Re: [RBW] Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-29 Thread Christopher Paul
Just had the same problem with a bike that I built for my son.  Brought the
bike into an LBS and discovered that the seat tube was out of spec. It was
27.4 instead of 27.2.  They cut a shim for me as a temporary fix and it
didn't work, even though it was the right thickness of .2 mm.  Fortunately,
they make 27.4 seat posts and I got a hold of one  but that even slipped.
Then I changed the seat post collar from a fancy thin titanium type to a
wider one and cinched it tight. Voila, finally the seat post didn't budge.

On Mon, Apr 27, 2015 at 7:17 AM, Kevin Lindsey lindsey.ke...@gmail.com
wrote:

 Just finished building my Hunqapillar over the weekend and rode it 20+
 miles to work this morning.  Although still too early to tell, it has my
 very favorite bike stamped all over it.
 With one possible exception:  I can't get the seatpost to stop slipping
 down.  Despite tightening the bolt to so hard that the allen hole is
 starting to strip, it still inches down as I ride, and we had to stop six
 times on the ride in this morning to raise the seat back up.  Very
 frustrating.  I had thought that maybe the brake cable hanger was
 interfering with the seat tube somehow, but I don't see how that can be
 avoided, given the shape of the hanger and the fact that it has to remain
 attached to the seatpost bolt.
 Has anyone else experienced this problem?
 Best to all,
 Kevin

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Re: [RBW] FS: 53cm Heron Wayfarer F/F/HS $700 + shipping

2012-09-17 Thread Christopher Paul
ha ha!  I completely can relate to that feeling!

On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 7:25 PM, Dan Abelson d...@abelsons.net wrote:
 Must resist.  I hate when people sell nice bikes in my size,
 especially when I don't need any more bikes right now.

 Dan Abelson
 St. Paul, MN

 On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 5:43 PM, danmc djmcnam...@gmail.com wrote:
 Decided to sell the Heron that I was going to build out for my wife for
 touring - but she is too hooked on her Betty Foy. See, I can put a lowrider
 on the Betty, no problem!

 Anyway, the frame is in great shape. A few very minor paint dings and a
 decal scratch. All straight, no dents or anything. Bailey Falls Blue is the
 color. An interesting dark blue/green metallic. I have a bottle of touch up
 paint for it from Waterford and an extra decal set.

 Stronglight A9 alloy headset with both sealed and needle bearing set. The
 sealed bearings are installed - the needle bearing set is new and unused.

 This is a really great frame for all around riding or loaded touring. Very
 comfortable and stable yet pretty lively thanks to the geo and the tubing
 selection. 26 wheels on the 53cm frame.

 Grant design and Waterford build. The Wayfarer is basically the Heron
 Touring frame with these changes:
 • Features a new, heavy-duty fork equipped with mid-fork braze-ons for
 low-rider rack mounting.
 • New stainless steel dropouts are left bare on the mounting surfaces to
 prevent paint damage from quick release skewers and hubs.
 • The chainstay bridge is positioned the same distance from the rear axle as
 the seatstay bridge to provide a cleaner fender installation.
 • The seatstay and chainstay bridges provide braze-ons for simple, direct
 fender mounting.

 The 53cm will fit a saddle height of ~66 to 69cm. Depends how much post you
 want to show.

 Pictures can be found here:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/78804025@N08/sets/72157631529864164

 Lots of info available thanks to the internet archive.

 Sizing:
 http://web.archive.org/web/20061029010038/http://www.heronbicycles.com/sizing.html

 Tubing/history/specs:
 http://web.archive.org/web/20061029005905/http://www.heronbicycles.com/faq.html

 Geo:
 http://web.archive.org/web/20061029010109/http://www.heronbicycles.com/geometry.html

 Colors:
 http://web.archive.org/web/20061029005853/http://www.heronbicycles.com/colors.html

 Heron Models:
 http://web.archive.org/web/20061029010028/http://www.heronbicycles.com/frames.html

 PayPal personal, please. I am in the SF Bay Area (Marin  Berkeley) so a
 pickup or delivery/meeting is very possible.

 Email off-list if you are interested or have questions.

 Thanks

 Dan

 Marin CA


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Re: [RBW] Half Moon Bay S240 with the Lady friend

2012-09-04 Thread Christopher Paul
Great photos by the beach!  It was nice that you had so much beach to yourself!
One image almost looks like a desert except with water.  The next time
I ride by the area, I'll see it with a new perspective...

On Tue, Sep 4, 2012 at 12:34 PM, Manuel Acosta
manueljohnaco...@hotmail.com wrote:
 They say happiness is best when shared.
 Over the weekend got to share one of my favorite activities, bike camping,
 with the lady friend. The last camp trip we had turned out to be a disaster,
 so I was quite surprised when she said she was interested in doing some
 biking camping at Half Moon Bay State Beach. The ultimate goal was to have
 her leave with a great experience so I wanted to easy her into the whole
 experience. We drove and parked 3 miles away from the state beach and rode
 in with all the non camping stuff that would make her comfortable. Extra
 shoes, blankets, pillows, etc. At the campsite I expected a ton of cyclists
 touring down the coast and Half Moon Bay State Beach didn't disappoint.
 There was a good 15 groups of cyclists touring just about everywhere. We
 weren't even the only ones who bike/car camped. There was a family that
 brought their 3 month year old son and their 3 year old son bike camping via
 bike trailers. We shared a fire with a handful of the other campers and
 shared stories. We woke up in complete fog that burnt off in an hour that
 offered this amazing glow to the already beautiful scenery. She enjoyed her
 first bike camping trip and I enjoyed her company.

 On a side adventure:
 Afterwords got to spend some time with the family who wanted to go biking
 through Lake Chabot. Like typical family bike rides now we all switch bikes.
 My little brother was riding my bike up a pretty steep tells me that the
 rear derailleur is shifting weird. Thinking that it was no big deal I switch
 bikes with him. While riding down to push my mom up the hill the rear
 derailleur shifts into the spokes and bends the rear hanger. Rear derailleur
 is shot  and the hanger in pretty bent. Bringing it to Rivendell. 3 months
 and I'm already breaking things.

 Pictures prove that I break everything I touch:
 http://flic.kr/s/aHsjBUQpo9

 -Manny Don't shift into the spokes Acosta

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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone experienced with back surgery?

2012-07-02 Thread Christopher Paul
I want to thank all of those who shared their personal experience.  As
a result I don't feel so alone and have some hope and good points to
follow.   My spinal cord got nicked in procedure and had to be sewn
up.  This wrinkle limits my physical activity in the short run.
Tomorrow I will get the staples removed from my back and I'll ask for
my PT's contact information.

Chris



On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 10:17 AM, SteveD stephendem...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi Chris,

 I'm 56 and had a percutaneous (sp?) disectomy and lower lombar lamenectomy
 done in 1987. I took two to three months out before doing anything to
 strenous, except for mounting my bike on a trainer and riding for about 20
 minutes a night for a few weeks until confident to take the bike out for a
 real ride; I hate riding in doors. Caveats to these surgeries, don't plan
 on doing any heavy lifting, and if you have to, use your legs. Every few
 years my back locks up after doing too much yard work or doing something
 stupid like lifting a heavy, and I mean a large, potted plant off our cedar
 deck. When this happens, I make a beeline to the doc for muscle relaxers and
 pain killers, which I take for a few days, and I'm back in action. Again,
 this only happens once every so often, like every 4 to 5 years.

 Yeah, I was concerned about having the surgery, but the sciatica is gone and
 I have to be careful lifting. As for bicycling, I commute to work on my
 Atlantis pretty much every day. And last year I rode a bunch of 100Ks and
 the Seattle Century without any discomfort. But, I gave a lot of attention
 to bicycle fit, and that's where keeping the seat just below the handle bars
 comes into play. Stay away from an aggressive, racer riding position. It'll
 kill your back.

 So, it's all doable. Initially you have to be patient and let your back
 heal, and start a low-level riding regimen (check with your PT about this),
 and above all else, be very conscious of how you do things with your back.

 -Steve DeMont
 Seattle


 On Sunday, July 1, 2012 4:28:15 PM UTC-7, zrainryder wrote:

 Greetings all,

 I want try my luck with this vast knowledge bank...

 I have been suffering from sciatica for the last 5 years.   I had a
 couple of epidurals and that helped and little else.
 I have no problem when sitting down or riding.  I have ridden several
 centuries this year and am otherwise healthy.  When I have had to
 stand for more than a minute, the pain kicks in.

 Last week I had a foraminotomy and a laminectomy.   I feel like I've
 been reborn!  No more waking up and reaching for the tylenol.
 Now I'm going stir crazy from not riding my bike.   Of course I don't
 want to screw up a successful surgery, but I'm in agony waiting and
 waiting.

 Any thoughts as to when the earliest sensible time to get back in the
 saddle?

 By the way, my health provider did everything to discourage me from
 getting this procedure.   Shame on them!  I feel I suffered needlessly
 for at least 4 years from listening to bad advise.

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[RBW] Anyone experienced with back surgery?

2012-07-01 Thread Christopher Paul
Greetings all,

I want try my luck with this vast knowledge bank...

I have been suffering from sciatica for the last 5 years.   I had a
couple of epidurals and that helped and little else.
I have no problem when sitting down or riding.  I have ridden several
centuries this year and am otherwise healthy.  When I have had to
stand for more than a minute, the pain kicks in.

Last week I had a foraminotomy and a laminectomy.   I feel like I've
been reborn!  No more waking up and reaching for the tylenol.
Now I'm going stir crazy from not riding my bike.   Of course I don't
want to screw up a successful surgery, but I'm in agony waiting and
waiting.

Any thoughts as to when the earliest sensible time to get back in the saddle?

By the way, my health provider did everything to discourage me from
getting this procedure.   Shame on them!  I feel I suffered needlessly
for at least 4 years from listening to bad advise.

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Re: [RBW] Anyone experienced with back surgery?

2012-07-01 Thread Christopher Paul
Lyle,
Thanks for the encouraging words!
Chris

On Sun, Jul 1, 2012 at 5:47 PM, Lyle Bogart lylebog...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi Christopher,

 Congratulations on a successful back surgery! Don't be too harsh on your
 health provider: research shows that a successful outcome (i.e.,
 resolution of back pain, radicular symptoms, restoration of function)  is a
 50/50 proposition.

 The typical healing time for these things is about 4-6 weeks. Now, in the
 case of a cyclist, if I were your physical therapist, I'd have you on a
 stationary bike as soon as you're able. For safety's sake, due to the time
 course of healing (again 4-6 weeks), I'd caution against actually riding for
 several more weeks at least--no point buggering things up if something
 unforeseen occurs! Also, I'd caution against being too aggressive in your
 exercise in the early stages of healing. There will very likely be some
 swelling, some pain, perhaps some mild sciatica. Make haste slowly, as they
 say.

 In the long run, however, you should have no issues at all. It's been
 decades since my multi-level laminectomy (necessitated due to a bike vs.
 lumber truck encounter) and I've had no problems at all provided I keep
 myself fit and strong.

 Again, congratulations and best of luck!

 lyle

 --
 lyle f bogart dpt

 156 bradford rd
 wiscasset, me 04578
 207.882.6494
 206.794.6937


 On 1 July 2012 19:28, Christopher Paul zdree...@gmail.com wrote:

 Greetings all,

 I want try my luck with this vast knowledge bank...

 I have been suffering from sciatica for the last 5 years.   I had a
 couple of epidurals and that helped and little else.
 I have no problem when sitting down or riding.  I have ridden several
 centuries this year and am otherwise healthy.  When I have had to
 stand for more than a minute, the pain kicks in.

 Last week I had a foraminotomy and a laminectomy.   I feel like I've
 been reborn!  No more waking up and reaching for the tylenol.
 Now I'm going stir crazy from not riding my bike.   Of course I don't
 want to screw up a successful surgery, but I'm in agony waiting and
 waiting.

 Any thoughts as to when the earliest sensible time to get back in the
 saddle?

 By the way, my health provider did everything to discourage me from
 getting this procedure.   Shame on them!  I feel I suffered needlessly
 for at least 4 years from listening to bad advise.

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[RBW] Break in period for factory wheels?

2011-05-09 Thread Christopher Paul
I recently got some nice Dura Ace road wheels and I like them.  They
spin smooth and are somewhat aero.  I feel a lot fresher after rides
(I was riding on Mavic Ksyrium Elites before).  I was wondering, if
wheels improve over time or miles?   Is there a general break in
period like 500 miles for example?  Somewhere I recall reading
something about bearings needing time for something...

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Re: [RBW] Front derailer for 48-38-24: Shimano, Campy, IRD?

2011-05-09 Thread Christopher Paul
For a 9 speed the Shimano 105 works best, even better than the ultegra
triples.   Shimano's front derailleur has a maximum range of 22 teeth.
Your 48 to 24 range is 2 teeth beyond the official limit.  No
problem, I run a 50 large ring to a 26 granny gear which is also a 24
tooth spread.  You'll find the 105 to be the best although other
derailleurs such as the xt, ultegra etc. will also do the job..


On Sat, May 7, 2011 at 11:45 AM, BCDrums bcdr...@comcast.net wrote:
 My bike has a Shimano XT front derailer from 1990. It has given good
 service, but I'd like to change it out. Rivendell and Harris Cyclery
 sell the IRD for this setup. I have read raves about the Campy Racing
 T, but it seems to be gone. I am not sure which Shimano is the
 appropriate replacement.

 I read somewhere that the IRD is a copy of an Ultegra, is that the
 case?

 I shift with Shimano bar-ends, and my bike has 1.25 tubes. Since I
 only change front ders every 20 years, I'd like to get a great one and
 be done with it. Any recommendations appreciated!

 BC

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[RBW] Adding grommet holes to steel bikes question

2010-03-30 Thread Christopher Paul
Greetings 2 all,

Is it ok to have front rack holes drilled into a steel fork ?  Also,
is it ok to drill holes for a water bottle cage on the bottom of a
steel down tube for a 3rd water bottle?

any thoughts on this will be appreciated!

Chris

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Re: [RBW] Rim / Spoke Cracks... Should I be concerned?

2010-03-29 Thread Christopher Paul
Hello Rick,

About 6 weeks ago I was on a club ride descending a local hill
(Shannon-Kennedy) behind a ride leader who went down. Miraculously he
didn't break anything (although he told me the flesh part of his hand
and hip are still tender).  Afterward he said he heard a seemingly
innocuous creaking.  After he went down his wheel was disfigured with
a rim bent all out of shape.  Upon closer inspection there was a crack
by his spokes that looked just like yours!

You never know when this might fail. You are blessed to discover it
without a related accident!

Cheers!
Chris


On Sat, Mar 27, 2010 at 1:34 PM, Rick Smith rick_sm...@sulfurstar.com wrote:
 Discovered these while cleaning the Saluki's rims today:

 http://m.flickr.com/?done=1id=4468086048magic_cookie=60a853592b9cce68b74f0172dda07f87title=Spoke+crackdescription=#/photos/74396...@n00/4468088476/

 http://m.flickr.com/?done=1id=4468086048magic_cookie=60a853592b9cce68b74f0172dda07f87title=Spoke+crackdescription=#/photos/74396...@n00/4467312843/

 http://m.flickr.com/?done=1id=4468086048magic_cookie=60a853592b9cce68b74f0172dda07f87title=Spoke+crackdescription=#/photos/74396...@n00/4468086048/

 Is it beausage or time to replace the rims?

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Re: [RBW] Brooks B17 Pre-aged vs. standard

2010-03-29 Thread Christopher Paul
Hi Rene,

I got a pre-aged brooks on a Raliegh One- Way bike. I had tried
unsuccessfully to break in a conventional b-17.  I was skeptical of
that the pre-aged version would make a difference.  However, it was
instantly comfortable.  I don't know how it will hold up. I have a lot
of bikes, so I don't know whether I will ride this frequently enough
to really test it.  Most of my road bikes have the terry liberator
saddle, which is ok for both upright riding, and for going into the
drops.

Cheers!
Chris

On Mon, Mar 29, 2010 at 12:00 AM, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:
 Does anyone know why the B17 pre-aged looks to have a flat top on catalog
 pictures but all the other variations of the B17 have the curved top that
 forces the nose to be pointed upwards so the rear is flat and level and one
 doesn't slide forward? Is it any better or more comfortable? Longer lasting
 or not?
 I've managed to set my B17 saddles so I no longer slide forward, but the
 nose up prevents me from bending forward too much. Not generally an issue as
 I'm riding more upright with my Rivendell bikes, but I'm curious about the
 flat top of the pre-aged version.
 Would it be as comfortable and avoid the nose up configuration?
 Any feedback will be appreciated!
 René

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[RBW] another downside to carbon fiber bikes?

2010-03-22 Thread Christopher Paul
A friend of mine was in a long distance training ride last Saturday
and hit a pothole and crashed.  She broke a few ribs and a clavicle.
I wasn't there so I can only go by what has been relayed to me.  She
was riding a Specialized womens specific design carbon fiber bike at
the time.  I know her to be a good rider so I found the incident to be
a bit unnerving.

I had two incidents about 3 years ago when I owned a race oriented
carbon fiber Kestrel Evoke.  This was a fast riding bike.  One time
while descending on the Calaverous wall I braked because I forgot
whether I should make a left turn or right and subsequently flipped
over.  Another incident was when I hit a road divider in the Saratoga
maze at dusk and flipped over.  I recall thinking in both incidents,
I shouldn't have flipped!  Granted there was rider error in both of
my flips.  However, I felt the compact frame combined with the
stiffness of the frame compounded the dynamics and propensity to
flip.

I am riding steel and titanium bikes now with long wheel bases and
feel more secure.  My friends accident made me wonder, would she have
lost control had she been riding a non carbon fiber bike?  Have there
been any studies on this? I don't think its just my imagination that
carbon fiber bikes have a greater propensity for losing control than
non carbon fiber bikes.  Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

Cheers,
Chris

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Re: [RBW] Re: another downside to carbon fiber bikes?

2010-03-22 Thread Christopher Paul
I don't know about that.  Consider running over a pothole, -not a
pleasant experience no matter what you are riding.  The thud from a
carbon fiber feels sharper, where as with steel I feel more rattled.

On Mon, Mar 22, 2010 at 4:42 PM, Brad Gantt brdg...@gmail.com wrote:
 That's too bad. Glad it wasn't worse though. Accidents like this are a
 function of geometry, body position, speed, stopping force and a bunch
 of other math. It is not a function of material, however.

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Re: [RBW] Rack on Rambouillet

2010-01-24 Thread Christopher Paul
I use an elegant tubus Luna.  It is designed for light loads, however
I have used it on my rambouillet  packed with tent, sleeping bag,  air
mattress,  clothes (all light weight models) and was a sheer joy.
Will do it again this summer!

Cheers,
Chris

On Sun, Jan 24, 2010 at 7:10 AM, George Strickler chobur...@gmail.com wrote:
 I am contemplating a 10-14 day trip this summer using plastic and
 sleeping in beds.  I would like to use my Rambouillet but I think I
 need to carry a bit more than will go in my handlebar bag which is the
 only bag I've ever used with the bike.  I have another bike set up for
 heavy loads.  I know the Ram is not designed for carrying a lot of
 rear weight but I was thinking that a smallish set of panniers on a
 rear rack would work.  Recommendations for a rack or should I go low
 riders in the front?

 --
 GeorgeS

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Re: [RBW] Tire Comparison: Grand Bois 30s vs Pasela 32s

2010-01-16 Thread Christopher Paul
Funny thing about the Grand Bois...
Got them for my Bleriot 650b in the 32 and absolutely love them.  I
jumped at the 30's for the Rambouillet when I learned about them.  For
some reason the ride quality didn't improve on the Rambouillet, in
fact it was diminished.  A real disappointment, so I sold them on
ebay.  Then the Buyer pointed out that the casing was crooked on one
tire, so I refunded him the cost he paid for the one of the two tires
and all was well. I have also used the pasela's (in the 28's) and
found them much better than the Grand Bois 30 (comfort, price, and
longevity).

Just a data point for your reference.

Cheers,
Chris

On Sat, Jan 16, 2010 at 4:37 PM, Hondo m...@rivertownl.com wrote:
 To go on my Hilsen. Any feedback concerning ride comfort, quality,
 durability etc., would be most appreciated.

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Re: [RBW] Cold weather commuting clothing?

2009-12-07 Thread Christopher Paul
Greetings to all cold  wet weather riders!

Last year I was riding with a gentleman twice my age (86 years young)
in the rain and he was dry and cheerful while I was cold  not so
cheerful.  He convinced me to get a polypropelyne jacket with a hood.
I did and it was the best $20 I have ever spent (I was lucky  got it
on sale at our lbs).  What makes this unique is that it breathes and
its waterproof.  Plus it actually works. It come with a stuff sack, so
its packs up into a small and convenient size.  The one I have has a
label that simply says RSI.

Does anyone have any good ideas for finding good deals on wool t-shirt
base layers?  I'm stunned at how much these things are going for!

Cheers!
Chris



On Sun, Dec 6, 2009 at 8:18 PM, kent broken.cy...@gmail.com wrote:
 The standard cold weather equation is a warm, wicking base layer, an
 insulating layer and then a wind/waterproof shell.  Even hardcore
 synthetics fans would agree that wool makes a good base or mid layer,
 but most would swear by GoreTex and its descendants for the outer
 layer.  What do you wear on top in the cold and/or wet?

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[RBW] Re: Drivetrain question... AHH with 9 vs 10 speeds...

2009-11-17 Thread Christopher Paul

Drive train question: Shimano vs. Sram

I have both in 9 speed versions (Sram red 11-34 and Shimano xtr
11-32).  Both are great.  I'm replacing most cassettes with Sram 
sram chains because they are easier to change (chain) and the price is
a little better.  Nine speeds are a little sturdier because of the
extra width.  However, if a great discount is available on Shimano, no
problem.

Imho, there is no substative benefit going bigger than a 34 in your
situation because that would produce a negative ratio.  That means you
would have to spin more than 1 revolution to turn wheels around once.

Anyway, try any one and see for yourself.  At some point you'll have
to replace it (as they wear out) and you can always change it the next
time to match your own experience.

Don't worry-be happy!


On 11/14/09, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:
 Even though this may be a polarizing subject, I'd like to get solid
 arguments to answer this question and support a decision:

 When I bought my AHH frame, I built it up with the Sram Rival 10 speed
 drivetrain I had on my Gunnar. I just bought the Sram aluminum bar-end
 shifters and used the other parts:
 - Compact crankset 34/50
 - 11/28 10 speed cassette
 - Sram Rival front  rear derailers.

 At the time, I was told that to make climbs easier, I could go with the
 newer 11-36 Sram XX rear cassette (I'm 264 lbs now). Researching prices,
 however, shows that I'd also need to replace the rear derailer and the total
 sum of the upgrade would be $593.00, which seems pretty steep. I then
 proceeded to research the alternatives, and came out with a very nice change
 to a Sugino/Shimano 9 speed drivetrain change that includes the new Shimano
 12-36 9 speed cassette and comes up to $625. If instead I use an spare 11-34
 rear cassette I have, the total comes to around $575.00.

 Factor in the following elements:
 - Cost of replacing the rear cassette, Sram XX @ $328 vs. Shimano @ $60 or
 so...
 - Durability of the rear cassette, Sram XX - unknown and developed for
 racing vs. Shimano - well known and multiple options available.
 - I'm not worrying about weight, since I'm the one who has to lose it...

 Does it make sense to switch to a complete 9 speed drivetrain and sell the
 Sram Rival drivetrain, which would help lower the cost of the switch? I seem
 to think so, but wanted to get your opinions and feedback.

 Thank you all!

 René
 orthie...@yahoo.com
 


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[RBW] Re: Riv geometry and clipless

2009-10-20 Thread Christopher Paul

First question, exactly what kind of pedals are you using?
Secondly, the position of the cleat can cause knee, back  other
issues (such as hot foot) if not angled and positioned correctly
(including the fore and aft).  If you can't snap in, I have to wonder
if the cleats and pedals are properly matched.
Cheers,
Chris

On Tue, Oct 20, 2009 at 5:03 PM, Tim McNamara tim...@bitstream.net wrote:


 On Oct 20, 2009, at 6:13 PM, J L wrote:

 I have a curious situation.  I can't seem to get clipless shoes
 (neither shimano spd nor keen clipless sandals) to work with my
 road standard.  Would the geometry have this great an effect in
 combination with snapping in?

 I can think of no reason that the frame geometry would have the
 slightest effect on being able to engage or disengage the cleats.

 clipless for a short ride = ankle tenderness inside of leg, usually
 one, but sometimes both legs.
 same bike, just pedals switched to road pedals and toe clips, same
 ride = no pain.

 I think this pain/tenderness is caused by the restriction of motion
 that these pedals have - I am somehow repeating the same movement
 over and over which leads to an overworked tendon.  My question is:
 how to a probelm solve and find a solution?  I want to ride
 clipless, there really isn't any reason it shouldn't work with this
 setup. I rode before with the same pedals and shoes on other bikes,
 no probelms.

 Would it be the frame?

 Extremely unlikely.  The only thing I can think of here is if the
 frame has been bent so that the bottom bracket is not perpendicular
 to the plane of the bike.

 What else should I check?

 I did some testing and the strain happens when my heel is moved
 outward away from the bike creating a pidgeon toed riding
 stance.  Could changing the cleat angle help this out?

 Maybe.  It'd be quick and easy to rule out.

 Is the Q factor of the crank much different than the Q factor of the
 other cranks you have used with these shoes and pedals?  If the
 cranks are much narrower, that might strain the ligaments on the
 medial aspect of your ankle(s) a bit.  Some folks need a wider Q
 factor than others.

 Or you might need a shim under the inside or outside of the cleat to
 lift the shoe and correct a problem with pronation or supination.

 Are these shoes perhaps quite old and knackered?  Are the cleats new,
 or have they been moved from when you've previously used them?

 Might be reasonable to get a professional fitting using a Fit Kit, if
 that's available in your area.

 


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[RBW] Re: SS Recommendations

2009-09-25 Thread Christopher Paul

I'd like to add my 2 cents in on the S  S addition.  I had it done on
my Bleriot in 2005.  It cost under $400 and included the cable
spliters and coupler wrench.  To get that price I agreed to give frame
builder just the frame pre-prepped. That meant I had to strip the
paint at the places where the cuts were to be made. He didn't want to
inhale the fumes during the cutting process.   It is a gut wrenching
experience to watch your new frame's paint bubble and the ugly mess
that follows.  After it got done (the couplers installed), I brought
it to my local auto body shop and they repainted the two tubes with a
PERFECT PAINT MATCH!.  We are talking about a turqoise blue.  They
charged me $100.   Auto body shops are wizards at paint matching and
if you get the bid in beforehand, you can save some money.  Another
trivial point, the Bleriot has non standard tube sizes, which wasn't
realized until after the cut was made.   Fortunately, this frame
builder had the patience to get the job done.  Final point, both the
frame builder and auto body shop were very professional and not one
decal was disturbed.  Bottom line is you can get the job done and it
doesn't have to cost you an arm and a leg.

cheers,
Chris

On Wed, Sep 23, 2009 at 8:41 PM, AJ flyfisherman.cad...@gmail.com wrote:

 Howdy folks,

 I'd like to take my Rambo along with me on trips, it looks like SS
 couplers are the way to go.  Interested hearing from the group whose
 gone through the retrofitting process i.e. coupler installers, paint
 option chosen, decal replacement etc.

 Many thanks in advance.
 AJ
 


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[RBW] Re: Considering an AHH - Advice sought

2009-09-03 Thread Christopher Paul

Eric,

If you are new to riding, no matter what bike you ride (including
carbon fiber), you will most likely be slower than your friends when
climbing.   Cycling over time develops your cardio vascular fitness.
The more you do it the better and stronger you get.  One advantage you
will enjoy with a typical Rivendell built bike is a touring drive
train.  That will maximize your chances of getting to the top on your
bike (without having to walk it).  The biggest advantage will be fit
and comfort. I've gone through a lot of bikes and learned one
important lesson among others.  Comfort trumps all other factors,
including frame material, components etc.   You will not go wrong with
choosing a Rivendell.  Focus on comfort now.  Btw, bar ends are great,
and are more reliable.  When you are riding, they will be a non issue.
 STI shifters will not degrade your ride even though over time they
can be finicky and more fragile. Bar ends are better and certainly
less expensive.  Not a tough decision here.  Ok, say you get a AHH, it
fits and you find yourself having fun and getting fit.  The final
question is what saddle will you pick?  I used to dislike brooks
saddles (because of the break in period).  I recently bought a bike
with an aged brooks saddle that I had planned to sell off, until I
discovered how comfortable it was.  Anyway, the process is selecting
and choosing a bike is fun.  Riding is even more fun.   So go out and
have some fun!

Cheers!
Chris

On Mon, Aug 31, 2009 at 12:55 PM, Erikelang...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hi all:

 I am in the market for a lugged steel frame, and am about ready to
 pull the trigger on an A. Homer Hilsen.  Based on my needs (described
 below), I would greatly appreciate any guidance as to whether or not
 this is the right bike for me, and how I might choose the right
 tires.

 I live in Boulder and plan to use the bike primarily for road riding
 in/around Colorado, so there will be a significant amount of climbing
 involved.  There are also quite a few gravel paths that I would like
 to take advantage of around my house.  I have no experience camping or
 doing longer multi-day trips, but the concept intrigues me.
 Basically, I do not currently own a bicycle, so I want this bike to
 serve all of my needs.

 My largest concern is this: most of my friends and neighbors go on 3 -
 4 hour rides up into the mountains on their super-light carbon
 frames.  Is there a way for me to set up the AHH so that it is
 functional on mellow gravel roads, but also keeps up with my friends
 on the steep climbs?  Will a 32 tire work for this?  I would prefer to
 only own one set of tires if this is possible.

 And I am leaning towards building the bike with bar-end shifters.  Any
 reason I should consider otherwise?

 Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 Cheers.

 


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[RBW] Just a bike fantasy

2009-08-31 Thread Christopher Paul

Since I'm working without pay these days, my best moments (when not
riding) are pondering bike fantasies.  Now I love Rivendell geometry.
I also love titanium.  Who in the universe could clone a Rivendell in
titanium if my ship should somehow or someway come in?  I don't want
to violate any intellectual property. Just want to have a dream
machine!  Is that so unreasonable?

Cheers!
Chris

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[RBW] Re: For Sale: bits from Nitto, MKS, Shimano, Grand Bois

2009-08-15 Thread Christopher Paul

Hi Gino,

Will you take pay pal?

I'm interested in buying your Nitto Noodle bar and MKS touring lite
pedals. Please let me know what is available and I'll send you payment
plus shipping.

Thanks,
Chris Mok

On Mon, Aug 10, 2009 at 5:53 PM, Gino Zahndginoza...@gmail.com wrote:

 • Shimano BR400 brake levers (2 sets)  $15/ea

 • NItto crystal fellow seatpost $40

 • 44cm Nitto Noodle bar $30

 • MKS Touring Lite pedals $30

 • Shimano BR-4550 sidepull standard reach (45-57mm) brakes $30

 • Bar/stem Kit:  44cm Nitto Soba bar with Nitto Lugged Stem (9cm),
 Shimano brake levers and plum bar tape.
 Pic here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/gzahnd/3352703418/sizes/l/   $200

 • brand new Grand Bois Ourson tire (one tire) $58

 Everything is in excellent used condition, except the tire, which is
 new. Shipping costs will be determined from Chico, CA 95926.


 Thanks,
 Gino

 


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[RBW] Re: Crank arm length on Bleriot

2009-07-08 Thread Christopher Paul

Most Bleriot Owners have experienced pedal strike at one time or
another. It last happened to me about 3 years ago while pedaling
through a turn.  Obviously, I don't lean and pedal on this bike.  I
also use 170 crank arms, however I use Shimano spd pedals.  I don't
even think about it anymore.
Cheers,
Chris

On Tue, Jul 7, 2009 at 9:37 PM, colin p.
cummingscolinthehip...@gmail.com wrote:

 Bleriot Riders,

 I'm riding a 59 with sneaker pedals and am growing irritated with
 pedal strike.  This happened just today on a mild turn.  Sure my
 riding ability's not fantastic, but I'm wondering if I should switch
 to a 165 crank from my 170.  Will that 5mm make much difference?  Will
 narrower pedals help much?  Experiences please...

 Cheers,

 Colin Cummings
 Amarillo, TX
 


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[RBW] Re: new Riv road bike, and my unwanted input for another

2009-07-08 Thread Christopher Paul

Ditto, I love my Ramboiullet too!  I use this for all rides, including
fast club rides, centuries and touring (so far a week at a time).  The
Ram is not too heavy nor is it too light.  I think Grant got it right
with this one.  I was surprised when it was taken out of the line up.
I imagine the costs of producing it Japan may have had something to do
with it.  The Ram is a lifetime bike!  I can't imagine being in the
bike business without having the Ramboiulett's space covered.
Cheers!
Chris
On Tue, Jul 7, 2009 at 12:41 PM, MichaelHmhech...@gmail.com wrote:

 I love my Rambouillet!  I can put a small handle bar bag or a decent
 size saddle bag and carry quite a bit, but it really shines on the
 long club rides in the mountains - comfy, fast, climbs nicely, and
 desends fast and steady, great all around road manners.  I don't need
 a new bike but I'm glad others will have the opportunity to experience
 the joy of the pure road bike.
 Michael

 On Jul 7, 3:00 pm, rcnute rcn...@hotmail.com wrote:
 Me too.  Funny how the desire for skinny tires and low handlebars
 seems to spring up this time of year... :)

 On Jul 7, 10:58 am, Esteban proto...@gmail.com wrote:



  Great news.  A pure road bike would be perfect.

  From the Riv Road and Long Low thinking comes the Ram/Rom/Redwood,
  which, like Jim wrote, detours through 650B country bike riding, and
  vectors toward the Hilsen, Hillborne --- Atlantis.  Now back to a
  lugged steel road bike for club riding and all business hard
  efforts.  Kind of makes me want to take the Jack Browns off my Romulus
  and put the 28s Paselas back on.

  Or, perhaps like Dustin, I'm watching too much of Le Tour.

  Esteban
  San Diego, Calif.

  On Jul 7, 8:59 am, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:

   That's really interesting news.  I recall when the Rambouillet came out, 
   it
   seemed so dramatic to have the clearances that it did. From there, the
   evolution of interest in 650B/584 pushed the development of large volume
   700C/622 tires, which, in turn gave us the Hilsen.  (And from the 
   Hilsen, we
   now have the Hillborne, et. al.)

   Once the limit stake got driven into the ground with the big clearance 
   frame
   with large volume tires, it seems like it let them refine the lineup in 
   the
   opposite direction. The idea of a new design, with all that GP has 
   learned
   in the ensuing years, will be very exciting to see.

   Anyone who has followed this or the iBob list has heard the lamenting at 
   the
   loss of the Rambouillet.  Based on what folks wished for, it seems like
   the  (new design)... will bring all that and a bag of chips.

   Darned good news!

   - J

   --
   Jim Edgar
   cyclofi...@earthlink.net

   Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
   Current Classics - Cross Bikes
   Singlespeed - Working Bikes

   Your Photos are needed! - Send them here 
   -http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines

   I threw one leg over my battle-scarred all-terrain stump-jumper and rode
   several miles to work. I'd sprayed it with some cheap gold paint so it
   wouldn't look nice. Locked my bike to a radiator, because you never knew,
   and went in.
   -- Neal Stephenson, Zodiac- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -
 


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[RBW] Re: Bike name idea (was new Riv road bike, and my unwanted input for another)

2009-07-08 Thread Christopher Paul

Assuming that this bike is worthy of stealing hearts, how about a
classy French name, like Rogue ?

On Wed, Jul 8, 2009 at 12:28 PM, James Warrenjimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote:

 In the spirit of a bike that will be welcoming on FRIENDLY and athletic
 club rides, I would like to recommend the name Compadre.

 -James


 


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Re: SF Peninsula s24 overnight? was Re: [RBW] S24O: Crystal Cove, 6/27

2009-07-04 Thread Christopher Paul

Greetings,

August 9th I'm riding from Sunnyvale to San Luis Obispo.  I'll be
riding a tandem with my 8 yr old boy. The mileage will vary from 40-60
miles per day with stops for waterfalls, animals, volcanic plugs and
other unique sights.

I'm always up for a s24o.   I'm flexible as to distance and pace and
also am familiar with Pacific Coast rides and places to camp.  I
prefer to eat out as I don't cook or like to carry cooking stuff.
Cheers,
Chris

On Wed, Jun 17, 2009 at 12:48 PM, Anne Paulsonanne.paul...@gmail.com wrote:

 I'm just finishing up the semester and haven't scheduled anything yet.
 I'm thinking late July.

 On Wed, Jun 17, 2009 at 9:50 AM, erik jensenbicyclen...@gmail.com wrote:
 Has this gone off yet? I saved it in my inbox, but my partner and I will be
 moving to the bay area on July 1st and would love to join up with some local
 riders for an s24o. She rides a saluki, I've an atlantis.

 Thanks,

 erik jensen

 On Thu, Jun 11, 2009 at 2:10 PM, Anne Paulson anne.paul...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 OK, roll call time. Anyone from the Peninsula area (let's say, San
 Jose to Redwood City, more or less) who is interested in a sub-24
 overnight, email me. Let me know what your schedule is, and what
 destinations appeal to you. Let's think about a trip in late June or
 late July.

 --
 -- Anne Paulson

 My hovercraft is full of eels




 




 --
 -- Anne Paulson

 My hovercraft is full of eels

 


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[RBW] Re: Surly Cross Check sizing question

2009-06-30 Thread Christopher Paul

Why not couple your Ram?  Speed and All day comfort. The Surely can't
hold a candle imho.
Cheers,
Chris

P.S. I want to thank whoever directed me to the Hubbub.com web site
for the Mixing Components question.  My LBS tried to sell me on a more
costly and less desirable 10 speed Campagnolo solution, and I directed
him to the link you provided.  He admitted it could be done and would
do it for me.  I have donated some of the money I saved in a local
beer drive in your honor.  Really, thanks!


On Tue, Jun 30, 2009 at 12:11 PM, Gino Zahndginoza...@gmail.com wrote:
 For those of you who ride a Rivendell, and also ride a Surly Cross Check or
 Travelers Check, what are the sizing differences?

 It looks like top tube is going to be the best bet on sizing a Surly, but if
 you know of any amazing secrets, please let me in!

 I'm currently trying to decide whether or not to couple one of my Rivs for
 all the travel I do, or to just build up a Surly Travelers Check.

 Thanks,
 Gino

 


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[RBW] Re: Mixing Components

2009-06-30 Thread Christopher Paul

Finally was able to track down your reply.  THANK-YOU My LBS
balked about using my parts in this fashion (I have a history of
giving them parts and paying for their labor, so this is nothing new).
 I directed them to the link you gave me, and the owner acknowledged
that this was a viable solution and agreed to do it for me.  This
knowledge prevented him from running up the tab with less efficient
alternatives.  As I told Gino, I have allocated funds from this
savings for beer from a local establishment in a depressed economy in
your honor.  Seriously,
Thanks!
Chris

On Tue, Jun 30, 2009 at 9:45 AM, Brewster Fongbfd...@yahoo.com wrote:



 On Jun 30, 8:01 am, zrainryder zdree...@gmail.com wrote:
 Just picked up an unusual bike on Craig's list (Serotta Hors
 Categorie). Even though its not a Rivendell, it does have an extended
 head tube and the curved seat stays really work in smoothing out road
 noise.  It came with Campagnolo Veloce 10 speed groupo (12-28) and a
 compact crank (34-50).  Not as nice as my Rambrouillet  Bleriot that
 have Sugino triples (26-36-48) and sram 11-34 cassettes (which are
 nine speeds).  Ok, the main objective I have is to get lower gearing
 on the new bike.  I was thinking of putting a sram mountain cassette
 on the back (11-34) and changing out the campy real derailleur for a
 long cage xt.  This would give me a low gear ratio of about 27 (700c
 tires).  Will this work? I know most bike technicians  say keep with
 one manufacturer...I hope this will work, because then I will have an
 expanded range (by increasing the largest COG from 48 to 50) while
 eliminating the granny gear.  If this won't work, then I can always
 exchange the crank, bottom bracket, groupo, brakes etc. to match my
 other bikes.  I'm hoping to avoid that.

 Mixing Campy and Shimano is possible. However, you appear to also want
 to mix 9 and 10 speed gearing. Since you're using Campy ergo, then frt
 der is a non-issue, unlike Shimano where you need to be specific as to
 what is used.

 Usually, its recommended to match your rear shifter with your rear
 der. So, using Campy Veloce 10 spd rear with Campy rear der over 10
 cogs is a given. However, since you're looking to use a XT long cage
 rear der, it appears you now want to go from 10 spd to 9 spd. It may
 work.

 You'll want to look at the Hubbub article on mixing Campy 10 ergo with
 Shimano 9 by clamping the cable in the opposite position:

 http://www.hubbub.com/articles_ergopower.html


 You shouldmay look at this chart too:

 http://www.ctc.org.uk/DesktopDefault.aspx?TabID=3946


 I use an older 2000 Campy 9 ergo (pre-2001 geometry) and a 2006 Campy
 9 rear der with Shimano 9 cassette/hubs and Sram 9 chain with NO
 PROBLEM. Mixing and match 9 works fine for me. I have a friend who
 uses a DA 8 rear der with Campy 9 ergo and has no problem shifting 9
 spd.

 Finally, If none of the above work, check Jtek shiftmate to see if
 they offer something that might help. Good Luck!
 


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[RBW] Re: Childrens bikes

2009-06-29 Thread Christopher Paul

Oh, this is a challenge!  You are lucky that you are dealing with an
eleven year old as the options are much better.  I have an 8 year old
and could not find a road bike to fit his 52 height.  I got him a
Fuji dynamite and replaced the knobby tires with schwab marathon
ones.  No comfort issues.  This is a 14 speed bike that replaced a
Trek MT 60 6 speed.   He has to work 3 times as hard when I bring him
on club rides because his bike weighs about twice as mine.  In other
words, his bike weighs around 32 lbs and he weighs around 42 pounds
(yes, he is skinny).

I think you have to approach fit issues as if he were an adult.  It is
a plus that he is sensitive and aware enough to give you relevant
feedback.

Don't ask me what I had to go through to get my Tandem to fit!

Cheers!
Chris

On Tue, Jun 23, 2009 at 8:00 AM, Jay Sinnsinn...@gmail.com wrote:

 I put my 11 year old son on a Giant MTX 225.  Mostly to teach him
 about shifting and hand brakes. He is already asking about a more
 comefortable seat and different bars. :)
 http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-AU/bikes/kids/2191/31884/zoom/

 What do RBW owners put their children on?
 


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[RBW] Re: Installing a Tubus Luna rack

2009-06-16 Thread Christopher Paul
On the subject of mounting racks...Where can I find P joints (or something
equivalent) to put on a Rambrouillet's front fork?  I want to attach the
Tubus Duo.
Chris

On Mon, Jun 15, 2009 at 2:26 PM, 40_Acres mgla...@gmail.com wrote:


 Patrick,

 I think the Luna is pretty similar to the Fly, but in stainless rather
 than tubular chrome-moly.  Interesting that you were able to get the
 strut to fit w/o using the steel tab / cutting.  On my frame (57cm
 with 700c wheels), the strut containing tube is only a few inches
 from the brake mount.


 On Jun 15, 7:31 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
  Wayne has excellent prices and service, judging from my one encounter
 with
  him.
  I mounted my last two Flys without bothering to use the steel tab; I just
  bent the aluminum strut in a vise. And, the strut will slide considerably
  into and out of its containing rack tube, so I didn't find it necessary
 to
  trim it.
 
  How does the Luna compare to the Fly?
 
 
 
  On Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 10:43 AM, 40_Acres mgla...@gmail.com wrote:
 
   I've wanted to install a narrow-profile, pannier-compatible rack like
   the Tubus Fly or Luna for commuting on my AHH, but was worried about
   fitment with that mono-stay.  It seemed like a shame to let those seat
   stay braze-ons go to waste, and bending and cutting the mono-stay to
   fit was pretty intimidating.  I bought a Luna from Wayne at
   TheTouringStore.com (who is great, by the way), and then stared at it
   for a couple of weeks.  I considered bringing it to one of the local
   bike shops, but then last night I just went for it.  Installation
   wasn't nearly as bad as I thought.  The rack comes with a steel tab
   that you can use to bridge the aluminum mono-stay to the rear brake
   bolt.  This tab comes slightly pre-bent, so it's easy to finish the
   job.  I clamped it in a vice by the wide end, and pounded the narrow
   end to 90 degrees.  Easy.  I then unbolted the rear brake, removed the
   last aluminum spacer (behind the thin fender mount), and replaced it
   with the 90 degree tab.Then I mounted the rack to the second set
   of eyelets on the rear dropouts (using the included black aluminum
   spacers to avoid interfering with the fender stays), tilted the rack
   level, and kind of eye-balled what how much the aluminum mono-stay
   would have to be bent and cut.  I took off about 4 inches with a
   hacksaw, clamped resized mono-stay in the vice, and bent it.  Held it
   up to the rack / 90 degree tab, then clamped it in the vice again and
   bent it a little more.  Perfect.  I sanded the edges of the cut stay,
   installed it, and done.  Not nearly as bad as I thought, and the whole
   process took about 1 hr.  I'll post pictures later.
 
  --
  Patrick Moore
  Albuquerque, NM
  Professional Resumes. Contact resumespecialt...@gmail.com

 


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[RBW] Re: Crank/BB/spindle tips (changing triple to double)

2009-06-12 Thread Christopher Paul

Just a couple of thoughts...

Don't know what derailleur you are using, but Shimano has a 22 teeth
limit.  Once I used an FSA 30-39-53 and it gave me constant headaches
with just one tooth over.  Your spread between the 26 and 50 is 24
teeth

Instead of changing the whole crank, have you considered just changing
out a ring or two?

I just bought a Sugino crank from Rivendell.  They only had 24-36-46
in stock.  I'm used to the 26-36-48 version.  So Rivendell exchanged
the 46 to a 48 .  I switched the 24 for the 26 myself.

Sorry if this response is off point.

Cheers,
Chris
On Thu, Jun 11, 2009 at 12:58 PM, Darren Stonedst...@bitmason.com wrote:

 Hi.  I have a tech crankarm/BB/spindle question that could use some
 expert insight.

 Current:  Saluki w/ Sugino 50-40-26 triple  Phil BB.  It's fine but I
 definitely notice the width/tread/q-factor.  My other rides are all
 singlespeeds, so that's to be expected.  The triple is decadent but
 I'm seriously thinking about moving to a wide-range double.  I spend
 most of my time in the 40 ring, likely in the 43 to 86 inch range.
 I've done the math and a 46-30 double might suit my riding needs.  I'd
 like to keep my 8 speed 12-32 XT cassette, Campy Record 9-speed chain,
 and friction shift.  It's all working well.

 So what I'm considering are the TA Pro 5 Vis cranks.  Apparently,
 they're narrower than most cranksets so that's very appealing.
 Aesthetically, gorgeous.  No reason to change the Phil BB, I assume.
 But what do I need to measure/scrutinize/order now before I make the
 switch?  I understand chainline but some of the BB width and spindle
 length specs confuse me.

 Open to opinions.  Cheers!

 -Darren.
 


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[RBW] Re: WTT 58cm Atlantis for 56cm Atlantis or Saluki

2009-06-01 Thread Christopher Paul

I have a 58 Rambouilet and a 57 Bleriot.  They are both exceptionally
comfortable bikes.  My pbh is 85.   Grant encouraged me to go with the
59 Bleriot, but the 57 was just to comfortable to pass up.  From the
piecemeal information you gave, my guess is that a 57 Saluki should
fit you fine and probably a hair better than your Atlantis.
Chris

On Mon, Jun 1, 2009 at 3:28 AM, James Dinneen jfxdinn...@yahoo.com wrote:
 The Saluki and the Bleriot are 650B bikes. There may also be a difference in
 geometry of those bikes. I think Grant Peterson rides a 56 Atlantis but 58
 or 59 in other RBW bikes. In short, while the seat tube may measure the
 same, other aspects of the bike vary from model to model.    Jim D.
 Massachusetts

 --- On Sun, 5/31/09, Brent brentsundh...@gmail.com wrote:

 From: Brent brentsundh...@gmail.com
 Subject: [RBW] Re: WTT 58cm Atlantis for 56cm Atlantis or Saluki
 To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Date: Sunday, May 31, 2009, 9:46 PM


 James,
 Thanks for the input. I have about 3 fingers of post exposed and use
 an 8cm stem on my 58 Atlantis.  I'm sure I can fit a 56 Atlantis just
 fine. I wasn't aware there was much difference compared to a saluki of
 the same size.

 Brent

 On May 31, 6:09 pm, James Dinneen jfxdinn...@yahoo.com wrote:
 I have not ridden an 'atlantis but if I did it would be a 56. I have
 ridden a 58 Saluki and that is a fine fit for me. I have a 57 Bleriot. My
 thinking is, if you can ride a 58 Atlantis, a 56 Saluki would be too small
 for you. Jim D.      Massachusetts

 --- On Sun, 5/31/09, Brent brentsundh...@gmail.com wrote:

 From: Brent brentsundh...@gmail.com
 Subject: [RBW] WTT 58cm Atlantis for 56cm Atlantis or Saluki
 To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Date: Sunday, May 31, 2009, 1:28 PM

 Frame only trade (possibly wheelset too). I  have a year old 58
 Atlantis with about 2500 miles on the frame. It gets used for the
 daily work commute and mixed terrain rides. I really like the fit and
 ride, just would like to run tires with a touch more volume and
 smaller diameter. There are a few scratches in the paint and I have
 fallen once on some ice. The frame is straight and without dents.
 Touchup paint will have it looking brand new again. Also since I ride
 year round the frame has been treated with Frame-saver. I will provide
 pictures upon request. This frame was purchased new from Jim Thill of
 Hiawatha Cyclery.

 So if anyone has a 56cm Atlantis or 56cm Saluki they would like to
 trade let's start talking.


 


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[RBW] Re: Tail wagging the dog?

2009-05-31 Thread Christopher Paul

Investment grade instruments, whether musical, vehicular, mechanical
etc are usually the safe play.  Why?
Because 1) they last longer  2) they function better 3) you enjoy them
more 4) if you tire of them down the road, they still will can command
strong resale value.   Higher quality equipment over the life of
ownership frequently costs less than its lower grade alternative(s).

Imo, if taken to an art form, bike and part lust can be fun and profitable.

Cheers,
Chris

One caveat or big consideration, would be whether or not your commuter
would be kept outside and unattended for any period of time.  If so,
then it would be foolish to install a sign that begs to be noticed and
taken.

On Sat, May 30, 2009 at 2:50 AM, Shakesbiker pbdemar...@gmail.com wrote:

 I am sorely tempted to buy the ultimate touring wheelset available
 from the Riv. web specials site.   It would be used to convert  27 to
 the more readily available 700 wheels on an old Centurion Pro Tour.
 My dilema?  Since I recently bought a  (new to me) Saluki, I had
 planned on relogating the Centurion to a commuting / rain bike. The
 wheels with Phil hub and Schmidt Son 28 would be worth a lot more than
 the bike. Am I foolish?
 Thoughts and/or advise would be appreciated.
 Thanks
 


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[RBW] Re: Weird sound

2009-05-28 Thread Christopher Paul

Greetings,

Turns out Jim's thinking was spot on.  Today the mating call occurred
again despite having re lubed the bottom bracket and pedals.  Today
took the wheel out and removed freewheel to get to inside of hub.
Dried out elephant snot  was found.  Cleaned and re lubed.  Now when I
coast, it is absolutely silent!  I was told that this should be done
every 30 hours of riding!  So I was just around 2000 hours past due.
Oh, well- ride  learn.

Cheers,
Chris

On Wed, May 27, 2009 at 9:27 AM, zrainryder zdree...@gmail.com wrote:

 Upon the last 10 miles of a 3 day excursion with quite a bit of
 climbing, my bike emitted a loud sound that sounded like an elephant
 mating call.  At first I thought it was the front wheel.  The bike
 makes the sound when going 15 mph+ and when coasting or when pedaling
 backwards at that speed.  Otherwise it sounds serendipitously.  I now
 suspect that the cause is in the bottom bracket.  I'm using Sugino
 cranks with a Tange bottom bracket which has around 5,000 miles on
 it.  I have not performed service to it of any kind.   Any thoughts or
 suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks, Chris.

 


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[RBW] Re: Weird sound

2009-05-27 Thread Christopher Paul

ha ha. fortunately I'm not riding in East Africa in the near future.
If I do, I'll make sure there is no elephant mating call sound...

I cleaned the bottom bracket shell, re greased  the bb, and clearned 
re greased the pedals. I also did a cursory check of the rear wheel
and seat just to cover all the bases.

Don't know if this solved the problem, but I'll find out tomorrow when
I go for a club ride.

Cheers,
Chris


On 5/27/09, 42MuskhamSt attew...@gmail.com wrote:

 If you are cycling anywhere in East Africa, I would suggest caution.
 An amorous elephant can manage 15 mph.

 On May 27, 9:27 am, zrainryder zdree...@gmail.com wrote:
 Upon the last 10 miles of a 3 day excursion with quite a bit of
 climbing, my bike emitted a loud sound that sounded like an elephant
 mating call.  At first I thought it was the front wheel.  The bike
 makes the sound when going 15 mph+ and when coasting or when pedaling
 backwards at that speed.  Otherwise it sounds serendipitously.  I now
 suspect that the cause is in the bottom bracket.  I'm using Sugino
 cranks with a Tange bottom bracket which has around 5,000 miles on
 it.  I have not performed service to it of any kind.   Any thoughts or
 suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks, Chris.
 


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[RBW] Re: Ruffy Tuffy tire /Grand Bois 30 700 tires

2009-05-17 Thread Christopher Paul

Hi Marty,

Sure, that sounds reasonable.  Please wait until I confirm I can find
them (I'm sure that I can).   I'll let you know in the morning.
Cheers,
Chris
On Sat, May 16, 2009 at 11:51 AM,  mam...@aol.com wrote:
 Chris,
 Would you take $75 delivered to Park Ridge, IL for  the GBs
 Thanks and  Regards,
 Marty McHugh

 -Original Message-
 From: Christopher Paul zdree...@gmail.com
 To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Cc: JimD rasterd...@comcast.net
 Sent: Fri, 15 May 2009 10:32 am
 Subject: [RBW] Ruffy Tuffy tire /Grand Bois 30 700 tires

 My personal experience with the GB in the 700 (30mm) is that they are
 not nearly as luxurious in feeling as compared to the 650 B, 32mm
 version and that there is a noticeable decrease in speed/performance
 from the Ruffy Tuffies.  I have a set of each that have around 300
 miles each.  Any reasonable offers?
 Cheers,
 Chris

 On 5/14/09, palin...@his.com palin...@his.com wrote:

 Quoting JimD rasterd...@comcast.net:


 In regards to Grand Bois 700c's My Mileage Has Varied (MMHV).

 I've given GB's several tries but don't find the ride with them
 significantly better than
 what I get with the Jack Brown Greens. I've found the GB's to be a
 bit fragile and
 get ~1000 miles (or less) on the rear using them.The JB's have been
 far more durable and g
 ive me
 more like 2500 miles on the the rear



 I replaced one Grand Bois 700x30 back tire at around 1800-1900 miles,
 when I got two flats in less than 40 miles and felt how thin the
 center tread area had gotten.  At that mileage, the front still looked
 unworn.




 




 
 We found the real 'Hotel California' and the 'Seinfeld' diner. What will you
 find? Explore WhereItsAt.com.
 


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[RBW] Re: Ruffy Tuffy tire problems

2009-05-14 Thread Christopher Paul

HI all, this is my first post to this group.
About Grand Boise Tires. Got the GB 32 650 B for my Bleriot 
absolutely love they way they feel  ride.  So I thought it would be
reasonable to get the GB 30's for my Rambouilett.  Awful.  They don't
ride or feel the same.  It amazes me that the same product in a
slightly different size has such a radical difference.  Btw, I also
have a pair of ruffy tuffies with less than 100 miles if anyone's
interested...I used to like them, now I don't.  I guess tastes can
change over time.
Cheers,
Chris

On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 9:14 PM, David Estes cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
 I don't recall reading about this w/ anyone else, so nice to see it's not
 just me (and my hot shed).

 Interesting that the JBs and RPs don't do this... I wonder about the Maxy
 Fasty are like.

 I really want to put some JBs on there, but clearance is REALLY tight for
 that under the rear brake arch.  Tempted to try out some Grand Bois tires,
 but Gino's scared me away from them!!! ;-)

 I'll keep em' going for a while longer, but yeah, it's pretty nervous to see
 a crack in your tire!



 On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 9:08 PM, Aaron Thomas aaron.a.tho...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 Yup. Same thing happened to my Ruffy Tuffies. I sent photos to RBW and
 they said it was fairly common with RTs, but nothing to worry about
 unless it looked like the casing was splitting as well. I retired them
 soon thereafter, simply for peace of mind, even though they appeared
 to have tons of tread left.

 I switched to the Roll-y Pol-y and like them much better. And so far
 neither they nor the Jack Brown greens have split like the RTs did.
 Maybe it has to do with the thicker tread on the RTs compared to the
 thinner tread on the RP and JB green.

 If you haven't yet tried the RPs you ought to. In my experience they
 ride way better than the RTs -- they don't have that thuddy feel that
 the RTs do.

 Aaron

 On May 13, 8:51 pm, David Estes cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
  I've consistently had problems with Ruffy Tuffies over the years.  Yet
  another pair is starting to separate along the tread:
 
  http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/3529285691/
 
  That said (and seen), I store my bikes in a hot shed.  It's exposed to
  the
  southern sun and gets HOT in there (There is no electricty, so there
  isn't
  ozone from a motor in there).  Also, these aren't brand new tires, but
  are
  several years old.  Most I bought used.
 
  Buut, I have three sets of Paselas, one set of Col de la Vies,
  and
  one set of generic 650A tires in the same shed along w/ the kid's BMX
  bikes.  NO PROBLEMS with any of those tires, and they are significantly
  older (one set of Paselas is probably close to 10 years).
 
  Has anyone else had this problem?  The cracking/separation is very
  consistent, right along the line separating the different squares on
  the
  surface pattern.  Sidewalls are fine.  Low miles on 'em, you can still
  see
  the cross-file tread in the squares.
 
  Note:  this isn't bagging on Rivendell/Grant/Panaracer/Lance Armstrong,
  just
  simply starting a discussion about what I've noticed.   Am I doing
  something
  wrong in storing them, and if so, why isn't it a problem w/ other tires?
 
  This hasn't stopped me from buying Ruffy Tuffies, but I'm sure not
  getting
  my $$$ out of them.
 
  --
  Cheers,
  David
  Redlands, CA




 --
 Cheers,
 David
 Redlands, CA

 


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