[RBW] Re: Front derailleur for 42 28 cranks?

[Drew Saunders]

Any of your older “road” double FDs should work. I’m using a c. 1990 
Campagnolo Croce D’Aune for my 26-42, and, other than being difficult to 
pronounce, it’s perfect.

On Friday, September 27, 2024 at 8:12:31 AM UTC-7 dinoh...@gmail.com wrote:

> I just got some Silver cranks in 42/28.  I've never had this sort of 
> gearing before.  This range seems to sit between road sizing, on one end of 
> the spectrum, and the older, pre-1x mountain bike stuff on the other.
>
> Just wondering what front derailleurs you guys have successfully run on 
> such cranks.  I have tons of old Shimano 7-10 speed road and mountain front 
> derailleurs in the garage.  In my hand right now is an XT double that I can 
> tell would work great, but it's got a huge clamp, and to shim that thing 
> would look, well, ugly. 
>
> Just wondering what works (well) so I easily sift through all the parts I 
> have.
>

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Re: [RBW] Lael Wilcox

[Drew Saunders]

Here's a gift link to the NYT article about Lael's ride (which she's 
finished): 
https://www.nytimes.com/2024/09/12/sports/cycling/bicycle-around-the-world-record.html?unlocked_article_code=1.KU4.WX6-.ePmZoh9XefY6&smid=url-share

On Thursday, September 12, 2024 at 8:09:54 PM UTC-7 ted...@gmail.com wrote:

> So glad some of you had the chance and took the time to ride with Lael 
> during this event. I look forward to what I hope is an upcoming 
> consolidated podcast and/or book on the ride. Inspirational. 
>
> Ted
>
> On Sep 12, 2024, at 9:37 PM, WilletM  wrote:
>
> 
>
>
> Quite a few years ago, I was lucky enough to meet Lael (and her 
> then-companion, Nick) and give the pair a ride from the Denver area out to 
> western Colorado.  I had been following their adventures on Nick's "Gypsy 
> by Trade" blog, which is also where I believe I came into contact with 
> them.  Though Lael had at that time been (I recall?) an endurance runner of 
> some repute, it was my understanding from reading the blog and talking to 
> them that Lael was just starting out with bikepacking and extended bike 
> travel.  My overwhelming recollection of her during the trip was of an 
> utterly wide-eyed young woman who was just taking it all in and going with 
> the flow, with Nick being the more experienced traveler and planner and 
> blogger.
>
> Fast forwarding some years down the road, I remember following Lael's 
> extraordinary ride in the TransAm race across the US, which I think Nick 
> blogged about every evening nearly in real time after speaking to Lael 
> about that day's adventure.  For those who haven't read about that 
> particular race, the daily blog entries from Nick are some of the most 
> exciting reading that I've ever done.  And the last couple of days and the 
> ending had me standing and cheering and forwarding links to everyone I 
> could think of.  
>
> I heard Lael get interviewed on BBC radio today and it made me smile.  
> She's still a wide-eyed young woman and you can just hear the excitement in 
> her voice as she contemplates getting back on her bike for the next day's 
> ride.  What a great role model she has been with all her Tour Divide and 
> Baja Divide advocacy.  She's definitely leaving her mark in the world, and 
> some days it just happens to be a world record.
>
> Willet M.
>
> On Thursday, September 12, 2024 at 10:19:27 AM UTC-6 Ted Durant wrote:
>
>>
>> On Sep 12, 2024, at 11:01 AM, Paul M  wrote:
>>
>> She mentioned that a rider was drafting her too close for quite some time 
>> and wouldn't back off. It must be that dude staring at his phone.
>>
>>
>> No, this photo is from yesterday, her final day, and "that dude” is a 
>> very, very good rider and was (like me) grabbing a photo. He (and the guy 
>> next to him) took Amtrak downstate and rode around 200km with her to the 
>> finish and they were super respectful of both her and all the other riders.
>>
>>
>> Ted Durant
>> Milwaukee, WI USA
>>
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Re: [RBW] Cameras On Bikes

[Drew Saunders]

Keith,

Sadly, Ebony Cameras shut down in 2018 but here's an archived 2017 version 
of their website: 
https://web.archive.org/web/20170813101043/http://www.ebonycamera.com/
The various PDFs at the bottom are worth downloading while you can.
The 45SU is a non-folding field camera, an idea that Ebony pioneered, and 
that Chamonix continues to make with a couple of their offerings. The "U" 
means asymmetric rear swing and tilt, which is rather confusing at first, 
but once you get used to it, works really well. A bit too esoteric to 
explain in a bike group, but one of the PDFs explains it. 
The PDF catalog does assume you understand how view cameras work. There are 
lots of resources online if you're wondering about view cameras, including 
good youtube videos. I like Mat Marrash's and Ben Horne's youtube channels.

Plenty of modern camera backpacks have tripod straps, which oddly wasn't 
always the case (thus why the Photo Backpacker was born about 20 or so 
years ago).

Drew

On Friday, August 9, 2024 at 8:41:23 PM UTC-7 Keith P. wrote:

> Drew,
>
> This is awesome. 
> Beautiful 4x5 camera that I would like to know more about.
>
> Good on you for transporting it by bike too.
> I have been working on doing this with my medium format camera with 
> limited success.
>
> Tripods present particularly prickly problems.
>
> I need to figure out more lashings.
>
> Thanks for posting!
> I’d love to see some of your resulting images.
> k.
>
> On Aug 9, 2024, at 3:11 PM, Drew Saunders  wrote:
>
> 
>
> OK, I know the theme is carrying cameras, mostly film cameras, on rides, 
> but here's how I bike with a rather large camera. I only take this setup up 
> to 2-3 miles, so it's clearly riding to photograph, not carrying a camera 
> just in case I want to photograph. 
>
> 
> 
> 
> 
>
>
> So, what's in that rather large backpack?
>
> 
> 
>
>
> That's an Ebony 45SU 4x5" large format film camera. Like the Quickbeam, 
> it's from 2008, but since a lot of people assume that a wood and leather 
> camera must be ancient, I like to tell them "it's an oh-eight" and let them 
> guess the century. Hint: The metal bits are titanium, so it's not that old! 
>
> I have the Photobackpacker (a.k.a. RPT, and the guy fully retired 
> recently, so, like the Ebony, it can't be bought new any more) modified 
> Kelty backpack and Photobackpacker system to carry the camera and lenses. I 
> sometimes carry up to 6 lenses, but today went on an "all wide" excursion, 
> carrying my 65mm, 80mm, 125mm and 135mm lenses, but didn't end up using the 
> 135. For those of you who are wondering "what's the 'crop factor'?" well, 
> it's complicated to compare a 2:3 ratio (24x36mm) to a 4:5 ratio 
> (96x120mm), but 3.5 is good enough, so those are all pretty wide lenses. I 
> like to choose a few lenses for each excursion. I have, let's just say, 
> more than four lenses. Possibly way more than four...
>
> The big side pocket carries the film holders and is sized for the sadly 
> out of production Quickload/Readyload holders and film. The Tripod is a 
> Manfrotto 441 (not sure what the current equivalent would be) with a rather 
> heavy Manfrotto 410 geared head. 
>
> Here's the 125 in use:
>
> 
>
>
> Extremely eagle-eyed observers may notice that I swapped to the bag 
> bellows. Most of you are thinking "bag what now?"
>
> I probably should get an electric cargo bike some day.
>
> Drew
>
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>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Cameras On Bikes

[Drew Saunders]

The QB has what I like to call “the world’s most inconvenient 4 speed.” 
Stock 32-40 chainrings, 17-19 Dos Eno freewheel on the flip side of the 
flip/flop hub and a 22t regular freewheel on the flop side. I can use the 
17 and 19 with the 40, and the 19 and 22 with the 32, but haven’t changed 
out of the 40x17 in a long time. I rode fixed from about 1998-2004, but 
severely injured my right knee when it bent back a bit while on the fixie, 
so I can’t ride fixed any more. The knee injury forced me to lose 80+ lbs, 
so it wasn’t all bad. The QB was a present to myself for the weight loss.

That’s a Carradice lowsaddle longflap that I bought from Riv a very long 
time ago. I carry my lock, a Sackville sack for the medium Wald, a basket 
net, and an insulated bag just in case I need to keep groceries cold in it.

Why shoot large format? Mostly, because I still can. Realistically, a 
negative that’s over 13x the area of 35mm gives you not only more detail, 
but smoother transitions through the different colors or shades of grey. I 
only shoot black and white now, but have shot positive film in the past, 
and a large format slide is really impressive. With most LF cameras, you 
have front and rear standards with all the perspective control movements of 
rise/fall and lateral shift, plus tilt and swing. Also, you have no choice 
but to slow down and really think about your photograph. I shot 5 images in 
about an hour and a half this morning, and that’s relatively fast!

I’ll develop the negatives tomorrow, but here’s an album of photos, mostly 
large format, taken at that Arizona Garden on the Stanford 
campus. https://flic.kr/s/aHsiVZiPU4
I’ll add these to that album once they’re scanned.

On Friday, August 9, 2024 at 5:48:12 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> I know nothing about cameras but I know and wholeheartedly approve of the 
> bike and its setup -- drop bar well placed, eminently practical build with 
> the Carradice, flapped SKS', and small basket plus the fun of a fixed gear 
> (or is the rear cog a fw cog?). About a 65" gear? My remaining (out of 5 
> total) Riv is a custom fixed gear favorite, and 2 of the others were also 
> converted to fixed drivetrains and used for commuting with Carradice 
> (Nelson LF or Camper LF) or Cartwright (Adam) saddlebags. My current Riv 
> fixed has a Small Sackville.
>
> Back to the camera: what is the benefit or purpose of the large format? My 
> brother is an expert and would know, and my (23-year-old) daughter plans to 
> learn to use manually-adjusted film camera someone kindly gave her. Me, if 
> I get an occasional decent photo with my old iPhone it's purely by luck.
>
> On Fri, Aug 9, 2024 at 4:11 PM Drew Saunders  wrote:
>
>> OK, I know the theme is carrying cameras, mostly film cameras, on rides, 
>> but here's how I bike with a rather large camera. I only take this setup up 
>> to 2-3 miles, so it's clearly riding to photograph, not carrying a camera 
>> just in case I want to photograph. 
>> [image: IMG_7068.jpeg][image: IMG_7069.jpeg][image: IMG_7071.jpeg][image: 
>> IMG_7072.jpeg]
>>
>> So, what's in that rather large backpack?
>> [image: IMG_7073.jpeg][image: IMG_7075.jpeg]
>>
>> That's an Ebony 45SU 4x5" large format film camera. Like the Quickbeam, 
>> it's from 2008, but since a lot of people assume that a wood and leather 
>> camera must be ancient, I like to tell them "it's an oh-eight" and let them 
>> guess the century. Hint: The metal bits are titanium, so it's not that old! 
>>
>> I have the Photobackpacker (a.k.a. RPT, and the guy fully retired 
>> recently, so, like the Ebony, it can't be bought new any more) modified 
>> Kelty backpack and Photobackpacker system to carry the camera and lenses. I 
>> sometimes carry up to 6 lenses, but today went on an "all wide" excursion, 
>> carrying my 65mm, 80mm, 125mm and 135mm lenses, but didn't end up using the 
>> 135. For those of you who are wondering "what's the 'crop factor'?" well, 
>> it's complicated to compare a 2:3 ratio (24x36mm) to a 4:5 ratio 
>> (96x120mm), but 3.5 is good enough, so those are all pretty wide lenses. I 
>> like to choose a few lenses for each excursion. I have, let's just say, 
>> more than four lenses. Possibly way more than four...
>>
>> The big side pocket carries the film holders and is sized for the sadly 
>> out of production Quickload/Readyload holders and film. The Tripod is a 
>> Manfrotto 441 (not sure what the current equivalent would be) with a rather 
>> heavy Manfrotto 410 geared head. 
>>
>> Here's the 125 in use:
>> [image: IMG_7078.jpeg]
>>
>> Extremely eagle-eyed observers may

[RBW] Re: Going from 2x9 to 3x9 - FD Selection

[Drew Saunders]

I have a 26-42-guard New Albion setup, and although the 16 tooth shift is 
huge, it's pretty manageable if I'm not in a hurry. Maybe you just need a 
new "middle" ring and chainguard? It's also possible your chainguard is big 
enough for a 42. Going from 38 to 42 is about the same as changing 1t in 
the back for the higher gears (i.e.: a 42x11 would be like getting a 10t 
high gear with your 38), so is pretty noticeable. That would give you a 1x 
plus bailout, and you'll probably use the 42 for about 90% of your riding. 
How often do you use the 26x34? If rarely or never, I'm sure there are 
11-32 or 11-28 cassettes that will work.

On Wednesday, July 10, 2024 at 8:58:53 AM UTC-7 wong.d...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hi Bill,
>
> After writing that note I started thinking the same thing - what exactly 
> is the problem I am trying to solve.  (Other than becoming obsessed with 
> tinkering and "upgrading.")  In my mind I was thinking that I want to 
> expand the range of the 9 speed.  On the big chainring, I find that the I 
> seldom use the 3 largest cogs because I do spin out.  Maybe going to a 1x 
> would fix that "problem."  You've got me second guessing myself.  LOL.  
>
> Really do appreciate the thoughtful response, 
>
> On Tuesday, July 9, 2024 at 8:11:26 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> I think it could be really useful to the group, and maybe to you, if you 
>> could describe what problem you are looking to solve.  
>>
>> The implication is that you have decided you need higher gearing, because 
>> you ride too fast for the gearing that is on the Clem.  Depending on what 
>> tires you are running, the 38x11 highest gear on the bike now should be 
>> plenty to pedal well above 30MPH, but is not high enough to pedal up to 
>> 40MPH and beyond.  Is that the problem?  You spend too much time >30MPH and 
>> can't pedal at all when you are going >40MPH and need the gearing to keep 
>> up with your riding?  That's a valid use case, but many would consider that 
>> an odd use case for a Clem.  That's more like a Roaduno use case.  
>>
>> You say that you spin out on most of the cogs when you are in the 26. 
>>  Have you decided you don't need the 26?  Have you considered moving from 
>> 26/38 up to 32/44?  Then you wouldn't need a front derailleur.  Have you 
>> considered going from 26/38 to a 40T 1x?  Then you could sell your front 
>> derailleur and you wouldn't need one at all.  
>>
>> Removing a chain guard and adding a third ring can be complicated because 
>> of the shift from the 38 to the big ring.  Most triple front derailleurs 
>> are set up for jumps that are closer to equal.  Have a look at the Silver 
>> Triple on the rivbike website.  It's 24/34/44, nice 10 tooth jumps at each 
>> step.  26/38/44 with that 6-tooth jump could interfere with some front 
>> derailleur cage designs.  That's more like an old-school half-step setup.  
>>
>> The point is that a bicycle has a lot of interdependencies.  You think 
>> you are changing one little thing, but it influences other things. 
>>  Planning a solution is good, but it should be to address a well-defined 
>> problem.  What problem are you trying to solve?
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Monday, July 8, 2024 at 6:06:56 PM UTC-7 wong.d...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Hello,
>>>
>>> I currently have a 2x9 with a 26/38 crank (Silver brand) and a 11/34 
>>> cassette on my Rivendell Clem Smith Jr - H.
>>>
>>> I want to add a third/outer chainring (maybe a 44 or 46), which can be 
>>> done by replacing the Silver bashguard with an outer chainring.
>>>
>>> I am shopping for a replacement front derailleur (either a Shimano XT 
>>> M771 or XTR M971) because I don’t think my Claris FD is capable of a 3x.
>>>
>>> I am looking at the specs of both FDs.
>>>
>>> The “Front Chainwheel Tooth Difference” is 20T/22T for the XTR and 18T 
>>> for the XT
>>>
>>> The “Min. difference between top and intermediate” is 12T for the XTR 
>>> and 10T for the XT
>>>
>>> How closely do I need to meet these two requirements?  If I get a 46T, I 
>>> don’t meet the Shimano specs.  The Front Chainwheel Difference is 20T and 
>>> the Min Difference between the top and intermediate is 8T.   Will either FD 
>>> work?  I wanted to save money by leaving the 26/28 alone.
>>>
>>> On a side note, I don’t plan to use the smallest chaining (26T) very 
>>> often (if ever) as I basically spinout for most of the 9 cogs.  
>>>
>>> Thank you.
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Front Derailleur Adjustment - Friction DT Shifters

[Drew Saunders]

I agree, it seems likely that your FD is rotated just a wee bit. I'm not 
familiar with "indexing" FDs, like your GRX 810, but I would expect them to 
be wider than older friction only FDs, just to accommodate the fact that 
indexing front shifters can't trim. Either I'm the best home mechanic, or I 
got really lucky, in that when I set up my new-to-me c. 1990 Campy Croce 
d'Aune FD for 2x11 friction, I got it in just the right spot no not rub on 
the chain through the entire 11 speed range with the "big" ring (middle 
position of a 26-42-guard triple). I was fully expecting to have to trim as 
I ran the cassette. With my bar-end shifters and 9-speed, I would 
occasionally have to trim the FD as I used more of the cassette, but I 
shifted the FD a lot more with a triple than with my "one-by with bailout" 
setup.

Anyway, if you want to embrace full friction, a simpler, older FD may do 
the trick. A quick search on eBay for "Shimano 600 front derailleur" got 
quite a few for under $20. Ultregra was one time "600" then "600 Ultregra" 
so that's an easy search for older Ultegra-level equipment. Dura Ace has 
been Dura Ace for a very long time, but an older 8-speed or 9-speed era DA 
FD would be nice too, but for more money. I went with a Campy FD to go with 
my Mavic DT shifter so I could maximize the number of different brands in 
my drivetrain just to be a contrarian.

Drew

On Tuesday, June 25, 2024 at 6:15:52 PM UTC-7 Jay wrote:

> I've been riding my Roadini since February and it has been great, although 
> the FD seems less than ideal.  When I'm in the big ring, it works quietly 
> on only the few smallest sprockets.  When I'm the small ring, works quietly 
> on the 4-5 largest sprockets.  I'm often making minor adjustments to the 
> front DT shifter to line it up so there is no chain rub / noise.  I've 
> gotten used to this and it's not really a big deal, but I was thinking 
> there may be something I can do to improve things, and figured this group 
> knows friction!
>
>  The shop who built the bike is great, and everything was well done from 
> what I can tell, so my guess is the FD is set up as good as possible, and 
> maybe only a very minor tweak is required.  Perhaps it's just the specific 
> parts and how they work together (i.e., not a perfect system).  
>
> Before I try and make any adjustments myself I thought I would ask about 
> others' experience with friction shifting, front derailleurs, or perhaps 
> this specific from derailleur.  My success rate at fixing drivetrain issues 
> in the past is moderate...though it's not intuitive for me, and I have to 
> watch youtube videos to learn before doing anything.
>
> Other bikes I have/had are index, usually 105/Ultegra/GRX, and the front 
> derailleur wasn't noticeable, it just worked, quietly.
>
> The down tube shifters are Dia-Compe ENE Ciclo 11sp, front derailleur is 
> GRX 810.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>

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[RBW] Re: Building a Quickbeam and wondering...

[Drew Saunders]

I have an orange Quickbeam, which I bought new, with the original Sugino 
74/110 triple with the original 32/40/guard chainrings. I immediately 
removed the provided 18t freewheel and put on a White 17/19t Dos Eno. I 
also put a 22 on the flop side of the flip/flop hub that Riv included with 
the bike.

With the long dropout, I can use 40/17 (99%+ of my riding), 40/19, 32/19 or 
32/22. I like to say I have the world’s least convenient 4 speed. I haven’t 
“shifted” the bike about 5 years or more, but in the first 8 years that I 
owned it, I would take it for long recreational rides and need to downshift 
for some hills. For the locals: I even rode it up Old La Honda years ago, I 
think in the 32/19, maybe the 32/22. Age and 2 bouts with cancer have made 
a single speed bike only suitable for commuting for me now, but it’s great 
for that.

I’d definitely recommend 2 chainrings at about 8t difference if you want 
some versatility. I have the pop off SKS fender stay things, and pack an 
old gardening glove in my saddle bag so I can change the gearing without 
getting too messy.

Drew
On Tuesday, March 5, 2024 at 12:21:08 PM UTC-8 David wrote:

> What are your drivetrain specs? Cranks, chainrings, etc.  Simpleones, too, 
> if that's what you're riding. It appears Riv doesn't offer the classic 
> single speed crankset anymore.

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Re: [RBW] Advantages of triple drivetrains (VO post)

[Drew Saunders]

Although I'm not Bill (middle name is William, though), I'm using a 26-42 
(triple with chainguard) and an older "road double" front derailleur, and 
the FD doesn't hit the chainstay. I have the FD a wee higher than might be 
absolutely perfect in order to clear the chainstay, but it shifts just fine.

I'm enjoying the "one by with bailout" a lot since moving from a triple 
(24-36-46, 11-23 9sp) to the 26-42, 11-28 11-speed. 

Most of my rides don't go up the steeper hills of the Santa Cruz mountains, 
so I can go many rides without touching the FD at all. I managed to get the 
FD lined up just perfectly such that the chain doesn't rub in either the 11 
or 28, which surprised me, I was expecting to have to trim the FD often. 
When I do go up the steeper roads, I'll probably use the FD just twice on 
that ride: one downshift and one upshift. Only very rarely do I need four 
shifts. Yes, a 1x might work better, but I like the smaller jumps of my 
cassette.

It's to the point where I'm going to go from two Silver barends to having a 
downtube shifter for the front. My hips are such that my left knee gets 
perilously close to hitting the left barend shifter if I'm out of the 
saddle (right knee tracks more "straight"), so a downtube shifter would be 
better. Reading this discussion got me to searching eBay, and I found a 
Mavic 821 left only DT retrofriction shifter. This was a special product 
they sold with the failed Zap system. I could have gotten a pair of older 
Shimano shifters for less, but this will give me a Silver shifter, Mavic 
shifter, New Albion cranks, Campy FD, Shimano RD and cassette, SRAM chain 
drivetrain, just to be contrary to the all-one manufacturer that modern 
setups seem to require. When the Shimano cassette wears out, I may get a 
Sunrace, just to get one more manufacturer in the drivetrain.

Drew
On Tuesday, January 9, 2024 at 12:30:47 PM UTC-8 John Hawrylak, Woodstown 
NJ wrote:

> Bill L stated:   " If it were me, I'd experiment with a 42-tooth big ring 
> before going to a triple"
>
> Question to Bill:   Will a 42T large ring result in the FD hitting the 
> chain stay in the inner ring of a triple (say 24T or 26T) ???
>
> PS  I agree with your comment on the 46-11 being a very high gear.
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
> On Tuesday, January 9, 2024 at 3:21:33 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> Ben
>>
>> You run a 46/30 with an 11-34 11sp cassette.  If it were me, I'd 
>> experiment with a 42-tooth big ring before going to a triple.  46x11 is 
>> pretty darn high for a commuter/city bike.  Anything higher than a 4:1 in 
>> my book is for the sole purpose of pedaling at >>40mph.  That is a real 
>> use-case in hilly areas, but not for me, and especially not for a 
>> commuter/city bike.  That's just a suggestion.  The jump from 42 to 30 is 
>> much less dramatic.  
>>
>> BL in EC
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 9, 2024 at 11:25:39 AM UTC-8 bunny...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I've been kind of triple-curious again. I live in a hilly part of L.A. 
>>> My commuter/city bike has an 11-34 11s with a 46/30 front. I've been 
>>> finding the 46 to 30 jump to feel pretty large. It feels much more dramatic 
>>> than 50-34. For instance, if I switch big to small in the from, I'll sift 
>>> down at least 3 cogs on the back to totally avoid spinning out immediately. 
>>> I sometimes find myself mildly cross chaining in either direction to find 
>>> the right gear.
>>>
>>> So I've been thinking of either going 1x, or 3x. My other bike is 1x, 
>>> and it's a carbon all-road/gravel thing. I like the setup for rougher 
>>> terrain. Also, I just don't like the idea of having duplicate bikes. I also 
>>> romanticize the bike I had about 20 years go, which had an 11-27 9 speed 
>>> with 24/36/46. At the time, it felt luxurious, natural, and easy. But I 
>>> didn't know then what I know now, and many times when I've set up a modern 
>>> bike like this one from my past, I get quickly disillusioned and undo that 
>>> change.
>>>
>>> I kinda feel like the headline should be "triples: still fun and useful 
>>> for hands on bike nerds who like to tinker."
>>>
>>> Ben
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, January 9, 2024 at 10:44:06 AM UTC-8 captaincon...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I dissent.  Front derailers are unnecessarily complicated to setup, and 
 so are triple chainrings, especially on XD2s.  I have 1X 10 one two bikes, 
 and love it, and I just specced a 1X 11 with a Deore 5100 derailer and 
 11-51 cassette for my BMC Monstercross.  The whole drivetrain cost less 
 than a nice triple crankset, it's all lighter too.  Check out Analog 
 Cycles 
 for inspiration.
 On Tuesday, January 9, 2024 at 11:45:17 AM UTC-6 Johnny Alien wrote:

> For years Grant/Rivendell argued against lots of gears in the rear 
> because people didn't need to shift that much. The message was to push 
> through if its too hard or even get off and push the bike up the hill. 
> Now 
> its shi

[RBW] Re: 31.8 clamp FD recs

[Drew Saunders]

Index or friction shifting? If friction, it shouldn’t matter. I’m running a 
c. 1990 Campy Croce d’Aune FD, designed for 39/53, on my 26-42 “double with 
a chain guard” and it works fine. When I ran a 24-36-46, I used a Suntour 
XC Pro, mainly because it was a gorgeous derailleur.  Friction front 
shifting is pretty forgiving.

Drew

On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 7:02:00 PM UTC-8 brenton...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hi y'all,
>
> I'm going to run a 46/36/26 Sugino XD2 triple on my Roadini and want a 
> classy front derailleur.
>
> I was looking at Ultegra/105/DA models ending in XX03 and there are so 
> many! I was reading that they are shaped more to match the curve of 
> 53/39/30, but does that really matter outside of aesthetics? Should I 
> consider a mountain triple instead?
>
> Any recommendations or advice is welcome!
>
> Thanks, Brent
>

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Re: [RBW] A Homer Hill build....

[Drew Saunders]

If you’re spinning out the 42, many triple FDs and RDs will handle a 
24-36-46 with a 12-36. Alternately, you could use the 24-34-44 with an 
11-34 or 11-36, both of which are made in 9 speed. A 44x11 is easy math, 
it’s the same 4:1 ratio that was the standard high gear when professional 
racers ran a 42-52 up front with a 13-21 freewheel. 

On Tuesday, November 28, 2023 at 6:11:51 AM UTC-8 sarahlik...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Yeah, going down hills in the 42 I am still spinning but then someone told 
> me that is normal... I guess I am learning new things about riding since 
> I've been out with a group. I'm going to do a triple on this one and see 
> how it goes! I do like the sound of your set up with the 24-35-43 with 12 x 
> 36. Gravity is inconvenient for me a lot these days because I like to fuel 
> my engine with pie so I am looking forward to the 24! 
>
> On Monday, November 27, 2023 at 6:38:19 PM UTC-8 Drew Saunders wrote:
>
>> If you say you live in your 34, but sometimes spin out, while wanting a 
>> lower gear as well, then a triple is a good choice.
>>
>> You can set up the common 74/110 triple, like the Silver, Soma Clipper, 
>> etc. as a 24-34-44, and pair that with a 12-36 in the rear and have your “3 
>> cassettes on one bike” gearing. I use a 24-35-43 with a 12-36 on my 1998 
>> Ibis Mojo “Mountain Bike that has become a Gravel Bike.” I use the 43 on 
>> pavement, the 35 on almost all my off road riding, and the 24 when gravity 
>> becomes inconvenient. Based on my riding, a 2x10 or 11 makes more sense, 
>> but I’m cheap and lazy, so I’ll stick with the triple for some time.
>>
>> On Monday, November 27, 2023 at 7:24:42 AM UTC-8 sarahlik...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> This is gearing math I can understand... there is a Papa bear, and Mama 
>>> bear, and a Baby bear... and something that will be just right for everyone!
>>>
>>> On Monday, November 27, 2023 at 6:55:19 AM UTC-8 Eric Daume wrote:
>>>
>>>> IMO redundant gears are more of a conceptual or theoretical concern 
>>>> than a real issue. If you’re setting up a triple, you really end up with:
>>>>
>>>> - a middle ring for the majority of your riding 
>>>> - a small ring for big hills, use it with the biggest cogs in back
>>>> - a big ring for downhills or otherwise going fast. Use it with your 
>>>> medium and small cogs and back. 
>>>>
>>>> Yes, your small/small and big/big combos will give you those redundant 
>>>> gears, but who cares? You don’t need to use them anyway. 
>>>>
>>>> Eric 
>>>> Who lives the 1x life in flat central Ohio 
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, November 27, 2023, Sarah Carlson  
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Thank you for bringing up the redundant gears... in my brain I'm 
>>>>> telling myself maybe it's overkill... but is it really such a terrible 
>>>>> thing?
>>>>>
>>>>> On Sunday, November 26, 2023 at 5:27:48 PM UTC-8 Jason Fuller wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> You bring up a good point Ted about so-called redundant gears, 
>>>>>> which is something many cyclists try to eliminate as much as possible to 
>>>>>> their own practical detriment. It's better to approach planning a 
>>>>>> drivetrain by identifying how low you want your low gear to be, how high 
>>>>>> you want your high gear to be, and then finding the most user-friendly 
>>>>>> combination to get there. A big issue with wide-range doubles is that 
>>>>>> you'll find that you need to drop into the small ring for every hill, 
>>>>>> whereas if you have a triple, you can generally stay in the middle ring 
>>>>>> most of the time and save a lot of front shifts, even though you have 
>>>>>> more 
>>>>>> rings up there. 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> For me, I find I don't need anything above about 95 gear inches - 
>>>>>> above that and I'm going to coast, maybe tuck in and get aero. Maybe 100 
>>>>>> tops. On the low end, if it's used off-road or to carry loads I'll want 
>>>>>> something in the 18-20 gear inch range, but if it's a roadish bike, 
>>>>>> 24-25 
>>>>>> inches is good. So what I tend to do is run a double but size the rings 
>>>>>> such that I truncate the big gears I'll almost never use, so that I can 
>>>>>

Re: [RBW] A Homer Hill build....

[Drew Saunders]

If you say you live in your 34, but sometimes spin out, while wanting a 
lower gear as well, then a triple is a good choice.

You can set up the common 74/110 triple, like the Silver, Soma Clipper, 
etc. as a 24-34-44, and pair that with a 12-36 in the rear and have your “3 
cassettes on one bike” gearing. I use a 24-35-43 with a 12-36 on my 1998 
Ibis Mojo “Mountain Bike that has become a Gravel Bike.” I use the 43 on 
pavement, the 35 on almost all my off road riding, and the 24 when gravity 
becomes inconvenient. Based on my riding, a 2x10 or 11 makes more sense, 
but I’m cheap and lazy, so I’ll stick with the triple for some time.

On Monday, November 27, 2023 at 7:24:42 AM UTC-8 sarahlik...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> This is gearing math I can understand... there is a Papa bear, and Mama 
> bear, and a Baby bear... and something that will be just right for everyone!
>
> On Monday, November 27, 2023 at 6:55:19 AM UTC-8 Eric Daume wrote:
>
>> IMO redundant gears are more of a conceptual or theoretical concern than 
>> a real issue. If you’re setting up a triple, you really end up with:
>>
>> - a middle ring for the majority of your riding 
>> - a small ring for big hills, use it with the biggest cogs in back
>> - a big ring for downhills or otherwise going fast. Use it with your 
>> medium and small cogs and back. 
>>
>> Yes, your small/small and big/big combos will give you those redundant 
>> gears, but who cares? You don’t need to use them anyway. 
>>
>> Eric 
>> Who lives the 1x life in flat central Ohio 
>>
>>
>> On Monday, November 27, 2023, Sarah Carlson  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Thank you for bringing up the redundant gears... in my brain I'm telling 
>>> myself maybe it's overkill... but is it really such a terrible thing?
>>>
>>> On Sunday, November 26, 2023 at 5:27:48 PM UTC-8 Jason Fuller wrote:
>>>
 You bring up a good point Ted about so-called redundant gears, which is 
 something many cyclists try to eliminate as much as possible to their own 
 practical detriment. It's better to approach planning a drivetrain by 
 identifying how low you want your low gear to be, how high you want your 
 high gear to be, and then finding the most user-friendly combination to 
 get 
 there. A big issue with wide-range doubles is that you'll find that you 
 need to drop into the small ring for every hill, whereas if you have a 
 triple, you can generally stay in the middle ring most of the time and 
 save 
 a lot of front shifts, even though you have more rings up there. 

 For me, I find I don't need anything above about 95 gear inches - above 
 that and I'm going to coast, maybe tuck in and get aero. Maybe 100 tops. 
 On 
 the low end, if it's used off-road or to carry loads I'll want something 
 in 
 the 18-20 gear inch range, but if it's a roadish bike, 24-25 inches is 
 good. So what I tend to do is run a double but size the rings such that I 
 truncate the big gears I'll almost never use, so that I can run a big ring 
 on the double that I can stay in on gentle climbs. 40/28 to 11-34 is a 
 great combo, for instance. Even 38/26 to 11-28 to get some smaller steps 
 on 
 the back, and 38-11 is a big enough top gear for most situations 

 On Sun, Nov 26, 2023 at 1:45 PM Ted Durant  wrote:

> On Sunday, November 26, 2023 at 12:34:51 PM UTC-6 Jason Fuller wrote:
>
> I would echo that triples are pretty nice - not only do you get more 
> range, but the 10-tooth jumps in the front are a lot less 'disruptive' if 
> you know what I mean. I find the smaller chainring jump means that when I 
> hit the base of a hill I can often just drop a chainring and leave the 
> rear 
> alone, and it is a natural gear reduction .. whereas on the wide-low 
> double, you would be spinning like crazy if you tried the same thing
>
>
> Excellent point, and one that launches me into bike nerd mode... 
> apologies in advance if this is too much.
>
> The "standard" chainring gap became 16 teeth when "compact double" 
> 50x34 combos became all the rage. That's a 39% jump, the way I measure it 
> (Ln(50/34)), or about 2.5 times the 15.4% jump from 18 to 21 in back. 
> Now, 
> if you keep that 16 tooth gap but go down to 40x24, that's a ginormous 
> 51% 
> jump, which is 3.3x the 18-21 jump. I have a 42x26 on my Waterford ST-22, 
> and it's definitely jarring to drop to the small ring when you hit a 
> hill, 
> requiring a bit of advance planning to shift a cog harder in the rear, 
> first. I spent plenty of time riding half-step gearing, so I'm facile 
> with 
> double-shifting, but after a couple hundred kms I'm too tired for that. 
> For 
> my Breadwinner G-Road I went with 44x32, which is a gentle 32% jump. It 
> means there's more overlap in the gearing, or to put it another way, I'm 
> not maximizing the total ran

Re: [RBW] WTB/ISO New or Used Shimano Deore XT rear derailleur

[Drew Saunders]

How much do you like the 1 and 2T hops of the 11-28? If you find yourself 
shifting 2 or more cogs often, then a very wide range cassette might be a 
better fit, but if you like the fine tuning of your 11-28, then maybe it’s 
time for a front derailleur.

I went from 3x9, 24-36-46 with 11-23 to a “one by with bailout gears” 
setup: 26-42 with a 11-28 11 speed. I really do use the 42 as a 1X most 
rides, and only shift the FD if I’m climbing a big hill, which turns out to 
be about 1 ride in 4, or so. Plus, I’ll often only use the FD twice in a 
ride, one down and one up shift. I may even replace my left Silver bar end 
with a downtube shift lever instead. My physiology puts my left knee (but 
not my right) awfully close to the handlebar end when I stand while riding, 
so I have bumped the shifter once or twice a year.

A 30-46 with your 11-28 would let you keep what you have for some (most?) 
of your riding, and give you a bailout chainring. A 30x28 is functionally 
about the same as a 46x44.

Drew
On Wednesday, October 11, 2023 at 12:38:15 PM UTC-7 Caroline Golum wrote:

> Currently running a 1x10 right now: 46T crank in the front with the 
> aforementioned 11-28T in the rear, and non-indexed shifting friction 
> shifting on the bar end. I'm looking at a 10 or 11 spd cassette in the 
> 11-36T or 44T range. Trying to avoid redoing the whole drivetrain with a 
> 2x9 or 2x10 setup, but not entirely opposed to it.  
>
> On Wednesday, October 11, 2023 at 11:06:12 AM UTC-4 Eric Daume wrote:
>
>> Are you running friction shifting, and how big of a cassette will you go? 
>> Those will help determine what derailer you can run. 
>>
>> Eric
>>
>> On Wednesday, October 11, 2023, Caroline Golum  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hey RBOBs,
>>>
>>> The time has finally come for a new rear derailleur! And this time I’d 
>>> like to expand my gear ratio, ideally without having to replace my single 
>>> crank with a double. My new favorite mechanic (shoutout to Damon at Nomad 
>>> Cycles) suggested I switch to the Deore XT (I’m running a 105 with 11-28T 
>>> right now)
>>>
>>> Now here’s my question: given the overall decline in quality 
>>> for.,…..everything on planet earth…….should I get a new rear derailleur or 
>>> hunt around on here/EBay for something a little older (not by much, c. 2009 
>>> or so).
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>
>>
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/cc73294b-0c29-4fa6-afc2-8668a2c669e2n%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: What shoes does your Riv wear?

[Drew Saunders]

My Quickbeam is wearing Riv Jack Brown 700x33.3, which I over-inflate to 
80psi so I don't have to inflate as often. It's my commuter. I should 
probably really run them at about 70psi, and fill them more often, but I'm 
lazy.

My 1999 Riv Custom was from when 700x28 were considered "fat meat" 
super-sized monster wide tires, compared to the standard 23mm. I have RH 
700x28 Chinook Pass on it now, and I think they're more like 27mm. I also 
run those at 80psi, which is a more correct pressure for them and my 
weight. I used to run Riv Rolly-Poly 700x29, which really are 29mm wide. I 
think I could probably fit 31mm tires, so if the RH "Stampede Pass" 700x32 
are also on the narrow side, they should fit. When my current tires wear 
down some more, I'll order the RH "32mm" tires and hope they fit. I've been 
quite happy with RH tires and don't get any more flats than other brands. 
Can't say they're "super supple" but they ride well. If those don't fit, 
I'll search for a pair of 30mm tires.

I have the 26x2.3" RH Humptulips Ridge on my 1998 Ibis, which is their 
dual-purpose knobby for 26" wheels. They're also nowhere near 2.3" wide. I 
had a 2.3" Bontrager on the front and a 2.1" Panaracer (Smoke, I think) on 
the back before, and these are just a wee wider than the 2.1" Panaracer. I 
find the grip to be almost as good as the "real" off-road tires, but the 
road rolling resistance is much lower. My 90's MTB is truly a "Gravel Bike" 
now!

RH slicks don't see to be all that much different to me than any other 
slick, but their dual-purpose knobby does seem very different than any 
other knobby I've ridden.

Drew

On Tuesday, October 3, 2023 at 8:41:57 AM UTC-7 Jeremy Till wrote:

> I doubt that Grant was intentionally designing his bikes specifically to 
> handle better with knobbier tires. I think it's more a product of his own 
> views of how a bike should handle and the tires that were available/common 
> at the time he designed the bike. On the first point, he's written a few 
> times defending the virtues of geometric trail, perhaps as a response to 
> challenges from Jan-Heine-o-philes who wanted him to design a low trail 
> bike. On the second point, most of the tires we're discussing were nothing 
> but a twinkle in Jan Heine or Panaracer's eyes when the Rambouillet was 
> designed, and I think it probably handles best with 28-32mm road tires 
> because that was considered downright obese for a road bike at the time. 
> For the Clem, certainly that was designed closer to the contemporary golden 
> age of fat tires, but I still remember most of the prototypes wearing 
> something like a Schwalbe Big Ben, which has more of a blockier tread that 
> probably reduces pneumatic trail compared to something like an RH slick. 
>
> Jeremy Till 
> Sacramento, CA
>
> On Monday, October 2, 2023 at 6:46:34 PM UTC-7 ted.l...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Jeremy,
>>
>> You make a good point about the geometric and pneumatic trail and the 
>> possibility that Grant designed his frames around a knobbier, more general 
>> purpose, tire thus building the frames with more geometric trail. I’d love 
>> to ask Grant that question to know if it was happy coincidence that they 
>> ended up that way or if the design choice was really that intentional.
>>
>> On Mon, Oct 2, 2023 at 4:22 PM Jeremy Till  wrote:
>>
>>> On my Rivendells I've noticed that, irrespective of the surface I'm 
>>> riding on, I actually prefer the handling with larger knobby tires than 
>>> with larger slick tires. This is true on both my Clem H (2016, first-gen) 
>>> with 45-55mm tires and my Rambouillet (green, ~2006 as far as I can tell) 
>>> with 36-38mm tires. My explanation for this is that Grant tends to design 
>>> bikes with larger geometric trail. When you add in the pneumatic trail of 
>>> larger slick tires, the whole thing can feel harder to turn. Knobby tires 
>>> give you the same shock absorption while putting less rubber on the 
>>> pavement, thus reducing the pneumatic trail. Jan Heine has noted this 
>>> effect himself when comparing knobby and slick versions of his tires. 
>>>
>>> My Rambouillet current wears RH (actually Compass, they're a few years 
>>> old) Steilacoom 700x38 knobbies. My Clem H has 29x2.2 Specialized Fast 
>>> Traks with the "Control" casing, which is an XC-oriented MTB tire with 
>>> relatively minimal knobs that rolls well on pavement. In my experience 
>>> there is no free lunch when it comes to supple casings and flats. Certainly 
>>> the ride is better with things like the RH standard casing but my rate of 
>>> flatting from glass and thorns goes up. Sealant and tubeless haven't been 
>>> the solution, in my experience, and I run both of my Rivendells with 
>>> tubes.  
>>>
>>> Since Patrick was also mentioning them I will say that I've used both 
>>> the 700x42 and 700x38 versions of the Soma Supple Vitesse EX on my Long 
>>> Haul Trucker, which seems to handle better with large slicks than my 
>>> Rivendells. Those 

[RBW] Re: Shiny front derailleur for 42/28 Silver crankset

[Drew Saunders]

When changing my Riv from 3x9 to 2x11, with a New Albion 26/42/chainguard 
setup, instead of using my Suntour XC Pro FD (which probably would have 
worked just fine), that I've been using for ~25 years, I opted for an older 
"road" double. I found a really nicely cleaned up Campagnolo Croce d'Aune 
FD from c. 1990 on eBay from the UK, and it shifts just fine. It's also 
very shiny! I've always liked having a mix of manufacturers, so although a 
similar Dura Ace or Ultegra would be just as good, I wanted a Campy part 
because I didn't have any other Campy parts on this bike. 

So, any good "road double" from the friction front shifter era would 
probably be great.

On Sunday, September 24, 2023 at 4:24:02 PM UTC-7 Kurt Henry wrote:

> So, I just found out that the few months I thought I had to firm up parts 
> for an upcoming Riv-inspired Inglis/Retrotec custom is a little shorter 
> than that.  When I got a call last week, it was to inform me that I was #2 
> on the build list, and #1 wasn't returning calls.  Sounds like I need to 
> figure out a few things in short order!  
>
> I want to run a Silver 42/28 crankset but not sure what to use for front 
> shifting duties.  I've used a Suntour Cyclone to shift a 28/45/50 in the 
> past but am not sure that's the best option.  Maybe a derailleur intended 
> for MTB use would be better?
>
> The key other criteria I can think of are that I would prefer at least 
> some shiny parts.  Pure black modern components are a non-starter.  I will 
> have either an XT or XTR on the rear, both with a mix of black and silver, 
> so a little mix on the front is OK.  I'm going to be shifting with 
> Microshift thumbies.  They use friction on the front, so no worries about 
> indexing.  It's just a question of which derailleur is most likely to move 
> the chain in the smoothest way.  Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks all!
> Kurt Henry
> Lancaster, PA
>

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[RBW] Re: Cycling shoes for wide feet?

[Drew Saunders]

I have 10.5  feet. Ducks follow me around as if I'm their leader. 
Birkenstocks fit me well, but otherwise, I have to seek out wide-specific 
shoes. I can also stand on one foot until I'm tired or bored, so super wide 
feet do have their advantages!

I'm in the process of getting the last few hundred miles out of my Shimano 
SPD-compatible "walkable" shoes. Can't remember the model, but they would 
be sold as "mountain bike" shoes, in that there are lugs and stuff to get 
grip. I have Ritchey SPD pedals on my Riv and Ibis, so I guess my 
28mm-tired Riv is a "mountain" bike! ;)

Anyway, when these give up the ghost and/or REI has a sale, I'll try 
whatever cheapest Shimano shoes they have that come in wide. The Stomp Lox 
look intriguing, but they don't make the longer sizes in wide too, which is 
too bad.

On Monday, August 21, 2023 at 9:02:33 AM UTC-7 J wrote:

> I feel like I've been banging my head against a wall with this question 
> for a couple years. I have one regular width foot that can tolerate just 
> about any shoe I put on it and one twice broken foot that can't tolerate 
> anything even slightly constricting in the toe box or pointy. So I normally 
> go with 12EE width equivalent shoes for the forgiving width and volume for 
> everyday use and wear approach shoes and flat pedals for on bike use. I can 
> no longer wear Vans of Converse that made up most of my non work footwear. 
> Any time I'm in a bike shop that has cycling shoes that I like the look of 
> I try them on and haven't yet found something that fits. As ugly I think 
> they are, Stomplox may be the only shoes voluminous enough.
>
> I once tried a friend's pair of very broken in (discontinued) Giro 
> Republic LX and they were a pretty nice fit but I needed a half size 
> bigger. 
>
> I've been stuck on trying a pair of Quoc but they wildly varying opinions 
> on whether they fit wide or narrow always keeps me away from them. Now that 
> Rei is carrying them I may just get a chance to figure out sizing in person 
> the next time I need to make the 2 hour drive to the closest Rei. 
>
> I have a friend with EE high volume feet and loves his Giro Empire VR90 HV 
> (HV discontinued) the HV stands for high volume. I think they look fairly 
> classic as well once you take a black sharpie to the lettering. The non HV 
> pretty classy left alone but I seriously doubt they'd fit. 
>
> The concept of good fit is hamstrung by the fact that brand new leather 
> shoes aren't going to fit the same after breaking in. For the last 10+ 
> years I've immediately soaked a new pair of leather work boots until the 
> leather was saturated then wore them around wet for a few hours to get the 
> leather started breaking in, then letting them dry before ever wearing them 
> to work. Same goes for Brooks saddles, contrary to popular opinion. 
>
>
>
> On Monday, August 21, 2023 at 10:14:13 AM UTC-4 Ted Durant wrote:
>
>> On Sunday, August 20, 2023 at 3:30:12 PM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>> Are there any proper cycling shoes out there that accommodate serious 
>> width? 
>>
>>
>> Thanks for jumping to a new thread ... I probably should have done that, 
>> myself. 
>>
>> Should we start with a definition of "proper cycling shoes" ?  :-)
>>
>> I have found the proliferation of pedals with large platforms to help me 
>> rethink what I am looking for in a cycling shoe. Of course, that also 
>> corresponds with retirement and never doing rides on which I feel the need 
>> to have my feet securely attached to the pedals. On the contrary, I am 
>> finding that being able to shift my feet around is significantly improving 
>> foot comfort on longer rides. It also has been helping me subtly alter the 
>> pedaling dynamics which is recruiting different muscles, which also reduces 
>> fatigue on longer rides. I did a 200km ride Saturday and being able to 
>> change my foot position was very helpful. I think that it's not just having 
>> a wider toe box, but also a more flexible sole that's important to foot 
>> health on long outings. My "theory" is that stiff soles, which are great 
>> for shorter rides with higher power output, are more damaging in the long 
>> run because they don't require the muscles (and attachments) in your feet 
>> and ankles to perform their usual stabilization and support functions. I'm 
>> not a PT/OT/MD, though, so take that for what it's worth. 
>>
>> Still, I appreciate the advantages of stiff soles and secure pedal 
>> connections. Unfortunately, I have yet to find cycling shoes that allow my 
>> forefoot to spread as much as it wants to, and the result has been painful 
>> bunionettes. My Lake MX-1 shoes, on their MX competition last, sadly 
>> discontinued, have been the best I've found. It also helps that they are 
>> tradition lace-up shoes. Well, helped ... apparently there's no market for 
>> that feature anymore.
>>
>> Top tip for checking shoe fit. Pull out the insoles and stand on them. 
>> You'll immediately see th

Re: [RBW] Northern Hemisphere Summer Riding Photos 2023

[Drew Saunders]

Kim,

Old La Honda and Stage (which you might have taken near San Gregorio) are 
closed: https://www.smcgov.org/publicworks/county-road-closures
Hwy 84, which is how I usually get home after riding Old La Honda, has some 
seriously scary 
damage: 
https://dot.ca.gov/caltrans-near-me/district-4/d4-projects/d4-san-mateo-84-storm-damage

I think OLH is closed at the very top, so I may ride up it to the closure 
and then back down again this weekend.

Drew

On Tuesday, July 4, 2023 at 4:01:13 PM UTC-7 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hi Drew,
>
> I, personally, have never been nor set foot on or to the Mountain Winery 
> in Saratoga in California. However, I have been by that road entrance on 
> Hwy 9 many times over that led up to it. 
>
> Back in the 70's, I went to a school up off of Sanborn Road on Pick Road 
> that led to a plateau overlooking the Paul Mason Vineyards from a distance. 
> The name of the school I went to was Valley Christian High School, of which 
> I attended for four years. 
>
> I did ride my bicycle to school one time. That was a big adventure from 
> Mountain View, where I lived with my parents. I rode my first ten speed 
> bicycle; a Batavus. Going down Sanborn Road was quite exhilarating to say 
> none the least. 
>
> Now, the high school I went to has been turned into a summer camp and a 
> wedding venue with a lot of new amenities, especially a large pool. It is 
> called Walden West. 
>  http://www.waldenwestfoundation.org/
>
> I did a lot of bicycle riding up Old LaHonda from Page Mill Road to 
> Skyline and over to the coast to San Gregorio. I rode Skyline to Half Moon 
> Bay. 
>
> Kim Hetzel
> Yelm, WA. 
>
> On Tuesday, July 4, 2023 at 12:26:55 PM UTC-7 Drew Saunders wrote:
>
>> Took the Riv up to the Mountain Winery in Saratoga, CA today (almost more 
>> famous for the concerts and other events there than the wine). Even though 
>> I've lived here for many years, this is only my 2nd time riding up these 
>> hills. Most of the hills I usually ride around here are getting road 
>> repairs from this past winter's really heavy storms, so I'm broadening my 
>> route selection. 
>> [image: Panasonic-LX5-P1040361-20230704.jpg][image: 
>> Panasonic-LX5-P1040360-20230704.jpg][image: 
>> Panasonic-LX5-P1040359-20230704.jpg]
>> The new Swift Kestrel did a fine job holding the vest and arm warmers 
>> that I really didn't need (I keep forgetting how much warmer it is just a 
>> little south of where I live), plus the little Panasonic LX5 camera that 
>> was used to take these photos.
>>
>> I'm also really liking my "one by with bailout" 26-42, 11-28 gearing. I 
>> only used the front derailleur four times (two downshift, two upshift) for 
>> the Mount Eden and Pierce roads, and mostly just stayed in the 42 for I'm 
>> guessing about 90-95% of the ride, which is what I wanted with this 
>> gearing. I used the whole cassette with the 42 'ring, and the 17 through 25 
>> with the 26 chainring.
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Northern Hemisphere Summer Riding Photos 2023

[Drew Saunders]

The gate was closed, I took that photo just outside the gate. I've never 
even been to the winery, but I've been told the hill past the gate is quite 
steep. My 3x9 gearing had a 24x23 low gear, so I've added a lower bailout 
from what I used to have. Anything too steep for that I'd probably not 
ride, or just walk.

On Wednesday, July 5, 2023 at 8:38:54 AM UTC-7 pi...@gmail.com wrote:

> What I want to know is how did you get over that gate? I've always wanted 
> to ride all the way up to the concert venue but it always said no bikes. 
> Your 26x28 gearing is still a higher bailout gear than my 40x51 (or 38x51 
> on the roadini). I use the lowest gear on Bohlman-On Orbit-Bohlman (and 
> once on Rapley trail which is a knee buster with nearly 30% grades) and 
> it's just enough. 
>
> On Tuesday, July 4, 2023 at 12:26:55 PM UTC-7 Drew Saunders wrote:
>
>> Took the Riv up to the Mountain Winery in Saratoga, CA today (almost more 
>> famous for the concerts and other events there than the wine). Even though 
>> I've lived here for many years, this is only my 2nd time riding up these 
>> hills. Most of the hills I usually ride around here are getting road 
>> repairs from this past winter's really heavy storms, so I'm broadening my 
>> route selection. 
>> [image: Panasonic-LX5-P1040361-20230704.jpg][image: 
>> Panasonic-LX5-P1040360-20230704.jpg][image: 
>> Panasonic-LX5-P1040359-20230704.jpg]
>> The new Swift Kestrel did a fine job holding the vest and arm warmers 
>> that I really didn't need (I keep forgetting how much warmer it is just a 
>> little south of where I live), plus the little Panasonic LX5 camera that 
>> was used to take these photos.
>>
>> I'm also really liking my "one by with bailout" 26-42, 11-28 gearing. I 
>> only used the front derailleur four times (two downshift, two upshift) for 
>> the Mount Eden and Pierce roads, and mostly just stayed in the 42 for I'm 
>> guessing about 90-95% of the ride, which is what I wanted with this 
>> gearing. I used the whole cassette with the 42 'ring, and the 17 through 25 
>> with the 26 chainring.
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: A few Swift bags at Sierra.com

[Drew Saunders]

Patrick, Rich, Ryan,

Thanks for the kind words. I was wondering if it was worth the review, on 
the assumption that this kind of deal wouldn't last, but I just checked and 
that bag is still in stock. I think I'll test it out with a camera this 
weekend.

Drew

On Monday, June 26, 2023 at 8:50:53 AM UTC-7 Ryan wrote:

> I've had that Brand V bag since...2012 or so? It is a great bag...but the 
> zippers(YKK I think)  aren't working as smoothly as I'd like and there is 
> some fraying/unravelling of the fabric around the zipper track. Maybe 
> operator error. I suspect maybe some beeswax or even a dry bar of soap 
> along the teeth might help things along
>
> On Monday, June 26, 2023 at 9:49:22 AM UTC-5 RichS wrote:
>
>> Drew, you just raised the bar (no pun intended) on product reporting! 
>> Well done. Nice price on a compact bag that deceptively holds more than it 
>> looks like it would.
>> The Swift bar bag reminds me a little bit of the old (not waterproof) Riv 
>> Brand V handlebar bag shown below. Not wide like the Candybar bag but 
>> decent depth and in my experience good capacity. Enjoy your new bag.
>>
>> Best,
>> Rich in ATL
>> [image: BrandV bag.jpg]
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, June 25, 2023 at 9:08:14 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Drew: Eloquent and witty report; appreciated.
>>>
>>> Patrick Moore, who now thinks of finding a Swift bar bag to replace the 
>>> somewhat intrusive large "gas tank" bag on his Monocog 29er. (I'd also 
>>> consider a Candy Bar bag or clone.)
>>>
>>> On Sat, Jun 24, 2023 at 2:08 PM Drew Saunders  
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> OK, as promised, photos of the new Swift Kestrel bag.
>>>>
>>>> First, the payload: 
>>>> [image: Fuji-X-E3-DSCF1045-20230624.jpg]
>>>>
>>>> Now, all of that in the Candy Bar Bag (which they stopped selling years 
>>>> ago). Sometimes called a "handlebar tube." It originally had leather 
>>>> straps 
>>>> with buckles, but I preferred being able to get it tight to the handlebars 
>>>> with some Velcro straps instead:
>>>> [image: Fuji-X-E3-DSCF1046-20230624.jpg]
>>>>
>>>> Next, the same payload (vest, gloves, more gloves, phone) in the Swift 
>>>> Kestrel:
>>>> [image: Fuji-X-E3-DSCF1047-20230624.jpg]
>>>>
>>>> As you can see, it's deeper, so the volume is the same. If I had 
>>>> "slammed" my stem, it might get too close to the brakes, but I don't have 
>>>> the lower back flexibility of a 20 year old gymnast, so my handlebars are 
>>>> level with my saddle like a civilized old person. Yes, that's the 
>>>> Quickbeam 
>>>> in the background. No, I'm not 100% sure I like the red electrical tape 
>>>> with the bar tape, but I was out of blue. I did try twine, but this is the 
>>>> Newbaum's padded cotton tape, so I couldn't get the twine to work well.
>>>>
>>>> With a load, it hangs just a bit lower than when empty (I just used it 
>>>> to carry my phone this morning), so doesn't block my little "be seen" 
>>>> headlight. Mostly empty, it was a bit too close to the headlight.
>>>>
>>>> Here's the attachment straps, which might be a bit "hand pokey" with 
>>>> the points on the grey buckle that poke into the holes on the black 
>>>> plastic 
>>>> strap. Yes, I should polish my brass bell, and you can just barely see the 
>>>> new brass washers on the Silver bar-end shifters! I think I'll have to get 
>>>> good at making sure the grey buckles are away from my hands:
>>>> [image: Fuji-X-E3-DSCF1048-20230624.jpg]
>>>>
>>>> Next, same two bags on the Ibis with my WTB ORD bars, where the 
>>>> narrower Swift really works well. The jingle bells are from a Pow Wow, 
>>>> they're used on the ankles of the Jingle Dance, and do a great job of 
>>>> letting folks (and horses) know I'm approaching them on the trails.
>>>> [image: Fuji-X-E3-DSCF1051-20230624.jpg][image: 
>>>> Fuji-X-E3-DSCF1050-20230624.jpg]
>>>>
>>>> Finally, I think the triple attachment system of the Swift (it also has 
>>>> an around-the-head-tube cord) might make me able to use it to take my Fuji 
>>>> X-E3 and 23/2 lens on some rides:
>>>> [image: Swift-With-Fuji.jpg]
>>>>
>>>> Drew
>>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: A few Swift bags at Sierra.com

[Drew Saunders]

Mine arrived from Sierra yesterday and I tried it on my Riv on a 24 mile 
ride this morning. I have a Candy Bar Bag, made for Riv by Duluth Pack, 
many years ago for comparison.

The volume is about the same. On cold rides that warm up, I’ve used the 
Candy Bar to carry my vest, wool “dotted” gloves and glove liners as I shed 
them. The Swift Kestrel can handle the same load, which surprised me, as it 
seems smaller.

I like the waterproof phone pocket in front, but doubt I’ll ever use the 
interior zipped pocket.

I think it will be a better fit for my Ibis with original WTB off road drop 
bars, as it’s narrower than the Candy Bar.

I should probably include photos…

Drew

On Monday, June 12, 2023 at 3:59:56 PM UTC-7 Chester wrote:

> A heads-up to anyone who finds this attractive:
>
> https://www.sierra.com/swift-industries~b~41056/
>
> Kestrel handlebar bag in Coyote tan for $60. Anchor hip bag in Black and 
> Coyote for $60. And the Vireo hip bag in Dark Green X-Pac for $50.
>

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[RBW] Re: 3-speeding Quickbeams and SimpleOnes

[Drew Saunders]

My orange Quickbeam came set up as a "2 speed" with 32-40-chainguard 
chainrings on a 74/110 triple (still has those) plus an 18t freewheel.
I immediately made it a "3 speed" with a 17/19 Dos Eno freewheel. The chain 
is too slack for the 32/17 to work, so only 3 options: 40/17 (99% of my 
riding), 40/19, 32/19.
I later added a 22T freewheel to the flip side of the flip/flop hub, which 
will work with the 32, but not the 40, so I have an extremely inconvenient 
4-speed.

I rarely take it out of the 40/17, but the headwinds this morning made me 
wonder if I should have used the 40/19.

All of that was much cheaper and easier than getting an internally geared 
hub, and if I did go for an IGH, I'd get a modern 7 or 8 speed anyway.

On Sunday, June 18, 2023 at 1:57:29 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> There have been threads recently about 2- and 3-speeding Quickbeams and 
> SimpleOnes using multiple chainrings, front derailleur, and rear chain 
> takeup device. I'm curious why people don't use Sturmey Archer AWs? The AW 
> has (per late '90s study by the Human Powered Vehicle Association) as 
> little drag as a clean, well set up derailleur system, and an IGH preserves 
> the simplicity and clean aesthetic of a ss or fixed gear, barring a small 
> cable and shift mechanism.
>
> Pray, why the choice of multiple rings, fd, and rear tensioner? Is it the 
> big jumps in the AW gearing?
>
> Long ago (1990 IIRC) I set up a beater Schwinn 3 speed as a poor man's 
> mountain bike (my companion's Diamond Back was recent with only 6 rear 
> cogs) with a 36 to ring to give, with the 18 t AW cog, 69", 52", and 39" 
> gears, and it did good service on 1 well-remembered ride on very hilly jeep 
> tracks -- and an aside: the Ashtabula crank was a miracle of cheap and 
> durable manufacturing compared to the cottered system.
>
> But 69"-52"-39" is a very useful gear spread.
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Shifters - UNO shifter

[Drew Saunders]

Yes, this is correct. Road Shimano/SRAM are 8-9-10, and 11 is a newer 
standard that should ship with a spacer to handle 8-9-10. That's what 
happened with my Velocity wheel that I just bought. I was on 9 speed, so I 
kept the spacer and moved my cassette from my (rim failed) older hub. Then, 
when I went to 11, I removed the spacer and made sure to keep it! I wonder 
if 8-9-10 cassettes are being sold with spacers yet? That would be nice.

Since I'm using a regular Ultegra 8/9/10 (sold as a 9 speed) long cage RD 
with my Silver shifter, all I had to do was back out the low set screw a 
bit and it's working great with the 11 speed cassette.

Anyway, the Uno is designed for clutch RDs that need a *lot* more pull.

On Tuesday, June 6, 2023 at 9:23:07 AM UTC-7 Josiah Anderson wrote:

> Uhh... I'm pretty certain that 8-9-10 speed Shimano/Sram freehub bodies 
> are all the same width. It's 7 speed that is narrower. From 8 to 9 cogs and 
> 9 to 10 they just decreased the spacing between cogs and didn't change the 
> overall width. 7 to 8 and 10 to 11 is when the width changed. Mountain 11 
> speed cassettes will fit on an 8 speed freehub because of the dished 
> largest cog, but not road 11 with a flat large cog.
>
> Josiah Anderson 
> Usually in Missoula, MT 
>
> Le mar. 6 juin 2023 à 5:10 AM, lconley  a écrit :
>
>> You likely cannot put a road 10, 11, or 12 speed cassette on an 8 speed 
>> hub (35.4mm), and 9 speed (36.5mm) is pretty iffy also. It is possible that 
>> the 8 speed cassette is on a wider hub with a spacer, but you need to 
>> check. Shimano 11 speed mountain cassettes fit 9 speed width hubs, so you 
>> can get at least 10 of the cogs on an 8 speed hub.
>>
>> Just as a reference point, I shift an 11 speed Dura Ace cassette with a 
>> downtube Silver1 shifter with Dura Ace 9 speed derailleur. I kind of prefer 
>> the long lever movement so that I don't skip any of the closely spaced 
>> gears. I also prefer the looks of the Silver1 over the Silver2. I keep 
>> threatening to grind down a Silver2 and put a Rustines Gum Shifter Cover on 
>> it, for a little less throw without the bulk of the Silver2 shifter.
>>
>> Laing
>>
>> On Monday, June 5, 2023 at 7:43:41 PM UTC-4 Stephanie A. wrote:
>>
>> I'm looking forward to reading how you like it. The spouse wants more 
>> gears and the fastest way to do it is to get him a 10- or 11-speed cassette 
>> and a friction shifter since his Breezer Downtown EX came as a 1x8.
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Gearing (was Getting Over My Head)

[Drew Saunders]

This 
article: 
https://road.cc/content/tech-news/primoz-roglic-uses-gravel-gearing-decisive-giro-tt-301511
Says he used the "XPLR-1271" from SRAM, which only offers a 10-44 
(10,11,13,15,17,19,21,24,28,32,38,44) cassette, with even chainrings 
between 38 through 46, most likely a 44. I don't know if there are better 
articles on what he ended up using but with a 44t ring, that's a 4.4:1 
through 1:1 range. 

On Wednesday, May 31, 2023 at 7:27:29 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Garth: Do you by any chance know what cog combination or what a typical 
> cog combination would be for such a climb by a pro? I'll be he didn't use a 
> 52 t inner cog and that he had a pretty close spread in the center of the 
> cassette, but would be happy to be proved right or wrong by evidence.
>
> As to 1Xs for pro racing: with 11 or 12 cogs, do pros need to shift 
> between rings at all, even using 2Xs, except at major terrain transitions?
>
> I got my collection of 10 sp Miche cogs at Cycle Clinic in the UK.
>
> On Tue, May 30, 2023 at 7:23 PM Garth  wrote:
>
>> I was watching the uphill penultimate TT road racing stage of the Giro D' 
>> Italia this weekend where the eventual winner Primoz Roglic chose to run a 
>> 1x for his TT bike. The announcers were "praising" him for the 
>> "innovative" choice of using a mtb gearing setup for the TT. Well lo and 
>> behold, at a low speed(which is fast for mere mortals, hah hah) he was 
>> about 2/3 up the course and he ran over what appeared to be a small break 
>> in the road crosswise and his chain derailed off the ring. He put it back 
>> on cool as a cucumber and still trounced everyone, but so much for 1x's not 
>> failing like any other system, because they do. 
>>
>> I also ran across a video of a "pro" mechanic touting stuff he likes. I 
>> was with him on some things, then he mention that cables were so passe',  
>> and that the way to go is electronic shifting and 1x. A lifetime of buying 
>> failing batteries, waning replacements, software updates and subscription 
>> fees  yummm ... doesn't that sound appealing ? 
>>
>> In regards to cassette cogs, the Miche 8-11sp are available from European 
>> websites, let your fingers do the walkin'. Also, Sunrace 7-9 speed lower 
>> end cassettes(no spiders) are all held together with removable pins. Find a 
>> backside photo of the potential cassette and you can confirm it. 
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Front Derailleur Suggestions

[Drew Saunders]

When I was looking for a new FD for my 26-42, I looked at 7400's on eBay, 
but they weren't really all that cheap, or were quite beat up. I ended up 
with a c. 1990 Campagnolo Croce d'Aune FD from the UK that had been cleaned 
and polished so it looked like new, and it shifts the 26-42 very well. I 
also liked the idea of having as many manufacturers as possible in my drive 
train (Shimano RD, SRAM chain and cassette, Velocity hub, Silver bar-end 
shifters and Campy FD)

Drew

On Tuesday, March 28, 2023 at 11:42:56 AM UTC-7 bmfo...@gmail.com wrote:

> I've also had good luck with the 7400... currently shifting a 44/24 combo 
> quite nicely. They seem to still be reasonable on ebay but certainly are 
> more like $40-$70.
>
> Brian
>
> On Tuesday, March 28, 2023 at 1:30:11 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> Hehe, if you ever need to make rent put that nice used Dura-Ace mech on 
>> Ebay now 💸💸💸
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 28, 2023 at 11:28:17 AM UTC-7 Kieran J wrote:
>>
>>> Well, maybe I shouldn't speak in such absolutes :-) I got a nice used 
>>> one on eBay many years ago for $15. YMMV!
>>>
>>> KJ
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, March 28, 2023 at 9:18:22 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
 +1. My 7400-series FDs shift a 42/28 perfectly despite having to be set 
 rather high above the 42 t ring. In fact, they have to be set high to 
 clear 
 the BBBashguard in the outer position.

 Kieran: "Cheap," did you say? I'd like to get a spare; what's your 
 source?

 On Mon, Mar 27, 2023 at 6:42 PM Kieran J  wrote:

> My favourite FD for this type of scenario is the Dura-Ace 7400 double. 
> It works amazing on a compact wide-range crankset. Cheap as chips too.
>
> KJ
>


 -- 

 ---
 Patrick Moore
 Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum



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[RBW] Re: Riv Riders Interactive Map is Live!

[Drew Saunders]

Good idea! I found the street address of my nearest post office and changed 
my answer to that. It's close enough, and if any bike thieves go there, 
they'll be very, very, confused.

On Sunday, March 19, 2023 at 10:05:08 PM UTC-7 iamkeith wrote:

> This is great.  Thanks for putting it together! 
>  I have couple of suggestions, more for the participant pi-droppers than 
> for John:
>
> 1)  Please be cautious and think twice about listing your actual home 
> address.  Especially if you live somewhere like Denver or Oakland, where 
> bike theft is a major industry.  Thieves could use this info to stake-out 
> and target your place.
>
> 2)  it would be great to list the model(s) and size(s) of bikes you own.  
> So many times I wish I could have test-ridden something, but didn't know 
> how to find an example nearby.  This could really help.
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, March 16, 2023 at 5:33:44 PM UTC-6 John Rinker wrote:
>
>> The map is growing nicely! Got riders in Oceania and Europe on the map! 
>> Still awaiting the first rider in Sri Lanka to pop up.
>>
>> If you've added yourself, to the map please note that you can edit your 
>> responses in case you...I don't know...get a new bike? Change your riding 
>> style? Misspelled your name? Move from Arizona to Babylonia? 
>>
>> To do this, simply click on the 'Riv Rider Registration' and you can 
>> choose to 'Edit your response.' 
>>
>> Cheers, John
>>
>> On Saturday, March 11, 2023 at 12:59:58 PM UTC-8 John Rinker wrote:
>>
>>> The Map of Riv Riders is ready!* Thanks to Dave's example of the 
>>> 'Unicycle Community Map' I've put together a similar interactive map that 
>>> Riv Riders can now populate with your location. 
>>>
>>> As mentioned, the purpose of this map is to help Riv riders find each 
>>> other, connect and plan rides.
>>>
>>> Here's a link to the site:
>>>
>>> Map of Rivendell Riders 
>>> 
>>>
>>> There is a Google form registration that, once completed and manually 
>>> updated by me, will put a pin of your location on the map. 
>>>
>>> You can 'drop' this pin in a couple of ways:
>>>
>>> 1. Provide your address
>>>
>>> 2. Provide a random address in your city or town
>>>
>>> 3. Provide map coordinates (latitude, longitude)
>>>
>>> Check it out and if it seems interesting to you then register and wait 
>>> for your pin to show up. 
>>>
>>> Cheers, John
>>>
>>> *I'll call it a beta version because I just learned how to connect 
>>> Google forms, maps, and sites together. Seems to work well though.
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: The Riv goes "Spinal Tap"

[Drew Saunders]

Nick,

Thanks for that information. This explains all the various options 
well: 
https://brainybiker.com/can-you-put-an-11-speed-cassette-on-a-10-speed-hub-fast-answer/

Shimano’s SLX line is reasonably affordable, and they make an 11-40. More 
stuff to contemplate for next winter.

Drew

On Sunday, February 26, 2023 at 2:23:27 AM UTC-8 Nick Payne wrote:

> On Sunday, 26 February 2023 at 9:11:13 am UTC+11 Drew Saunders wrote:
>
> The hub on the Ibis is 8/9/10 only, but I may convert it to 2x10 next 
> rainy season.
>
>
> The Shimano 11-34 11s cassettes fit fine on 8/9/10-speed HG hubs. As do 
> all the larger 11s MTB cassettes. The bracing angle of the spokes means 
> that the large cog on those cassettes can sit further inwards than the 
> large cog on smaller cassettes, so they are made with the large cog 
> overhanging to the inside, and will fit on the older hubs. If you fit one 
> of those cassettes to a hub intended for 11s road cassettes, you need to 
> fit a 1.8mm spacer on the inside of the cassette, or the lockring will 
> bottom out before it has tightened on the cassette.
>
> Nick Payne
>

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[RBW] Re: The Riv goes "Spinal Tap"

[Drew Saunders]

Thanks, Luke and Ryan, for the kind comments.

There was enough of a break in the rain to take it out for a ride today. 
I’m visiting my mom in Florida next week, so I won’t get in another ride 
for a while.

The 11 speed friction shifting with Silver bar-ends and my old Ultegra 
9-speed RD worked great! I didn’t miss a single downshift, only shifted two 
cogs where I wanted to shift one once, and only had a little grumbling on 
one upshift, which was easily corrected. With a bit more practice, it’ll be 
smoother than my 9 speed indexed shifting. It’s already *Much* quieter!

Oddly, even though I have a more standard high-normal RD (Rapid Rise is 
also called “low normal,” with the difference being which end of the range 
the derailleur goes to with no cable tension), I found it easier to 
downshift than up. I suppose this is the result of 40 years of refinements 
to the chains and cassettes for indexing making them so easy to friction 
shift.

Being old, I learned on a 2x5 “10 speed” with downtube Shimano 600 friction 
shifting. My 1989 college graduation present was a Bianchi Volpe with 
Suntour 3x7 indexed, and Suntour didn’t index very well, so I switched it 
to friction after a year or so. My next experience with friction was when 
the 8 speed bar-end shifters on my Ibis Mojo MTB got sloppy after about 12 
years, so the derailleur didn’t consistently get to the right spot, so I 
moved the adjuster to friction and used them that way for a season, then 
converted that bike to 3x9 indexed. Shimano clearly learned a lesson, as my 
9 speed bar-cons are much stiffer than the 8, but have lasted 15+ years 
without any change in the quality of their shifting. Still, that stiffness 
can be a bother.

As expected for a flat ride, I never moved the front derailleur, and 
somehow got it in just the right spot so I didn’t have to trim it to avoid 
chain rub as I ran the whole cassette. I didn’t really need the 42-28, I 
just wanted to test the whole range a couple of times. I’m not sure if I 
just had great luck, or if I’ll be able to consistently find this sweet 
spot, we’ll see after I try a hillier ride and use the small ring. I kept 
reaching for the left shifter out of habit, but I’ll be happy to do most of 
my rides in “one-by” mode.

The hub on the Ibis is 8/9/10 only, but I may convert it to 2x10 next rainy 
season.

Drew

On Tuesday, February 21, 2023 at 4:38:08 AM UTC-8 Ryan wrote:

> I remember you writing about that bike! Nice! I'm glad you still have it.I 
> think it was the reason I ordered a 2nd Riv , a Riv road in 2000...and I 
> almost went for red but switched to Harvest Gold
>
> Off-topic...I can relate about working in IT and being on-call. Before I 
> retired in 2018 from Canada Life as a software developer, I was on call 
> either from 6am to 6pm or 24X7 for roughly one week per month and the 24X7 
> shifts meant you were pretty much  tethered to the homestead...and of 
> course, once the phone rings or pager goes off, you have to get on it. And 
> just try going back to sleep after fixing a problem at 3am. Don't miss it, 
> that's for sure
>
> On Tuesday, February 21, 2023 at 1:28:47 AM UTC-6 Luke Hendrickson wrote:
>
>>
>> Drew,
>>
>> This bike is utterly perfect! Great choice in gearing, too. 
>> On Monday, February 20, 2023 at 3:03:56 PM UTC-8 Drew Saunders wrote:
>>
>>> "This goes to eleven!"
>>> After having to get a new rear wheel for my 1999 Red Rivendell, which 
>>> came with a spacer to use less than 11 speeds (I had a 9-speed cassette), I 
>>> got to thinking, then I got to budgeting, then I got to buying and today, 
>>> since I'm on call for work (I work in IT, and one week in 10 I have to be 
>>> on call should some important network device have issues off hours, so I 
>>> don't go on long bike rides on my on-call weekend), I decided to change my 
>>> Riv from 3x9 to 2x11. It now "goes to eleven!" just like Nigel Tufnel's 
>>> amps!
>>>
>>> I ordered the silver bar-end shifters and pods and hoped that everyone 
>>> was correct in that these would shift 11 speeds with a traditional 9-speed 
>>> rear derailleur. I have an Ultegra "long cage" from about 15 years ago (?) 
>>> that has served me well, and still works fine. Spoiler alert: works fine!
>>>
>>> I had originally wanted to get the Rene Herse cranks, but they were 
>>> perpetually out of stock, then Soma had their big holiday sale, so I got 
>>> the New Albion 26-42-chainguard cranks and IRD BB for about 1/3 of the 
>>> price of the Rene Herse.
>>>
>>> I found a Campagnolo Croce D'Aune front derailleur on Ebay from the UK 
>>> which the previous owner had scrubbed so well it looked new. Th

Re: [RBW] Re: Signing up for Scary Things: Intro to Bike Mechanics

[Drew Saunders]

Leah,

Brava! I've done most of my own bike work for the past mumble-mumble years 
(about 30 or so), and I did twice try to build wheels, only to realize it's 
best to have someone who knows what they're doing build wheels. I did get 
better at truing wheels after trying to build them. If you think of it, 
most bike work involves threaded things, so just tightening or loosening 
threaded things to get what you want. Other than the left pedal and right 
BB cup being left-handed threading, it's not too difficult to learn how to 
fix things. (Old mnemonic to remember the two left-hand threaded parts for 
when every bike used loose bearing BBs, where the fixed cup is on the right 
and the adjustable cup is on the left; "left is loony, fixed is funny", but 
that doesn't work too well with cartridge BB's). 

The best YouTube videos are from Park Tools. 

I've built up a good tool kit over the years, and just today had to buy a 
new crank puller, because my beautifully made 1980's Sugino crank puller 
doesn't work on modern cranks, so I was in a bind with my bike mostly 
disassembled. I found a bike shop open before 11, and open on a Monday, and 
got the Pedro's tool, so now I have yet another bike tool! Yay!

Drew

On Monday, February 20, 2023 at 1:07:03 PM UTC-8 Joe D. wrote:

> It's neat to see others going through the bike mechanics learning too. 
>
> I've found the book "Zinn and the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance" to be 
> super helpful, especially in combination with the Park Tool videos. I'm 
> sure Zinn's road bike book is good too.
>
>
>
> On Monday, February 20, 2023 at 1:29:35 PM UTC-7 Roberta wrote:
> There’s someone in the Philadelphia area (I’m not connected to seller) who 
> is selling intermediate/advanced toolkit.   We could get up a collection 
> and present it to our BBDD!  :). 
>
> [image: 00t0t_kpqv0cE1i5O_0t20CI_600x450.jpg]
> intermediate/advanced tool kit - bicycle parts - by owner - bike sale 
> 
> philadelphia.craigslist.org 
> 
>
> 
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 20, 2023, at 3:10 PM, George Schick  wrote:
>
> To those responding to this post who are saying they're gradually 
> learning to do most everything (adjusting, changing components, etc.) 
> except wheel building, I say *don't underrate yourself!*  With a good 
> resource (personally, I'd recommend Sheldon Brown's step-by-step 
> methodology available on-line) and a little fooling around and practice *you 
> can do it!  *
>
> Also, as you go along and figure out how to do replacement and maintenance 
> of various components, be prepared to buy some specialized tools.  Just 
> like almost everything on a bike, you'll discover that a specific tool is 
> needed to do the job correctly.  That's not to say that you need anything 
> more than a small screwdriver and some hex key wrenches to make minor 
> adjustments to deraillers or to change brake cables...you don't.  But when 
> it comes to things like replacing headsets or bottom brackets you'll need 
> some unique tools.
>
> On Monday, February 20, 2023 at 10:55:18 AM UTC-6 Stephanie A. wrote:
> I love this, Leah! I've been doing what I can on my bike, and now that I'm 
> really starting to change components I'm starting to learn more and more. 
> My hope is that once I'm done adjusting components on this bike I can be in 
> an okay place to eventually build up my own from a frame and fork 
> (wheel-building excluded--I'll leave that to the wheel pros).
>
> On Monday, February 20, 2023 at 11:49:54 AM UTC-5 velomann wrote:
> I'm (mostly) self-taught as far as wrenching goes. I started decades ago 
> maintaining my own bikes, then buying and repairing and re-selling bikes 
> from CL. I eventually got to the point where I could strip a bike to the 
> bare frame and rebuild everything. The only formal class I took was a wheel 
> building class from Jude K. when she owned Sugar Wheelworks (One of the 
> best birthday gifts my wife ever gave me) and now that's a skill in my 
> quiver. I worked 30 years as a middle school LA/SS teacher (bike commuted 
> every day) and hanging out with the bikes in the basement was a form of 
> therapy and decompression. Now, I'm semi-retired. I work as a substitute 
> teacher 2 days/week, and a professional bike mechanic (!) 3 days/week at Go 
> By Bike, "North America's largest bike valet service" 
> https://www.gobybikepdx.com/  I'm living my best life.
> a few months ago I had a valet client who was complaining that she 
> couldn't get her seat low enough. I pulled the seat, put the post in the 
> vice, cut 6 inches off the bottom, touched up the edges with a file, and 
> remounted it in the position she wanted. I took the remaining section of 
> sea

[RBW] Re: Rivs on film

[Drew Saunders]

Rich,

Not sure which photo with trees you're referencing. Anyway, yes, I take my 
whole 4x5 setup in my RPT ("Renaissance Photo Tech") modified Kelty 
backpack with my more or less full sized Manfrotto carbon fiber tripod 
strapped to the side. RPT made a nice system of a backboard that you 
inserted into the modified backpacks (modified with full zippers and a few 
other things), to which you attached camera or lens boxes via hook and loop 
to make the photo backpack of your needs. Sadly, the owner retired and sold 
off everything (I got a few things for sale). I don't go far with that on 
my quickbeam, no more than 3 miles each way, and I don't go fast, but it's 
essentially the same kit I would take if I put it all in the trunk of my 
car.

Camera, up to 6 lenses, up to 9 holders, dark cloth, meter, loupe, tape 
measure, extra bag bellows, extra focusing screen for wide angle lenses, 
and a few other things all fit in there. It's not light, of course! 

I'll get a photo of me on the bike with this setup sometime.

Drew

On Sunday, February 12, 2023 at 9:41:19 AM UTC-8 RichS wrote:

> Hi Drew,
>
> Nice work! I especially like the image of the trees (third one going to 
> the right). That's some quality printing! I'm impressed you're toting a 4x5 
> while riding your Quickbeam. Do you carry a small tripod for the Ebony? 
> Back in the day I used a variety of 4x5s and a very old Ansco 8x10. My last 
> 4x5 was a Deardorff, made in Chicago. With a Tiltall tripod, film holder, 
> light meter, etc. it never ocurred to me to try and fit onto a bike!
>
> Best,
> Rich in ATL
>
> On Thursday, February 9, 2023 at 12:19:25 PM UTC-5 Drew Saunders wrote:
>
>> Looking at my Flickr stream, I only found two photos of my Riv taken with 
>> a film camera. I thought I had done more over the years, but maybe I just 
>> haven't scanned them and put them up.
>> https://flic.kr/p/67KheV
>> https://flic.kr/p/67PtfS
>>
>> They're obviously taken one after the other, back on Pi Day of 2009. I 
>> don't recall if I had any pie that day. Anyway, I have long since sold that 
>> Fuji GA645zi medium format "monster point and shoot" (of course, I sold it 
>> before the prices exploded...grumble), but I do ride my Quickbeam when I'm 
>> taking the large format 4x5" Ebony camera out to shoot at local gardens. I 
>> just haven't yet turned the lens on the bike, maybe I will next time.
>>
>> That Fuji camera had a data back, so it could imprint focal length and 
>> exposure information in the gap between frames, which was quite handy. 
>>
>> Drew
>>
>> On Thursday, February 9, 2023 at 8:29:44 AM UTC-8 jamin orrall wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks Eric! I appreciate all your contributions to this forum.
>>>
>>> Thank you Shoji, I bought the frames secondhand from 2 different owners. 
>>> By coincidence I ended up with 2 Waterfords with custom paint that I did 
>>> not pick but I am enjoying the colors as well, they really blend in with 
>>> the landscape.
>>>
>>> On Thursday, February 9, 2023 at 7:06:24 AM UTC-8 Shoji Takahashi wrote:
>>>
>>>> Great colors-- something special about film. 
>>>>
>>>> Speaking of colors, I love that color on the Atlantis.
>>>>
>>>> Shoji
>>>> Arlington MA
>>>>
>>>> On Thursday, February 9, 2023 at 8:46:45 AM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Dang, Jamin, these are great. I especially like that pic of your Homer 
>>>>> in shadow with the mountains in the sun. Really good! 
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wednesday, February 8, 2023 at 8:17:57 PM UTC-5 jamin orrall wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Accidentally posted this to ibob so I'm moving it here! (pretty 
>>>>>> Rivendell specific)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Got a roll of film back yesterday and it had several shots of my 
>>>>>> bikes/rides! I thought ya'll might enjoy! Feel free to post any recent 
>>>>>> Rivendell film shots if you have some.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Taken with a Nikon FE on Kodak portra film.   Still learning how to 
>>>>>> use an slr and it's kinda heavy/bulky but I got inspired by all those 
>>>>>> RSF 
>>>>>> riders with big honkin cameras slung across their backs.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Jamin
>>>>>>
>>>>>> [image: 05810033 Large.jpeg]
>>>>>> [image: 05810029 Large.jpeg][image: 05810023 Large.jpeg][image: 
>>>>>> 05810020 Large.jpeg]
>>>>>>
>>>>>> [image: 05810008 Large.jpeg][image: 05810007 Large.jpeg]
>>>>>> [image: 05810015 Large.jpeg]
>>>>>>
>>>>>

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[RBW] Re: Rivs on film

[Drew Saunders]

Looking at my Flickr stream, I only found two photos of my Riv taken with a 
film camera. I thought I had done more over the years, but maybe I just 
haven't scanned them and put them up.
https://flic.kr/p/67KheV
https://flic.kr/p/67PtfS

They're obviously taken one after the other, back on Pi Day of 2009. I 
don't recall if I had any pie that day. Anyway, I have long since sold that 
Fuji GA645zi medium format "monster point and shoot" (of course, I sold it 
before the prices exploded...grumble), but I do ride my Quickbeam when I'm 
taking the large format 4x5" Ebony camera out to shoot at local gardens. I 
just haven't yet turned the lens on the bike, maybe I will next time.

That Fuji camera had a data back, so it could imprint focal length and 
exposure information in the gap between frames, which was quite handy. 

Drew

On Thursday, February 9, 2023 at 8:29:44 AM UTC-8 jamin orrall wrote:

> Thanks Eric! I appreciate all your contributions to this forum.
>
> Thank you Shoji, I bought the frames secondhand from 2 different owners. 
> By coincidence I ended up with 2 Waterfords with custom paint that I did 
> not pick but I am enjoying the colors as well, they really blend in with 
> the landscape.
>
> On Thursday, February 9, 2023 at 7:06:24 AM UTC-8 Shoji Takahashi wrote:
>
>> Great colors-- something special about film. 
>>
>> Speaking of colors, I love that color on the Atlantis.
>>
>> Shoji
>> Arlington MA
>>
>> On Thursday, February 9, 2023 at 8:46:45 AM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Dang, Jamin, these are great. I especially like that pic of your Homer 
>>> in shadow with the mountains in the sun. Really good! 
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, February 8, 2023 at 8:17:57 PM UTC-5 jamin orrall wrote:
>>>
 Accidentally posted this to ibob so I'm moving it here! (pretty 
 Rivendell specific)

 Got a roll of film back yesterday and it had several shots of my 
 bikes/rides! I thought ya'll might enjoy! Feel free to post any recent 
 Rivendell film shots if you have some.

 Taken with a Nikon FE on Kodak portra film.   Still learning how to use 
 an slr and it's kinda heavy/bulky but I got inspired by all those RSF 
 riders with big honkin cameras slung across their backs.

 Jamin

 [image: 05810033 Large.jpeg]
 [image: 05810029 Large.jpeg][image: 05810023 Large.jpeg][image: 
 05810020 Large.jpeg]

 [image: 05810008 Large.jpeg][image: 05810007 Large.jpeg]
 [image: 05810015 Large.jpeg]

>>>

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[RBW] Re: Jobst Brandt thought experiment: What would he ride today?

[Drew Saunders]

I remember on r.b.tech Jobst said he ran a 47-50 half step up front with a 
modified "ultra 6" 13-24 freewheel in the back. He took a 12-24 7 speed and 
removed the 12 so that it would fit on a 126mm OLD hub that was more evenly 
dished, so that there was only space for a 5 speed or "Ultra 6" freewheel. 
Basically, a 120mm hub in 126mm of space, if that makes any sense. 

Later, he admitted he didn't really half step all that often, so he was 
going up those Alpine roads in a 50x24. My knees hurt just thinking about 
that.

I only met him briefly once, and I was trying to figure out why a bike with 
what appeared to be only one chainring had a front derailleur. He always 
rode yellow bikes to make it easier to find cracks in the frame. At 6'7" 
(2m) tall, he expected to break frames.

I'm sure he'd be using a "one by" today.

The only time I've seen Tom Ritchey around here is when he blew past me 
like I was standing still while we were both commuting home one evening. 
Dude is fast!

On Wednesday, February 1, 2023 at 6:22:54 AM UTC-8 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> I can't wrap my head around the gearing in the pictures Jeremy shared. 
> Good lord! He was pushing some big gears all the way to the end. 
>
> On Wednesday, February 1, 2023 at 8:24:23 AM UTC-5 lconley wrote:
>
>> I think fillet brazing allowed him complete freedom of frame geometry and 
>> tube sizing, without compromising strength (vs. lugs). I needed somewhat 
>> different geometry and tube sizing on my custom, due to my weight and 
>> lng torso, and that resulted in a fillet brazed bottom bracket as there 
>> were no readily available BB lug. From what I think I know, fillet brazing 
>> is stronger than TIG, as it spreads the stress over a greater area. I think 
>> I also read once that fillet brazing is sometime used over top of TIG.
>>
>> Laing
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 7:36:58 PM UTC-5 Philip Williamson wrote:
>>
>>> I think he'd ride a very similar bike today to the ones he rode for 50 
>>> years. 
>>>
>>>- Steel. He wasn't swayed by aluminum, titanium, or carbon, the 
>>>first time around, so nu-Jobst wouldn't choose them either. Steel is 
>>> still 
>>>tough, reliable, and cheap. 
>>>- Fillet brazed? I imagine this was for aesthetics, but I'd need to 
>>>dive into The Jobst Hole to find out. 
>>>- Rim brakes, not discs. Single pivot sidepulls (??) indicate no 
>>>worries about stopping with a simple, light, rim brake. 
>>>- Supple tires, but still narrow. I would love to see Jobst and Jan 
>>>debate the testing protocol.
>>>- Downtube shifters. Simple, light, easy cabling, and there for the 
>>>two times a day he'd shift. 
>>>- Yellow. 
>>>
>>> Philip 
>>> rec.bicycles.tech
>>> On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 1:59:48 PM UTC-8 andyree...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Laing, I think you made a lot of solid arguments. Custom steel still 
 feels like the way he'd go, and probably not so dissimilar to his 
 no-frills 
 road bikes of yore. I'm certainly grateful for his impact on the bicycle, 
 riders, and builders of today, and for the journalists keeping his name 
 alive!
 On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 3:16:07 PM UTC-6 lconley wrote:

> If he were still around, I think he would probably still have the same 
> setup as the 2008 photo, steel, rim brakes, clipless pedals. 
> But that is not the question that seems to have been posed. As I 
> understand the question, it is if his prime days were now, what would he 
> be 
> riding - basically not a silent generation member, but a later millennial 
> or early gen-Xer, but still a mechanical engineer, still concerned with 
> reliability, and dare I say it, under-biking. So maybe he still ends up 
> on 
> a metal, rimmed braked bike. I think it may be easier to eliminate some 
> things, I don't see him with electronic shifting, that just adds more 
> possible unrepairable-on-the-road failure points. I want to say no disc 
> either - as it adds stress to the fork and reduces the reliability of the 
> front end of the bike. I kind of envision him on a stripped down 80th 
> anniversary Rene-Herse or Rivendell Rodeo, or possibly some sort of 
> titanium frame.
>
> I am a mechanical engineer also, but a boomer.
>
> Laing
>
> On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 1:42:06 PM UTC-5 andyree...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> I think I'd agree that Jobst would remain an advocate for the rim 
>> brake...PROBABLY. But just to play devil's advocate, if Jobst was in his 
>> prime today, he wouldn't have been brought up with the old-school tech 
>> that 
>> we're familiar with him using, but I suppose being a *bit* of a 
>> retrogrouch could still be in his cards. To me, it would depend heavily 
>> on 
>> his opinion towards modern wheel design and if the 11 (or 12) speed hub 
>> would be a yay or nay. A

Re: [RBW] Re: 22 for 2022

[Drew Saunders]

Paul,

That PDW mount looks so good, I just ordered one! Thanks!

I'll try to remember to take pics and share with the group.

Drew

On Mon, Jan 9, 2023 at 12:38 PM 'Bikie#4646' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Drew, thanks for the complement on the photos.
> As to the basket light mount, I've had two of these for so many years, I
> cannot recall their origin. They were designed to mount to a frame or fork
> tube and I adapted them easily for the basket. They aren't as substantial
> as the current mounts made to attach at a frame fitting (like Paul & PDW,
> etc.). So, at first I wasn't sure if they would be trustworthy. They have
> proved to be fine and I'm sure I did not pay much at the time. Your search
> may prove to be more fruitful than mine.
> I looked at the strap on the basket side and one says, "CRONOMETTI" the
> other, made to fit a different tube size, says, "ISSIMO," so your guess is
> as good as my own. It is very likely I got word of this from one of these
> forums.
> Just out: PDW has a newly designed basket mount called the "Outpost
> Mount," made of metal (steel?) so a little on the heavy side but looks
> substantial enough to be able to survive the bike falling over without any
> damage to the light mount.
> I'm headed out for an overnighter on Wednesday and hope to try it out:
>
> https://ridepdw.com/products/outpost-mount-light-mount-for-wire-baskets?_pos=1&_sid=4d2525153&_ss=r
>
> On Monday, January 9, 2023 at 11:50:30 AM UTC-5 Drew Saunders wrote:
>
>> Paul,
>>
>> May I ask what you're using to attach lights to the side of your basket?
>> I made a "fake short handlebar" from an old broomstick and a long bolt to
>> get a light out in front of my fender, but it doesn't work with newer
>> lights, and I like your "tiny fake handlebar attached to the side of the
>> basket" better.
>>
>> Thanks, and great pics, by the way!
>>
>> Drew
>>
>> On Sunday, January 8, 2023 at 2:35:07 PM UTC-8 Bikie#4646 wrote:
>>
>>> *(I've posted this on the i-BOB list too, so forgive me):*
>>> My favorite 22 bike related images for 2022. (Oops, as hard as I tried,
>>> 2 dozen was as close as I could get, so I cheated):
>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/bikecrazy-paul/albums/72177720305087997
>>> The hardest part was to keep it fairly strictly bike related and
>>> bike-trip related. Both of my Rivendells are a major part of the album, but
>>> a few others are in the mix.
>>> What's yours?
>>> Paul Germain
>>> Midlothian, Va.
>>>
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[RBW] Re: 22 for 2022

[Drew Saunders]

Paul,

May I ask what you're using to attach lights to the side of your basket? I 
made a "fake short handlebar" from an old broomstick and a long bolt to get 
a light out in front of my fender, but it doesn't work with newer lights, 
and I like your "tiny fake handlebar attached to the side of the basket" 
better.

Thanks, and great pics, by the way!

Drew

On Sunday, January 8, 2023 at 2:35:07 PM UTC-8 Bikie#4646 wrote:

> *(I've posted this on the i-BOB list too, so forgive me):*
> My favorite 22 bike related images for 2022. (Oops, as hard as I tried, 2 
> dozen was as close as I could get, so I cheated):
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/bikecrazy-paul/albums/72177720305087997
> The hardest part was to keep it fairly strictly bike related and bike-trip 
> related. Both of my Rivendells are a major part of the album, but a few 
> others are in the mix.
> What's yours?
> Paul Germain
> Midlothian, Va.
>

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[RBW] Re: cassette advice?

[Drew Saunders]

How much do you use the 48x11? It’s a pretty high gear, but you may prefer 
a lower cadence than many others. If so, I’ll be the contrarian and suggest 
an 11-23 9 speed. I currently use a 24-36-46 with an 11-23 9 speed on my 
Riv in hilly Silicon Valley, and spend a lot of time in the middle ring. 
I’m gathering parts to convert to 2x11 soon as a rainy winter project.

On Tuesday, December 27, 2022 at 9:45:56 AM UTC-8 Adam wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I'm thinking about changing up the cassette on my Hillborne this winter. 
> I'm currently running an 11-32 (9sp) with 48/36/26 in front.
>
> I've moved to the midwest, and now the closest thing I see to a hill is a 
> freeway overpass. I'd like to try a more compact cassette, thinking 
> something like a 13-28. I somehow have only ridden wide range cassettes, so 
> this is new territory to me. Any advice on this swap?
>
> I also realize the triple front is superfluous, but don't want to swap it 
> unnecessarily, the cassette is getting old, cranks seem fine.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Adam - just back from a ride through Chicago snow.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: What's Good - Wide-ish/flared drops edition...

[Drew Saunders]

Steve Potts has reintroduced a new version of the original WTB dirt drop, 
which Soma is selling: 
https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/steve-potts-original-dirt-drop-bar-31-8-60cm-5910

I have the real original WTB bars, bought in 1999, on my Ibis Mojo, and I 
would definitely get these new ones if I had the space for another bike.

Drew
On Saturday, December 10, 2022 at 9:29:59 AM UTC-8 wboe...@gmail.com wrote:

> Check out WhatBars  to compare profiles for many 
> of the offerings out there.  As I recall, the Portola is a similar profile 
> to the Ritcheys I like, except I needed 31.8 instead of 26.
>
> Will
>
> On Sat, Dec 10, 2022 at 10:34 AM Pancake  wrote:
>
>> Soma Portola - https://www.somafab.com/archives/product/portola-bar
>> 56cm wide at the flared ends but 45.5cm on the hoods
>> Meets your 26mm diameter requirement.
>>
>> That’s where I landed when I was looking for a similar change (wider, 
>> more flared noodle, less drop, less reach). They’ve been great. Though like 
>> another poster, I just swapped them for Albatross bars (though upside down 
>> and with bar ends mounted in the middle so I get a hood like position). 
>> I’ve tried RM-013 and noodles, the the Portola was the best so far. I’m 
>> also curious about the 600mm Towel Rack but haven’t tried it. 
>>
>> Description from soma:
>> This bar is similar to our June Bug dirt drop bar, except it uses a 
>> 26.0mm center and comes in a narrower width. Nice option to try for 
>> adventure touring, trail riding or commuting. 112mm drop. 65mm reach. Grips 
>> have a slight flare. Width at lever mounting area: 41cm (53cm size), 45.5cm 
>> (56cm size) approx.  - Polished 6061 T6 aluminum - 53 and 56cm widths 
>> (measured center to center at bar ends) - 26.0mm center 
>>
>> On Friday, December 9, 2022 at 6:36:15 AM UTC-8 bjmi...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Hey everyone!
>>> I posted earlier about reach in converting to a wider bar and decided to 
>>> start a different conversation to get opinions on wide-ish, flared drops.
>>>
>>> I like the Nitto Noodle quite well, but I think I do want a little flare 
>>> and I don't want to bend them myself. So what's good out there? I'm tempted 
>>> by the Crust Towel Rack, but I'd love to hear what you all like.
>>>
>>> If it helps/matters, the kind of riding I do with the bike it's going is 
>>> casual rails-to-trails, some rolling gravel roads, but nothing too 
>>> technical or serious.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>> Ben
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: 56+ before 55!

[Drew Saunders]

Those bottles came from Rivendell many (10? More?) years ago. 

Drew

> On Jul 29, 2022, at 6:27 AM, Chris Balaschak  wrote:
> 
> 
> Great ride report.
> 
> Can I ask - where did you find those water bottles?
>> On Friday, July 15, 2022 at 9:41:05 PM UTC-4 Drew Saunders wrote:
>> For the past few years, I've tried to ride my age or more on or about my 
>> birthday (this Sunday, the 17th, a.k.a. "World Emoji Day!"). Although not as 
>> impressive as crossing the country, it was still a good ride today.
>> 
>> In 2017, instead of riding 50+ miles for my 50th birthday, I spent my 
>> birthday in the hospital due to a bad reaction to Xeloda, my first 
>> chemotherapy drug. Oh, did I mention that in April of 2017 I found out that 
>> I had adenocarcinoma of the descending colon? I had the colectomy at the end 
>> of May, and started chemo at the end of June (and re-started it at the end 
>> of July with a different drug). That'll put a damper in your riding plans 
>> any day! 
>> 
>> I was able to do a 53 mile ride before turning 51 in 2018, and a 55 mile 
>> ride before turning 52 in 2019. I found my fitness dropping unexpectedly in 
>> 2020, but eventually figured out that it was due to working from home and no 
>> longer walking or biking to work (which is only 2 miles each way, but it 
>> adds up). I added a neighborhood walk to my morning routine and improved my 
>> fitness, but wasn't able to get in a 53+ mile ride for 2020. Then, in 
>> November 2020 (Friday the 13th, of course) I found out that my cancer had 
>> returned in a single tumor in my liver. That (along with 1/4 of my liver) 
>> was removed at the end of December.
>> 
>> 2021 was the year of regrowing my liver, so no long ride that July! I still 
>> got in some medium rides, but didn't make 54KM, much less 54 miles for any 
>> of them.
>> 
>> I set out this morning to do a variation on the same 53 and 55 mile ride I 
>> had done in 2018 and 2019, just with a little more at each end. For the 
>> locals, this is Cañada road to the end, then meander through Woodside, 
>> Portola Valley and Los Altos Hills, then Foothill Expressway/Steven's Canyon 
>> Road and turn around at the Lakeshore Picnic Area then home. It totaled 
>> 56.62 miles! Eventually, I'll have to switch to kilometers.
>> 
>> "Pics or it didn't happen":
>> 
>> The turnaround at Cañada Road and Hwy 92 (uppermost part of Lower Crystal 
>> Springs reservoir)
>> 
>> The famous Pulgas Water Temple from the fence (it looks better up close)
>> 
>> The Woodside Store, a fine place to stop for a snack and refill the bottles. 
>> The glowing blue stuff is Gatorade. That's a very early (Duluth patch) 
>> "banana bag" in the back and a "candy bar bag" in the front.
>> Last snack stop at Lakeshore Picnic Area selfie. Yes, Oscar is a 
>> Retrogrouch! His trash can is STEEL, not plastic!
>> 
>> Drew
> 
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[RBW] Re: 56+ before 55!

[Drew Saunders]

Ray: I’m jealous, I don’t think I’ve ever seen a bald eagle!

Ryan: Sadly, the left Ritchey Logic crank snapped in 2012

Aaron: I’m sorry to hear about your father. Cancer is a real Oedipus! 
(Think Samuel L Jackson’s favorite word…)

Rich: I saw Jobst around Palo Alto from time to time, it’s hard not to 
notice a 6’7” guy on a bright yellow bike,  but never met him. I was once 
passed by Tom Ritchey while biking home. He’s fast!

Thanks again to everyone who replied! Maybe I’ll bike to the coast and back 
(about 57 miles and very hilly) next year!

Drew
On Tuesday, July 19, 2022 at 8:28:43 AM UTC-7 RichS wrote:

> Hello Drew,
>
> Thank you for telling your story. It's inspiring to read about your 
> positive attitude and resolve in overcoming your medical issues. Best 
> wishes for good health and many years of good rides on your beautiful red 
> Rivendell.
>
> Something else in your post jumped out at me and that is the locale for 
> your rides is the same area where Jobst Brandt and his pals regularly rode. 
> Really nice that you have access to those routes. I just read Ray Hosler's 
> book "Once Upon a Ride", an account of the "Jobst rides" rides from 1980 - 
> 2007. It's a fun read with lots of photographs and names you'll recognize 
> (Tom Ritchey and Peter Johnson are two). Hosler still lives in the Bay area 
> and continues to ride those roads. Check out his blog at 
> rayhosler.wordpress.com
>
> Stay well and keep the wheels turning!
>
> Best,
> Rich in ATL
>
> On Friday, July 15, 2022 at 9:41:05 PM UTC-4 Drew Saunders wrote:
>
>> For the past few years, I've tried to ride my age or more on or about my 
>> birthday (this Sunday, the 17th, a.k.a. "World Emoji Day!"). Although not 
>> as impressive as crossing the country, it was still a good ride today.
>>
>> In 2017, instead of riding 50+ miles for my 50th birthday, I spent my 
>> birthday in the hospital due to a bad reaction to Xeloda, my first 
>> chemotherapy drug. Oh, did I mention that in April of 2017 I found out that 
>> I had adenocarcinoma of the descending colon? I had the colectomy at the 
>> end of May, and started chemo at the end of June (and re-started it at the 
>> end of July with a different drug). That'll put a damper in your riding 
>> plans any day! 
>>
>> I was able to do a 53 mile ride before turning 51 in 2018, and a 55 mile 
>> ride before turning 52 in 2019. I found my fitness dropping unexpectedly in 
>> 2020, but eventually figured out that it was due to working from home and 
>> no longer walking or biking to work (which is only 2 miles each way, but it 
>> adds up). I added a neighborhood walk to my morning routine and improved my 
>> fitness, but wasn't able to get in a 53+ mile ride for 2020. Then, in 
>> November 2020 (Friday the 13th, of course) I found out that my cancer had 
>> returned in a single tumor in my liver. That (along with 1/4 of my liver) 
>> was removed at the end of December.
>>
>> 2021 was the year of regrowing my liver, so no long ride that July! I 
>> still got in some medium rides, but didn't make 54KM, much less 54 miles 
>> for any of them.
>>
>> I set out this morning to do a variation on the same 53 and 55 mile ride 
>> I had done in 2018 and 2019, just with a little more at each end. For the 
>> locals, this is Cañada road to the end, then meander through Woodside, 
>> Portola Valley and Los Altos Hills, then Foothill Expressway/Steven's 
>> Canyon Road and turn around at the Lakeshore Picnic Area then home. It 
>> totaled 56.62 miles! Eventually, I'll have to switch to kilometers.
>>
>> "Pics or it didn't happen":
>> [image: 2022-07-15_09-18-35_568.jpg]
>> The turnaround at Cañada Road and Hwy 92 (uppermost part of Lower Crystal 
>> Springs reservoir)
>> [image: 2022-07-15_09-27-30_001.jpg]
>> The famous Pulgas Water Temple from the fence (it looks better up close)
>> [image: 2022-07-15_09-54-51_607.jpg]
>> The Woodside Store, a fine place to stop for a snack and refill the 
>> bottles. The glowing blue stuff is Gatorade. That's a very early (Duluth 
>> patch) "banana bag" in the back and a "candy bar bag" in the front.[image: 
>> 2022-07-15_11-38-41_948.jpg]
>> Last snack stop at Lakeshore Picnic Area selfie. Yes, Oscar is a 
>> Retrogrouch! His trash can is STEEL, not plastic!
>>
>> Drew
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: 56+ before 55!

[Drew Saunders]

For more pics of the Red Riv, here are all of my Flickr photos with the tag 
"Rivendell" (I confirmed these are all public and don't require an account 
to 
view): 
https://www.flickr.com/search/?user_id=26797636%40N05&sort=date-taken-desc&text=rivendell&view_all=1

The jersey is from Pearl Izumi, from maybe 2008-2010? They had just stopped 
making Sesame Street jerseys, so some were available for cheap from the PI 
factory outlet, and I got one of the last in Medium. I also have matching 
socks, and Cookie Monster socks too!

Drew

On Saturday, July 16, 2022 at 9:22:33 AM UTC-7 Drew Saunders wrote:

> Thanks everyone!
>
> Leah: here’s my ancient web page on my 1996/2000 Rivendell: 
> https://web.stanford.edu/~dru/myriv.html
> I really need to update that with new photos and a parts list.
>
> Joel: I hope that I don’t have to retire my Riv for many years, but some 
> day it may have to become a wall decoration, presuming that my wife would 
> allow it!
>
> Drew
>
> On Saturday, July 16, 2022 at 7:19:40 AM UTC-7 Joel S wrote:
>
>>
>> Keep pushing.  I have a few years on you, 2 back surgeries, a replaced 
>> knee.  I had to take 10 years off after my second back surgery then covid 
>> came and I started riding again.  Of course I sold my custom, my AR and 1 
>> of my Bleriot by then.  I had 2 years of riding and had a mishap this year 
>> and have been off the bike for 2 months, my other knee, so rest and ice. 
>>  My mileage and speed have decreased but as I am approaching 71 I will be 
>> just fine with my 12-17 mile rides when I get back on the bike.  
>>
>> Sorry you’ve had to go through your medical issues, never easy.  Ride 
>> every day you can and take comfort as you roll down the road. A truly 
>> beautiful bike, I hope you enjoy it for many more years.  
>> On Friday, July 15, 2022 at 9:41:05 PM UTC-4 Drew Saunders wrote:
>>
>>> For the past few years, I've tried to ride my age or more on or about my 
>>> birthday (this Sunday, the 17th, a.k.a. "World Emoji Day!"). Although not 
>>> as impressive as crossing the country, it was still a good ride today.
>>>
>>> In 2017, instead of riding 50+ miles for my 50th birthday, I spent my 
>>> birthday in the hospital due to a bad reaction to Xeloda, my first 
>>> chemotherapy drug. Oh, did I mention that in April of 2017 I found out that 
>>> I had adenocarcinoma of the descending colon? I had the colectomy at the 
>>> end of May, and started chemo at the end of June (and re-started it at the 
>>> end of July with a different drug). That'll put a damper in your riding 
>>> plans any day! 
>>>
>>> I was able to do a 53 mile ride before turning 51 in 2018, and a 55 mile 
>>> ride before turning 52 in 2019. I found my fitness dropping unexpectedly in 
>>> 2020, but eventually figured out that it was due to working from home and 
>>> no longer walking or biking to work (which is only 2 miles each way, but it 
>>> adds up). I added a neighborhood walk to my morning routine and improved my 
>>> fitness, but wasn't able to get in a 53+ mile ride for 2020. Then, in 
>>> November 2020 (Friday the 13th, of course) I found out that my cancer had 
>>> returned in a single tumor in my liver. That (along with 1/4 of my liver) 
>>> was removed at the end of December.
>>>
>>> 2021 was the year of regrowing my liver, so no long ride that July! I 
>>> still got in some medium rides, but didn't make 54KM, much less 54 miles 
>>> for any of them.
>>>
>>> I set out this morning to do a variation on the same 53 and 55 mile ride 
>>> I had done in 2018 and 2019, just with a little more at each end. For the 
>>> locals, this is Cañada road to the end, then meander through Woodside, 
>>> Portola Valley and Los Altos Hills, then Foothill Expressway/Steven's 
>>> Canyon Road and turn around at the Lakeshore Picnic Area then home. It 
>>> totaled 56.62 miles! Eventually, I'll have to switch to kilometers.
>>>
>>> "Pics or it didn't happen":
>>> [image: 2022-07-15_09-18-35_568.jpg]
>>> The turnaround at Cañada Road and Hwy 92 (uppermost part of Lower 
>>> Crystal Springs reservoir)
>>> [image: 2022-07-15_09-27-30_001.jpg]
>>> The famous Pulgas Water Temple from the fence (it looks better up close)
>>> [image: 2022-07-15_09-54-51_607.jpg]
>>> The Woodside Store, a fine place to stop for a snack and refill the 
>>> bottles. The glowing blue stuff is Gatorade. That's a very early (Duluth 
>>> patch)

[RBW] Re: 56+ before 55!

[Drew Saunders]

Thanks everyone!

Leah: here’s my ancient web page on my 1996/2000 
Rivendell: https://web.stanford.edu/~dru/myriv.html
I really need to update that with new photos and a parts list.

Joel: I hope that I don’t have to retire my Riv for many years, but some 
day it may have to become a wall decoration, presuming that my wife would 
allow it!

Drew

On Saturday, July 16, 2022 at 7:19:40 AM UTC-7 Joel S wrote:

>
> Keep pushing.  I have a few years on you, 2 back surgeries, a replaced 
> knee.  I had to take 10 years off after my second back surgery then covid 
> came and I started riding again.  Of course I sold my custom, my AR and 1 
> of my Bleriot by then.  I had 2 years of riding and had a mishap this year 
> and have been off the bike for 2 months, my other knee, so rest and ice. 
>  My mileage and speed have decreased but as I am approaching 71 I will be 
> just fine with my 12-17 mile rides when I get back on the bike.  
>
> Sorry you’ve had to go through your medical issues, never easy.  Ride 
> every day you can and take comfort as you roll down the road. A truly 
> beautiful bike, I hope you enjoy it for many more years.  
> On Friday, July 15, 2022 at 9:41:05 PM UTC-4 Drew Saunders wrote:
>
>> For the past few years, I've tried to ride my age or more on or about my 
>> birthday (this Sunday, the 17th, a.k.a. "World Emoji Day!"). Although not 
>> as impressive as crossing the country, it was still a good ride today.
>>
>> In 2017, instead of riding 50+ miles for my 50th birthday, I spent my 
>> birthday in the hospital due to a bad reaction to Xeloda, my first 
>> chemotherapy drug. Oh, did I mention that in April of 2017 I found out that 
>> I had adenocarcinoma of the descending colon? I had the colectomy at the 
>> end of May, and started chemo at the end of June (and re-started it at the 
>> end of July with a different drug). That'll put a damper in your riding 
>> plans any day! 
>>
>> I was able to do a 53 mile ride before turning 51 in 2018, and a 55 mile 
>> ride before turning 52 in 2019. I found my fitness dropping unexpectedly in 
>> 2020, but eventually figured out that it was due to working from home and 
>> no longer walking or biking to work (which is only 2 miles each way, but it 
>> adds up). I added a neighborhood walk to my morning routine and improved my 
>> fitness, but wasn't able to get in a 53+ mile ride for 2020. Then, in 
>> November 2020 (Friday the 13th, of course) I found out that my cancer had 
>> returned in a single tumor in my liver. That (along with 1/4 of my liver) 
>> was removed at the end of December.
>>
>> 2021 was the year of regrowing my liver, so no long ride that July! I 
>> still got in some medium rides, but didn't make 54KM, much less 54 miles 
>> for any of them.
>>
>> I set out this morning to do a variation on the same 53 and 55 mile ride 
>> I had done in 2018 and 2019, just with a little more at each end. For the 
>> locals, this is Cañada road to the end, then meander through Woodside, 
>> Portola Valley and Los Altos Hills, then Foothill Expressway/Steven's 
>> Canyon Road and turn around at the Lakeshore Picnic Area then home. It 
>> totaled 56.62 miles! Eventually, I'll have to switch to kilometers.
>>
>> "Pics or it didn't happen":
>> [image: 2022-07-15_09-18-35_568.jpg]
>> The turnaround at Cañada Road and Hwy 92 (uppermost part of Lower Crystal 
>> Springs reservoir)
>> [image: 2022-07-15_09-27-30_001.jpg]
>> The famous Pulgas Water Temple from the fence (it looks better up close)
>> [image: 2022-07-15_09-54-51_607.jpg]
>> The Woodside Store, a fine place to stop for a snack and refill the 
>> bottles. The glowing blue stuff is Gatorade. That's a very early (Duluth 
>> patch) "banana bag" in the back and a "candy bar bag" in the front.[image: 
>> 2022-07-15_11-38-41_948.jpg]
>> Last snack stop at Lakeshore Picnic Area selfie. Yes, Oscar is a 
>> Retrogrouch! His trash can is STEEL, not plastic!
>>
>> Drew
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Jim 7 speed cassette on a triple

[Drew Saunders]

"A half step triple would work, like a 44/40/28 for example. The numbers 
are off the top of my head, not a suggestion. Having the half step would 
help split some of the large jumps in the cassette."

You guessed pretty well. The jumps in the 13-42 average about 18%, and a 
44-40 is about a 9% change, so that's a near perfect half step. A 28-42 is 
a pretty low gear, so if anyone really wanted to live through the glory 
years of half-step gearing again, the 13-42 would work. I don't know why 
anyone would want to shift so much if they didn't have to, but you could.

On Wednesday, May 4, 2022 at 5:00:26 PM UTC-7 Garth wrote:

> As long as you're within the total capacity of the RD it could work with 
> one of those Wolf Tooth derailleur hanger extensions, called a Roadlink I 
> think. Others make them, but Wolfies and Wheels Mfg I know for sure use a 
> stainless steel bolt, while the other use aluminum.  The Wolfie helps to 
> clear the largest cog only, it doesn't add any capacity, that's for the 
> RD.  A 13-42 , at 29 teeth, doesn't leave much room for a triple with much 
> spread. 45t is what most mtb RD are ? That leaves 16t spread for the rings. 
> I for one never use certain combos of course so these "formulas" are 
> theoretical, actual use, if you know what you're doing, can go beyond all 
> that. "Know what you're doing" ... meaning  not running say a 26t small 
> cog and the last 3 cogs, and likewise, not using the big ring in at least 
> the 2 largest cogs, it really depends on the crank chainline and how much 
> you heed or ignore the horrible sound of cross angling of the chain. 
>
> A half step triple would work, like a 44/40/28 for example. The numbers 
> are off the top of my head, not a suggestion. Having the half step would 
> help split some of the large jumps in the cassette. 
>
> On Wednesday, May 4, 2022 at 7:11:11 PM UTC-4 Sam Perez wrote:
>
>> Any one know if a 7 speed 42 would work with a long cage silver triple? 
>> Or is it only compatible with a wide double? 
>>
>> Thanks 
>> Samuel 
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Riv asks: One bike forever, which one?

[Drew Saunders]

Christine,

No, I hadn't heard of Nua Bikes before, but they look very nice! Time to 
buy a lottery ticket, I guess. I did a quick look at the Roure and Terra, 
those look nice, but $7000 and up nice! 

Drew

On Tuesday, April 12, 2022 at 6:40:31 AM UTC-7 ezre...@gmail.com wrote:

> Ooh Drew, your "one bike" sounds dreamy! Have you seen Nua Bikes? They 
> make bikes just as you describe. I've been lusting after one of those for 
> so long. They will even do a titanium fork if that's what you want. But 
> like you, waiting on the lottery before I can import one.
> Christine
>
> On Monday, April 11, 2022 at 2:15:28 PM UTC-4 Drew Saunders wrote:
>
>> I've been mulling over this question for a while, and I've come to the 
>> conclusion that I'm really happy that I don't have to have just one bike 
>> forever. 
>>
>> I currently have a 1998 Ibis Mojo as my "Mountain Bike" (but much more 
>> like modern "gravel" bikes in its setup, with original WTB Offroad Drop 
>> bars, unsuspended fork, and new RH 55-559 Humptulips Ridge knobbies that 
>> really go a lot faster on pavement than any previous knobby tire on that 
>> bike); a 1999 match-built Rivendell Road sort-of-custom as my "mostly 
>> paved" riding bike; and a 2005 orange Quickbeam as my commuter.
>>
>> I guess I got "serious" about riding when I received a Bianchi Volpe in 
>> 1989 as a college graduation/22nd birthday present. That'll be 33 years, 
>> so, assuming I can ride for 33 more years (to age 88!), I'd be about 
>> halfway through my "more than just riding to class" riding years. Of 
>> course, having had metastatic cancer, I realize that there's a good chance 
>> I won't make it to 88, but I can always hope.  With my 2nd surgery in late 
>> 2020, I get my "very likely cancer free" silver star sticker at the end of 
>> 2025, and "really very very likely cancer free" gold star sticker at the 
>> end of 2030.
>>
>> One bike would have to replace all 3. Honestly, even if I only had space 
>> for one full sized bike, I'd find space for a Brompton and use it for 
>> commuting, while keeping the full sized bike for "go far" (no longer "go 
>> fast") rides.
>>
>> Material: I've never had a titanium bike. I've broken a few steel frames, 
>> but I'm no longer over 100kg, so I doubt I'll break any more, but I'd go 
>> for brushed titanium. It's just pretty!
>>
>> Style: I'm OK with a sloping top tube, but I like a straight top tube. 
>> It's just a nice place to put my frame fit "adult sized" pump, plus there's 
>> room for two full sized water bottles. 
>>
>> Handlebar: All my bikes have drop bars, but the WTB's cause the most 
>> wrist and hand pain after a long ride, so either a less flared "off road" 
>> drop bar, or something different like a Jones H bar. I'd like to test the 
>> bar for a week or three first.
>>
>> Wheels/Tires: I'd build this bike around 48-584 Rene Herse Juniper Ridge 
>> or 55-584 Umtanum Ridge "fast knobbies." Front would absolutely have to 
>> have a dynamo hub. I've never had one, but might get a dynamo setup someday 
>> "soon."
>>
>> Gearing: This will cause some consternation: Pinion P-18 with Gates belt 
>> drive. I ride 28-622 tires on the Rivendell, 24-36-46 with an 11-23 
>> 9-speed. That's 113 gear inches for the highest gear and 103" for the 
>> 46x12. 103 gear inches or thereabouts is fine, I could live without my very 
>> highest gear. On the Ibis, it's 24-35-46 with 12-36 9-speed, and that works 
>> out to be a 17.5" bottom gear and 19.7" next-to-bottom gear. Do I 
>> absolutely have to have that whole range? No, that's why I have the two 
>> bikes, but the thought experiment is about one bike, and the P-18 would do 
>> that. Playing with http://www.gear-calculator.com (which is a fun toy!), 
>> there's no pull-down for 48-584, so picking 50-584, with the P-18 and a 32t 
>> chainring and 30t cog (the standard gearing for a Pinion is about 1:1, with 
>> 30/30 being a good starting point), that gives me a 101" top gear and 16" 
>> bottom gear. I'm not getting any younger, so a lower top and bottom gear 
>> seem reasonable. It seems that the Gates drive chainrings/sprockets are in 
>> even teeth only, so 32/30 it is (but 33/30 would be better, oh well).
>>
>> Pedals: This is where the "1 bike only" requirement is a

[RBW] Re: Riv asks: One bike forever, which one?

[Drew Saunders]

I've been mulling over this question for a while, and I've come to the 
conclusion that I'm really happy that I don't have to have just one bike 
forever. 

I currently have a 1998 Ibis Mojo as my "Mountain Bike" (but much more like 
modern "gravel" bikes in its setup, with original WTB Offroad Drop bars, 
unsuspended fork, and new RH 55-559 Humptulips Ridge knobbies that really 
go a lot faster on pavement than any previous knobby tire on that bike); a 
1999 match-built Rivendell Road sort-of-custom as my "mostly paved" riding 
bike; and a 2005 orange Quickbeam as my commuter.

I guess I got "serious" about riding when I received a Bianchi Volpe in 
1989 as a college graduation/22nd birthday present. That'll be 33 years, 
so, assuming I can ride for 33 more years (to age 88!), I'd be about 
halfway through my "more than just riding to class" riding years. Of 
course, having had metastatic cancer, I realize that there's a good chance 
I won't make it to 88, but I can always hope.  With my 2nd surgery in late 
2020, I get my "very likely cancer free" silver star sticker at the end of 
2025, and "really very very likely cancer free" gold star sticker at the 
end of 2030.

One bike would have to replace all 3. Honestly, even if I only had space 
for one full sized bike, I'd find space for a Brompton and use it for 
commuting, while keeping the full sized bike for "go far" (no longer "go 
fast") rides.

Material: I've never had a titanium bike. I've broken a few steel frames, 
but I'm no longer over 100kg, so I doubt I'll break any more, but I'd go 
for brushed titanium. It's just pretty!

Style: I'm OK with a sloping top tube, but I like a straight top tube. It's 
just a nice place to put my frame fit "adult sized" pump, plus there's room 
for two full sized water bottles. 

Handlebar: All my bikes have drop bars, but the WTB's cause the most wrist 
and hand pain after a long ride, so either a less flared "off road" drop 
bar, or something different like a Jones H bar. I'd like to test the bar 
for a week or three first.

Wheels/Tires: I'd build this bike around 48-584 Rene Herse Juniper Ridge or 
55-584 Umtanum Ridge "fast knobbies." Front would absolutely have to have a 
dynamo hub. I've never had one, but might get a dynamo setup someday "soon."

Gearing: This will cause some consternation: Pinion P-18 with Gates belt 
drive. I ride 28-622 tires on the Rivendell, 24-36-46 with an 11-23 
9-speed. That's 113 gear inches for the highest gear and 103" for the 
46x12. 103 gear inches or thereabouts is fine, I could live without my very 
highest gear. On the Ibis, it's 24-35-46 with 12-36 9-speed, and that works 
out to be a 17.5" bottom gear and 19.7" next-to-bottom gear. Do I 
absolutely have to have that whole range? No, that's why I have the two 
bikes, but the thought experiment is about one bike, and the P-18 would do 
that. Playing with http://www.gear-calculator.com (which is a fun toy!), 
there's no pull-down for 48-584, so picking 50-584, with the P-18 and a 32t 
chainring and 30t cog (the standard gearing for a Pinion is about 1:1, with 
30/30 being a good starting point), that gives me a 101" top gear and 16" 
bottom gear. I'm not getting any younger, so a lower top and bottom gear 
seem reasonable. It seems that the Gates drive chainrings/sprockets are in 
even teeth only, so 32/30 it is (but 33/30 would be better, oh well).

Pedals: This is where the "1 bike only" requirement is a problem. I love my 
Grip King pedals on the Quickbeam, but I also love Ritchey XC ("mountain 
bike" style or "walk like a normal human being when off the bike" style) 
step-in pedals on the Ibis and Rivendell. I guess I could get the Grip 
Monarch and appropriate shoes.

Racks and Bags: Yes, but the question wasn't about what racks/bags to have 
forever, so I may change those over time. 

Fenders: Probably, I like them on the Quickbeam, but tend to avoid riding 
in the rain on the "go far" Ibis or Rivendell.

Anyway, barring a lottery win, I doubt I'll be buying something like this 
any time soon, but it's been an interesting thought experiment.

Drew

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv asks: One bike forever, which one?

[Drew Saunders]

If you're looking for One Bike to Rule Them All, clearly it has to be the 
2004 Rivendell Sauron:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/nanodrive/

(Should have posted this last Friday...)

On Monday, April 4, 2022 at 8:45:09 AM UTC-7 vhans...@gmail.com wrote:

> Unfortunately, this was sold 20 years ago
>
> On Sun, Apr 3, 2022 at 5:49 PM Johnny Alien  wrote:
>
>> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/812079662293/
>>
>> On Sunday, April 3, 2022 at 11:59:34 AM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:
>>
>>> Honestly a smaller wheelbase Platy kind of describes the Cheviot. I 
>>> would bet that the Cheviot would be very close to a step through AHH.
>>>
>>> On Sunday, April 3, 2022 at 10:21:25 AM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I so understand. A HomerPlat would be just the thing for you. I wonder 
 if that would be descriptive enough to say to Grant on your order form! 
 There’s a one-year pause on custom orders for now, but you can still get 
 in 
 the queue. I know I’m a terrible influence. I really want everyone to have 
 the bike they truly want.. 

 L

 On Apr 2, 2022, at 8:23 PM, Roberta  wrote:

 My all time favorite Riv of the three I've owned is my A Homer Hilsen, 
 by a narrow margin. It’s nearly perfect in every way —fit,size,ride 
 quality—except for one thing:  It is not a step though frame.   


 As I’m getting tired of throwing my leg over the saddle and I’m now 
 commuting to work, I will choose the Platypus if I could only have one 
 bike. I love the ride of the Platy, but my only issue with it is that it 
 is 
 too long to put on city bus bike rack or Amtrak.   Like many others here, 
 I 
 dream of a custom which slightly improves on a favorite ride to make it 
 the 
 perfect ride. 

 Roberta
 City of Philadlelphia, PA

 On Saturday, April 2, 2022 at 9:22:50 AM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
 wrote:

> [image: 1154624B-CA95-4486-9D2B-97EF158D1790.jpeg][image: 
> 3F33C3A3-4976-4724-8514-59BFF118CA62.jpeg]
>
> If you follow Rivendell on Instagram, they asked their followers a fun 
> question yesterday: 
>
> You get one bike for the rest of your life - what frame material, and 
> what style - mixte or normal? 
>
> Attached is a screenshot of Grant’s quote and Betsy Streeter’s art. 
>
> What a question! The frame material and style is easy - I love a 
> Rivendell steel mixte, but only one? In the end, my #1 is my raspberry 
> Platypus, but I’d cry real tears if parted from my Clem L or my shopping 
> Platypus. Up until 2020 I was a one bike gal, but I am really savoring 
> having a trio of bikes set up for different enjoyments. I chose the 
> raspberry mixte as my One Bike Forever because it’s the most beautiful, 
> does whatever I want it to, and has heaps of sentimental value. 
>
> What would be your One Bike Forever? Do you have that bike or is it a 
> dream bike? Do you have a photo?
> Leah
>
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> -- 
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[RBW] Re: Spring Cleaning

[Drew Saunders]

Those are the Rene Herse 700x28 “Chinook Pass.” I had previously run Riv 
700x29 Roly-Poly. I think I could fit the RH 700x32, which I’ll try when 
these wear out. The RH tires seem to run a bit smaller than others of the 
same size (my Bontrager 26x2.3 were a lot wider than the RH “2.3”). These 
28mm tires seem about 2mm narrower than the RP 29mm tires.

Drew
On Saturday, March 5, 2022 at 2:00:51 PM UTC-8 Marty Gierke, Stewartstown 
PA wrote:

> Time well spent Drew.! Love me a red Riv! What tires are you running on 
> the Riv? I need a pair that looks like that to complete a Miyata 912 
> project. 
>
> Marty
>
> On Saturday, March 5, 2022 at 4:46:49 PM UTC-5 Drew Saunders wrote:
>
>> I guess the photo browser does them alphabetically, OK. I cleaned the Riv 
>> first, then the Ibis. The goal was to get the new RH Humptulips Ridge tires 
>> on the Ibis (which, when I bought it in 1999, was a Mountain Bike, but 
>> apparently has become a "Gravel Grinder" in the intervening decades...)
>>
>> Both got clean chains and cleaner drivetrains and a good wipe down. I 
>> kinda agree with Alice B. Toeclips that a Mountain Bike shouldn't be 
>> squeaky clean, but the Riv certainly looks nice after a good cleaning.
>>
>> The "0.5x" setting on the iPhone sure does distort, but my back "yard" 
>> isn't all that roomy, so we get weird super wide distortion.
>>
>> I'll ride my "Gravel" bike next weekend, but at least around the driveway 
>> the new tires felt good.
>> [image: Mojo-nice-and-clean.jpg][image: Riv-Nice-and-clean.jpg]
>> I bought the bells on the Ibis at a Pow Wow many years ago. They're used, 
>> in pairs, for the Jingle Dance, but do a nice job of letting other trail 
>> users know that I'm approaching, without having to yell or ring the other 
>> bell. People seem to like the sound.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Long shot: Book about wool sold by Rivendell?

[Drew Saunders]

The Wool Glossary by Robert D. Sadler, copyright 1995. Can’t find an ISBN 
on my copy.

Drew
On Sunday, January 16, 2022 at 3:23:04 PM UTC-8 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> In my disorienting time in front of the scanner archiving Rivendell 
> catalogs I recall encountering a book about wool recommended by Grant. It 
> was about types of wool, sheep and farming. I think. 
>
> Does anyone remember what this book is called?
>
> Thanks!
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Many bike parts (google doc)

[Drew Saunders]

It’s been a couple weeks, so I suppose this post is due for a bump. About 
half the items sold, but there are still quite a few Items left.

It might be more efficient to email me directly with the item(s) you want 
in the subject line.

Thanks,

Drew
On Sunday, November 28, 2021 at 1:43:15 PM UTC-8 Drew Saunders wrote:

> It's time to clear out my old bike parts "for another build...some day." 
> Most are from the 1990's and early 2000's. Wheels (including one Wheelsmith 
> built) and hubs, cranks and chainrings, cassettes, freewheels and fixed 
> cogs, pedals, derailleurs, shifters, stems, handlebars, books and even a 
> "Rivendell Riders" Brooks saddle!
>
> Here's the Google doc:
>
>
> https://docs.google.com/document/d/1IIh2YvmNtzTB-o3Y45TyOumg6qYnxTqgLO0zzHgH_9k/edit?usp=sharing
>
> Weights are listed to help you estimate shipping. I have an account with 
> pirateship.com, who offer good rates on USPS and UPS. Local pick up in 
> Palo Alto, California is an option, and I'd encourage it for the wheels and 
> handlebars, for which I don't have large enough boxes handy (but I could 
> find them).
>
> Please reply directly to me (drew.s...@gmail.com) with the items you're 
> interested in. Once I get an email, I'll mark the item as "pending" and 
> reply with whether or not the item(s) are available and if you want them 
> shipped, an estimate on the shipping cost. If you agree, I'll box and 
> re-weigh and send you the total cost including shipping. Once payment is 
> done, the item will be marked as "Sold." 
>
> I could re-photograph anything if you want more details on a specific part.
>
> As the list is extensive, I won't reply to this post until everything is 
> gone, or nearly so, so as to avoid spamming the group.
>
> Happy Shopping and Riding!
>
> Drew
>
> P.S. Some of you have bought from this doc before as you placed WTB 
> requests that matched items I had while I was still working on the doc. 
> Since then, I added the books and two Brooks saddles.
>

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[RBW] FS: Many bike parts (google doc)

[Drew Saunders]

It's time to clear out my old bike parts "for another build...some day." 
Most are from the 1990's and early 2000's. Wheels (including one Wheelsmith 
built) and hubs, cranks and chainrings, cassettes, freewheels and fixed 
cogs, pedals, derailleurs, shifters, stems, handlebars, books and even a 
"Rivendell Riders" Brooks saddle!

Here's the Google doc:

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1IIh2YvmNtzTB-o3Y45TyOumg6qYnxTqgLO0zzHgH_9k/edit?usp=sharing

Weights are listed to help you estimate shipping. I have an account with 
pirateship.com, who offer good rates on USPS and UPS. Local pick up in Palo 
Alto, California is an option, and I'd encourage it for the wheels and 
handlebars, for which I don't have large enough boxes handy (but I could 
find them).

Please reply directly to me (drew.saund...@gmail.com) with the items you're 
interested in. Once I get an email, I'll mark the item as "pending" and 
reply with whether or not the item(s) are available and if you want them 
shipped, an estimate on the shipping cost. If you agree, I'll box and 
re-weigh and send you the total cost including shipping. Once payment is 
done, the item will be marked as "Sold." 

I could re-photograph anything if you want more details on a specific part.

As the list is extensive, I won't reply to this post until everything is 
gone, or nearly so, so as to avoid spamming the group.

Happy Shopping and Riding!

Drew

P.S. Some of you have bought from this doc before as you placed WTB 
requests that matched items I had while I was still working on the doc. 
Since then, I added the books and two Brooks saddles.

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[RBW] Re: Any former paper boys (or girls) on this list?

[Drew Saunders]

Hartford Courant from 1979 to about 1984 or so. Didn't deliver on a bike, 
but my Dad fashioned a 2-wheeled cart that my dog would pull to carry the 
papers. He became quite the celebrity within that neighborhood, and often 
got better holiday tips than I did. If the temp was below 0 F, I could ask 
my Dad to drive me, and he drove us (my brothers were also paper boys, and 
I inherited this route from one of them) on Sundays when the papers were 
huge. 

My dog was a half Basenji half Beagle, and quite strong for a small-ish 
medium sized dog. In the '70's, Basenji's were larger than they've been 
bred to be now, they seem to be on their way to becoming toy dogs (aren't 
they all?). Basenjis are "primitive" dogs (sometimes called "Pariah Dogs" 
or basal breeds) and are known for not barking, as well as being almost 
cat-like in many ways. Beagles are known for not shutting up when they want 
to bark. Rex would try to bark, but end up in a yodel/howl that probably 
really freaked out the neighbors. He loved pulling the cart, and got rather 
pudgy after I quit the paper route and he retired. I can neither confirm 
nor deny any car dents from him allegedly bashing the cart into parked cars 
while he may or may not have been pulling the cart off leash...

I made enough from that job to pay for my own school-associated trip to 
France the summer after I graduated high school, so yay!

Drew

On Tuesday, September 7, 2021 at 8:26:02 AM UTC-7 Matt Beecher wrote:

> I would not classify myself as having been a paper boy, but I would cover 
> for my friend when he was ill/traveling. It was a terrible job, compared to 
> mowing lawns/shoveling snow, where I made far more money and did not have 
> to get up super early or working in cold rain.  I remember that I had to 
> get there early, to bundle be papers into those plastic sleeves, or they 
> could get soaked.  It was an awful system.  
>
> Best regards,
> Matt in Peoria, IL at that time. 
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Beginners SLR camera?

[Drew Saunders]

That's catlabs.info, not .com, and here are their 35mm 
cameras: https://www.catlabs.info/category/35mm-cameras-and-lenses

On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 8:41:09 AM UTC-7 Drew Saunders wrote:

> One advantage of keh.com or catlabs.com or other real photo dealers vs. 
> individual sellers on Amazon or Ebay is that there's a good chance that the 
> camera has been checked out and confirmed to be working. With most of the 
> suggested cameras, there's a very high chance that the foam seals around 
> the film door are shot, which would cause light leaks. I got a good deal on 
> a Canon A-1 recently on Ebay, but the foam seals were definitely shot (used 
> up a roll of film to test that), so I found a replacement seal set (also on 
> ebay) and did the replacement myself, now the camera is good and light 
> tight and will be good for a decade or two. If all of that sounds daunting, 
> then go with a better seller and make sure they've tested and confirmed 
> that the foam seals are good, and will give a full refund if they're not.
>
> Drew (who lost count of the number of film cameras I own somewhere around 
> a dozen, 3 of which I know to be good (two of those I use) and 2 or 3 
> others probably work)
>
> On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 8:18:20 AM UTC-7 Benjamin Kelley wrote:
>
>> I've been buying lots of stuff from CatLABS in Jamaica Plain, MA.
>> Omer does a great job of testing and inspecting each item he sells, and 
>> the prices often beat eBay.
>> If you're in the market for film gear, I can highly recommend them.
>> https://www.catlabs.info/category/35mm-cameras-and-lenses
>>
>> Also yes, the OM-1, AE-1, and K1000 all have built in light meters, but 
>> if you are buying used, you'll need to know that they actually 
>> work.(Another plug for CatLABS is that Omer tests all gear before selling 
>> and clearly states any defects or features that do not work consistently.)
>> Circuity degrades.  My mention of the light meter on my K1000 being off 
>> by several stops,  It worked but had degraded in one of the resistors.  So 
>> with some testing I came up with a cart of where I needed to set the ISO 
>> settings in comparison to the actual film, to get the meter to work 
>> correctly.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, May 21, 2021 at 10:04 AM 'Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch <
>> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Patrick:
>>>
>>> That’s a little high for a T50. I recently bought one with a Canon 28mm 
>>> lens for $30 + shipping. Works great. These cameras are very common, so 
>>> check around for a better price.
>>>
>>> If your daughter just wants to go out and shoot pictures, this is a 
>>> great choice. Exposure is fully automatic (there’s a built-in exposure 
>>> system, so no external meter needed), and it advances the film 
>>> automatically. She’ll just need to compose the shot and focus. It’s very 
>>> simple to use, but Canon lenses are quite nice and will produce crisp 
>>> images.
>>>
>>> The T50 is also a bit lighter than many other SLRs.
>>>
>>> As others have pointed out, there are many choices out there. Let me 
>>> know if you need any help.
>>>
>>> --Eric Norris
>>> campyo...@me.com
>>> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
>>> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy  
>>>
>>> On May 21, 2021, at 7:24 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>>
>>> Thanks, Eric. I see this body with the lense on Amazon for $78: 
>>> https://www.amazon.com/Canon-T50-Camera-35mm-50MM/dp/B00VHCSE08
>>>
>>> I am as ignorant of cameras as my daughter is of AM hubs. What do others 
>>> think of this as a motivated beginner's camera?
>>>
>>> Will I have to buy a light meter separately?
>>>
>>> On Thu, May 20, 2021 at 12:22 PM 'Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch <
>>> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Patrick:
>>>>
>>>> Excellent option is the Canon T50. Simple, cheap SLR (you can find them 
>>>> with a Canon lens for less than $50 on eBay) that uses the common Canon FD 
>>>> lens mount.
>>>>
>>>> Manual focus with automatic exposure only, so if she wants to learn 
>>>> about exposure it’s not the right camera. 
>>>>
>>>> If she wants a camera that lets the user set shutter speed and 
>>>> aperture, try the Minolta SRT 101. They’re going for about $60-80 on eBay 
>>>> with a 50mm Minolta lens. It takes lenses with the 

Re: [RBW] Beginners SLR camera?

[Drew Saunders]

One advantage of keh.com or catlabs.com or other real photo dealers vs. 
individual sellers on Amazon or Ebay is that there's a good chance that the 
camera has been checked out and confirmed to be working. With most of the 
suggested cameras, there's a very high chance that the foam seals around 
the film door are shot, which would cause light leaks. I got a good deal on 
a Canon A-1 recently on Ebay, but the foam seals were definitely shot (used 
up a roll of film to test that), so I found a replacement seal set (also on 
ebay) and did the replacement myself, now the camera is good and light 
tight and will be good for a decade or two. If all of that sounds daunting, 
then go with a better seller and make sure they've tested and confirmed 
that the foam seals are good, and will give a full refund if they're not.

Drew (who lost count of the number of film cameras I own somewhere around a 
dozen, 3 of which I know to be good (two of those I use) and 2 or 3 others 
probably work)

On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 8:18:20 AM UTC-7 Benjamin Kelley wrote:

> I've been buying lots of stuff from CatLABS in Jamaica Plain, MA.
> Omer does a great job of testing and inspecting each item he sells, and 
> the prices often beat eBay.
> If you're in the market for film gear, I can highly recommend them.
> https://www.catlabs.info/category/35mm-cameras-and-lenses
>
> Also yes, the OM-1, AE-1, and K1000 all have built in light meters, but if 
> you are buying used, you'll need to know that they actually work.(Another 
> plug for CatLABS is that Omer tests all gear before selling and clearly 
> states any defects or features that do not work consistently.)
> Circuity degrades.  My mention of the light meter on my K1000 being off by 
> several stops,  It worked but had degraded in one of the resistors.  So 
> with some testing I came up with a cart of where I needed to set the ISO 
> settings in comparison to the actual film, to get the meter to work 
> correctly.
>
>
>
> On Fri, May 21, 2021 at 10:04 AM 'Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch <
> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>
>> Patrick:
>>
>> That’s a little high for a T50. I recently bought one with a Canon 28mm 
>> lens for $30 + shipping. Works great. These cameras are very common, so 
>> check around for a better price.
>>
>> If your daughter just wants to go out and shoot pictures, this is a great 
>> choice. Exposure is fully automatic (there’s a built-in exposure system, so 
>> no external meter needed), and it advances the film automatically. She’ll 
>> just need to compose the shot and focus. It’s very simple to use, but Canon 
>> lenses are quite nice and will produce crisp images.
>>
>> The T50 is also a bit lighter than many other SLRs.
>>
>> As others have pointed out, there are many choices out there. Let me know 
>> if you need any help.
>>
>> --Eric Norris
>> campyo...@me.com
>> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
>> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy  
>>
>> On May 21, 2021, at 7:24 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>
>> Thanks, Eric. I see this body with the lense on Amazon for $78: 
>> https://www.amazon.com/Canon-T50-Camera-35mm-50MM/dp/B00VHCSE08
>>
>> I am as ignorant of cameras as my daughter is of AM hubs. What do others 
>> think of this as a motivated beginner's camera?
>>
>> Will I have to buy a light meter separately?
>>
>> On Thu, May 20, 2021 at 12:22 PM 'Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch <
>> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Patrick:
>>>
>>> Excellent option is the Canon T50. Simple, cheap SLR (you can find them 
>>> with a Canon lens for less than $50 on eBay) that uses the common Canon FD 
>>> lens mount.
>>>
>>> Manual focus with automatic exposure only, so if she wants to learn 
>>> about exposure it’s not the right camera. 
>>>
>>> If she wants a camera that lets the user set shutter speed and aperture, 
>>> try the Minolta SRT 101. They’re going for about $60-80 on eBay with a 50mm 
>>> Minolta lens. It takes lenses with the Minolta SR mount, which means that, 
>>> like the Canon, there are a bunch of nice used lenses out there.
>>>
>>> Hope this helps! Film is fun!
>>>
>>> --Eric N
>>>
>>> > On May 20, 2021, at 11:11 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>> > 
>>> > My daughter has come to like film photography during her first
>>> > attempts using a high quality borrowed manual SLR.
>>> > 
>>> > I'd like to get her an SLR, preferably manual, preferably with a
>>> > flash, of decent quality but not too expensive; and I have no idea
>>> > what "expensive" means here.
>>> > 
>>> > She would also be happy with a point and shoot, but I think that if
>>> > affordable that a minimally decent manual with flash would be more
>>> > satisfying.
>>> > 
>>> > I know many of you are photographers; what would you recommend, and
>>> > why? Manual or automatic?
>>> > 
>>> > I might be in the market for a decent used camera for her 20th 
>>> birthday.
>>> > 
>>> > My posted photographs are really bad, I know that, and this despite
>>> > some care. She might be able to 

Re: [RBW] Re: COVID face mask that lets you breathe and doesn't cause glasses to fog?

[Drew Saunders]

Regarding the O2 levels, in this video: https://youtu.be/npXP5wqNzaI
He wears 6 masks and wears a pulse-ox meter. The results of wearing 6 
(count 'em, 6!) surgical masks for 5 minutes:

1: No change in O2 levels
2: His ears really hurt.

I'm about to get surgery (not voluntary, not in a pandemic!), where 
everyone will wear the same masks they wear for all the surgeries they've 
ever done before, that never caused any oxygen problems.

On Monday, November 23, 2020 at 8:10:10 PM UTC-8 Robert Tilley wrote:

> I just saw a news report that had a study showing that masks don’t have 
> any effect on your oxygen levels. That say they feel like they do but the 
> numbers show you are still getting the same oxygen moving around your body 
> as you would without a mask. 
>
> I have a hard time wearing a mask while riding so I wear one pulled down 
> and “deploy” it when the need arises. My mask of choice is the Wald mask 
> since they fit ok and have some nice bikey patterns.
>
> Robert Tilley
> San Diego, CA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 23, 2020, at 7:52 PM, Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA <
> benzo...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The thing with masks is that if they're not a bit constrictive, they 
> probably don't work (except for face shields, but who wants to look like a 
> welder with a transparent shield?). That's the nature of filters. Having 
> said that, there's constrictive, and there's *constrictive*. I should say 
> that none are constrictive to the extent claimed by anti-maskers.
>
>
> I find the least constrictive is one that has the largest surface area and 
> that also does the job. Duh! But *how* do you know if it does the job? 
> Given that masks are at least half a prophylactic against transmission to 
> *others*, an easy way of determining efficacy, without specialized tools, 
> is to try blowing out candles that are within a few inches of your face, 
> with the mask on. If you can blow out said candle, the mask isn't effective 
> enough. Stay away from the N95 masks with one-way valves; sure, they're 
> nice for you, but they do not mitigate the dispersion of droplets to others 
> as you exhale.
>
> Anyway, I find buffs, wool ones, double-layer-up, and merely lightly snug 
> around the mouth+nose instead of tight, to be efficacious and least 
> constrictive. In fact, I use that when cycling in cold weather. With the 
> proper eyewear, I don't experience fogging issues when on the move. In 
> addition, you may also want to look into anti-fog treatments, especially as 
> eyewear will fog up even without masks when one suddenly stops, in between 
> exertions.
>
> On Monday, November 23, 2020 at 2:10:42 PM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Can anyone suggest one, preferably one that is easy on/off, or at least 
>> easy to slip down when solitary and up when in public? I've been using 
>> basic cloth masks and (1) they're suffocating under any exertion, (2) they 
>> fog my shades, (3) the ear loops detach easily from your ears, so slipping 
>> them down often pulls them off.
>>
>> I am quite prepared to learn that the entire official protocol for 
>> infection avoidance is bunkum, and I am heartily disposed to believe that 
>> my political leaders are both inept and corrupt, or at least driven 
>> principally by self interest, but the situation is serious enough that I am 
>> willing to give them the benefit of the doubt and wear masks around others, 
>> especially since some others seem panicky if you don't.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
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[RBW] Re: Talk Me Out of Building My Own Wheels

[Drew Saunders]

Many years ago, I decided to try my hand at building my own wheels. Armed 
with a copy of Jobst Brandt's "The Bicycle Wheel," rims and spokes from 
Wheelsmith, I did manage to make a build a pair of wheels. The front was OK 
(until I crashed and bent it beyond repair), the rear wasn't a very usable 
wheel. I learned two things from my experience:

1: I will happily pay a professional to build my wheels. 

2: How to better true and maintain my wheels, which has been invaluable 
knowledge.

When I picked up a pair of clearance wheels from Supergo, armed with my 
knowledge of how incomplete machine-build wheels are, I followed the final 
tensioning (heavy gloves, lots of squeezing and flattening etc.) and truing 
instructions from Jobst's book and turned cheap off-the-rack wheels into 
quite good ones. They lasted for many years until a spoke pulled through 
the rear rim, and the front would still be going strong if I hadn't bought 
a Velocity-built pair from Riv to replace them. 

Go for it, at the very least, you'll have a better appreciation for what 
goes into building wheels, whether they're well built or poorly built.

Drew

On Monday, October 19, 2020 at 8:25:58 AM UTC-7 Steven Seelig wrote:

> So with COVID and all, I've decided that now is the time to do stuff that 
> I haven't ever done before.  Learning to speak French is perhaps a bridge 
> too far - not so good at language.  But it seems reasonable to think that I 
> can at least build a front wheel with a Dyno hub to put on the Sam I ride 
> in the means streets of DC and on some gravel.  
>
> I have a truing stand but not a dishing tool.  I would say I am a 
> competent wrencher.  Of course anyone who has built up a wheel did it once 
> for the first time.  Is this something I should take on?  What are the odds 
> for success?  Will I quit in frustration?
>
> Points of view encouraged.
>

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[RBW] Re: 2020 miles in 2020

[Drew Saunders]

Leah,

Brava! I also planned on riding 2020 miles in 2020 but then, well, 2020 
happened.

Strava says 149 miles in January, 153 miles in February and...18 miles in 
March. Hmm, what happened then?

April was my best month with 204 miles, but (and it took several months for 
me to figure this out), I started losing fitness as the year went on. You 
see, I normally walk or bike the 2 miles each way to work, and changing to 
work-from-home 4 days out of the week removed a significant part of my 
weekly exercise. I don't track commute miles on Strava, so those wouldn't 
have counted towards 2020 anyway. I started walking a 1.5 mile loop in the 
neighborhood to "walk to work" on days I work from home, and it's helping.

1264 miles so far, not terrible, not great. 2021 miles for 2021 seems 
possible.

Enjoy the Platypus! Everyone needs a fun red bike in their life at some 
point (mine is my 1999 match-built Rivendell)

Drew

On Sunday, October 11, 2020 at 1:01:39 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

> At the beginning of 2020 (back when we were so naive and hopeful) I set an 
> ambitious goal for myself: 2,020 miles in 2020. This may seem small to some 
> of you, but I live out in suburbia, surrounded by punishing 
> hills/mountains, and there are few places to go out here. Most trips 
> require a car. The one bike commute that gave me 4 miles/day was to the 
> boys’ school, but by March, that was gone - replaced by virtual school. 
>
> Having everyone at home all the time was a blessing and a challenge. I 
> started going out in the evenings, looking for places to go by bike to 
> clear my mind and wear out my body. I rode down the mountain and began 
> exploring the development there. They had thoughtfully put in bike lanes 
> and a blacktop bike path, and I discovered that I could make a 10.1 mile 
> loop, start to finish. The thing was, I only had my stock Clementine - the 
> 2019, super-long model, set up to be a school commuter. Beautiful and 
> capable, but heavy. I ordered a new wheelset and dyno lighting from Analog, 
> and that really changed the game for me. Lightened up (in weight and 
> lumens!), I could venture further from home, regardless of elevation or 
> sunlight. I began to rack up miles. 
>
> I pedaled through a global pandemic. I pedaled through triple digit heat. 
> I pedaled through the entire Hamilton soundtrack, memorizing it. I pedaled 
> through wildfire smoke and record-breaking temps. I pedaled through rain. 
> And wind. When a pulmonary embolism robbed me of my young, handsome, 
> healthy dad in July, I pedaled (sometimes sobbing) through that, too. I 
> pedaled in Minnesota humidity with my basket full of stuffed animals, my 
> tiny niece shadowing me on her little bike. I pedaled through springtime, 
> when entire trees exploded in blooms, and I will pedal through fall when 
> the leaves are a riot of color. On October 9th, I hit my mileage goal. 
>
> 2,020 miles in 2020. 
>
> I’m going to keep pedaling, but I may finish out the year on a raspberry 
> Platypus, depending on when the wheelset gets here. Until then, I’ll keep 
> using this Clem, stout and dressed as a commuter, as an exercise bike. 
> Don’t let anyone tell you you can’t - you can, and you’ll have muscles, to 
> boot.
>
> Leah
>
>
>

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[RBW] FS: 56cm Toyo Atlantis

[Drew Saunders]

I see that it’s sold, but regarding your question about shipping, I got a quote 
from UPS and another from bikeflights.com to send my XO-1 to its new home, and 
bike flights was half the price, and they ship UPS! About $135 depending on the 
amount of insurance you’d want.

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[RBW] Re: FS: 52cm 1993 Bridgestone XO-1

[Drew Saunders]

Sold! Thanks for looking. My huge list of parts will be listed soon.

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[RBW] Re: FS: 52cm 1993 Bridgestone XO-1

[Drew Saunders]

Sale pending!

On Saturday, July 11, 2020 at 12:47:58 PM UTC-7, Drew Saunders wrote:
>
> Excellent question.
>
> Back in '95 or '96 I was riding off road at Los Trancos OSP and at the 
> crossing of a dry creek the front wheel apparently perfectly matched the 
> creek bed. The wheel stopped rolling, and momentum kept me going. The force 
> of the crash bent the original Moustache bars on the right side, but I 
> couldn't detect any cracks in the frame or fork. I replaced the bars with 
> heat treated ones and eventually bought new wheels, and rode the bike for 
> several years after that, without any obvious signs of frame or fork 
> damage, but I don't have the ability to do an ultrasound or other deep 
> analysis of the frame or fork. I wanted to make sure that's clear so people 
> don't expect a very gently used bike.
>
> Late in the production run, the original forks were recalled. This bike 
> has the later, post-recall fork.
>
> I'll add all of that to the google doc.
>
> Drew
>
> On Saturday, July 11, 2020 at 12:36:59 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>> "I crashed it once" might be a problem for potential buyers. Perhaps you 
>> can explain so people know what the frame went through. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 52cm 1993 Bridgestone XO-1

[Drew Saunders]

Excellent question.

Back in '95 or '96 I was riding off road at Los Trancos OSP and at the 
crossing of a dry creek the front wheel apparently perfectly matched the 
creek bed. The wheel stopped rolling, and momentum kept me going. The force 
of the crash bent the original Moustache bars on the right side, but I 
couldn't detect any cracks in the frame or fork. I replaced the bars with 
heat treated ones and eventually bought new wheels, and rode the bike for 
several years after that, without any obvious signs of frame or fork 
damage, but I don't have the ability to do an ultrasound or other deep 
analysis of the frame or fork. I wanted to make sure that's clear so people 
don't expect a very gently used bike.

Late in the production run, the original forks were recalled. This bike has 
the later, post-recall fork.

I'll add all of that to the google doc.

Drew

On Saturday, July 11, 2020 at 12:36:59 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> "I crashed it once" might be a problem for potential buyers. Perhaps you 
> can explain so people know what the frame went through. 

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[RBW] FS: 52cm 1993 Bridgestone XO-1

[Drew Saunders]

Is the lack of a BB/Cranks/Chain scaring people away? I could install:

Shimano UN51 122.5mm BB (ugly, but still smooth)
Sugino GP 110 26/38/50 170mm cranks (original cranks, not original rings)
Whatever 8 speed chain my LBS carries
Replace the FD with an XTR
Replace the RD with an Ultegra RD 6500
Swap the 12-21 with a 12-25 if requested.
Sylvan pedals. (Really beat up, missing a dust cap!)

I’d have to bump the price to $1200 if I did all that work, but if someone 
wants it rideable, and isn’t mechanically inclined, I could get it running. 
Honestly, it’s a better deal if you or your LBS does the work.

If “local pick up” is keeping you from buying, I could get a quote from Palo 
Alto Bicycles to have them pack and ship. I doubt it would be less than $150.

Thanks for looking!

Drew (drew.saund...@gmail.com)

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[RBW] FS: 52cm 1993 Bridgestone XO-1

[Drew Saunders]

I bought this new at the 1994 Bridgestone/BOB fire sale, and haven't really 
ridden it in about 15 years, so it's time for someone else to enjoy it.

Photos and details 
at 
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1tPdNV1WoLh4rE4L7bCpzNd2P-dmfRARaqOOSNLvESr4/edit?usp=sharing

Please read very carefully!

The few 1993 XO-1s that have sold recently, while complete and largely 
original, have gone for $1500

This is not a complete bike (I have cranks to sell too), there are some 
rust spots, and I crashed it once, but it does have several upgrades 
(Wheelsmith hand built gold label wheels, Chris King Headset, see the 
google doc!), so I'm looking to get:

*$900*

I'm really only interested in selling it to someone who can pick it up 
locally in Palo Alto, California. Cash preferred. 

[image: Fuji-X-E3-DSCF6590-20200704.jpg]

Lots more photos on the google doc. Please read carefully (disable "Print 
Layout" unless you want to scroll for days) before asking any questions.

Thanks,

Drew

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[RBW] Re: Help Pimp My Quickbeam

[Drew Saunders]

>
>
>
>- What would the original Sugino crankset gearing look like? What 
>would Grant's preferred set up be?
>- What about rear cog(s)? 16t, 17t? 
>
>
> My orange QB came with 32-40-chainguard on the Sugino cranks, and that's 
what's still on there. The chain guard is quite nice.
 
It came with an 18t freewheel, which I immediately replaced with a Dos-Eno 
17-19. I added a 22 on the flop side of the flip-flop wheels that are 
original. The combinations that actually work with the long slanting 
dropouts are 40x17 (which I use almost exclusively), 40x19 (easy to change 
into), 32x19 (I've gone up some real hills with this, years ago) and 32x22. 
I call it the world's least convenient 4-speed. If you want to keep your 
Campy and stick to an ~8t difference, I suppose you could use a 39-47 or 
39-46.

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[RBW] Re: Crash Stories

[Drew Saunders]

My best "almost-crash" story:

When I was an undergrad at Stanford, back when dinosaurs roamed the earth 
and we did all our assignments on clay tablets (late '80's), I was biking 
to class one day and had an epic almost crash. For context, Stanford is a 
large campus, so there are a LOT of cyclists, most of whom have no clue how 
to ride with any sense of self preservation. I'm staff there now, and the 
kids are just as oblivious to the laws of physics and as utterly lacking in 
common sense as I was. 

Full of my lack of sense, I was biking no handed, and wanted to turn right, 
but the bike just in front of me, and to my right, didn't, so we bumped a 
bit. I grabbed my handlebars, we both maintained control, but we 
essentially split the difference and went a bit to the right, where there 
were four pedestrians walking towards us. They saw what we were doing and 
instantly split into two pairs to let us get through them, which we did, 
safely. One of the pedestrians crossed himself when he saw the almost-epic 
crash that didn't happen. Acting under the idea of "nobody hit the ground, 
so it wasn't really a crash," we both biked along our merry ways.

I've had a few real crashes. As a former "gentleman of substance" (max 
weight 125kg, height 176cm), I have had several frames and parts break. I 
was riding my Riv in 2012 when my left crank snapped, dumping me on the 
ground. A professional dog walker in his truck came by shortly after and 
offered to drive me home. The dogs were very happy to see someone, and 
thought my bike smelled great! I forgot to turn off Strava, not surprising 
since I was probably somewhat concussed, so it thinks I was able to ride my 
bike at some pretty impressive speeds! I am forever grateful to that kind 
stranger who got me home safely!

--Drew

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[RBW] Re: How & when & why did you find Rivendell? What was your first bike or part from them?

[Drew Saunders]

On Wednesday, January 8, 2020 at 9:52:28 AM UTC-8, Pancake wrote:
>
> Leah's discussion about long wheel base led to a lot of interesting 
> discussions about how people found Rivendell. I'd like to know:
>
>- How you first found out about Rivendell?
>- What caused you to actually get your first Rivendell frame or 
>component (or something Riv inspired) ... and what was that first buy?
>- And could you add a photo of that first?
>
> Y'all may want to get a refreshing beverage before reading this:

It started in 1991 when I bought a Bridgestone RB-1 from Wheelsmith in Palo 
Alto (the original Hamilton Ave location). I got into "serious" biking when 
I received a 1989 Bianchi Volpe as a college graduation present from my 
parents, and wanted a "faster" racing-style bike, but one that I knew I 
might never race on. I was intrigued by the mix of practical components: 
Sugino cranks, Ultegra derailleurs, Dia Compe brakes, and Ishiwata steel 
frame. That RB-1 is still the one and only time I've intentionally gone 
into credit card debt, as it took me two payment cycles to pay for it. 
Eventually, the bottom bracket lug cracked, so I gave it to someone to take 
apart and learn frame building.

I picked up the '92 and later Bridgestone catalogs and somewhere learned 
about BOB, and joined early enough to be member #717. At some point, iBOB 
was created (a mailing list, I think?) and I joined. I was a fairly active 
reader and occasional contributor to some rec.bicycles.* usenet newsgroups 
and ba.cycles. I think it was from a usenet newsgroup that I learned about 
iBOB. I left iBOB long ago, probably 2 or 3 versions ago.

I bought a '93 Bridgestone XO-1 from BOB in 1994, I think this was part of 
the Bridgestone USA fire sale. Long ago, I set up a web page, complete with 
scanned film images, on that bike: http://web.stanford.edu/~dru/xo1.html 
I've since mostly disassembled it and put it away, and will eventually dig 
it out of storage, inventory it, and contemplate selling it. That web page 
is...well, it was me 25 years ago, I'll leave it at that.

In 1999 I was surfing the Ibis web page and found a "clear out the 
warehouse" sale that netted me a 1998 Mojo in Eggplant. That has a few 
Rivendell-bought things on it, primarily the fairly recently bought 
Velocity wheels. The Ibis is the reason the XO-1 went into storage.

I don't honestly remember the first thing I bought from Rivendell as 
opposed to BOB. Maybe it was a water bottle or cage or something. I do 
recall getting a lot more items, mostly small things, back then, as I 
really wanted them to succeed.

I did buy a "Rivendell Riders" Brooks B-17 Saddle and rode it for a while. 
That was an early offering, and not many were made. I think I still have 
it. I should sell it, maybe it's become collectable? Maybe I can trade it 
for a new car or house or something? I have regular, plain, black B-17 and 
Champion Flyer saddles now.

In 1996, I ordered a 56cm Rivendell Road Standard in "chameleon." Here's 
the very 1990's web page about it: http://web.stanford.edu/~dru/myriv.html 

That 1996 Waterford-built frame wasn't well suited to my weight at the time 
(I reached 275lbs in 1999), and the fancy pointed lugs cracked the 
downtube, so Rivendell replaced it in 2000 with a 1999 match-built custom 
that for some reason wasn't wanted by whoever first ordered it and it was 
the same size. That was originally in sage green, but I always wanted a red 
bike, so I paid to have it repainted by Joe Bell. 

I still ride that 1999/2000 Rivendell, but of course, many parts have 
changed over time, most bought through Rivendell. I'm still using the 
Suntour front derailleur bought from BOB; the Nitto Frog seatpost and the 
Dia Compe BRS 200 brake calipers, but most everything else has changed. 
Many parts migrated from the RB-1 and the 1996 Rivendell. I have some 
photos of it on the Rivendell Flickr group, but none more current than 
2012, so I need to take some more recent ones and post them. I still have 
an original Banana Bag on the back. Here's one from 
2011: 
[url=https://flic.kr/p/9cnEJW][img]https://live.staticflickr.com/5082/5379563274_fb804851c3_m.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/9cnEJW]All
 
Clean and Pretty![/url] by 
[url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/drew_saunders/]Drew Saunders[/url], on 
Flickr

In 2004 I injured my right knee and was informed by orthopedics and the PT 
that I had to lose weight, so I dropped from around 265 then to about 180 
in 2006. I celebrated the weight loss in 2006 by buying an orange 
Quickbeam, which is still my daily commuter (when I don't walk to work). It 
has a rack (Mark's Rack, I think) to hold the Wald basket and a BOB-era 
bought Carradice Lowsaddle Longflap bag. I think it's mostly original, 
except for tires and bar tape. I

Re: [RBW] Of Bikes and Bread

[Drew Saunders]

As we used to say in my old dorm (where fresh bread was baked 6 
nights/week) "Make Loaf, Not War"!

Sadly, my wife really dislikes sour flavors, especially sourdough, so I may 
not be able to try this. If I knew anyone with a starter, I might borrow 
theirs to see if the result is just a pinch sour. I'll still download and 
save your recipe, thanks!

Drew
'91 RB-1 (long ago sold)
'93 XO-1 (in storage, mostly disassembled)
'99 match-built Road Standard
'06 Quickbeam.

On Monday, January 20, 2020 at 3:48:29 PM UTC-8, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:
>
> And in case you wanted the recipe: 
>
>

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