle height.  This was true back when I weighed 175+, and is still true 
now at about 160.  But more than the overall suspension, I found that the 
Flyer can rock a bit side to side, which may not be great form but can 
certainly make up for a saddle which is an imperfect fit or not adjusted to 
normal standards.  I wouldn't argue for dramatic hip rocking, but enough of 
us are slightly lopsided that a little accommodation goes a long way.  I 
can't remember which saddle company had a bunch of videos about this 10 
years ago or so, was it Selle Anatomica?  Now it seems there are several 
options for saddles which "move".

On Monday, May 6, 2019 at 6:16:43 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Interesting about the Flyer; I installed one on a mountain bike and though 
> I weigh about 175 I couldn't feel any give. Is it a matter of setup? I did 
> have the bar 2 or 3 cm below saddle; does that affect its efficacy?
>
> A Flyer would be nice on the Matthews because much of the terrain I ride 
> is choppy.
>
> On Mon, May 6, 2019 at 6:17 AM Surlyprof > 
> wrote:
>
>> I agree with Joe.  I didn’t like the width of the b67 when I was riding a 
>> more upright setup. I also found my butt getting sore early in a ride on 
>> the b17 despite preferring the shape.  I shifted to Flyer (sprung b17) and 
>> love it.  I know everyone says the springs don’t do anything unless you 
>> weigh a lot but I disagree.  I think Brooks nailed it with the really tight 
>> springs.  I weigh between 165 and 170 and found the Flyer saddle to have 
>> just enough spring to make upright riding comfortable for long distances 
>> without an overly bouncey feel (which I detest).  Even thinking about 
>> getting a Flyer Imperial to take the edge off my hardtail mountain bike.
>>
>> John
>>
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>
>
> -- 
>
>
>
>
> **
>
>
>
>
>
> *Still 'round the corner there may waitA new road or a secret gate,And 
> though we pass them by today,Tomorrow we may come this wayAnd take the 
> hidden paths that runTowards the Moon or to the Sun.*
> --- J.R.R. Tolkien
> ---
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching
> Other professional writing services
> Expensive! But good.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 0mm offset Nitto Quill Stem

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Man, I would love to see nice looking quill stems with removable faces...

On Monday, April 29, 2019 at 2:52:14 PM UTC-7, jandrews wrote:
>
> I also wrote Matt and this I what he said about the sizing : 
>
> “They are actually 30mm reach. I will also have some in 50mm as well as a 
> bunch of removable face versions.” 
>

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[RBW] PSA: 59cm Bleriot on Napa Craigslist

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bik/d/napa-59cm-bleriot-rivendell-touring/6872632091.html

No connection to bike or seller, etc.

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[RBW] Re: Friction vs Indexed

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I've mostly ridden older bikes which came to me in good shape so I just 
rode them as they came, after I cleaned them, replaced rubber parts and 
sometimes cables/housing, and gave them a tuneup.  In all this time I only 
had one bike with indexed shifting (and a derailleur).  It worked OK, but 
tended to skip the occasional gear when shifting.  This didn't bother me 
that much for the type of riding I was doing, but it irked me.  
Occasionally I flipped it to friction, but the shifters weren't as nice in 
friction mode as some of the others I was used to.  I did put silver 
shifters on one bike, and they were definitely nicer than any of the other 
friction shifters I had.  But basically I felt like there were issues with 
both index and friction, and I couldn't completely discount my mechanical 
skills as part of the problem.

When I got my Sam Hillborne frame, I decided to try for the "have my cake 
and eat it too" option of the Shimano bar end shifters with index and 
friction modes.  The first try went OK, but after several months it started 
skipping some gears. I figured this was possibly due to cables stretching, 
plus I was using 8 spd shifters on a 7 spd rear wheel.  But again, it was 
more mildly irksome than actual bothersome.  More recently, I put on a new 
derailleur and new wheels with a 9 spd cassette, and originally figured I 
was just going to swap friction.  But that irked part of me spoke up and 
wanted to try again with the 9 spd indexed shifters.  So, that's what I've 
done, but this time with more research.  Park Tools has a really good video 
with Calvin Jones walking through  how to adjust a rear derailleur, 
covering limit screws and indexing:  
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkZxPIZ1ngY  Following this video I got the 
new setup shifting much more smoothly than any of my past indexing.  We'll 
see how long it lasts, and how easy it is to re-adjust down the line.  For 
now I'm pretty happy with it.

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[RBW] Re: NAHBS iBOB/Riv list Get-Together and Garage Sale, Sat 3/16

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Hi Jeremy,

Thanks for hosting this, it was great to meet you and others in person, and 
see all the great bikes :-)

-Eric

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[RBW] PSA: 2012 59cm A. Homer Hilsen

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

https://sacramento.craigslist.org/bik/d/sacramento-59cm-rivendell-homer-hilsen/6841650995.html

No affiliation to seller

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[RBW] Re: Balance Bikes for Bouncing Babies

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I just took the cranks off a regular (right-sized) bike for my son.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Silver and WI cranks, Nitto bullmoose & chocomoose & billie bars, VO wheelset

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

PM sent for wheelset.

On Saturday, February 16, 2019 at 1:00:25 PM UTC-8, Derek Atkins wrote:
>
> Everything pending except the wheelset and brake levers. Getting back to 
> PMs now. 

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[RBW] Re: Fenders

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

In my experience metal fenders are definitely not quieter than plastic, and 
take some extra tinkering to achieve a similar noise level.  Leather 
washers help, as does an extra attachment point over the front if it 
extends far forward.  The noise is also different in nature: metal rings 
while plastic makes more of a clacking sound.  The ringing is more invasive 
to my ears.  I haven't found that the Honjos wrap more than a couple inches 
more of the rear wheel than my SKS fenders do.  For both, if I want a nice 
tight fender line I need to deflate the tire to remove or replace the 
wheel.  After doing that a couple times I decided that I could aim for nice 
but not tight :-D  All my plastic fenders are 10 to 30 years old, and none 
of them are as even or nice as the metal fenders, but from 10' away and 
moving 10+ mph they look FINE.  I would be curious to know if anyone has 
mounted plastic fenders using the mounting system from the Honjos.  That 
could possibly achieve the more finished look with the quieter material.

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[RBW] Re: Favorite grips for bar end shifters?

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Been meaning to post an update on this.  I went with the Ourys, per 
Jeremy's recommendation, because they come pre-grooved.  They have 5 
grooves, so one can be lined up at the bottom, and the other 4 are nicely 
spaced, visually.  Also, because they have grooves around, not just 
lengthwise, you can tie the shifter cable in place *a la Rivendell*.  It's 
been hard to get a decently clear and focused picture on a cellphone of the 
how the cable fits in, so I'm attaching 2 detail shots and hoping they are 
clear enough.  From a review perspective, I'm really happy with these 
grips, they are all the padding I wanted and have a nice feel:  grippy but 
not sticky.

  

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[RBW] Re: daily post ur riv

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

My Sam Hillborne from late fall / early winter, by the American River near 
Sacramento.


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[RBW] Re: anyone for NAHBS? March 15 - 17, Sacramento, CA

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Nice!  I'm in Sac, I'd love to go to it again.

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[RBW] Re: Shoes for rambling.

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I tend to wear barefoot shoe's off the bike, but always wanted some extra 
padding/stiffness on the bike, even with platform pedals.  I may give 
Patrick's extra inserts idea a try.

My current "biking shoe" is a pair of older Puma sneakers, with soles 
somewhere between the Sambas and *old school* volley ball shoes.  I wear 
Sambas for other sports, and would happily use them for biking as well.  I 
tend to buy shoes that are pretty roomy, and that can make a big 
difference.  I'd suggest going to a discount shoe outlet that sells fancy 
brands (in hopes of higher quality) and see what you can find.

If you are interested in other barefoot style shoes, also look at Merrell, 
they make ones with several different thicknesses of sole.

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[RBW] Re: Self-diagnosed Riv addicts (some) since 1994.

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Returned to cycling around 2009.  Was immediately inspired by Grant and 
Rivendell, but could only afford older bikes, including an XO-3 I kept 
original and an MB-3 which I Rivved out with Brooks saddle, Albatross bars, 
etc. Got up to 12 bikes for family of 3, but most are mine.

In 2018 I bought a NOS 2009ish Sam Hillborne frame, built it out, and 
haven't really ridden anything else since.  I keep planning to rebuild my 
old touring bike, but my Hillborne is more comfortable, fits better, and 
basically does everything better than the old one.  So as much as I enjoy 
wrenching on bikes, I like riding more, and I keep going for a ride instead 
of working on the other bike.

Meanwhile I'm in the process of selling off most of the older bikes, and 
finishing a Rivish build on one for my wife.  Hopefully I'll be able to 
afford another Rivendell one of these days -- for her if she starts riding 
more again, or for me if she doesn't.  I may take up rebuilding older bikes 
with Rivendell parts for friends and family if they are interested, but I'm 
mostly done with that for me.  I'd rather go for a ride.

Thanks to Grant and Rivendell, my cycling life is far more enjoyable this 
time around.

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[RBW] Re: FS: 1986 Bridgestone MB-3

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Beautiful!  That's in *much* nicer shape than the one I just sold.  I had 
built mine up similarly, but reverted it back to mostly original before 
selling it.  It was a fun bike to ride, and I might have kept it if it had 
been in the same condition as yours.

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[RBW] Re: FS: 2 sets of pedals -- VP Thin Gripsters & Pedaling Innovations Catalyst

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Sending PM for Catalyst pedals

On Sunday, November 4, 2018 at 8:24:26 AM UTC-8, tc wrote:
>
> Hey everyone, I'm selling these 2 sets individually, just listing them 
> together:
>
> *VP Thin Gripsters*:
> $40 shipped CONUS.  Dark blue-gray.  (Note - the new ones currently 
> offered by Riv are pure gray I believe, no blue-ish tint.)  I bought these 
> new from Riv to put on my former SimpleOne, but decided I didn't like the 
> blue-gray color against the SO's dark green frame.  Less than 3 miles on 
> these; you really can't tell they've been used except for the grease on the 
> threads.  Riv sells these for $70 + shipping.
>
> [image: pedals_VP_Thin_Gripsters.jpg]
>
>
> *Pedaling Innovations Catalyst:*
> $60 shipped CONUS.  Black.  I bought these new from the Pedaling 
> Innovations website.  Tried them on my former Sam, but in the end couldn't 
> make the adjustment to center-of-foot pedaling.  Probably about 50-75 miles 
> on these; they look pretty much new except for the grease on the threads.  
> These sell new for $99 + shipping.
>
> [image: pedals_PedalingInnovations_Catalyst.jpg]
>
>
> No trades at this time, thanks.
>
> Tom
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: My Big Green Tractor

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Saw this today and thought of this thread.  Your bike is much, much nicer 
nicer though.

HUFFY BIKE WITH CANOE AND DOLLY CART - $600
https://sacramento.craigslist.org/bik/d/huffy-bike-with-canoe-and/6705634334.html

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[RBW] Re: Favorite grips for bar end shifters?

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

These are all good ideas, thanks!  I may try the inner tube or cork wrap up 
on the curves, but I think the Oury grips are what I'll try first.
Cheers,
Eric

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[RBW] Re: Bike sizing by PBH, and wanting to give drop bars one more chance

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Mat, thanks for the tip about adding spacers to the Grip Kings!  Did you 
use the round spacers that look like a piece of really thick walled pipe, 
or did you drill through a block of aluminum for something that spans 
across both screws, or something else?

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[RBW] Favorite grips for bar end shifters?

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Went for a 30 mile ride today on the Albatross bars, and somewhere between 
20 and 25 miles I found myself wishing for some part of the grip with more 
padding.  Right now the main grip area is just a wrap of Neubaum's tape and 
the rest is bare metal.  I didn't have great luck with the last cork grips 
I tried, but maybe the new ones are better.  I just put something like the 
Dutch Paddle grips on my son's bike and was about to get some for me but 
I'm not sure how to make them work with bar ends.  I'm tempted to try the 
silicone ones that Riv sells, but I'd love to hear about other solutions.

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[RBW] PSA: 55cm Cheviot for sale in Sacramento area

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

https://sacramento.craigslist.org/bik/d/rivendell-cheviot-55cm-650b/6729042329.html

I have no connection, just saw it on Craigslist.

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[RBW] Re: Bike sizing by PBH, and wanting to give drop bars one more chance

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Hi Mat and Patrick, I’m totally on board with the floor living.  In fact 
not being able to sit comfortably on the floor for long periods is what 
drove me to work on my hips/hams/glutes.  I’ve got plenty of stretches for 
them, and they’ve made a difference, but mostly I just try to spend more 
time on the floor playing games with my son.  I have been active in many 
sports most of my life (my night job is teaching fencing and historical 
martial arts), but about 5 years ago a metatarsal injury in one foot 
severely limited my mobility, and I’m still trying to come back from that 
:-(  I’m also combating a lifetime of tight hips – for example even as a 
kid I couldn’t snowplow on skis without pain, so I learned parallel stops, 
and even telemarking to get around it.

 

I set my current saddle height by aiming for the highest position which 
didn’t compromise smooth movement and cadence on one hand, or comfort on 
the other.  (I can be smooth in more than one style of pedaling, but 
keeping the foot level is the most comfortable.)  In all my research and 
teaching of sports I like to make sure students know how to occasionally 
reevaluate their “Goldilocks” point or zone by experimenting with extremes 
on either side of it.  I make sure they understand whether a certain action 
should come from the core or large muscles vs smaller, and how to keep good 
body structure.  But it’s still important to have a valid test condition, 
which is why I like Steve Hogg’s 3 minute test at a defined significant 
load to find where you start to lose fluency, and then back it off two 
steps, “because not every day is the best day of your life.”

 

I’ve been riding with Grip King pedals (on the bike I’m trying to replace) 
for a long time, keeping the foot level, etc, but I’ve wished for longer 
pedals so I will probably look into the Catalyst pedals that Mojo 
recommended.

 

I think my main takeaway from this thread is that my preference for a 
slightly lower saddle height is not really an outlier, and that there are 
known factors which seem to affect it.  I need to find a bike which is big 
enough to help me with handlebar height, but my saddle height is reasonably 
dialed in, so I shouldn’t go so big as to mess with that.

 

Best regards,

Eric

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[RBW] Re: Bike sizing by PBH, and wanting to give drop bars one more chance

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

You guys are a treasure trove of information, thanks!
 
@Mat, thanks for the link to Steve Hogg; his functional method of 
determining height is the sort of method I use in my other athletic 
endeavors.
 
It also sounds like I share some other considerations with a number of 
you:  midfoot pedaling, thinnish soled shoes, and tight hamstrings/glutes.  
I’ve been working on the hamstrings, but not very diligently.
 
My Sam is an older size 60, and I’m really happy with it.  The bike I’m 
trying to replace is a 23” 1984 Univega Gran Turismo made by Miyata, and 
I’m working on checking out a semi-local 25” 1984 Miyata 610, which is 
basically the same bike but different branding and a size up, which I’m 
pretty excited about.  If the seller’s measurements are correct, the top 
tube is about the same length but the standover height  is a little 
monstrous: I’ll have about ¼” plus shoe sole thickness.  That’s about an 
inch higher than my Sam, which I’m quite comfortable on, so hopefully it 
will work out.
 

Best regards,
Eric

>

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[RBW] Bike sizing by PBH, and wanting to give drop bars one more chance

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Up until about a month ago I rode 58cm sized bikes, in varying degrees of 
(dis)comfort.  Then I started riding my new significantly larger Sam 
Hillborne and realized all my older bikes are too small, so I've basically 
decided to replace one of my old bikes with something similar (mid-80s 
sport tourer) in a larger size, and sell the rest.  Now I'm trying to 
figure out that sizing.

 

I'm a little over 6'1" (187cm) and long in the torso but with only normal 
length arms, according to my dress shirts.  So to paraphrase an old joke, 
my arms aren't quite long enough to reach the handlebars, and I need an 
extra couple cm of handlebar/stem height to compensate. 

 

My PBH is 89.5 cm.  According to Rivendell, my saddle height should be 
78-79cm, and my starting frame size should be 62-64 cm (The Sam is 
different because it is an expanded frame).  For whatever reason, that 
saddle height is not comfortable and I tend to use something a couple cm 
shorter.  (Possibly because I keep my feet further forward on the pedal?) 

 

On the Sam I have Albatross bars and love them, but would like to have a 
second bike with a different cockpit.  Stretching forward has generally not 
been as comfortable to me as riding in the drops against a headwind, so I 
am hoping that a larger frame, plus a short reach stem (I'd try one of 
Analog's w(Right) stems if they were cheaper), and short reach drops like 
the Soma Highway 1 bar might add up to something comfortable.

 

If you have a similar body challenges, or a preference for a slightly 
shorter saddle height, I'd love to hear about your thoughts and experience 
on bike sizing.  Ditto for drop bars.  I know I'm going to have to try 
riding a number of different bikes, but I'd like to start out trying the 
right size.

 

Best regards,

Eric

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[RBW] Re: Whatbars.com

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

What a useful tool!  And timely too.  Thanks for sharing it here.

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[RBW] Re: OT: Kids' bikes. Islabikes is closing.

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

The ones from the 24" are 152 which is slightly better sized for his 160cm 
than the 165 cranks on the 26" bike.  Bikes aren't selling well around here 
at this time of year, so stealing the others is fine for now.  I may look 
into buying something others if the market for complete bikes picks up.  

 I love the idea of the Hill Bike decals!  I wanted to repaint a bike just 
so I could use the Resurrectio ones :-)


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[RBW] Re: OT: Kids' bikes. Islabikes is closing.

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

That's a nice build, Mark.  I've been wondering about shorter cranks.  I 
may try the shorter ones from his 24" bike and see how he likes that before 
buying or modifying.

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[RBW] Re: OT: Kids' bikes. Islabikes is closing.

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

We just went through this with my 12 year old, who was maxed out riding his 
24" bike.  I looked around at newer bikes and couldn't find anything we 
wanted in our price range, though I might have reconsidered if I'd seen the 
info from this thread.  In the end we took a similar route with him that I 
have for me in the past:  a late 80s to mid-90s mountain bike.  They are 
ubiquitous, and therefore cheap enough that I can afford to spend money to 
modify them, and they typically have all the attachment points we might 
want.  He's only going to fit this bike for a few years, so this is a good 
time to experiment and find out what he likes.  We ended up with a +/- 1990 
Specialized Hardrock.  I'm replacing what is likely the original chain, 
cables, and brake pads, and adding a stem mounted cable hanger for the 
front brake, and then swap out for whatever handlebars he wants.  It'll fit 
fenders, and it's tall enough for a saddle bag if he wants it.  Other 
models had attachments for front racks, but he was less interested 
specifically in that.

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[RBW] Re: Heard my first "Hey, nice Riv!" today. Felt chuffed

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Sadly, I missed a chance to "nice bike" someone last weekend :-(  Someone 
riding the other way, I noticed the canvas looking handlebar bag first, 
then what looked like moustache bars and that the rider may have been 
female(?) but then we'd passed each other.  I gotta be quicker on the 
uptake and make eye contact if I'm going to meet others this way.

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[RBW] Re: Feedback? Velo Orange Double Kickstand

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I have a Copenhagen on one bike, and a Pletscher on the other.  The 
Copenhagen seems bulkier than the Pletscher, but I think it is actually 
slightly lighter weight.  The adjustability and large feet and cheaper 
price make the VO pretty attractive.  The both work about the same as far 
as I can tell.

-Eric

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[RBW] Re: What do Rivendell Riders use for floor pumps?

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Ditto the Topeak Joe Blow Sport.  I bought it in a Performance Bike store, 
and the staff recommended it because the return rate is so low compared to 
the others they stock.

On Sunday, September 30, 2018 at 10:59:37 AM UTC-7, tc wrote:
>
> My Topeak Joe Blow Sport meets those criteria.  I think I paid ~ $35 @ 
> Performance.
>
> Tom
>

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[RBW] Re: What epoch of Rivster are you?

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I guess I'm a 2TTer by epoch, though I really didn't care for the double 
top tubes when I first saw them. Then we got to the diagatube which I 
couldn't tell if I liked or not but eventually settled on liking, and now 
we have the bridge truss curved second tubes, and I love those.  I got back 
into cycling as an adult in 2008 or 2009, quickly found Rivendell, and 
immediately lusted after their bikes even though I figured I'd never be 
able to afford one.  I was particularly drawn to the green Sam Hillborne, 
but also to EcoVelo's Orange one.  I ended up buying a number of used bikes 
(largely Bridgestones, Univegas, and old 3-speeds) but mostly rode my 1984 
Univega Gran Turismo with some Riv inspiration for parts and fit.  A couple 
months ago I got a great deal on a NOS green Sam Hillborne frame and that 
is now my favorite bike to the point where I am selling all my others 
except the Gran Turismo, which I may try to trade for a larger size bike of 
similar nature.

Also Mike Godwin, I love that diagram!

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[RBW] Re: BUMP! different prices FS: Marks Rack/ Nitto M32/ Makeshifter Outback saddlebag

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

PM sent on Mark's Rack.

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Re: [RBW] Strange experience on bike trail

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

When riding my classic vintage bikes I've always has lots of great 
interactions with people on foot, and plenty of conversations with other 
cyclists when opportunities arise, like stopped at the same place to admire 
a view.  But this has been different:  The pedestrians were still just as 
friendly, it's the cyclists who are blowing past without observing the 
customary courtesies :-\

On the other hand, while stopped outside a local bike shop, an old guy rode 
up staring very hard at the Sam Hillborne until he could see the head badge 
up close.  He had thought it might be a Hercules, so we had a fun chat 
about old bikes for a bit.

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[RBW] Strange experience on bike trail

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I've been riding on the American River Bike Trail in (Sacramento, CA)  for 
about 10 years now, mostly on a bike with drop bars, and occasionally on a 
mountain bike.  Nearly all the cyclists who pass me call out "on your left" 
first, regardless of whether I'm riding alone or with my son, or on what 
bike.  But now on two out of two rides on the Sam Hillborne with Albatross 
bars only one (1) rider announced they were passing.  This was the case 
when were riding single file and double file.  I can't help but wonder if 
it has to do with the (significantly) more upright riding position being 
taken less seriously or something.  Are there any other similar experiences 
out there?

-Eric

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[RBW] Re: What do Rivendell Riders use for a floor bike stand?

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I have kickstands on most of my bikes, but I've been really happy with the 
Bikehand for my bike that doesn't have one.  Easy to move around and quite 
stable.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BW4TP7C/

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[RBW] Re: Building out New Old Stock 2009 Sam Hillborne

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Hi Thomas,

I made a standoff like the Acorn one, but if the bag wasn't full or had 
heavy stuff in it then it sort of collapsed back around the standoff, so I 
stopped using it.  I just bought some coroplast to see if I can make a 
stiffener for it that will help solve the problem.  Acorn uses HDPE, but 
I'm hoping the coroplast will work.

Best Regards,
Eric

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[RBW] Re: Building out New Old Stock 2009 Sam Hillborne

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Very nice!  I was considering green bar tape for my build too :-)  I've 
noticed the paint seems to chip easily, but so far not in large flakes.  If 
it ever gets to the point of needing to repaint it, I will also change the 
rear brake braze-ons to accommodate continuous housing, but I hope that day 
is a long way off.

I'll probably put fenders on it for the winter, and a kickstand soon, but 
for now I'm enjoying the low accessories build.


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[RBW] Re: Building out New Old Stock 2009 Sam Hillborne

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Thanks everyone, I'm pretty fond of the color too. I remember admiring it 
when the bike first came out, there was one parked near my worked, and I 
read and re-read the lovely bike posts about it.

@Jeremy, How cool!  If you see me again you should stop me and have a chat!

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[RBW] Re: Rear 130 wheel ok in 135 DO? 4mm each side need to be taken up.

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

That sounds like a wider spacing than normal...

I went through this a couple weeks ago, and even called Rivendell to ask 
about running a 130 wheel in a 135 dropout.  I said I wanted to use the 
wheel for a few years, and they said it would be fine.  But again, my 
spacing really was only 5mm different.

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[RBW] Re: ISO: The right rear rack

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Here are some pictures of the situation.  One shows the bag in its current 
dangling position; this works, I've used it like this for years on other 
bikes.  The other shows the approximate bag position I would like to 
achieve with a rack.  The lower front corner of the bag is about 2" above 
and 1" aft of those braze-ons.

As is:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/tjuEgTtociSrht9w9
As desired:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/qUn8Nr7sQVzq1u7M6

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[RBW] Re: ISO: The right rear rack

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Thanks for the tip about the Erlen.  It looks like that would fit this bag, 
where the Carradice Bagman rack wouldn't.

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[RBW] Re: front rack bag for a 54ram. what do people here like.

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I use an older Velo-Orange small randonneur bag with the decaleur that 
mounts under the headset lock nut on my 23"/56.5cm Univega sport tourer.  
It holds enough stuff and stays in place when riding (including fire roads 
and some trails) while still being easy to remove/replace when I want to.  
Overall, I've been very happy with this setup.

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[RBW] Re: ISO: The right rear rack

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

HaHA!  Yes, this is a tweed one.  It's sort of a mediocre bag compared to 
what is out there today such as the Acorns or Sackvilles, etc, but's it the 
bag I have, it works fine for what I need, and I still love the look of 
it.  But I think it would look better supported by a rack, along these 
lines instead of dangling:

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/f0/30/cb/f030cb64760fed7ebdb63cc32952fed5.jpg

http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2007/cc300-joelsolomon0507.html  



I did consider selling this bag to fund a Sackville or Zimbale, but I 
decided I'd rather tinker with this one to add some interior pockets and 
maybe a stiffener.  If I need something bigger or more waterproof someday, 
I'll get it when I know what I need rather than guessing about it now.

On Wednesday, September 12, 2018 at 6:24:33 AM UTC-7, Tom Wyland wrote:
>
> One word... TWEED.   
>
>

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[RBW] Re: New Breeks and Old Leaves

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Those look great, and I love the range of movement they accommodate!  I use 
an old pair of LL Bean wool knickers, but they are better for hiking and 
skiing than cycling because of the shorter leg length.

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[RBW] ISO: The right rear rack

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I have a Nigel Smythe Country Bag which I want to provide support for, in 
some sort of specific ways:

   - I want to keep the bag snugged up to the saddle, so the rack needs to 
   adjust to different heights 
   - I don’t want the bag to sit on top of any tombstone/load-stopper, so 
   the rack also needs to adjust back to front. 
   - I want to use the mid seat stay braze-ons, not the ones on the 
   dropouts.  

 

I was originally planning on using a Mark’s Rack, but I’m also considering 
a Nitto R-14, and now I’m even wondering about the Pletscher Clem.  Has 
anyone configured it this way?

 

I like the idea of the Mark’s rack, being small and swappable to the front 
of the bike (I use a Rando bag on my other bike), but it’s out of stock 
everywhere.  The R-14 is a little big for what I need, but not unreasonably 
so.  The Pletscher is significantly bigger, but also cheaper and stronger 
and has more options for carrying stuff.  I don’t carry much in the bag and 
will mostly keep it attached to the seat and rack, but I’m willing to swap 
out for a different rack if I ever need to carry more.  The Pletscher could 
potentially fill both roles by changing the configuration when/if needed.  
Any thoughts?


-Eric

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[RBW] Re: Building out New Old Stock 2009 Sam Hillborne

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I've got it mostly built now, at least enough to take for a short test 
spin, and I can tell I am going to have a lot of fun on this bike!  I've 
got a temporary seatpost in it, and I just ordered bar tape, but I'll post 
pics when they are in place.  Also, having bar end shifters on the 
Albatross really opens up a second hand placement in the curves, which was 
awkward with the top mounted thumbies I had on them on the other bike.

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[RBW] Re: Building out New Old Stock 2009 Sam Hillborne

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Hi Bob,

For today's Sam I would definitely want the 58cm.  I took my sizing for 
this bike from the Rivendell Reader #41, which introduced the Sam, with the 
60cm being for PBH 87-94.  Mine is that original green color, but with a 
pewter colored head badge rather than gold, so I think it's from the early 
years but I don't know exactly which.  Serial number starts with M9 in case 
that means anything.  I'm putting Albatross bars on it, so I've got that 
angle covered :-)

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[RBW] Re: Building out New Old Stock 2009 Sam Hillborne

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Thanks for the extra feedback :-)

I'm still waiting on some parts I've bought, but man, this bike is huge!  
It feels similar in size to the 25" mid-80's Cannondale touring bike I used 
to have, which I loved but always felt a little big.  (My PBH is 89.5, so 
this is sized right according to Rivendell.)

What I didn't anticipate is that the lower bottom bracket brings the seat 
-- and therefore my saddle bag -- just close enough to the rear tire that I 
think I should probably get a rear rack for it.  Mark's Rack and the Nitto 
R10 look like good options, but may need to wait until I can find a used 
one for sale.  Does anyone have any other recommendations?



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[RBW] Re: FS: More Nitto! Stems and seatposts

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Hi, 

Is your Nitto S83 seatpost still available?  If so I would like to buy it.

(I tried replying directly, but got a bounceback.)

Best regards,
Eric

On Tuesday, August 7, 2018 at 3:05:19 AM UTC-7, Thomas Lynn Skean wrote:
>
> Tallux and Dirt Drop #1 are spoken for.
>
> Yours,
> Thomas Lynn Skean
>

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[RBW] Re: Building out New Old Stock 2009 Sam Hillborne

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

So, I looked around on the internet and found enough different opinions 
about running wrong size wheels on steel bikes that I decided to try to 
parse out those which clearly come from experience and knowledge.  In the 
spirit of sharing, here is my summary of internet wisdom on the topic: 

   - The right size is best, but a small difference, such as a 130mm hub in 
   135mm dropouts is usually fine. 
   - There are plenty of people who do this without issues for years, and 
   even bike shops that do this without concerns.  No one with experience 
   (that I could find) reported damage to a steel bike by doing this. 
   - One possible issue is that one chain stay might flex more than the 
   other.  If your wheel is centered, you’re ok. 
   - One possible issue is that you might need to adjust your rear 
   derailleur.   Try it and find out.  Possibly a bigger issue to those who 
   are swapping different spaced wheels on a regular basis than to those who 
   will just use the one size. 
   - One possible issue is that your dropouts might not be parallel 
   “enough”.  If you can tighten your quick-release enough to hold the wheel 
   solidly, then you’re ok. 
   - Your wheel will be a little harder to put in since you have to squeeze 
   or spread the stays each time. 

 I also called Rivendell and asked if they thought it was a problem to run 
130s in the 135 dropouts for a couple years, as long as the wheel was 
centered and I could close the quick-release solidly.  The response: it’ll 
be fine.

 

Alternatives:

   - Add/remove spacers under locknuts to both sides, and possibly replace 
   axle to match dropout spacing.  Typically $25-$30 for parts and labor at a 
   bike shop, so definitely worth considering. 
   - Similar to above, but just change spacers on one side and re-dish the 
   wheel.  Not for the inexperienced, or for those trying to save money. 

-Eric

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[RBW] Re: Building out New Old Stock 2009 Sam Hillborne

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

So, I looked around on the internet and found enough different opinions 
about running wrong size wheels on steel bikes that I decided to try to 
parse out those which clearly come from experience and knowledge.  In the 
spirit of sharing, here is my summary of internet wisdom on the topic:

 

   - The right size is best, but a small difference, such as a 130mm hub in 
   135mm dropouts is usually fine. 
   - There are plenty of people who do this without issues for years, and 
   even bike shops that do this without concerns.  No one with experience 
   (that I could find) reported damage to a steel bike by doing this. 
   - One possible issue is that one chain stay might flex more than the 
   other.  If your wheel is centered, you’re ok. 
   - One possible issue is that you might need to adjust your rear 
   derailleur.   Try it and find out.  Possibly a bigger issue to those who 
   are swapping different spaced wheels on a regular basis than to those who 
   will just use the one size. 
   - One possible issue is that your dropouts might not be parallel 
   “enough”.  If you can tighten your quick-release enough to hold the wheel 
   solidly, then you’re ok. 
   - Your wheel will be a little harder to put in since you have to squeeze 
   or spread the stays each time. 

 

I also called Rivendell and asked if they thought it was a problem to run 
130s in the 135 dropouts for a couple years, as long as the wheel was 
centered and I could close the quick-release solidly.  The response: it’ll 
be fine. 

 

Alternatives:

   - Add/remove spacers under locknuts to both sides, and possibly replace 
   axle to match dropout spacing.  Typically $25-$30 for parts and labor at a 
   bike shop, so definitely worth considering. 
   - Similar to above, but just change spacers on one side and re-dish the 
   wheel.  Not for the inexperienced, or for those trying to save money. 

 

-Eric

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[RBW] Re: Building out New Old Stock 2009 Sam Hillborne

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Hi Ginz,

Yes, the XO uses a 47.5mm chain line.  Rear wheel is a Shimano 300LX hub, 
with a Shimano 7sp cassette. (The front hub still has the sticker on it, 
and that says Exage HB-RM50). 

Do you think I should add washers to the axle to get closer to 135mm?

Thanks,
Eric

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[RBW] Re: Building out New Old Stock 2009 Sam Hillborne

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Thanks for the feedback and advice!  It’s nice to know I won’t be seen as 
too gauche using old parts on this frame :-)


The old bottom bracket is definitely asymmetrical.   My digital calipers 
think it is 119.63 overall, 19.36 on the left and 23.72 on the right, but 
Sheldon Brown says 121 mm BB.  Let’s go with Sheldon on this.  Since the 
measured asymmetry is a little over 4mm, shouldn’t I add that to 121, and 
go with the 68x127.5?


Ginz, I was going to use the 130mm/7spd wheel that came on the bike too.  I 
didn't have any problem getting the Sam to close up to 130mm, but I'm 
willing to add spacers if that's a good idea.


-Eric

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[RBW] Building out New Old Stock 2009 Sam Hillborne

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Hi,

I just bought a New Old Stock 2009 Sam Hillborne 60cm frame, and am going 
through the travails of building it out.  This is my first Rivendell and 
I'm pretty excited about it, but it is also my first full build and I'm 
finding out all sorts of stuff I didn't know.

It feels slightly sacrilegious to say this, but I was hoping to use some 
used drivetrain parts I already have, so I can start riding the Sam 
sooner.  I'd love some shiny new parts but I just spent more than I 
intended on a frame.  Do other RBW owners use older parts, or is that more 
of classic and vintage thing?  The parts I'm hoping to use are Shimano 
Exage 300LX parts from a barely used 1992 XO-3.  The main problem now is 
the that the bottom bracket in the bike is too short, so the crank would 
rub the chainstay.  On the other hand, I think the grease is all dried up 
in there, so it might be just as easy to replace it as fix it.

Advice and opinions are welcome!


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